Volume 97, No 4 May 2022 - Auckland Tramping Club
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Volume 97, No 4 May 2022
Auckland Tramping Club Inc, PO Box 2358, Shortland St, Auckland 1140
Website: www.aucktramping.org.nz email: secretary@aucktramping.org.nz
CLUB CONTACTS
President:
In this issue
Tony Walton 027 478 5223
president@aucktramping.org.nz
Secretary:
03 President’s Column
Jim Morrow 021 264 6085
secretary@aucktramping.org.nz 04 News and Views
Treasurer:
Michael Champion 027 225 4451 09 Your ATC Diary
treasurer@aucktramping.org.nz
Sunday Trips: 10 Day Trips Programme
Tony Walton 027 478 5223
tonywalking@gmail.com 17 Multiday Tramp Programme
Weekend Trips: 17 West of Waitomo – May
Andrew Murdoch 021 489 206 18 Top of the North – June (Queen’s
trips@aucktramping.org.nz
Wednesday Trips:
Birthday)
Linda Webber 817 5111 18 Whirinaki Forest – July
Transport & Equipment:
Keith Ayton 630 7010 21 Trip Reports
transport@aucktramping.org.nz 21 Anniversary Weekend Medium
Membership Admin Trip
Liz Ware 524 7409 24 A Land of Gems
membership@aucktramping.org.nz
28 Round the Mountain Cycle Trip
Distribution:
Colin Wright 620 6713 31 Easy-Medium Kaimais Trip
distribution@aucktramping.org.nz 34 Tinny Trampers – Rakiura
Wanderlust Editor:
Dennis Brown 021 1955590 40 Trip Information
wanderlust@aucktramping.org.nz
Website:
Tony Walton 630 2591 The next Wanderlust will be our
website@aucktramping.org.nz
June 2022 edition, deadline for
Social Convenor:
Chris Burnett 021 1430676 contributions Friday 20 May.
burnett102@icloud.com Please send contributions to
Ngaro Te Kotare Hut: wanderlust@aucktramping.org.nz
Robin Houston 0274 310 010 with Wanderlust as the subject.
(8am – 5pm)
8177849 The deadlines for contributions
(7pm – 9pm) each month can be viewed on the
ntkhut@aucktramping.org.nz
Club website on the Wanderlusts
No calls after 9.00pm please
page under the News menu.
The deadlines for
Cover photo: Wading Cook Arm, Stewart contributions
Island – see report each
page 34.
month can be viewed
Auckland Tramping Club Inc, PO Boxat:2358, Shortland St, Auckland 1140
www.aucktramping.org
Website: www.aucktramping.org.nz email: secretary@aucktramping.org.nz
President’s column
It is that time again when we review our tremendous
club achievements and interesting financials for the past
year, and establish the committee for the coming year.
I know the current committee is highly dedicated and
capable, but really we would like to see some new
people around the committee table.
New people and new ideas would be wonderful to take
on board – so do get your nomination in by Friday 20th
May (more details below). If you have questions as to
what is involved as a committee member, or in any of
the specific positions, do give me a call and discuss with
other committee members as well.
Our Easter Ruahine trips all went well, with quite a
number of new members acquitting themselves exceedingly well in all parties.
The weather played havoc with most parties’ trip plans because of gale force
winds on the tops on Day 2 on a tantalising sunny, blue sky day. But this
provided a good example of modifying trip plans to suit the conditions, also a
good example of maps being different from the actual tracks on the ground.
This year we have now scheduled a further Basic Snow Skills course, also a
river crossing course via OTNZ, as a means to ensure club members have the
opportunity to upskill in areas that are important for our longer club trips.
The ATC Committee has now followed general public guidance and removed
the need for ATC trip members and people attending other club events to
have a vaccination pass. As always, it is critical that people who are not well,
including having a recent positive Covid infection, do not come on club trips.
Soon we will cast our minds to planning next summer’s adventures, so if there
is a trip you are especially keen to take on, start researching it and be ready to
discuss it with us soon. We of course have ready-made plans for our Medium
Interim and Safari bus trips to the South Island, because we had to cancel the
ones we had scheduled for this year.
For now, continue to take advantage of our interesting day and multi day trip
programmes, and please do join us at Club Nights that will be resuming from
May 11.
Tony Walton
3
News and views
ATC Covid-19 Requirements – updated
• A vaccination certificate is no longer needed to attend a Club trip or event
• Please don’t join a trip or event if you’re unwell
• When travelling on the bus, wear a mask
Life after Covid – Club nights
Breathing life back into this much enjoyed tradition!
Starting sedately. Tea but no cake. But, breaking with this tradition right away
for one month only:
Second Wednesday in the month. Wednesday 11th of May, 7pm
Featuring photos from the summer trips with:
• Robin Houston – risking life and limb on the flanks of Mt Earnslaw.
• Dennis Brown and co – an ambitious crossover from Makarora to Ohau
Lodge for dinner. Nine days on the hill, a story of leatherwood and toil.
Younger, tougher folk would have recoiled at the prospects!
Not to be missed.
Venue: Remuera Bowling Club, 6 Market Rd, Remuera
Parking: Down driveway between 3 and 5A Dromorne Rd
Time: 7.00pm for a 7.30pm start
Passing the baton
13 years – that’s how long Linda Webber has been running and leading our
Wednesday trips. That’s some stint! And in difficult times recently with the
Waitakere closures to work around.
Now she’s handing over the reins to Ian and Anna Roberts.
On behalf of us all, THANKS LINDA!
4
Annual Meeting Time and ATC Committee 2022
Our annual general meeting will be held at the Remuera Bowling Club, 3-5A
Dromorne Road, Remuera on Wednesday June 15th, commencing at 7.30pm
(doors open from 7pm).
Our Annual Report will be available online from mid May, and will be posted
out to printed mail recipients with the June Wanderlust.
We are really keen to have some new faces and ideas around the committee
table. Sure, you can sit back and just wait for the club to organise things for
you, but we would be much stronger and more appealing as a club with a
wide variety of people involved in its operation.
Some of us have been involved with the committee for a very long time, and
are more than willing to let you have a go too – it is very rewarding being part
of the management team of a club that achieves so much.
We have 6 committee meetings per year, some of which recently have been
via Zoom, and conduct a major part of our business via email. We aim for a
high degree of consensus when making decisions, taking into account the
views of all committee members. We are a no nonsense committee – we
make decisions quickly and move on … to the real business of tramping.
So all you need to do is ask another member to nominate you, and send the
nomination through to secretary@aucktramping.org.nz by Friday 20th May.
Positions available for nominations are president, secretary, treasurer and
general committee.
NTK deck looks a million dollars
Here it is, Ngaro Te Kotare’s stunning new deck.
Early users are glowing in their praise –
not only does it look a picture but it’s
created a much bigger and better
outdoor space.
Huge thanks to Jim and Brian for all
their work, and to their happy helpers
at the working bee.
