ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
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2 CONTENTS INTRODUCTION APPENDICES 04. CEO introduction 22. 2019 – 2020 KPI table 05. Programme at a glance 23. Factory policy poster 06. Top 20 source countries 24. Apparel tier 1 factory list 2020 SUMMARY 26. Apparel tier 2 factory list 08. 2020 summary 36. Apparel brand list 10. Her Project updates 37. Other categories factory list Getting the most from this report 12. COVID-19 updates 49. Country wage & working hour table A brief overview of our programme and progress in 2020 can be viewed on pages 5 and 8. Our key areas of focus 13. Responding to forced labour risks and achievements can be found on pages 10 to 20. SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Finally, the appendices from page 22 reveal performance trends over the past two years, and feature our factory 16. Better Cotton Initiative policy poster, brand and factory lists and source country wage and working hour data. 17. Forest Stewardship Council OUR POLICY IN PRACTICE 19. Policy in practice ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
4 CEO’S INTRODUCTION. APPENDICES programme. I believe, given our scale and challenges and achievements to date, POLICY IN PRACTICE diversity, this is the leading programme as well the road ahead. We invite both of its kind within the New Zealand retail your encouragement and suggestions for Ethical Sourcing is just one programme sector. improvement. within The Warehouse’s suite of “Sustainable & affordable” initiatives. Within The Warehouse Group’s 2020 Finally, I want to express my sincere Sustainable & affordable is The Annual Report, I pledged that COVID-19 gratitude to our ethical sourcing Warehouse’s guiding statement and will not slow down our commitment specialists and their colleagues within branding device representing our to becoming one of New Zealand’s our 200 person strong sourcing team. aspiration to become one of New Zealand’s SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS most sustainable companies while The results in this report are testament most sustainable companies while still continuing to deliver great value to our to their hard work and strong supplier delivering great value to our customers. customers. Ethical Sourcing is an collaborations through a unique and indispensable element of this, along with challenging year. our parallel commitments to climate change action and carbon neutrality, Kia Kaha. community engagement, waste reduction As l look back on the extraordinary and sustainable procurement – to name Nick Grayston disruption and challenges that COVID-19 a few. Group Chief Executive Officer 2020 SUMMARY brought to our business in 2020, The Warehouse Group I’m really proud to tell you that the Ethical and sustainable sourcing is momentum of The Warehouse’s Ethical a complex sector and while we have Sourcing Programme has continued made considerable progress through unabated. our programme, there is still a long way to go as we look for new ways to drive In fact, as I hope you will see in this positive change in our supply chain. INTRODUCTION report, in many ways 2020 was a The goal of this report is to provide benchmark year for the evolution of our full transparency about our journey, ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
5 PROGRAMME AT A GLANCE. APPENDICES 170 POLICY IN PRACTICE In 2020 The Warehouse’s private label products were sourced from 489 factories 1 vendor responsibility. The Warehouse’s own internal ethical sourcing experts delivered Newly qualified 208 88% Audits Audit factories 47 transparency primarily located in China, Bangladesh, 23 supplier responsibility trainings to India, Vietnam, Malaysia, and Pakistan.2 our largest vendors and trading houses, Worker feedback and 86% 98% About 246,000 workers were involved enabling them to take greater responsibility in this production. 170 new factories for factory standards. helpline trainings Au (67% of applicants) qualified to enter our di Average overall Production ice ta n audit score traceability supply chain via third party Labour and Our due diligence and investigative o 2200 uction ba v Environmental Audits. work revealed one case of underage d d SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS o se er r du rk labour and 22 instances of unauthorised P ed Worker Wo Our audit transparency rating – an subcontracting. interviewees ilig important indicator of the reliability of enc audit disclosures – improved to 88%. 208 In such zero tolerance instances we always e audits were completed in the year. Our follow a strict protocol to protect the qualification processes and the linkage of order data to production sources means welfare of any underage worker and apply commercial disciplines and penalties, 489 Active factories that we can currently trace 98% of our including business termination. 1 268 li e r 246,000 product range to a qualified factory. We continue to place strong emphasis on the More than 2000 workers were interviewed en upp Ze r execution of any corrective action plans by our own staff or third parties to ensure Underage Corrective action 2020 SUMMARY worker findings Production plan oversight ot pm d s t generated by external audits. 268 such we were integrating their voices into any workers ol an plans were being tracked to completion corrective actions we asked factories to n er nc o t el o i a by our internal team. In support of these undertake. Our team presented a new e fi a improvements, factories completed over 2000 e–Learning lessons on topics such training on worker feedback and helpline mechanisms to 47 leading vendors and 22 nd in g s Re m i e d d ev 2037 23 Unauthorised Elearning Supplier as audit preparedness, working hour factories. subcontracting lessons responsibility control, transparency and ethics, and findings trainings INTRODUCTION 1. Factories with orders >USD 50K in the period. 2. See supply chain map on page 6 and factory lists pages 24. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
6 TOP 20 SOURCE APPENDICES COUNTRIES. 0.96% POLICY IN PRACTICE UK 2.36% 65.43% USA China The Warehouse’s supply chain China remains the largest source comprises a network of country by a big margin with its 1.91% India New Zealand and Australian based unparalleled category mix, integrated agents and suppliers, and our own raw material and component supply direct sourcing offices in Asia. Our merchandise consists of both national chain and efficient logistics and infrastructure. We are developing 5.15% SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Bangladesh and international brands, and The new sources in India, Bangladesh and 8.14% Warehouse’s own private label ranges. Pakistan especially in apparel and NZ Made home textiles. In 2020 about 47% of sales were derived from our own branded merchandise. Our ethical sourcing New Zealand remains an important source country for food, beverage and Sourcing office staff members 5.94% Shanghai 120 Dhaka 23 Australia policy and all relevant New Zealand everyday grocery items. Delhi 12 Auckland 35 laws and regulations apply to all suppliers. The assurance mechanisms described in this report are deployed only to our private label suppliers 2020 SUMMARY Source countries Share of Sales Source countries Share of Sales Source countries Share of Sales and their Tier 1 (final manufacture) factories.1 China 65.43% Thailand 1.16% Italy 0.44% The accompanying map and table New Zealand Made 8.14% United Kingdom 0.96% Switzerland 0.38% illustrates the top 20 source countries Australia 5.94% Vietnam 0.89% Poland 0.34% for all products sold in The Warehouse, Bangladesh 5.15% Malaysia 0.75% Indonesia 0.34% and the location of our direct sourcing teams including quality and ethical United States of America 2.36% Pakistan 0.60% Belgium 0.24% INTRODUCTION sourcing specialists. India 1.91% Germany 0.52% Canada 0.21% New Zealand Assembled 1.90% France 0.47% 1. A list of these factories can be found on pages 24-37. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
