Advice and support if you lose your hair - In association with: Endorsed by
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Advice and support if you lose your hair In association with: Endorsed by: Registered Charity Number 1130815
My New Hair is a national independent charity providing information, advice and support for people experiencing medical hair loss. They provide access to a responsibly trained national network of hairdressers. Registered Charity Number 1130815. For further information please visit www.mynewhair.org You can contact our helpdesk on info@mynewhair.org or call us on 01798 812547 Acknowledgements Project and Print Sponsors We wish to thank all of our specialist With kind thanks to the Department of contributors to this My New Health, Trendco Wig Suppliers and Herb Hair publication and gratefully UK Limited. acknowledge the project support from the Department of Health. Education Sponsors We gratefully acknowledge L’Oreal Copyright and credit for use of images Professional and Trendco Wig Suppliers © My New Hair 2011. Copyright, as our original and ongoing valuable design, photography and booklet education sponsors. content is intended for authorised My New Hair use only. No unauthorised reproduction of any part of this booklet without the prior permission of My New Hair. This booklet has been produced by Printed by Foundry Press Ltd Horsham My New Hair specialist advisers and who are proud to support My New Hair. has been reviewed by The Institute of Trichologists, healthcare professionals Paper Supplied by Antalis/ and people affected by medical hair McNaughtons. loss. This booklet is endorsed by the Department of Health. Graphic design by Debbie Beaney My New Hair images kindly supplied by Catherine Harbour Photography. A selection of other images kindly supplied by Christine Headwear, Herb UK, Sleek, Look Good ... Feel Better and Trendco Wig Suppliers.
“I feel my incredible career to date has led me to this moment and this opportunity to help people. I am so grateful that I have the skills to do this. My New Hair isn’t just about hair, it’s psychological medicine for people suffering from hair loss through illness and for many of the people I have seen, it’s the missing link in their treatment. Giving people back their hair, hair that looks natural, attractive and feminine gives them back a little of their confidence to face the world in what could be their darkest hour. It was my personal experience of helping a family member during cancer treatment Trevor Sorbie, MBE that inspired the idea of My New Hair. I support both short term and long term hair loss sufferers and it affects men, women and children of all ages. If this is as a result of treatment for cancer, the outward effects of this can often remain invisible until you start losing your hair. What we can do is give people a chance to feel confident and normal. When people are fit and well, we look after them, so when they are ill it is even more important as a hairdresser, to be sensitive and make them feel special. Many people suffering from hair loss don’t want to feel different, they often want to be able to go out and feel normal with hair that looks real and natural.” Using his skills and his personal insight, Trevor recognised the need for the hair industry to support people suffering from medical hair loss. An accomplished hairdresser for over 40 years, Trevor Sorbie MBE has created and committed himself to an entirely not for profit initiative “My New Hair”. Trevor sought to gain the support of his industry peers in creating a network of “salons that care”. In July 2009, this was awarded national registered charity status by the Charity Commission.
Contents Introduction........................................................................................................5 What My New Hair can do to help you .........................................................5 Hair Loss .............................................................................................................6 Your feelings.................................................................................................6 Preventing hair loss .....................................................................................6 How you may lose your hair.......................................................................6 Hair loss through Chemotherapy...............................................................7 Hair loss through Radiotherapy . ...............................................................7 Hair Loss from Hormone Treatments..........................................................7 Wig Provision . ....................................................................................................8 Choosing a Wig...........................................................................................8 Comfort and considerations......................................................................9 Different types of Wig - The Options........................................................10 Synthetic Fibre and Human Hair Wigs.....................................................10 Options for Men.........................................................................................11 Options for Children and Young Adults..................................................11 Options for different ethnic groups.........................................................11 Wig Bases . .................................................................................................12 Individual/Custom made wigs.................................................................13 Thinning Options .......................................................................................14 Wig Size/Securing......................................................................................14 Caring for your Wig...................................................................................14 Fitting and Wearing a Wig . .....................................................................15 Alternative Head Wear.............................................................................16 Masking Solutions for Patchy Hair Loss....................................................17 Hair after Cancer Treatment...........................................................................19 Basic Facts about Hair .............................................................................19 When new hair grows back.....................................................................19 Hair and Cancer........................................................................................20 If you do not lose your hair during treatment........................................21 Caring for Hair............................................................................................21 Thinning Hair...............................................................................................21 The Scalp and Hair Re-Growth.................................................................22 Colouring Hair Post-Cancer Treatment...................................................23 Relaxing / Straightening Hair Post-Cancer Treatment..........................25 Benefits and Side Effects of Hair Extensions and Weaving...................26 Other Useful Information ................................................................................27
