Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines

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Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
Inflight
                                  Magazine for
                                  Pacific Coastal
                                  Airlines

Find your
fun!
Penticton has something
for everyone

SUMMER SIZZLE
Adventure galore
in Rossland

GO NORTH!
Five must-see attractions
in Northern BC

May/June | Volume 15 | Number 3
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
Your
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              ED HANDJA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              &   SHELLEY MCKAY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Personal Real Estate Corporation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    BC Oceanfront Real Estate Team
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Personal Real Estate Corporation

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Specializing in Unique Coastal Real Estate in British Columbia
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Ed 250.287.0011 • Shelley 250.830.4435
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Office 250.286.3293 Toll Free 1.888.286.1932
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    edhandja@bcoceanfront.com
Great Choices for Recreational Use & Year-round Living • www.bcoceanfront.com • Great Choices for Recreational Use & Year-round Living • www.bcoceanfront.com

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                shelleymckay@bcoceanfront.com

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Great Choices for Recreational Use & Year-round Living • www.bcoceanfront.com • Great Choices for Recreational Use & Year-round Living • www.bcoceanfront.com
                                                                                                                                                                Loughborough Inlet Acreages: Unique opportunity to acquire one, two or three large coastal acreages in the south central coast region of BC, offering a true
                                                                                                                                                                west coast wilderness plus an investment in timber. Adjoining, combined 398 acres, with over 10,000ft of oceanfront. Each acreage has a substantial creek
                                                                                                                                                                flowing through it.                                                                                                              $$990,000 - $1,280,000

                                                                                                                                                                Nootka Sound Oceanfront: Two amazing 9.83 acre            Quatsino Sound Oceanfront Acreage: 106 acres in           Dent Island Acreage: 80.7 acres on Dent Island,
                                                                                                                                                                properties, on the SE tip of Nootka Island. Pebble        two separate titles. 1300+ft of low-bank easy access      east end of Cordero Channel. Encompasses the entire
                                                                                                                                                                beach, magnificent ocean views. Abundant wildlife,        south-facing oceanfront, nicely protected, with a small   southern and western shorelines plus well-protected
                                                                                                                                                                including whales rubbing on the pebble beach out front,   creek running through the property. There is forest       Mermaid Bay on the SE end of the island. Property is
                                                                                                                                                                sealions, seals, eagles and various seabirds. Renowned    service road access and zoning permits subdivision.       fully forested in healthy second growth. Phenomenal
                                                                                                                                                                and popular region for both fishing and kayaking.         Well known NW Vancouver Island region that provides       active tidal water area in the Discovery Islands. Close
                                                                                                                                                                                     Lot 3: $295,000 Lot 4: $305,0000     excellent fishing and recreation.            $380,000     to BC mainland and Bute Inlet.             $1,200,000

                                                                                                                                                                Hot Springs Cove: West coast Vancouver Island.            Cortes Island Oceanfront Acreage: 10.55                   Cortes Island Oceanfront: Exceptional 7 acre property
                                                                                                                                                                2 oceanfront acreages, 2.28 – 2.67 acres, share in        undeveloped acres in Gorge Harbour with approx.           with approx. 1200ft of easy access shoreline that includes
                                                                                                                                                                90 acre common property. 19 nautical miles NW of          545ft shoreline. Fully forested and topographically       granite outcrops and two small bays. Sunny, south-west
                                                                                                                                                                Tofino. Fully forested lots, diverse shorelines. Hot      diverse acreage with access from Gorge Harbour            exposure, amazing views and excellent privacy yet is
                                                                                                                                                                Springs Oceanside is a well-established recreational      Rd. The property steps down moderately to steep in        just minutes from the ferry service in Whaletown Bay.
                                                                                                                                                                community next door to the natural hot springs of         many locations, with small benches and rock outcrops      Electrical service on the property, drilled well and licensed
                                                                                                                                                                Maquinna Provincial Park. Water access only.              throughout. Shared driveway leads to the oceanfront.      spring water.                                    $1,400,000
                                                                                                                                                                                                 $99,750 - $109,000                                                   $515,000

                                                                                                                                                                Quadra Island Oceanfront: Quadra Estates is a beautiful island oasis on 77.27 acres with secluded beachfront, pastoral meadows, forest, ravine and high bank
                                                                                                                                                                oceanfront. In 7 titles, with services. Modern 2461sqft home, yurt and garden areas. Create an island sanctuary in this peaceful, private location just minutes from the
                                                                                                                                                                amenities of Quadra Island.                                                                                                                                 $4,288,000

                                                                                                                                                                                           w w w. b c o c e a n f r o n t . c o m
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
Cover: Mountain biking in Penticton.

                                                                                                                                   CONTENTS

                                                           Features                                                                                                                                                                          Departments
                                                           10 SEEKING SOLACE 			                                                          20 GO NORTH!				4                                                                                        UP FRONT
                                                             Kayaking BC's coastal waters                                                         Five must-see attractions                                                                        President’s Message
                                                           13 FIND YOUR FUN                                                                                                                                                                  6     MEET A PCA EMPLOYEE
                                                                                                                                          23 INDIGENOUS ADVENTURES
                                                             Penticton has it all
                                                                                                                                                  Visit Campbell River                                                                       6     AROUND BC
                                                           18 SUMMER SIZZLES                                                                                                                                                                       News from Pacific Coastal
                                                             Adventures galore in Rossland                                                24 CRUSOE OF LONESOME LAKE		                                                                             Airlines' destinations
                                                                                                                                                  An area rich in history

                                                                Group Publisher Penny Sakamoto, psakamoto@blackpress.ca - 250.480.3204                                 Advertising • Patty Doering, pdoering@vicnews.com - 250.480.3244 • Ruby Della Siega, ruby@mondaymag.com - 250.480.3222
                                                                Managing Editor Susan Lundy, lundys@shaw.ca                                                            • Natasha Griffiths, natasha.griffiths@northislandgazette.com - 250.902.8040
                                                                Creative Director Lily Chan | Graphic Design Janice Marshall, Michelle Gjerde                          • Annemarie Rindt, arindt@blackpress.ca - 250.480.3244 • Mario Gedicke, mario.gedicke@blackpress.ca - 250.891.5627
                                                                                                                                                                       Published by Black Press | www.blackpress.ca • 818 Broughton Street , Victoria, BC V8W 1E4

                                                                SOAR magazine is published six times per year and is distributed on all Pacific Coastal Airlines flights. The points of view or opinions expressed herein are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher
                                                                or Pacific Coastal Airlines. The contents of SOAR magazine are protected by copyright, including the designed advertising. Reproduction is prohibited without written consent of the publisher.
                                       Black Press Media Brand Assets Guide
                                       INTERNAL DOCUMENT                      Version 1.0 - May 2018

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                                                                                                                                          May/June 2021 |                3     | pacificcoastal.com
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
LOOKING
                                                      AHEAD
PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

