XP RI NC#MYHAUTELOIRE - N 1 - HAUTE-LOIRE, THE BEST-KEPT SECRET IN AUVERGNE P.3 - AUVERGNE VACANCES
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#myHauteLoire - n°1
xp ri nc
The magazine that reconnects with simple pleasures
Haute-Loire,
the best-kept secret
in Auvergne
p.3
File
STONE IN ALL ITS
GLORY
p.17
A FEAST FOR THE SENSES
the perfect recipe to let go
p.28
6 gems Haute-Loire
Climb to the top of Mont
Mézenc for a 360° sunrise
T he dawn light slips through the leafy forest trail
in Les Estables, the highest village in the Massif
Central. Then it appears before your eyes, the «Bald
Giant of the Cévennes» at 1753m. A light breeze whips
up and you get your reward: a breath-taking view of
South West France bathed in the sun’s glowing rays.
A 45 minute ascent is enough to chat with Mont
01
Gerbier-de-Jonc, Puy de Sancy, the Cévennes, Alps
05
and Mont-Blanc.
Tackle the rapids Take a hot-air
02 in the Gorges
de l’Allier
balloon ride over the
wild Loire gorges and
its first châteaux
Château de Léotoing
T his morning we’re going
rafting with Olivier, our guide
G littering in the morning dew, the
T
for our adrenalin-pumping trip hot-air balloon slowly inflates to
down this almost inaccessible weightlessly transport us. You feel tiny
ruly experiencing the 03 WIDE ANGLE river’s rapids. On the agenda: in the basket that seems to float above
the endless landscapes. The wind alone
Haute-Loire means taking Trou du Curé, Rince-Sinus and stops
a deep breath and inhaling 6 Haute-Loire gems to dive off the granite rock before a knows where it will take us...
the land, soaking up all Portfolio picnic on the sand and pebble beach.
The afternoon is more chilled out
the colours, views and
with a canoe ride down calmer water
aromas that Auvergne is renowned for. to Langeac. Then it’s a train ride back
This new issue explores the Haute-Loire
to bring you some of its secrets and turn
10 like a fish to water to Monistrol-d’Allier whilst we relive
our exciting adventure.
your stay here into a unique experience Canoeing, the start of an adventure Trudge around
so you can give free rein to your passions In the realm of the Salmon King the ridges of the
and "let go". Reconnect with Mother Nature Colorado Auvergnat
04
«Mountains and Volcanoes», «Sources
and Wild Rivers», «Culture and It’s like the Earth’s crust has cracked open to
give us a glimpse of its beige, green and blue
06
Footpaths» are just some of the worlds 17 STONE IN ALL ITS GLORY clay layers up to 50m thick. Slow geological
Lose yourself in the
work that makes these Ravins de Corboeuf
you'll explore as you turn the pages. Le Puy-en-Velay Profile feel like canyons. You may get a glimpse of it Gorges de l’Allier’s
They're teeming with gems that locals Open-air decor from the hamlet of Chastel (Rosières) but you hilltop villages
and tourism professionals are delighted don’t realise how huge this sedimentary giant
Memory springs from history
to share with you so you can reconnect
I
is until you take the 3.2km footpath around it. t’s as if time has stood still as we stroll
with simple pleasures. through the majestic and serene Chan-
teuges Abbey. We can’t resist a few stops
Marie-Agnès PETIT, 28 A FEAST FOR THE SENSES Hop on board the highest to unearth the secrets of villages sculp-
President of Haute-Loire Tourism
Report: Is Saint-Bonnet the most foodie
village in France?
03 steam train in France
ted by volcanic stone such as Saint-Ar-
cons-d’Allier, Saint-Ilpize, Chilhac and
Auzon before heading off to gaze at one
Fine Food
Nuts about Auvergne
A cheerful whistle rings out and a puff
of steam wafts past our windows.
We’re sitting comfortably on board the
of the Haute-Loire’s 4 «Most Beautiful
Villages in France» (p. 22).
What to bring back in your suitcase? elegant Belle Epoque carriages and we’re off
on the Velay Express for a trip back in time
at an altitude of over 1000m.(Raucoules,
Tence and Le Chambon-sur-Lignon).
[2018 Issue] 34 Find your way (Raucoules, Tence and Le Chambon-sur-Lignon).
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mountain & volcanoes
The mountain sets the scene for us...
It’s up to us to come up with the
story to go with it!
Nicolas Helmbacher (adventurer)
Feel the power of the volcanoes
from Mont Mézenc
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Sources and Wild Rivers
Get up close and personal with white water in the Gorges Kingfisher
de l’Allier (Chapelle Sainte-Marie-des-Chazes)
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Seek the meaning of life on
the Santiago de Compostela route
(Chapelle de Rochegude)
culture & footpaths
They did not know it was
impossible, so they did it.
