Class of 2019/20 London College of Fashion - BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism - AWS
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BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism London College of Fashion Class of 2019/20 the edit 1
the edit
class of 2019/2020
Northern identity, black-owned brands, ethical Ridley Road Market Bar by Niamh Rooney .....................4
fashion gamechangers, female tattoo artists, punk
Eastenders superfans by Kate Fowler .....................6
sex, catwalk designers, life behind the scenes for drag
artists, the complex intersection between Islam and Manny girls by Paul Toner .....................8
feminism, what it’s like to design for Rihanna, Barbie’s Black-owned hair shops by Shanai Charlton-Taylor .....................10
feminist credentials and why Eastenders fans on
Amenah Al-khazraji Ben Littlewood Twitter really are a genuine subculture. Islam, feminism and stereotypes by Amenah Al-khazraji .....................12
Harry Archer Josefina Martin Xiao Mei Mei, a Singapore obsession by Bernice Ng .....................14
Lisa Arslanian Lydia McKay Just a snapshot into the topics printed here, and that Sustainable fashion’s new shape by Majken Hansen .....................16
Dominique Bennett Helena Moran have been addressed with such nuance, integrity,
Zoe Bennetts Holly Nelson sparkle and skill by BA Fashion Journalism’s class of Designing for Rihanna by Torey Cassidy .....................18
Alex Blunt Bernice Ng 2019/20 at London College of Fashion. Is Barbie feminist? By Holly Bullock .....................20
Millen-Louisa Brown-Ewens Rebecca Richter The man behind Recess by Lara Soluade .....................22
Holly Bullock Niamh Rooney Each of these stories was written as part of a
multiplatform journalism project for the students’ Modest fashion uncovered by Leya Shah .....................24
Gwendalin Burke Leya Shah
Torey Cassidy Lisa Sheppard final unit, with outcomes including print-style Surf’s up for the modest seasuit by Anastasiya Kokhanchuk .....................26
Shanai Charlton-Taylor Emma Siddall magazines, websites, podcasts, video channels and
Fashion’s digital archive problem by Grace Warn .....................28
freelance portfolios. These were created in the
Kris Edomioya Lara Soluade Podcast star Christina Wolfgram by Lisa Sheppard .....................30
face of unprecedented challenges, with students
Talya Erel Alice Stenson
navigating the Covid-19 pandemic and its subsequent Life’s a drag by Dominique Bennett .....................32
Kate Fowler Hannah Thompson lockdown with astounding flexibility and resolve. This
Rana Hamade Paul Toner The theatre podcast you need by Harry Archer .....................35
publication stands as small testament to their efforts.
Majken Hansen Grace Warn Female tattoo talent by Hannah Thompson .....................37
Daisy Haywood Katy Widdup The diversity of topics they researched, and the Crafting the female nude by Millen-Louisa Brown-Ewens ....................40
Halle Joseph Krystal Williams insight with which they reported them, is both
Clare Brownlow, boho bumpkin by Holly Nelson .....................43
Anastasiya Kokhanchuk Charlotte Woodall astonishing and intriguing. This serves to remind us
Snaih Kumari that fashion is – of course – more than the clothes we Fashioning from farmwear by Katy Widdup ....................44
wear. It is the way we live, what we think and how we Mary Katrantzou talks, by Helena Moran ....................48
feel.
God save the sex by Alice Stenson .....................50
These stories remind us, also, that fashion media Joy in neutral emotions by Rebecca Richter ....................52
must respond responsibly to the complexity of social How Petra calmed me by Gwendalin Burke .....................54
currents and help us not only to understand our
Rethinking New Balance by Kris Edomioya .....................55
industry better, but show us how to improve it too.
England footballer Leah Williamson by Zoe Bennetts .....................56
Because in the end, as the student work featured in Brand loyalty in football by Josefina Martin .....................58
these pages makes clear, it is through the stories that
Why is no one hiring me? By Daisy Haywood ....................60
we tell that we understand not just our world, but our
place in it too. South Asian Insta inspo by Snaih Kumari .....................62
Liz Miller, lecturer in fashion journalism
Stephen Spear, acting course leader
Josephine Collins, acting programme director
The Edit is produced by the students of the BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism degree at the London College of Fashion.
Disclaimer:
The Edit is a not-for-profit student publication. Any claims or views expressed do not represent the views of the UAL, its staff or management.
Cover image by Photographer Jessica Portillo, see pg.16-17
Design by Steph Hargreaves, Specialist Digital Media Technician, LCF
2 3
Ridley Road Market Bar
Which five words do regulars choose to describe Dalston’s best night out?
Words by Niamh Rooney
Falling out of London’s Dalston Kingsland Station on a Thursday
night you hear the calling thud for all local disco dancers. Once “Sweaty, passion fruit
you swim through the lingering fishy whiff of the market day, a
rainbow blur ahead rounds up the regulars and those who have
travelled from afar – aka West London.
mojitos, Kuntessa”
- Paul Toner
Met with a red carpet and bouncer Felicia, Ridley Road Market
Bar is London’s worst kept secret. To avoid queues and allow for
ultimate limb throwing, Thursday has become the new Friday –
especially with slushie-cocktails, Red Stripes and tequila shots at
double-take worthy prices. “Really cheap gin and
Once through the swinging entry doors, the black and white tonic” - Molly Mayo
chequered vinyl opens up into the dance floor. A weekly rotating Paul Toner. image by Imogen Chandulal Frankie Tyler. Image by Imogen Chandulal
disc jockey schedule keeps things fresh and gives an excuse for it to
become a regular spot. With free entry, no guest list and a cash-free
bar, Ridley is the ultimate destination for a spontaneous boogie.
“Gin blood orange “Fave place for a boogie”
It seems pretty mean to be taunting you with your new favourite - Frankie Tyler
bar during a lockdown. Still, our favourite photographer and Ridley
regular Imogen Chandulal took her film camera to one of their final equals perfection”
nights before quarantine and captured the magic for you.
- Daniel McCarthy
The emerging photographer and soon-to-be CSM graduate
describes the standout night: “One of my favourite things about
Ridley Road is the major outfits that come with it. I remember
that night Bailey leapt into the bar with candy floss pink hair
and my favourite Palace jacket. There were lots of berets, and
everyone just looked divine (although it’s hard not to with the
“Unorthodox dance
sexy chequered floor under you).” The 22-year-old continues:
“My all-time favourite DJ, and now friend, Kat matched her tunes
moves and gin”
with some bejewelled Juicy Couture velour joggers which I feel - Emily Smith
embodies her DJ sets perfectly,” she says.