We’re happy to report bookings have
picked up again after the Covid
disruptions, and that our on-line
booking system introduced last year is
working well.
5
Snowcraft Course 2022
The Club will run a snowcraft course again this winter, open to club members
only. Priority will be given to current members who have not previously
completed a Snowcraft course.
The aim of the course is to build your confidence to travel on snow and ice,
learning skills that allow you to venture into alpine tramping, eg, crossing a
snow covered pass. This will open up a whole new area of tramping to you.
We will not be going into rope work, that is for another time.
The course will take place in whatever weather is thrown at us, no
cancellations.
A booking form and gear list will be available in June.
Course date: Friday 29 - Sunday 31 July
Transport: Club bus
Venue: Alpine Sports Club Hut, Mt Ruapehu
Instructor: Jim Morrow
Cost: $160 (transport and accommodation)
Syllabus
• Basic Alpine skills, use of ice axe and crampons.
• Walking with ice axe and self-arresting a fall.
• Traversing uphill and downhill, edging, pigeonholing, plunge steps.
• Step cutting with ice axe,
ascending, traversing, and
descending.
• Correct fitting of crampons to
boots.
• Traverse, climb and descend, 10
point and front point techniques
using both ice axe and
crampons.
• Avalanche awareness,
emergency shelter.
Theory night Practising self-arrest, Snowcraft 2021
A theory night will take place on a
date yet to be confirmed. This will cover participant familiarisation, gear and
equipment.
Interested? Contact Jim Morrow snowcraft@aucktramping.org.nz
6
Trips Data Management – You can help
Over the last year our trips recording has moved from one of our Access
applications into a spreadsheet. This tracks the number of people attending
each trip to provide some core statistics for our end of year reporting.
Terry Chubb has been our trips data recorder for many years, and has led the
transition from the previously more complex recording task into its current
simplified requirement. He is keen to pass on this role now to someone who
has basic spreadsheet knowledge.
If that is you, and you have a few hours available each month, could you
please contact Terry on tripdata@aucktramping.org.nz or (09) 940 7453 to
discuss in more detail what is involved – thanks.
ATC Archives Website – check it out!
We’re delighted to announce the
Club’s archive website is now live.
Check it out at:
https://history.aucktramping.org.nz/
The site contains virtually all Annual
Reports, newsletters and
Wanderlusts produced since our
formation in 1925, plus a veritable
treasure trove of quite amazing
photographs spanning the decades.
It is of course an ongoing project,
and several hundred more photos
will be added over coming months.
We think it’s a truly stunning archive
that’ll be of interest far beyond our
Club membership.
We’d love your feedback –
particularly on anything that doesn’t
work, text/captions needing
correcting, and further info about
any of the photos you can provide.
Send to: dennis.brown@xtra.co.nz.
Enjoy! But be warned – it’s easy to get lost in there ...
7
Blast from the past
Imagine that! The road edge collapsing and the Club bus somersaulting down
a precipitous bush-covered hillside. That’s what happened in 1965.
The accident site
In Wanderlust, March 1965:
It tipped,
And it rolled.
It was wet
It was cold.
The bus was scattered,
And trampers,
Bleeding and battered.
They crawled to the road
(What a tortuous trek!)
Help had to be got
For those at the wreck.
Dry and warm
But badly shocked
We relived the moment
When the bus first rocked.
The terror of that night
And its awful fright.
But now –
The nightmare is over.
Our thanks to the helpers
The doctors, nurses and farmers
For the wonderful feeling
Their kindness gave us.
8
New members
The Club extends a hearty welcome to new members:
Alexia Scheuermann Ken Haldane
Johnny Sawers Gary Sawers
Ini Kim
We hope you enjoy many great tramps and trips with ATC.
Your ATC diary
May
May 1 Sunday Tramp – Mt Karangahake Loop
May 6-8 Kaimai track maintenance
May 8 Sunday Tramp – Hunuas
May 11 Wednesday tramp – Manukau Coast
May 11 Club night – Summer trips
May 13-15 Weekend trip – Tawarau Forest
May 13-22 Extended trip – Milford Track and Lake Adelaide
May 22 Sunday Tramp – Mt William & Te Araroa SH2 to Mercer
May 25 Wednesday tramp – Whatipu
May 29 Sunday Tramp – Mangere Volcanoes
June
June 3-6 Weekend trip – Far North
June 8 Wednesday tramp – Riverhead Forest
June 10-22 Extended trip – Paparoa Track and Mt Arthur Tableland
June 12 Sunday Tramp – Kawakawa Bay
June 15 Club night & AGM
June 17-19 Kaimai track maintenance
June 19 Sunday Tramp – North Piha to Anawhata
June 24-26 Day Walk Weekend – Motutapu Island
9
Day trips programme
To join a standard day trip
• Phone the leader if this is your first trip with the Club.
• Register your interest for a Wednesday tramp.
• Then just meet at the departure point.
Pay in cash on the day.
Masks are required when travelling on the Club bus
Sunday 1 May – Mt Karangahake Loop
Medium Start at the entrance to the Forest Park, then follow the direct route
up Mt Karangahake 544m with its great views. Continue on the Around the
Mountain track and return to the carpark via Dickey Flat and the Waitawheta
Pipeline Walk, including the spectacular old mining tunnels of the Windows
Walk. Time 6 hours.
Leader: Louise Inglis 027 568 4734
Medium / Easy Option 1
Climb more gradually to the summit of Mt Karangahake via the less direct
route. Return down the direct route to near the carpark, then take a loop
through the Windows Walk and back to the bus. Time 5 hours.
Medium / Easy Option 2
Rather than climbing to the summit, follow the County Road and Dubbo 96
track to Dickey Flat. Return via the Waitawheta Pipeline Walk, including the
spectacular old mining tunnels of the Windows Walk. Time 5 hours.
Leader: Tony Walton 027 478 5223
Transport: Club Bus
Driver: Suresh Nanu
Destination: Karangahake Gorge carpark
Departure: 8.00 am Club Garage, 31 Sandringham Rd, Kingsland
8.15 am Marewa Rd, Greenlane, behind Countdown
Cost: $25 members $30 non-members. Please bring exact cash
amount on the day.
Note: Bring a torch to explore the tunnels in the Windows Walk.
10Sunday 8 May – Hunua: Massey, Cossey, Wairoa River
Track
Medium After checking out the Hunua Falls (even better if it has been
raining!) take the Cossey Gorge Track to the junction with the Massey Track.
Turn onto that track and ascend steadily to the junction at the top of the hill
with the Wairoa Cossey Track. Turn left and follow that track until it crosses
Cosseys Dam at the head of the reservoir.
A short way down the road, past the toilets, take the Cosseys Gorge Track and
follow that down the valley to a junction. At that point turn right and climb up
to the road where you turn left and proceed down the road for a short
distance before picking up the Wairoa River Track on your right.