Mark Twain
Be curious in the Cloister
at La Chaise-Dieu Abbey
Gaze in wonder at
Saint-Julien Basilica in Brioude
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The Gorges de la Loire from
Chazelles (Monistrol-sur-Loire)
Sailing through
untamed
n g
territory
i
Secrets
Can o e
of the stones Jérôme is passionate about the
Gorges de la Loire and it’s obvious.
This boat is undoubtedly the
most natural way to see the ba-
When he joins your «canoe» trip Fishing for
it’s like he’s opening the doors into
salt giants and stone villages that
his own wild land that he wants to
adventure
seem to watch over the furrowed
protect. He tells us the story of ot-
Gorges de l’Allier. Then we stop Steeve is a master at finding the
ters, red kites and snowy mespilus.
for a coffee on the sun-soaked River As we’re paddling along we can see
best fishing spots in the Allier.
t of a n
banks of Lavoûte-Chilhac and a What could be better than a canoe
explorer the natural symbiosis that we’re
T he sta r stroll in Vieille-Brioude’s parks.
quietly caught up in.
to reach them? Two days unear-
d v e n t u re! We set off from Bageasse beach
If you see a canoe with some
thing our inner trappers with bi-
a with a guide on a nautical trail® to
find out more about these waters
funny explorers on board with
thermometers in one hand and
Lavoûte-sur-Loire in Aurec-sur-
vouacs to boot...
«It’s time to sample local speciali-
teeming with salmon. Loire: velay-eaux-vives.fr. ties cooked on the barbecue. The
nets and masks in the other: Hire also available in atmosphere at that very moment is
stop! It’s Allierypso: a floating the Retournac/Bas-en- at its height. Everyone relives their
Ages 6 and up. Half-day, full day scientific base jam-packed with
Venturing off the beaten track means choosing another Basset areas: tourisme- day with a head full of memories
or 3-day trip from Prades to Au- fun-filled educational equipment. marchesduvelayrochebaron.fr and images! Just like the fishing
way to paddle. So we’re leaving the overcrowded zon: 20/25km per day (approx. A beaver skull is unearthed and the ot-des-sucs.fr scenes in «A River Runs Through It»
waterways to go on a real adventure: 5 hrs). Accommodation in B&Bs, investigation into the rodent be- Confolent/Aurec-surLoire : starring Brad Pitt. Everyone takes
one which opens our eyes to the world so we can get to stopover gîtes or campsites. Solo gins. Tracks on the beach spark our aurec-sports.fr their turn to tell their best jokes.
grips with our surroundings. or guided village tours. curiosity that draws us to the semi-
The laughter is infectious. We’re all
tonic-aventure.fr aquatic mammals. A discussion
completely disconnected from our
gorges-allier.com about water levels and the river’s
everyday lives. Mission accom-
ot-brioude.fr hydrology is clear as crystal.
plished for the monitors and their
trappers.» Éric, fishing enthusiast.
«The highlight of the day was passing through Lavoûte-Chilhac where Look out for them in summer as
the river carves out an «omega» around the stunning village. On top of you go round a bend between
that there were dozens of kingfishers, white-throated dippers, herons, Trapper canoe fishing breaks in
Langeac and Brioude (Les Pieds à
cormorants and cows! We’re even sleeping with them tonight...» the Allier or horseback fishing in the
Terre).
Loire: emotionpeche.com
lespiedsaterre.fr
Paul and Philippe during «La Grande Traversée»:
a unique challenge from Geneva to Saint-Nazaire that they did in
summer 2017.
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La Tallide, bend in the Allier River
in Saint-Vénérand,
the birthplace of Atlantic salmon
Grayling, a wild aggressive fish
sought-after by sport fishing fans.
Salmon leaping
out of the Allier’s water
Auvergne grayling,
The chef’s favourite fish
Shedding Light
on Auvergne’s
Grayling Area
Meet a great Is there a pretender to the salmon’s
migrator throne? Grayling... The Allier River
is an incredible breeding ground
Salmon reigns supreme here. Eve- for species that only live in fres-
ry bridge over the Allier from Lan- hwater. Grayling is one of them and
geac to Brioude salutes it with the it’s also a fantastic bioindicator.
