CHAMONIX & COGNE ICE CLIMBING WEEK - 2016 COURSE NOTES

CHAMONIX &
COGNE
ICE CLIMBING
WEEK
2016 COURSE NOTES

Chamonix & Cogne Ice Climbing Week
                      7 days (5 days instruction and 2 travel days)
                                          Course Notes
                      All material Copyright © Adventure Consultants Ltd 2015/2016

Summary of the Course

You will enjoy some of the best ice climbing venues on
earth, when you participate in our Chamonix & Cogne
Ice Climbing Week!

Envisage staying in charming local hotels with
numerous ice venues at all levels just out the door!

We begin the week by sorting your equipment and
going through the basics at a small ice crag in Chamonix
on day one. We then travel a short distance into the
famous Cogne region in Italy.

These areas present us with a huge variety of ice routes
leaving us spoilt for choice when it comes to the daily
programme. We start out on easier routes and
gradually build up the intensity to suit your
development during the week. Without fail, people
love to tell us that the routes that looked intimidating at               1.Climbing Lillaz Gully
the start of the week are fun climbs by the end!

 You can decide whether to utilise the week for learning
and developing your skills, or you may simply want to
get some routes under your belt and push your climbing
standard. Many climbers who return each winter will
have their guide lead routes of ever increasing difficulty
as their confidence develops. Others enjoy learning skills
to enable them to progress their own leading capability,
where the guide will lead the more difficult pitches on a
longer route.

You’ll be surprised with how well you progress during
the week and your guide will work with you to help you
                                                                 2. Staying centred over your feet reduces the
                                                                               strain on the arms

achieve your goals. Whichever approach you decide, there is a lot of flexibility with the Ice Climbing
Week. You can come with a friend for 2:1 climbing with a guide, or by yourself for 1:1 climbing.

At the end of each day, you return to your hotel for a beer and wholesome meal at the climber-
friendly family-run hotels in Chamonix and Cogne. Rooms are in twin-shared B&B basis in Chamonix,
whereas dinner is also provided in Cogne. We provide lunches throughout the course. Should you
desire a higher level of accommodation, we can upgrade you to single accommodation or a higher
class of hotel to whatever standard you prefer.

Skills that will be covered during the week

       Ice climbing skills and movement
       Refreshing rope work and basic skills
       Independent risk assessment
       Leading on ice
       Descending steep terrain
       Mountaineering skills relevant to approach and egress

Typical Course Programme

Day 0. Sunday
Arrive into Chamonix. Hotel night.

Day 1. Monday
The team meets at 8:00am at the hotel for a briefing. Your
guide will go over the activities for the week and answer any
last minute questions. After organising any kit you need to hire,
we drive the short distance up the valley to Argentière and
then take a 30 minute walk to the Crèmerie ice climbing area.
There are several short routes here from Grade 3 (easy) to
Grade 5 (hard), so this is a good venue to practice ice climbing            3. Climber-friendly local hotel
techniques and get warmed up for the week. Return to Chamonix.                     accommodation
Hotel night.

Day 2. Tuesday
We drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Italy to the Cogne
Valley. Although there are some very hard mixed climbs in the
region such as the` X Files’; one of the first M10s climbed in
1997 by the eccentric Stevie Haston, there is also an abundance
of climbs ranging from the easy training routes through to the
desperates! Perhaps today you may attempt Lillaz Gully, a
200m Grade 4. Overnight in Cogne Hotel.

Day 3. Wednesday
Walk half an hour to attempt one of the many routes close to
the hotel. There are several routes that are longer but of an
easier grade, which help you to consolidate your skills without
                                                                    4. Topping out on the first pitch of Patri
                                                                                    Classica

straining the body too much. Overnight in Cogne Hotel.

Day 4. Thursday
Perhaps today you may tackle a route such as Patri
Classica, a divine 4 pitch route that flows up a series of
walls culminating in a stunning last pitch. The trail to the
base follows the Valnontey Valley for just over an hour to
the base, so you are well warmed up when you arrive.
Overnight in Cogne Hotel.

Day 5. Friday
Today you will enjoy our last climbs in Cogne Valley
before driving back to Chamonix late in the afternoon.
Perhaps you will be leading something you have had your
eye on to finish the week off on! Perhaps you may decide
to climb Cold Couloir, one of the most famous long routes
(400m, Grade 4+). Finally it is time to pack up the kit and
return to Chamonix. Chamonix hotel night and time to
celebrate a great week on the ice.

Day 6. Saturday                                                    5. Tackling yet another classic
Breakfast and a chance to exchange photos, before departing for home.