“While there are always people who go a bit over the top with
their outfit choices (mainly me), the effortless look is always
present; I guess it is typical of the area. The people who come
to Ridley make it what is, being one of the reasons I love taking
“Cinematic Tarantino
pictures there so much. Everyone has so much character, and you
can always see this in how they dress, loud and proud.”
sensual dance
After tracking down some of the featured faces in Chandulal’s epilogue”
photos, we asked them to each describe the market bar in five - Kundai Munetsi
words, a tough job but one they all nailed...
DJ Kuntessa. Image by Imogen Chandulal Kundai Munetsi. Image by Imogen Chandulal
Chandulal has just launched her first zine Unchain with Issue 2 coming soon, keep
your eyes peeled on her Instagram!
4 5
The Eastenders superfans who made
Sharon a Twitter celebrity “James Cordon once retweeted Sharon
Soap + social media = authentic subculture? is having a glass of Savvy B today”
Words by Kate Fowler
If subcultures are dead then how do you explain EastEnders It’s weird the picture that you imagine.” He loves Sharon so much episode’ after the Christmas episode.” But it’s no guilt, all pleasure back while bored at home for
Twitter? Their funny takes on the show gave us memes like, “the actually, he has a mask with her on. Yes, as in a coronavirus mask for @SW who tweets Eastenders reaction videos and pictures. Christmas.
bubbly’s in the fridge,” with even the non-watchers cracking up. We with an image of Sharon on. “I feel bad because I’m probably not His first viral tweet was none other than Kat ‘I became a total slag’
spoke to some of the biggest accounts in the Albert Square-based gonna wear it outside because I don’t wanna get lynched.” Oh, and a Slater growling, “lucky you’re still breathing,” while the tweet read “The descriptions started
Twittersphere on Sharon merchandise, meeting their Walford icons, t-shirt with her in a Santa hat on too, casually. ‘10 year old me when I found out someone smoked’. “It got a load very simple: ‘Sharon is worried today’ was the first one. They’ve
and the art of being blocked. of likes, it was my highest for a while.” That out of context video grown a little since then and now they’re usually me reading into
Unfortunately for the elusive @SP who prefers to stay anonymous, racked up 53,000 likes, which @SW says is down to the famous faces what Sharon is doing or completely lying.” Accompanying hashtags
he’s never met the cast, but he’s come close. Well, kind of. “Me and they feature: “Even if you don’t watch Eastenders you know who range from #JustRecievedaNudeFromPhilInPortugal to#LookedIn
Natalie Cassidy, who plays Sonia, live in the same town, and I have Phil Mitchell and people like that are so I just think they’re quite TheMirrorAndIsRightfullyInDisbeliefThatShes50YearsOld as he
followed her around Marks and Spencer more times than I could recognisable people.” attempts to summarise Sharon’s antics into one tweet per episode.
care to admit. I was actually shook on the whole experience. She “I usually have to choose between two or three amazing shots. It’s
likes picking up ham – the nice, expensive deli one.” But he’s never Predictably, it’s OG Sharon who’s his favourite soap star, thanks to annoying if she does more than one great thing.”
tweeted too much about that because he doesn’t want her to block her over the top ridiculousness. “It just makes me laugh the fact By “great thing” he means her knee high five inch heels or dramatic
him. she’s always marching about in stilettos,” he says as he pinpoints facial expressions. ”She’d be just as at home in Dallas or Dynasty
the episode when her first reaction to Phil being in hospital was as Walford. She’s just absolutely ridiculous.” Plus, she’s been in the
She wouldn’t be the first one though. Cheryl Ferguson who played putting on her heels: “It really cracked me up that she ran to the show since ‘85 so everyone knows who she is. Meaning you can still
Heather has long had him on her block list. “I think she thinks I’m door, and you’d think ‘oh my god I need to put on trainers’ and she DM your mates the tweets even if you haven’t watched the show
some kind of piss take account because she’s friends with Shirley in just put on six-inch-high heels and went off to the hospital.” since Bradley fell off the roof that time.
real life.” The anti @SP tirade isn’t just a one woman show either:
“I actually have been blocked by Wikipedia too because I changed “I’d love it,” says @SW after imagining a day with the blonde Sharon might be his leading lady on Twitter, but soap icon Pat
Shirley’s age to nine, which is quite sad,” he tells me after joking bombshell. A trip around Waitrose and then onto a bar to “get Butcher is in fact his favourite. Her or Janine, he says. “I have
that 60 year old Shirley looks “about 22 years old”. paralytic with her,” is what he has in mind. “I’d be intrigued to see actually met Pam St Clement [who plays Pat] and I got a picture
what she’s like just interacting with people.” with her which is very rare in the TV world, but I wasn’t meeting
Admitting that he “rips them off YouTube”, @SP’s tweets are Pat Butcher and not getting a pic!” Having never met Letitia Dean,
on the pulse. If something’s happened in pop culture, he’s used Unlike @shirleypussy, @SW hasn’t been blocked by anyone… yet. Jake predicts it will happen. And when it does, he’s going incognito,
an EastEnders video to react to it. Within ten minutes. Five In fact, he counts classic Eastenders actress and all round tabloid as he’s heard she knows about the account. “I wouldn’t want
times. It’s his elaborate tweets (he encouraged his followers to icon Daniella Westbrook as one of his followers, and she often DMs her to think I’m some sort of mad fan.” Now why would tweeting
#clapforYasmeen from Corrie and made a thread of ‘Why Shirley him about his tweets. “I think she’s flattered that people still care #ModellingForTheNewSharonBlowUpDoll have anyone thinking that?
Carter is the British Lady Gaga’) that have us in stitches, and other about her,” he says. “There is so much stuff about her that I could
people questioning if he’s serious. For the record, he’s not. He never tweet cause I just find it so funny but I feel like she’d get offended so The algorithm for a successful tweet? He has no idea. “Sometimes
is. @SP wrote to the actress of Shirley last year to explain that it’s I don’t do it.” I’m so pleased with myself for making a great joke and it barely
all in jest. He failed miserably and she didn’t reply. “I don’t think scrapes 100 likes. Other times I feel bad because I’ve just said the
@ShirleyPussy (current follower count: 15k) she’s here for it.” Other than seeing a freshly fired ex-EastEnders actor Dean Gaffney first thing that came to mind and then it gets loads of likes and
on a flight to Ibiza (“I don’t think he was in the mood for talking”), retweets.” But he’s obviously doing something right. James Cordon
“I think with EastEnders out of all the soaps, that’s the one that His favourite EastEnders storyline? Obviously, it’s Denise’s the closest he’s been to meeting the cast was when he attempted once retweeted a ,“Sharon is having a glass of Savvy B today,” tweet,
you wouldn’t be embarrassed to say you watched, and I don’t know educational journey. “For about a month we had her eating out of a to break into the set. It didn’t work and his dream to, “see Sharon which he says gained him more followers. If it’s good enough for
why that is,” says Twitter user @shirleypussy (SP) who started bin and then she did her GCSEs, but then I watched the clips back and Shirley and be best friends with them,” was crushed when faced Cordon, its good enough for us.
