HIGH PERFORMANCE MERINO JACKET - ISSUE 77 DECEMBER 2018 - Australian Wool ...
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ISSUE 77 DECEMBER 2018 PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION www.wool.com HIGH PERFORMANCE MERINO JACKET 32 40 54 POLICE CHIEFS WEATHERING DROUGHT NUMNUTS NUMBS TARGETTED WITH REGENERATIVE AG NUTS (AND TAILS)!
22 A FL’S TOM HAWKINS 66 T RAINING FOR SHEARERS AT HOME WITH WOOL AND WOOL HANDLERS EDITOR Richard Smith E richard.smith@wool.com OFF-FARM ON-FARM CONTRIBUTING WRITER 4 Getting on with business 38 AWI Graduate Training Program Lisa Griplas E lisa.griplas@wool.com 5 AWI 2018 AGM 40 Weathering drought with regenerative ag 6 Live & breathe campaign 43 Grower innovations during drought Australian Wool Innovation Limited A L6, 68 Harrington St, The Rocks, 8 Elite athletes put wool to the test 43 Drought resources Sydney NSW 2000 9 Woolmark Optim WR jacket 44 Banking on Merinos GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001 P 02 8295 3100 10 PE Nation runs with wool 46 Wild dog coordinators E info@wool.com W wool.com AWI Helpline 1800 070 099 11 Across Mongolia with Merino 47 Community-wide wild dog control SUBSCRIPTION 12 Woolmark Performance Challenge 48 Collaboration combatting invasives Beyond the Bale is available free. 14 Aussie wool receives eco award 49 Metabolic disorders To subscribe contact AWI P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com 16 Yarns from Millpost Merino 50 Drought: what happens to worms? 17 Grower spotlight 52 Tell us your parasite management Beyond the Bale is published by Australian Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI), a company 18 Young designers at Sheepvention 53 Breech flystrike publications funded by Australian woolgrowers and the Australian Government. AWI’s goal is to help 18 Strateas Carlucci continue with wool 54 Numnuts numbs nuts (and tails)! increase the demand for wool by actively 19 IWP winner visits Australia 56 Merino Sire Evaluation explained selling Australian wool and its attributes through investments in marketing, innovation 20 Tom Hawkins with Rodd & Gunn 58 Sire Evaluation made easy and R&D – from farm to fashion and interiors. 21 Farage gets airborne 59 Merino Bloodlines Performance COPYRIGHT 22 Campaign for Wool UK 60 R&D into profit per hectare Material in Beyond the Bale is copyright. 24 China’s New World Wool 61 Improving resilience in Merinos Reproduction of the material is encouraged. However prior permission must be obtained 25 Nanshan Wool Supremacy Trophy 62 Sexed semen via AI from the Editor. 26 Phillip Lim’s Merino Series 63 World’s oldest semen DISCLAIMER 26 Tim Coppens’ Merino sports-luxe 64 Winning with Weaners To the extent permitted by law, Australian Wool Innovation Ltd excludes all liability 27 Bergdorf Goodman in NYC 65 RAMping Up Repro for loss or damage arising from the use of, or reliance on, the information contained in 28 Paris wool promotion 66 Silverleaf nightshade this publication. 28 Jacquemus’ Mediterranean vibes 67 Semi-robotic shearing The Woolmark symbol is a certification mark registered in many countries. 29 Zadig & Voltaire’s joie de vivre 68 Shearer training at Tambo © 2018 Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. All 29 KOCHÉ’s new collection 70 Competitions promote excellence rights reserved. 30 Tokyo’s Vogue Fashion’s Night Out 71 Woolmark Bale Stencil ADVERTISING SALES Steve Luxford, Pulse Hub Pty Ltd 31 Merino gets edgy in Japan 72 Young judges championships P 0429 699 553 32 Police Chiefs targeted with wool 73 Nuffield studies to boost Aussie flock E steve.luxford@pulsehub.com.au Advertising is subject to terms and conditions 33 Running with wool shoes 74 EMI’s strong performance continues published on the ratecard, which is available from Pulse Hub. 34 Education highlights 75 WoolQ 36 Gieves & Hawkes By Royal Appointment 76 What’s the impact of forex? ISSN 1447-9680 37 Royal visit’s wool connections 77 Markets in need of stability FRONT COVER 78 Readers’ photos Pictured is the new range of Woolmark Optim WR jackets. The 100% Merino wool fabric used AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES in the jacket is water and wind resistant; the feedback@wool.com fabric has been commercially launched and is Marketing Sheep Woolgrower being used in both the fashion and outdoor Production Services markets. The Woolmark Optim WR jacket has WOOL.COM Processing Innovation Business been produced exclusively to enable wool levy & Education Extension Services To subscribe to the free monthly AWI e-newsletter payers to experience the benefits of Merino wool for woolgrowers, and the weekly wool market review in an innovative way – see page 9 to find out how e-newsletter, visit www.wool.com/subscribe you can purchase it. WOOLMARK.COM instagram/BeyondTheBale facebook.com/TheWoolmarkCompany twitter.com/woolinnovation twitter.com/woolmark youtube.com/AWIWoolProduction instagram.com/TheWoolmarkCompany wool.com/podcast youtube.com/TheWoolmarkCompany This magazine is printed on PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of View Beyond the Bale online with image galleries BtB and video at http://beyondthebale.wool.com Forest Certification) paper stock. GD3149
UPFRONT 3 A LETTER FROM THE NEW AWI CHAIRMAN MS COLETTE GARNSEY OAM Colette Garnsey OAM Chairman Australian Wool Innovation M y name is Colette Garnsey, and I have the appropriate levy rate to be paying on We understand the drought conditions recently been appointed as the new their wool sales at this time. However, we are affecting much of the industry and we Chairman of AWI. I would like to take are encouraged – indeed humbled – that acknowledge this will affect production this opportunity to provide you with an more than 90 per cent of woolgrowers see going forward. Let me reassure you there is update on the changes under way at AWI to the value in AWI’s work and are prepared no more important time for a strong AWI strengthen your company by ensuring you, to contribute towards our research, working to support woolgrowers. our woolgrowers, are at the forefront of development and marketing efforts on Our industry has a positive and everything we do. your behalf. prosperous future. As your Chairman, Firstly, let me thank and acknowledge The 1.5 per cent levy vote does not change I look forward to continuing to support the immediate past Chairman Mr AWI’s resolve to working in the best woolgrowers here in Australia and Walter Merriman for his leadership and interests of woolgrowers. We have the to taking their wool to the world contribution to the industry. Mr Merriman’s reserves to manage the balance sheet by continuing to build demand and vision for the industry was pivotal in and our operations will be managed to match positioning our beautiful fibre as the increasing the global demand and market our funding. As woolgrowers adjust to the natural fibre of choice for processors, access for Australian wool. seasonal conditions, so will AWI adapt to retailers and consumers around the globe. the democratic choice of our levy payers. I step into the role of Chairman knowing In doing this, we will make certain our the global demand for wool is stronger than operations continue to be transparent, lean ever, with our nation’s natural fibre desired and efficient. by processors, retailers and customers in all parts of the globe. This gives me a great sense of pride as I represent domestic woolgrowers to our international processors and retail brand partners. MS COLETTE GARNSEY