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STOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
A research report by the Shop! Global Network
Sponsored by
Platinum sponsor
Prepared by Gold sponsors
STOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Storedits Letter from Todd
Our goal at Shop! Environments We hope you find this comprehensive
Association is to provide retailers and report helpful as you collaborate and
brands with fresh ideas to meet their build alliances with retailers in this
customers’ untapped needs by using competitive market.
Shop! member products and services.
“Collaboration & Alliances” is one of If you have questions about this or
six vital retail trends we’ve identified other Shop! research reports, feel
as necessary to thrive in today’s free to reach out to me (tdittman@
challenging retail environment. shopassociation.org) or Madeline
Baumgartner, Director of Education
This research project underscores & Research, at mbaumgartner@
how strong alliances among our Shop! shopassociation.org.
Global Network members can result in
A special thank you to the creation of an essential tool for the
our sponsors WestRock, Thank you!
industry at large. Storedits (stor-ditz)
Essentra and Hera Lighting is an analytical qualitative survey of
for their ongoing support retail space conducted by the Shop!
of the Storedits program. Global Network. For several years, this
We also thank the staff study has been identifying how POP Todd Dittman,
at POPAI UK & Ireland displays are being deployed in different Executive Director Shop!
for managing the project, categories and retail channels across
providing analysis and the world. This year, it was expanded
writing the report, as well throughout North America and covers
as other members of the the explosive market of skin care and
make-up/cosmetics.
Shop! Global Network who
conducted the field work. The total global cosmetic products
Without their contributions, market, which includes hair care, oral
this project would not have and fragrances, was valued at USD For more information about this topic,
532.4 billion in 2017. This burgeoning please visit Shop!
been possible.
market is expected to reach a market Website: shopassociation.org
value of USD 805.6 billion by 2023. Email: welcome@shopassociation.org
The study results reveal contributions or call Madeline Baumgartner,
from global Shop! members to Shop! Director of Education &
the growth of this market through Research on 312-863-2917.
innovative displays and marketing.
2 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.org
STOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Contents
Introduction 4
Executive Summary 5
The Global Cosmetics and Skin Care Market 6
Industry Trends 9
Display Trends 11
Market Data 13
In-store Research 17
Display Types and Distribution 18
Display Characteristics 23
Conclusion 30
Recommendations 31
Sources 31
Glossary of Terms 32
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SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Introduction
The cosmetics and skin care market
is one in which physical stores play
a huge part. When buying these
products, we like to see, touch,
smell and test – something which
we cannot do online. Despite
global economic uncertainty, this
category is consistently resilient,
with a continuing focus on our looks
combining with new and emerging
trends to keep the market buoyant.
Increased disposable income in traditionally
poorer countries, an aging population, the
growing trend for men’s grooming products
and increased innovation offering new ways to
try and buy, all mean that brands and retailers
can find ever more audiences to reach.
Although dominated by the big top ten
players, new entrants are constantly seeking
to join this highly competitive market,
particularly those with a focus on anti-aging
products.
In-store promotional materials have a clear
task and focus.
Attracting shoppers to the product
NE
W Introducing new products
Our research
Increasing product and category Storedits (stor-ditz) is an analytical The research set out to identify the following
sales qualitative survey of retail space conducted aspects of POP display use in different
by the Shop! Global Network. It has been retail environments.
used for several years to identify how • Location in-store of POP display
Creating impulse purchase and
POP display is being employed in different
cross-sell opportunities • Type of POP used
categories and retail channels across the
world. It is not, however, a full audit of this • Use of digital screens
Enhancing co-branding space and display materials therein; rather, it
• Types of messaging and information
targets specific areas to identify trends and
being communicated
understand how displays and promotional
Offering shoppers a more engaging messaging are being used by brands and • Color
brand experience retailers to appeal to and influence the • Single or multiple brand use
shopper in-store.
POPAI UK & Ireland also undertook desktop
Our research explored the current and This research into the cosmetics and skin research and consulted industry experts
changing global trends, seeking to care industry follows last year’s consumer to understand the current position of the
understand the role of POP across the electronics report, but has been expanded global cosmetics and skin care market and
world and to discover, when it comes to to cover 13 countries in Asia, Europe and to investigate existing and predicted trends
cosmetics and skin care: what does good North America. that may impact these categories.
really look like?
