Epicurean Ways FOOD & WINE IN ANDALUSIA, SPAIN - WITH CHEF SUSAN SPICER OCTOBER 12 - 22, 2022
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Epicurean Ways
EXPERT FOOD & WINE TOURS IN SPAIN & PORTUGAL
FOOD & WINE IN ANDALUSIA, SPAIN
WITH CHEF SUSAN SPICER
OCTOBER 12 - 22, 2022
Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 1
TRIP ITINERARY Day 1 Arrive Madrid. Private Prado museum tour with art expert. Welcome dinner. Day 2 High-speed train to Córdoba. Olive oil farm visit with Andalusian brunch. Montilla Moriles organic winery. Taberna wine-pairing dinner with a local sommelier. Day 3 Historic Córdoba, patios and Mezquita tour. Lunch at Noor Restaurant (2 Michelin stars). To Sevilla. Traditional dinner. Day 4 Secret Sevilla tour. Free afternoon. Flamenco. Guided tapas tour dinner. Day 5 Private Royal Alcázar palace tour in Sevilla. Lunch at Palo Cortao. Day 6 Day trip to Aracena where DO Jabugo jamón ibérico (Iberian ham) is produced. See the free-range Iberian pigs, the curing rooms and taste various types of ham. Lunch in Aracena. To Hacienda de San Rafael in the Andalusian countryside. Dinner at Hacienda (home cooking). Day 7 Day trip to Sanlúcar. Estuary farm visit, fish market, plates of langostinos (local jumbo prawns) paired with Manzanilla sherry beachfront. Lunch at La Gitana winery, VOS and VORS (very old sherry) tasting in the bodega after lunch. Dinner at Hacienda (home cooking) Day 8 Day at the Hacienda. Enjoy the grounds, the pools, the gardens, the countryside peace. Cooking with Sanlúcar chef José Luis Tallafigo. Tastings of jamón ibérico, local goat and sheep’s milk cheeses, olive oil. Four-hands meal (Susan and José Luis), wine tasting. Day 9 Day trip to Cadiz before arriving in Jerez de la Frontera. Cádiz tour, market visit, stop in at traditional sherry taberna. Tapas lunch tour at gourmet shop-bars. Day 10 Jerez de la Frontera. Walking tour in the old town and market visit. Sherry winery visit. Paella-style rice lunch. La Carboná wine-pairing farewell dinner. Day 11 Departure Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 2
FOOD & WINE IN ANDALUSIA, SPAIN
WITH CHEF SUSAN SPICER
OCTOBER 12 - 22, 2022
Madrid
Spain’s capital and largest city, Madrid has rich history, pure Spanish culture and
world-class museums. Madrid’s cuisine has always been a mixture, bringing
together the best dishes and chefs from Spain’s diverse regions, but in the last few
years the restaurant scene has risen to new heights. This is the new center of
Spanish fine dining, gaining new innovative restaurants every day, which are
balanced perfectly by the traditional restaurants and tapas bars that continue to
thrive in the city. The perfect place to start a journey into the heart of Spain.
October 12
Day 1 - Madrid: The City of Art
❖ ARRIVAL IN MADRID
❖ PRIVATE PRADO MUSEUM VISIT
❖ WELCOME DINNER
Arrival in Madrid. After you settle in a guide will pick you up for a private Prado
Museum tour. Spain’s great art museum and one of the finest in the world, the
Prado Museum is a must-see for any art lover visiting Madrid. The sprawling 18th
century building holds an enormous collection of paintings, sculptures, and other
works by the great masters and lesser known artists, including the largest collection
of paintings by the Italian masters outside Italy. Spain’s greatest painters are well
represented, including numerous works by Goya and Velásquez. Touring the Prado
with a private art expert guide is the perfect way to make sure that you see the most
important works housed in the museum and understand their context.
Before dinner you may want to stop by a Madrid institution that’ll provide an
introduction to the traditional bars of Andalusia: La Venencia. With close to a
century of history, this is one of the last remaining bars in Madrid serving wine from
barrels. Step inside and get your first chance to try sherry, the flagship wine of the
Spanish South, straight from the barrel. The decoration feels exactly as it must have
in 1928, and La Venencia remains as popular as ever.