                      A
                                 s we start to see progress and                ing air service to the Trail Regional Airport.
                                 improvements with the COVID-19                Although we were unable to have in-person
                                 Immunization Plan, the travel industry,       celebrations—as we have done in previous
                                 unfortunately, continues to face many         years—we continue to acknowledge these
                      challenges and will continue to see many chal-           anniversaries virtually on our website and
                      lenges for quite some time.                              on social media.
                         Throughout the year, Provincial Health                    For many, our scheduled air services
                      Orders have enforced extended travel                     link communities together and our teams
                      restrictions that have forced us to adjust our           across the province are working hard to
                      schedule accordingly. Following all provin-              provide safe, reliable and essential travel for
                      cial guidelines, we remain committed to our              those who need it most. We continue to
                      communities, and our air service continues               provide service to 16 communities in British
                      to help the movement of essential service                Columbia and we are optimistic that we will
                      workers, passengers travelling for medical               start to see positive changes come the sum-
                      appointments, charter services and time-                 mer months. We cannot wait to welcome
                      sensitive cargo transportation.                          everyone back on board again, and in the
                         During these times, it has been great to              meantime—stay safe and stay healthy.
                      see the support system of our communities
                      and the aviation industry. We were recently
                      excited to celebrate 15 years of provid-

                                                                                                      Quentin Smith

                                                       May/June 2021 |     4   | pacificcoastal.com
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
Celebrating 15 years of
            PCA service to Trail
P
            acific Coastal Airlines proudly celebrated 15 years of           TRAIL COFFEE CO.
            service to the Trail Regional Airport on Tuesday, April 6.          A local cafe, serving breakfast, lunch and freshly roasted
                “We’ve enjoyed serving the residents of the                  coffee. Hand-roasted, hand-blended and hand-packaged,
            West Kootenay region over the past 15 years                      products created by the Trail Coffee Co. team lead to a per-
and look forward to many more to come,” says Pacific                         fect cup of joe.
Coastal’s Vice President of Commercial Services Johnathan
Richardson. “We’re proud to be part of the community.”                       COLUMBIA RIVER SKYWALK
    PCA currently operates non-stop flights between                             This bridge is part of the Trans Canada Trail Society’s Great
Vancouver South Terminal Airport and Trail Regional Air-                     Trail and is bike, stroller, scooter and wheelchair friendly.
port six days a week. To celebrate its 15-year anniversary                   Once across, continue along the banks of the Columbia River
in Trail, the airline shared a selection of local places for                 to the Victoria Street Bridge and complete this quick and
visitors to check out the next time they land in this West                   easy river walk loop.
Kootenay town.
                                                                             RED RESORT
COLUMBIA GARDENS VINEYARD AND                                                   Trail is just minutes from world-class skiing at Red
WINERY                                                                       Resort in Rossland BC. Outdoor lovers will also find a vast
   Columbia Gardens Vineyard and Winery Estate is                            network of cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and mountain
nestled in the heart of the Columbia Gardens Valley near                     biking trails in the area.
the Trail Regional Airport. Check out the Burl tasting room
                                                                             COMMITTED TO ENSURING A SAFE JOURNEY
that features all their wines and thoughtful gifts.
                                                                                 Pacific Coastal Airlines has adopted additional safety mea-
TRAIL BEER REFINERY                                                          sures to ensure the health and wellbeing of staff and custom-
   With a name that reflects Trail’s historic connection to                  ers. The measures include enhanced aircraft sanitation prac-
mining, refining and smelting, this brewery has a strong                     tices, physical distancing at airport facilities, reduced contact
community focus and a great selection of craft beer. You                     points, and the requirement for all customers to travel with a
can find Trail Beer Refinery downtown on Bay Avenue.                         face mask and answer health check questions before boarding.
                                                                             Learn more about the additional safety measures online.
                                                     May/June 2021 |     5   | pacificcoastal.com
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
MEET A                                  AROUND BC
PACIFIC COASTAL
EMPLOYEE:                                Malahat Skywalk set open
BAL
                                         this July
                                             MALAHAT: Construction is well             Nation to come. We look forward to
                                         underway on the Malahat Skywalk.              telling the stories of our people and
                                             Expected to be completed July,            welcoming the visitors to our com-
                                         this world-class tourism experience           munity through the Malahat Skywalk
                                         will feature an elevated wooden               experience.”
                                         pathway constructed through an

                                                                                       Organ Donor
                                         Arbutus forest leading to a gentle,
                                         accessible spiral ramp climbing to a
                                         40-metre-high sightseeing lookout,
                                         where visitors will enjoy magnificent
                                         views of the Finlayson Arm and
                                                                                       run opens
                                         distant coastal mountains.
                                             The project will also see the con-
                                                                                       for mountain
                                         struction of a welcome centre, retail
                                         stores and a coffee shop.                     bikers
                                             “People are really beginning to ex-       By Travis Paterson /
                                         press interest in the project now that        westcoasttraveller.com
Position:                                they see the columns being raised,”               SIDNEY: As a black diamond run,
Customer Service Supervisor              says Ken Bailey, general manager              the newly redesigned section of
Location:                                of the approximately $15-million              Organ Donor trail at Hartland-Mount
Vancouver Airport Operations             project. “We hope the community               Work mountain biking park is not for
Time with PASCO:                         will be proud of it when it’s com-            everyone.
Joined the company in 2001               pleted and will want to share it with             But the lineups of bikers at the
                                         the world."                                   top of Organ Donor show just how
Job description: Responsible for             Inspired by similar elevated forest       popular the trail is, and how badly
providing supervision, direction         walks in Europe, the elevated wood-           needed it is at Mount Work, located
and support to all customer service      en pathway is intended to bring a             on the Saanich Peninsula, just out-
agents at the Vancouver base. This       world-class tourism experience to             side Victoria. (And yes, the mountain
includes passenger check-in, training    Southern Vancouver Island.                    bike trails have extreme names,
and operations planning.                     A.Spire by Nature, a company led          ranging from off-colour humour,
                                         by two of the founding partners in            such as Birth Control, Lumpy Pants
Where were you born and where            the successful Sea to Sky Gondola             and Who’s Your Daddy, to the more
did you grow up?                         near Squamish, and the Malahat Na-            subtle, such as Small Craft Warning
I was born in Murrayville in Langley     tion have partnered in the Malahat            and Bubble Wrap.)
and raised in Vancouver. I now live      Skywalk project, which will combine               “Now that it’s open, everyone is
with my husband in Pitt Meadows.         nature-based tourism with a cultural          enjoying it and sharing that stoke
What do you like best about this         tourism experience.                           around the community,” says Alon
job?                                         About 25 workers from Kinsol, a           Soraya, vice president of the South
My coworkers are awesome. They are       local contracting company in Bam-             Island Mountain Biking Society.
truly like family.                       berton, are building the structure.               What’s significant about Organ
                                             Upon announcing the project,              Donor—which has long existed but
What is your favourite thing to do       George Harry Jr., a councillor with           has had a significant reroute with
in your city/town?                       the Malahat Nation, said the First            a new design—is that this style of
I love spending time with my friends     Nation is proud to partner on the             “flowy” trail with built-up jump-style
and family, checking out local winer-    Malahat Skywalk project.                      features has not been allowed in
ies and breweries and exploring my           “Not only is it a tourism experi-         Mount Work Regional Park until now.
own backyard.                            ence that speaks to sustainability                In the past, there were legal issues
Anything else you’d like to share?       and the connection to our land, but           that limited the building of features
I’m looking forward to many more         it will also provide opportunities for        such as jumps and drops, not just in
years with PASCO!                        many generations of the Malahat               Greater Victoria but across BC. How-
                                          May/June 2021 |   6   | pacificcoastal.com
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
Malahat Skywalk set to open this summer.