Introduction Introduction What My New Hair can do to help you My New Hair is a national, independent charity providing • We provide unbiased public information, advice and support for information, support and advice people experiencing medical hair around losing your hair and loss. considerations when choosing a wig. This information is We work with medical advisors, the professionally endorsed. We also wig industry, specialists in aftercare provide guidance on cutting and experienced independent hair and styling of wigs and advice professionals to give you the very when your hair begins to grow best support. back. We provide this via our helpline or you can visit our My New Hair has developed this website resource in partnership with the www.mynewhair.org Department of Health to help you through your journey from hair loss • We provide access to a through to aftercare if your hair responsibly trained national grows back. It is recognised that network of hairdressers through there can be differences, within our network of Salons that Care. healthcare, in the provision of All our hairdressers cut and style service and unbiased information wigs. Some also stock a range regarding the supply and cutting of of wigs and many have trained wigs. with us to advanced level which includes advice on when your The impact of losing your hair can hair begins to grow back. You be profound. Some people choose can access the locations of to wear hats or scarves. Some our trained hairdressers plus people choose to wear nothing. details of wig suppliers who are For people who choose to wear a members of the UK Wigmakers wig, some worry that this may look Association via the salon unnatural. The difference that a information on our website. professionally cut wig can make • The My New Hair charity founded should not be underestimated. the UK’s first national hairdressers Whilst many wigs now look much training programme to support more realistic, it is possible to people with medical hair loss. transform an “obvious wig” into Our programme is nurse-led, an individual’s “new hair”. Many providing specialist expertise people are unaware that this is across all areas of advice, wig possible and assume that a wig cutting and aftercare. We cannot be cut and styled further. believe in supporting hairdressers We would always advise that this to deliver a responsible service service be carried out by a trained with respect and discretion for all hairdresser. clients. 5
Hair Loss Preventing hair loss Whilst little can be done to prevent Your feelings hair loss to the local area during radiotherapy, if you are having Many, but not all, people face chemotherapy, you may ask your the prospect of losing their hair as specialist nurse about the possibility part of their treatment for cancer. of scalp cooling with your particular Hair loss can be one of the most cancer and type of drug treatment. distressing side effects of cancer Hair Loss They will advise you if this may be treatment. Hair can also have suitable for you. particular significance across different cultures. How you may lose your For short term, or longer term, hair hair loss sufferers, this distress is understandable as the way we feel Often people ask how they may about ourselves and how we look, lose their hair and when it might is closely linked to our feelings of self happen. Always check with your esteem and self confidence. It can medical team as this may vary also be a constant “reminder” of according to your treatment. your treatment for cancer. Some people may experience Whether hair loss be as a result of scalp sensitivity prior to and during treatment or diagnosed as longer hair loss and also through the term alopecia this may make you course of their treatment. You may feel vulnerable. For additional experience hair loss during the night support that you may find helpful and may wish to wear a soft cotton please see our “Other Useful cap. Information” at the back of this booklet. 6
Hair loss through Unlike chemotherapy, hair loss only applies to areas which receive Chemotherapy radiotherapy. If, for example, you are receiving radiotherapy to a Chemotherapy uses anti cancer specific part of your head, the drugs, which travel around the hair will fall out in that area. In this body and reach the cancer cells instance, you may also lose hair wherever they are. Damage to from the other side of your head healthy cells also occurs during this where radiotherapy beams pass process – especially to cells that are through. Hair Loss always growing and dividing like the ones that make your hair grow. Hair may take six months or more to Not all chemotherapy treatment grow back following radiotherapy. causes hair loss. Your medical team It may also be patchy when it and specialist nurse will talk to grows back. Although hair usually you about your treatment and will grows back over time it is possible discuss with you how you are likely that it may not grow back at all. to lose your hair. You may also This depends upon the dose of have thinning or loss of eyelashes, radiotherapy and the number of eyebrows and other body hair. treatments. Healthy cells normally repair themselves quite quickly so your hair may grow back once Hair Loss from treatment is finished or sometimes Hormone Treatments even before you finish your full course of treatment. This may take Some hormone treatments can several months but it will probably result in hair thinning due to the grow at the same rate as it grew lowering of levels of oestrogen. before. There is more information This is a similar effect to that which about this in our “Hair After Cancer may occur during the menopause Treatment” section. when periods stop. Once you stop taking the drug, your hair will Hair loss through probably grow back. It is important to recognise that hair thinning can Radiotherapy also be distressing and you may wish to contact a professional wig Radiotherapy uses high energy supplier who will also be able to x-rays to treat cancer and is used advise you on appropriate hair to treat a specific part of the body. pieces should you require this. Most Like chemotherapy, radiotherapy wig suppliers can also provide affects healthy cells and can ready to wear or custom made hair cause hair loss. Your radiographer, pieces. consultant or nurse will talk to you about the likelihood of losing your hair during treatment. 7
