Alpaca Industry of Peru-March 2019 - South Africa ...

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Alpaca Industry of Peru-March 2019 - South Africa ...
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Alpaca Industry of Peru –
    Research Report

       March 2019
Alpaca Industry of Peru-March 2019 - South Africa ...
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                          INTRODUCTORY OVERVIEW

     The following report aims to provide insight into the alpaca industry of Peru
      The report has consulted with a number of sources in order to provide an
understanding of the existing landscape, pertaining to how the industry has grown and
    developed, as well as to Peru’s role within the broader global alpaca industry
         The following elements have been considered within the research:
                       - Historical Context of Alpacas in Peru
                             - Global Alpaca population
                             - Global Alpaca production
                           - Peruvian Alpaca Value Chain
               - Social and Economic Roles of Alpaca farming in Peru
                        - Alpaca del Peru: A National Brand
Alpaca Industry of Peru-March 2019 - South Africa ...
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        HISTORICAL CONTEXT OF THE ALPACA INDUSTRY IN PERU

         •   Improved Infrastructure
         •   Motorisation                  First efforts to vertically-
1910     •   Puno & Cusco become          integrate Peruvian alpaca       1945
             key for fibre trade              value chain seen by
         •   Mills open in Arequipa                  Michell

                                            Michell and Grupo Inca
          First Alpaca-specific textile                                   1950s –
                                            dominate the Peruvian
          mill established by Michell          alpaca industry –
                                                                           1980s
1947
         through the use of imported        contributing over $50
                   equipment                   million to Peru’s
                                                   economy

          Smaller alpaca processing        China shows increasing
         operations establish – seeing         interest in Alpaca
1990s    greater volumes of finished        farming – threatening         2000s
          alpaca product exported to         Peru’s hegemony as
                Chile & Bolivia                  global leader
Alpaca Industry of Peru-March 2019 - South Africa ...
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                 THE DOMINANCE OF MICHELL AND GRUPO INCO

Despite the emergence of smaller players within the industry, Michell and Grupo Inca continue
to dominate the local Peruvian alpaca industry – seeing a presence across the value chain, from
  farming and the spinning of tops and yarn, to product development, whilst further enjoying
                           strategic partnerships with local retailers
Alpaca Industry of Peru-March 2019 - South Africa ...
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                                       THE GLOBAL CONTEXT

       Globally, Peru is regarded as the leader of Alpaca farming, seeing both the greatest
       population of Alpacas as well as production of fleece
       The following may be understood as being a breakdown of Alpaca population per
       region:

                            COUNTRY                        POPULATION
                               Peru                         2 500 000
                              Bolivia                        150 000
                               Chile                          75 000
                          United States                       46 701
                            Australia                         39 068
                             England                          10 000
                             Canada                            7 098

Source: NorthWest Alpaca Association
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                                       THE GLOBAL CONTEXT
                     Countries with an alpaca population of less than 3000 include:

           Germany            Netherlands        Switzerland       France             Belgium

             Italy               Spain           Portugal           Japan        South Africa

Source: NorthWest Alpaca Association
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                                       THE GLOBAL CONTEXT

       Furthermore, Peru sees the greatest production of Alpaca fleece in comparison to
       its global counterparts, coming to comprise a total of over 80 percent of total
       global production

                            COUNTRY                     PRODUCTION
                               Peru                       4000 tons
                              Bolivia                      240 tons
                               Chile                       120 tons
                          United States                     75 tons
                            Australia                       63 tons
                             England                        16 tons
                             Canada                         11 tons

Source: NorthWest Alpaca Association
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        GROWTH OF THE PERUVIAN INDUSTRY – APPAREL AND TEXTILES
                            2011 TO 2015
                  180
                  160
                  140
                  120
                  100                                        Textiles

                   80
                                                             Apparel &
                   60                                        Garments
                   40
                   20
                     0
                          2011   2012   2013   2014   2015

Source: Alpaca del Peru
Alpaca Industry of Peru-March 2019 - South Africa ...
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                      KEY MARKETS FOR PERUVIAN ALPACA FIBRE

                                18%                           USA
                                                              Germany
                    4%                                        Japan
                          4%                 49%              France
                                                              UK
                          5%
                                                              Mexico
                           5%                                 Australia
                                                              Other
                           5%         10%

Source: Alpaca del Peru
Alpaca Industry of Peru-March 2019 - South Africa ...
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                          THE STEADY GROWTH OF THE INDUSTRY

       As indicated, Alpaca production in Peru has grown steadily over the course of the
       past thirty years – from lows of 0.859 metric tons in 2000, to peaks of 2.948 metric
       tons in 2017.
       It becomes necessary to better understand the influencing variables which have
       potentially had an impact on the described growth.