“Now that it’s open, everyone              however, it’s mostly unsanctioned,              There are also “rollable” options next to
                                                                                           the bigger jumps, gaps and drops, so
                                           and the CRD will often step in to close
is enjoying it and sharing                 trails.                                         moms and dads can go easy while the
that stoke around the com-                     Once South Island Mountain Bik-             kids go big.
                                           ing Society had permission this past                Learn more, including trail map and
munity."                                   summer, longtime volunteer and                  ratings, at simbs.com/trails
                                           local mountain biker Jesse Jubinville

                                                                                           Rare white ‘spirit
                                           couldn’t wait to start building. The
ever, in the past decade trail-building    work began last September with

                                                                                           moose’ spotted
elsewhere has undergone a boom             more than 1,000 volunteer hours in
and has put places such as Cum-            total and officially opened on January
berland on the map and Whistler as         17.
one of the province’s fastest-growing
mountain biking destinations.
                                               “Hartland for years hasn’t had a
                                           progressive-style trail and has been
                                                                                           in Cariboo
    Now, the stewards who oversee          left behind in comparison to other              By Greg Sabatino
trail building at Mount Work are           [parks], which have flowy, fun trails           westcoasttraveller.com
working to catch up. In the spring,        with drops and jumps. When I set                     WLLIAMS LAKE: A Williams Lake
the South Island Mountain Biking           out to build something, I wanted                resident was considering buying a lot-
Society signed a licence agreement         something for the community that                tery ticket after stumbling across a rare,
with the Capital Regional District, the    all levels of riders can have fun on,”          white moose while out for a scenic drive.
result of several years of negotiations    Jubinville says.                                     “People have always told me I’m
between CRD staff and a number of              So while the trail is fast, it is a bit     lucky, but this one kind of trumps them
the society’s board directors.             wider than the usual single track, and          all,” says Hattie Deyo, who managed to
    "It supports us to do work like this   it covers the craggy roots and rocks            capture a video and photographs from
and continue improving the park,”          that make Hartland “technical” and              the encounter on a back road in the
Soraya said.                               difficult, but fun. It also has opportu-        Cariboo outside Williams Lake.
    There’s a long history of trail        nities for riders to slow down where                 “It was with its mom, which was a
building, including recent work;           other black diamond trails don’t.               brown moose. I didn’t know what it was
                                              May/June 2021 |   7   | pacificcoastal.com
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
AROUND BC

    Kangaroo Creek Farm in Kelowna.
    KANGAROO CREEK FARM/FACEBOOK

at first. I thought it was a cow with
long legs.”                                Kelowna                                            As an outdoor venue big enough
                                                                                           to accommodate physical distanc-

                                           kangaroo farm
    Growing up in a rural home,                                                            ing, it offers a COVID-friendly way to
Deyo says, she’s heard of white                                                            enjoy being outside while still having
moose, also called spirit moose,                                                           social interactions safely, says owner
sightings before, but never imag-
ined she’d witness one first hand.
                                           jumps back into                                 Caroline MacPherson.
                                                                                              “You can get outside, enjoy the
    “It was pretty impactful,” she says.
“And one in a million.”                    action                                          sunshine and see some animals” she
                                                                                           says. “We just ask that people stay six
    After Deyo parked her vehicle,         By Twila Amator                                 feet apart from others and to stay in
the mother of the white moose              westcoasttraveller.com                          your bubble.”
calf carried on, but the calf stayed           KELOWNA: Kelowna’s Kangaroo                    This year, the community can
behind.                                    Creek Farm is back up and running.              expect see the addition of a dog
    “It didn’t go anywhere,” she says.     The popular family farm—which                   therapy park.
“It was really cool and stood there        counts kangaroos and capybaras                     “It’s not really a dog park in the
for about 10 minutes…then it just          among its animal residents—was set
                                                                                           way people might expect, where you
casually strolled away.”                   to welcome guests back as of April 29.
                                                                                           take your dogs to the park. This is a
    Cariboo Chilcotin Zone Conser-             Kangaroo Creek Farm features a wide
                                                                                           space that’s already populated with
vation Officer Service Sgt. Jeff Tyre      array of animals in natural surroundings.
                                                                                           dogs,” she says.
said in his roughly 14-year career         These include red kangaroos, common
                                                                                              MacPherson said the therapy dog
he’s never come across a white             wallaroos and Bennett wallabies, as well
                                                                                           park’s goal is to provide an additional
moose.                                     as dama wallabies, emu, peacocks, fancy
                                                                                           space for visitors with young children
    “It’s definitely unique,” he says.     chickens, goats, parrots, a baby albino
“You’ll only ever see one like that in     wallaby, baby kangaroos and potbellied          so they can also have the experi-
your lifetime.”                            pigs. There’s even a capybara, the world’s      ence of interacting and playing with
                                           largest rodent, which can weigh more            animals at Kangaroo Creek Farm.
                                           than 150 pounds!                                   Plan your visit at kangaroocreek-
                                                                                           farm.com.
                                              May/June 2021 |   8   | pacificcoastal.com
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
Arts | Culture | Heritage
                                                                                   U’mista Cultural Centre
                                                                                   Alert Bay Visitor Centre
                                                                                   and Art Gallery
                                                                                   Alert Bay Museum
                                                                                   Traditional Dance performances
                                                                                   in the Big House
                                                                                   World’s Tallest Totem Pole
                                                                                   ‘Namgis Burial Ground
                                                                                   with stand of totems
                                                                                   The Art Loft

                                                                                   Activities
                                                                                   Whale watching
                                                                                   Fishing, Nature Trails
                                                                                   Traditional Canoes
                                                                                   Tennis Courts, Skate Park
                                                                                   Kayaking
                                                                                   Cultural Playground

                                                                                   Health
                                                                                   Hospital and Health Centre
                                                                                   Personal Care Services
                                                                                   Dentist office

                                                                                   Business
                                                                                   Accommodations -
                                                                                   Hotels, B&Bs Cabins
                                                                                   Campground
                                                                                   Gas Station
                                                                                   Grocery store | Pharmacy
                                                                                   Restaurants | Pubs
                                                                                   Liquor Store | Post Office
                                                                                   Churches | Banking | Hair Salon