tweeting about his favourite soap back in 2017. It was the perfect and I realised how iconic that was. I was editing her getting the with only the flat backs of the set houses and roof of the Queen Vic.
storm of Lady Di, EastEnders character Shirley Carter, and wit exam results the other week and added the piano theme to it [for a As far as favourite moments go, Jake’s undecided. It’s a toss-up
that propelled his account when he tweeted the “last photos of Twitter video] I actually started getting emotional which was a bit On the recent growth of Eastenders twitter he cites converted between two. One is when Peggy confronted Pat and Frank Butcher
Princess Diana”, which, when opened, are actually Shirley leaving worrying.” Coronation Street fans when its producer moved shows. “I think over their affair: “Those slaps. I’ve watched it so many times that
a magistrates court. “That got like 20,000 likes or something,” he quite a lot of them tried to copy me as well,” he adds. I’ve noticed Pat’s earring flies off, then reappears again, then is gone
remembers. again. It’s fantastic.” The other is when Sharon had cream thrown
@sharon_weave (current follower count: 14k) @HowIsSharon (current follower count: 8k) at her after getting messy drunk at a dinner party and revealing to
Although his Twitter handle would have you thinking this Hunter that Phil killed his dad: “Sharon is demented in that whole
Eastenders obsessive loves Shirley and her muff the most, it’s @sharon_weave (SW) has been an Eastenders fan since he was “People think it’s a waste of time, which I just don’t understand. episode and I love it.”
actually the character Sharon, played by Letitia Dean, who owns around five years old and saw the Stella and Ben Mitchell storyline. It’s as time wasting as watching anything on Netflix. But with
his heart. His dream day with her? “I kind of pictured what we’d He became obsessed with Stella before she famously fell to her more history, heart and comfort than any box set,” protests @ “What a woman,” he says.
do. I just feel that it would be down London, West End, I feel a bit death on her wedding day. “I think it’s a guilty pleasure. Everyone HowIsSharon about Eastenders. Jake Albion tweets half accurate
6 like she’d be obsessed with cocktail bars. I don’t know why. loves to slag it off but they do love to be like ‘that was a good nightly updates on Sharon, after he started the account three years 7
0161, Manny Girls on the Map
Manchester Girls is the 100 page, “fucking mint” photobook dedicated to the glamazons
of the North, and we’re not talking about the Gallagher brothers. Photographer Dean
Davies explains his love for the beauty queens of 0161.
Words by Paul Toner
“
Being a Scouser myself, there’s meant the Wirral. If I was in my adolescence, fled the North, along with its gloriously
to be an underlying feud between I’d probably call him a wooly back; cheap pints and abundance of friendly
Liverpool and Manchester. I guess it a plastic Scouser born on the wrong characters, to surround ourselves
comes down to a few fellas booting a
ball around for 90 minutes. But the
side of the river Mersey. This is the
sort of nonsense that operates on the
with a bunch of smelly southerners at
university. Davies landed on Bristol, The girls can be seen dolled-up in
whole thing is a load of bollocks really, playground in Liverpool, only fading graduating from University of the
like when your mum told you turning
the overhead lights on in the car was
into a distant memory once you grow
old enough to realise in the North West,
West of England in 2013 with first-
class honours from degree in fashion
shiny going-out dresses, armoured in
illegal. we’re all rather similar. communication.
velour tracksuits and patrolling the
”
If I were to abide by such childish “I just want to say it’s nice to hear “I picked Bristol because it was four
feuds, my conversation with Dean
Davies would be a rather awkward
one at that. He’s from Birkenhead on
the accent,” mutters a voice not too
dissimilar to my own. The feeling is
mutual. Both me and Davies have each
hours away,” he explains. “But when
I was creating work in Bristol as a streets in leopard print slippers
student, I realised it was me constantly
looking for home in a way.” Seven years
later and he’s back at UWE. Now the
30-year-old is a senior lecturer on the
course he graduated from less than
a decade ago. In between teaching, you that. “Manchester women are very have done a dead good job in capturing someone recommended this place where
Davies’ docu-style photography has inspiring to me in so many different ways, the complete wardrobe of these girls. she lived called Whitchurch and I went
graced the pages of Dazed and Chaos’ but ultimately they’re who I relate to, and The authenticity of the project is there and it looked exactly like where
Disney-themed publication. He has also the style as well,” Davies explains. fuelled through fantasy, a much more I shot Manchester Girls,” he explains.
shot campaigns for brands like Levi’s creative approach opposed to simply This time, Davies will be leaning more
and House of Holland. “If you’re doing The aptly titled photo project was mostly appropriating Mancunian styles of today. towards the fictional side – basing
personal projects that you’re interested shot in the Greater Manchester towns “For me, that’s quite interesting, playing characters on everyone from the
in, brands will come to you and want Dukinfield and Hyde; insulated with cul with the fine line between reality and Swagger Jagger herself Cher Lloyd to
to be involved in it,” he says. “Like the de sac housing, stretches of grass and fiction,” he says. “And trying to get that the Beyoncé and Jay-Z of Waterloo Road:
House of Holland shoot for example, we the occasional Corrie red brick. Olschak balance between the two right.” The pair Donte and Chlo. It doesn’t get more
essentially did everything, they just grew up in Dukinfield, with Davies’ own raised over £6000 through a Kickstarter authentically British than that.
sent me the clothes. It’s great when that connection to the area being ignited by to fund the production of the book, which
happens, to have people put that sort of the housing’s similar architecture to the sold out at the beginning of May – less The dichotomy between the real and
trust in you.” estates he walked past in his schooling than a month after its release. the fake is what makes Davies’ work
days. “For me it was just the area and so brilliant. He follows in the footsteps
Although each of Davies’ projects the people there as well that made me What do his own students think of the of a large heritage of Northern
are rooted in a sense of home and want to shoot there. That’s what made me project? “They’re probably fed up of me photographers, from the likes of Tom
familiarity for the image-maker himself, keep going back.” He even photographed talking about it now,” he laughs. A lot Wood to Rob Bremner, who are masters
Manchester Girls is his most personal commissioned work in the area as well: “I of Davies’ students are rather involved in creating realities within one simple
accomplishment today. Work on the kind of exhausted it really,” he jokes. in his work, whether it be assisting on snapshot. We know nothing about these
photobook kicked off in 2017, teaming up shoots or helping at the production Manchester Girls, yet through the lens
with Mancunian born-and-bred stylist “As a fashion image maker, I think that stage. “I think it’s important to get that of Davies, their stories are limitless.