Wig Provision The Department of Health leaflet HC11 “Are you Entitled to Help with Health Costs ?” can tell you whether you can get a free wig from the NHS. If you are not entitled to a free wig you can still get one from the hospital at a subsidised price. Currently, the level of subsidy varies depending on the hospital so you will need to check this with your specialist nurse. You will need to apply for help with the costs on an HC1 form which the Hospital can provide you with. Choosing a Wig Wig Provision The National Health Service (NHS) Choosing a wig for the first time makes provision for the supply of can be bewildering. If you need to wigs to people who need them choose a wig for the first time, some in order to help with medical hair of the following considerations may loss. To obtain a wig you will need be useful :- to have a referral from a specialist eg: oncology or dermatology • Sometimes people wish to department. choose their wig prior to losing their hair and you may wish The process of wig provision varies to familiarise yourself with around the country. It is expected headwear options before your that wig suppliers under contract treatment begins. Your wig may to the NHS must supply a good need some slight adjustment standard of wig, offer choice and once you lose your hair. This is provide a confidential and quality usually easy to do yourself using service. The majority of suppliers the adjustable straps or your wig are members of the Hairdressing supplier will also be able to help and Beauty Suppliers Association you with this. and have subscribed to a code • If you are losing your hair as a of conduct and practices which result of cancer treatment, it can comply with British Standard ISO be helpful to start by considering 9001. Such wig fitters are checked whether you want to recreate a by the Criminal Records Bureau to style as close to what you have be “fit to deal with children and with your own hair or whether vulnerable adults”. you wish to choose a different 8
style or colour. Some people If you are bewildered by the chose to have their hair cut short choice of styles and colours, ask a before their treatment and also professional for help. Generally, if choose to wear a shorter wig. the colour is right and the style is Others wear a longer wig and close to what you are looking for, have the wig cut much shorter the wig can be customised by a in preparation for when their trained hair professional and any own hair begins to grow back. excess “bulk” in the wig, can be You should check that this is thinned out and the wig shaped to possible with the supplier when give a more natural appearance. choosing the wig. Each person is individual and there is no right or Comfort and wrong way to approach this. considerations • When choosing a wig, you may wish to take someone you trust Comfort and fit for a wig are along with you if you feel you important considerations. If a wig may want a second opinion or fits snugly to your head all over, it is additional support. Discussing likely to look more natural and be Wig Provision your thoughts and ideas more secure. However, wearing a together before choosing the wig can be hot particularly in warm wig may be helpful too. If you weather. Some people find that a have already lost some or all of cushion band which runs around your hair, taking some pictures the perimeter of a wig and “lifts” it, from magazines or photographs can be slightly cooling to the head, can help guide a professional making it more comfortable in wig supplier to what you are warm weather. looking to achieve. Some wig bases are more • It can be helpful to contact “breathable” but these tend to be the wig supplier in advance to used in wigs made for the more make an appointment and also long term client and can be more to establish that they have a expensive. discreet, private environment in which you can try on a range of wigs. Wearing a wig is likely to feel quite different at first and it is perfectly normal to feel unsure about this. It is important that any wig is fitted well and does not move around on your head. A professional supplier will be able to do this and alter the wig if necessary. Wig cap 9
Different types of Wig - colour fade than human hair but generally cannot be heat styled. The Options They can develop “friction frizz” after a period of time, especially It can be helpful to understand when in constant contact with the main choice of wigs available. clothing, particularly at the nape of There are two main wig options: the neck. However, the aftercare synthetic fibre and human hair. instructions detailed later can help Each type has advantages and you minimise this. disadvantages. There are no set rules regarding selection however, Synthetic wigs usually last for 9-12 the following information should be months depending upon how well considered to support the selection they are cared for and how often process:- they are worn. A longer wig will have a shorter life span as it is more Synthetic Fibre Wigs prone to develop friction frizz by rubbing against clothing. Synthetic fibre wigs have the advantage of being pre-styled and Wig Provision come in a large range of colours. Human Hair Wigs They also provide wash and wear Human hair wigs can be heat styled convenience as, when washed to suit: blowdried, straightened correctly, they revert back to their or curled and can be treated like original style. If you are being growing hair. This does however treated for cancer, this is a key mean that they require regular consideration for you as you may attention and can be more prone not be well enough or have the to colour fade. Using the very best energy to style a wig on a regular products can help prolong the life basis. These wigs are less prone to of the wig. Synthetic Wigs Human Hair Wigs Advantages Disadvantages Advantages Disadvantages No colour fading Friction Frizz No frizzing Colour fades Permanent wave Unable to tint Can apply heat Porous or colour Can be coloured Can be more No styling No heat costly application Soft to touch May be difficult to Easy to maintain May be seen manage as inferior Vast colour Style can be Not available selection changed in grey Price 10
Options for Men Alternatively, many children are Hair loss for men can be just as happy to wear a cap or bandana. traumatic as it is for women. Men These are also available with hair/ may be reluctant to seek help fringe attached and look attractive or enquire about their options. as well as being practical. However, rest assured that these feelings and concerns are perfectly Options for different natural, and that the services exist just as much for men as for women. ethnic groups There is a more limited selection of ready to wear and custom- made full hair wigs and toupees specifically designed for men. These are available at some reputable wig suppliers. These are also likely to require customisation and can be styled for a very natural look. Wig Provision Options for Children and There is a fairly good selection of Young Adults wigs for most hair types available from wig fitters and manufacturers. However, there are also specialist wig suppliers available in the High Street and on-line that provide a huge array of wigs/pieces in Afro Caribbean, Indian, Asian and other styles. The range of children’s wigs can High Street stores tend to be for be limited but are available from “off the peg” purchases and, often several reputable UK wig suppliers. lack facilities to select and try on Older children requiring an adult wigs discreetly in-store. Therefore, styled wig can have it adapted to if you decide to purchase a wig make it smaller or try a petite style from a High Street store without an adult wig. The manufacturer’s opportunity to have the wig fitted, advice should be sought for this we would advise that you check service. the Store’s sale or return policy before you make a purchase. You may wish to contact the Hair and Beauty Suppliers Association or My New Hair for a list of suppliers who stock a range of children’s and petite range wigs. 11