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Right behind Madrid’s Gran Vía is a temple to good wine– Angelita–where enthusiasts from the city and around the world gather and taste. An elegant bar draws the eye to the back of a modern, comfortable space dotted with tables. Brothers David and Mario maintain a wide range of wines by the glass here, with a focus on rare wines from cult producers and with a balance of Spanish and foreign wine. You’ll find glasses here that are hard to find even by the bottle, and the option to order half glasses makes it even more incredible. The selection by the bottle stretches into the hundreds, the perfect option if you decide to sit at one of the tables and enjoy the impeccable cuisine that forms the second pillar of Angelita’s fame. Using fresh produce from their parents’ garden alongside carefully sourced and prepared product from elsewhere, Angelita offers subtle, honest, seasonal dishes that would be exceptional on their own but shine bright accompanied by the staff’s wine selections. Downstairs you’ll find one of Madrid’s great cocktail bars, perfect for if you want to extend your experience here, with a combination of classic and creative drinks, cozy decor, and a selection of spirits on a par with the wine list upstairs. O/N Madrid, D Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 4
Andalusia Covering most of the southern part of Spain, Andalusia holds a charm that no other Spanish region can claim. It is, after all, the ancestral home of so many Spanish images–flamenco, Andalusian horses, bullfighting, sherry and tapas like pescaíto frito, the fresh quick-fried fish so ubiquitous in the south. Even by Spaniards, Andalusia tends to be painted as a single culture and destination, but in truth it’s perhaps the most varied part of the country. The wild coast of Huelva and Cádiz, with windswept beach bars and fresh seafood. The classic inland Andalusian cities of Sevilla, Jerez, and Córdoba, which are sisters but differ so much in their culture, food, history, and atmosphere. The mountain hideaway of Granada, the coastal metropolis of Málaga, the white villages of the mountains. To those with some experience in other parts of Spain, coming into contact with deep Andalusia is a revelation, like discovering a new world that begins south of Madrid. Córdoba In the center of Andalucia, the one-time Moorish capital of Córdoba is a real hidden gem. Best known for La Mezquita–its mosque turned cathedral–and the surrounding former Jewish quarter, the city offers more than meets the eye. The traditional tabernas are temples to classic Andalusian food, highlighting dishes like gazpacho’s cousin salmorejo, stewed oxtail, vegetable pisto with a fried egg, and a galaxy of delicious tapas. Córdoba is home to Noor, a one of a kind two Michelin star restaurant where chef Paco Morales unearths and reinterprets the cuisine of Al Andalus, the Moorish empire that once reigned in Andalusia. The countryside outside of town is rich in superb products. Some of Spain’s best olive oil is made near the city, and its influence on the cuisine here is strong. The Montilla Moriles wine region, where the local Pedro Ximenez grape grows in chalky white Albariza soils is outside of town. The wines are both dry and sweet, sherry-style, but the wineries there are also revolutionizing the winemaking and bringing out dry, non-sherry-style white wines. Córdoba has a rich cuisine that harkens back to its Moorish history, and the city’s tabernas, traditional tapas bars characterized by dark wood and cozy interiors, are the perfect places to discover it. Classic dishes of the city include salmorejo, a cold tomato soup thickened with bread and egg that is the local version of gazpacho, and rabo de toro, stewed oxtail. You can belly up to the bar and wash these and other delicious plates down with local Montilla Moriles wine as the locals do, or sit in one of Córdoba’s atmospheric plazas and enjoy the southern sun. Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 5
October 13
Day 2 - Olive Oil & Wine in Córdoba
❖ TO CÓRDOBA VIA HIGH-SPEED TRAIN
❖ OLIVE OIL MILL & ANDALUSIAN BRUNCH
❖ ORGANIC WINERY
❖ WINE TASTING TABERNA DINNER
Take the high-speed AVE train from Madrid to Córdoba (1.5 hours). Once in
Córdoba, set off to visit an olive oil mill outside of Córdoba and taste the single
varietal oils. The countryside around Córdoba produces some of the world’s finest
extra virgin olive oils. Step inside an artisan olive oil mill to discover how this
liquid gold is made and what makes the olive groves here so special. Tasting
exceptional olive oil right from the source is a perfect way to understand one of the
key ingredients of Spanish and specifically Andalusian cuisine. Enjoy an Andalusian
“brunch” of bread, olive oil, charcuterie and cheese in one of the historic farm
buildings.