Steps take you down into a pine plantation alongside the Wairoa River, before
climbing uphill to skirt around a gorge section before dropping back to follow
the river through some pretty stretches of bush to reach McNicol Road. Walk
along the road until you reach the bus alongside the entrance to the
Stevensons quarry. Duration 5-6 hours.
Leader: Mark Perkins 021 599 277
Transport: Club bus
Driver: TBA
Destination: Hunua Falls carpark
Departure: 8:00 am Club garage, 31 Sandringham Rd, Kingsland
8:15 am Marewa Rd, Greenlane, behind Countdown
Cost: $15 members, $20 non-members. Please bring exact cash
amount on the day.
Wednesday 11 May – Manukau Coast: Taylors Bay to
Lynfield Cove and return
We will use a mix of coast, coastal walkways, reserves and roads taking in
spectacular views along the way. The coast can be muddy and boots
recommended – low tide 12.30pm.
Leader: Linda Webber 021 440711 linda.webber@xtra.co.nz
Transport: Private cars
Meet: 9.30 am Bluff Tce car park Taylors Bay (Hillsborough Rd, Goodall
St, right Frederick St and then left into Bluff Tce)
Register: If you plan to join us, please email or TXT the leader, including
with your phone number, so that you can be contacted in the
event that our plans change.
11Sunday 15 May – No Day Walk This Weekend
This weekend the Club has a trip to the Tawarau Forest and King Country –
see page 17. If you want to lead a cars based trip this Sunday or a shorter
weekend trip, please contact Tony 027 478 5223.
Sunday 22 May – Mt William and Te Araroa from SH2 to
Mercer
This is a two part walk, the first part over Mt William itself in open farmland
but descending into attractive bush. The second part includes part of the Te
Araroa walkway which follows the Mangatawhiri river.
Medium Ascend via the Mt William Walkway through farmland in the Bombay
Hills to Mt William (373m), providing great views in all directions. A steady
descent through bush on the other side will take us to the bus waiting for us
at McMillan Rd. Duration 2-3 hours.
A short shuttle trip along SH2 will take us to a drop-off point past the
Mangatawhiri River bridge, to which we then return, now on the Te Araroa
route that has just left the Hunuas and is on its way to the Waikato River.
This track opens up a little-seen corner of New Zealand that you'll overlook
from the stop bank – Dutch Polder-style agriculture. It follows the
Mangatawhiri River from the SH2 bridge south-west to the exit at McIntyre
Road. From there a short road walk takes us to a further section of the trail
that ends at the Mercer service centre and the waiting bus … after any local
refreshments that people require. Duration 2-3 hours.
Leader: Teresa Janssen 021 264 4434
Easy Choose whether to do just the Mt William section or the Mangatawhiri
River Track, staying with the driver for the section that you want to bypass.
Leader: TBA
Transport: Club Bus
Driver: TBA
Destination: Puketutu Rd, Bombay Hills
Departure: 8.30 am Club garage, 31 Sandringham Rd, Kingsland
8.45 am Marewa Rd, Greenlane, behind Countdown
Cost: $15 members, $20 non-members. Please bring exact cash
amount on the day.
12Wednesday 25 May – Whatipu
Finally Gibbons & Muir tracks are open!!
From the car park take Gibbons, Muir, Pararaha Valley (experience the new
and very elaborate bridge over the stream) out to coast, down the beach back
to Whatipu.
Leader: Ian Roberts 021 02675675 roberts.i.d@icloud.com
Transport: Car Pooling
Destination: Whatipu Beach carpark
Meet: 9.15 am in the Waitakere Gymnasium carpark, by Olympic Park,
Portage Road, New Lynn. We will then car pool to Whatipu
Note: No departure from Sandringham Rd today
Cost: $15 to drivers
Register: If you plan to join us, please email or TXT the leader, including
with your phone number, so that you can be contacted in the
event that our plans change.
Sunday 29 May – Mangere Volcanoes
Second in the series of four Auckland volcanoes walks, providing a great
insight into Auckland’s volcanic history.
Easy Medium From Gloucester Park (Te Hopua a Rangi volcano) we will cross
Mangere Bridge for our single climb of the day up Mangere Mountain. We will
descend to Mangere Lagoon before walking out to Puketutu Island.
Returning to the coast and the Watercare Walkway we pass the tuff ring of
Waitomokia volcano as we make our way down to the Otuataua Stonefields
to view Pukeiti, Otuataua and Maungataketake volcanoes and meet the bus.
Time 5-6 hours.
Leader: Christine Major 021 109 5750
Transport: Club Bus
Driver: TBA
Destination: Gloucester Park, 62-70 Onehunga Mall
Departure: 8.30 am Club Garage, 31 Sandringham Rd, Kingsland
Cost: $15 members $20 non-members. Please bring exact cash
amount on the day.
Note: The start point is close to Onehunga railway station. If travelling
by train, use a service that is scheduled to arrive by 8.30. On
request to the driver, you can be returned to Onehunga at the
end of the walk.
13Sunday 5 June – No Day Walk This Weekend
This weekend the Club has a trip to the Far North – see page 18. If you want
to lead a cars-based trip this Sunday or a shorter weekend trip, please contact
Tony 027 478 5223
Wednesday 8 June – Riverhead Forest
It has been many years since we were at Riverhead!!
Stuart Kendon has devised a new walk for us and will lead today.
A little over 3 hours (plus lunch) of some pleasant regenerating forest, pine
forest and forest roads. With so little rain this year we should have good
walking conditions.
Contact: Ian Roberts 021 02675675 roberts.i.d@icloud.com
Transport: Club Bus
Departure: 9.00 am Club Garage, 31 Sandringham Rd, Kingsland
Driver: Allen Small
Destination: Barlow Rd off Ararimu Valley Rd Riverhead
Note: There will be just the 1 departure today
Cost: $15 members, $20 non-members. Please bring exact cash
amount on the day.
Register: If you plan to join us, please email or TXT the leader, including
with your phone number, so that you can be contacted in the
event that our plans change.
Sunday 12 June – Kawakawa Bay
Medium with rock scrambling Starting from the village, we walk along the
coast to the end of the road at Tuturau Bay. Then over the cliff to Tawhitokino
Beach. Continue along the coast over some tricky rock scrambling (gloves
useful) past Orere Stream to Tapapakanga Regional Park.
There is then the option to tramp round the park, have a swim or relax on the
beach. After Orere Stream please take care – slippery underfoot in places.
Remember to bring your swimming togs if you wish to swim.
Leader: Martin Woodhead 021 397 734
Transport: Club Bus
Driver: TBA
Destination: Kawakawa Bay
14Departure: 8.00 am Club Garage, 31 Sandringham Rd, Kingsland
8.15 am Marewa Rd, Greenlane (behind Countdown)
Low Tide: 10.53 am – this is a low tide dependent route
Cost: $15 members $20 non-members. Please bring exact cash
amount on the day.