Wig Bases In addition to the choice of wearing a synthetic or a human hair wig, there are also many more choices of wig base which can be confusing. Machine Wefted Hand knotted wig foundation Most synthetic wigs are produced on a machine made weft. This is then sewn onto a stretch Monofilament foundation. The machine wefting Both human hair and synthetic and stretch foundation allows for wigs can be manufactured with a breathe-ability and comfort of fit. transparent monofilament top. This gives a smoother, softer feel to the scalp at the top and the crown. Wig Provision The hair/fibre are hand knotted into the monofilament base to give the appearance of growing hair. Monofilament top wigs have the added advantage of allowing the hair to be brushed in any direction, making it easier to change the parting for a style. A double layer Machine wefted lace top wig foundation of monofilament is also available which can increase comfort for the wearer. Hand Knotted Foundations Hand knotted wigs are constructed on a stretch net, lace or full monofilament foundation. This type of foundation is very lightweight and extremely comfortable to wear. Each strand of hair/fibre is individually knotted into the foundation for a natural life like look. Machine wefted monofilament top wig foundation 12
Other Wig Bases Vacuum Wigs Custom fitted “vacuum” wigs These tend to be aimed at the require no bonding to the scalp long term wearer and frequently feature as part of custom made wig ranges. However, with advances Individual/Custom made in technology, they are becoming wigs increasingly available as a “ready to wear” options. This type of wig is most often used for the long-term wearer. They Lace can be very expensive as a great deal of expertise is required for the Ready to wear and custom made wigs can incorporate areas of the measuring and the production of cap (usually the front for a natural this type of wig. A bespoke wig can hair line) or full caps of lace that are enable you to lead an active life virtually undetectable to the eye. including swimming, sport, dancing They tend to have bleached knots with the added security of a wig that create the appearance of hair that is virtually undetectable and Wig Provision growing out of a scalp. secure. There are a number of specialist Silicone companies that produce custom Edges, larger areas or the whole of made wigs as well as partial hair the cap can be made from a type pieces, patches for scars, burns of silicone which creates a second and patches for hair loss. It is skin. This can be secured with tapes important to note that these wigs to provide a secure fit. take 8-12 weeks to produce, and a number of fittings on a bald head Before carried out by a highly trained individual is necessary. This is one of the reasons that this wig would not be recommended if you are undergoing cancer treatment. After 13
Thinning Options • Turn the wig inside out, use warm water and cleanse with an There are a number of hair appropriate product for the wig integration systems available, type. some are similar to a wig, but with • This process may need to be an open weft base that allows carried out more than once the client’s own hair to be pulled depending on whether deep through with a hook or tail comb. cleansing is required. This will give the hair more volume. • Use appropriate conditioning products for real hair wigs, and Wig Size/Securing leave on the hair for a minimum of 3-5 minutes. These products The majority of ready to wear may be leave on conditioners wigs are available in average or or mask style treatments and petite sizes. The standard cap size should be used according to the for wigs is 54cm and petite sizes manufacturer’s guidelines. are around 52cm. All wigs have elastic adjusters with velcro or hook • Conditioning is the most Wig Provision fastenings at the nape. These can important part of the cleansing be altered to ensure best comfort process for human hair wigs. and fit. This will help to maintain the condition, extend the life span of Some wigs provide an area for the the wig and to ensure the quality additional use of toupee tape for of the hair. added security, or this can be sewn • The wig should be thoroughly into the wig by the wig supplier rinsed using warm water and should you feel the need. dried using a gentle squeezing and patting technique to Caring for your Wig remove excess moisture. It is best to avoid rubbing the wig to Care instructions should be given prevent the hair from tangling. to you with your wig. This will help to ensure the life and quality of the wig is prolonged for as long as possible. Washing Process When washing a synthetic or a real hair wig: • The wig should be pre-brushed through, prior to the washing process. 14
Aftercare for synthetic wigs Fitting and Wearing a One of the problems regarding Wig synthetic wigs is the development of “friction frizz”. By following the Styling and Aftercare correct aftercare instructions you Products for Wigs can reduce the risk of friction frizz on longer length wigs by using a Shampoo serum. Never use direct heat such Gentle action and formulated as hair dryers, ceramic irons or especially for fibre hair. Human curling tongs as this will damage hair wigs need a high quality the fibre. It is also important to shampoo particularly for bleached recognise that you need to be or coloured hair. Anti-frizz shampoos extremely careful around heat also work very well. sources such as barbecues, open fires, cigarettes/lighters, outdoor Spray on conditioner heaters. Caution is also required A daily use leave in conditioner when opening the oven door as the and protection spray is ideal for first, initial heat blast, can damage Wig Provision synthetic wigs. These sprays often the fibres. contain fibre oil, which helps to protect the wig. For human hair, Aftercare for human hair use a high quality anti-frizz style wigs conditioner and use according to After washing, these wigs should the manufacturer’s guidelines. be combed through using a wide tooth comb, always combing from the tips of the hair to the root. At this stage, care should be taken when combing the hair, as the knots become loose when wet and will tighten as the wig begins to dry. All human hair wigs can be set using conventional curlers and hood dryers. Heated rollers also offer a quick curling solution and Products shown are just an example of curling tongs and straightening irons available products, other brands and makes can also be used. It is important are available. when using heat on the human hair, that a thermal heat protection product is used. 15