plaque «Allier, rivière à saumons» Hurray, remember that there are
(Allier, salmon river). 3300km of category 1 rivers in
in the realm of the People from all over Europe used the Haute-Loire! This Thymallus King of
salmon
«I mainly catch brown
to come here to go fishing. There from the Salmonidae family loves freshwater fish
were so many people that the la- fresh and well-oxygenated water. It
trout. I trained in the bourers who were building the «Le swims in the currents of the Gorges Nicknamed the «King of Delights» in
Dunière, Semène and Al- Cévenol» railway track in the late de l’Allier, the Ance river and the Germany, the «Lady of the Stream»
lier rivers. The standard 19th century went on strike because Loire’s high valley. What’s the in Britain and the «Thymallus
I
of water is great in the they were given salmon to eat 2 or benefit of fishing for it? It lasts into Queen» in Italy, the grayling’s
K NG
Haute-Loire and there’s a 3 times a week! autumn/winter in category 2 rivers
We don’t just do a spot delicate flesh and sweet thyme
good density of fish. The species is now protected and whilst Mrs Brown Trout rests.
of fishing in the Haute- fragrance has won over Michelin-
And the number of rivers the Conservatoire National du
Loire! Salmon swims starred chef Philippe Brun who has
is incredible.» Saumon Sauvage (National Wild
pechehauteloire.fr since become a leading ambassa-
5000-10,000km along Salmon Conservation Centre) in dor for the so-called «King of Fres-
Jean-François Vialette the currents from Green- Chanteuges pampers it to ensure it hwater Fish».
recent world land to come to breed reproduces, is safeguarded and to With its great flavours and thriving
junior fly fishing in the Gorges de l’Allier. teach our little ones about protec- breeding in Chanteuges, grayling
champion There’s proof of the ting the aquatic environment. has made its way onto the best chefs’
excellent standard of the menus: Régis and Jacques Marcon
water here. We salute this Salmon breeding tours: and as far as Aveyron with Chef
amazing tourist. You can’t saumon-sauvage.org Sébastien Bras to become a pre-
catch salmon as it’s a pro- mium fish.
tected species, but fishing La Maison du Saumon et de la
fanatics can catch grayling Rivière (Salmon and River Centre)
and brown trout. (Brioude)
aquariummaisondusaumon.com
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Mont Gerbier-de-Jonc (1551m)
t
r e co n n e c The Cévennes to Chapeauroux route / The New World
r
(Gorges de l’Allier)
M othe
re
w i th
Natu
Here, all roads lead to the source. A source of
stamina with trails flirting with the Loire and
Allier, 2 rivers that spring up on the edge of
the Haute-Loire... or a source of spirituality
and history with the Santiago de Compostela
route.
Walking these footpaths is a great way to
recharge your batteries: go back to basics,
reconnect with nature and, along the way,
get back to your own nature. An unexpected GO EXPLORING
train ride
With stages lasting between
We hop on board the Gorges de 20 and 25km, the route is first and
l’Allier Tourist Train in Lan- foremost a physical challenge. But
geac to Langogne to see the
wild and volcanic gorges that no
Walking like there’s far more to it! From Le Puy-
en-Velay Cathedral, a start point
Geography The rare pearl 1st digital GR® road has ever reached. An unex- a pilgrim for the Santiago de Compostela
route, everyone goes on their own
lesson in the hiking trail pected train ride at slow speeds
great outdoors
As you wander around the uplands
in France
as you approach the best sites. and making journey: self-discovery, friendship,
spirituality, nature, creativity etc.
of the wild Loire Valley, you
the most of
Photo opportunities guaranteed!
stumble upon the Bonnefont mine- Before our very eyes is a parade
Everyone in France learns in geo- Pack light with the first digital
graphy class that the Loire River’s
ral water spring in Saint-Martin-
de-Fugères. Operated until 1914 pocket hiking guide. It’s free too!
of unspoilt landscapes sculpted by
the water and volcanoes intersper- the path is
source is on Mont Gerbier-de-Jonc.
So it’s obvious that you take the
and rich in trace elements, it was
said to have health benefits: diure-
It guides us as we follow the
Allier back up to Brioude to its
sed by 16 tunnels and 51 viaducts.
The train shares the best secrets
a source of
GR® 3 up the river to its source.
160km of paths from Aurec-sur-
tic, anti-rheumatic and digestive.
« No to alcohol...but yes to chaly-
source at an altitude of 1500m
on Moure de la Gardille in Lo-
of the Gorges de l’Allier with extra
anecdotes and funny stories from
inspiration
Loire to walk along, cross, span and
contemplate the wild river until
beate! » said Bourvil. zère. Hiking the «Sources &
Gorges de l’Allier» GR® 470
the guide. journey.
you reach its source in the Ardèche. trail is an ode to landscapes that Lu Yongzhong,
Along the way you can fill the cup mezencloiresauvage.com are as diverse as they are drama- train-gorges-allier.com painter
of your hands with its clear water tic: rows of gorges, hairpin bends, Arrival at the Domaine du Sauvage
(Chanaleilles), a welcoming hotspot
to freshen up and set off again with granite and basalt plateaus, volca- for Santiago pilgrims managed by a
your best foot forward. nic curiosities, stunning resinous group of farmers
sauvage-en-gevaudan.com
or leafy forests and more. To end
the trip on a high, a train ride back
rando-hauteloire.fr
along the river on the legendary Le
Cévenol railway is a must.
gr470-gorgesallier.com
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le
Puy-en-Velay
Go your own way
There are lots of ways to get to
Le Puy-en-Velay.
Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe
You can reach the Jacobean route
Rock, start point for the from Geneva and most recently
GR® 300 that will link
up the top Saint Michael
from Cluny and Lyon if you pack through the lens of
the brand new GR® 765 hiking
Instagramers *
sites in Europe including
Mont Saint-Michel.
(Digital TopoGuide®
guide in your backpack.
hiking guide available for
the route from Aiguilhe
to Ébreuil in the Allier) rando-hauteloire.fr
« Le Puy is a town of art and history that has transformed its volcanic
architecture to glow in Southern French colours in a matter of years. »
Jean-Claude
@jcg48
*shots published by Instagram users. #myHauteLoire #LePuyenVelay
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« …its unique, special atmosphere, « Its colourful houses, its old porches « When I reached the top of the
the start point for pilgrims on the and doors worn down by time, a staircase after 268 steps at sunset,
Santiago de Compostela route. » town that’s teeming with gems and I felt something special as I explored
secrets... » the little chapel standing on a former
Christine volcanic pipe and the incredible views
@en.instantanes Blandine encompassing the town... » « Where do you start? What with local produce galore, the colours of Le
@blandinette42 Puy-en-Velay, its fabulous history and warm-hearted locals, it was hard to
leave at night. In a few words: Le Puy is joy in its purest form! »
André
@andre_berthet
A slice of local life
Le Puy-en-Velay By Laurette, a local foodie and
addict of Le Puy-en-Velay’s
market market which is known as the
best in Auvergne.
The so-called «Porche de la Parole» Rue Séguret, a narrow lane uptown At the peak of Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe Rock Saturday, 6am, the streets are filling with a crate of vegetables from local
cathedral porch
benches, boards, calling voices, rolling producers that he’ll cook in his
carts that whip along the town’s old restaurant. I don’t leave the market before
8 illumination shows at cobbles. Here they are... I gobble up my I’ve seen Christophe the beekeeper to
landmarks in and around breakfast so I can join them. woo me with his floral honey.
It’s as town from late April to
I scoot to the covered marketplace to find It’s already midday so it’s a great time
though late September every
Raphaël, the baker with the big smile who to meet up with friends. I find them on
the rays of evening at nightfall.
sells crusty organic bread made using a terrace on the covered market square
light were heritage flour straight from the oven. Then looking for the last table for us to soak
puydelumieres.fr it’s off to Place du Plot to find Véro and her up the last of the sun. A little get-
creating
famous «artisous» cheese. She hands me together with a bit of Auvergne wine and
a halo a piece as though I’ve never tried it before. bread, cheese and cured meats with the
around the Unmissable! memory of all the smiling faces we’ve
landmarks. seen on this special morning.
On the way I visit brothers Antoine and
Stéphane in the hope of leaving with
the last saucisson. «Nice and dry for
The cathedral, the town’s landmark, Mademoiselle!» I nod as I go past Fred
during «Le Puy de Lumières» and the
Notre-Dame de France statue in the who’s proudly holding
background
18 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 19Le Puy-en-Velay, the start point for the UNESCO World Heritage
Santiago de Compostela route
20 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 21Haute-Loire open-air decor
Seeking out the most beautiful villages in France 4 « Plus Beaux Villages de France »
Arlempdes, picturesque and overlooked by the Blesle, with its half-timbered houses, film set for A peaceful atmosphere with the scent of days gone by The intriguing setting of the former Lavaudieu
ruins of one of the first châteaux on the banks of the «La nouvelle guerre des boutons» starring Kad Merad. whips up the lanes in Pradelles. Abbey’s cloister, a star in «Crimson Rivers II».
untamed Loire.
22 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 23Haute-Loire, open-air decor
Standing like a sentry, the ruins overlook the town of A hive of activity in the village of Le Monastier-sur- Picture-perfect Chilhac on the banks of the Allier
Allègre at the foot of Mont-Bar volcano. Gazeille, a start point for the famous Stevenson trail. and its staggering basalt columns.
Towns and villages
with personality
3 « Petites Cités de Caractère »
Secrets
of stones
Houses with
thatched roofs
reminiscent of
a Gaul village
in Bigorre and
Moudeyres.