Vicky Olschak to craft a full body of styling is so important, especially when feel for a proper working environment
work that walks the fine line between you’re building up characters,” says when you’re a student. Like those first
fact and fantasy. “I really wanted to Davies. It was integral for the pair to hit moments getting to work with a proper
represent more of the North West the Northern lass look spot on, pulling camera and stuff it can be magical,” he
and capture different kinds of women most of the clothes from Olschak’s own says. “They appreciate the honesty. This
because I’ve been mostly photographing wardrobe. Blending a taste for the styles idea of things being ‘real’ I see in a lot of
Birkenhead and Merseyside,” he says. of yesteryear with a distinct flavour for the student’s work as well.”
the now, the girls can be seen dolled-up
Mancunian girls, there’s nothing quite in shiny going-out dresses, armoured Davies has plans on taking the project
like them. They’re known to brave in velour tracksuits and patrolling the closer to his home away from home.
Saturday night sub-zero temperatures streets in leopard print slippers. They Moving again to Bristol after a stint
in nothing but a mini-dress and a pair wear Manchester United footy kits, shell- back in Birkenhead (Or “Birk-haven”
of strappy heels. They’re bona fide suit jackets and “bride to be” headbands, as Davies jokingly calls it), opened
piss-takers, vodka-Red Bull drinkers all whilst latched onto crinkled handbags the photographer’s eyes to the real
whose loudness, sometimes borderline that are most probably hand-me-downs beauty of the city – no longer blinded
brashness, is infectious in all senses from their mums. by the pubs, clubs and whatever else
of the word. They’re ballsier than any distracted him as a student. “When
bloke with an Oyster card, I’ll tell It’s fair to say the Davies and Olschak I moved back and started shooting
Image by Dean Davies
8 9
Where are the black owned hair shops in 2020?
That goes for brands as well as shops
Words by Shanai Charlton-Taylor
Afro hair shops are a big part of black culture, but why don’t we supporting black owned businesses, acknowledging the issue is not
own any of them? The lack of black-owned hair shops has always enough, conversing about the issue is not enough.
been an issue and as UK non-essential businesses are brought to a
close during the Covid-19 pandemic, there has never been more of a There are black-owned businesses and brands in the UK with black
need to support black owned hair businesses and the black women women like three time winner for best Afro hairdresser, Charlotte
behind them. Mensah at the helm, black women who know the difference between
your 4c coils to her 3b curls and brands like Big Hair + Beauty who
Black owned. It’s an issue that’s long been discussed among black came to be out of frustration to the lack of transparency around
women. After all, it would be difficult not to have noticed the chemical filled ingredients in afro hair products.
absence of black ownership in one of our most frequented spaces –
the Afro hair shop. “You can really see the difference when you use natural minimal
ingredient products,” says Lemeiss Kidd, founder of Junoesque hair.
On many high roads, there’s an Afro hair shop on practically every Pro-fro campaigner and founder of the @happyfroday on Instagram,
corner. Yet the common assumption is that black women own none Nia Pettitt says, “Them not having Afro hair means I have to do the
of them. The black hair industry in the UK is worth an estimated research, I have to have the product knowledge or risk being told to
£88 million, (according to a 2007 forecast by Mintel) and black ‘use this’ off of a guess.”
women spend six times more on hair care than white women do,
according to research from Nielsen – but we’re almost never on the Supporting black-owned hair brands isn’t about closing off to local
profiting end of the transaction. Instead, South Asian men have Afro hair shops, but it is about taking responsibility as a person
dominated the black hair and beauty markets for decades. But how of colour to understand the importance of supporting black owned
and why have we remained so consistently underrepresented in an businesses. It is about more than profit, it’s about closing the racial
industry where we spend so much of our money? wealth gap and strengthening local communities. It’s about the job
opportunities that will present themselves – black owned small
We as black women and men are always up to discuss the absence businesses are likely to hire from the local community and will for
of black ownership but don’t take the issue further than the sure select from our own.
mutters and cusses amongst ourselves. We have a reliance on the
local Afro hair shop – that much is certain, and the closure of all “Black female business owners creating a platform is so mentally
UK non-essential hair businesses due to Coronavirus, has for sure important and adds to the discussion about visibility and
underlined this. accessibility,” says Flora + Curl founder, Rose Ovensehi.
It’s the same with brands. Again, lockdown has highlighted this. The We have a responsibility as black women, as black men, to make
understanding of why we don’t support black-owned hair brands had a change to an industry that should inherently belong to us. Even
always come down to convenience – the high road Afro hair shop is more so in this time of vulnerability do we need to support our own.
usually local and lower in price, after all.
But since the closure of non-essential businesses that includes Here are some of the UK’s black owned hair businesses and
those very shops, we are looking to alternative products that the women behind them:
are stocked in places like Superdrug, Boots or e-tailers like
Equi Botanics founded by Ekwy Chukwuji-Nnene
lookfantastic – this would be more understandable if these Jim + Henry founded by Tammy Facey
purchases were in store. The closure of non-essential businesses Afro Hair + Skin cofounded by Ibi Meier-Oruitemeka
has shown that convenience isn’t as important in not supporting Big Hair + Beauty, founded by Melissa Sinclair
black-owned businesses but the lack of awareness of what these Charlotte Mensah founded by Charlotte Mensah
black-owned brands are about and the lack of knowledge of how to Dizziak founded by Loretta de Feo
find them. Elenge founded by Carine Mbala
Flora + Curl founded by Rose Ovensehi
Boucléme founded by Michele Scott-Lynch
It is time that we as black women, as black men, do more in
illustration by Jasmine
illustrated Carol
by Jasmine Carol
10 11
Islam and feminism – reversing stereotypes
Meet the Muslim women changing perspectives around feminism and Islam.
Words by Amenah Al-khazraji
Growing up as an Arab in the West, it seemed as though the females. “From an early age, I have seen how boys come above homes. They’re essential figures in society, and as such, they
main focus of western news is portraying Muslim women girls in my environment, and where culture and religion justify should be represented in the mainstream media.”
negatively. Stories like the honour killing of Palestinian this inequality.”
citizen Israa Ghrayeb, made me aware that a healthy For Muslims or non-Muslims, a significant way of understanding
nurturing environment is what leads to women to fight for She recollects that, during her time at school, inequality didn’t the truth about feminism and Islam is by reading the Quran.