Please note: itinerary may change if conditions are more suitable in another region or factors such as
weather to lift service precludes access into this region. If this option was to incur additional costs,
your guide will discuss the options with you prior to any commitment being made.

  Superb instruction venue where you can develop skills and gain confidence with encouragement from all your
                                                   mates!

Our guides

Adventure Consultants guides are BMG/NZMGA
and / or IFMGA-UIAGM qualified mountain guides.
They are professional mountaineers and operate to
the highest industry standards.

Being a technically proficient climber alone is not
enough to work with us; our standards demand
that trip leaders are great guides with good people
skills as well. You will find your guide friendly,
approachable and focused on providing a safe and
enjoyable trip in line with your objectives and
comfort level.

Success with the highest margin of care is always a
hallmark of our approach; promoting the realisation
that even extreme pursuits such as high altitude
mountaineering can be undertaken safely.

Adventure Consultants only employs mountain guides qualified under the
IFMGA training and assessment qualification for European ascents and
courses and this is the only certification that is recognised in the French
and Italian Alps. In order to gain these qualifications guides must undergo
rigorous training and assessment on climbing skills, instructional skills,
avalanche training and assessment, wilderness first aid, rescue training
and much more. The qualification takes many years to attain and ensures you
are getting a world class professional service.

Communication & Messages

Our guides are in cell phone communication with our operations base throughout the trip. This
assists us with schedule and weather forecast updates, lift and accommodation co-ordination and
safety back up. Your own mobile phone should work in the region though you may want to check
with your own service provider first. Local mobile phones can be rented at the international airports.

Climbing season

We operate our Ice Climbing Weeks during January and February. In March and April we can still
climb in some areas so contact us for private guiding rates at these times.

Weather

Europe has a continental climate which in general encourages more stable weather. However, the
weather in the high mountains can be changeable and at times very severe with temperatures
dropping as low as minus 20°C.

Equipment

Climbing in the European Alps requires you have high quality clothing and equipment due to the
extremes of weather conditions. You will be sent an equipment checklist on confirmation of your
booking. Your guide will go through a gear check with you at the beginning of your trip when you
can rent technical equipment for the course. However, you must provide your own clothing
appropriate to mountaineering as per the equipment list. Actual equipment utilised on any given day
may vary subject to seasonal weather and route conditions. Group equipment including ropes and
ice screws will be provided by your guide but if you have your own tools and ice screws feel free to
bring them along.

Fitness and health

To make the most of your climbing experience we encourage you to work on your fitness prior to
the trip. For general mountain fitness, you will find that training on hills with a 10kg + pack is the
best preparation for the mountains, with the aim of building your endurance. Ice climbing does
require an amount of upper body fitness, so time at the rock gym will help get you honed for the ice.
Your guide will be attuned to your fitness levels and will select appropriate routes for your ability.

Our registration form requests that you advise us of any medical problems you may have and if you
are on any medication. Any information you supply will be treated as confidential.

Food

Adventure Consultants will provide breakfasts and packed lunches for the duration of the week. You
will be responsible for your evening meals for the (3) nights in Chamonix, while all meals are
included when in Cogne (3 nights).

In Chamonix you can experience the exciting culinary options available as there are many
restaurants and bars within close walking distance to the hotel that provide a variety of foods to suit
your tastes, or you can elect to eat at the hotel.

We provide a packed lunch throughout the trip but it is a good idea to bring a small selection of your
favourite snack food and hydration drinks with you to ensure you are fuelled by your preferred
brands. Actual amounts of snacks to bring will depend on your consumption but 2 per day in
addition to the lunches we provide would seem reasonable.

If you have any special dietary requirements, please advise us at the time of registration. If your
dietary requirements are especially strict you are advised to bring a sufficient supply of your

required food types with you to ensure you are provided for. Any additional food, beverages or
meals you purchase that are not mentioned in the inclusions will be at your own expense.

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Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation and travel insurance to protect yourself
in case of injury or mishap prior to/or whilst on our trips.

While our focus is on safety and our track record supports this, the mountains do have hazards and
there is the potential for mishap. If you were injured whilst on the trip there is a very efficient rescue
service nearby.

Travel to Chamonix

We commence and finish our 5 Day Ice Climbing Week in Chamonix, France. The closest
international airport is at Geneva, just over the border in Switzerland. Regular shuttles operate up to
Chamonix and the trip takes about 1.5 hours. We can help you arrange shuttle transport and your
shuttle driver will drop you at our accommodation. At the completion of the course the shuttle can
take you back to the airport. The shuttle transfers are at your own cost.