19 June – North Piha to Anawhata
Subject to change – check our website for any updates
Medium From the carpark we take Laird Thomson Track at the end of North
Piha. At the top of the track a five minute walk takes us to the lookout with
views over Whites and North Piha Beaches.
Back to the main track and we
climb down using ropes where
necessary to Whites Beach. At the
end of Whites Beach we find a
track taking you up and over to
Fishermans Rock.
We then start coastal rock hopping
to Keyhole Rock, a great group
photo opportunity. Carry on
around the rocks to Anawhata
Beach and climb to Anawhata
Road. Walk up Anawhata Road to
Whites Beach
Rose Track, down Rose Track until
meeting Laird Thomson Track, returning to car park.
Time: 4.5 hours. Low Tide: 7.15
Leader: Jim Morrow 021 264 6085
Transport: Club bus
Driver: TBA
Destination: Carpark on North Piha Rd
Departure: 8.00 am Club garage, 31 Sandringham Rd, Kingsland
No second pickup.
Approx. start time of walk 8.45 am
Cost: $15 members, $20 non-members. Please bring exact cash
amount on the day.
Note: Involves some scrambling.
1524-26 June – Motutapu Island for Matariki weekend
For our first Matariki weekend, the holiday is Friday.
This weekend provides something for everyone. We will travel via ferry or
water taxi to Motutapu Island on Friday morning, and first off walk to, and get
our gear transferred to, the Motutapu Outdoor Education Camp at
Administration Bay, on the north side of the island. We will return to Auckland
on Sunday afternoon.
Motutapu Island has a multitude of walking tracks, secluded beaches, Hauraki
Gulf viewpoints and historical WW2 installations that we never have time to
fully explore when we go there for a rushed day walk. So with 2 nights and 2
days on the island we will have time to take them all in at our leisure, to swim,
make use of sit on kayaks, and relax in the vicinity of The Lodge.
The Lodge provides very comfortable accommodation with a number of bunk
rooms, a large lounge, and a fully equipped kitchen.
Costs are being finalised at the moment, and once that happens we will open
for bookings and require payment.
Leader: Tony Walton 027 478 5223
Cost: TBA
Bookings: Opening soon – watch for more information and / or check our
website by early May
Bring: Overnight gear, food for Friday through Sunday, your favourite
pastimes / games / indoor and outdoor entertainment
Numbers: The Lodge maximum is 34, but we may also be limited by our
boat transport. Details to be confirmed soon.
More information about The Lodge at this website link.
Future Dates for Your Calendar
Subject to change, but keep these dates free.
August 27-28 Two Day – Whangamata based
October 29-30 Two Day – Northern Kaimai, Sapphire Spings
Holiday Park
Saturday November 12 River Crossing Training
December 17-18 Two Day, location TBA
16Multiday trips programme
To join a weekend tramp
1. Discuss trip with leader and obtain approval to register.
2. Register online via the trip description page. Any problems, contact
the Bookings Officer: Dennis Brown
6200144, 021 1955590 bookings@aucktramping.org.nz
3. Pay trip fee into Club account: 02-0100-0024675-00. Quote your
name, trip number and “weekend”.
You’re only confirmed on the trip when you’re completed all 3 steps!
Note: Masks required when travelling on the Club bus
.
West of Waitomo: Tawarau Forest / King Country – 13-
15 May
Spectacular limestone landscape in the heart of the Waitomo district. Two day
walks – Medium.
Friday head to Waitomo and accommodation – Hamilton Tomo Group Hut,
Waitomo. Bunk rooms, kitchen, etc – sleeping bag, pillows required.
Saturday drive to Appletree Road end. Tawarau Falls Loop Track to Tawarau
Falls, Bullring Route to Gorge Track and Mangaohae Stream to Were Road.
Side trip to Double Falls a possibility, swimming opportunity somewhere along
the way a probability.
An easier group can return to the bus with the driver from Tawarau Falls and
drive round to pick up the rest of the group at Were Road end.
Accommodation: Waitanguru Community Hall – fully equipped kitchen, sleep
in bus or floor of the hall (sleeping pad required).
Sunday farmland round Waitanguru, wetlands, a bit of bush, a few fossils, a
cave or two (head torch required). Note: Sunday itinerary may change.
Leader: Martin Woodhead 021 397 734
Transport: Club Bus
Driver: Simon Rainger
Transport Cost: $65 members, $81 non-members
Accommodation Cost: $30
Add accommodation cost to transport cost when paying
Departure: Friday 7.00 pm, Club Garage, 31 Sandringham Road
NO DINNER BREAK EN ROUTE
17Milford Track and Lake Adelaide – 13-22 May
Medium Fit Trip full. See our website for details.
Top of the North – 3-6 June (Queen’s Birthday)
Enjoy beach walking, superb clifftop views and beachside camping with
swimming opportunities in the Far North for the long weekend.
Easy Saturday After dropping off the other parties, drive to Cape Reinga to
explore this interesting area at the accessible top end of the country. Then
walk (day pack only) from there through to Tapotupotu Bay (3 hours) where
you will stay for 2 nights (camping or on the bus).
Sunday Drive back to Cape
Reinga, walk south on the Te
Paki Coastal Track / Te Araroa
Walkway to Te Werahi Beach,
continue past Herangi Hill, and
then take a detour out to lunch
at the lighthouse on top of the
cliffs at Cape Maria van Diemen.
Return the same way back to
the bus at Cape Reinga, then
back to Taputaputa campsite.
Monday one of two options to Te Werahi Beach and Cape Maria van Diemen
be decided during the weekend.
Leader: Ian Roberts 021 02675675 roberts.i.d@icloud.com
Medium Saturday Drop-off on SH1 at the Pandora Track. Follow that through
to the side tracks to Kauri Bush and the Te Paki summit, with great views
along the way. Continue on down to the Pandora campsite for an afternoon
to explore the coastal cliffs and beaches, rock pools, waterfall and eastwards
towards the Waitahora Lagoon. 5 hours, plus exploring from Pandora.
Sunday Take the Te Paki Coastal Track through to the Taputaputa campsite
with spectacular clifftop views. 4-5 hours.
Monday Load your overnight gear on the bus, then continue on the Coastal
Track to Cape Reinga, Te Werahi Beach, to Herangi Hill for views out to Cape
Maria van Diemen, return the same way back to Cape Reinga to wait for the
bus.
Leader: Wendy Graham 021 841971 wends.graham4@gmail.com
18Medium Fit Saturday Drop-off 4kms along the Te Hapua Rd to start from the
eastern end of the Kohuroanaki Loop Track. Follow that over Kohuroanaki to
the Kohuroanaki Skyline Track, and continue on that, joining up with the Te
Paki Coastal Track through to Taputaputa campsite – possibly 8-9 hours BUT
carrying a day pack only, as the bus will be there with your gear when you
arrive!
