The Transformation Issue - The newest science behind boosting performance, attacking aging and staying vital until the day you die or possibly ...

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The Transformation Issue - The newest science behind boosting performance, attacking aging and staying vital until the day you die or possibly ...
LU X U R Y W I T H O U T C O M P R O M I S E

                     The Transformation Issue
                   The newest science behind boosting performance, attacking aging
                        and staying vital until the day you die (or possibly don’t)

                                                  AUGUST 2020

Aug_Cover.indd 1                                                                      7/2/20 11:15 AM
The Transformation Issue - The newest science behind boosting performance, attacking aging and staying vital until the day you die or possibly ...
Breakfast:
                               Tea With Honey

                                 65 calories

    70    NOVEMBER 2018

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The Transformation Issue - The newest science behind boosting performance, attacking aging and staying vital until the day you die or possibly ...
RUNNING
                                 ON
                                EMPTY
                                  Periodically depriving yourself of food
                                         may add years to your life.
                               But could you commit to a 200-calorie-a-day
                                      liquid diet? Mark Ellwood did.
                                   PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY HUANG   STYLING BY SOPHIE LENG

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The Transformation Issue - The newest science behind boosting performance, attacking aging and staying vital until the day you die or possibly ...
I
                                                                      overdrive. With my metabolism working harder           it’s an investment in the well-being of seventy-
                                                                      to produce energy, I experience a new level of         something you.
                                                                      strength and mental clarity. I am Superman with-           There’s no hardship here, though. The clinic
                                                                      out the blue tights. In fact, the only challenge for   doesn’t resemble a traditional sanatorium but
                                                                      me is my sleep. Usually, I slumber deeply and          rather a five-star hotel. Scattered among several
                                                                      soundly anywhere, so it’s strange to find myself       buildings on a steep hill, the rooms are decorated
                                                                      so fitful, with bouts of deep rest punctuated by       in muted tones and filled with tasteful, vaguely
                                                                      an unfamiliar alertness. Otherwise, I nod sympa-       modernist furniture. One of the front-of-house
                                                                      thetically as I try not to gloat when folks mourn-     staff is an alum of the Ritz Carlton in New York
                                                                      fully complain in the “feeding salon,” the lounge-     and proudly wears the lapel pin of Les Clefs
                                                                      like area where our non-meals are devoured.            d’Or, the elite cabal of concierges. There’s a hair
                                                                           It’s inside the salon that I first meet my fel-   salon but no conventional luxury hotel-style
                                                                      low fasters on day one, at what passes for a wel-      spa. Instead, the clinic offers two main medi-
                                                                      come party at Buchinger Wilhelmi, on the shores        cal complexes, where the doctors and nurses on
               I should be miserable. I’d been cautioned: Watch       of Lake Constance in Germany, just across the          staff perform their examinations, plus numerous
               out for day three. That’s when the demons begin        border from Switzerland. My fellow fasters are         treatment rooms discreetly tucked into various
               to rage. I’m on a medically supervised 10-day fast     a motley bunch, drawn from across the world.           buildings, where guests can book everything from
               that promises to help me shed some weight while        I’m surprised the room is equally split between        osteopathy and shiatsu massage to outré rituals
               also futureproofing that newly slimmed-down            men and women. There are several first-timers          like Chi Nei Tsang, a Chinese abdominal massage,
               body against aging. Worth the odd demon or a           like me: a Saudi couple, for instance, well-pad-       to pass the time between non-meals.
               pang or two, then.                                     ded fiftysomethings who plan to stay for three             And, yes, the food. Other than at the start and
                   Indeed, I’m a bit hungry—but that’s not sur-       weeks. Other newbies include a pair of friends,        end of your stay, when you’ll receive delicious,
               prising, given that I’ve consumed little more          fit, middle-aged financiers who usually take an        low-calorie vegetarian meals to help ease your
               than tea, juice and soup over the past 48 hours.       adventure vacation together each year, leaving         digestive system into and out of hibernation,
               But I had been anticipating far worse, as several      their wives at home. Most of the room, though,         there’s little to eat. (Don’t confuse fasting-in-
               friends, all veterans of the Buchinger Wilhelmi        consists of starvation pros, folks who’ve followed     duced ketosis with a ketogenic low-carb, high-
               process I am undertaking, had warned me. The           the Buchinger Wilhelmi method several times            fat diet.) Breakfast is herbal tea and a tiny saucer
               real challenges in forgoing food wouldn’t be           before. Typical is the French sculptor who’s back      of honey; keep it for the day, the nurse advises,
               simple hunger, they said. “Fasting isn’t the hard      for a seventh stay. He became a devotee when his       and eat it sparingly when you need some energy.
               part,” said one. “It’s the emotional side. I usually   first stint allowed him to per-                                               Lunch is fresh-squeezed
               spend the third day curled in a ball in my room,       manently shed the 40 pounds                                                   juice, cut with more herbal