Source: National Institute of Statistics and Information Science
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              THE STEADY GROWTH OF THE INDUSTRY

A number of contributing factors may be attributed to the industry’s
steady production growth over recent years, these may be identified as
being:
• Extensive Local Investment into the Industry
• Foreign Direct Investment
• The Marketing and Positioning of Alpaca Fibre
• The Growth of the Luxury Sector’s Demand for Alpaca Fibre
• Research Programmes and Subsequent Industry Improvements
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        EXTENSIVE LOCAL INVESTMENT INTO THE INDUSTRY

There is without doubt that the industry has benefitted from extensive
local investment into the production sphere of the value chain
Coopecan, a cooperative body founded in 2011, was established with the
sole purpose on driving an increase in the production of alpaca fibre
Involved in 3 of the 5 regions in Peru, the body directly benefited 5000
producers
In collaboration with a number of local institutions, such as the Peru
Opportunity Fund, Project Puquio and Sichuan was implemented, aimed
at improving the production and quality of alpaca fibre, increasing income
of producing partners
A direct result of which saw the strengthening of production capacities
and management of producers
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       EXTENSIVE LOCAL INVESTMENT INTO THE INDUSTRY

The project has seen an injection of US$ 530 000 worth of machinery and
equipment – ensuring uninterrupted quality of the fibre offered, as well
as the continuity of its sales
In addition, Peruvian trading agencies, such as Sierra Exports and SPAR,
along with representatives of Peruvian Agronomists, have begun offering
technical support to producers in recent years, assisting in the use of
advanced production and processing methods for increased volume and
quality
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                    FOREIGN DIRECT INVESTMENT

In addition to the extensive local investment the Peruvian Alpaca
production industry has seen, foreign investment has also played an
essential role, with noticeable impact upon the local context
This is exemplified by the role that Washington-based entity Technoserve
has played
From the onset of 2000, the company has worked single-handedly with
nearly two thousand herders, improving animal nutrition and health-care
practices, facilitating increased shearing and parasite control, producing
not only greater quantities of fibre, but fibre of a higher quality
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                    FOREIGN DIRECT INVESTMENT

By the end of Technoserve’s assistance over five years, farmers added
more than $230 000 of value to their annual alpaca fibre production
What’s more, is that growing demand from a greater degree of new export
markets has been seen over the past five years, particularly the likes of
China and Italy
The end of 2017 saw record export figures to both regions – with China
seeing a 390% increase and a total 217% increase in value (approximately
US$48 million), whilst Italy saw an 86% increase in exports and a 43%
increase in value (approximately US$15 million)
Increased global demand for the fibre is fuelling the need for a consistent
supply of quality production
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   THE MARKETING AND POSITIONING OF PERUVIAN ALPACA FIBRE

 There is further evidence to suggest that extensive marketing and active
 positioning of Peruvian Alpaca fibre has played a considerable role in
 increasing international demand for the fibre, which has subsequently
 been met by increased production
 The likes of Alpaca del Peru, Andean, Ayni, as well as the Peruvian
 Government Certification Programme* has successfully come to position
 Peruvian Alpaca fibre as not only a world-class commodity, but one that is
 produced under ethical and sustainable guidelines

* The Peruvian Government Certification Programme was implemented in 2013 through the
National System of Evaluation, Accreditation and Certification of Education Quality, which
involves training and certification programmes for Alpaca producers, shearers and sorters,
providing technical skillsets in order to ensure the highest quality of Alpaca fibre output possible
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THE MARKETING AND POSITIONING OF PERUVIAN ALPACA FIBRE

2014’s Alpaca del Peru, launched by the Ministry of Foreign Trade and
Tourism, PromPeru and the Peruvian Institute for Alpaca, have promoted
exports through international fairs and trade missions, such as Alpaca
Fiesta, which has been key in driving international demand for the fibre in
recent years
What’s more, is that the national branding efforts have successfully driven
and enforced the perception of Peruvian Alpaca fibre as inherently soft,
and furthermore, of an unrivalled quality – further ensuring continued
international demand
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THE GROWTH OF THE LUXURY SECTOR’S DEMAND FOR ALPACA FIBRE

 As indicated, increased international demand has been incremental in
 driving production figures within the Peruvian Alpaca industry
 Essential to this increased demand has been the role that the
 international luxury sector has played specifically
 2013 saw the launch of specific strategic campaigns undertaken by the
 Peruvian government to position Alpaca fibre within the global luxury
 market
 Global luxury brands including the likes of Chanel, Burberry, Prada and
 MaxMara are all utilising Peruvian Alpaca fibre within the manufacturing
 of their garments
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ALPACA GARMENT EXAMPLES
        MaxMara
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ALPACA GARMENT EXAMPLES
          Prada
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ALPACA GARMENT EXAMPLES
         Kenzo
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ALPACA GARMENT EXAMPLES
        Burberry
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          ALPACA GARMENT EXAMPLES
BERGDORF GOODMAN – PASSPORT TO PERU CAMPAIGN
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THE GROWTH OF THE LUXURY SECTOR’S DEMAND FOR ALPACA FIBRE

 Reports indicate a result of the international success within the luxury
 sector has resulted in agreements with major international
 manufacturing companies, such as the Italian company Fratelli Piancenza
 (which saw exports to the value of $125 000)
 The success of the positioning campaigns has subsequently seen the
 government of Peru commit to investing approximately US$ 28.7 million
 to improving the Alpaca fibre production process
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RESEARCH PROGRAMMES AND SUBSEQUENT INDUSTRY IMPROVEMENTS