                                                                                   For general inquiries
                                                                                   and cultural planning:
                                                                                   Alert Bay Visitor Centre
                                                                                   (250) 974-5024
                                                                                   Fax: (250) 974-5026
                                                                                   E-mail: info@alertbay.ca
                                                                                   www.alertbay.ca
U’mista Cultural Centre For events and cultural activities check here
https://www.facebook.com/Umista.Cultural.Society/
(250) 974-5403 or 1-800-690-8222 www.umista.ca
                                      May/June 2021 |   9   | pacificcoastal.com
Find your fun! - SUMMER SIZZLE Adventure galore in Rossland - Pacific Coastal Airlines
VANCOUVER ISLAND NORTH

   Seeking
                                                 Solace
Kayaking in BC’s coastal waters
By Linda Doctoroff
Photos by Tom Perry / tomperryphotographycom

S
          woosh…dip, swoosh…dip,          An eerie feeling echoes through me:             Compton Island, on Mamalilikulla-
          swoosh…dip and smack!           100 years later, we are living with the         Qwe’Qwa’Sot’Em Band First Nation
          Less than 50 metres from        COVID-19 pandemic.                              territory. They have given permis-
          our kayaks, the humpback’s          As we leave this historic village, we       sion to the company to use their
fluke whacks the water as it dives deep   spot a pod of resident orcas about              land. We step off the boat onto the
searching for krill.                      200 metres from us. JD, the owner of            midden beach. I imagine how, for
    Last summer, I left the isolating     the company, cuts the motor.                    thousands of years, Indigenous peo-
effects of these strange pandemic             “There’s A23 and A25,” he says.             ple have lived here, fishing, farming
times to embrace another form of          “They’ve been active in this area lately,       clams and hunting. The shells are
isolation: to seek solace in nature       hungry for salmon.”                             the remains of their cultural heri-
and to lose myself in a remote ma-            He drops a hydrophone in the                tage and their present-day life.
rine environment. I signed up with        ocean; we listen to the orcas sing un-              The first morning, after a hearty
Orca Dreams to kayak in a marine          derwater. They are skilled communica-           breakfast of buckwheat pancakes,
wilderness area near the Brough-          tors, making sounds for orientation,            fresh fruit and bacon, we set out
ton Archipelago, nestled between          navigation and feeding.                         in our kayaks to Blackfish Sound, a
Vancouver Island and the BC main-             As the boat approaches our base             wide channel known for feeding
land. I decided to travel solo on         camp, I am struck by the haunting               humpback whales. Humpbacks
this trip. I often prefer it that way.    beauty of the wilderness. A thick for-          migrate, annually, moving from
I’m more open to meeting others           est of western red cedar, Sitka spruce          their summer feeding grounds in
and experiencing nature.                  and hemlock cover the island. The               the high latitudes to warmer winter
    Base camp is a half-hour boat         treetops sway gently in the wind as             breeding waters closer to the equa-
ride from Telegraph Cove. While           if they are welcoming us with a slow            tor.
waiting for the water taxi, I read        dance. I am humbled by the natural                  Perched high on a bare branch
about the 1918 Spanish flu pan-           beauty and the history of the area.             in the thickly treed shoreline, a bald
demic that hit this tiny outpost.             The campsite is located on small            eagle surveys the scene. It’s watch-

                                            May/June 2021 |   10   | pacificcoastal.com
The treetops sway gently in the
                                                                                           wind as if they are welcoming
                                                                                           us with a slow dance. I am
                                                                                           humbled by the natural beauty
                                                                                           and the history of the area.
                                                                                           back to our campsite. As we approach
                                                                                           Blackfish Sound, there’s action ahead.
                                                                                               Tom excitedly says, “I’ve been
                                                                                           here seven weeks and haven’t seen
                                                                                           anything like this!” He quickly grabs
                                                                                           his camera and starts taking photos.
                                                                                           “I won’t have another chance like this,”
                                                                                           he exclaims.
                                                                                               Over the UHF radio, we hear the
ing a seal feast on a salmon, patiently    (or starfish) spread out on a barnacled         crackling voice of a captain in another
waiting to swoop down and scavenge         rock on the shoreline. It’s good to see         boat shout, “This is craziness!”
any leftovers. I continue paddling and     they are returning after several years’             We see several humpbacks blowing
soon a sea lion joins me, swimming         absence, owing to the sea star wasting          and gliding along the ocean, while
a few metres away. I keep pace with        disease.                                        a pod of surfing orcas and dolphins
it until it dips down into the ocean.          “Forty species of sea stars have            cavort between them in the shimmer-
I paddle to the middle of the sound        been affected by this disease,” JD says,        ing water. This time the humpbacks
and pause to watch two humpbacks.          as we glide by. We stop at a small              are making different sounds from
They are circling around me, dipping,      island, and, from our kayaks, we pick           what we’ve heard before. Their sounds
blowing and slapping their flukes          sea asparagus that later appears in our         are coming from deep within them,
before diving down. Am I intruding on      salad at dinner that night.                     almost moaning, making an eerie-
their space?                                   One late, starless evening, we              sounding howl. As we leave the scene
    When I return to the campsite,         stand on the midden beach and                   and return to camp, a flock of red-
dinner is almost ready. Amy, our cook,     throw stones in the water. We watch             necked phalaropes skim just above
sure knows her way around a kitchen.       the bioluminescence—light gener-                the water’s surface.
She has prepared pickled bull kelp,        ated chemically by organisms—as                     I went on this kayaking trip to lose
which she harvested that morning           we swish sticks back and forth in the           myself in nature during these strange
in the inlet. We nibble on the bright      ocean. It’s as if fireflies are swimming        pandemic times; I wanted to be in the
mustard-coloured delicacy while she        underwater.                                     richness of a remote marine environ-
puts the finishing touches on din-             Another evening after dinner, we            ment. But I came away with much
ner. She is preparing pierogies from       hike the kilometre-long trail to Sunset         more: I gained a new appreciation of
scratch, a recipe passed down from         Beach, stopping along the way to pick           the wildlife so abundant in this area.
her husband’s grandmother, who             ripe huckleberries. I arrive just in time           Indeed, it was a great getaway dur-
came from the Ukraine. Grandma             to catch the sun blanketing across a            ing a pandemic.
made sure Amy was married before           billowy, cloudy sky as it dips into the
turning over her recipe. I bite into       ocean, forming a pattern of shooting            Kayaking companies
the potato–cheddar cheese pierogi,         rays of gold. An orange glow covers             North Island Kayak: kayakbc.ca
topped with fried onions and a dollop      the sea. When we return to camp, JD             Orca Dreams: orcadreams.com
of sour cream; I’m in heaven.              has just caught a 24-pound Chinook              Spirit of the West: kayakingtours.com
    The next morning, we go out on         salmon.
Tensing, a 38-year-old former US Naval         “They like to bite in the early eve-
whaleboat, and watch a pod of Dall’s       ning,” he says, as he’s filleting the fish
porpoise skim along the shoreline,         on the beach, and then preparing it in
bobbing up and down in perfect             brine to be smoked the next day.
                                                                                            GETTING THERE
single formation, like large bubbles           On our last day, the sun shining, we
dribbling.                                 head north on Tenzing. JD’s pulling a            Flying: Fly to Port Hardy on
    They are the fastest cetacean on       double kayak at the stern of the boat.           Vancouver Island and take a taxi
                                                                                            to Telegraph Cove.
the planet, swimming up to 56 kilo-        Tom, our kayaking guide and me are
                                                                                            Driving: Take Hwy 19 north on
metres per hour,” JD offers.               dropped off in the heart of Brough-              Vancouver Island to Telegraph Cove.
    Another day, I see a purple sea star   ton Archipelago Marine Park to kayak

                                             May/June 2021 |   11   | pacificcoastal.com
PENTICTON

                                                                         Photos courtesy Visit Penticton.