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SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Executive Summary
Physical stores are a key aspect of the
global cosmetics and skin care categories,
with shopper demand for ‘try before you
buy’ placing them ahead of online retailers.
Global sales in both categories are forecast
to grow, with this growth driven by a number
of positive consumer trends as well as the
population growth in emerging markets.
Our research explored the current and
changing global trends, seeking to
understand the role of POP across the
world. We covered 13 countries across
Europe, Asia and North America.
The sector has been traditionally resilient,
proving less susceptible to economic
downturns than other fast-moving
consumer goods categories. A continuing
influx of new entrants to the market is
keeping it buoyant and fresh, introducing
new and innovative products. However, the
market remains dominated by the top ten
leading companies.
While communicating product information
is ever more important for new and
innovative products, pressure remains for
displays to hold as much stock as possible.
This often results in challenging design
decisions to determine how best to use
space on display equipment.
The use, type and placement of cosmetics
and skin care displays was fairly consistent
across all the countries surveyed,
generally with just two or three exceptions
in each case.
Cosmetics and skin care POP displays were
widely used across all the retail channels
surveyed, with a varied range of display
types seen.
POP display plays a vital role in helping
shoppers navigate the numerous and varied
products across categories. While a large
amount of display equipment was seen in
most retailers, the vast majority of it was Tester facilities play a key role in displays, along displays, often at the expense of clear and
concentrated in the main cosmetics and with lighting, which has a dual role of attracting bold branding.
skin care trading areas, with relatively few shoppers to displays and
displays seen elsewhere in stores. highlighting products. Digital technology has not yet been widely
adopted. While it has the potential to address
Permanent display equipment was by far the Retailers continue to influence the size, design some of the product information issues, the
most prevalent, proving three times more and placement of cosmetics and skin care technical challenges of centrally controlling
popular than temporary display. content is restricting its use.
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The Global Breakdown of the cosmetic market worldwide 2011-2017, by geographic zone
Cosmetics and Asia-Pacific North America Western Europe Latin America Eastern Europe Africa & Middle East
Skin Care Market
100
80
Market share (%)
60
Skin care, make-up, hair care, fragrances,
sun care... it seems that looking good
40
and protecting our skin is something of an
international inclination.
20
This is reflected in the figures. The global
cosmetic products market looks set to 0
2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
continue to thrive – valued at $532.4bn in 2017,
Geographic region
it is expected to reach $805.6bn by 2023.
Source: Statista – Cosmetics Industry Worldwide – 2016
A predicted 51% Annual global growth across the whole
increase for the global category since 2004 has varied, from a
cosmetics and skin low of 1% in 2009 to a high of 5% in 2007.
$805.6bn
Growth for 2017 is estimated at 5%, with a
$532.4bn
care market by 2023
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023
4% average for the whole period.
The Asia-Pacific region holds the highest
Worldwide economic events have traditionally market share, having gradually reinforced
affected categories within the wider cosmetics that position since 2011, as shown in the
and beauty market, with periods of sales graph above.
growth and decline at country levels.
Skin care is the global top priority, taking
However, skin care, color cosmetics, eye the highest market share within all beauty
make-up, lipstick and foundation have been categories, followed by hair care and color
resilient, buoyed by the continuing and growing cosmetics. The graph below details the
use of products by women and, increasingly, relative shares of the global beauty market
by men across the world. by category.
Global beauty market value by category 2016
Sales value in US$ billion
Skin care 116.5
Hair care 72.5
Color cosmetics 61.5
Men’s grooming 48.5
Fragrances 47
Oral care 42.5
Bath & shower 39
Deodorants 20.5
Source:
Baby &Statista
child – Cosmetics Industry Worldwide – 2016
16
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This hierarchy looks set to continue. The
Global skin care market size 2012-2024 global skin care market has experienced
steady growth since 2012, which is forecast
to continue to 2024. The color cosmetics
180.3
171.7 market has also experienced a sustained,
163.5
155.8 albeit slower, sales increase. These graphs
Market size (US$ billion)
148.3
141.3 (left) show these increases.
134.5
128.1
116.2 122.0
110.7
99.6 103.0 Mass beauty holds sway in most markets,
with the premium category far more popular
in North America and equally important in
Western Europe and Australia, as shown in
the graph below.