7 2020 SUMMARY. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
APPENDICES POLICY IN PRACTICE 8 Despite COVID-19 disruptions to our overall at 56% over 54 plans - reflecting for close is the challenge posed by the very Chinese supply chain early in 2020, and most part persistence of high average weekly small percentage of factories at the tail of later elsewhere in Asia, activities reached working hours in Bangladesh. our supply chain with low order volumes an all time high and helped to deliver very Underpinning these tangible improvements – usually small factories that have some promising outcomes for our factories. is all the supplier training and development unique capability. The cost of an external work undertaken by our internal teams in audit is too high for this kind of supplier - Our 2020 new factory entrant numbers China and South Asia. This includes factory given the low value of their business with us. were down year-on-year as audit activity enrollment in our e–Learning curriculum, For this reason previously they would not paused due to COVID-19 lockdowns. We supplier workshops both in person and have had any kind of formal assessment. For SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS took special care to ensure that worker rights virtually, and factory visits. In some cases, these cases we have adapted our audit into a were not comprised by COVID-19 by regular multiple forms of engagement are needed to simplified self-assessment which we require surveys of factories in India and Bangladesh create the supplier motivation and capability them to complete along with some e– on their COVID-19 lockdown status, the needed to effect change. Learning lessons. Our internal team review 2020 maintenance of their payroll obligations, and these self-assessments and randomly select their adherence to industry COVID-19 safety An opportunity we had identified in our some candidates for an onsite assessment by protocols. training programme was a lack of emphasis our own team. In this way we at least have some insight into SUMMARY. on worker grievance and feedback channels. We strengthened our emphasis on ensuring We remedied this by getting 47 of our leading standards at this level of our supply chain and any corrective action plans are appropriately vendors to complete an online course on can respond to any labor risks identified. implemented in factories that returned this topic and an attend a series of face-to- 2020 SUMMARY negative findings in our audits. These action face trainings. An adjunct to this was this Rewarding and impactful as this development plans are how we leverage the time and distribution of an updated policy poster work is, it is also necessary to maintain some energy that audits involve, into tangible to all factories, which included for the first enforcement and disciplinary tension with our improvements for workers. To ensure the time an independent contact number and supply chain. Our commercial terms include Our aim is to ensure customers can have confidence our plans are making an impact, we track the QR code workers can use to reach out to us penalties for breaches of our integrity policy. products have been ethically sourced. We do this by focusing correction of any negative findings in relation directly should they choose. We then updated Our risk-based investigations revealed 22 on the qualification of new factories, ongoing monitoring and to working hours, rest days and pay our audit protocol, instructing auditors to instances of unauthorised subcontracting training for factories and vendors, identifying and supporting entitlements. In China last year we evidenced validate that workers were indeed aware of in 2020 with attendant penalties and other INTRODUCTION joint industry initiatives such as Her Project and the Better a 91% correction rate of these issues in the these redress channels. consequences. Cotton Initiative, and the provision of transparent reporting to 214 plans we were monitoring. In Bangladesh, India and Pakistan our success rate was lower Another gap in our coverage we strove to our teams, leaders and public. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
APPENDICES 9 2020 SUMMARY. POLICY IN PRACTICE SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS now enrolling two new factories in these primary audit service provider. programmes. Our membership of Nirapon – successor Another great initiative we are proud to be Implicit in all this activity is business-to- to the Alliance for Worker Safety in a member of is the Better Cotton Initiative business and people-to-people goodwill Bangladesh - expired in January 2020. The - the world’s largest cotton sustainability across national and cultural boundaries. He aha te mea nui o te ao? 2020 SUMMARY Bangladesh Accord for Worker Safety has programme. We joined in November in What is the most important thing in transformed into a joint initiative with The 2019 and now over half of our cotton We are privileged to access the capabilities the world? Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and procurement has been sourced as Better of these workforces and the everyday He tangata, he tangata, Exporters Association (BGMEA) which we Cotton (BCI). benefits they bring to our customers. he tangata. may join as this initiative takes shape. It is the people, it is the people, Back in New Zealand, we were pleased Trevor Johnston it is the people. Our first two “Her Project” factory to co-facilitate a sustainability forum Head of Ethical Sourcing & Sustainable partnerships in Bangladesh concluded with Retail New Zealand in March. The Merchandise. INTRODUCTION in 2020. We are delighted with their conversation focused on ethical sourcing The Warehouse Group. contribution to feminine health and and we were joined by guest speakers from hygiene in those workforces and are Tear Fund, Kathmandu, and ELEVATE – our ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