               weeping. Everything you repress just comes out,        he’d gained after a car acci-                                                 tea to reduce its calories.
               all at once.” A second moaned about the physical       dent. Tall and gaunt, he looks        After what passes for                   Dinner is the aforemen-
               side effects on day three for her: throbbing head-
               aches, a furry tongue and dry skin, all because the
                                                                      to be in his late 60s or older;
                                                                      he’s come again, he explains,
                                                                                                             lunch, you’ll spend                    tioned broth. Such scraps—
                                                                                                                                                    or drips—of food leave my
               toxins her body was purging began to crest, she        as an anti-aging effort. More
                                                                      than the chance to shed
                                                                                                             an hour or more in                     digestive system effectively
               said, wide-eyed. The consensus was that I’d feel,                                                                                    fallow, though there are reg-
               generally, dreadful—not just hungry but also sad,      pounds, it’s this elusive prom-         bed, swaddled like                    ular enemas from the nurse
               aching and exhausted, likely confined to my bed,       ise that underpins the work at                                                just to make sure. She also
               wakefully toggling between napping and fretting.       Buchinger Wilhelmi.                     a baby with a hot                     checks my vitals each morn-
               Yet another confided that it was day three when
               the risk of cheating peaked. She’d heard that folks
                                                                           For this is no conventional
                                                                      fat farm. Forget face-lifts
                                                                                                             water bottle pressed                   ing, reminds me to drink at
                                                                                                                                                    least six liters of water a day
               usually skulk out the clinic’s back gate and into      and fitness classes—it’s bouts             to your liver.                     (to stay hydrated and prevent
               the nearby town to scarf down a furtive frank-         of fasting that Buchinger                                                     gout) and comes to my room
               furter or two to offset the gnawing pains.             Wilhelmi claims will offer                                                    every afternoon to wrap my
                   Instead, I feel fine.                              a slimmed-down path to eternal youth, or               liver, one of the quirks of the Buchinger Wilhelmi
                   More than fine. Remarkably, I feel absolutely      something close to it, at least. Fasting, the staff    process: After what passes for lunch, you’ll spend
               dandy. I’ve no physical problems whatsoever; in        preaches, will better safeguard your body against      an hour or more in bed, swaddled like a baby with
               fact, I’m swimming 50 laps in the pool here at the     the forces of age. The focus here, though, is not      a hot water bottle pressed to your liver. Per the
               Buchinger Wilhelmi spa every afternoon, and the        only extending your life span but also improving       clinic’s theories, such cosseting helps boost the
               only reason my eyes are watering is the trouble-       the quality of whatever life you have, or what’s       liver’s ketone production process.
               some pollen. I miss chewing, for sure, and I’m not     now known as your health span. The clinic’s                The woman who helped formalize many such
               partial to some of the broth recipes: The mere         practice aims to address a conundrum: How do           theories is Françoise Wilhelmi de Toledo, M.D.
               mention of turnip evokes Dickensian deprivation,       we ensure our brains and our bodies remain in          Trained as a conventional physician, she visited
               though the watery tomato is bright-flavored and        peak condition for our entire lives, bringing both     the clinic as a guest in her 20s—and never left.
               delicious. But I haven’t cheated, despite deliber-     quantity and quality of life in sync? Slash our        After marrying into the family, she became the
               ately wandering into town yesterday morning to         daily energy source, Buchinger Wilhelmi pos-           medical director. Toledo is now the clinic’s head
               tempt myself with the smells of fresh-cooked sau-      its, and the body’s metabolic switch is triggered.     of medical research and lives in a sleek glass
               sages. I took a deep breath—delicious for sure, but    Deprived of easy fuel, our body’s metabolism           box of a house nearby; one of her two sons, Leo
               I was happy to eat with my eyes.                       instead turns to ketones, compounds produced           Wilhelmi, handsome with a mane of dark hair,
                   Either I’m too two-dimensional to be trou-         from fats by our liver in a state known as ketosis,    handles day-to-day operations. At 66, she has
               bled by deep thoughts or I’m one of the lucky          achieved by fasting at least 10 to 12 hours. There’s   a gamine energy and a feline intelligence, and
               ones, sailing straight from eating three meals         more afoot, too: During ketosis, the body starts to    could easily pass for a decade younger. Doubtless,
               daily to the Zen state of semi-starvation without      repair and reboot, helping bat away looming bad        she’d attribute her youthful glow to her decades-
               detouring down a physical and emotional rabbit         health. Per the clinic’s owners, eating 200 to 300     long adherence to fasting, both daily (in 16-hour
               hole. I’ve arrived, instead, at 200-calorie nirvana,   daily calories for several days, any time from your    windows) and twice yearly, when she follows the
               where the body, now short on fuel, is forced into      20s to your 60s, isn’t just good for your waistline;   clinic’s regimen for 10 days or more at a stretch.