Drive down the road to a family-run winery making organic Montilla Moriles wines
and vermouth. Have a tasting while the owner and winemaker tells you about his
wines. Montilla-Moriles is Jerez’s sister wine region near Córdoba, and one of
Spain’s hidden secrets. The hills and valleys of white chalky Albariza soil–like the
soils in Jerez and Champagne–yield wines of exceptional complexity. The local
Pedro Ximenez grape is used to make both dry and sweet wines. The main
differences between these wines and sherry are that Montilla Moriles wines are
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rarely fortified, whereas in Jerez they are, and that the flor yeast that gives the finest
dry wines their complexity can survive for decades here.
Check into your hotel in Córdoba. Free time to rest. If you’re feeling energetic you
may want to explore the old town and take a look at the Roman bridge crossing the
Guadalquivir River (the same river that passes through Sevilla before emptying into
the Atlantic at Sanlúcar, where you will have langostinos and manzanilla next to
the river delta).
Join up with our friend and local wine expert for a deep dive into the cuisine and
products of Córdoba. Head to a traditional taberna where the best regional dishes
are on the menu. Your guide on this journey will pair surprising local wines with
the plates, showing the richness of Córdoba’s cooking and the great potential of its
wines.
O/N Córdoba, B, L, D
October 14
Day 3 - Córdoba, Noor Restaurant & Sevilla
❖ CÓRDOBA MEZQUITA & PATIOS TOUR
❖ LUNCH AT 2 MICHELIN STAR NOOR RESTAURANT
❖ TO SEVILLA
Córdoba was once the most populous city in the world, the intellectual center of
Europe, and the capital of an Islamic caliphate. Your private walking tour of
Córdoba’s old city will include the 8th-century the grand mosque built when
Córdoba was the capital of Al-Andalus, the Moorish empire in Spain. After the
reconquest of the city by the Christians, the mosque was converted into a cathedral,
but the architecture of the original mosque was thankfully preserved. Walking
through the ornately decorated halls, you can feel the weight of Moorish history in
Córdoba. The Mezquita is one of Spain’s greatest surviving monuments from the
Moorish occupation.
Visit traditional flower-filled Córdoba patios which are recognized by Unesco as
Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The patios’ origins date back to the
Romans and many traditional cordobés houses have conserved them in a
traditional state. After the patios visit stop in at an Arabic tea house for a refreshing
glass of tea.
Enjoy lunch at two-Michelin star Noor Restaurant in Córdoba. Noor (noor means
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light in Arabic) is most of all a connection to the past. Hidden away from the center, this small restaurant works like a time machine back to the days of the Moorish occupation of Al-Andalus. Chef Paco Morales, a Córdoba native with experience at El Bulli and Mugaritz restaurants in Spain, brings the dishes that defined different historical periods of Córdoban and Andalusian cuisine into the present. Each “season” of the restaurant is dedicated to a different era. The unique flavors of these forgotten dishes, which fuse Spanish and Moorish influences and ingredients, are one of a kind. The service, atmosphere, and impeccable preparation combine with the unique concept to make Noor an essential visit for any curious food lover traveling to Spain. Sevilla Andalusia’s capital breathes vitality and energy: groups of people spilling out of bars and restaurants onto the streets, loud and passionate conversations and strains of flamenco floating out of windows, narrow streets and beautiful plazas stoked with orange trees ablaze in the southern sun. It’s a city of grand monuments, the riches of the Americas converted into churches and palaces and statues, but also of tiny atmospheric holes in the wall hidden away from time. To arrive in Sevilla from another Spanish city is to be transported immediately and powerfully into Andalusia. The feeling that accompanies that immersion is so strong that many find they never want to leave. Sevilla has three World Heritage Sites: the Cathedral (the largest Gothic temple in the world), the Real Alcázar (Moorish palace which features a stunning combination of Mudéjar and Baroque architectural styles) and the Santa Cruz Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 8
district (the former Jewish Quarter) with narrow streets, hidden patios and countless
quaint corners.
Check into your hotel in the heart of Sevilla’s old part. Gather at a traditional
restaurant in the historic center of Sevilla for dinner.