Find your fun
Penticton has it all

                           P
                                       enticton, located in British   (situated on the shores of Okana-
                                       Columbia’s South Okana-        gan Lake) to charming motels,
                                       gan, is ripe for rediscovery   which line both Okanagan Lake,
                                       this summer. Boasting a        Skaha Lake and Main Street,
                           scenic locale, nestled between two         and quaint B&Bs. Or, visit nearby
                           lakes (Okanagan and Skaha), this           Naramata and stay at the historic
                           beautiful town welcomes visitors           Naramata Inn which reopened
                           (when the time is right) with an           under new ownership in 2020.
                           array of thrilling outdoor adventures,
                                                                      Eat & Drink
                           delicious culinary offerings and
                                                                         Whether you’re looking for
                           family-friendly activities.
                                                                      a sumptuous wine-paired meal
                               Even better, Penticton was
                                                                      or more casual fare, Penticton
                           added to Pacific Coastal Airline’s
                                                                      brings a lot to the table.
                           many BC destinations earlier
                                                                         Notable local spots include:
                           this year, and now travellers can
                                                                      Elma Restaurant, offering
                           fly direct from Vancouver to this
                                                                      traditional Turkish cuisine in an
                           Okanagan hot spot.
                                                                      upscale lakeside setting; the
                           Where to stay                              Hooded Merganser (located at
                              Penticton offers a variety of           the Penticton Lakeside Resort),
                           accommodation options, from                which grows some of its own
                           the Penticton Lakeside Resort              food in its garden and incorpo-
                 May/June 2021 |   13   | pacificcoastal.com
May/June 2021 |   14   | pacificcoastal.com
Boasting a scenic locale,                        Grape Escapes Wine Tours, with six          entry to the market is restricted to 50
                                             unique tour options all over the South          customers at a time, with pedestrian traf-
nestled between two lakes,                   Okanagan; Sagebrush Tours (wine and             fic flowing one-way.
this beautiful town welcomes                 nature excursions); and Grape Friends              Outdoor Adventuring
                                             Lounge and Tours.
visitors with an array of thrill-                Beer fans can enjoy seven local craft
                                                                                                 Epic “fuel-free” adventures await,
                                                                                             including hiking and biking on the Kettle
ing outdoor adventures,                      breweries (soon to be eight!), including        Valley Rail Trail, or exploring an additional
                                             Bad Tattoo, Barley Mill Brew Pub, Cannery
delicious culinary offerings and             Brewing, Highway 97, Neighbourhood
                                                                                             350-plus kilometres of trail networks (for
                                                                                             challenging yourself or simply soaking up
family-friendly activities.                  Brewing, Slackwater Brewing and Tin             stunning views), floating a river channel,
                                             Whistle Brewing. Check out the Penticton        or partaking in water sports on the two
rates those greens and produce into the      Ale Trail for full details.                     lakes with kayak and paddleboard rentals.
menu; The Restaurant at Poplar Grove             Plus, don’t miss out on great cider-            To help facilitate a day of floating the
Winery with its farm-fresh menu and          ies—featuring cider made with delicious         channel (during summer months), local
incredible views overlooking the city;       Okanagan fruit—such as La Petite Abeille        business Coyote Cruises offers inner-
and, for amazing coffee and breakfast,       and Creek & Gully.                              tube rentals and shuttle transport back
The Bench Market and Wayne & Freda               Bonus: In Penticton, it’s legal to have     to the starting point, so you can enjoy a
are both popular choices. In addition,       open alcohol at designated local beaches        leisurely ride down the seven-kilometer-
branching out from its farmers’-market       (from mid-May to mid-October), so grab          long channel that connects Okanagan
start, local favourite Joy Road Catering     a meal-to-go from your favourite res-           Lake to Skaha Lake. Pro tip: Remember to
has opened a pop- up bake shop down-         taurant, pick up a bottle of wine or craft      bring sunscreen.
town.                                        beer and raise a glass with your bubble at          Recreation businesses offer a plethora
   Wine aficionados can explore more         Skaha or Okanagan Lake.                         of outdoor activity options, including
than 80 wineries within a 20-minute drive        On Saturdays, the weekly downtown           Hoodoo Adventures, which recently
of Penticton. Many are accepting reserva-    Farmers Market is a must-do. Here you’ll        launched a new outpost, Hoodoo By The
tions for tastings this year, so make sure   find fresh local fruits and vegetables,         Lake, for watercraft rentals. It has also
you plan ahead. Local companies offering     baked goods and more. This year, in order       started offering ebike rentals, in addition
tours include:                               to adhere to social distancing protocols,       to paddle boarding, kayaking and moun-

                                               May/June 2021 |   15   | pacificcoastal.com
tain biking experiences. Freedom Bike            Enjoy a splashy afternoon at the
Shop also offers ebike rentals, or check     Penticton Wibit (operated by Splash
out Epic Cycling for a tailored experi-      BC)—a floating water park geared
ence involving custom-guided rides           to kids, located on the west end of
and hikes, along with ebiking rentals        Okanagan Beach, near downtown.
and tours.                                       And people of all ages can beat
   For rock climbing enthusiasts, Skaha      the heat with the best ice cream in
Rock Adventures offers local climbing        town: check out The Peach (on the
tours to all levels of skill. The climbing   beach, with 28 different milkshake
season typically runs from mid-March         flavours!), Lickity Splitz or Tickleber-
to mid-October.                              ry’s (with several locations, including
   If you’re looking for a more relaxed      two at Skaha Lake Park Beach, as well
experience, rent a paddleboard or            as a brand-new shop downtown).
book a lesson with Sun N’ Sup in                 For more trip planning inspiration,
Naramata.                                    check out visitpenticton.com and
                                             follow on social media: Instagram: @
Family Fun                                   visitpenticton
    LocoLanding Adventure Park (open         Facebook: facebook.com/visitpent-
May to September) offers the ultimate        icton
in family fun and entertainment, with        #VisitPenticton
activities for all ages (as young as         COVID Safety Information: https://
18 months). Make a day of it on the          www.visitpenticton.com/know-
go-karts, mini-golf, high-level ropes        before-you-go/
course, water-spraying bumper boats,
monkey motion, spider mountain, rock
climbing and more.
                                             May/June 2021 |   16   | pacificcoastal.com
Slow down and see more!
                   Enjoy Fuel Freedom as
                   you explore Penticton by
                    foot, pedal or paddle.