OAM, My commitment to AWI’s goal is AWI CHAIRMAN unwavering. I am committed to listening and to ensuring your views are heard at Ms Garnsey was elected by AWI shareholders to the AWI Board on 8 Board level. As AWI enters a new phase, November 2011 and has been Deputy Chair since 2017. She was appointed my and the Board’s focus is on addressing as Chairman of the AWI Board on 9 November 2018 following Mr your concerns, on doing the right thing Merriman’s resignation as Chairman. by you, our levy payers, and on building a Ms Garnsey – whose early childhood was spent on sheep properties in stronger company for the benefit of the western NSW – has 39 years of retail, wholesale, distribution and marketing wool industry. experience with Australia’s top brands in multiple geographies. Currently she is Non Executive Director of Flight Centre Travel Group and until As a priority, we will do this by responding recently was a Trade, Tourism and Investment Policy Advisory Council to, and actioning, the 82 recommendations advisor to the Federal Government. of the Review of Performance commissioned by the Federal Government Previously Ms Garnsey was executive director at Premier Investments’s The and to working through the changes Just Group, and in senior executive positions at David Jones and Pacific required. The Board and the executive team Brands. She has had over 30 years’ experience in department stores and are committed to making these changes has dealt with globally successful brands and designers bringing many to a reality. Australia. Prior to AWI’s AGM we announced the Ms Garnsey has also been Advisory Board member of CSIRO 1997-2001; results of WoolPoll 2018; Australian Advisory Board member Australian Government Innovation Council 2010- woolgrowers have voted in favour of a 2012; Director Australian Fashion Week 1998-2009; Judge Veuve Clicquot wool levy of 1.5 per cent. We respect our Business Women of the Year 2008-2014. woolgrowers’ decision of 1.5 per cent and see that they believe a 1.5 per cent levy is
4 UPFRONT GETTING ON WITH BUSINESS We are continuing with initiatives to help increase the demand for wool through investments in marketing Stuart McCullough and R&D – from farm to fashion. Chief Executive Officer Australian Wool Innovation WOOLPOLL 2018 via their right to vote at the company’s Annual General Meetings and Extraordinary on a 24/7 basis as well as an efficient, easy to use online auction operating outside the Australian woolgrowers have voted in favour General Meetings. AWI has more than Open Cry market hours. With extensive of a wool levy of 1.5% on wool sales to fund benefits for buyers, brokers and growers, the 22,000 shareholders. It’s important to note research, development and marketing. Of WoolQ Market will serve as a complement that paying wool levies does not automatically the 13,506 votes received, following the to the current Open Cry auction markets. make a levy payer a shareholder of AWI. To allocation of three rounds of preferences, A pilot of the WoolQ Market will commence become a shareholder, a levy payer must apply 52.82% voted in favour of a 1.5% wool levy. at the end of the year, with full roll out (which is free). I encourage all eligible wool On first preferences, 88.28% of woolgrowers anticipated early in 2019. To use WoolQ’s levy payers, who have not already become an had voted for a levy option of either 1.5% or current functionality and to ensure you are AWI shareholder, to apply. To be eligible to 2%, demonstrating continued support for kept informed of the further developments, become an AWI shareholder, applicants must AWI’s role investing in R&D and marketing on have paid at least $100 in wool levies in the ensure you register at www.woolq.com. behalf of woolgrowers. past three years. AWI will continue to be prudent in managing HIGH PERFORMANCE its balance sheet and will adjust its operations To become an AWI shareholder, levy- JACKET: OFFER FOR paying woolgrowers should complete the to match available funding as part of shareholder application form at www.wool. WOOLGROWERS the next three-year strategic plan, which com/shareholders and return it to the AWI Using the latest OptimTM technology, commences in 2019-20. The company will share registry at Link Market Services. Merino wool is able to be woven into endeavour to ensure no loss of momentum Enquiries should be directed to Link Market an immensely dense fabric that is more in the marketing of wool in Australia and resistant to water and wind, while retaining overseas – and will continue its targeted Services on 1800 113 373 (free call). all of Merino wool’s fine properties, such as investment across sheep health and welfare, breathability. The 100% Australian Merino reproduction, vertebrate pests, genetics, fibre REVIEW OF wool fabric was commercially launched a advocacy, farm automation and software PERFORMANCE few years ago and is now being used in both development. IMPLEMENTATION the fashion and outdoor markets. To enable I thank the WoolPoll Panel and its Chairman PORTAL wool levy payers to experience the benefits Sydney Lawrie for their contribution and for In October, AWI detailed its Review of of Merino wool in this innovative way, at cost encouraging participation and ensuring the Performance (ROP) implementation plan for price, we have produced an exclusive jacket voting process was conducted in compliance all 82 recommendations in the independent – the Woolmark Optim WR jacket – that is with the regulations. ROP. The implementation plan specifies now available for purchase online at www. how the organisation will address all 82 wool.com/store. This is similar to the popular AWI ANNUAL recommendations included in the ROP. To jacket that we made available to woolgrowers GENERAL MEETING aid transparency and information flow with two years ago. woolgrowers and industry, AWI has launched AWI held its 2018 AGM on Friday 23 November in Sydney – see opposite page. At the AGM, a Review of Performance Implementation POSITIVE PRICES I gave a detailed presentation of the activities Portal (ROPIP) that reports on our progress DURING 2018 of the company during 2017/18. Woolgrowers implementing the 82 recommendations. The As 2018 draws to a close, we can reflect on who were unable to attend the AGM in person ROPIP is available on the AWI website at another very positive year for woolgrowers. were able to view the AGM proceedings via http://rop.wool.com Due to improved demand, the EMI has been webcast. This was the seventh time that very healthy for the entire year, especially AWI has webcast its AGM. As well as being REGISTER NOW the second half – with the EMI reaching broadcast live, a recording of the webcast of FOR WOOLQ above the $20 mark for the very first time. the 2018 AGM is available to be viewed on the This consistently high EMI has been very The final piece of WoolQ functionality, WoolQ AWI website at www.wool.com/2018agm rewarding to watch during the year and, more Market, will soon be released, completing the importantly, very rewarding financially for suite of tools on the platform. The WoolQ BECOME AN AWI Market aims to be a centralised, online many woolgrowers. SHAREHOLDER marketplace for Australian wool. The two- We hope that 2019 continues on this positive AWI shareholders are able to shape the tiered platform will provide both a bulletin note. And with this in mind, I wish you a very decision making process of the company, board of buying and selling interest accessible happy Christmas and prosperous New Year.