Sunday Take the Te Paki Coastal
Track through to Cape Reinga, then
onto the start of the Te Araroa Trail
along Te Werahi Beach, over
Herangi Hill to the Twilight Beach
campsite (free), 6.5 hours. An
optional detour (recommended)
out to the lighthouse at Cape Maria
van Diemen – add 1.5 hours.
Monday Continue on the Coastal
Track / Te Araroa walkway down to ATC trampers in Te Paki Stream, 2016
Ninety Mile Beach, along the beach
to Te Paki Stream, then up the stream
to the carpark to wait for the bus, 4.5 hours.
Leader: Bill Mancer 027 2304850 Bill@rise.co.nz
Transport: Club Bus
Drivers: Suresh Nanu, Keith Ayton
Transport Cost: $103 members, $129 non-members
Accommodation Cost: Taputaputa Campsite $16 per person per night. Other
campsites free. Add your campsite fees to the Transport Cost
when booking. (Easy party $32, other parties $16)
Destination: Friday night, Raetea North Side campsite
Departure: Friday 7.00 pm, Club Garage, 31 Sandringham Road, Kingsland
NO DINNER BREAK EN ROUTE
Maps: Topo50 AT24 Cape Reinga
Winter Trip, Paparoa Track and Mt Arthur Tableland –
10-22 June
Trip full with a waitlist. See our website description for more details.
Contact: Christine Major christinemajor25@gmail.com.
19Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tane Conservation Park – 22-24
July
Marvellous tramping in an ancient forest of giant podocarps, scenic streams
and whistling ducks.
Easy CENTRAL WHIRINAKI HUT
Saturday an early start from Plateau Road carpark, past the impressive cave
to Central Whirinaki Hut (25 bunks, 3 std tickets/annual hut pass), 3hrs. In the
afternoon explore the pumice cave via the track up-river (2-ish hrs return) or
spend time admiring the frequently seen whio in the Whirinaki River.
Sunday head north to River Road carpark taking in Vern’s Camp, the Whirinaki
Waterfall and the impressive Te Whaiti-Nui-a-Toi Canyon en route, 5hrs.
Leader: TBA
Medium MANGAMATE HUT
Saturday an early start from Plateau Road carpark to Central Whirinaki Hut,
then heading up valley, the track branches left at Taumutu Stream and left
again up Kakaiti Stream. After a low saddle, follow Kakanui Stream before a
final climb to Mangamate Hut (9 bunks, 1 std ticket/annual hut pass), 7hrs.
Sunday follow the track / Mangamate Stream route to the Mangamate bridge
on the Whirinaki Track, then out to River Road carpark, 4hrs.
Leader: TBA
Fit UPPER WHIRINAKI HUT
Saturday from River Road carpark follow the main Whirinaki track as far as
Mangamate Stream, up Mangamate Stream to the old Mangamate Hut site,
on track to Mangamate Hut. Continue on track up Kakanui Stream, over
saddle and down Kakaiti Stream to join into Taumutu Stream and on up to
Upper Whirinaki Hut (9 bunks, 1 std ticket/annual hut pass), 8-9hrs.
Sunday retrace steps to junction of Kakaiti & Taumutu Streams, follow
Taumutu Stream through to Central Whirinaki Hut then north up Whirikaki
Track and back out to River Road carpark, 7.5hrs
Leader: TBA
Transport: Club Bus
Drivers: TBA
Transport Cost: $83 members, $103 non-members
Destination: Plateau Road carpark, 43km from Minginui via Old Te Whaiti
Rd then Main South Rd
Departure: Friday 7.00 pm, Club Garage, 31 Sandringham Road
NO DINNER BREAK EN ROUTE
Notes: Trip is limited to 7 per party. Map: NZTopo50 BG38 Wairapukao
20Trip reports
Anniversary Weekend – Medium Group
by Bill Mancer
With the onset of Auckland Anniversary weekend, it was time for another
adventure. This time it was a visit to the Tararua ranges from the western side
– more specifically entering the Tararua at Otaki Forks, climbing among the
tops and descending to the depths. Exploring trails, visiting huts and testing
ourselves in remote places.
There were three of us in our group, described in the pre-trip write-up as the
medium classic route. We were ready to explore.
Thursday night we got to the end of the road and
wandered in to the Parawai Lodge. It would have been
a much shorter walk if a slip had not closed the road.
We got to the lodge in good time.
Friday we commenced our climb up the hills. There
was only one direction we were going that day, and it
was up.
Getting to Field Hut was a bit of
a breeze. We stopped for a
break and enjoyed the company
of a wise woman who was on a
mission of her own – all the way
from base to Kime Hut and back
to base in one day, looking out
for the wildlife along the way.
Then the wise one was off. We
stayed for a while longer,
enjoying the hut which had aged well over a century,
before following in the wise one's steps.
Eventually, we made it to Kime Hut, a height gain of
1400 metres for the day (that's 1.4 km up!), well above
the bushline, and with views through to Kapiti Island.
We downed packs, had a bit of a breather, then climbed
Field Peak behind the hut, where our eyes strayed to
Mt Hector and the memorial cross placed on it. Our affection for Hector did
not extend to crossing the saddle to reach it.
21That night we shared the hut with a large group from another tramping club,
who through misadventure had added some hours to their trip. We slept well.
Saturday we headed to Maungahuka Hut. Along the way there were plenty of
ups and downs, generally following a ridgeline.
After stopping for lunch, we approached our big challenge of the day, and no,
it wasn't the ladder descent. It was the Tararua Peaks – sharp pointy rocky
things, with really steep bluffs that could not be sidled. So we hauled
ourselves up (and down), finally reaching the ladder, which we descended
with ease.
Then it was more of the same steep descents and ascents, before we reached
Maungahuka and the hut.
Waiting at the hut for us were the fit group, who had come in from a different
direction. The hut was situated next to a tarn, and had good views to the east,
as well as over the territory we had traversed.
But Huey was not impressed. Overnight the wind picked up, and the clag
rolled in.
Sunday morning we could not see the far side of the small tarn. It was 11:30
before we stopped playing cards, Huey got over the hissy fit and the winds
dropped to a level acceptable to repeat the reverse crossing of the Tararua
Peaks. It was no easier in the reverse direction.
22Being a late start, it was 5pm before we reached our Sunday destination, at
Penn Creek Hut, where there was evidence of smelly billy goats. Dinner was
forced down weary gullets, sleep was early.
Monday was our final day, which commenced with an immediate 800 metre
steep ascent, where we intersected Friday's climb. The one positive from the
climb was that the track was all downhill from there.
We stopped at Field Hut for a nice long lunch break and
continued downhill. Finding no one at Parawai Lodge,
and having time on our side, we then continued out to
the road, and so-called civilisation.
The intrepid trampers were Margaret Law, Michelle
Martin, and Bill Mancer (leader).
23A Land of Gems – 26-28 February
by Malcolm Fisher
On Saturday morning we were effortlessly whisked in Tina’s comfortable and
robust pack-and-people carrier to Cobb Dam road-end, two hours from
Motueka.