Accommodation

Accommodation is provided on a twin share B&B basis from Sunday evening through to the
following Saturday morning after breakfast. The 2-3 star hotel that we utilise in Chamonix is clean
and comfortable, and includes breakfast. When we are in Cogne, we stay in a convivial climber’s
lodge that includes dinner and breakfast. If you want single accommodation or a higher standard of
accommodation, we can arrange this for you should you wish. Please enquire about options and
costs at time of enquiry.

Chamonix & Cogne Valley Ice Climbing Week Dates 2016

Duration: 5 days climbing, 2 travel days
Ratio: 1 guide to 2 climbers maximum or 1:1

CICW 1: January 3 - 9
CICW 2: January 10 - 16
CICW 3: January 17 - 23
CICW 4: January 24 - 30
CICW 5: January 31- February 6
CICW 6: February 7 - 13
CICW 7: February 14 - 20
CICW 8: February 21 - 27

Please note: You can book a Chamonix & Cogne Ice Climbing Week on any dates that best suit you.
Ice Climbing Weeks for groups can be run on your preferred dates during the climbing season from
December to April depending on guide availability on a 1:1 or 1:2 ratio although venues may vary
early and late season depending on conditions. Any additional costs incurred due to additional travel
and accommodation costs.

The Cost of the Course

Courses operate Sunday evening through to Saturday morning to ex Chamonix, France

Price:          EUR€ 3300 per person 1:1 guide to climber ratio
                EUR€ 1910 per person 1:2 guide to climber ratio

NOTE: Our Chamonix & Cogne Ice Climbing Week delivers you focused guide attention throughout
the course to ensure consistency across the programme. Whilst other operators combine you with
large groups on training days we know your safety will be better protected and the learning
progressions will be enhanced with the attentive care of your guide.

Cost includes:
    Guide
    3 nights hotel in Chamonix B&B on twin share basis including the night prior to, and the last
        night of the course
    3 nights climbers lodge in Cogne on Half Board basis (dinner included)
    Packed lunches during the course
    Transport during course dates as per schedule
    Ropes and group technical equipment

Cost does not include:
    Any lifts, hotel or transport costs that are additional to the programme due to changes to
       programme due to weather or organisational changes
    Personal equipment and clothing
    Rental equipment
    Evening meals or drinks during hotel nights in Chamonix
    Single Supplement for the 1:2 option
    Extra additional meals or snacks/drinks purchased from huts/hotel
    Travel Insurance / trip cancellation insurance / rescue insurance
    Transport to and from Chamonix (although we can arrange it for you)
    Gratuity

Please note: In order to reserve a guide we recommend that you book well in advance.
* All prices are subject to change without notice.

Trip registration and payment

In order to confirm a guide and your course, we require a completed booking form and a deposit of
EUR €500. The balance of payment is then due 60 days prior to the start date.

Use the attached registration form or use our online booking form at:
http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/BookingForm/

Following is our EURO bank account information. All deposits and final payments for European trips
can be sent by telegraphic transfer to this account:

Bank Name and Address:
Bank of New Zealand
Offshore Branch
1 Willis Street
Wellington
New Zealand

Swift Address:                           BKNZNZ22
Beneficiary’s Account Number:            1000-594771-0002
Beneficiary’s Account Name:              Adventure Consultants Limited
Account Type:                            EURO

Beneficiary’s Address: 20 Brownston St, Wanaka, New Zealand.

Please request that all charges are for the remitter’s account.

Please contact us if you have any problems sending funds to this account.

We can accept your deposit and balance payment by credit card – Visa, Mastercard, Amex.

Cancellation & Refund Policy

Once you have paid your deposit your trip is confirmed, subject to payment of the balance of fees
owing 60 days prior to your trip commencement date. A climber may then cancel his/her
participation on the following basis:

       Cancellations outside of 60 days will result in the loss of the trip deposit.
       Inside 60 days of the departure date we reserve the right to retain 50% of the full fee.
       Inside 30 days of the departure date we reserve the right to retain 75% of the full fee.
       Inside 15 days of the departure date forfeits 100% of the full fee.

* We strongly suggest you purchase trip cancellation insurance from your normal travel agent.

We look forward to ice climbing in the European Alps with you soon!

If you require more information please contact us at;

Adventure Consultants Ltd
PO Box 739, 20 Brownston St
Lake Wanaka 9343
New Zealand

Phone: + 64 3 443 8711           Fax: + 64 3 443 8733

Email: info@adventure.co.nz

Web: www.adventureconsultants.com

 Adventure Consultants – is affiliated to the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA), New Zealand Alpine Club
    (NZAC) and a corporate member of the American Alpine Club (AAC). Adventure Consultants perform to IFMGA/UIAGM
                                                    standards and are world leaders in high altitude and expedition guiding.

                                                            All material Copyright © Adventure Consultants Ltd 2015-2016