UPFRONT 5 “I am delighted that in 2017-18 growers were able to reap the benefits of an increase in the average EMI of 23% from the previous year,” Mr McCullough said. “We recognise the drought conditions facing many woolgrowers, and we are committed to investing your levies effectively and efficiently to deliver results for all woolgrowers. “Investment in research and development, and extension by AWI in its Sheep Production and Woolgrower Services portfolios, increased by 27% last year, delivering a range of outputs to help woolgrowers improve their on-farm productivity and profitability. This AWI Chairman Colette Garnsey OAM includes ongoing investment in Lifetime Ewe addressing the AWI 2018 AGM in November. Management training, which has resulted in more than 4,300 growers undertaking the hands-on course. NEW ERA BEGINS AT AWI “In the off-farm R&D area, we have added to the growing number of research findings supporting the health and wellbeing benefits At the 2018 AWI Annual General Meeting (AGM) on of wool products. And we are working with 23 November, newly appointed AWI chairman Colette leading brands such as adidas and Max Mara in new product developments. Garnsey signalled a new era for the peak wool industry body, telling AWI shareholders the company is committed “Our Marketing portfolio has continued to partner with premium brands and to greater engagement with Australian woolgrowers. strategically invest in targeted campaigns – through both digital and traditional channels – to help create demand for Australian wool N ew AWI chairman Ms Colette Garnsey used her speech at last month’s AWI AGM to signal that it was a time of change at AWI. Turning to the results of WoolPoll 2018, Ms Garnsey said AWI was encouraged and humbled that the vast majority of amongst consumers in key markets globally. “The sports, outdoor and athleisure woolgrowers saw the value in AWI’s work markets are especially exciting markets that “Our priority is to be a company that is and were prepared to contribute towards the are helping drive up demand for Merino engaged with all of its stakeholders – company’s R&D and marketing efforts on wool. We have been increasing collaboration woolgrowers and shareholders, of course, but their behalf. with leading manufacturers and brands in also the Government, farmers’ groups, the these sectors to promote the premium natural media, our supporters and, yes, those who “But do not doubt for a minute that we benefits of wool as a performance fibre.” hold a more critical view of our performance,” have not heard the message that we must Ms Garnsey told the meeting. do more to earn and retain the trust and Mr McCullough reiterated the comments confidence of our shareholders,” Ms Garnsey of AWI’s Chairman, reaffirming the “All have a stake in the future of the company, told shareholders. company’s commitment to consultation all want the very best for the wool industry – with growers and to continuing to and all deserve a say and to be heard.” “We are determined to maintain the be transparent, lean and efficient in momentum in our international marketing their operations. Ms Garnsey told the meeting one of AWI’s efforts and in our investments in R&D. highest priorities is responding to, and “AWI is acutely aware of its direct actioning, the 82 recommendations from the “We must give you the confidence that your accountability to woolgrowers. We are Review of Performance commissioned by the levies are being invested effectively and committed to listening to woolgrowers, to Federal Government. efficiently. AWI must continue to run lean, hearing and actioning their feedback and with every dollar spent wisely and every to working together to build a stronger “We are already 33% of the way through the dollar accounted for. industry for everyone in the supply chain,” implementation process,” she said. Mr McCullough outlined. “All stakeholders can expect to see and hear “For example, since the Review, we have more from me and my AWI colleagues as “We will continue to work hard to build introduced a board skills matrix in the 2018 we seek to unite the wool industry behind a resilience into our research, development Annual Report that will help ensure we common goal: to help woolgrowers be their best and marketing investments. AWI will have the right mix of skills and experience and get the best returns for their hard work. continue to work hard to put the interests of on our board. And we have appointed a woolgrowers first.” general manager of operations – a new role “Consultation, of course, is pointless without that will allow our CEO to focus on more transparency and I want an AWI that is AWI shareholders who were unable to strategic activities. open and accountable and today is a step in attend the AGM in person were able to that process.” view the AGM proceedings via webcast. “Of the 82 recommendations in the Report, As well as being broadcast live, a recording there are 75 which we have accepted and actioned. Of the remaining ones, there CEO HIGHLIGHTS of the webcast of the 2018 AGM is available are two that are the subject of continued A STRONG YEAR to be viewed on the AWI website at www.wool.com/2018agm negotiations with the Department. There are In his address to shareholders, AWI CEO also five we expect to put to shareholders at a Mr Stuart McCullough pointed to the MORE INFORMATION general meeting in mid-March after a period record highs hit by wool prices in the View a recording of the AGM of consultation.” recent months. at www.wool.com/2018agm