In the perfect late summer’s day, we followed Sylvester Lakes Track, steadily
climbing under the shade of red and mountain beech forest. Leaving the bush
behind, with manuka now the dominant shrub, Sylvester Hut beckoned with
the promise of recovery and lunch. Way below, the long narrow Cobb
Reservoir was a real picture, the colour of sapphire.
Leaving the hut we were soon winding around the eastern side of Lake
Sylvester, enraptured by the beauty of the scenery and the curious signs of an
abandoned scheme to top-up the current Cobb valley reservoir when water
levels were low.
The landscape was clad with a great array of alpine plants and grasses, looking
completely undisturbed. It was hard to believe that the slopes and basins
were subject to grazing up till the mid-1900s, although Margaret noticed signs
of introduced pasture grasses here and there.
We were soon beside our second
lake, Little Sylvester, which, like
its larger companion, was deep
blue in colour. Ahead, a craggy,
boulder strewn slope rose from
the lake to Iron Hill ridge, an
offshoot of Lockett Range.
Scattered amongst this wall of
iron-coloured rock were tussocks,
squat plants, and white blobs of
vegetable sheep, all adding to the
charm of the scene.
Before the climb, we rested at
one of Little Sylvester's outlets, View of the Cobb valley from Iron Hill
admiring the rockery around us,
and the lake’s water splashing through on its descent to bush-clad Diamond
valley.
The climb amongst slabs and boulders to the ridgeline, just west of a stack of
darkly coloured rock appropriately named Iron Hill, was easier than expected
and we were soon gazing in awe at the tremendous scenery and appealing
locations all around us.
24Tracing our day’s route, we could pick the outline of the road that took us
down to the dam and the start of the trip, the track winding up to the hut
from the bush, and the beautiful lakes in their individual basins. Apparently
these lakes are the leftovers of
glaciation that dominated the
scene as little as 15,000 years ago.
It was now time to traverse the
ridge, which follows the Cobb
valley in a NW direction to Mt
Benson and eventually Waingaro
Peak at the head of the Cobb. Our
original plan was to go all the way
to Mt Benson, descend a side
ridge and camp beside Ruby Lake.
But a couple of us were feeling
weary and the ridgeline’s ups and
downs looked daunting. So we Looking up Diamond Lake to head of valley
were happy to adopt Kathy’s
second option, which involved a shorter length of ridge travel before dropping
down a spur to the upper reaches of Diamond Lake for the night.
The range featured some curious
rock features, including a couple
of pure white quartz veins, two to
three meters wide, which
transected the range. We crossed
these with squinted eyes because
of the intense reflection.
Being a fairly well travelled route,
there was an obvious pathway
where the ridge narrowed, and
we enjoyed the variety of alpine
flora and, of course, great
scenery.
Our descent started off alright on Diamond Lake from our camp
a surface of tufted snowgrass and
herbfields. But lower down it became a difficult wade through tussock,
mountain flax, unyielding interlacing shrubs, and, worst of all, bayonet-sharp
speargrass. It was a relief to finally reach the steep band of bush that
surrounds most of Diamond Lake, and we were soon locating nice tent sites at
the head of the lake amidst beech trees. It was a lovely sheltered spot, but
with weka in attendance we had to be on guard!
25Overnight the weather changed, cloud rolled in, and it looked like rain was on
the cards. Nevertheless Kathy was still keen to visit Ruby Lake so after
breakfast, with only day packs, Kathy, Margaret and I set off up the gentle U-
shaped Diamond valley, while
Tina opted for an easy day at the
lake, followed by a short trip to
nearby Lake Lockett, our second
night’s destination.
Kathy’s route notes suggested it
is better to sidle on the valley’s
lower western slopes than stick
to the boggy valley floor, so we
were soon scrambling through
vegetation similar to yesterday’s
descent. But with only light packs
the task was much easier, and the
weather was on our side, with Navigating to Ruby Lake, Mt Snowdon in
surrounding tops now largely clear background
and only occasional drizzle.
After an hour we were adjacent to the very head of the valley where it saddles
with Ruby Creek, a tributary of Waingaro River. Both these catchments are
virtually flat here, so it was hard to pick the pass’ highest point. It was an
interesting sight, and I don’t think there are many passes like this bisecting a
mountain range, in this case a low section of Lockett Range.
Beyond the pass we continued our sidle, the slopes ahead now in bush with
Ruby Lake between the bush and the steep face of Mt Benson. We sidled
upwards to the highest tongue of bush, where we sheltered from the drizzle
for welcome morning tea. From there a downwards sidle took us to the edge
of this charming, less visited lake.
Mission accomplished, we climbed back to our morning tea spot and, for a
different way back, climbed the spur from this point, which took us nicely to
the top of the range
we were on
yesterday, but now
nearer Mount
Benson. It was fairly
windy on the crest
but some of the
cloud and drizzle had
moved on, so there
were views aplenty.
The low saddle on the Lockett Range
26We followed the range towards where we left it yesterday, but aimed for a
nearer spur in the hopes of an easier descent. Along the way we found a
sheltered spot for a pleasant lunch.
There were many birds-eye views of the adjoining Cobb valley and I thought
of my mum, Muriel Fisher, who joined ATC during WW2, when she toiled up
the long, sometimes boggy valley with a friend in summer heat 50 years ago.
They found it tough going, with mum declaring that this was her tramping
swansong.
Our chosen spur rewarded us with an easier descent, dropping us into the
valley a few hundred meters above Diamond Lake. Picking up our gear, we
followed a rough bush route around the lake to a popular campsite at the
outlet. From here a marked track guided us to a good campsite at Lake
Lockett, where we found Tina guarding her tent, weka scuttling nearby.
During the afternoon the wind abated and misty conditions settled around us,
giving the environs a sense of mystery. On darkness the wekas seemed more
interested in chasing each other than looking for our crumbs. They were even
taking flight as they fled this way and that through the bushes.
Surprisingly, dawn arrived with brilliant, clear weather, so after packing up we
took the opportunity, carrying little more than morning tea, to climb through
the bush and onto a flank of Lockett Range for superb farewell views.
The well-marked four-hour track
down Diamond valley,
maintained by local volunteers
managing traps spaced 100
metres apart, initially dropped
steeply towards the valley
through stunted mountain beech,
but once on the valley floor tall
red beech dominated.
At the halfway point we crossed
to the true right and, after a
gradual climb, encountered a few
kilometres of sidling steep slopes,
and negotiating small gullies. On the Lockett Range above Ruby Lake
Beyond this slower going section
the track glided us to its conclusion at an old quarry, not far from the road
end, which we reached at 3pm.
And so ended a lovely time in a superb landscape, with gems embedded in
our memories. Thank you Kathy for devising such a magic trip, Tina for great
transport, and Margaret for encouraging me to get my pack on. We were
Kathy Engelbrecht, Tina Jacques, Margaret Law and Malcolm Fisher.
