Fire EARTH water AIR THE FOUR ELEMENTS OF FASHION INTERNATIONAL FASHION CONFERENCE
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EARTH
water
AIR
fire
THE FOUR ELEMENTS OF FASHION
INTERNATIONAL
FASHION CONFERENCE
PROGRAMME
Università Iuav di Venezia
Department of Architecture and Arts
16 - 17 March 2023
Venice, Italy
Organised by
In partnership with
Supported by
Scientific Coordinators and Convenors
Anneke Smelik
Radboud University of Nijmegen
Alessandra Vaccari
Università Iuav di Venezia
Scientific Committee
Maude Bass-Krueger Sun, air, water and soil are in most of the clothes we
Ghent University
wear. In the era of ecological crisis, this international con-
Maria Claudia Bonadio
Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora
ference aims to investigate the new paradigms of fashion
cultures through the four archetypal elements of matter.
Danielle Bruggeman
ArtEZ University of the Arts By doing so, it shifts the attention towards the material
Patrizia Calefato and sensory aspects of fashion, features that have been
Università degli studi di Bari Aldo Moro, largely neglected by fashion studies over the past for-
Serkan Delice ty years. This approach fits in the current debate on the
London College of Fashion UAL ‘material turn’ inspired by de-centering the human and
Jeannine Diego re-centering matter and the materiality of things, objects,
Virginia Commonwealth University technologies, and bodies.
Kyoko Koma
Meiji University The conference proposes to analyse this ontological shift
Llewellyn Negrin through the redefinition of the substance of fashion and
University of Tasmania
its history. In Western and non-Western cultures matter is
Kirsi Niinimäki
Aalto University
conceived as a coexistence of multiple elements following
a tradition that includes, among others, the cosmological
Agnès Rocamora
London College of Fashion UAL treatise of Aristotle, the Hinduist and Buddhist medita-
tions on the ‘primary material elements’ (mahabhutas),
Organising and Technical Committee and Jābir ibn Hayyān’s alchemy.
Greta Bosello
Università Iuav di Venezia The conference takes place in Venice, a city that emerged
Sandra Coppola from water through a process of significant anthropisa-
Università Iuav di Venezia, Università degli Studi della tion, and in which life’s rhythms and movements histori-
Campania Luigi Vanvitelli
cally coexist and are dependent on a critically changing
Paolo Franzo environment.
Università Iuav di Venezia, Università degli Studi di Firenze
Clizia Moradei
Università Iuav di Venezia
Book of Abstracts Editor
Mariáh Majolo
In Collaboration with
Iuav School of Doctoral Studies - Bembo Officina Editoriale
Iuav Master in Fashion and Visual Arts
Fashion Futuring Research Group
Research cluster Ecological Art Practices at NICHE (Università
Ca’ Foscari Venezia)
DAY 1 16 MARCH 2023 The conference follows Central European Time (CET)
9.30 AM - 10.15 AM REGISTRATION AND WELCOME COFFEE 1.30 PM - 2.30 PM LUNCH BREAK
10.15 AM - 11.30 AM OPENING CEREMONY AND PLENARY SESSION Room Tafuri 2.30 PM - 4.30 PM PARALLEL SESSIONS
Francesco Musco, Director of Research, Università Iuav di Venezia PROCESSES moderated by Maude Bass-Krueger Room A
Welcome address to the ‘Earth, Water, Air, Fire. The Four Elements of Fashion’ Conference
Anneke Smelik, Radboud Universiteit Nijmegen Eugenia Morpurgo - Università Iuav di Venezia - Syntropia. The process of Designing Footwear while Designing a
Keynote address: The Vital Elements of a Basic T-shirt Polycultural Agro Ecosystem
chaired by Alessandra Vaccari Kayla Owen - Liverpool John Moores University - The Wearer as Designer
Todd Robinson - University of Technology, Sydney - From Driz-a-bone to Moving in air: Exploring Our Relationship
11.30 AM - 1.30 PM PARALLEL SESSIONS
to Weather through the MAAS Weather Collection
Marie Schiele - Sorbonne University - From Wet Drapery to Liquid Condition: Dipetsa’s Clothing Design
INDUSTRY moderated by Todd Robinson Room Tafuri Beata Hamalwa - Cape Peninsula University of Technology - Unlocking Sustainable Fashion Design Advantages in
Namibia Using Uncommon Indigenous Kalahari Wild Silk through Co–design Intervention
Isabella Enrica Alevato Aires, Stefan Lie, Timo Rissanen, Alexandra Crosby - University of Technology Sydney -
Measurable Industry: Aligning the Production of Textiles with Earth’s Dynamic Needs
IM/MATERIAL moderated by Anneke Smelik Room Tafuri
David Inglis - University of Helsinki, Anna-Mari Almila - Università La Sapienza di Roma - Divining the Multiple On-
tologies of Water in the Global Fashion Industries Judith Brachem - University of Hamburg - Burning Shoes and Liquid Dresses. The Materiality of Virtual Dress and