6 OFF FARM LIVE & BREATHE CAMPAIGN AWI’s Live & Breathe campaign set out to educate a new generation of consumers about the technical performance benefits of Australian Merino wool. In addition to the rollout of the short campaign film, AWI also ran an outdoor advertising campaign and partnered with leading media and influencers across the world to promote Merino wool. I n September, AWI’s marketing subsidiary The Woolmark Company unveiled its first direct consumer marketing campaign in the most engaged market, with San Francisco the most engaged city followed closely by OUTDOOR ADVERTISING New York City. The film won a prestigious nearly 10 years, championing the technical gold award at the World Luxury Awards held There were more than 325 instances of benefits of Merino wool. The overarching in Monaco. outdoor advertising across the world. In the message of the campaign is that wool is USA, billboards and bus stop adverts were breathable, making it the perfect fibre for focuses in New York City and San Francisco. performance and athleisure. Tube stations in London were taken over by wool, and billboards championed wool’s Importantly, the campaign set out to not message across Tokyo. These locations were only drive awareness of the fibre but also strategically selected with the latest heatmap influence the purchasing decisions of technology to identify high-traffic commute global consumers. areas. About 20 million people have seen this outdoor advertising. The campaign film was initially rolled out across social media, and more than eight Research shows that millennials – our target million people across the world have seen audience – commute to work on public the film, with 877,000 shares and reactions An example of the Live & Breathe campaign transport or by foot and it was our aim to across social media channels. The USA was advertising in San Francisco. disrupt the commuter journey. We were able #LIVEANDBREATHE WOOL ADVOCATES As part of AWI’s Live & Breathe global consumer campaign, a broad range of key influencers across the world championed the natural performance benefits of wool. From hiking a national park in Colorado, to climbing in the French Alps, or practicing yoga in Japan, LAURA WHITMORE JAKE GUZMAN these key opinion leaders ACTRESS AND TV HOST OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE PHOTOGRAPHER tagged #LiveandBreathe on @thewhitmore @jguzmannn Instagram and shared their 549K Instagram followers 101K Instagram followers experiences of wool with “Mornin! Friday vibes in Merino wool Hiking throughout the Pacific Northwest their fans. which is a sustainable alternative of the USA: to synthetic fabrics making it Here is a small selection of better for the environment and me! “I’ve teamed up with The Woolmark Company their Instagram images… on a recent adventure to test out clothing And The Woolmark Company works made of Merino wool – the breathable fabric with Australian woolgrowers who was extremely comfortable.” ensure the highest standards of animal welfare.”
OFF 7 FARM MEDIA PARTNERSHIPS The Woolmark Company also partnered with leading media outlets – both traditional and online – including Elle China, The New York Times, LADBible and T Magazine, reaching nearly two million readers worldwide. “I’ve been wanting to write a wool sports story for so long. I tried a few years ago Well known exercise coach Roger Frampton, but there just weren’t enough big brands pictured wearing wool on a trek up Mount Snowdon in Wales, was one of more than 52 top doing it yet. Not the case anymore.” tier influencers throughout the world promoting Courtney Rubin, Freelance Journalist wool during the Live & Breathe campaign. for New York Times and Fast Company to identify commuters who passed by our wool product, reaching 45 million people outdoor advertising and then target them across social media. “I never knew that wool had so many with the campaign film, which resulted in Nine events were held for influencers and benefits until I learned about it from three million views of the film. media across the USA, UK, China and Tokyo. the Woolmark team. Who knew that the fabric you wore could make such a INFLUENCING THE From outdoor fitness classes in Shanghai and difference during a workout.” KEY INFLUENCERS Beijing, to summitting Mount Snowdon in the Sam Todd, Social Media Editor for GQ UK and trail runs in Colorado, participants An influencer campaign of some of were given wool-rich outdoor-wear to the world’s leading fitness stars helped experience first-hand the performance MORE INFORMATION connect commercial wool product to consumers in an approachable, authentic benefits of the fibre. www.woolmark.com/liveandbreathe way. These influencers and key opinion leaders drove consideration for product by validating the message of wool. See below for a small selection of how these influencers championed #liveandbreathe on Instagram. Altogether, there were 52 top tier The Woolmark Company partnered with Amazon to create a hub of influencers and 25 media working out in shoppable wool products. The Amazon.com display banners drove consumers to the Amazon landing page whilst consumers were driven wool. The influencers were engaged to host to the wool hub from other sources, such as email newsletters and events and wear-test commercially available online advertising. See www.amazon.com/adlp/woolmark KIRA STOKES ANTON KRUPICKA MORGAN TYLER ERIC UNDERWOOD CELEBRITY TRAINER MOUNTAIN ULTRA-RUNNER YOGA INSTRUCTOR THE ROYAL BALLET @kirastokesfit @antonkrupicka @findingmorgantyler @ericunderwood 268K Instagram followers 144K Instagram followers 497K Instagram followers 66.5K Instagram followers Embracing nature in Hudson, On the summit of Aiguille de l’M “Feeling extra thankful “Merino wool activewear is NY: “Natural fibers in a in Chamonix, France: to have warm, cozy and naturally elastic, making it natural environment: win breathable clothes after ideal attire to get the best “For long days in the mountains, I win. From bootcamp, to yoga, partnering with The out of your workout. The find wool’s natural fibers to be the to hiking, my Merino wool Woolmark Company this fabric reacts to your body best at moisture management gear kept me comfy, cozy, autumn. Easy to go straight temperature, absorbing and sustained comfort.” warm and stylish. Needless home, to hiking, to popping sweat whilst remaining to say I’m totally STOKED on into yoga poses in this Merino odour free.” working out in wool.” wool athleisure wear.”