    72    AUGUST 2020

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The Transformation Issue - The newest science behind boosting performance, attacking aging and staying vital until the day you die or possibly ...
Lunch:
                               Freshly Squeezed Juice

                                     50 calories

G2G_Aug_Feat_Fasting.indd 73                            7/6/20 3:28 PM
Running Hed

                               Dinner:
                                Broth

                               36 calories

    74   NOVEMBER 2018

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Running on Empty

                 She invites me over for tea—fresh herbs, thyme              allow the body to shift into that sought-after state             state with drugs or radiation because cancer cells
                 picked from her garden—so she can explain the               of ketosis.                                                      cannot use ketones [as fuel], so if the glucose lev-
                 work here in person. Like the clinic’s staff and                Peter Bowes is a longtime BBC journalist who                 els in the body are relatively low, it makes them
                 entire operation, the Swiss-born Toledo slides              periodically fasts in his role as host of the pod-               more vulnerable,” he explains.
                 fluently between French, English and German as              cast Live Long and Master Aging. During fast-                         Andrew Jenkinson, a London bariatric sur-
                 she talks; she has an evangelist’s charisma. Think          ing, he says, the body undergoes autophagy, or                   geon and author of Why We Eat (Too Much), does
                 of fasting as metabolic training, she urges, teach-         spring-cleaning mode, meaning it recycles dam-                   not recommend long-term fasting but is a propo-
                 ing the body how to use different energy sources,           aged or old cell machinery. Studies suggest that                 nent of the 16:8 approach. “Ketogenesis is proba-
                 much as a hybrid auto switches between elec-                this process—which derives from Greek words                      bly the best way to lose weight, but unfortunately,
                 tricity and gas for efficiency. Hunger isn’t to be          meaning “self” and “to eat”—can even result in                   it’s difficult to sustain. Whatever diet you do for
                 avoided but rather deployed, a forgotten reflex             new synapses forming in the brain. “When your                    weight loss needs to be your new life,” says Jen-
                 that we need to relearn. Toledo is pleased that             immune system is challenged like this, it throws                 kinson, who recommends a low-carb diet. “Fast-
                 the clientele here includes so many men as well             out the cells it’s not using, that are maybe a lit-              ing for a sustained period of time will improve the
                 as women—that 50:50 ratio is a rarity for conven-           tle weather-worn,” Bowes says, “and builds a new                 inflammatory response over the short term, and
                 tional spas. “Fasting is not easy, as we take away          immune system, re-growing white blood cells.”                    it will make you think faster and more clearly—it
                 everything you like at the beginning, so it’s more              A prolonged state of autophagy, then, could                  will give you a real buzz.”
                 of a challenge. Men like that,” she says.                   be thought of as a real-life counterpart to the                       Experts differ on how long it takes for au­toph­
                     Indeed, it was a man who founded the clinic,            serum that transformed scrawny Steve Rogers                      agy to kick in from intermittent fasting—from
                 a hundred years ago. His reasons were per-                  into super-soldier Captain America. Indeed, the                  right away to 12 weeks—but for optimal results,
                 sonal: Otto Buchinger, a physician, was wheel-              US government has explored how to use inter-                     Toledo recommends practicing it five days a
                 chair-bound from severe rheumatoid arthritis,               mittent fasting to improve the performance of                    week. Jenkinson urges caution, too: Individual
                 at least until he fasted for almost three weeks on          elite commandos, according to Mark Mattson, a                    metabolisms and default weights vary. Veer from
                 the suggestion of another doctor. Buchinger fol-            world-renowned expert in fasting and adjunct                     the program and you’ll likely rebound to where
                 lowed the most extreme protocols, ingesting only            professor of neuroscience at Johns Hopkins Uni-                  you started, he says. Though Toledo has led
                 water. As a result, he later claimed, he was able           versity School of Medicine. Mattson says officials               extensive in situ studies to determine the safety
                 to walk again. Buchinger turned his belief in the           from NASA and the air force contacted him to                     of the protocols used at the clinic, there are no
                 healing power of calorie restriction into his life’s        discuss how to use his research in just this way.                records on the long-term efficacy of stays. The
                 work, setting up this clinic, which his descen-             “It’s evolution,” he says. “If you’re food-deprived,             high ratio of repeat visitors could suggest that
                 dants, including his great-grandson Leo, still run.         you need to be more alert and motivated to find                  it is, indeed, hard to maintain such weight loss.
                 But it is only in the last two decades or so that           food—that’s why you often feel sleepy after a                    Then again, it could be evidence of how effective
                 conventional science has turned its attention               meal.” He suggested using intermittent fasting                   her evangelical zeal proves in recruiting converts.
                 to the potentials of calorie restriction, and men           as a training tool, spending two days per week,                       I’m impressed, if not completely converted,
                 have increasingly embraced fasting as the final             for example, drinking only water. Mattson has                    by day 10. At my final morning check-in with
                 fitness tool—a way to put their insides through             focused his studies on such intermittent fasts and               the nurse, I’ve lost close to 12 pounds and two
                 as punishing a training regimen as they follow at           has a hunch it’s more effective than the Buchinger               inches from my waistline. More than anything,
                 the gym. Broadly speaking, there are two com-               Wilhelmi method of one long annual fast, though                  though, the stay here has changed the way I eat. I
                 mon approaches that aim to leverage reduced                 he recognizes the benefits of calorie-deprivation                couldn’t even finish the first meal of solids, post-
                 food intake for health and weight benefits. The             of any kind. His research includes clinical stud-                fast, served up with a candle and certificate in
                 first, periodic fasting, is the approach followed by        ies of individuals at risk of cognitive impairment               celebration. I’m just not as hungry as often any-
                 the clinic; cut calories for an extended period             from Alzheimer’s and similar diseases, in which                  more, and I’ve adopted that 16:8 system most
                 every year or so, for example. The second is                he found that those on a diet that included fast-                days. Three months later, even during lockdown
                 intermittent fasting, which deprives the body of            ing showed memory and learning improvements                      with limited exercise, I’ve remained slim. Would
                 nutrition in a given pattern each day or week: 16           within two months. Mattson says intermittent                     I come again? Absolutely. But perhaps the bigger
                 consecutive hours in every 24 is popular (often             fasting is also a promising component in cancer                  question is: Why should I need to? Check back
                 called 16:8). Proponents claim both systems                 treatment. “You should hit them in the fasting                   with me in a year.