APPENDICES POLICY IN PRACTICE 10 Ensuring that these women have the partnership and plan to commence two new feeding increased. 100% of women reported information and access to services that HERproject programmes in Bangladesh in that women should exclusively breastfeed they need to prevent and treat disease and 2021. her child for only 6 months, this increased maintain their health is vital. from 69% in the baseline. After the kick-off meeting with top • At the end-line, 96% of respondents knew In 2019 The Warehouse partnered with managements and middle management how to self-conduct breast exam, up from HERhealth : two of its Bangladesh suppliers - Impress- orientation, the training was preceded 5% at the baseline and the percentage of SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS 1 Newtex Composite and Manami Fashions by a baseline study capturing the health women who would seek screening services - and Business for Social Responsibility’s knowledge and behaviours of a sample of the for breast cancer and cervical cancer HERproject business initiative, to deliver the workforce and closed with an end line study increased by about 37%. A PARTNERSHIP 18-month long HERhealth training to female of the same sample. workforces in these two factories. The work • The level of knowledge on the benefits was closely followed and supported by our Some examples of the outcomes: of ergonomics (workplace posture) has ethical sourcing specialists based in our Impress-Newtex Composite (788 female increased at the end-line. Now, 100% of FOR CHANGE. Dhaka Sourcing office and jointly funded by workers) women are aware of the recommended The Warehouse and the two suppliers. • The consumption of eggs increased by 47%; posture of avoiding aches and pain, which consumption of iron rich vegetables and was only 36% at the baseline. HERhealth follows the HERproject dark green leafy vegetables increased by • Gender attitudes to reproductive health and 2020 SUMMARY methodology, delivering workplace-based more than 24%; fruit consumption increased family planning changed at the end-line interventions with a dual approach: by 18% and consumption of vitamin A-rich study with a much higher weighting towards fruits and vegetables increased 12%. shared male and female responsibilities. The Warehouse recognises that women working in • HERproject provides guidance to managers • During menstruation, all (100%) women • Impress – Newtex Management comment: global supply chains, many of whom are young and on policies and systems improvements workers now use sanitary napkins instead “As a result of participating in HERProject, so that managers can build inclusive undereducated migrants, have limited health knowledge of fabric scraps from the factory or cloth (we) observed that a healthy workforce, workplaces for women. and often lack access to critical health services and from home. This is compared to 74% at the especially women workers inspired to fulfil • Small groups (5%) of women within the baseline. production target, provide quality work and products. This is especially true in Bangladesh – a vital INTRODUCTION factories and farms learn key information. reduce absenteeism. They are aware of source for our garment manufacture. • 80% of the women reported using modern They then become Peer Educators and health and hygiene and maintain it in family planning in the end-line survey share this information with colleagues. factory and in their family. There are vast compared to 59% at baseline. positive changes observed in the factory We are really proud of the outcomes of this • Knowledge levels on the value of breast and their families." 1. HERhealth™ | Programs | BSR (herproject.org). ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
APPENDICES 11 HERhealth: A PARTNERSHIP POLICY IN PRACTICE FOR CHANGE. 80% 60% 80% 41% 72% 60% 40% 89% HERhealth 72% case study. 89% 46% Maya has been working at Manami51%Fashions Ltd. Mrs. 41% 40% 46% 51% for the last three years. She has two daughters. She learned about personal hygiene, balanced diet SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS and advantages of keeping a family small from the EXAMPLES OF HERhealth HERhealth training. Before she would often suffer from different health issue such as common cold, cough, IMPACTS TO DATE: stomach ache and weakness. Mrs. Maya does not face these issues anymore, after following the health 80% 60% 80% 72% 60% 89% 72% 89% messages properly. When she learned the advantages 41% 40% 41% 46% 40% 51% 46% 51% a family small, she decided to keep her of keeping family small as well. 80% 80% 60% 60% 72% 72% 89% 89% 95% increase in number of She shared the story of her sister, Mrs. R---- Her sister women believe41% 40% 50% increase in number 46% 51% 41% that a40% baby 46% of women using family 51% also has two daughters. Her family is not financially should be born in a hospital. planning products. stable. Mrs. R---- does not use any family planning 2020 SUMMARY methods because she experiences discomfort if she uses oral pills or injection. Mrs. Maya then discussed I feel empowered for being the advantages of keeping families small and the able to help myself as well advantages of using family planning methods with her sister. She advised her sister to use condoms since as my family members. 80% 60% 60% 72% 72% 89% 89% 56% increase in number 76% increase in number of other family planning methods did not suit her. 41% 40% 40% 46% 46% 51% of women reporting using 51% women that are aware of Maya health clinics. HIV can be prevented. Mrs. R----- followed her sister’s advice and began using INTRODUCTION condoms. Now her physical condition is better, and she also feels relaxed because she can maintain her small Aggregated participant survey data from all programmes showing % change from baseline to end line responses. family well. Mrs. Maya thanked the HERhealth project and shared that – ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
12 COVID–19 SUPPLY APPENDICES CHAIN IMPACTS. POLICY IN PRACTICE As readers will know in 2020 COVID-19 has had raised early about the impacts on vulnerable • Distributed COVID-19 safe resource kits a profound impact on Supply Chains Globally. workforces in developing countries. At the prepared by our industry partners – ELEVATE, The first COVID-19 forced factory lockdowns end of March, the Bangladesh Garment Her Project, and The Responsible Business began in China in February 2020, followed by Manufacturers and Exporters Association Alliance – to supplier factories. a further wave of factory lockdowns in other (BGMEA) reported that a 1000 of their member • In the case of India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan parts of Asia in the following months. Early in factories had suffered the rapid cancellation of SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS – regions that have been significantly 2020 our own stores also suffered lockdowns USD $2.8 billion worth of orders. The BGMEA impacted by COVID-19 – we contacted and partial openings until fully reopening under President put out an international plea to factories directly to confirm and track their COVID-19 alert level 1 on June 8th. buyers to honor their commitments and COVID-19 management practices, confirmed collaborate with their Bangladesh partners in they were meeting all payment obligations to The rolling pandemic presented multiple supply order to survive the crisis. Many labour NGOs their workforces, and operating in accordance chain challenges to manage. With the first wave and the International Labour organisation made with any government guidelines. of factory lockdowns in China we were faced similar calls to action. with delayed availability of future orders and • Surveyed some supplier groups to assess then as New Zealand