O/N Sevilla, B, L, D
October 15
Day 4 - Secret Sevilla, Flamenco & Tapas Tour Dinner
❖ SECRET SEVILLA TOUR
❖ FLAMENCO & TAPAS TOUR DINNER
Exploring the secret side of Sevilla takes you away from Sevilla’s impressive
monuments to discover the history and culture of the city that is hidden from public
view. Discover the architecture of one of the prettiest palaces in the city, where
private patios and gardens hide behind an unassuming entrance. You’ll have the
rare chance to step inside a cloistered convent with the nuns who live there. Sevilla
once had over 40 such convents; more than a dozen remain today, so it is not
uncommon to see nuns walking the streets of the city.
Lunch on your own. Tapas bars and restaurant recommendations given.
In the evening join Sevilla insiders for a journey through the tapas bars of Sevilla’s
old town. Tapas are part of the culinary landscape all over Spain, but nowhere do
they occupy such an important place as in Sevilla. Nearly every corner, street or
plaza is home to bustling places where people stand, lean, and occasionally sit
while washing down all sorts of small food on plates with glasses of ice cold
Cruzcampo beer or sherry from down the road in Jerez. You’ll visit a selection of
the best bars, where your guide will show you the best things to eat and drink at
each. From local cheese, ham, and charcuterie to fried fish and richly flavored
stews, tapas in Sevilla come in all shapes and sizes, washed down with whatever
drinks catch your eye, from beer or wine to sherry or vermouth. Tapas bars in
Sevilla are usually standing room only, but at the last bar we’ve reserved a table so
that you can sit, relax, and enjoy the delicacies in front of you. Tapas in Sevilla is an
essential experience and a guided crawl with a local is the best way to visit the
most interesting bars and try their specialties on a night out in Sevilla.
O/N Sevilla, B, D
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October 16
Day 5 - Royal Alcázar & Palo Cortado
❖ ALCÁZAR VISIT
❖ LUNCH AT PALO CORTAO RESTAURANT
❖ FREE DINNER IN SEVILLA
Next to Sevilla’s
imposing cathedral sits
the Alcázar, a fortified
palace that is one of
Spain’s greatest
examples of Mudéjar
architecture. The
Mudéjar style brings
together designs and
craftsmanship of Moors
who remained in Spain
after the reconquest, and
subsequent expulsion,
with Christian symbols
and architecture. The
courtyards and galleries
of the Alcázar are enchanting, strongly evoking the city’s Moorish past. The palace
was a residence of the kings of Spain, and they still travel to Sevilla from time to
time to occupy their rooms on the upper floor. Visit this amazing palace with a
private guide.
After visiting the Alcázar you may want to continue on to the surrounding Barrio de
Santa Cruz whose impossibly narrow streets hint at its past as the Jewish quarter. Or
head over to María Luisa park for an espresso in a little park café.
Lunch will be at Palo Cortao, a relaxed tapas restaurant where you’ll be able to
taste seasonal dishes that combine traditional Andalusian recipes with a touch of
innovation. Many of the options change daily based on what fresh products are
available, but expect classic tapas along with subtle preparations of vegetables, fish
and meat from Andalusia. The wine list highlights Sherry and Andalusian white and
red wines along with cult selections from other regions of Spain.
You’ll have a free afternoon in Sevilla, giving you time to explore on your own, visit
the Cathedral or simply rest up. We can make appointments at our favorite
hammam near the hotel with a fabulous rooftop pool.
Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 10Dinner on your own. Tapas bars and restaurant recommendations given. One place
we like is El Rinconcillo. Sevilla has no shortage of old-school tapas bars, but El
Rinconcillo has the longest and richest history of any of them. For more than three
centuries, this Sevilla institution has been serving tapas and drinks to locals and
visitors alike. The atmosphere and decoration take you back in time, whether it’s
the dark wooden bar, the pharmacy-style shelves lined with bottles, or the historic
tilework. You’ll find all sorts of traditional Sevilla dishes on the menu, from hand-
cut Iberian ham to salmorejo and stews with deep Andalusian flavor. Grab a spot at
the bar or a bar table and let one of the experienced waiters help you choose what
delicious tapas to get. Not to be missed is the extensive wine list, featuring
everyday and rare sherries by the glass alongside bottles of fine wines from around
Spain. Whether for a drink and a snack or a rambling feast, El Rinconcillo is an
essential stop in Sevilla’s old town.