Wig Lustre/Silicone based sprays (Serum) This type of spray is recommended for all types of wigs, it will reduce the tendency to frizz if used at the nape area. It will also add shine and generally revitalise the fibre. Holding Spray Fixing Spray, a water based spray Au Naturale for hold without build-up. Use a This is totally down to personal holding spray that can be removed preference and individual style. with cold or tepid water or one that There is no right or wrong choice. brushes out. Some people simply prefer to go bare, and define themselves Alternative Head Wear with make up and earrings. There are potential advantages to this, Hats and Scarves namely simplicity, ease, comfort Wig Provision and freedom as well as having an Hats and scarves can be an individual style that some people alternative to wigs, and many seek. people will use these as a comfortable replacement. There If you choose not to wear any head are a huge amount of options cover in the future, you might find ranging from regular hats and the following advice helpful: scarves to self-made headwear (from sarongs and fabrics) as well • Bare heads are more sensitive to as specialist headwear which can heat and cold. The head should offer: be covered appropriately when • Comfort it is hot and sunny or cold and windy. • Different fabrics appropriate to the temperature and • The scalp can be particularly environment sensitive to sunshine and it is recommended that a high • Shape with padding for structure factor sun block is used and/or a or extra fabric for tying designs or shady hat is worn. to provide extra cover up • Some people receiving anti • Complete coverage of the cancer treatment should avoid hairline direct exposure to the sun and • Secure fit and anti-slippage you should advise them to discuss this with their healthcare • Added hairlines such as fringes professional. or at the side and back of head can create the illusion of hair. 16
Masking Solutions for The application process is very easy and straight forward: Patchy Hair Loss • Apply cream to the sponge Unisex Spray Hair Thickener applicator supplied This is a fast and effective • Lightly cover the scalp in the hair thickening spray, which not only loss area thickens hair but also helps to • Comb the hair into desired style mask thinning areas. The product is to finish the look dispensed as a colour powder and can be quickly sprayed onto the The cream is available in black, hair and scalp areas where the hair dark brown, medium brown, light is thinnest. This application offers brown/blonde, grey and grey/ the benefits of disguising the scalp’s white. reflection of light and the powder molecules attached to each hair strand makes them appear thicker. Products shown are just The product needs to be sealed in an example place with a follow up application Wig Provision of available of holding spray. Colours available products, other brands are black, dark brown, medium and makes brown, light brown, auburn, hazel, are available light blonde, ash blonde, silver and grey. Care should be taken if your scalp is sensitive or your skin is damaged in any way. If in doubt, please discuss this with your health professional. Make Up Unisex Masking Solution You can use make up to draw Unisex masking cream provides in a lash line and eyebrows and an instant, convenient and safe enhance your features. Advice way to disguise thinning areas. This regarding how to achieve this and non-greasy cream has a gentle the best products to use can be action and is ideal for both men obtained from make up counters and women. It is 98% water and rub and beauty salons. Some cancer proof, it does not stain or discolour charities provide support and hair and only takes minutes to advice around aspects of well apply. By selecting a colour slightly being and appearance. darker than the hair, the scalp is subtly darkened, which neutralises the skin’s reflection of light. 17
Look Good … Feel Better hold free There are various options skincare and make up workshops to available to you to help you gain help combat the visible side effects self distinguishing features and of cancer treatment. Care should confidence. be taken if your skin is sensitive or damaged in any way. If in False eyelashes and eyebrows are doubt discuss this with your health readily available at both high street professional. beauty departments and on-line stores. For men, some moustaches and beards are available, but the options are limited. Care should be taken if your skin is sensitive or damaged in any way. If in doubt please discuss this with your health professional. Please also see our “Other Useful Information” section Wig Provision at the back of this booklet. Facial Hair Options A less considered aspect of medical hair loss is the absence of eyelashes, eyebrows, beard growth and body hair that may accompany the scalp hairloss. The loss of facial hair can change your appearance. Eyebrows provide a frame for the face, and you may find the absence of eyebrows and eyelashes difficult. 18
Hair after Cancer Treatment Basic Facts about Hair The cells that produce our hair have the fastest growth rate of all cells in the human body. Each hair goes through an independent cycle of growth, which lasts on average 5 years. Each day we shed approximately 100 hairs as part of this cycle. When new hair grows back There are some differences between hair and growth rates across different ethnic groups. Caucasian Asian Afro-Caribbean Hair Shaft Oval Round Flat Thickness Mid-thickness Thickest Finest Key Characteristics Most variable Straight. Most Curly, tight type. Can be regular type coiled. The Hair after Cancer straight, wavy or shape hinders Treatment curly the spread of natural sebum across the hair, leaving it fragile and easily damaged. Colour Blonde, brown, Black Black red Rate of Growth 1.2cm/month 1.3cm/month 0.9cm/month Density of Follicles Most dense Least dense Mid-density 19