lockdowns commenced In response The Warehouse: COVID-19 impacts on their production and we encountered an inverse dilemma – pending • Ensured we honoured payments due for goods capacity. inventory we could not trade. Once the New already produced or where materials had been • Continued to deliver our Ethical Sourcing 2020 SUMMARY Zealand retail market was fully opened again a purchased. programme elements of ELearning, vendor surge in consumer spending created another training, and remotely managing corrective • Provided supplier access to prompt payment challenge, and our sourcing teams raced to action plans where physical visits or audits facilities through our banking partner. rebuild inventory levels amidst delays in our were not possible. supply chain, which still persist in early 2021. • Allowed factories to self-inspect goods and • Reviewed and benchmarked our own actions ship without delay - waiving our usual 3rd against international calls to supply chain These impacts on retailers and consumers party inspection requirements. action such as the Tear Fund COVID-19 reverberated back on many suppliers who faced INTRODUCTION • Restricted our own Asia-based team members Commitments and the International Labour a wave of order cancellations or deferments business travel and supported their work from Organization’s Call to Action. exacerbating productivity losses due to home needs to ensure their COVID-19 safety. their own local lockdowns. Concerns were ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
13 RESPONDING TO APPENDICES FORCED LABOUR The Responsible Business Alliance programme concluded in 2020. The RBA Foundation was able to measure the below overall impacts1 across all program participants through a series of baseline and endline worker surveys. RISKS. POLICY IN PRACTICE Workers paid Workers borrowed recruitment fees money to pay fees 26% 43% Workers received Workers keeping their own Foreign migrant workers play an important role Among the countries we source from, Malaysia full reimbursement personal documents 19% 9% in many economies, including New Zealand’s. has the highest number of foreign migrant SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS However, they are often vulnerable to unwitting workers and we have been working for some or deliberate exploitation, on a spectrum from time with our supplier base there to identify unpaid overtime to forced labour or modern- risks of forced labour and share insights into day slavery. Recent legislation, such as the the recruitment pathways their migrant workers Recruitment agents participating, Modern Slavery Acts in the UK and Australia, follow. Working together with the factory are more likely to be recommended indicate governments’ increasing interest in management and their recruitment agents we doing more to protect these vulnerable workers. have been able to significantly improve in these practices. Lower number of workers paid recruitment fees Fewer workers borrowed money to pay fees • Many of them migrate without information Overall, the percentage of workers that paid fees The percentage of workers who borrowed money to and knowledge about their job, employer and In addition to carrying our own independent reduced by 26%. In addition, for workers that joined pay recruitment fees dropped by 43%. This is related country of destination, creating the potential due diligence and remediation work, we in the last year and did still pay fees, the average fee to the reduction in fees, since workers may not need for exploitation by recruitment agencies; also invited two of our leading Malaysian payment amount decreased, especially for workers to borrow money for smaller amounts. 2020 SUMMARY partners, Muda Paper Converting (school from Indonesia, Nepal and Myanmar. • Workers are often subjected to high stationery) and Evergreen Fibreboard (flat- More workers are keeping their own passports recruitment fees which may lead them into pack furniture) to join a program for employers More workers are reimbursed for fees paid The percentage of workers who keep their own debt bondage; and their recruitment agents working with The percentage of workers who received a passports also increased by 9%. Small factories had foreign migrants. The program was hosted full reimbursement for their recruitment fees the most significant gains here, up to 22%. This is • Entrenched negative and discriminatory and facilitated by the Responsible Business increased from 19% to 38%. However, significant likely because they had not previously invested in attitudes towards migrant workers reinforce Alliance’s Foundation (RBA Foundation) improvement was seen in electronics workplaces the infrastructure such as lockers to enable workers their vulnerability towards exploitation by supported by a grant from the Walmart from 26% to 64%. On the other hand, small secure access to their passports. INTRODUCTION recruitment agencies and employers; and Foundation – in addition participating brands workplaces (fewer than 100 workers) and non- such as The Warehouse and its suppliers also electronics workplaces did not show significant Recruitment agents participating in the programme • Ineffective provision of grievance mechanism made contributions. improvement on reimbursements, were more likely to be recommended by the and remedy exacerbates their condition when likely because of the financial implications. workers. they arrive at the country of destination. 1. Courtesy Responsible Business Alliance Foundation – Transforming Recruitment of Migrant Workers Practices in Malaysia (Interim Public Report). ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
14 RESPONDING TO FORCED APPENDICES LABOUR RISKS. POLICY IN PRACTICE Attention Responsible Business Alliance Foundation Attention The Warehouse The programme was well received by our suppliers Dear Ms. Lim, Dear Mr. Trevor, Happy to see your email and thank you for sharing the Interim Report It is great to hear from you. Hope that you are doing well. which is very informational. SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS As for RRP (Responsible Recruitment Programme), currently we are in the Our appreciation goes to our customer The Warehouse in getting us progress of improving some of our documentation, such as – GAP analysis. to join this program. A big thank you to you and your team Ms. Lim in taking us through this program where we were able to learn and put As recruitment agency, we would like to state that we appreciate the fully into practice and achieve the desired results. supported RRP programme. I am confident that with our customers’ support, Evergreen’s journey Feedback from my staff is that they have gained deep knowledge and their to be a responsible workplace will continue. understanding improved after attending activities provided. Furthermore, the foreign workers are very happy and aware of their rights working in Malaysia. We shall strive to improve and work towards achieving better outcome in this year. I am looking forward to giving you more updates on the upcoming activities 2020 SUMMARY by RBA Foundation. We take this opportunity to thank Evergreen and The Thank you. Warehouse for giving us opportunity to participate in this program. Kind regards, Thank you very much. Hope we can meet very soon. N.A.Pagan, Regards, HR & Admin Department, Evergreen Fibreboard Berhad, Jason Cheong INTRODUCTION PLO 22, Parit Raja Industrial Estate. Agensi Pekerjaan Liew Mee Choo Sdn Bhd (Recruitment Agent for Evergreen BHD ) ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