8 OFF FARM What better way to showcase wool’s performance benefits than have commercially available wool products tested by a group of top athletes – which is exactly what The Woolmark Company did as part of its Live & Breathe marketing campaign. ELITE ATHLETES PUT WOOL TO THE TEST High jumper Amy Pejkovic wearing the latest P.E Nation leggings and crop (see page 10). Accomplished high jumper Amy Pejkovic, pictured wearing adidas T-shirt, Merino Country Three-time Olympic middle distance runner leggings and Röjk Badland Jacket (made using 2018 Commonwealth Games 100-metre semi- Jeff Riseley, pictured wearing Merino Country the same fabric technology as the Woolmark WP finalist Rohan Browning, pictured wearing an shorts and XTM long-sleeve shirt. Optim jacket – see opposite). adidas T-shirt and Wildnerness Wear leggings. W ith its unrivalled breathability, moisture management properties and odour control, there’s no denying that and stretched, climbed and crunched at Sydney’s historic Carriageworks, wearing lightweight commercially available pieces performance in elite sport is all about being in a comfortable mental and physical space. When you’re behind the start line and all the wool is the ultimate performance fibre. To from the likes of adidas, XTM, ioMerino work has been done, the only thing you can prove it, AWI’s marketing arm, The Woolmark and Ibex. change is what you wear.” Company, put wool to the ultimate test – as part of the company’s Live & Breathe The series of photos were rolled out via Jeff agrees, noting in particular wool’s ability consumer marketing campaign – with three The Woolmark Company’s social media to regulate body temperature and minimise Australian athletes wearing head-to-toe wool channels, and each athlete also championed moisture. “I typically find it difficult to find for their workouts. the photos and the fibre to their own highly a product that can keep me warm early in a engaged audience, via their own channels. run when I’m still cold, and that can cope once A series of photos, and video, were shot of I’ve warmed up so that I don’t overheat or three elite Australian athletes: three-time THE ATHLETES’ sweat. Wool minimises the need for multiple Olympic middle distance runner Jeff Riseley, VERDICT layers that need to be shed as a run goes on, 2018 Commonwealth Games 100-metre semi- making it really versatile.” finalist Rohan Browning, and accomplished “I think that people hold the misconception high jumper Amy Pejkovic. that wool can be cumbersome and itchy, Amy commented: “Breathable, lightweight, which couldn’t be further from the truth,” durable and 100% Australian Merino wool – The photos captured them as they sprinted said Rohan of his experience. “High perfect for summer workouts too.”
OFF 9 FARM WOOLMARK OPTIM WR JACKET UNISEX STYLE 100% Merino wool fabric AVAILABLE IN S, M, L, XL, XXL Water and wind resistant Hood with adjustable elasticated drawstrings – The WOOLMARK OPTIM WR JACKET which can be folded away has been produced exclusively for this in a zipped hood pocket. woolgrower offer, to enable wool levy payers to experience the benefits of Merino wool in an innovative way. The fabric used in this Woolmark PURE NEW WOOL (with certified jacket has been commercially the Woolmark logo) printed launched and is being used in both the down the right-hand sleeve, and the Woolmark logo fashion and outdoor markets. printed on left chest UNIQUE, HIGH Front zip PERFORMANCE FABRIC Zipped side pockets • Resistant to water and wind, while retaining all Merino wool’s fine properties, such as breathability. • Uses the latest OptimTM technology – the Merino wool is pre-stretched and spun into yarn before being woven. • An immensely dense fabric, due to the combination of a dense weave and fine yarns. Lightweight fabric • Made from 100 per cent Australian (190gsm) Merino wool of 16-micron. NFC chip on the cuff AVAILABLE IN 6 COLOUR COMBINATIONS enabling smart phone app user to discover the production process of the jacket, an augmented reality experience and other information about the jacket Cuffs are adjustable with Velcro Red with Navy with Blue with Navy with Beige with Red with white trim red trim red trim yellow trim navy trim navy trim HOW TO PURCHASE $185* The jackets can be purchased only online at: www.wool.com/store for wool Payment by only Visa or Mastercard is accepted. levy payers * Prices include GST and shipping; shipping is only available within Australia. ($245* for the public)
10 OFF FARM P.E NATION RUNS WITH WOOL Leading Australian sportswear label P.E Nation has released a premium Merino wool activewear collection, in collaboration with AWI, championing Merino wool as the original performance fibre. A ustralian street-inspired luxury sportswear label P.E. Nation has turned to Merino consumers to buy on www.pe-nation.com. The collection is also stocked online at www. net-a-porter.com and www.farfetch.com. wool to give its latest offering the natural, innovative advantage its In recent years, the activewear market’s customers seek. understanding of, and appreciation for, wool has grown exponentially, with recent Collaborating with AWI’s marketing innovations – particularly in the seamless arm, The Woolmark Company, space – contributing to this significant growth. P.E Nation has a created a six- piece premium, high-performance Seamless apparel – such as items from womenswear collection, made from P.E Nation’s wool-rich collection – is unique technical Merino wool fabrics. because it allows for a combination of different patterns and knit structures, in Certified by The Woolmark Company different colours, on a single piece of fabric. – which guarantees quality assurance – By engineering a garment to have features the collection includes high-rise seamless such as compression and breathability leggings and a crop top with an innovative points on a single structure, it allows for compression knit structure along with a next-level performance and a new level of series of Merino wool knits. styled comfort. “It’s here where the perfect synergy lies – Fronted by international supermodel Jess quintessentially Australian brands coming Hart, the P.E Nation campaign images remain together to champion the notion of natural completely un-retouched and are a true strength, grace and femininity – for all reflection of working with the 100% natural, women, every day,” explained P.E Nation renewable and biodegradable Merino wool co-founder Pip Edwards. fibre and capture the love of natural beauty. This new six-piece collection marks the Jess is well known in the fashion industry, second time P.E Nation has worked alongside having modeled for brands including Victoria’s The Woolmark Company, aligning their Secret, Louis Vuitton, Dolce and Gabbana and belief in authenticity, quality and technical Max Mara – and she has graced the covers innovation to ensure the latest cutting-edge of Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Harper’s BAZAAR, wool fabrics and yarns were sourced for Marie Claire and Elle. She was born in Sydney the collection. and went to school in Melbourne before she was discovered and became a model. AWI CEO Stuart McCullough said the collection demonstrates how P.E Nation MORE INFORMATION continues to reimagine how the market www.pe-nation.com sees activewear and pushes the boundaries on design and construction of high- performance fabrications. “Staying true to P.E Nation’s street-inspired sportswear aesthetic, this collection offers global consumers the opportunity to experience the natural best in sports International supermodel Jess Hart and activewear,” he said. fronts the new P.E Nation x Woolmark performance collection. The collection was launched The six-piece during New York Fashion collection is Week in September available to buy on and is available for www.pe-nation.com