On average our hair grows around Hair and Cancer 1 cm per month (dependent on ethnicity). Healthy hair is actually Cancer cells also reproduce rather strong; each hair can rapidly. Chemotherapy and withstand up to 100gm. Made up of radiotherapy are designed to 3 layers, the outer layer (the cuticle) target these fast growing cells, offers a protective function. The which is why our hair can be cuticle can be damaged by daily affected. Radiotherapy causes hair combing and brushing, as well as loss only in the area being treated. environmental influences, e.g. the sun. The hair that grows back following treatment for cancer can be Hair is composed partially from a weak due to a lack of protein. special protein called keratin. When With chemotherapy, your hair may we colour hair, it is the protein start to grow back before the end in hair that the colour pigments of the treatment. You may have attach to and so it is essential to a full head of hair between 3-6 have the correct protein levels. months following the end of your The rest of our hair is made up of chemotherapy. There may be a water, fatty acids and other trace number of differences between elements. your new hair and your hair before treatment. For example, the hair often grows back very fine at first and may be a different texture, colour and possibly curly, even if it was previously straight. In most cases, your hair will revert over time Hair after Cancer back to its pre-cancer treatment condition and colour. Treatment With radiotherapy, your hair re- growth may be slower than with chemotherapy; it usually takes 6-12 months before you have a full head of hair and it may grow back finer than before the treatment. Some people’s hair never grows back following radiotherapy or it may grow back patchy. The process of re-growth can be a lot slower if you tend to wear your wig or cover your scalp 24 hours a day. If your new hair is exposed to daylight it tends to speed up the growth of your hair after treatment. 20
If you do not lose your Please note, due to the effect of the chemotherapy drugs on the hair through treatment hair, the end colour result may be affected. You may not end up Some people do not experience with the exact colour you were hair loss throughout their cancer expecting. treatment. We do not recommend that hair Caring for Hair is coloured during treatment. However, we recognise that some As we have discussed, hair growing people will want to colour their hair back after chemotherapy or and therefore we offer the following radiotherapy treatment is often advice: weak and low in protein. Therefore it is recommended to avoid • Advise your hairdresser of your strenuous or harsh brushing. Use the medical treatment so they can hairdryer on a gentle heat setting, allow for any influence this might rather than high heat. have on the colour result. • A strand test is also advised. In addition, the condition of the hair may be improved through regular • A skin sensitivity test should cutting by removing the damaged always be carried out, hair and promoting positive hair according to the manufacturer’s regrowth. instructions. • If there is any sign of a reaction Thinning Hair – redness, soreness, itching, irritation, etc – the colour should Thinning hair needs gentle Hair after Cancer be immediately washed off the treatment. Avoid vigorous or Treatment hair. strenuous brushing and combing. Paddle brushes often include • Use foiling techniques to keep nodules on the bristles, which offer the colour from coming into gentle massage of the hair and contact with the scalp. scalp. This encourages sebum • Avoid colours containing harsh production and stimulates blood chemicals, such as ammonia or flow. There are also massage resorcinol. brushes available for use during shampooing. These offer a gentle • Choose a semi-permanent scalp massage, as well as helping colour and so avoid oxidative to distribute the product across the pigments (PPDs/PTDs). head. • If using permanent colours, avoid the darker shades, as these have higher percentages of PPDs/PTDs (subject to hair analysis results). 20 21
Avoid shampoos containing harsh They can also help to repair and sulphates. Instead look for ones moisturise your scalp, reducing with natural plant oils (eg; Jojoba irritation and inflammation. and Sweet Almond Oil), which work in a similar way to the naturally Some ingredients used in such scalp occurring oils from our scalp and treatments include: condition the hair. Other key ingredients are UV filters, to protect Biotin, Folic Acid, Niacin, Thiamine the hair from harmful environmental HCL, Pantothenic Acid (Panthenol): influences and anti-oxidants, (eg; B vitamins, required for healthy skin, green tea and fennel), which help hair and nails. to prevent damage. Remember to advise your hairdresser of your Chamomile, Aloe Vera, treatment, so they can recommend Geranium, Rosemary extracts: the most suitable products for you anti-inflammatory, anti-septic and to use. soothing agents. When using hairdryers, use a low Fennel, green tea and tocopherol heat setting and minimise use of (vitamin E): anti-oxidants, which hair straighteners and other styling help to prevent damage caused appliances, as these operate at by unstable molecules. high temperatures. Regular trims may help to stimulate positive hair Until such time that your hair is regrowth. Also, avoid tight hair-up long enough to shampoo, an styles, to prevent stress on the hair. aqueous cream may be suitable for cleansing and moisturising the hair The Scalp and Hair and scalp. Once your hair is long Hair after Cancer enough, you can begin to use a Re-Growth gentle shampoo and conditioner. Treatment Selected ingredients that can have Healthy hair requires a healthy a positive influence on hair and scalp. Hair needs the correct scalp include the following: amount of nutrients which are supplied through the network of Proteins, for example, Hydrolysed vessels and nerves in the scalp and Wheat Protein, Hydrolysed which stimulate growth. Your scalp Keratin and Wheat Amino Acids can be very dry, sensitive and scaly are ingredients in some hair following chemotherapy. There conditioners. They help to build up are special treatments available the strength and stability of the hair. for scalps. These treatments deliver The structure of these proteins is nutrients to the scalp and protect similar to that of naturally occurring it from harmful environmental keratin in our hair. influences. 22
Plant oils, such as Jojoba and Sweet Surfactants are the cleansing agent Almond Oil, are popular ingredients. in a shampoo. They are partly They work in a similar way to the water soluble, partly oil soluble and natural occurring oils from our scalp increase the spreading and wetting (sebum), form a thin film over the properties of a liquid. They are often hair’s cuticle and condition and the foaming agent in shampoos. soften the hair. This can improve Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate is the feel, suppleness and shine of an example of an extremely mild the hair. Dry hair lacks sebum and surfactant made from coconut can be helped by using products derivatives. which contain Pantothenic Acid (also called Panthenol). This is used (The above information is endorsed in both rinse off and leave in hair by the Institute of Trichologists) conditioner. Colouring Hair Post- Sunflower Seed Oil contains a high content of Vitamin E and may give Cancer Treatment other beneficial properties when applied to skin and hair. It can Although there is little evidence- also protect from UV light. UV filters based research in this area, current are important to