APPENDICES 16 Thanks to the work of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the minimising environmental harm is a priority for The Warehouse. largest cotton sustainability programme in the world, farmers We are proud to be a member of The Better Cotton Initiative. Cotton is one of the most popular commodities in the cotton supply chain can have a voice and can work to in the world. It is a renewable resource, but its improve the sustainability of this vital crop. When we joined BCI in 2019 we made a public commitment production is vulnerable to poor environmental POLICY IN PRACTICE to source 50% of our cotton as Better Cotton by 2024. management and working conditions. Through our membership fees, BCI licensed farmers can We are pleased that as at the end of 2020 we nearly achieved produce cotton in a way that cares for the environment, that goal. minimising the negative effects of fertilisers and pesticides and caring for water, soil health and natural habitats. BCI Better Cotton is sourced via a system of Mass Balance farmers also commit to decent work principles – conditions and is not physically traceable to end products. that support workers’ safety and wellbeing. See bettercotton.org/massbalance for details. @Better Cotton Initiative Supporting the people who create the products we sell and 2020 IMPACTS SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS In 2020 The Warehouse sourced Better Cotton Consumption 3. More than one billion litres of water were saved thanks to units equivalent to 2270 tonnes of cotton lint. This represents our sourcing of Better Cotton. about half of the cotton contained in our apparel and home 4. An estimated 650 kgs of pesticides were avoided thanks to textile ranges. our sourcing of Better Cotton. 1. More than 3500 farmers reached/trained due to our 5. An estimated 472 thousand euros of additional farmer investment. profitability1 was generated thanks to our sourcing of Better 2. Almost 6,750 hectares of land cultivated with Better Cotton Cotton in 2020. Initiative due to our investment. 1 BCI Farmers experience profit increases for a variety of reasons, most commonly due to increased yields and/or optimised use of inputs (such as irrigation water, pesticides or synthetic fertiliser). 2020 SUMMARY BETTER @Better Cotton Initiative COTTON @Better Cotton Initiative INITIATIVE. INTRODUCTION BETTERCOTTON.ORG ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
17 FOREST APPENDICES STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL. POLICY IN PRACTICE ® FSC.ORG SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS We know that our customers are Environmental protection FSC® certification requires biodiversity to be worried about climate change. They are aware of the link between maintained, and high conservation value areas - including old growth forests – to be protected FSC® PRODUCTS AT climate change and the preservation THE WAREHOUSE Indigenous peoples’ rights respected of forests – one of the world’s most FSC® certification requires forest inhabitants to You can find Forest Stewardship Council® products throughout our Stationery, Back to School, Toys, Art precious resources. be consulted and engaged, and cultural rights to be maintained & Craft, and Outdoor Furniture product ranges. That’s why The Warehouse is a member of Fair wage and work environment for workers In 2020 these exceeded over 700 product lines selling in excess of 3 million units. 2020 SUMMARY Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®) and has FSC® has a strong focus on securing been specifying (FSC®)certified wood and workers’ rights by incorporating core paper products since the early 2000s. labour requirements into its system. These requirements include effective abolition of FSC® is the world’s most trusted sustainable child labour, elimination of all forms of forced forest management solution and the original or compulsory labour, the elimination of pioneer of forest certification. discrimination in respect of employment and Our FSC® and FSC Mix® certified paper and occupation, respect of freedom of association INTRODUCTION wood product ranges provide assurance of : and the effective recognition of the right to collective bargaining. Zero deforestation Although trees are harvested, there is no net Learn more: loss of forest over time Forest Stewardship Council® (fsc.org) ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
OUR POLICY IN PRACTICE. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
19 POLICY IN APPENDICES Wages and working hours In 2020 the average audit score for wages and working hours was 73%. Determining workers’ actual pay and its PRACTICE. relationship to legal entitlements and working hours is one of the most important and challenging tasks for our auditors. The baseline indicator an auditor must be aware POLICY IN PRACTICE of is the legal minimum wage for that region and any entitlements such as workplace insurance. In many developing countries’ workplaces, workers are paid by pieces This section explains further how the major themes of our produced rather than an hourly rate. Auditors policy1 are applied in practice. must convert a worker’s total piece rate payments into an equivalent hourly rate for regular hours worked and an overtime rate for overtime hours worked. To make this Management Systems Child Labour Voluntary Labour Health & Safety calculation true auditors must have both SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Average audit score for policies and We had one underage worker finding We had no forced labour findings Our average health and safety audit score in accurate payroll data and accurate working management systems in 2020 = 95%. in 2020. in 2020. 2020 was 90%. hour data and then validate that this amount Within the first section of every audit we Child labour is a zero-tolerance issue within This policy provision addresses risks of forced A safe workplace is the most basic worker was paid to the worker either in cash or via undertake, there is a comprehensive series of our due diligence approach. labour abuse. In addition to checking for a entitlement. Our due diligence assessment bank account deposits. A random sample twenty-seven checkpoints which examine the factory’s policies on these topics our auditors contains over 57 Health & Safety investigation of payroll records for individual workers are factories policies and management systems. Our auditors carefully review identity records also closely examine payroll practices for points. Fortunately, in most cases, because analysed and averaged over several months, These address wages, benefits and hours, for any evidence of underage workers along evidence of delayed or withheld payments, of the long-held focus of brands on this and cross checked with payslips information overtime rates, discipline and termination, with careful observation of workers during or deductions associated with disciplinary area, and the interest of