  Extensive research has been conducted relating specifically to genetic
  improvements of Alpacas in order to enhance breeding practices as well
  as the overall quality and quantity of fibre output
  A number of private business-funded research projects established in
  2009 have founded experimental ranches which have undertaken assisted
  reproduction using embryo transfer through state-of-the-art techniques in
  animal science
  Furthermore, software has been developed to streamline production in
  terms of the processing of production and reproduction data for
  producers
  In addition, training courses for farmers have been consistently organised
  with the aim of sharing research findings and best practice techniques in
  order to ensure consistent and improved output
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              THE STEADY GROWTH OF THE INDUSTRY

The research thus demonstrates that a number of variables have come to
play a considerable role within the steady growth of production within the
local Peruvian Alpaca industry
The variables range from extensive investment from both local sources as
well as abroad, the role that the active marketing and positioning of
Peruvian Alpaca fibre has come to play, increased commitment from the
luxury sector, combined with extensive research into improvements to
the production process itself, and the subsequent changes and
adjustments made in light of said research
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                                  Peruvian Alpaca Value Chain
       The alpaca value chain of Peru is a complex one, involving a myriad of different
       actors all with substantial influence in the production and distribution of alpaca
       garments
       The following key stakeholders have been identified as crucial within the value
       chain:
       • Alpaqueros (Local Alpaca Farmers)  responsible for production, shearing,
         pasture rotation, health treatment, etc.
       • Alcanzadores and Rescatistas (traders / buyers)  acting as brokers, travel to
         production areas and buy fibre lots from producers, fibre is then redistributed to
         business agents who in turn sell to processing units
       • Processing Units – internationally-operating firms (Michell, Prosur and Grupo
         Inca)  responsible for carding, combing, spinning, dyeing and finishing
       • Craftsmen  mostly women, organised into local associations, responsible for
         the likes of knitting and weaving
       • Governmental Bodies  responsible for promotion, coordination and technical
         assistance to key industry players
       • NGOs  offering of technical assistance to producers, as well as research and
         development of producer organisation as to drive commercialisation

Source: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology
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                                        Alpaca Fibre Output
       Currently, it is understood that the identified major processing units are currently
       accounting for 95% of total alpaca fibre output – with 90% of which being geared
       towards export – leaving little room for value add within the local Peruvian context
       What’s more, is that the majority of what is being exported is being done so as
       fibre, as opposed to finished garments, as illustrated below:

                      Grade of Manufacture             Percentage Share of Export

               Washed Raw Fibre (Without carding,
                                                                 0.07%
                      filling or combing)

               Semi-Processed Fibre (Mainly tops)               81.57%

                               Yarns                            17.35%

                             Garments                             1%

Source: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology
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                                        Alpaca Fibre Output
       Ultimately, garment production, the aspect of the value chain where the greatest
       and most consistent yields may be earned, is being left within foreign markets
       What little value-add that is being seen within the local context (which is
       understood as seeing less than 10% of total output) is being manufactured by local
       craftsmen – belonging to disorganised local associations – the majority of whom
       simply knit for local markets, or sell their products in the streets of tourist-
       frequented cities
       It is understood that the processed alpaca tops are sourced through the
       international buyers of the identified markets, whereby the tops are subsequently
       manufactured and completed as garments
       Manufacturing is completed by foreign independent entities, or by the
       manufacturing houses vertically-integrated into the value chains of major global
       high-end brands

Source: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology
Peruvian Alpaca Production Chain   30

Source: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology
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                              Peruvian Alpaca Production Chain

       Processed alpaca products geared towards export from Peru are met with a
       number of regulatory barriers
       Escalated tariff structures in developed countries such as the United States, see
       heightened duties for fully-processed goods, the barrier of which keeps Peruvian
       alpaca garments and products from being exported to the likes of the US for mass
       market
       Ultimately, this sees that the majority of exports are comprised of processed and
       semi-processed alpaca tops, which is then further processed as a finished product
       within the export location and consequently distributed
       Given that the local industry is built upon a mercantilist structure, this is a
       substantial barrier to the development of the industry
       This paired with the fact that the local market is limited, seeing little organised
       support or marketing other than a few dominating players, ensures that rural /
       small farmers are unable to grow whilst the hegemony of the likes of Michell is
       safeguarded

Source: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology
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           Social and Economic Roles of Alpaca Farming in Peru

                                   GDP
    EMPLOYMENT                                        SUSTAINABILITY
                               CONTRIBUTION

The alpaca industry of       Textile manufacturing      Alpaca farming is
    Peru is key to           currently comprises a     known to see a far
providing a livelihood         total of 23 percent      smaller ecological
    to more than             (48.62 billion USD) of   footprint that other
  150 000 Peruvian            the country’s GDP –     livestock – requiring
families (contributing        with alpaca being a         little food and
 60 percent of textile       dominant contributor        inhabiting high
   manufacturing                                      altitude areas using
employment in Peru)                                          little water
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