The sun sets over the majestic fortress in Polignac. Medieval backdrop and terraced Time to think in La Chaise-Dieu Abbey, The medieval village of Chalencon
gardens in Auzon. a haven of peace. and its mysterious tale of the Devil’s Bridge.
24 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 25Hi s t o r y
FROM
me m o
s p r i n gs
r y Lafayette,
from the Haute-
Loire to America
Homage Find out more about the locals’ commitment at
the Lieu de Mémoire in Le Chambon-sur Lignon
How about we get to know the fa-
mous Marquis de Lafayette, a hero to the Righteous
in 2 countries and a champion of
freedom? The «honorary citizen Did you know that the tradition for
of the United States of America» hospitality and spirit of resistance
was born on September 6th 1757 in and around Le Chambon-sur-Li-
gnon really came to the fore during
in the Château de Chavaniac-Lafa-
the Second World War?
Peak of the
yette. 1777 marked the beginning
of his American saga. Alongside The villages quietly and naturally Resistance
George Washington, he became transformed following the influx of
refugees with almost as many re- Let’s visit the Mont-Mouchet Re-
an «iconic» figure for American
fugees as there were households. sistance Museum in Auvers. The
independence. When he returned
Countless Jews and specifically tale of two cartoon characters,
to France he played a major part
children were saved among the re- Lucien and Pierrot, depicts the key
in the French Revolution in 1789
fugees. In 1990, people from in and events that made their mark on
which he threw himself into with
around Chambon were given a Yad this Auvergne resistance memorial
ideas he’d brought back from the
Vashem certificate of honour that site in a sensitive playful way. The
USA. The Treasury Room even has
distinguishes them as «Righteous 2 heroes joined the Mont-Mou-
an original copy of the Marquis’ De-
Among The Nations». chet group, one of the 5 largest
claration of the Rights of the Man
You can explore this period on a resistance gatherings in France,
and of the Citizen. A 300 year old
historical and educational visit to in spring 1944. What did they do?
oak tree that has borne witness to
the remarkable Lieu de Mémoire They stopped the German army
the saga stands in the middle of the
Museum in Le Chambon-sur-Li- from advancing from their base in
château grounds.
gnon. A moving journey that en- the South of France to Normandy.
capsulates the fate of the men and Authentic items, documents, pho-
chateau-lafayette.com women involved in the resistance tos and videos surround us with
that was civil, spiritual and armed the realities of the time and reveal
all in one. the secrets of the Auvergne Resis-
tance throughout the visit.
memoireduchambon.com
resistance-mont-mouchet.com
Château de Lafayette
in the middle of its remarkable grounds
26 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 27Report
7
restaurants
for 260 inhabitants
13-star restaurant
regismarcon.fr
Is Saint-Bonnet the most
foodie village in France? 3
Bibs Gourmands
le-fort-du-pre.fr
What sets Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid apart is the standard of its restaurants with regismarcon.fr/bistrot-la-
a record number of eateries and culinary awards. Let’s find out more about coulemelle
restaurant-chatelard.com
an incredible area from Marie-France Neyron, a «keeper of memory» for this
collective adventure.
So tell me...how do you explain the incredible Why did Régis introduce mushrooms into his dishes?
100
hospitality/catering jobs
restaurant scene in Saint Bonnet? Here we have a mushroom legacy and the tradition of and 260 guest beds
It all stems from Saint-Bonnet’s location almost 1200m the mushroom fair that’s been running since the Middle
high at the top of a mountain pass on the edge of the Ages. People would pick mushrooms and dry them on
Ardèche and Haute-Loire. Monks from La Chaise-Dieu ropes in front of the fire in farms. Mushrooms sold for Up to
came here to clear the ground in the Middle Ages. So
you needed cafés and taverns for the men clearing the
ground. Then stagecoaches began to stop in Saint-
the same price as today at the All Saint’s Day fair. They
would swap goods with traders for warm clothes,
chestnuts, nuts and apples to get through winter. It was
1 ton
of dried mushrooms sold
Bonnet to eat and sleep. It all began because there was a way to survive. The 2-day fair now attracts at the Mushroom Fair
(1st weekend after All
nothing at all... 40,000 visitors. Saint’s Day)
And then? Is Saint-Bonnet the land of mushrooms?
Locals stayed here. An example is the Chatelard family Undoubtedly! It’s down to its wealth of woodlands,
who have been restaurateurs since their grandparents’ diverse soils and surrounding altitudes: it increases
generation. Then others came such as Chef Thierry the opportunities!
Guyot and his wife Cécile at Le Fort du Pré who hail
from the Lot region. We’re used to seeing snowy
otmontfaucon.fr
winters here. There’s a real sense of community.