“
their rights. seem like an issue, and that it was more the home environment It becomes more evident that Islam has, for thousands of
that led to her questioning gender inequality. “I started to years, introduced female rights, which were not there in the
For me, the influence of western culture has resulted in open- question this system from a very young age. I got much backlash pre-Islamic world, like females’ rights to inheritance. “Allah These women are
mindedness towards other cultures, which some might view from my trusted environment.” With support from her father to instructs you concerning your children: for the male, what is
as too westernised. Having spent my childhood in the Middle
East and London, as well as being raised by a single mother,
continue studying and educating herself on the issue, she was
able to keep standing up for women’s rights.
equal to the share of two females,” Al-Nisa Verse, the Holy Quran. proof that Muslim women
I was able to develop my perspective on feminism, combining
both my heritage and religion, which I am extremely More often than not, Arab and Muslim women tend to find
Lodi, agrees, explaining that: “many also rely on the centuries-
old, male interpretations of religious scripture, which were
are not meek, repressed
connected to, and a western view too. So, how can feminism themselves torn between tradition and standing up for their influenced by the patriarchal cultures in which they were
and faith come together? rights. “If I completely please the traditional community, I will unfolded. Pre-Islamic Arabia was the framework in which Islam and hidden away in
lose my personality. If I completely please the modern world, I will was introduced, and it curbed many existing customs – such as
Twenty-nine-year-old journalist, Loubna Khalkhali, shares
her experience with feminism. Khalkhali, who works for the
lose my personality as well,” explains Khalkhali. polygamy” suggests Lodi. ‘tent-like’ clothing and
”
Belgian Public Broadcaster VRT, has strong beliefs regarding
many topics concerned with the Middle East, from feminism
Author of Modesty: A Fashion Paradox, Hafsa Lodi, says, “It is
essential to surround yourself with a social circle of like-minded
With more organisations based in the Middle East and the Arab
nation like Stand for Women and She in Politics, a change is
segregated homes
to political conflicts. “I search for stories in that region, women, who live balanced lifestyles, without extremes, and as undoubtedly taking place. Stand for Women, an organisation
and I mainly have been working for an online project where cliché or cheesy as it may sound, listen to your heart, and do what based in Lebanon aiming to empower women all over the Middle
I interviewed strong Muslim women all over the world,” she feels right.” East, focuses mainly on the workforce. The establishment has a
says. Khalkhali adds that she aims to break stereotypes goal of achieving gender diversity at work and in other aspects
about Muslim women, while also breaking restrictions in News coverage also plays an essential role in helping to raise of life too.
the community surrounding her. Being a journalist who also awareness about topics like feminism. While the West is portrayed
wears a headscarf while living in the West surely has its as developed and exterior, the East is seen as backwards and in- She in politics, however, is a social media platform also based in
difficulties. “Belgium is a very secular state, and I am the first need to be ruled over. Edward Said’s theory of Orientalism plays a the Middle East, aiming to tackle issues associated with politics.
journalist with a headscarf, so they are still figuring out how I crucial role behind these media depictions. In his landmark 1978 It aims to showcase the critical role of women in politics,
should do my work without getting backlash from the public,” book of the same name, Said explained that Orientalism can be displaying images of their role in the Arab Spring, and other
she explains. discussed and analysed as the “corporate institution for dealing global political movements, and those who have taken significant
with the Orient”. He added that this is done through making roles in politics, like Muslim congresswoman Ilhan Omar.
Her interest and dedication towards feminism are evident statements about the orient, as well as “authorising views of it,
through her career choices as well as her education, which describing it, by teaching it, settling it, ruling over it.” However, what seems to lack in the feminist movement, globally
focused mainly on Middle Eastern studies and gender equality and not only in the Arab and Muslim world, is the support of
in the Arab world, specifically through examining polygamy An example of this can be seen through the news of women in men. “Raise your sons and daughters equally. When this happens,
in Islam and female imams. To her, the ideology of feminism is Saudi Arabia running away, instead of shedding light on more I’m sure there will be a more women-friendly environment. To
the only way to establish equality between men and women. positive examples of feminism in Muslim countries. Lodi implies the men: it all starts with yourself,” claims Khalkhali.
that the reason for this is linked to sensationalism, explaining
She believes that, to this day, equality hasn’t been fully that, “Unfortunately it’s these types of stories that make the front Lodi agrees and suggests that, regardless of religion, men have
achieved, with a few exceptions “There have always been pages and headlines.” an essential role to play in normalising feminism. When it comes
women who, in their environment, in their way, stood up to domestic abuse and other discrimination against women, men
for their equal rights. Throughout history, we see women On a positive note, improvement regarding the portrayal of Arab are the reason behind these issues. “If men see fellow men not
stand up for their rights, and have been seen as witches, women has recently started to take place. “Just look at Halima only setting a good example but also preaching and lecturing
for example, and were burned because of their beliefs. That Aden, the Somali-American fashion model who wears a hijab, and about the importance of treating females justly, they’re likely to
seems so barbaric and so far away. But in this era, which has worked for luxury designers like MaxMara, Kanye West and take women’s rights more seriously, than when these ‘lessons’
we call postmodernism, women’s rights activists are still more, and has covered magazines like Allure, Vogue Arabia and CR are promoted by females,” advises Lodi.
not respected and are still in danger when they talk about Fashion Book,” Lodi explains.
equality.” On a final note, it is essential to remind many women that,
According to Khalkhali, the observation of powerful women has while tradition, culture, and society may seem like an obstacle, Loubna Khalkhali
She talks about the role of families in helping to raise resulted in more Muslim and Arab women feeling that they have religion and feminism can, without a doubt, join forces through
awareness for gender equality. Traditionally, Khalkhali power. “These women are proof that Muslim women are not meek, having an open mind towards certain situations, while staying
explains, the families seem to favour male children over repressed and hidden away in ‘tent-like’ clothing and segregated true to your faith.
12 13
“ If one of my guy friends right now were to start woo an XMM,
I’d probably slap the fuck out of him, because that’s gross
Types of Ah Lians’. Yes, it’s a real video you can watch on YouTube.
An ‘ah lian’ is a considered a counterpart to XMMs, and they are ”
to say about the extremely unsettling problem of men pursuing
younger girls. “It doesn’t only happen in Singapore, it happens
categorised as being incredibly loyal and protective towards their everywhere around the world - where older guys have a desire to be
friends and family, but possess more violent or troublemaker with a girl who’s way younger than him… Youth is perceived to be a
tendencies, and are notably working-class and speak Mandarin and thing of value and that’s what guys like in a girl.”
dialect more fluently.
However, he adds: “If one of my guy friends right now were to
They too, have a highly curated and recognizable aesthetic sense. start wooing a XMM, I’d probably slap the fuck out of him, because
However unlike XMMs, some ah lians don’t grow out of their that’s gross.” Regardless, this paints a rather bleak picture of the
phase, but instead evolve as they grow older. Despite their many Singaporean dating scene and the way men view and treat women.
differences, one thing can be said for sure. XMMs find ah lians have We’ve established that XMMs in Singapore have been given the short
always been used to drive engagement on social media. In simpler end of a pretty crappy stick. Most of them are just young girls in
words, people love using them for clout. And it’s rarely positive or their formative years, who are figuring out their identity, trying to
genuinely entertaining. fit in, and grappling with the complexities of desiring validation.