O/N Sevilla, B, L
October 17
Day 6 - Aracena Mountains, Iberian Jamón &
Andalusian Countryside
❖ DAY IN ARACENA JAMÓN IBÉRICO REGION
❖ IBERIAN JAMÓN FARM VISIT & TASTING
❖ TRADITIONAL LUNCH IN ARACENA
❖ DINNER AT THE HACIENDA
Go to the source of the famous jamón ibérico (Iberian ham) on a day trip to the
Aracena mountains where the free-range pigs are raised and the Iberian ham and
related charcuterie products are cured. Your guide will pick you up for a full-day
Iberian ham tour. You will travel through the unique Holm oak-studded countryside
called dehesa, where the acorn-fed Iberian pigs are raised. The production of
Iberian ham, or jamón ibérico, is an example of the ultimate traditional,
sustainable, and low-impact agricultural system as the pigs graze on the plants and
in the fall, on the fallen acorns from the oaks. You and your guide will accompany a
local expert on a visit to a farm to see how the native pigs are reared, free range,
feeding on grasses, herbs and acorns. After sampling the mouth-watering ham at
the farm, continue on to the town of Aracena to enjoy a lunch that truly highlights
what “eating local” should be: savor the finest local ham, cheese, mushrooms,
pork, and produce.
Your home for the next three nights, Hacienda de San Rafael is the perfect bolthole
from which to explore western Andalusia, located between Sevilla and Jerez de la
Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 11Frontera. A sprawling hacienda, once dedicated to olive production, has been lovingly converted into a small hotel. Owned by the Mora-Figueroa family for generations, today it’s run by the British-Jerezano Reid Mora-Figueroa descendants. Staying at the hacienda is a bit like staying in their home, but with all the trappings you might expect from the world’s best hotels. The rooms are in the main house, while former farm buildings have been transformed into ultra-private casitas with their own pools. The decor shows impeccable taste and the family’s love of travel, with rarities from countries around the world. Whatever you need is available here. There is a private chef who cooks just for the guests, so you can relax in the dining room or by the pool as long as you like. Massages, cooking classes, horseback riding, or any other imaginable thing can be done at the hotel. This is a place you’ll want to stay for as long as you can, and as soon as you leave you’ll be planning when you can come back. During your stay you will take a day trip to the seafood and sherry town of Sanlúcar. Another day you will stay “in” and enjoy spreads of traditional Andalusian products like jamón ibérico, local goat and sheep milk cheeses, Iberian charcuterie from the black-hooved free-range Iberian pigs and the region’s innovative white wines, while watching Susan cook alongside a Spanish chef from Sanlúcar. The joy of Hacienda San Rafael is that you don’t feel forced to do anything besides enjoy the grounds, the well appointed house and the superb dinners. O/N Hacienda de San Rafael, B, L, D Sanlúcar de Barrameda Where the Guadalquivir River, once the trade waterway to the Spanish overseas Empire, empties into the Atlantic lies Sanlúcar de Barrameda, a surprising and enchanting food and wine destination and Spain’s Gastronomic Capital in 2022. Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 12
Forming one corner of the Sherry triangle, this riverfront town is best known in
Spain as the home of manzanilla sherry, light in color and body and perfect on hot
summer days with fresh seafood. And the seafood is very fresh here, coming straight
from the market in nearby Bonanza. The most iconic product of Sanlúcar is the
local langostino, boiled and served cold or grilled and served hot, to be peeled and
eaten with your hands. The busy tapas bars and inviting seafood restaurants in town
don’t limit themselves to langostinos, offering a spread of local fish and seafood
that’ll make you want to stay forever to try them all. The great food isn’t limited to
the sea. North of town the tradition of growing vegetables in sandy soil and
watering them with sea water lives on, producing delicious unique produce
including the star of many a local salad and stew, the Sanlúcar potato.
October 18
Day 7 - Sanlúcar Farm, Fish Market and Winery Lunch
❖ DAY IN SANLÚCAR
❖ FARM & FISH MARKET
❖ LANGOSTINOS & MANZANILLA WATERSIDE
❖ LUNCH IN LA GITANA WINERY
❖ SHERRY TASTING
❖ DINNER AT THE HACIENDA
Start your day in Sanlúcar with a visit to Cultivo Desterrado, the agricultural project
of Sanlúcar native and globetrotting designer Rafael Monge, who has demonstrated
the potential of Sanlúcar’s traditional navazos for growing exceptional vegetables.