local governments, from worker interviews. grievance procedures, harassment and abuse interviews and the factory tour. Wherever fines. Where evidence of these practices is Health & Safety is consistently one of and written contracts. Also included are age we encounter an underage worker we always found, an immediate corrective action to the the highest scoring sectors within our We have been tracking developing country identification, freedom of association and issue the factory a warning along with a offending practice is raised. Bonded labour audit reports. In Bangladesh, because of working hours data for more than ten years. collective bargaining rights, prohibitions on requirement that they take steps to help is a concern in countries such as Malaysia historical deficiencies in the quality of their Unlike progressive increases in wages, and 2020 SUMMARY child labour, forced or bonded labour, and the underage worker leave the workplace where there are high rates of migrant workers construction and infrastructure, we have an significant improvement in health, safety, and non-discrimination on grounds of pregnancy while ensuring they are in safe keeping until coming from other developing countries. additional requirement that factories must environmental measures, working hours have or other reasons. the school term recommences or the child In these environments, our auditors look be able to evidence that they hold positive remained persistently high – especially when reaches the legal working age. The occasional closely at the recruitment pathways deployed remediation status within one of the major viewed from a western perspective. incident of an underage worker working with by the factory, their practices around the historical safety initiatives in Bangladesh. a relative in the school holidays or entering safekeeping of identity documents, and (The Bangladesh Accord and The Alliance for the workforce a few months prematurely is worker disclosures about the fees paid to worker safety). very different to systemic and abusive child secure their placements or access to working labour – which we have never encountered in visas. The legality of visas is closely examined INTRODUCTION the tier of the supply chain we can observe as undocumented workers or those with and influence. expired visas are vulnerable to exploitation. 1. See page 23 for an abbreviated version of our policy. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
20 POLICY IN PRACTICE. APPENDICES POLICY IN PRACTICE A cultural norm of “12 (hours) x 6 (days)” Freedom of association and collective Subcontracting Business integrity is tacitly endorsed through many Chinese bargaining Our risk-based investigations revealed 22 Our overall audit transparency score in 2020 workplaces including some white-collar Each audit we undertake includes an instances of unauthorised subcontracting was 88%. environments. Long hours remain despite evaluation as to whether these worker in 2020. Every audit we undertake contains the auditor’s the intensive monitoring efforts of numerous rights are being restricted. However, the Ensuring that production is occurring in assessment of the transparency and reliability brands and multi-stakeholder initiatives. legal sanction for such rights varies by qualified source factories is a challenge in of the audit findings. Our auditors function Unless local governments decide to strictly country. China for example has not ratified many supply chains - especially in apparel within a protocol that demands an immediate enforce this element of their labour law, the International Labour Organization and footwear. We have developed a way notification of any integrity breaches such change is unlikely. Production worker earning conventions related to the rights to organise, to identify factories that may be at risk of as bribery attempts. We received two such aspirations, and competitive labour markets associate, and collectively bargain. Nor has it these practices by analysing their patterns of notifications in 2020. By far the most common SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS continue to dictate working hour norms – ratified the convention obliging ILO members production and shipping. Where indicated, breach of integrity we encounter is an attempt even where wages have grown significantly. to maintain a system of labour inspection. Environment we then conduct surprise inspections which during an audit to misrepresent payroll and Our approach is to place transparency at Bangladesh by contrast has ratified both Factories’ environmental audit scores involved a multifaceted reconciliation working hour data. This is a zero-tolerance the forefront and seek a reliable account of these conventions – their garment sector averaged 87% in 2020. of the factories production assets and issue for us and unless this is resolved working hours in every audit we undertake. alone has more than 500 registered trade The suite of environmental check points documentation against our purchase promptly we terminate the trading relationship. unions. Notwithstanding China’s position our within our audit tool seeks to assess first order history. In the instances where we Our commercial terms include penalties According to data from our China factory audits have never revealed any attempts by whether the factory has achieved any form uncover unauthorised subcontracting we for submitting falsified documentation or audits in 2020 average weekly working hours factory management to restrict these rights. of external environmental accreditation such may suspend trading with the responsible certificates. were 63 hours. In a much wider sample of as ISO 14001, or Oeko-Tex 100. We then vendor or factory until we can re-establish audits undertaken for multiple international examine the factories environmental planning confidence that they will adhere to our We maintain suppler scorecards with social brands working hour averages for China resources such as its policies, environmental policies. An escalating series of commercial and environmental measures. High performing and Bangladesh respectively were 65 and hazard register, and records associated with penalties are applied which may lead to a suppliers are rewarded with extra business. 2020 SUMMARY 66 hours per week.1 We believe by pursuing energy and water conservation. Finally, termination of the business relationship. transparency and accepting reasonable local we track the practical and legally required New Zealand is still fortunate enough to working norms we are much more able to actions being taken to monitor wastewater Unless a final manufacture site is very large enjoy the highest ranking in Transparency identify excessive hours and reduce these via discharge, control air pollutants, dispose of and vertically integrated some processes International’s World Corruption Perceptions the corrective actions plan agreed with the solid waste, enable recycling, and deal with and most procurement of materials Index. We are lucky that “doing the right thing“ factory. A typical corrective action request any hazardous wastes. and components must be sourced from is still a core Kiwi value. At the Warehouse, we where excessive hours are identified is to first subsidiary suppliers or processors. This is are determined to do our best to uphold this reduce weekly hours to 72 or less with one We have observed a steady improvement in a necessary and entirely legitimate form of value wherever we operate. We know we are rest day per week along with an insistence environmental practices In the history of our subcontracting. not perfect - we find challenges everyday – INTRODUCTION that overtime hours are compensated programme. Many factories especially those but we are continuing to press forward with correctly. in the textile sector now exhibit leading edge efforts to foster supplier relationships based water, energy, and chemical management on transparency and integrity. See wage and working hour table page 49 policies. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