Hybrid Bodies
Susan B. Kaiser - University of California, Davis - California Cotton: On the Disconnect Between Industrial Agricultu-
re and Fashion Charlotte Brachtendorf - Bauhaus University in Weimar - Materializing Digital Fashion
Emanuele Rinaldo Meschini - Università Iuav di Venezia - Greenwashing in the Sport Industry. The Case of the Antonella Giannone - Weißensee Kunsthochschule Berlin - Fashion as a Breathing, Flowing and Vibrant Matter
Recycled Football Jersey
Chiara Scarpitti - Università della Campania “Luigi Vanvitelli” - NGC Unknown Matters. An Experience of Dialogue
Elisa Palomino - Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center - The Manufacturing of New Environmental-Friendly Materials in
Between Earthly and Celestial Bodies
Italy during the War: The Use of Fish Leather by Salvatore Ferragamo
Ailsa Weaver - University of Technology Sydney - Air and Angels: the Case for Music Video as a Non-material Fashion
Object
ECOCENTRISM moderated by Victoria Geaney Room T2 - online
Anna Kamneva-Wortmann - University of Paderborn - Sartorial Swarming. A Biological Metaphor in Fashion Theory DESIGN moderated by Kirsi Niinimäki Room T2 - online
Jordon Masters - West Virginia University - Exploring Post-Consumption in Ecocentric Fashion Design Delfina Fantini van Ditmar - Royal College of Art - A Not Too Comfortable Future
Ania Zoltkowski - University of Technology Sydney - The Four Elements as Allies in Anchoring in Pluriversal Fashion
Wajiha Pervez - University of Technology Sydney - Athleisure Couture
Futures
Eleonora Chiais - Università di Torino - The Two Faces of Sustainability: Compostable Fashion Versus Upcycling Nicholas Rapagnani - Free University of Bolzano - The Growing Sneakers / Merging Footwear Design with the Realm
of Fungi
Franklin Kimberley - University of Auckland - Fashion-is-Umwelt, Searching for Holistic Earth Human Relationships
in Fashion Luis Quijano - Queensland University of Technology - Bacterial Cellulose is ‘Alive’: Practitioners’ Experiences Develo-
ping Bacterial Cellulose as a Versatile Emerging Biomaterial
CIRCULARITY moderated by Laini Burton Room A
Eleonora Campana, Giovanni Maria Conti - Politecnico di Milano - This Is Not Waste: A Design Toolkit to Engage
Brands and Designers in the Upcycling of Pre-consumer Textile Waste
Gina Giorgio, Alyse Harris, Alessandra Von Burg, Nate French, Farah Alshakita, Una Wilson - Wake Forest Univer-
sity - “Handle with Care” High School Enviroutique (EnvTQ)
Giulia Rossi - John Cabot University - The Earth as Art: A New Fashion Narrative for the Made in Italy Brand
Virginia Spadaccini - Università di Chieti-Pescara - Green Museums and Exhibitions to Redefine the Matter of
Fashion
Caroline Raybould - Birmingham City University - Two Years of Development and Workshops in the Growth Garden,
School of Fashion and Textiles, Birmingham City University (BCU)DAY 2 17 MARCH 2023 The conference follows Central European Time (CET)
9.00 AM - 9.30 AM REGISTRATION AND WELCOME COFFEE 12.30 PM - 1.30 PM LUNCH BREAK
9.30 AM - 10.30 AM PLENARY SESSION Room Tafuri 1.30 PM - 3.30 PM PARALLEL SESSIONS
Alessandra Vaccari, Università Iuav di Venezia
Keynote address: Elemental Mimicry
HISTORY moderated by Kristina Pranjić Room Tafuri
chaired by Anneke Smelik
Sandra Biondo - Université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne - Fashion and Patronage: Materializing the Policies of Heri-
10.30 AM - 12.30 PM PARALLEL SESSIONS
tage Conservation through Water. The Case of ‘Fendi for Fountains’ Initiative
Pauline Devriese - Ghent University - The Scent of Dress: Combating Foul Air with Fashion in Sixteenth to Eighte-
enth Century France and England
MATERIALS moderated by Colbey Emmerson Reid Room E
Andrea Kollnitz - Stockholm University - Becomings. Surrealist Fashion Practices and/in Nature in the Case of Leo-
Clizia Moradei - Università Iuav di Venezia - The Invisible Fungi: Fashion’s Mutualistic Invaders nor Fini
Andreea Roxana Stoian - National University of Arts Romania - Mushroom Mycelia. A Potential Textile of the Future Elizabeth Kutesko - Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London - Heat, Humidity, Rain & Mud: The Mate-
Ori Topaz - Shenkar Engineering.Desing.Art - Printing on Fish Skins. Design Strategies for New Material Implemen- rialities of Working and Wearing on the Devil’s Railroad
tation Alison Matthews David - School of Fashion, Toronto Metropolitan University - Trace Elements: Mining the Fashion
Kristina Pranjic, Magdalena Germek - University of Nova Gorica - The Imaginary of Coal: “Wear It, Don’t Burn It!” Archive