These waterfront plots have been used for generations to grow potatoes and peas,
but Monge has expanded the saltwater and sand farming to exotic produce and
taken traditional products to the highest level. Today he grows unique produce for
some of the most legendary chefs in Cádiz and other parts of Spain.
After visiting Monge, head to nearby Bonanza, home to Sanlúcar’s fishing port and
fish market. Here, you’ll have the chance to see the wealth of fresh products that
make Sanlúcar such a special fish and seafood destination. Bonanza’s fish market
routinely sells over a hundred species, but it’s certainly most famous for the
quantity and quality of Sanlúcar langostinos that are on sale there.
Warm your taste buds up with langostinos and Manzanilla by the beach. The star
product of Sanlúcar’s cuisine has to be the local langostino, and the beachfront
district of Bajo de Guía is the place to eat it. A line of restaurants here with
sprawling outdoor terraces and views of the beach, river, and Doñana Natural Park
serve up some of Sanlúcar’s best seafood. We’re here for the most popular
combination in town: a plate of langostinos and a glass of cold manzanilla sherry.
Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 13Sanlúcar manzanilla paired with the freshly caught langostinos comes dangerously close to a perfect food experience. You will have lunch inside Bodegas Hidalgo, known by the name of its most famous contribution to the world of sherry: La Gitana, one of the most popular manzanillas in the world. This beautiful winery has been owned by the Hidalgo family since 1792, making it one of the oldest in the sherry triangle. Unsurprisingly, manzanilla is the main product. La Gitana is a very fresh, saline, and highly enjoyable manzanilla with an average age of 5-6 years. La Gitana En Rama is bottled unfiltered from a selection of casks aged for 8 years, while Pastrana is a single-vineyard manzanilla pasada with around 12 years aging. Beyond manzanilla, there is amontillado, oloroso, palo cortado, and Pedro Ximénez, each in a “young” version and a VORS version with at least 30 years average age. This is one of Sanlúcar’s most classic bodegas, where you can see what makes manzanilla wineries so special. After lunch, a member of the winery will give you the chance to try some of the winery’s rarest sherries straight from the barrel. These old wines, whether dry or sweet, are the perfect after meal drink to enjoy as you revel in the historic atmosphere of this historic winery building. O/N Hacienda de San Rafael, B, L, D Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 14
October 19
Day 8 - Cooking, Eating & Wine Tasting at Hacienda
de San Rafael
❖ COOKING WITH CHEF JOSÉ LUIS TALLAFIGO & SUSAN SPICER AT THE
HACIENDA
❖ LOCAL PRODUCTS & WINE TASTING
Susan will be cooking alongside Sanlúcar’s star chef José Luis Tallafigo, whose
restaurant El Espejo has been critical to spreading appreciation for market cuisine
in Sanlucar.
Today we’ll take full advantage of the space and atmosphere of Hacienda San
Rafael with a day of cooking, tasting and celebration. Chef José Luis Tallafigo will
join you at the hacienda to cook some of the specialties of his native Sanlúcar de
Barrameda alongside Susan. Meanwhile, you’ll have the chance to taste and learn
about some of the finest products from Andalusia–local goat and sheep’s milk
cheeses, olive oil, Iberian ham and charcuterie– along with local wine or sherry.
We’ll bring over some of our favorite bottles from the small producers of the
province so that you can enjoy them and try pairing them with different flavors.
Enjoy the food that José Luis and Susan will prepare in one of the hotel’s numerous
enchanting spaces, whether a light-filled dining room decorated with antiques or al
fresco on one of the patios. In true Spanish fashion, you’ll be able to extend your
meal deep into the afternoon, with good food, drink, and conversation powering a
great day in a relaxing spot.
O/N Hacienda de San Rafael, B, L, D
Jerez de la Frontera
The inland city of coastal Cádiz province, Jerez de la Frontera is pure Andalusia,
the land of sherry and flamenco and horses and bullfights. The old town mixes
quiet streets and scenic plazas with bustling tapas bars and sunny restaurant
terraces. Jerez feels like a small version of Sevilla as it once was, relaxed and
energetic, traditional and inspired. The sherry houses, cavernous wine warehouses
in the center of town, are full of shadows and history and old barrels each
containing a surprising liquid jewel. To walk through one and taste straight from the
barrel is one of the world’s essential wine experiences. The cuisine of Jerez is a
wonderfully eclectic mixture of coastal and mountain influences. The city’s
proximity to the coast brings access to the best seafood from the ports of the
province, while its inland location ensures a healthy dedication to meat, game, and
hearty vegetable dishes. Jerez is one of the main centers of flamenco in Spain and
Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 15has a large gypsy population. You can see amazing performances at the traditional
tabancos here, but the music is also alive in the city and you can easily hear locals
singing as they walk down the street. The historic buildings of the center help
complete Jerez’s atmospheric feel. This is one of Andalusia’s hidden wonders, an
enchanting bolthole for the discerning traveler.