APPENDICES. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
22 PROGRAMME OUTCOMES & APPENDICES TRENDS 2019 – 2020. POLICY IN PRACTICE This table captures the most important activities amd outcomes over the past two years. Some activity was restricted in 2020 due to COVID-19 lockdowns in source countries. Key Measures and Activity Trends 2019 2020 Key Measures and Activity Trends 2019 2020 SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Active factories (all categories) 593 489 Audit transparency achieved 85% 88% % Validated verbal and documented audit disclosures Active factories (apparel only) 119 102 Factories with orders > USD 50K in the period Traceability of orders to qualified factories 95.30% 98.05% New factories qualified 240 170 Unauthorised subcontracting findings New factories declined 18 22 115 84 Discovered via unannounced production audits… subject to financial penalties Pass rate of new applicants - 67% in 2020 Audits completed (unannounced) Underage worker findings 341 208 0 1 Labour and Environmental audits by qualified 3rd parties – all semi-announced since 2019 Incidents always followed by a standardised underage worker remediation protocol Audit waivers (desktop recognition) approved e–Learning lessons completed 2020 SUMMARY 77 68 2443 2037 Recognition of an existing audit report from a qualified 3rd party Topics include , assessment preparation, working hours control, transparency and ethics, corrective action plans, vendor responsibility Average overall audit score 84% 86% Supplier responsibility trainings • Policies 93% 95% Face to Face workshop training with vendors enabling them to maintain their own due diligence 44 23 over their factory base. • Wages and Working Hours 69% 73% • Health & Safety 90% 90% Worker feedback and helpline trainings N/A 47 A new training focused on worker grievance channels • Dormitory 91% 93% INTRODUCTION • Environment 86% 87% Corrective action plan progress follow up Average Audit Subsection scores 204 268 The number of factories under continues improvement monitoring within the calendar year ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
23 FACTORY POLICY POSTER. APPENDICES 1 POLICY IN PRACTICE This policy applies to all suppliers of goods and Voluntary Labour Wages and Benefits parallel means for independent and free association Reporting Breach of Policy services to The Warehouse Group, (TWG), which Our suppliers are prohibited from using any kind Wages for regular working hours shall meet or exceed and bargaining. Workers’ representatives should not be For more information or to anonymously report any includes the subsidiary companies The Warehouse, of prison or bonded labour. Any kind of obligation local minimum rates, enable workers to meet their discriminated against and have access to carry out their breach of this policy please contact: Noel Leeming Group, Warehouse Stationery, and associated with recruitment fees, fines, loans, deferred basic needs, and provide some discretionary income. representative functions in the workplace. ethical.sourcing@thewarehouse.co.nz Torpedo7. payment is prohibited. Any recruitment through human Where labour is employed indirectly through a licensed All reports will be followed up. The identity of trafficking is strictly prohibited throughout the supply agency or broker, wages for regular working hours shall Subcontracting anyone who makes a report will be kept strictly The policy is a supplement to, not a substitute for, all chain. Suppliers shall not retain identity documents meet or exceed local minimum rates, enable workers to Facilities engaged by the supplier / factory for confidential. local laws and regulations applying to suppliers in their (such as passports or identity cards) unless at the meet their basic needs, and provide some discretionary subsidiary processing must be disclosed at the time country of origin. Suppliers regardless of their size or request of workers and with written permission. income. of factory registration. Subsidiary processing facilities class of goods and services are expected to be aware may be inspected at any time at the discretion of Worker Feedback & Helpline of, and strive to adhere to, all laws and regulations Health & Safety Where workers are paid by piece, the factory’s piece The Warehouse Group. Purchase orders must be SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Workers should first endeavour to governing their operations especially in regard to the Suppliers must ensure safe and healthy working rate schedule should enable workers to achieve at least manufactured at the factory designated by the present feedback or complaints to the employment of their workforce, health and safety, conditions for all workers. Hazards must be clearly the minimum legal payment applicable to all regular and supplier on the purchase order. Order diversion or environmental protection, and the safety, quality, and identified and controlled through a working health and overtime hours worked. factory’smanagement and human subcontracting of primary manufacture to a factory legality of goods and services sold to companies within safety plan. Suppliers must appoint a senior manager resources staff. If feedback or complaints other than designated on the purchase order shall The Warehouse Group. to be responsible for health and safety , provide regular Every worker must have signed contracts that only occur with the advance knowledge and written about serious breaches of The safety training to workers, and ensure appropriate includes relevant information about their employment authority of The Warehouse Group. Warehouse Group policy are not resolved ETHICAL SOURCING POLICY ELEMENTS Personal Protection Equipment is used by workers at conditions, wages, working hours and benefits. with the factory, workers are welcome to The following standards are pre-requisite for all times. Suppliers must comply with all national laws, Business Integrity contact The Warehouse anonymously: all the suppliers in the TWG supply chain. regulations and best practices concerning building, Working Hours Suppliers shall not offer gifts or money to any employee electrical, and fire safety. Serious violations of local law Regular working hours, excluding overtime, should not or service provider engaged by The Warehouse. Via email: pertaining to worker health and safety should always be exceed legal limits. Overtime must not be excessive. All Assistance with transportation shall