                       visitpenticton.com
                       @visitpenticton | #visitpenticton

May/June 2021 |   17   | pacificcoastal.com
ROSSLAND

                           Summer sizzles
                            in Rossland
           This mountain town offers great outdoor and
                      culinary adventures
 Story and photos by Lucas Aykroyd

 I
        t’s a gorgeous, warm evening as I                                                       outside Rossland, I enjoy the aura of
        hike toward the 1,591-metre sum-                                                        mental and physical freedom. The
        mit of Red Mountain in British Co-                                                      lobby design includes ski lift chairs,
        lumbia’s West Kootenays. I glance                                                       a chess set and towering windows.
 to my right. About 30 feet down a steep                                                        My fourth-floor room features a deep
 slope, I spot a young, 250-pound black                                                         soaker tub and a glass-encased walk-
 bear in the foliage, looking up at me.                                                         in shower, in addition to fabulous
    He is perfectly calm, and I’m                                                               views of Red Mountain.
 wearing jingling bear bells I ac-                                                                  I feast on lunch under a big red
 quired back home on Vancouver’s                                                                patio umbrella at The Velvet, the
 North Shore. Still, it’s an unforget-                                                          in-house restaurant. It’s hard to go
 table, heart-racing moment in the                                                              wrong with a crispy chicken sand-
 Monashee Mountains.                                                                            wich with Gruyere cheese, coleslaw
    Like a smart city slicker, I decide                                                         and avocado puree, plus a hearty
 not to go back the way I came.                                                                 Cobb salad.
 After admiring the wilderness                                                                      As I discover on my post-lunch
 sunset, I sing Van Halen and AC/                                                               foray into town, Rossland brims with
 DC songs while jogging down the             named Canada’s Female Athlete of the               laidback rustic charm, but the town
 wide, winding Sally’s Ride trail to         20th century. Kerrin-Lee Gartner, who              of 3,700 also has enough creature
 The Josie, my boutique hotel at the         won the 1992 Olympic gold medal in                 comforts to satisfy spoiled city dwell-
 foot of Red Mountain. (Bears avoid          downhill, is another local product.                ers.
 80s hard rock even more than                    Hockey fans harken back to former                  After grabbing a handcrafted
 bells.)                                     Canadian national team goalie Seth                 Americano from the popular Seven
    In retrospect, my comical flight         Martin (IIHF Hall of Fame, 1997) and               Summits coffee shop, I stroll down
 from Mr. Bear is only slightly less         Stanley Cup champion Dallas Drake                  Columbia Avenue, which is fes-
 smooth than the Pacific Coastal             (Detroit Red Wings, 2008). Also, the               tooned with hanging flower baskets.
 Airlines flight from Vancouver to           Rossland Ladies Hockey Team went                       At the Mountain Nugget Choco-
 Trail. That takes just an hour and 15       unbeaten from 1900 to 1917 (BC                     late Company, the decor catches
 minutes.                                    Hockey Hall of Fame, 2018).                        my eye. Vintage wooden skis adorn
    After landing the previous day,              The Josie was named Canada’s Best              the wall behind the counter. Local
 I made the 20-minute drive to               Ski Boutique Hotel in the 2019 World               artist Lars Baggenstos has prints like
 The Josie in a rented 2019 Toyota           Ski Awards, but a summertime visit                 “Young Black Bear” for sale ($30 to
 Corolla. I was curious about visiting       offers great opportunities to explore              $120) in frames made of Slocan Lake
 Rossland in the summer. After all,          the well-maintained area trails, which             driftwood. I shell out for some BC
 this 1897-founded gold-mining               welcome hikers, trail runners and                  blueberry anise, maple walnut and
 town is well known for its rich his-        mountain bikers. Rossland boasts                   strawberry balsamic chocolates.
 tory of winter sports athletes.             more than 50 trails and 160 kilometres                 Just off Columbia Avenue, the
    Nancy Greene, the 1968 Olym-             of single track.                                   well-stocked Gold Rush Bookstore in-
 pic gold medalist in giant slalom,              Coming into The Josie, which                   dulges my cultural appetites. Owner
 hails from Rossland, and was                opened in 2018 with 106 rooms just                 Michelle Fairbanks recommends titles

                                                  May/June 2021 |   18   | pacificcoastal.com
The Josie features a spacious, skiing-themed lobby.
                                                                                  At left, a crispy chicken sandwich at The Josie.

                                          To round out my local sports experi-           and forward passing. In a sense, the
The Josie was named Canada’s          ence, I drive to Crescent Valley the next          remaining riverside log pilings and
Best Ski Boutique Hotel in the        day for a two-hour kayak tour on the Slo-          graffiti-covered sawmill ruins here
                                      can River with Endless Adventure guide             constitute the ancient Mesopotamia
2019 World Ski Awards, but a          Jordan Overholt. During the five-kilome-           of modern-day hockey.
summertime visit offers great         tre odyssey, Overholt, who doubles as a               I’m still musing about it as I head
opportunities to explore the          logging-truck mechanic, shows me how
                                      to power through challenging sections
                                                                                         to the Rossland Beer Company. The
                                                                                         brick-walled establishment, formerly
well-maintained area trails,          of the river, which have names like Calm           a hardware store, offers refreshing,
which welcome hikers, trail           Before the Storm and Elevator Rapids.              rap-themed beers with names like
                                          There are plenty of serene moments             Slim Shady Summer Wheat, plus
runners and mountain bikers.          on the water, surprisingly warm at 21              Straight Outta Rossland T-shirts. Co-
                                      C. “It’s a good, accessible experience             founder Petri Raito is on a first-name
about Kootenay history like Ron       for kayaking or rafting,” Overholt says.           basis with his many local custom-
Walker’s Old Glory. This primes me    “Sometimes, we spot ospreys or grizzlies           ers. The vibe is so laid-back that
to check out the recently renovated   drinking.”                                         I’m almost surprised when my Red
Rossland Museum & Discovery               At Crescent Valley Beach Park, I’m             Mountain bear doesn't wander in.
Centre.                               thrilled to walk around the former site of            I don’t spot the bear when I'm
    From a vintage Esso gas station   Patrick Lumber. Frank and Lester Patrick           eating beef brisket and ahi tacos at
to an enormous rope drive com-        used proceeds from this 1907-founded               the Flying Steamshovel either. Ah
pressor used to power drills in the   sawmill company to found the Pacific               well, I’m sure he didn’t have as much
Rossland mines, the museum brims      Coast Hockey Association, which fea-               summer fun in Rossland as I did. (No
with intriguing exhibits. A special   tured pro teams in Vancouver, Victoria,            offence to the bear community.)
Nancy Greene display includes her     Seattle and Portland through 1924. The                To plan your trip to Rossland,
skis, medals and various memorabil-   PCHA transformed hockey forever with               see tourismrossland.com or
ia from the ‘68 Grenoble Olympics.    innovations like blue lines, penalty shots         hellobc.com.
                                        May/June 2021 |   19   | pacificcoastal.com
NORTHERN BC

        Go
      No r t h !