Jerez is known above all of course for sherry–that distinctive Andalusian wine that
ranges from bone dry finos and manzanillas to aged amontillados and olorosos to
sweet wines. Sherry is the iconic wine of the Spanish south and Jerez de la Frontera
is its home. The majesty of sherry becomes visible inside the bodegas of the center
of Jerez. Row upon row of ancient barrels filled with everything from young fino to
100-year-old amontillado or brandy. These cavernous cellars, with high ceilings and
upper windows for ventilation, are built to keep the wine cool in the torrid Jerez
summers. Walking from one room to the next through patios covered in grapevines
and decoreated with hand-painted tiles is a journey back in time.
October 20
Day 9 - Cádiz & Jerez de la Frontera
❖ DAY IN CÁDIZ
❖ CÁDIZ TOUR, MARKET VISIT AND TRADITIONAL TAVERNS LUNCH
❖ TO JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA
Head to the coastal city of Cádiz, thrust out into the Atlantic and surrounded by
water on three sides, where you’ll tour the old town and discover the best of the
city’s food and wine secrets. The old town was largely rebuilt in the 18th century
after the Lisbon earthquake, creating a city full of pastel colored buildings and
atmospheric plazas that has stood in for Havana in films. At any moment you might
walk down a narrow street and come upon the vastness of the ocean. Learn about
the city’s history and see some of its monuments before beginning your food and
wine exploration. Visit the market, where an incredible selection of local products
coexist with a ring of tapas bars serving drinks and snacks. Then, it’s on to a unique
bar where Manzanilla sherry ages in huge barrels behind the bar and decor of old
bottles and bullfighting posters that will transport you back in time. Enjoy a small
glass and a few stuffed olives here before starting an ultramarinos tour.
Ultramarinos are a type of tapas bar popular in Cádiz where drinks wash down
gourmet cold tapas of charcuterie, cheese, and cured fish. These bars evolved from
dry goods stores of the same name, and remain the most popular aperitif spots in
the city. You’ll have the chance to try a selection of great regional products at our
favorite ultramarinos.
Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 16Drive the short distance to Jerez de la Frontera, the Andalusian capital of sherry. Dinner on your own. We will recommend restaurants and tapas bars in the old town. After dinner you may want to head out into the Jerez night to discover the traditional and exhilarating sherry bars known as tabancos. These uniquely Jerezano establishments serve sherry wine straight from barrels behind the bar, and will usually fill bottles to drink at a table or take home with you. Some stick to the tradition of serving only sherry accompanied by cold tapas like cheese, Iberian ham, and small sandwiches, while others have added cooked tapas. Expect dark wooden bars and tables marked by decades of happy customers, tile floors, and decoration consisting mainly of bullfighting posters and old photos. If you’re lucky, you’ll come across some flamenco being performed. Jerezanos love their tabancos, filling them every noon and night. O/N Jerez, B, L Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 17
October 21
Day 10 - Jerez de la Frontera
❖ WALKING TOUR IN THE OLD TOWN & MARKET VISIT
❖ SHERRY WINERY VISIT & TASTING
❖ TRADITIONAL PAELLA-STYLE RICE LUNCH
❖ FAREWELL WINE PAIRING DINNER AT LA CARBONÁ
Start your day off with a walking tour of the historic city center and a visit to the
impressive market filled with local produce, meats and charcuterie and, surprising
for inland Jerez, glorious piles of fresh Atlantic seafood.