Restaurateurs aren’t competitive. They’re pleased to
see others do well and everyone does well! [laughs].
Chef Régis Marcon must have helped the village
become famous?
Régis wasn’t going to live in Saint-Bonnet to start with. Pamper yourself after tickling your tastebuds at « When people come to Saint-Bonnet,
The Gault et Millau guide brought him to the world’s Les Sources du Haut Plateau spa
attention. He was offered jobs in Paris, Vichy, and in the they say they’re bound to find a good place to eat,
end he never wanted to leave his land. He brought a lot if not the first then it will be the next. »
of people with him. At the start we couldn’t believe it.
Then he trained lots of chefs who have stayed here such
as 2 Michelin-starred Serge Vieira in Chaudes-Aigues.
Régis is proud...He’s a driving force, he attracts others,
he’s very friendly: we never say «Mr Marcon» here,
everyone calls him Régis.
Régis and Jacques Marcon,
3-star restaurant in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid
28 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 29the pastry
x
Yssingeau
c a p i tal
of the
wo r l d
Nuts about Auvergne!
There are 46 of them. They’re crazy about Auvergne and its fine dining scene.
What have these Toques d’Auvergne always wanted?
To promote local produce by developing short supply chains with a close-knit network
of producers. And we’d say that current trends prove they’re right...
Château Day-long Advertorial
of Indulgence courses 12 chefs in the Haute-Loire Jacques Marcon
Restaurant Régis
ENSP has been The school was founded by the The prestigious school may pro- We’ve always Philippe Brun et Jacques Marcon
world-renowned for over Confédération des Pâtissiers and is vide 3-year Bachelor degrees in Hôtel Restaurant Le Haut-allier Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid
now run by Yves Thuriès and Alain the «Arts of Pâtisserie» but you can worked
30 years as a school for Alleyras - (00 33) (0)4 71 57 57 63 (00 33) (0)4 71 59 93 72
professionals in pastry, Ducasse. It has never stopped ex- also hone your skills on 2-month with local
bakery, chocolate, panding and has set a benchmark in long courses or even masterclasses produce and André Chatelard Rémy Michelas
the pastry world. for a 1/2 or full day. The best chefs Restaurant André et Viviane Hôtel Restaurant Le Bourbon
confectionery and ice
The school is based in the Château are here and you get stuck in. All strive to Chatelard Yssingeaux
cream arts. de Montbarnier in Yssingeaux in the the classes are in English: what respect the Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid (00 33) (0)4 71 59 06 54
Haute-Loire. It manages to combine would you expect from an interna- seasons, it’s (00 33) (0)4 71 59 96 09
the past and present, fun and func- tional school? Robert Redon
tionality, diversity and harmony. It one of our Sandy Caire Restaurant Le Poivrier
I have always has 8 highly-equipped laborato-
ensp-adf.com core values. L’atelier by Sandy Caire Le Puy-en-Velay
ries, a lecture room and recreational Beauzac - (00 33) (0)7 86 01 08 40 (00 33) (0)4 71 02 41 30
strived to areas. Its unique warm atmosphere Jean-François Fafournoux,
president of «Toques
pass on my encourages people with the same d’Auvergne» Dominique Dubray Gilles Roux
vision of passion to get together and learn. Hôtel Restaurant La Bougnate Restaurant La Tour
Blesle - (00 33) (0)4 71 76 29 30 Dunières
culinary and (00 33) (0)4 71 66 86 66
pastry arts Benoit Fromager
with a single Hôtel La Terrasse Eric Tournayre
Saugues - (00 33) (0)4 71 77 83 10 Restaurant Tournayre
motto in Le Puy-en-Velay
mind: Thierry Guyot (00 33) (0)4 71 09 58 94
excellence A great gift idea?
Hôtel Restaurant Le Fort du Pré
Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid Jean-Pierre Vidal
in practice. The Chèq’Toq voucher valid (00 33) (0)4 71 59 91 83 Restaurant Vidal
in «Toques d’Auvergne» Saint-Julien-Chapteuil
Alain Ducasse
restaurants and available to (00 33) (0)4 71 08 70 50
buy on toques-auvergne.fr
30 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 31Shopping What TO BRING BACK craft workshops
OPEN THE DOOR INTO
in your suitcase? Savoury treats
Mushrooms, mountain cured meats and
«artisous» cheese. The cheese’s unique
flavour comes from the tiny cheese
mites that age it by aerating the rind. The
«artisous» mites are hyperactive: a couple
conceives a million babies in 40 days. Now
Today’s
there’s a record to beat... designers
Producers and artists join create
Sweet treats forces to take their little
gems further than the
tomor-
row’s
Give into your sweet tooth with artisan
treats : Jam by Bruno Moutcoudiol markets:
(Monistrol-sur-Loire) and Vincent Brun
(Saint-Victor-Malescours), Confectionery
by Le Cheyne and Douceurs du Lignon
madeingevaudan.com
terroirsdehauteloire.com heritage
(Le Chambon-sur-Lignon), «Le goûter du hallefermiere.com
Marquis» Cake (Langeac/Paulhaguet) and Alcohol abuse is dangerous. Please
«La Pouzzolane du Velay» biscuits. drink responsibly.