Silvia Vacirca - Università La Sapienza di Roma - Materializing Iridescence: Elissa Brunato’s ‘Bio Iridiscent Sequin’
MEDIA moderated by Ailsa Weaver Room T2
Dorothea Burato - Università degli Studi di Parma - Sustainable Fashion and Audiovisual Practices: How Fashion
SOIL moderated by Anna Keszeg Room T2 Film Can Raise Environmental Awareness
Pamela Moira Flanagan -The Glasgow School of Art - Performative Provocateur: Björk’s Eco-political Fantastical
Paolo Franzo - Università degli Studi di Firenze - What if Fashion Comes Back Down to Earth? Worlds as Speculative Spaces of Fashion
Louise Permiin Tønder Jensen - Designschool Kolding - Trials and Tribulations When Designing for Re-centering Anna Keszeg - Moholy-Nagy University of Arts and Design, Budapest - Coming-of-Age through Clothes. The Four
Matters Elements in the Sartorial Universes of Euphoria and Sex Education TV Series
Catharina Rüß - Technische Universität Dortmund - Luxury in Ice and Mud. Balenciaga’s Anti-fashion in the Crossfire
of the Elements
ECOSYSTEM moderated by David Inglis Room E
Dagmar Venohr - FHNW Basel Academy of Art and Design - Situated: Fashions. Reframing Dress through Soil Based
Actions and Knowledges M. Sol Aletta, Isaac Daniel Gorres - Radboud University of Nijmegen - Clothing, Access, and Destruction: The Good,
the Bad, and the Ugly Aspects of Technical Garments
Laini Burton - Queensland College of Art - Griffith University - Fashioned Filters: The Mask as an Environmental
ACTIVISM moderated by Danielle Bruggeman Room F - online Mediator
Tiziana Ferrero-Regis - Queensland University of Tecnology - The Fifth Element: Regenerating Fashion through Colbey Emmerson Reid - Columbia College Chicago - Fashion’s (Night) Soil: On Blue Nankeen
Indigenous Knowledge Dennis Weiss - York College of Pennsylvania - The Human Style in Fashion’s Posthuman Turn
Roberto Filippello - University of British Columbia - Fashion Justice in Occupied Palestine
Marius Janusauskas - Ghent University - Gender Reflection in Water: Queer Optics and The Feminization of
Second-hand Clothing 3.30 PM - 4.30 PM ROUNDTABLE AND CLOSING REMARKS Room Tafuri
Erminia D’Itria, Federica Vacca - Politecnico di Milano - Shifting to Care: Durability Processes and Practices of Use
in the Anthropocene Elemental Fashion: New Paradigms for Fashion Cultures and Practices
Alison Matthews David - Toronto Mertropolitan University
TIME moderated by Andrea Kollnitz Room Tafuri Alessandra Von Burg - Wake Forest University
Antonella Giannone - Weißensee Kunsthochschule Berlin
Rachael Cassar, University of Technology Sydney - Materiality, Make and Memory: A Critical Fashion Approach to
Upcycling Ori Topaz - Shenkar Engineering.Design.Art
Sandra Coppola - Università Iuav di Venezia, Università degli Studi della Campania Luigi Vanvitelli - An Archeolo- Elizabeth Kutesko - Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London
gical Approach to Fashion Waste chaired by Susan B. Kaiser - University of California, Davis
Daniela Guerreiro - ISCSP-University of Lisbon - This Coat Don´t Go Anywhere: Wardrobe Interviews as a Way to Get
Involved with Our Clothes
Lam Hong Lan - RMIT University of Vietnam - The Cultural Shift in Pre-owned Fashion as Sustainable Consumerism
in Vietnam
Ellen Sampson - Northumbria University - Liquid bodies: Seepages, Stains, and InterminglingsONLINE SESSIONS
Università Iuav di Venezia is one of the leading universities in Europe in the fields of architecture,
design, fashion, visual arts, urban and regional planning, and theatre. Established in 1926 as one of
the first Architecture Schools in Italy, Iuav combines a renowned tradition with a strong commit-
ment to innovation.
Cultural, environmental, and social sustainability is at the core of its actions in teaching and
research. With its vibrant university experience, Iuav encourages a responsible lifestyle to ensure a
fruitful relationship with the peculiar urban context of the lagoon city. The university is strategically
located in the heart of Venice’s historical centre, which provides students, visiting researchers and
staff with the opportunity to explore its unique heritage and diverse cultural landscape.
16.03.2023 - 17.03.2023
Streaming Room Tafuri
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16.03.2023 - 11:30 AM 16.03.2023 - 2:30 PM 17.03.2023 - 10:30 AM
ECOCENTRISM DESIGN ACTIVISM
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Conference venue Palazzo Badoer
San Polo 2468
Download MS Teams to joinTabinotabi, 2021. ph: Camilla Glorioso, Filippo Soffiati Technical sponsors
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