                 EXTREME                         SHA, Spain
                                                 The most unusual offering at
                                                                                       Bad Ragaz, Switzerland
                                                                                       Not a hospital but not exactly a
                                                                                                                               VivaMayr, Austria
                                                                                                                               To describe VivaMayr as
                                                                                                                                                                      We Care Spa, California
                                                                                                                                                                      In a world of impersonal medical

                 SPAS                            SHA has to be the personalized
                                                 “cognitive empowerment”
                                                                                       spa, the medical center at Bad
                                                                                       Ragaz has become a destination
                                                                                                                               regimented would be a gross
                                                                                                                               understatement. The prototype
                                                                                                                                                                      centers and wellness clinics, We
                                                                                                                                                                      Care offers an intimate 20-room
                 Buchinger Wilhelmi may be       program. The brain-training           for everything from sleep               for all European medical resorts,      facility. The liquid diet and
                 the granddaddy of hard-         course employs EEG technology,        disorders and weight loss to            VivaMayr is squarely focused on        detoxification rituals are popular
                 core vacation clinics, but      neuro-feedback video games            in-depth exams. The “Business           gut rehabilitation and alkalizing      among Hollywood’s A-list, who
                 it doesn’t have a monopoly      and transcranial direct-current       Health Check-Up” leaves no stone        powders that purportedly regulate      come to purge in peace and make
                 on punishing protocols.         stimulation to fire up the sleepier   unturned, with on-site testing          the acid/base balance in our           full use of educational classes
                 Here, Ahmed Zambarakji          areas of your gray matter to          for liver, kidney, lung and thyroid     bodies, therefore bolstering           (cooking, yoga, transitioning back
                 finds a few others worth        boost professional performance.       function, blood sugar levels and        immunity. You can distract             to solids) and “healing installations”
                 checking out.                   The Alicante-based clinic also        blood lipids. The setting, a hot        yourself from hunger pangs with        with a shamanic vibe, such as
                                                 offers a curious but effective        spring near a cluster of world-         a host of detoxifying rituals that     the Floating Bed, where you can
                                                 blend of Eastern and Western          class hotels, makes the ordeal          range from daily oil pulling—an        meditate privately atop a gently
                                                 therapies—acupuncture, genetic        of a medical exam considerably          Indian folk remedy that involves       rocking outdoor bed, as well as
                                                 testing, Watsu aquatic bodywork—      more appealing than a visit to a        swishing oil around in your mouth      fire ceremonies. There is a strong
                                                 and a gourmet Japanese-               traditional clinic. And if you need a   in the hope of eliminating toxins—to   spiritual bent to the program at We
                                                 Mediterranean macrobiotic diet        little extra persuasion, know that      colonic irrigation at its high-tech    Care but one that doesn’t seem
                                                 that’s designed to strengthen the     you can always let off some steam       spa. The inevitable weight loss, we    entirely out of place in Desert Hot
                                                 immune system.                        in St. Mortiz afterward.                are assured, is merely a bonus.        Springs, Calif.

                                                                                                                                                                                               R O B B R E P O R T. C O M   75

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