A VEGETABLE PRINCESS
These lentils reign supreme with their
delicate skin and slightly floury kernel
enabling them to cook quickly. And
let’s not forget that they’re packed with
goodness: rich in plant protein, low in fat,
they contain twice as much fibre, more
potassium, phosphorus and iron!
Would you like seconds Popeye?
Marie and Michel Bérodot,
Red and black ceramicists, in Sembadel
They are ceramicists, stringed instrument makers, metalworkers,
Strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants,
blackcurrants, blueberries and
jewellers and more. All of them love to surprise people and put a
blackberries grown at over 1000m bit of their talent and soul into their work.
altitude: The Velay’s «Red and Black
Pearls»: rare and vibrant vitamins!
Lace unveiled Training Centre) in Le Puy-en-Velay
Le Puy-en-Velay’s old town is the place that provides courses all year round.
Verveine soft to gaze at lacemakers working their
or not ? magic and keeping this traditional Treat yourself to something unique
expertise alive. It’s so tempting to step Look out for the «Made in Haute-Loire»
Whether it’s an artisan liqueur for grandpa
or a herbal tea for grandma, you should into one of the shops and treat yourself label to bring back a unique souvenir.
always have some in reserve. Fabulous fabrics to a lace souvenir. Countless sites pay We head to the collective Escandhia
Why not use it to put a twist on a classic Scarves made using traditional local tribute to it and pass a passion for it boutique in Brioude and the pop-up
mojito? weaving techniques. They bear the onto future generations: the Hôtel de la shops on «Rue des Arts» in Le Puy-
«Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant» Dentelle (Lace Centre) in Brioude, the en-Velay: Rue Chènebouterie and Rue
Saint-Géron accreditation that recognises businesses
Musée des Manufactures de Dentelles Raphaël turn into a vibrant showcase
keeping traditional French expertise alive
Mineral Water (available to buy at Monistrol-sur-Loire (Lace Factory Museum) in Retournac, for thirty artisans between May and
Packed with minerals and rare trace Tourist Information). L’Atelier Conservatoire National de la September.
elements from the magma, you can hear it Dentelle (National Lace Conservation
let out a soft fizz when it escapes from the Studio) and Centre d’Enseignement
bottle designed by Argentine artist Alberto cma-hauteloire.fr
Bali. de la Dentelle au Fuseau (Bobbin Lace
32 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 33Way
fi nd yo ur
H a u te -Lo ir e
Tourist Information LOIRE-SEMÈNE
Centres otloiresemene.fr
for expert advice! PUY-DE-DÔME 18 / AUREC-SUR-LOIRE
(00 33) (0)4 77 35 42 65
19 19 / AUREC-SUR-LOIRE* (Aire Respirando)
04 Auzon 18
(00 33) (0)4 77 73 10 75
Aurec-
BRIOUDE SUD AUVERGNE 25 sur-Loire
ot-brioude.fr St-Pal-en-
01 / BRIOUDE (00 33) (0)4 71 74 97 49
11 Chalencon LOIRE MARCHES DU VELAY – ROCHEBARON
tourisme-marchesduvelayrochebaron.fr
02 / BLESLE (00 33) (0)4 71 74 02 76 02 Blesle La Chaise-Dieu 10 Craponne-
sur-Arzon Bas-en- 20 Monistrol-
03 / LAVAUDIEU* (00 33) (0)4 71 76 46 00 01 Basset sur-Loire 20 / BAS-EN-BASSET (00 33) (0)4 71 66 95 44
Brioude
22 21 / BEAUZAC (00 33) (0)4 71 61 50 74
Lavaudieu 22 / MONISTROL-SUR-LOIRE
GORGES DE L’ALLIER 21 (00 33) (0)4 71 66 03 14
03
24 23 St-Pal-
gorges-allier.com Beauzac de-Mons 23 / SAINT-PAL-DE-MONS
Ste-Sigolène (00 33) (0)4 71 75 06 60