  Barkerville (photo by Amy Attas).

                          Five must-see attractions in
                      Northern BC—when the time is right
By Amy Attas
Courtesy Westcoast Traveller

W
                  hen the time is right again    1. Tumbler Ridge Global                         ontologist confirmed their find.
                  to travel, northern BC has a   Geopark                                             It was one of the most significant
                  host of places to visit. And   In the summer of 2000, two Tum-                 dinosaur discoveries in BC in 100
                  Pacific Coastal Airlines has   bler Ridge kids were floating down              years.
the means to get you there—check the             Flatbed Creek (located just north of                Visit the Tumbler Ridge museum
airline’s website for a list of northern-BC      Prince George) when they fell off their         to learn all about dinosaurs and the
destinations. In the meantime, dream of          inner tubes and stumbled on a trail             fascinating geology of the region,
experiencing these five attractions.             of dinosaur footprints. None of the             then head out on the trails for a hike
                                                 adults in town believed them, but the           or ski to see some jaw-dropping land-
                                                 boys persisted until a visiting palae-          scapes. You may even find the next
                                                                                                 fascinating fossil!
                                                   May/June 2021 |   20   | pacificcoastal.com
You’ll see trees as wide as trucks, whales, sea
lions and rare birds, and connect with an ancient
culture that continues to thrive.
2. Barkerville
If you like historic sites where costumed interpreters help you
immerse yourself in a different time, you’ll love Barkerville.
    The gold rush town, located east of Wells, BC, is huge
(including over 125 heritage buildings), with a wide range of
hands-on activities, restaurants, entertainment and displays
to engage visitors of all ages. Try your luck at gold panning,
practice calligraphy at the Chinese school house, or watch
infamous Judge Begbie lay down a harsh verdict in court.
    Time your visit with the first weekend in August to catch
the ArtsWells festival, or combine it with a canoe trip in Bow-
ron Lake Provincial Park.
3. Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park
For an other-worldly moonscape, visit Anhluut’ukwsim Laxmihl
Angwinga’asanskwhl Nisga’a (Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park),
one of the youngest and most accessible volcanic features in
the province. See vast, sparse fields of volcanic rock, and some-
thing called a tree cast— caused when tree trunks were vapor-
ized in the lava flow, leaving bark-engraved holes in the basalt.          The lower pool of the Liard River Hot
   Make sure to stay on marked paths, since a single footprint can         Springs in Northern British Columbia
set back hundreds of years of delicate lichen growth.                      (photo by Amy Attas).
   Along with geology, on the Nisga’a Nation Auto Tour you’ll

         BC LIBERAL MLA

         Lorne Doerkson
         CARIBOO-CHILCOTIN
         CRITIC FOR RURAL DEVELOPMENT

                                    Your MLA for                           Tom Shypitka
                                    Cariboo-Chilcotin                      Your MLA for Kootenay East
     lorne.doerkson.MLA@leg.bc.ca
                     102 – 383 Oliver Street,                              250-417-6022
                    Williams Lake, BC V2G 1M4                              tom.shypitka.MLA@leg.bc.ca
              Ph: 250-305-3800 Fax: 250-305-3808                           302-535 Victoria Ave., N. Cranbrook, BC
  7-530 Horse Lake Rd, PO Box 95, 100 Mile House, BC V0K 2EO
                         250-395-3916                                      TomShypitka.ca
                                                 May/June 2021 |   21   | pacificcoastal.com
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park
Nisga’a Lisims Government / Gary Fiegehen)

                                                                                                                               Tumbler
                                                                                                                                  Ridge
                                                                                                                           GeoPark is a
                                                                                                                            four-season
                                                                                                                            playground
                                                                                                                           with rugged
                                                                                                                         scenery and a
                                                                                                                          rich dinosaur
                                                                                                                                history.

                CRANBROOK, B.C.
       Spacious rooms & suites                                           learn about Nisga’a’s culture and visit a Nisga’a village
  1908 Cranbrook Street N (Hwy3/95)                                      which was destroyed by the volcano.
                   1-888-489-4600
                                                                         4. Liard River Hot Springs
                                                                         Here’s why Liard is the best hot spring in BC: it’s natural,
                                                                         surrounded by forest, big and remote, so you’ll never be

                               Love
                      ITALIAN FOOD?
                                                                         competing for space.
                                                                            The hot springs are a welcome respite for roadtrippers
                                                                         making their way to the Yukon, and there’s even a camp-
                                                                         ground if you’d like to take an extra long soak.

               “Come Twirl with u                                        5. SGang Gwaay UNESCO World Heritage Site
              Italian family style dining                                On the southern tip of the Haida Gwaii archipelago, aged
              featuring our traditional                                  cedar mortuary poles rise from the grass, standing watch
                    Colander Special                                     over a sparkling ocean bay. The carving on these poles is
                                                                         world class, and so is the scenery—the Haida definitely
                  Pasta and More                                         know how to pick a village site.
            Shopping at Waneta Plaza?                                       Once travel restrictions to Haida Gwaii are lifted and
             Try the Colander Express                                    you’re able to visit, you’ll be shown around by a Haida
                    River Belle                                          Watchman, someone who lives on the site all summer
                  banquet facility                                       long to protect the traditional territory and share their
                                                                         culture.
                     The                                                    Sgang Gwaay is part of the Gwaii Haanas National Park
                                                                         Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, which has the nickname
                                                                         “Galapagos of the North,” meaning there’s amazing wildlife
                                                                         as well as historical sites. You’ll see trees as wide as trucks,
                                                                         whales, sea lions and rare birds, and connect with an
                Lunch: 11:30 am - 2pm Weekdays                           ancient culture that continues to thrive.
                   Dinner: 4:30 - 8:30pm Daily                              The stories here and on Page 23 and 24 first
                  For Reservations 250-364-1816                          appeared on westcoasttraveller.com. Plan your travel
                   1475 Cedar Avenue, Trail, BC                          adventures here and on Facebook and Instagram @
                                                                         thewestcoasttraveller.
                                                  May/June 2021 |   22   | pacificcoastal.com
CAMPBELL RIVER

     Indigenous
     adventures

  Homalco Wildlife & Cultural Tours.