OFF 11 FARM ACROSS MONGOLIA WITH MERINO And they’re off! Competitors on their 1,000km race across the Mongolian steppe. During their whole journey they didn’t pass through any gate and they saw less that 5km of fencing. Four cousins from country Merino wool was the only thing that would be One sheep producer donated the profit able to get them through the varying climate, raised from selling 100 lambs. Elders, NSW took part in this year’s keeping in mind, no showers or baths would the producer’s broker, matched this and Mongolian Derby – racing greet them at the end of the day. donated its share in these proceeds whilst on horseback for eight days the transport company Goulburn Livestock AWI facilitated a partnership for the team across a thousand kilometers with performance wear brand Helly Hansen donated the cost of freight of getting the of the Mongolian steppe lambs to market. who kitted out the team with base-layer – all while wearing Merino performance Merino sportswear. Another woolgrower from NSW, Richard wool base-layers. “We could only pack a couple of items to keep Walker, donated the proceeds of two of their best superfine wool bales to the cause, and under the weight limit, so we took a Merino hundreds of family, friends and complete base-layer long-sleeved shirt, short-sleeved T he Mongolian Derby is known as the shirt and full-length tights. We rode in the strangers generously donated to the Ride for longest and toughest horse race on earth short sleeve shirt every single day and slept in a Cure cause. – navigating a course that recreates the horse the long-sleeved shirt and tights each night,” Henry said that the team had been truly messenger system developed by Ghengis explained Ed. humbled by the overwhelming support they Khan in 1224. “We found that wearing wool kept our body had received. Riders square up to 1000km of Mongolian temperatures balanced throughout the day wilderness on semi-wild horses, changing “To date, we have raised more than $189,000 whilst at night when the mercury dropped steed every 40km. The terrain includes high for MS Research Australia. Thank you to we were grateful for the long-sleeved Merino passes, huge valleys, wooded hills, river everyone who donated, supported us in the shirt; it was like a second skin.” crossings, wetland, dunes and of course lead up to the race and cheered us on as we rode across the steppe. The support we have open steppe. GREAT SUPPORT received is a testament to the generosity of Riders navigate and survive on their own wits Being impressed by the performance of the the community around us.” and skill, living among the herders. There’s no Merino wool gear was not the only welcome marked course, no packed lunches, no beds to surprise that met the team. The donations, MORE INFORMATION sleep in. This is no pony trek or guided tour large and small from across the country went Read more about the team’s race, and to – only half the competitors entering the race above and beyond their imagination. donate, visit www.arideforacure.com complete it. This might seem daunting to the average Henry, Jack, Ed and Rob wearing their Helly Hansen Merino wool base-layers, with two local herders during a break in the race. person. But for four cousins, hailing from Breadalbane and Gundy in NSW, it was a challenge that paled in comparison to the Multiple Sclerosis (MS) that afflicts their father and uncle Rob Bell every day. Henry Bell (Rob’s son) and his three cousins Rob, Ed and Jack Archibald decided to dedicate their Mongolian Derby challenge to Rob, and raise funds for Kiss Goodbye to MS, the MS Research Australia’s fundraising initiative. The initial goal for their ‘Ride for a Cure’ campaign was $100,000. MERINO A MUST As it came closer to the start date, the team realised they were going to need gear that could keep them cool as they rode all day, warm at night and water and wind resistant if they were going to get through the volatile Mongolian storms.
12 OFF FARM T ake a look at two of the biggest trends in the market right now. development program,” explained AWI CEO Stuart McCullough. “It provides an excellent opportunity for young talent to find a place for Firstly, performance apparel is one of the their exciting innovation on the international fastest growing sectors in the global textile stage, whilst pushing the possibilities of industry, which can be attributed to an Merino wool into unchartered territories.” emergence of new technologies, new sporting trends and a shift in peoples’ attitude towards To enhance the impact of the initiative, The health and fitness. Woolmark Company is proud to partner with leading global sportswear brand adidas for Secondly, consumers are becoming more the competition. Both companies believe aware of the impact their purchasing that exciting innovations with wool – such as decisions have on the planet and are smart textiles; nano-technology; and design, demanding natural alternatives for their finishing, and production developments – product and apparel needs. will create solutions that meet and surpass To take advantage of these two mega- consumers’ new expectations and values movements in the market, AWI’s subsidiary for activewear. The Woolmark Company in January 2018 launched a new initiative – the Woolmark STUDENTS TAKE UP Performance Challenge – which aims to THE CHALLENGE increase the demand for Australian Merino The inaugural competition that ran through wool in the sports and outdoor sectors. 2018 was open to students in Europe and So what is the Woolmark Performance North America and attracted 510 student Challenge? It is an annual competition for registrations from 58 universities. The second tertiary students to develop innovative year’s competition, again in partnership with new product applications within the sports adidas, has expanded to include tertiary and performance market, by applying students from across the world, including the science and performance benefits of Australia. Australian Merino wool. Students studying a wide range of specialisms “The Woolmark Performance Challenge – from product design, industrial design, is an exciting new phase of our product advanced materials, and performance/ WOOLMARK PERFORMANCE CHALLENGE The Woolmark Performance Challenge – in partnership The finalists of the inaugural Woolmark with adidas – is a new annual design competition for Performance Challenge. tertiary students, aimed at pushing the boundaries of product innovation in sportswear.