be limited to Management Systems ethical.sourcing@thewarehouse.co.nz reported to local authorities if not immediately resolved overtime hours should be voluntary and compensated local hub connections. Hospitality shall be limited to Suppliers should maintain all necessary policies, by factory management. correctly. working lunches or dinners. Where an employee or management and information systems, facilities, In India, Bangladesh and South East Asia 2020 SUMMARY and human resources needed to ensure they comply service provider of The Warehouse Group solicits gifts, Non-discrimination Workers shall be provided with at least one day off in money or any other benefit this must be declined and at: +880173119060 with all applicable local laws and regulations and the requirements of this policy. The suppliers must not discriminate in hiring, every seven-day period or two days off in every 14-day reported to The Warehouse Group at ethical.sourcing@ In China at below QR Code: compensation, promotion, termination or retirement period. thewarehouse.co.nz or to the most senior local based on race, caste, national origin, religion, age, representative of The Warehouse Group. Child Labour disability, gender, marital status, sexual orientation, Supplier must record workers’ regular and overtime Suppliers shall not employ workers younger than the union membership or political affiliation. Women must hours accurately as the basis for controlling excessive Suppliers and their employees shall not attempt to national minimum working age. A worker must be at be able to enter and remain in the workforce without working hours and providing correct compensation. fraudulently meet the requirements of this policy, or least 15 years old or over the minimum age required mandatory pregnancy testing and must have access quality standard, or any other business requirement by the local legislation of the country of manufacture. to all their maternity leave entitlements under local Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining through any kind of intentional misrepresentation or Suppliers must ensure all legal requirements for the INTRODUCTION law. A feedback and complaints policy, process, and Suppliers are required to recognize and respect the deception whether documentary or verbal in nature. work of authorized juvenile or young workers pertaining training must be established for workers that ensures right of their workers to freedom of association and Suppliers shall participate in any audits or assessment to hours of work, wages, type of work and working confidentiality, freedom from reprisal, and a pathway to collective bargaining in accordance with local law. undertaken with respect to their compliance with this conditions. Children are not permitted in the workshop resolution. The employer must not hinder, the development of policy in a cooperative and transparent manner. areas of the factory during holidays or at any other time. 1. Also translated into Hindi, Bangla and Mandarin. ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
24 TIER 1 APPAREL MANUFACTURING APPENDICES FACTORIES – ACTIVE IN 2020. POLICY IN PRACTICE Factory Name No. of workers Street Zone Town City Province Country Disclaimer: Arrival Fashion (Gazipur) 2225 Vill - Colomesshor P.O. - National University Gazipur Dhaka Bangladesh This factory list represents all our private Bd Designs Private Limited 2422 Plot: 48-49, Sector:03, Karnaphuli Epz Chittagong Chittagong N/A Bangladesh label apparel factories with orders in excess Birds RNR Fashions 2400 113, Baipail Ashulia Savar Dhaka Bangladesh of USD 50K in 2020. Equivalent in total to Essential Clothing 770 Akulichala, Sakashor Maddhapara Gazipur Dhaka Bangladesh 95% of order value. Our certainty about the Hams Garments 4850 Dakkhin Vangnahati, Boiragirchala Sreepur Gazipur Gazipur Bangladesh completeness of this list and the labour and SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Impress-Newtex Composite 4700 Gorai Mirzapur Tangail 0 Bangladesh environmental standards in these factories L Usine Fashion (Mawna Unit) 1000 Ansar Road, Kawya, Chonnapara, Maona. Sreepur Gazipur Kawya Bangladesh is provided in good faith and is based on the information accessible to us via the policies M.i.m Fashion 930 226/1, Tilargati, Shingbari Road Tongi Gazipur 0 Bangladesh and procedures described in this report Manami Fashion 1410 Kabirpur, Ashulia Savar Dhaka 0 Bangladesh and on our website. The publication of this Matrix Styles Ltd 990 Degerchala, National University, 0 Gazipur 0 Bangladesh list does not constitute an invitation nor Network Clothing 1000 228/3,Shahid Rawshan Sarak, Chandana Gazipur Gazipur 0 Bangladesh permission to visit these factories. These are Nippon Garment Industries 1200 Auchpara, Tongi, Gazipur 0 Gazipur 0 Bangladesh private businesses - not owned in whole or in Norban Comtex 3870 Mouza: Sarabo, Kashimpur Gazipur Gazipur Dhaka Bangladesh part by The Warehouse. Opex Garments 1104 56/1, Block-C, Section-13 Mirpur Dhaka Dhaka Bangladesh Silver Composite Textile 3055 Bk Bari, Taltoli Monipur Mirzapur Gazipur Bangladesh Tm Fashions 2400 Chandana Chowrasta Gazipur Sadar Gazipur City Gazipur Bangladesh Plot # 923 & 928, Aziz Complex, Vogra, National University, Joydevpur, Valmont Fashions 1805 0 Gazipur 0 Bangladesh Gazipur Voyager Apparels 758 8, Malibag Chowdhury Para, Dhaka-1219 0 Dhaka 0 Bangladesh Anhui Huiyuan Garments 350 107# Danxia Road Economic Development Zone Hefei Anhui China Baijia(Fujian) Underwear (FAMA) 1000 Shifeng Industrial Area Shenhu Jinjiang Fujian China 2020 SUMMARY Yan Qi Industrial Development Zone, Beijing Aikon Textiles 104 No. 11, West First Yanqihe Road, Beijing 0 China Huairou Changzhou Gaorui Clothing 180 No.16 Hongshan Road Jintan Changzhou Jiangsu China Changzhou Gaozhuo Clothing 160 No.2 North Xinghuo Road Hutang Changzhou Jiangsu China Cixi Aoerlan Garment 500 No.142, Datang West, Songjiacao Village, Kuangyan Town 0 Cixi City Zhejiang China Dongguan Yongzhi Leather 500 No.16 2nd Lane,Xuetang Village Liaobu Dongguan Guangdong China Fanchang Huanghu Garment 120 Huanghu Fangchang Wuhu Ahhui China Fortress Expert 157 Changhong Road 5, Zhangkeng Industrial Park Xicheng Area, Hengli Town Dongguan Guangdong China Minhou County, Fuzhou Outstar Clothing 35 2nd Floor, 1st Building,Riversuny Building, Zhongyuan Village Xiangqian Fujian China Fuzhou Gaotang Shangde Garments 121 South Of Hesheng Road Gaotang County Liaocheng City Shandong Province China INTRODUCTION GMT TW 292 No. 80 Longxing Nan Road Shaxi Zhongshan Guangdong China Guangzhou Bangqi Leather 300 No. 83 Xiangxing Road Shiling Town Guangzhou Guangdong China Yiqun Village, Shiling Town,Huadu Guangzhou Jingni Leather 500 No. 3, Lane 1, East Economic Society Guangzhou Guangdong China District Building A1, 2 Road No.3 Fangzhong Huangshatou Village Xintang Zengcheng Dis- Guangzhou Qiqi Garments 139 Xintang Guangdong China Town trict,Guangzhou City Haining Weiersi Kintting 300 No. 5, Shuanglian Road Haining Economic Development Zone Haining City Zhejing Province China Haiyang Worldbest Co., Ltd 220 No. 6, Yantai Street, Industrial Park Economic Development Area Fengcheng Haiyang Shandong China ETHICAL SOURCING REPORT 2021
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