New vessels and new tours in Campbell River
By Black Press Media
Staff /West Coast Traveller

I
     ndigenous tourism is about to get wild   Mall at 1344 Island Highway in Camp-          realm of exploration.”
     in Campbell River.                       bell River. Designed to immerse visitors           While COVID-19 international restric-
         Homalco Wildlife & Cultural          in First Nations culture at the outset,       tions will likely still be in effect this
     Tours, a 20-year-old Indigenous          the centre’s contemporary Indigenous          spring, Shirley Badger, tour coordinator
community-owned business, is opening          design will feature art from various local    for Homalco Wildlife & Cultural Tours, is
a new Homalco Adventure Centre in             First Nation artists, guidebooks and          confident that the tours will continue
Campbell River, launching two new,            more.                                         to fill up.
state-of-the-art adventure tour vessels,          A defining component of the HWCT               “We have seen tremendous interest
and introducing a new Whales, Wildlife        tours will be two new landing craft           in Indigenous tourism from our domes-
and Culture tour this spring.                 boats that offer Zodiac-style, fresh-air      tic market and our own provincial resi-
    “After a long year of restricted busi-    seats and comfort seating providing           dents who are passionate about wildlife,
ness, we are really looking forward to an     protection inside a cosy cabin.               culture and the natural beauty to be
exciting spring of substantial expansions         “Safety is our number one priority,       found in the Territory of the Homalco,”
for our organization,’ said Homalco Tour-     and we are employing the expertise            she said.
ism Development Officer JP Obbagy.            of the best mariners in the business to            “All of this great news spells prog-
    Despite pandemic-related supply           ensure we’ve identified and addressed         ress for the Homalco First Nation,” says
chain delays, he confirms the buildout        all vessel safety concerns,” Obbagy said.     Chief Darren Blaney. “While COVID-19 is
of the centre, manufacturing of the               The new Whales, Wildlife and              still a factor for the foreseeable future,
watercrafts and staffing of the tours are     Culture tour expands the expertise of         our Homalco First Nation is ready to
underway.                                     HWCT’s team with the addition of ma-          welcome visitors again, for now, and as
    “As we move forward, we are inte-         rine naturalists, skippers and Indigenous     long as we deem it safe to do so. With
grating the highest possible standard         guides. Marketing and social media co-        this expansion great things can happen:
of COVID-19 safety protocols into all         ordinator Chyanne Trenholm describes          knowledge of our culture and apprecia-
aspects of these operations,” Obbagy          the tour as something totally unique on       tion for our environment can be shared
said.                                         Vancouver Island.                             with a larger audience and more of
    The Homalco Adventure Centre will             “We now have the ability to bring         our people can be hired and their skills
be located in the Discovery Harbour           whales and other marine life into our         developed.

                                              May/June 2021 |   23   | pacificcoastal.com
BELLA COOLA

Given its history and its range of ecological values in the heart of southern Tweedsmuir Park, BC Parks Foundation’s goal is to
purchase and permanently protect this property, making it an integral part of this incredible large untouched wilderness area
(Fawn Gunderson/Landquest photo).

Parks purchase hoped for
Crusoe of Lonesome Lake land
Acreage is rich in history
By Caitlin Thompson,
courtesy West Coast Traveller

T
           he BC Parks Foundation, the offi-      proposed parks-foundation acquisi-              some Lake in 1913 at age 21.
           cial charitable partner of BC Parks,   tion, known as the Birches, was built              The lake’s remoteness offered
           is fundraising to purchase one of      by Ralph Edwards, a pioneering                  the swans safety, but at the cost of
           the most well-known properties         homesteader, amateur pilot and con-             starvation during severe winters.
in the Bella Coola region: the former home        servationist. Unfortunately, the Birches        In 1925, the Canadian government
of Ralph Edwards, known to many as the            burned to the ground in a 2004 forest           enlisted Edwards’ help to feed the
“Crusoe of Lonesome Lake.”                        fire, but Ralph’s son, John Edwards,            swans during winter. Over the years,
    The 153-acre property is a rare pri-          constructed a small cabin which still           a number of family members took on
vately owned parcel in the middle of              stands there today.                             the task—first Ralph, then John and
a globally significant wilderness area:               Ralph was perhaps best known for            others— using sacks of corn hauled in
southern Tweedsmuir Provincial Park.              his commitment to the area’s trum-              by packhorse.
At almost one million hectares, it’s BC’s         peter swans, which faced extinction in             During then Princess Elizabeth’s
largest park. And Bella Coola can be              the 19th and early 20th centuries due           1951 tour of Canada, she was prom-
accessed via pacific Coastal Airlines.            to over-hunting, and were imperilled            ised a Dominion gift of trumpeter
    The original homestead on the                 when he took up residence at Lone-              swans, by arrangement of British

                                                    May/June 2021 |   24   | pacificcoastal.com
conservationist Peter Scott, who was
head of the Severn Wildlife Trust in
Britain (now known as the Wildfowl &
Wetlands Trust). Canadian officials dis-
covered the only swans tame enough
to capture were at Lonesome Lake
as they had been fed by the Edwards
family for decades.
    In 1952, with the help of Ralph and
his daughter, Trudy Turner (Trudy had
by now taken over feeding them), five
were captured and flown to Eng-
land, the first time trumpeter swans
had ever flown across the Atlantic
(although, in the 19th century, swans
had been brought by ship to Euro-
pean zoos).                                The original homestead, the Birches, unfortunately burned to the ground in a 2004 fire
                                           (photo unknown).

Ralph was perhaps best
known for his commitment
to the area’s trumpeter
swans, which faced extinc-
tion in the 19th and early
20th centuries due to over-
hunting, when he took up
residence at Lonesome Lake
in 1913 at age 21.

    In 1972, Ralph was awarded the
Order of Canada for his work, and by
the 1980s, trumpeter swan popula-
tions had increased throughout their
range, and the Canadian government
stopped its feeding program.
    Ralph and family members have
written or been featured in several
books and television programs, most
                                           Ethel Edwards sitting, second from the left, with Ralph behind her. Before his trademark
notably Leland Stowe’s bestsell-           beard. Or perhaps shaved for the wedding (Susan Turner photo).
ing Crusoe of Lonesome Lake and
his sister-in-law’s book Ruffles on        edition of This Is Your Life. Guests                   Ralph passed away in 1977 and
My Longjohns.                              for the show included his younger                  John in 2007. The property remains
    Ralph become semi-famous for his       brother, whom he had not seen in 35                in the family and the push is on for
living-off-the-land accomplishments        years; former army comrades, who                   the BC Parks Foundation to raise the
and was featured in a documentary,         he had not seen in 38 years; and his               funds to purchase this unique piece
as well as on the 1957 Christmas Day       93-year-old mother.                                of land.

                                             May/June 2021 |   25   | pacificcoastal.com
MASSET
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                                                                                                                      ALBERTA
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                                                  BELLA COOLA          WILLIAMS LAKE
                     BELLA BELLA

                           Hakai Pass

                                                Broughton
                                                Archipelago

                           PORT HARDY
                                                                                                               KAMLOOPS

                                             CAMPBELL RIVER
                                                                                                     KELOWNA

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                                                     COMOX
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                                              TOFINO                                  VANCOUVER SOUTH TERMINAL TRAIL               CANADA

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                                                    May/June 2021 |   26      | pacificcoastal.com
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