27Round the Mountain Cycle Trip – March
Our group of 7 travelled to our Queenstown base on Saturday 5th March and
over the following week, cycled some 300 kms.
We cycled and explored the Queenstown “Round the Mountain” track, the Te
Anau to Manapouri “Lake to Lake” track, the “Arrowtown to Gibston Valley”
track and the recently completed “Lake Dunstan to Clyde” track.
The following notes have been kindly written by
Susan and Kathryn Nemec.
ARRIVAL Arriving in a bustling Queenstown and
going out for a meal after the eerie quietness of
Auckland was the start of the many highlights of
our trip.
DAY 1: SUNDAY 6TH MARCH A cold but stunning
morning in Queenstown and all ready to start the
cycle trip. We boarded the boat at 8:30 for our
trip across lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak for the
start of the round the mountain bike ride.
An easy ride along the edge of lake Wakatipu,
surrounded by stunning mountains and blue
water in the background.
After a couple of hours of heading towards the head of a valley we had a
couple of kms of steady uphill. We all made it – walking or cycling, or a
combination.
At the top of Von Pass the vista
opened up and we had a couple of
hours of steady descent down a
wide and spectacular valley along a
gravel road, with bone-shuddering
corrugations!!!
The shuttle collected us from near
the turnoff to Mavora Lakes, and
after a side trip to check out the
lakes and get inspired for some
camping and tramping trips, we
were taken to Te Anau.
Stayed at the Lakeview Holiday Park and walked into town for a meal. A
disorganised process for food ordering at the pub but great food and all happy
cyclists!!
28DAY 2: 7 MARCH After a fortifying breakfast at Sandfly Cafe – the best cafe in
town – we set off in the light rain to cycle the lake2lake cycle trail from Te
Anau to Manapouri.
Mist-shrouded hills accompanied us around the lake to the control gate
before we followed the Waiau river to Manapouri. Easy cycling through mossy
and drippy beech forest and
arrived in Manapouri in time
for a quick lunch and pickup at
1pm to be transported back to
Te Anau.
Relaxing afternoon.
DAY 3: 8 MARCH The rain
cleared this morning to a
beautiful Fiordland day. The
mountains that had been
shrouded in mist yesterday,
showed their full majesty.
A slow start to the morning
meant we had time to take
photos of the glassy lake with Mount Luxmore in the background, before the
shuttle picked us up to take us to Centre Hill, the start of the 47km ride to
Lumsden.
Very easy riding today along a well-formed trail connecting numerous fishing
and anglers’ tracks along the banks of the Oreti River.
Night spent in a restored pub complete with garish period carpet and pink
striped wallpaper.
DAY 4: 9 MARCH Low cloud surrounded Lumsden as we set off, cycling
through Southland farmland. The trail was an old rail trail from Lumsden to
Kingston so easy riding but somewhat boring landscape. Some parts were very
juddering and one section had lots of farm gates to negotiate.
Interesting history about the various train stops and early settler history along
the way.
Stopped for a picnic at Athol and coffee at Garston, by which time the cloud
had broken and it was sunny and hot.
The final section from Garston to Kingston was stunning. The landscape
became more dramatic as we dropped down to Lake Wakatipu and historic
Kingston, where we completed the “Around the Mountains” track and were
picked up.
Spectacular drive back into Queenstown along the edge of Lake Wakatipu.
29DAY 5: 10 MARCH Started the day walking around the historic Chinese
miners’ village in Arrowtown. Some of us remembered the TV drama a few
years ago based on Eleanor Catton’s novel The Luminaries, so the shocking
way those early Chinese goldminers were treated
in this area was very present.
Picturesque ride along the Arrow River to where it
joins the Kawerau River and the home of bungy
jumps. Spectacular scenery with just a hint of
autumn colours in the trees. It felt like cycling
through the Italian Alps with vineyards clinging to
the slopes of the hills beckoning us to come
tasting.
Ironically, we had lunch in a tavern, but then
sampled the local wines at Waitiri Creek Vineyard.
Shuttle back to Queenstown.
DAY 6: 11 MARCH The shuttle dropped us off at
Smiths Way, for the Lake Dunstan cycle ride.
A pretty ride to Cromwell and enjoyed the historic precinct there. The ride
became more dramatic as we left Cromwell and entered the gorge. Incredible
cantilevered parts of the cycle trail built out from the cliffs and over the river.
Fortunately we had a great tail wind and ended up at Clyde by 4pm and
enjoyed a well-deserved beer at the pub!! Shuttle back to Queenstown to
complete this year’s
cycle trip.
Participants: David
Gifford (leader),
Terry Chubb, Judy
Haslett, Mark Lewis,
Russell Allen, Susan
Nemec, Kathryn
Nemec.
30Easy-Medium Kaimai trip – March 18-20
by Louise Inglis
Our easy-medium group, of 8 members, included 3 women who were doing
their first ever overnight tramp with tents. Having completed a few great
walks using hut accommodation they were ready to experience the tenting
challenge.
An enchanting Friday night was
spent camping under a near-full
moon on the grass flats above
Waiorongomai car park. It was
more enchanting when the
noisy locals departed.
Sat morning dawned bright and
clear, revealing that one of the
newbies had forgotten to sleep
on her bedroll, and two others
weren’t sure how to use the gas
cooker. Louise enjoyed the
opportunity to see tramping
through beginner eyes … and told tales of her first ever tramp, where she was
so exhausted she went straight to sleep without even eating dinner.
Keith, our bus driver, dropped off the fit and easy groups at the start of the
Tuahu Track on Wairakau Road, on the western side of the Kaimai Ranges, just
a little further south from Waiorongomai Valley.
Both groups started off together, soon demonstrating to the newbies about
stream crossing with boots on.
Louise, not the strongest
navigator, added a few
minor scenic detours to
the shortcut track.
3 hours later, our group
arrived at Te Rereatukahia
Hut, a quaint 12-bedded
hut including a great
outdoor kitchen sink &
tap, a handsome supply of
firewood, a sturdy
outdoor picnic table, and
an array of pots.
31Keith, who had dropped off the medium group then walked up solo, arrived
soon after us.
Several young family groups with delightful children and even a dog were also
appreciating the accommodation. Big thanks to the Kaimai Ridgeway Trust for
their significant contribution to
the hut improvements.
6 of our group, including all the
newbies, pitched tents around
the hut. All went for an
afternoon walk to Wahine Rock.
Louise, not content merely to
view the magnificent rock from
afar, had a bonus exploration
part way up the rock.
Back at the hut, enjoying the
deck and the late afternoon sun
from the long deck and grassy
slopes, Michelle very ably
demonstrated various yoga poses. Louise, always an ardent believer in
stretching, joined in, with significantly less flexibility than her tutor.
All in bed before dark, heavy rain pelted down through the night, giving those
in their tents a quieter sleep than those in the metal-roofed hut, and the
assurance that their tents were in fact waterproof.