help protect the medical guidance suggests waiting hair from harmful environmental six months before permanently influences, such as damage from colouring your hair. This is due to the sun, pollution, etc. scalp sensitivity and the fragility of the new hair growth. Even after Anti-inflammatory, anti-septic a suitable period of time, a hair and soothing agents are useful professional should always do a skin sensitivity test to highlight any Hair after Cancer for sensitive scalps, for example Aloe Vera, Geranium, Rosemary, potential allergic reaction to the Treatment Bergamot and Chamomile extracts. colour, as well as doing a wet stretch test on your hair to check Conditioning and moisturising strength and elasticity before agents include Panthenol (Vitamin colouring. Finally, a strand test to B12) and Comfrey extract. check the colour result should be completed. If you are distressed by the colour of your new hair, professionals advise that temporary or semi- permanent hair colours be used until the hair becomes stronger. If using permanent colours, avoid the darker shades, as these have higher percentages of pigments (PPDs and PTDs). 23
It is recommended to use off- any discomfort. It is very difficult the-scalp (foiling) techniques to to achieve a satisfactory colour begin with, to stop the colour from result on hair which is not in good coming into contact with the scalp. condition and different results Also, avoid aggressive chemicals achieved can be due to hair in in hair colours, such as ammonia or different condition. It is important resorcinol. that you seek expert stylist advice prior to any attempts to colour your Before you begin to colour your hair. hair, consult a hair professional, who will be able to assess the strength In the initial period following and condition of your hair and chemotherapy, hair may not advise any specific products you respond to colour in the normal should use. It is essential to note that way and a trained hair professional colouring should not take place will draw this to your attention. if your hair and scalp are brittle, The final colour result can be excessively dry or flaky, irritated or affected by many things such as breaking. Colouring must only be medication, condition of hair and carried out once your scalp and previous colouring. A professional hair are both healthy and able to colourist, who is familiar with these go through the colouring process considerations, will be able to without damage or causing you advise you. Types of Hair Colour Hair after Cancer Technique Pigment Type Effect on Hair Example Products Treatment Temporary Direct Pigment Coats the hair and Colour mousse lasts 1 wash Semi-permanent Direct Pigment Coats the hair and Semi-permanent lasts 6-8 washes colour Demi-permanent Oxidative Penerates the Permanent Pigment cuticle and lasts colour with a more than 8 low level of washes peroxide Permanent Oxidative Changes the Permanent Pigment existing colour in colour with the hair medium to high level of peroxide 24
Hair colour has been extensively Relaxing/Straightening tested to ensure it is safe to use under the conditions stated by Hair Post-Cancer the manufacturer. However, it is Treatment possible to be or become allergic to one or more of the ingredients The relaxing and straightening of used in hair colour. Other factors hair is only recommended for hair which can cause an adverse that is in good condition and of reaction to hair colour include a suitable length. The repeated tattoos, permanent make-up and combing of the hair during the medication. process can put it under a lot of stress and particularly hair that is If any of these apply to you or weak in protein can be prone to you have experienced a previous breaking under these conditions. reaction to hair colour or have Damaged hair should be treated other allergies, always advise your according to the results of the wet stylist. A skin sensitivity test should stretch test until it is in a suitable always be carried out before condition for relaxing/straightening. colouring. Hair after Cancer Treatment 25
The straightening of Afro Caribbean method you choose, hair extensions hair is not advised at all until the and weavings can also lead to hair and scalp are fully recovered. further hair loss or thinning. When As with colouring, relaxing or the weave is done too tightly it straightening should not take place can pull on existing hair and lead if the hair and scalp are brittle, to premature shedding. Weaving excessively dry or flaky, irritated or can also damage hair follicles breaking. causing breakage at the point of attachment. To help reduce the chance of damage or shedding, Benefits and Side Effects professional stylists should only apply extensions and proper care of Hair Extensions and should be taken of existing hair Weaving and extensions as long as they are attached. Hair extensions and weaving can As this technique can be damaging offer some temporary benefits, to existing hair strands, individuals including giving hair more volume. need to think about the risk of For individuals with healthy hair, this procedure. If you have very extensions offer an alternative little hair, or excessive thinning, to thinning hair and hair loss. extensions may increase the risk of However, for damaged hair this is further hair loss. not generally encouraged. Many individuals do not like the worry that accompanies temporary hair extensions. These extensions can fall out easily, must be removed Hair after Cancer before bathing or swimming, and can be blown off in the wind. Treatment However, depending on the We hope that you have found this information helpful. If you have further queries regarding hair loss that you would like to discuss, please do contact us. Helpline: 01798 812547 www.mynewhair.org email: info@mynewhair.org Registered charity number 1130815 We rely solely on donations to continue our work 26
Other Useful Information Alopecia Areata Support Cancer and Careers UK Alopecia Areata Support run a Directory of essential contacts for support group for people suffering women living and working with from Alopecia. They host regular cancer. You can find information support meetings and have and advice on everything from representatives in the UK and hair loss to programmes offered by internationally. employers for working women with www.alopeciaareatasupport.co.uk cancer. www.cancerandcareersuk.org Alopecia Beauty Tips Alopecia Beauty Tips aims to Cancerbackup provide women suffering from Cancerbackup has merged with Alopecia the confidence they Macmillan to provide more than need to look and feel fantastic. 6,000 pages of online advice and www.alopeciabeautytips.com pledges to answer ‘any questions about any cancer’. Helpline: 0808 800 0000 Cancer and Alopecia Support Tel: 020 7840 7840 Services www.cancerbackup.org.uk The aim of Alopecia UK is to provide information, advice and support for people with experience of Cancer Black Care alopecia areata, alopecia totalis, Cancer Black Care information and alopecia universalis. centres offer information and www.alopeciaonline.org.uk support for people with cancer from ethnic communities, their friends, carers and families. Tel: 020 8961 4151 www.cancerblackcare.org.uk Other Useful Information 27