Like most of us are at that age.
YouTubers like Dee Kosh, a Singaporean YouTuber known for his
‘comedy’ videos and tongue-in-cheek commentary on Singaporean Think back to your secondary school years: were you ever picked
news and culture, have used XMMs and ah lians as content for on for your hobbies, interests, or your appearance? Did you try to
years. The video highlight Dee Kosh has chosen to showcase on his upload covers of songs onto Facebook, only to have people from
channel is called ‘Watching MORE CRINGEY Tik Tok Videos’, and it school watch them and laugh at you? (That sounds like Rachel from
comes up when you search XMM on YouTube. And there are so many Glee, but whatever.) Did people ever mock your music taste? Have
more videos of people claiming these girls are cringe and lame, but people bullied you on anonymous question sites like ask.fm? Did the
taking time out of their lives to scroll mindlessly through apps like older ‘cool’ girls ever humiliate you in front of others and bother you
TikTok, saving the videos, editing them together and watching them for no reason? (Authors note: almost all of these have happened to
again? And then uploading them again, which gives them a platform me.)
for people to laugh at them.
How did these events affect you and your development? It’s
It is a rather strange, parasitic and co-dependent relationship. true that teenagers are impressionable. Which is why when we
Mandy Chng is a 26-year-old, queer feminist activist who has see someone morphing into a XMM or ah lian, or whatever kind
academic experience in gender studies. She says: “Internalized of arbitrary labels we have for people, we should learn to be
XMM - Singapore’s little sister obsession misogyny informs the way women feel the toxic pressure to
differentiate themselves from other women by putting other women
understanding. We’ve all been through phases. Some people grow
out of them, and some don’t. But if it makes them feel comfortable
down, in order to gain approval from others.” and happy, who are we to mock their choices?
Teen culture for girls in Singapore needs
The existence of the label itself and using them to define these Yes, there is an issue with young girls posting sexualised videos
addressing with understanding and compassion, girls creates a division between people, and it’s almost like a pass on the internet. But the problem doesn’t lie with them. Young
not sexualisation and mockery on TikTok to insult, roast, or sexualise them to your heart’s content. Which women are sexualised regardless of the way they dress, or how
shouldn’t normalised in any way. Which brings us to an equally they behave. Why does labelling someone as a XMM give everyone
worrying aspect of how XMMs are perceived: the dating world. An else free reign to mock and insult them, instead of providing
informal Instagram survey was created to aid in the research for positive validation and constructive guidance in order for them to
this particular piece. As fun as it was to compile, the results are by grow as humans?
Words by Bernice Ng
no means concrete and the survey is not a legitimate study, so take
these as observations and experiences. Would it not be considered our responsibility to take
What is a Xiao Mei Mei? Xiao Mei Mei （小妹妹) , abbreviated Their major personality traits are that they are naïve, sweet, impressionable young girls under our collective wing to ensure
as XMM, is a Mandarin phrase that directly translates to innocent, air-headed, impressionable, and they tend to dress There is widespread belief that XMMs are naïve and impressionable, they are not preyed on and exploited by older men with nefarious
‘little sister’ and it’s used when talking about a certain type ‘provocatively’ (in ultra short shorts and crop tops). And most and some of them are young, or young-looking. This assumption intentions? Hopefully, this piece has given everyone something to
of Singaporean girl. People who’ve grown up in Singapore have of them are notably middle-class, an important factor that will comes with their age range, but also common personality traits. think about. What can we do better, how do we help people, how do
inevitably encountered a XMM or two, especially during their be brought into play later. In school, some XMMs are considered The danger that is attached to this is what kind of ‘men’ find these we confront our internalised misogyny, the pathological need to
secondary school years. popular or cool, due to their desirable appearance and popularity qualities attractive and why. The results of the survey showed that distinguish ourselves from others through dragging them down?
with boys their age. Some people try to emulate the style and the types of people who like dating XMMs are “grown men who are
Singaporeans have all but written being a XMM off as a phase mannerisms of XMMs in an attempt to be accepted (guilty). unable to date women their own age due to the lack of emotional There is no solution or answer to why we are obsessed with
some girls go through, as a throwaway joke. There is more to maturity, or men who have self-esteem issues and need an ego boost XMMs until we recognise that there is a problem with the way
this archetype than what meets the eye, and even more to be There have been no concrete academic studies on Singaporean or something to control.” we perceive them. And that is the first thing we must work
gleaned from how we perceive and react to them. A XMM is archetypes like the XMM, although there is a plethora of common consciously towards changing. The ultimate conclusion: there is
most commonly described defined as a slim and conventionally experiences and observations, which have been documented with SneakySushii, a 26-year-old Singaporean YouTuber known for his nothing more to be said until we collectively agree that guidance
attractive Chinese girl, aged anywhere from 11 to 17 years old. immense dedication by various local YouTubers. Videos such as ’17 roast comedy videos, including ‘XMMs have gone too far’, has this is more helpful than mockery.
15
The new shape of sustainable fashion Emma Zack has emerged as a key player in making secondhand
more accessible, with fabulously curated collections of vintage
fashion for curves. At its core is reminding its wearer that, just
Meet the gamechangers leading the charge towards an ethical fashion future for every body like fruit, “They’re uniquely vibrant, sweet and desirable at any
size and shape.”
Zack is a magpie for vintage plus-size and anything fruit printed,
and while she agrees that it requires a lot more rooting around,
she stresses the fact that it is out there.
Words by Majken Hansen “I mean you can find it for sure,” she says. “Any thrift store you go
to you can find bigger sizes but it’s not as easy as going to a store
and finding a dress in a size 4. You just have to dig, and it’s a lot of
patience and sifting but trust me, it is there.”
As the name implies, quirky fruit prints is at the heart of Berriez,
sprung from Zack’s own love for colour. It’s also is one of the
“
While so many people want to shop ethically, slow fashion doesn’t reasons why the brand came into fruition – to resist the bizarre
quite have a track record of being size-inclusive. But in order
for sustainability to become the norm rather than the niche, it’s
vital that people above a size 16 can be part of the conversation.
I would like to see fatphobic ‘dressing rules’ which have told people what to wear
and what not to wear.
Because while that’s the average size for women in the UK, a
quick look at the websites of some of the most mainstream ethical
brands reveals a common cut-off at XL.
brands talking to bigger “I really didn’t start wearing a lot of colour until a few years ago,”
Zack explains. “I’ve always been told I should be wearing dark
colours and black because it’s more, quote-unquote, flattering for
In fact, according to a survey by size-inclusive hosiery brand bodies other than size my figure. But then I started wearing colour and I was like, ‘wait
this makes me so happy’, and wearing prints makes me so happy.”