Sunday morning provided sufficient time
to pack up before more rain and wind
set in. Pack covers flew off, nimbly
retrieved by Keith’s quick reflexes.
Jenny’s poncho just about gave her a
parasailing experience as she
endeavored to descend the Kaimai
ladder.
Lunch at Motutapere Hut included
discussions about the deceptive placing
of the Sentinel Rock name on modern
topographical maps. Keith’s older map
had the title located accurately.
Previous hut book entries revealed that
Corine, Eng & Tong had all been at the
hut a few weeks earlier.
32A well-taped short cut track, known as Cullers Track, took us down to an easy
wide track through pine forest.
We felt confident that the medium group was behind us, so Louise and Jenny
seized the opportunity for an excursion to Killarney Lake for Louise’s requisite
swim, while Bill explored the eastern end of the lakes and found an old private
hut.
The fit group, having completed their trip several hours earlier, were relaxing
in the Te Aroha pub. There was simply no better way to wait for the medium
group than in the local Te Aroha private spa pool!
Alas, the medium group
were struggling with terrain
and knee injuries, one of
which was later confirmed
as a mild fracture.
With resilience and
determination, they bravely
hobbled all the way out, just
as a few members walked in
to meet them.
Thanks to Keith for driving,
including a few additional
shuttles between Wairakau
Road and Te Aroha.
Thanks to the positive attitude of all the newbies, you did really well!
Thanks to the rest of the group for supporting our newbies and giving them a
positive first time tenting tramping experience on tracks significantly more
challenging than those on the Great Walks.
We were: Louise Inglis (leader), Pradnya Gadkari, Jenny Andrew, Jan Munroe,
Michelle Buckingham, Michael Hare, Bill Mancer, Keith Ayton
33Tinny Trampers – Rakiura 19-27 March (Private Trip)
by Christine Major
Tramping the Fraser Peaks and Tin Range in southern Rakiura Stewart Island is
always memorable – sometimes recalled as an ordeal of biblical proportions
but for the lucky it will stand as one of life’s most rewarding experiences. Such
it was for us.
Our good fortune? Warm, clear weather for days 1-5 making travel so much
easier and blessing us with blue heavens for the sublime landscapes.
True we had to deal with overheating in our armour of clothing protecting us
from the stabs and scratches of bush bashing and to make do with trickles of
water between black stagnant pools to service most of our camps.
Balancing out our journey we did have some “nice rubbish days” (to quote
Antal) for a lay day and a bleak, viewless traverse of Blaikies and Table Hills.
In addition we were indebted to the May 2021 pioneer group who gifted us
their gpx files and much advice. Their gpx trail saved much time and many
energy sapping mistakes even with our abundance of navigational talent –
Margaret with her decades of
experience including previous
Tin Range trips on compass
“instrument navigation”,
sharp-eyed Michelle and Antal
on “visual flight rules” and
techies Tony and I flashing our
devices.
The bird life was a joy –
bellbirds dominated the forest
which was also home to robins,
tomtits, fantails, kakariki,
warblers and tui.
34We heard kiwi at night but Antal was the only one to spot a rapidly departing
rear-end at Rakeahua Hut.
Other animals seen included
sealions playing or lolling in the
Cook Arm estuary, and on the
Surveyors Track there was a large
dark skink sunbathing.
Unbelievably, sandflies were
little nuisance.
For the botanists there were
endemic alpine daisy mats of the
Tin Range and the forest boasted
an autumnal proliferation of
colourful shiny berries.
DAY 1 The coastlines of northern Rakiura Stewart Island were familiar sights
for us all before the helicopter swept us far south to Pegasus Bay. Here we
landed at low tide in Cook Arm bathed in golden light with only a short
distance to squelch across until we clambered up onto dry land for a first stiff
foray through dense vegetation.
Setting up camp on the spacious
flat recommended by our 2021
predecessors we located a well-
worn ground trail leading us
towards the imposing granite
towers of the Fraser Peaks and
with relative ease we were
lunching high on Magog.
An astonishing vista of rocky
bumps of all shapes and sizes
stretched from coast to coast
around us and we made our way
leisurely back to our sunny but breezy camp photographing this unique world.
35An 8am start meant getting ready in the dark at our western longitude but
was necessary to make full use of the low tide in Cook Arm.
Swiftly covering a pre-scouted route clear of entangling vegetation we were
soon sploozing along the estuary following the gpx track largely sticking (!) to
the north side but making a couple of crossings to the
south. Lots of knee deep wading but one crossing had
me en pointe with water lapping my ribs.
We short-cut across the base of a couple of
peninsulas with bumsliding and teamwork required
for our cliff descents.
The going through the bush from Cook Arm north to
the stream on which we planned to camp proved
good going especially as we were advised to avoid
high ground to the west. After some upping and
downing we homed in on the 2021 camp site at 1pm
to spend the afternoon enjoying the birdsong.
DAY 3 The highlight of this day in the bush was watching a couple of young
sealions joyfully swimming together in a stream.
Later in the morning based on
Margaret’s prior experience we
deviated from the 2021 route to
walk north onto high land and
then travel east towards the
camp site.
This provided straightforward
travel until we encountered
challenging terrain rejoining the
gpx trail and we then had an
ugly 2-3 hours following the
Longuet Creek feeder ditch
including spending an hour
trying to figure out where the
2021 team had camped in such an inhospitable place before we battled 200
metres downstream and pitched our tents there. 9.00am – 5.00pm.
DAY 4 We paddled across Pegasus Creek just above the weir at Belltopper
Falls thanks to the summer’s drought before Margaret led us along an old
route up creek up to the junction with Longuet Creek.
After some “in your face” bush work we traversed north of point 86 and then
a stream valley to gain the Surveyors Track just before 2pm. After high fives
we opted to drop our packs and skip down to North Arm.
36We were surprised to see a house nearing completion just above the landing
point but there are pockets of private land this far south.
It was sweaty toil climbing now
on a track and open to the
blazing sun but a luxurious flat
spacious campsite awaited us
near the dam on McArthurs
Creek. 8.50am – 5pm.
DAY 5 We retraced about 300m
from the dam of yesterday’s
route to climb a marked clear
trail onto the Tin Range
ridgeline. Entranced by the
panorama we scampered south
packless for closer views of Port
Pegasus before re-donning our
packs for our northward trek.
Wondrous majestic granite
knobs and ridges rose above the
forested expanse stretching
from coast to coast as we sidled
tors or mounted domes on our
route.
At first we were
discombobulated by the trail
becoming vague and having to
struggle through dense scrub
thick with leatherwood having
thought these trials were over
but at point 559 we saw another trail leading up onto the ridgeline (about
which we have our theories) and thenceforth travel was easier following
ground trails, bleached sticks and mini menhirs.
Following the trail, we descended to the east of Mt Allen having a fine battle
with the leatherwood when we lost the track – the 2021 gpx came again to
the rescue.
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