CLIC Sargent Look Good...Feel Better CLIC Sargent is a children’s cancer Look Good...Feel Better is the charity that aims to help children beauty industry’s charity. It runs free and young people survive cancer skin care and make up workshops and make the most of their lives. for cancer sufferers across the UK. They provide support to the patient Tel: 01372 747 500 and their family through diagnosis, Email: info@lgfb.co.uk treatment and afterwards. www.lookgoodfeelbetter.co.uk Helpline: 0800 197 0068 Tel: 020 8752 2800 (London branch) Email: helpline@clicsargent.org.uk Macmillan Cancer Support www.clicsargent.org.uk Macmillan Cancer Support aim to improve the lives of people affected by cancer. They provide Christine Headwear practical, medical and financial Tel: 01538 399541 support and push for better cancer www.christineheadwear.co.uk care. Tel: 0808 800 0000 www.macmillan.org.uk Institute of Trichologists The Institute of Trichologists is the foremost professional association Maggie’s Centres for Trichologists in the world. You Maggie’s Centres allow people can contact them or check living with cancer to access help their website to find a registered with information, benefits advice, trichologist in your area. psychological support both Helpline: 0845 604 4657 individually and in groups, courses Email: admin@trichologists.org.uk and stress reducing strategies under one roof. www.trichologists.org.uk Tel: 0300 123 1801 Email: enquiries@maggiescentres. Little Princess Trust org The Little Princess Trust provides real www.maggiescentres.org hair wigs to children suffering from hair loss. They supply and fully fund Other Useful the wigs from all over the world, Information and provide personal fitting/styling to ensure the wig is as close as possible to the original hair. Tel: 0845 094 4509 www.littleprincesses.org.uk 28
My New Hair Wig Suppliers and Alternative My New Hair is a national Headwear independent charity providing Bandanashop.com information, advice and support for people experiencing medical Claims to offer the largest selection hair loss. They provide access to a of bandanas in the UK. Although responsibly trained national network not specifically geared towards of hairdressers. cancer sufferers, the products have a young and funky feel. Helpline: 01798 812547 Tel: 0800 678 5528 www.mynewhair.org www.bandanashop.com National Alopecia Areata Foundation Black Care UK NAAF support research to find a Black Care UK is an internet based cure or acceptable treatment for company selling Afro Caribbean alopecia, they support those with beauty products. They offer a wide the disease and educate the public range of hair care products which about alopecia areata. can be purchased online. www.naaf.org Tel: 020 8279 0335/0337 Email: info@blackcareuk.com www.blackcareuk.com Teenage Cancer Trust The Teenage Cancer Trust provide advice and support for young Buff people suffering from cancer. ‘Buff’ headwear is a versatile strip of Teenage Cancer Trust units exist in breathable micro-fibre material that hospitals around the country. can be worn in 12 different ways. Tel: 020 7612 0370 It is not specifically designed for www.teenagecancertrust.org cancer sufferers which will appeal to younger women (or the young at heart). Top 50 Blogs for Understanding & Tel: 01707 852 244 Coping with Alopecia www.buffwear.co.uk This article provides sources of support and information for men, Other Useful Information women and children living with alopecia. www.msndegree.com/top-50- blogs-for-understanding-coping- with-alopecia 29
The Hairdressing and Beauty NHC Necessity Headwear Suppliers Association Collection The HBSA is a network of industry At NHC the ranges of hats, hair professionals, and includes the accessories, wraps, caps, turbans, Association of UK Wig Suppliers. fringes and headscarves are The HBSA website contains a uniquely designed for those list of all of the UK wig suppliers suffering from medical hair loss. registered with them that you can Tel: 01992 474104 contact directly to find your most Email: info@necessityheadwear. local agent. com Tel: 01707 649 499 www.necessityheadwear.com www.hbsa.uk.com Suburban Turban Hats 4 Heads Suburban Turban, founded by Hats 4 Heads aim to provide milliner Nicky Zip, has a range stylish hats for all ages with one of contemporary headwear main requirement: they must be designed specifically for women comfortable for people who have experiencing hair loss. lost their hair through illness. Tel: 0845 003 2800 Tel: 0161 941 6748 Email: nicky@suburbanturban. Email: info@hats4heads.co.uk co.uk www.hats4heads.co.uk www.suburbanturban.co.uk Headstrong from Breast Cancer 4myhead.com Care 4myhead.com is an online shop Free service offered by Breast providing stylish hats and scarves Cancer Care for people with for those experiencing hair loss cancer. They offer tips on hair from cancer treatment. and scalp care, and help people Tel: 07505 028099 experiment with scarves, hats and hairpieces in a comfortable and Email: info@4myhead.com private environment. www.4myhead.com Helpline: 0808 800 600 Tel: 0845 092 0800 Other Useful Information Email: info@breastcancercare. org.uk www.breastcancercare.org.uk 30
Would you like more information or to become a Friend of My New Hair We would like to be able to keep you up-to-date with what is happening in our charity, future fundraising and other planned events. If you would like further information or to become a “Friend of My New Hair” and are happy for us to contact you, please would you kindly complete the information below and return this to us. My New Hair Roffey Park Institute Forest Road Horsham West Sussex RH12 4TB You can contact our helpdesk on 01798 812547 or email info@mynewhair.org I would like to become a “friend of My New Hair” please tick I would like further information please tick Name :_ _______________________________________________________ Address:_ ______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ Email:__________________________________________________________ Telephone:_____________________________________________________ Please note that this information is for My New Hair use only. Should you not wish to receive any further information you can unsubscribe by emailing info@mynewhair.org or by calling our helpdesk 01798 812547
My New Hair is a national independent charity providing information, advice and support for people experiencing medical hair loss. They provide access to a responsibly trained national network of hairdressers. Registered Charity Number 1130815 For further information please visit www.mynewhair.org You can contact our helpdesk on info@mynewhair.org or call us on 01798 812547 Print sponsors:
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