”
Snag, 75% of size 16+ women ‘hate’ shopping and have been ‘driven
to tears’ from not finding clothes that fit. Add in the sustainability
factor then and one’s options are further woefully narrowed. 14/16 models She hopes that wearers can have that same epiphany and feel
happy and confident in the skin they’re in. “Plus-size people can
wear bright colours and patterns even if it’s not, quote-unquote,
“The thing that I’ve observed with sustainable fashion brands flattering. We can wear whatever we want.”
and ethical brands is that there is a complete lack of any options When founder Patricia Luiza Blaj struggled to and clothes that fit
whenever it comes to plus sizes,” says Sydney Scott, sustainable and appealed to her, she took matters into her own hands. She also hopes to offer a positive shopping experience that leaves
fashion influencer and stylist. She is well familiar with the customers brimming with confidence.
frustration of wanting to participate in a movement that sizes her “My personal experience was not finding clothes at all, not Images from Berriez by Jessica Portillo
out. even considering anything regarding ethical production or “Often shopping as a plus-size person is really demoralising and
sustainability,” she explains. “That prompted me to start Loud disappointing,” she explains. “Like how many times have I left a
“Most of my options are cut out as soon as I turn to looking at Bodies, because I could no longer find clothes in my size that store just feeling upset? I can’t even count on my fingers.”
shopping sustainably or ethically, which is a huge issue whenever actually looked like something a young, creative person would
we start talking about sustainability and ethicality, because is it want to wear,” she continues. “Just baggy, dark, classic, very “The goal is confidence,” Zack continues. “The goal for me is not
really ethical if you’re only making it for one size-exclusive group minimalist clothing.” just selling things. I want you to feel amazing in what you buy and
of people?” I want you to feel just happy.”
Her goal is to create clothes for every body, that make you feel
And she is not alone in her frustration. Designer Sara Brown has confident, comfortable and happy. “I would just like that when As for the rest of the industry, Zack hopes to see more brands
been at the forefront of the fight for size inclusivity throughout you wear my clothes, you do not think about your body at all,” Blaj take a holistic approach towards size inclusivity from the get-go.
her entire career. explains. “It’s extremely liberating to actually wear clothes that In other words, “not just going up to a 14, I’m talking going up to a
aren’t tight anywhere and fit you and you can feel comfortable in.” size 30 plus,” she says. “Like just because you have size 14 doesn’t
“Plus size clothing has always been a driver for me because I’ve mean you’re size-inclusive.”
always been bigger,” she says. “I studied fashion and all the way She continues: “Something I’ve always felt, especially after I
through that I knew that I wanted to be able to design for bigger started recovering from bulimia and gaining weight, was that as Morgan agrees: “I get frustrated seeing brands putting on an idea
bodies.” a woman, and especially as a fat woman, I had to shrink myself that they’re inclusive through the imagery that they use on their
and make myself be small.” So she set out to create the brand she Instagram, and then not actually being. I wish those brands would
Brown recently took the plunge and launched her own label, Dolly thought was missing, with clothes that make wearers feel loud actually put the money where their mouth is with those photos.”
Rocket, which is due to release its first collection this summer. and proud.
Her hope is to not only fill the size gap, but also breathe some Similarly, Scott wants to see a more intentional approach to
fresh air into an ethical fashion landscape generally saturated by “That’s what I wanted to do; encourage women to be the opposite extended sizing, instead of jumping on the bandwagon with half-
wardrobe basics. of that, regardless of what you look like, to have a loud voice and hearted attempts.
to not hide your body, to be confident in who you are.”
“I think there’s definitely a lack of sustainable, colourful, fun “I would like to see brands talking to bigger bodies other than
things,” she says. “A lot of sustainable efforts are maybe being While a slew of brands are now realising the importance of size size 14/16 models,” she explains. “I would like to hear that the
put into the perfect white cotton t-shirt, or jeans or black dress, inclusivity, the vintage and secondhand market is still lagging clothes are being tested on people who are bigger sizes.”
which I think is great, but because of my style I would never behind.
normally wear that type of clothing.” “You can tell the difference between a brand that just took a
“For the longest time I felt like I couldn’t take part in the couple of their styles and sized them up a few sizes and graded
With a penchant for 1960s psychedelic prints, she promises a conversation about vintage clothing or secondhand clothing,” them to larger bodies,” she continues, “versus brands who have
range of groovy glad rags made to last a lifetime. says Scott. “You see all these people going thrifting and they have taken the time to do fit research and really putting the work in to
all these cute clothes, but usually you can’t find those in sizes expand their range of sizes.”
“I would love to be able to create sustainable fashion that is also aside from smaller straight sizes.”
colourful and playful and fun in terms of design, which suits my And while on many fronts the industry is moving at a glacial pace,
style better,” she explains. “I hope to be able to dress people that Stylist Ansley Morgan agrees: “There’s just a lot less cool vintage Scott feels hopeful.
haven’t had the opportunity to buy something like this before. options. But I do think there is stuff available, you just have to
So much of it is just giving people options that aren’t available search a lot more.” “I definitely think that we’re headed in the right direction. I think
already.” it’s slow but I think that the more we talk about it and the more
Both Scott and Morgan name New York-based vintage store that we have conversations like this, the quicker it moves, which
Romanian-based label Loud Bodies grew from a similar sentiment. Berriez as a gamechanger in this field. The vibrant brainchild of is good news.” Images from Loud Bodies by Jessica Portillo 17
FourFiveSeconds with Fenty: designing for Rihanna
Meet Gary Dicker and Jake McGoldrick, the rising Irish design talents who got caught up in
Rihanna’s business
Words by Torey Cassidy
Then I looked at a Berghaus jacket, it would have been used by They soon learned to adapt. “Initially we found out that they were
people going up Mount Everest.” A week later after the students had from Fenty, then we found out about the dress, then the denim so that
developed their concepts came the arrival of Alexandre Roux, design shifted our ideas a little bit,” continues Jake. “It became pretty clear
director of Fenty, with team in tow. They went through each concept what they want us to do. They want something clean, denim, powerful,
still keeping their identity at bay until somebody finally put two and something that could be worn, something a bit statement-like.”
two together.
This challenged students to work inside boundaries, making the
“After a few guesses somebody blurted out Fenty! The reaction was final garment both wearable and runway ready. “Working with a
wonderful, everyone was so excited and happy, a couple of super- brand helped the students to think about their work, not only on a
fans were almost speechless – it was a lovely moment,” Robert fondly conceptual level, but also a commercial one too,” explains Robert.
remembers.