Every wine enthusiast should visit Jerez for an experience tasting biological and
oxidative aged wines. Surprisingly, nearly all sherry wineries are in town, which
means that exploring the undiscovered jewel that is Jerez, tasting sherry and pairing
sherries with your lunch will keep you eye-level with the locals. Visit a family-
owned bodega in central Jerez making some of the finest sherries available today
with a member of the family. Your masterclass will begin with biologically aged
sherry, where a vertical tasting of finos straight from the barrel will give you a
fascinating portrait of fino sherry’s aging process. After tasting the finos move to the
tiny painted tables in the picturesque patio to learn about what happens to sherry
as it ages and oxidizes. Amontillado, oloroso, palo cortado–you will know what
those words mean, and how they taste, after this immersion.
Head to a hole in the wall restaurant in the center of Jerez for lunch. This family-run
spot serves excellent traditional Jerez cuisine alongside two legendary specialties.
The first is Iberian pork grilled whole and sliced at the table. The second is
authentic paella cooked in the patio of the restaurant in a single enormous pan. The
owner and rice master learned
firsthand from paella experts
in Valencia. You can watch the
rice being prepared from the
bar and tables. Relax in the
covered patio dining room
with great food and friendly
service.
Jerez de la Frontera has
become one of southern
Spain’s most interesting
destinations for fine dining,
boasting two Michelin star
restaurants and a constellation
Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 18of innovative places in one small city. La Carboná is a fascinating option, headed
by Javi Muñoz, known as the “sherry chef” for his extensive use of local wine in
pairings as well as the dishes themselves. The restaurant is housed in an impeccably
restored old sherry bodega, with high ceilings and an airy atmosphere. The cuisine,
whether a la carte or tasting menu, has its roots in the traditions and ingredients of
the region, including specialties such as bluefin tuna, Iberian pork, local seasonal
seafood, and, of course, sherry. But the preparation and presentation is innovative
and elegant, a fine dining experience that channels the best of Jerez. The wine list is
dominated by over one hundred sherries available by the glass, from delicious fino
sourced straight from local wineries to rare old gems. La Carboná is one of the best
places anywhere to discover why sherry is such an exciting match for food. Prepare
for a true master class for your farewell dinner!
O/N Jerez, B, L, D
October 22
Day 11 - Departure
Transfer to the Sevilla airport or train station for departure.
Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 19Hotels Madrid Westin Palace Hotel Córdoba Palacio del Bailío Sevilla Hotel Corral del Rey Andalusian Countryside Hacienda San Rafael Jerez Casa Palacio María Luisa Andalusia Tour Includes •hosted by Chef Susan Spicer •expert private guides & local specialists •10 nights in 5-star and luxury boutique lodgings, double occupancy •breakfast daily •8 lunches and 8 dinners with wine •private guided tapas and tabancos routes •all food and wine / soft drinks / beer on tapas and tabancos routes •premium tastings at wineries •guided wine tastings and wine-pairing meals •private cultural tours in Madrid, Córdoba, Sevilla, Jerez, Cádiz •luggage porterage at hotels •deluxe air-conditioned private transport •high-speed train Madrid to Córdoba •transfer to Sevilla airport or train station at end of trip • Epicurean Ways expertise • in-country support Tour Does Not Include •extras in hotels such as room service, minibars, etc. •travel insurance •tips to guides and drivers (not required but appreciated) •flights to and from Spain Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 20
•Madrid airport transfer •luggage porterage at Madrid and Córdoba train stations Price $9950 per person, double occupancy $2400 Single supplement Tour prices given are per person and based on double occupancy. A single supplement fee will apply for one person occupying a room. If a group tour participant would like to share a double room with another tour participant, Epicurean Ways will try to accommodate the request, but cannot guarantee its availability. Notes All tours, experiences and hotels are subject to availability and will be confirmed upon booking the trip. Epicurean Ways reserves the right to cancel, alter, or modify a trip prior to departure for any reason, at any time before departure, including insufficient participant reservations. Epicurean Ways and its suppliers reserve the right to substitute hotels, restaurants, routes or other services listed in the itinerary with comparable services if necessary. Chef Susan Spicer is the founder of Bayona and Rosedale Restaurants in New Orleans, and author of Crescent City Cooking: Unforgettable Recipes from Susan Spicer’s New Orleans. She has received double awards from the James Beard Foundation: Best Chef: Southeast and the Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America. Operated by Epicurean Ways Epicurean Ways is a specialist in food and wine tours in Spain and Portugal with more than 14 years of experience. Reserve your spot with Epicurean Ways info@epicureanways.com 434-738-2293 epicureanways.com Epicurean Ways 434-738-2293 www.epicureanways.com 21
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