OFF 13 FARM product engineering, to textile futures, Course. In addition, a series of monthly The award was judged by a highly respected innovation and new applications – are all webinars were delivered to students by panel of judges including Senior Design invited to take part in the competition. industry experts – discussing topics such Director at adidas, Tillmann Studrucker; Talent as the benefits and future of wool, through Acquisition Manager at adidas, Louis de Vos; to the importance of innovation and Special Projects Editor at Sports Illustrated, “We need to develop an alternative to sustainability. Jamie Lisanti; Editor in Chief of outdoor the massive use of man-made fibres industry news publisher SNEWS, Kristin used in sports apparel. With the newest Once submissions for this year’s competition Hostetter; Chief Innovation Officer at Future innovations within Merino wool we can closed in May, judges deliberated hard as to Tech Lab, Amanda Parkes; Creative Director now create high-performance products who should be the 10 finalists. The chosen & Owner of Dyne (winner of this year’s with low environmental impact.” finalists were from universities in the UK, International Woolmark Prize Innovation 2018 finalist Christel Thue Høgsted, France, Germany, Netherlands, Switzerland Award), Christopher Bevans; and AWI’s University of Oregon, USA and the USA. General Manager of Processing Innovation & The Woolmark Company hosted a two-day Education Extension, Julie Davies. workshop in London in September to ensure “The students are encouraged to look beyond each of the finalists was ready to present “My main goal was to make a textile existing product offerings and think long- their ideas to the judging panel at the finals that connects and communicates with term. They are asked to consider how the event in Denver in November. The two-day the body; and Merino wool supports impact of technological advances and shifts workshop brought together experts from the wearer’s needs in any situation or in consumer attitudes, environmental and/or the sports, textiles and fashion industries, environment to enhance performance.” cultural issues, would affect their concept and including former Topman Creative Director, its value,” Stuart said. 2018 winner Alicia Ferreira de Sousa Gordon Richardson; Eco-Age founder and L’École de la Maille de Paris, France “The Woolmark Performance Challenge not creative director, Livia Firth; outdoor apparel only provides a unique learning experience company Finisterre’s founder, Tom Kay; and for the students to push the limits of product head of fashion and technology at Stoll, Given the possibility of the winning entry innovation, but also provides the winner with Joerg Hartmann. being taken up for further commercial a financial reward and potential for further collaboration, we can’t reveal the details collaboration with The Woolmark Company of the entry just yet. But the judges’ “I don’t feel like this is a competition and adidas.” comments might give you a hint of what at all. We’ve formed a community the entry offered. to share knowledge for shaping the A LEARNING future of sports.” “As an aerobic gymnast, Alicia brought her EXPERIENCE 2018 finalist Youngmi Kim knowledge of the body’s movement and The students are provided with an extensive Institut Français de la Mode, France combined it with science to highlight the range of educational resources about wool functionality and benefits of Australian – to not only arm them with information to Merino wool’s properties. She found a way assist in their competition entry, but to also AND THE to bring this together with a unique and encourage and inspire them to think about WINNER IS… technical innovation, that is applicable to wool in their future careers. many sports,” said judge Jamie Lisanti of Alicia Ferreira de Sousa from L’École de la Sports Illustrated. To kick-start their journey in the competition Maille de Paris was announced the winner and stimulate their imagination, The of the inaugural Woolmark Performance Fellow judge Tillmann Studrucker of adidas Woolmark Company encouraged all the 510 Challenge at a special event during last commented: “It is incredible how many students who entered the 2018 competition to month’s Outdoor Retailer trade show in great innovations we saw from students in take the company’s online Wool Appreciation Denver, Colorado. this open collaboration between adidas and The Woolmark Company. It was not easy to nominate the final winner. In the end, we went for the person who shared the number one principle of our founder Adi Dassler – ‘only the best for the athlete’ – helping them to perform better in their sport using the benefits of wool. I want to thank everyone involved in making this competition a success and for giving these students a platform to show their talent.” As well as the opportunity to sell her winning idea, Alicia will receive a cash prize of €10,000, a three- month internship with adidas, along with ongoing industry and training support from The Woolmark Company. MORE INFORMATION Registrations for the next edition of the competition are now open Former Topman Creative Director and British The inaugural Woolmark Performance and tertiary students from across the Fashion Council member Gordon Richardson Challenge winner Alicia Ferreira de Sousa. mentors the 10 finalists as part of a two-day Photo credit: Scott Martin/Hed Hi Media world, including Australia, are invited to workshop hosted by The Woolmark Company apply at www.woolmarkchallenge.com. in London.
14 OFF FARM AUSTRALIAN WOOL-GROWING RECEIVES Australian woolgrowers Richard and Jenny ECO AWARD Weatherly (left) and Vanessa and Matt Dunbabin (right) accepted the inaugural Eco Stewardship Award on behalf of all Australian woolgrowers. The award was presented by Cate Blanchett (centre) at this year’s Green Carpet Fashion Awards that were held in front of a packed house Australian woolgrowers have been awarded with the of celebrities and fashion industry icons at La Scala opera house in Milan. inaugural Eco Stewardship Award at this year’s Green Carpet Fashion Awards held as the conclusion of Milan Every day, woolgrowers across the country Fashion Week. The award recognises the commitment to are caring for their animals and the land in the environment demonstrated by the tens of thousands a passionate and sustainable way, ensuring of woolgrowers across the country. that when you are wearing wool, you are also caring for the environment. Woolgrowers have always known this is the case – and it is fantastic that this has been recognised by the T he Green Carpet Fashion Awards – often referred to as the ‘Oscars of sustainable fashion’ – is a star-studded celebration of that is foundational – the production of Merino wool,” said Blanchett during the award’s presentation. fashion industry.” The Weatherlys echoed this sentiment, saying: the best in sustainable fashion. It is a joint “We are very honoured to be representing initiative of the National Chamber of Italian “An ambitious program of reform has other woolgrowers, who have shown Fashion and sustainability consultants seen the best Australian woolgrowers set remarkable stewardship of their country Eco-Age, headed by global sustainability new benchmarks for producing this most and to some degree to be representing Livia champion Livia Firth. precious natural fibre. Of course, nobody Firth’s innovative and brilliant work as well tells this tale better than those working to as The Woolmark Company’s commitment in In Milan to accept the Eco Stewardship Award progress this critical movement.” this