To represent the Fenty aesthetic, Gary took some inspiration directly
Among world domination, Rihanna weighs the importance of from the dress design. “I remade the button placket and I put it around
championing young designers. From hiring Central Saint Martin’s the collar to finish it off, so it wasn’t a raw edge. This made it instantly
student Conner Ives while he was still in education to partnering with recognisable against the colour of the lime green nylon, so it worked
Westminster University on a live industry project, she feels it’s her really well.”
duty, “it’s part of our role as creatives to constantly be on the lookout
for fresh talent,” she confessed to Dazed. While the jacket was the focal point, he also made some shorts to
complete the overall look. “I wanted them to be really basic, if I made
So, the brief was set in stone. Second year BA Fashion Design them too complicated or too wild it would have been too much. I put
students were to embark on a live project with LVMH–owned fashion two patch pockets on both the front and back to match the jacket so
brand Fenty. Running for a course of six weeks, the one-of-a-kind there was a nice flow throughout.”
tutorship brought a wealth of experience.
Jake was originally inspired by Jamaican horse racing images but
Before attending Westminster University, both Gary and Jake began as the project went on, he realised that reworking the corset dress
their fashion design journeys four years ago at Sallynoggin College of within the conventions of menswear would put his skillset to best use. and the inspiration. They both said that they would probably wear the
Further Education in Dublin. “I wanted to do something I could see coming from their menswear jacket so that to me was a big compliment.”
label if they were to have one” he explains, “I tried to look at the dress
Jake praises the college for giving him a start. “Everyone has to begin from their point of view, I was more so looking at the details from Jake had also made an impression on the panel and earned himself
their career somewhere, and they give you good grounds to do so.” the dress rather than looking at it as an overall shape.” Successfully a place in Rihanna’s top four. Learning to adapt to a brief is essential
reinventing Fenty for the man, he went for a neat commercial look that when it comes to designing for a client and Jake had shown a real
In the two years spent at Sallynoggin, both students were able to represented the brand and himself as a designer simultaneously. ability to do so. Despite this achievement, he still doubted his designs.
build their design portfolios, which helped them get into Westminster, “Putting it into the show I didn’t really like it, I wasn’t a fan but that’s
At the beginning of the school year last September, both Gary Dicker where they have now just wrapped up their second year. “I went for a clean two piece that complemented each other and then always kind of the way, you look at stuff for too long and you just kind
and Jake McGoldrick, among the rest of the BA Fashion Design the bag came along at the end as well,” he explains. “I just felt like of don’t really, you’re more worried about people liking it so you just
students at Westminster University, were expecting to begin their Gary is predominately a technical menswear designer and realised his that would be a good idea because they wanted something wearable tell yourself that you don’t.”
cutting project as previous years did. Instead, they were briefed on love for fashion through collecting old football jerseys and analysing and commercial, but they also wanted us to do something innovative
something extraordinarily different. their small details. “When I was about 15 or 16 years old, I started and put our own spin on it, which is what I tried to do.” There is a lesson to be learned in this. Go easy on yourself, everybody
enjoying everything about fashion,” he recalls. “Reading about it, the is their own worst critic and you’re doing okay!
“Our tutors came in and were like we’ve got some news for you,” history of it, the cultures around it, movies about it and books about Six weeks later, illustrations were drawn, fabrics were cut, and
explains Gary. “They told us that we were doing a live project with a it.” designs were complete. Show time. A private runway show was Overall it was a surreal experience for all involved, Andrew Groves,
Paris-based fashion brand.” held at Westminster University’s Central London campus. All 51 Professor of Fashion Design at Westminster said, “It has been
Primarily a menswear designer too, Jake has a particular curiosity BA Fashion Design students were due to present their designs to a incredibly exciting for our students to experience a live industry
Upon announcement, excitement filled the room as students in accessible garments. He knew he was interested in fashion and panel consisting of their tutor Robert Leach, Fenty design director brief with a creative team that was so involved in all stages of the
contemplated who it could be. Was its Dior? Louis Vuitton? But the thought he would give it a shot, “It was something that I could see Alexandre Roux, his deputy Jahleel Weaver and founder, CEO and project. The knowledge students gained from experiencing first-hand
big reveal was put on hold. The students were tasked with beginning myself doing” he says, but as he progress through the course the idea creative director Rihanna. how a design team develops and produces new design outcomes
their research and design development before they knew their client, of studying it at a bachelors level interested him even more. was invaluable for them to be part of that process so early in their
ensuring their personal stamp on the project. While everyone was aware that Rihanna was involved in the project, careers.”
After the reveal, design director, Alexandre Roux instructed the they were completely unaware that they would be presenting their
Robert Leach, senior course lecturer explains to Dazed, “They knew students to put their own creative spin on the Fenty dress. The iconic designs to her face-to-face. On giving advice for anybody looking to forge a career in fashion
they’d be working on a branded project, but we wanted their research denim corset design was the focal point of the project and a template design, Jake mentions starting small, learning the skill and building
to be personal, to explain who they are as designers and what they for the student’s approach. Fenty provided upcycled materials from “When the project started nobody imagined she would be so involved, your portfolio: “You have to be okay with starting somewhere.”
care about.” the brand’s core range to work with – Japanese denim and cotton drill but as things progressed, she became more and more excited by what
in both white and blue. she was seeing and said she hoped she could meet the students and Gary says: “Make sure you really like it a lot because there’s a lot
To begin, Jake looked at images taken by photographer Wayne see their work first-hand” says Robert. “With a lot of careful forward of long nights and weekends aren’t often free. Also explore your
Tippetts, whose work explores the street subcultures of Jamaica and Due to their focus on designing for the male, both Gary and Jake were planning we were able to make it happen, but I only found out for sure interests, look at history and what’s going on in the world, it might
London. “It was a Jamaican horse racing jacket in those photographs initially apprehensive about the project. Finding out they had to tailor the night before that she would be attending. She spoke to every have nothing to do with fashion, but it can inform your design.”
that I liked, I took inspiration from that for the cutting details and the their ideas to suit a womenswear brand worried them a little. student individually about their concepts and their work, she clearly
bag too.” had a strong grasp of the design process and was genuinely interested All images courtesy of Gary Dicker and Jake McGoldrick
“A lot of the menswear students in the room didn’t think we were in what they had to say.”
Gary took inspiration from a Japanese tenugui towel and an 80s going to get a look in,” says Jake, “it seemed like a project very much
exploration jacket. “It’s basically a towel that’s used for multiple tailored for womenswear. But turns out Rihanna was actually really Team Fenty was impressed. Gary explains they loved his design,
purpose,” he explains. “As decoration, as a headscarf, around water into a lot of the menswear, which was bizarre. Her design director “They thought it was a really nice way of changing the garment into
bottles and workers use it as a cloth to wipe themselves in the fields. happened to be really keen on a lot of it too.” menswear and that you could visually see where my ideas came from
19You can also read