04 / AUZON (00 33) (0)4 71 76 18 11 24 / SAINTE-SIGOLÈNE
05 / LANGEAC (00 33) (0)4 71 77 05 41 Paulhaguet (00 33) (0)4 71 66 13 07
06 / LAVOUTE-CHILHAC Allègre Vorey- 28 Retournac
sur-Arzon 26 25 / SAINT-PAL-EN-CHALENCON*
(00 33) (0)4 71 77 46 57 14 Montfaucon- (00 33) (0)4 71 66 19 53
07 / PRADELLES (00 33) (0)4 71 00 82 65 13 en-Velay
St-Bonnet-
08 / SAUGUES (00 33) (0)4 71 77 71 38 Yssingeaux le-Froid
Lavoûte-Chilhac
29 HAUT PAYS DU VELAY
06 27
otmontfaucon.fr
IN AND AROUND LE PUY-EN-VELAY CANTAL 12 St-Paulien
Tence 31
lepuyenvelay-tourisme.fr 26 / MONTFAUCON-EN-VELAY
05 Langeac Le Chambon-
(00 33) (0)4 71 59 95 73
09 / LE PUY-EN-VELAY (2 place du Clauzel) 27 / SAINT-BONNET-LE-FROID
(00 33) (0)4 71 09 38 41 sur-Lignon
(00 33) (0)4 71 65 64 41
10 / LA CHAISE-DIEU 30
Le Mazet-St-Voy
(00 33) (0)4 71 00 01 16 32
11 / CRAPONNE-SUR-ARZON 09 15
PAYS DES SUCS
(00 33) (0)4 71 03 23 14 Le Puy- St-Julien- ON THE BANKS OF THE LOIRE
12 / SAINT-PAULIEN (00 33) (0)4 71 00 50 01 en-Velay Chapteuil
ot-des-sucs.fr
13 / VOREY-SUR-ARZON
(00 33) (0)4 71 01 30 67 28 / RETOURNAC (00 33) (0)4 71 65 20 50
14 / ALLÈGRE* (00 33) (0)4 71 07 77 09 29 / YSSINGEAUX (00 33) (0)4 71 59 10 76
Le Monastier-
ARDÈCHE
08 sur-Gazeille
Saugues
MéZENC-LOIRE-MEYGAL 16 HAUT-LIGNON
mezencloiresauvage.com ot-hautlignon.com
Les Estables
15 / SAINT-JULIEN CHAPTEUIL 17 30 / LE-CHAMBON-SUR-LIGNON
(00 33) (0)4 71 08 77 70 Road and (00 33) (0)4 71 59 71 56
Paris
16 / LE MONASTIER-SUR-GAZEILLE 31 / TENCE (00 33) (0)4 71 59 71 56
tourist map
(00 33) (0)4 71 08 37 76 32 / LE MAZET-SAINT-VOY
available for (00 33) (0)4 71 65 07 32
17 / LES ESTABLES (00 33) (0)4 71 08 31 08
free from
the Haute- AUVERGNE RHÔNE-ALPES *information point
Loire Tourist
Information Clermont-Ferrand
Lyon
Centres. Pradelles
LOZÈRE 07 HAUTE-LOIRE
Marseille
Haute-Loire Tourist Board The production of this document has been funded by the Department as part of its policy to promote tourism in the Haute-Loire.
The Haute-Loire Tourist Board and its partners shall not be held responsible for any omissions or errors that this magazine may contain. We’d like to thank everyone who contributed to making the magazine.
Hôtel du Département - 1, place Monseigneur de Galard
43000 Le Puy-en-Velay - (00 33) (0)4 71 07 41 65 Head of publication: Marie-Agnès Petit.
Editorial: Haute-Loire Tourist Board.
contact@auvergnevacances.com
Design, creation and production: Trenta - trenta.fr / Agence studio N°3 - www.studioN3.fr
www.auvergne-experience.fr Printed in June 2018 - Publication copyright. Printed on material originating from responsibly managed forests.
Photo credits: Luc Olivier/MDDT 43, Dan Vincent Photography, OT Mézenc Loire Meygal (David Frobert/ Elyas Saens /Laurence Barruel), Jérémy Mazet / Soleil de minuit, Gérard Gardès, Julien Lhoste, Laurence Barruel, Les Globe Blogueurs, Fun
Join us and share Trott, Vincent Curuchet, Julien Rancon, Dmtex, Pixabay, Les pieds à terre, Fotolia, Digital Nautic, CNSS, Emotion Pêche, Le Haut, Allier, F. Lacombe/ Les Petits Baroudeurs , Philippe Gilibert, Zooomez, Luc Olivier, Jean-Claude Goletto, Blandine Barriol,
Christine Hierle, André Berthet, Les sources du Haut- Plateau/Laurence Barruel, Distillerie Pagès, Saint-Géron, Saveurs des Sucs/La vertueuse, OT MDVR, stock.adobe.com, Ecole Nationale de la Pâtisserie, Matthieu Cellard.
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