regard.” on behalf of Australia’s woolgrowers were Matt and Vanessa Dunbabin from ‘Bangor’ Both the Dunbabins and the Weatherlys Despite being a new addition to the fashion at Dunalley in Tasmania, alongside Richard have actively demonstrated their efforts calendar, the awards have established and Jenny Weatherly from ‘Connewarran’ at to regenerate the land and increase the themselves as one of the world’s foremost Mortlake in Victoria. To add to the prestigious biodiversity of their properties across the sustainability and fashion events. This year’s honour, the award was presented by Oscar- years – see opposite page. event attracted the biggest names in fashion winning Australian actor Cate Blanchett. and entertainment, including Colin Firth, “It is an honour to be awarded the Eco Elle Macpherson, Cindy Crawford, Julianne “It gives me particular pleasure to present Stewardship Award,” explain the Dunbabins. Moore and Alison Brie. tonight’s Eco Stewardship award to a group “This award not only recognises our work of people from my native Australia who are at ‘Bangor’, but also shines a light more MORE INFORMATION genuinely leading the sustainability charge, broadly on world-leading sustainable wool www.eco-age.com/ and in an aspect of the fashion industry production happening right across Australia. green-carpet-fashion-awards FOREVER TASMANIA SCREENED DURING MILAN FASHION WEEK As part of Milan Fashion Week, sustainable documentary follows the journey to fashion consultancy brand Eco-Age held Tasmania of Creative Director and Founder a screening of its short documentary of Eco-Age, Livia Firth, for a first-hand look at titled Fashion-Scapes: Forever Tasmania, where and how Merino wool is produced. supported by AWI’s marketing arm The Woolmark Company. “In Tasmania I found growers producing fine wool for the global apparel industry with a deep Over the past decade, Eco-Age has become understanding of the need to work within the known for championing sustainable earth’s biological capacity,” Livia said. production and for telling the ecological and human stories behind the clothes we “They were clear that their role was not just wear. The Fashion-Scapes: Forever Tasmania as fibre producers, but equally as custodians of this incredible landscape. When someone has changed over 20 years to embrace (Top) Eco-Age’s Livia Firth with Matt Dunbabin sustainability so deeply, that is very moving on ‘Bangor’ in Tasmania – pictured in the eco- – not to mention, instructive.” documentary ‘Fashion-Scapes: Forever Tasmania’. (Bottom) Matt and Vanessa Dunbabin chatting with Eco-Age’s Livia Firth and her husband, actor MORE INFORMATION Colin Firth, after the special screening of the eco- www.eco-age.com/news/ documentary during Milan Fashion Week. fashion-scapes-forever-tasmania
OFF 15 FARM MEET THE GROWERS WHO REPRESENTED AUSTRALIA AT THE AWARDS vegetation, planted them out, guarded them against pests and fenced them against larger grazing animals. This was very time consuming and very expensive. Together with a group of like-minded farmers, we developed a machine which would sow the seed directly where it was to grow, which enabled us to sow many kilometres of seed- line in a day, establishing good shelterbelts of mixed species and good understory at minimal cost. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH MERINOS AT CONNEWARRAN? When we started farming, we were strongly advised not to try breeding Merinos, that they had been tried in the 1930s and had failed to Jenny and Richard Weatherly be productive. However, no other breed was going to cut sufficient wool of high enough RICHARD AND JENNY WEATHERLY WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU TO quality to be profitable. Our intention was ‘Connewarran’, Mortlake, Victoria BE RECOGNISED FOR THE ECO to breed a Merino that could utilise the STEWARDSHIP AWARD? environment and to create an environment Situated near Mortlake in western Victoria, that supported the Merino. We saw it as Richard and Jenny Weatherly have produced It means a huge amount. We are very managing an ecosystem and harvesting a flourishing property, one built on respect honoured and very proud. Personally, production from the ecosystem, so they were for the land and its natural inhabitants. The it has been a fascinating and educative never seen as separate entities. They would importance of the environment has always journey developing ‘Connewarran’, with the each be diminished if they were. been at the forefront of their, and their son assistance, mentoring and advice of some and business manager Hamish’s, minds. The extraordinarily well-informed and generous MORE INFORMATION couple established one and a half million trees people to whom we owe a great deal. Richard and Jenny were featured in a and added pastures, wetlands and drainage short film by AWI telling in their own – and their Merino flock happily shares the HOW DID YOU START TO RESTORE words how they built a thriving Merino land with a flourishing abundance of wildlife CONNEWARRAN? wool-growing farm based on respect for including emus, koalas and a quarter of all Initially, we grew trees from seed that we the land. View the video at www.youtube. bird species in Australia. collected locally from the scarce remnant com/thewoolmarkcompany before us. And we hope to give our children the opportunity to continue living and working at ‘Bangor’. Every decision we make on the farm is viewed through a long-term lens. WHAT LAND CONSERVATION HAVE YOU DONE AT BANGOR? At ‘Bangor’, we have voluntarily placed more than 2,000 hectares of native forest and grassland into conservation covenants. These are permanent reserves, protecting our most precious plants, animals and historic sites forever. As a farmer, caring for our land is paramount – and for farmers, this comes naturally. We rely on our land as our home, workplace and livelihood. Looking after our patch of the world means it will look after us, Vanessa and Matt Dunbabin and we can continue to produce great wool MATT AND VANESSA DUNBABIN plants covering the soil also reduce dust and for people to wear. ‘Bangor’, Dunalley, Tasmania dirt contamination of the fleece, ensuring wool remains bright and lustrous. WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO PROTECT ‘Bangor’ is a 6,000 ha property that includes TASMANIA’S NATIVE FLORA 5,100 ha of native forests and grassland, WHY IS LAND AND ENVIRONMENT AND FAUNA? 2,100 ha of permanent forest reserves and CARE SO IMPORTANT? ‘Bangor’ has a diverse range of habitats, 35 km of coastline. The Dunbabins run a flock Most farms in Australia are family farms, and including coastal wetlands, native forests and of 5,000 superfine Merinos, which produce farmers have a long connection with their grasslands. These have always been home some of the world’s finest, softest and land. Growing up on a farm gives you a deep to Tasmanian native animals and plants, brightest wool. The extensive areas of native care and understanding of the land, and its including many endangered species. As land pastures at ‘Bangor’ are ideal for growing this health is critical to the success of the farm. We owners, it is our responsibility to manage our type of wool. They provide even nutrition know that we are just the current custodians land so that wildlife and plants can thrive. year-round, which in turn allows the wool of our special part of the world, which has It is part of what makes ‘Bangor’ such a fibre to grow evenly and strongly. Native been cared for by the people who have come special place to live and work.
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