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 2024
Source: Statista – Cosmetics Industry Worldwide – 2016
Sales growth of premium and mass
Global make-up market size 2012-2024 beauty products 2016-2021
Sales growth (US$ million)
84.5
81.6
Market size (US$ billion)
76.2 78.8
68.7 71.1 73.6 8,600
64.1 66.4
57.4 60.7 Asia-
55.0 56.9
Pacific 14,900
1,000
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 2024 Latin
America 9,600
Source: Statista – Cosmetics Industry Worldwide – 2016
2,800
Western
Europe 2,800
Mass beauty
Premium beauty
1,000
Middle East
& Africa 2,700
5,700
North
America 2,700
400
Eastern
Europe 1,600
400
Australasia
400
Source: Statista – Cosmetics Industry Worldwide – 2016
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Renowned Market Leaders
The cosmetics market is not as fickle as Top ten global beauty companies
we might think, with the top ten leading
companies being market leaders for decades. 31.2
Turnover (US$ billion)
These, along with smaller companies across
the globe, are thriving on the diversity of 24.8
products and demographics at their disposal.
13.7 12.4
The top ten cosmetics companies all turn
9.4 8.9
over in excess of $5bn and are a mixture of 6.9 6.7 6.1 5.6
specialist beauty companies and those with
wider portfolios, including food, household
and luxury products.
Source: beautypackaging.com – based on 2017 data (sales include only cosmetics, fragrance and personal care items)
One of world’s largest cosmetics companies
and top beauty brands, L’Oréal was founded Beiersdorf was founded in 1882 and has a wide
in 1909. Its product range includes color range of personal care products, including skin
cosmetics, skin care, hair care, sun care and Procter and Gamble (P&G) holds care and body care brands. Some of its most high-
fragrances. As well as its key brands L’Oréal a significant position in the skin profile brands include NIVEA, Eucerin, Labello,
Paris, Garnier and Maybelline New York, the care industry with many well- Florena and La Prairie. The company operates
company also sells luxury brands including known brands, including Ivory, across different markets including the mass
Lancôme, Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Olay, Safeguard and Secret, market, dermocosmetics and premium cosmetics.
Laurent Beauté. offering a wide range of beauty
and personal care products.
LVMH is one of the world’s leading luxury products
group, and its cosmetics and perfume business
grew by 12% in 2017. Driving the make-up
A big player in fragrance and segment was growth in brands such as Rouge
professional hair care as well Dior, Dior Addict and Guerlain.
Unilever is one of the largest consumer
as color cosmetics, Coty owns
goods companies in the world. It has also
brands such as Adidas, Clairol,
carved a place for itself in the cosmetics
CoverGirl, David Beckham, Katy
industry, with popular brands such as Axe/
Perry, Max Factor, Rimmel London,
Lynx, Dove, Lifebuoy, Pond’s, Closeup,
Sally Hansen and Wella. It also
TRESemmé, Suave, Sunsilk and Vaseline.
owns the luxury brands Marc Perhaps best known as a pharmaceutical company
In 2017, Unilever announced the creation of
Jacobs, Calvin Klein, Chloé, Gucci, with several baby product ranges, Johnson &
Unilever Cosmetics International to extend
Hugo Boss and philosophy. Johnson (J&J) has also become known globally for its
its global portfolio of prestige beauty and
fragrance brands. beauty brands, including Neutrogena and Aveeno.
Founded in 1872 in Ginza,
Tokyo, Shiseido was the first
Western-style pharmacy in Based in South Korea, Amorepacific focuses primarily
Japan, producing personal care on developing natural beauty products and has
Estée Lauder was founded in the products including skin care, benefitted from the recent K-beauty trend – the
1940s and is one of the world’s leading fragrance, hair care, sun care, rise of Korean make-up in the West. It launched
manufacturers and marketers of quality body care and make-up. Its most its cosmetics brand Amorepacific in 2002 and is
skin care, make-up, fragrance and hair care popular brands include Shiseido, growing rapidly, with increasing demand for its most
products. Its diverse portfolio of over 25 Za, Senka, Anessa, Sea Breeze, popular brands, which include Sulwhasoo, Laneige,
brands is sold in 150 countries. NARS, and Bare Escentuals. Mamonde, Innisfree, Etude House and Annick Goutal.
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Industry Trends
Forever Young This has been supported by aggressive Enhanced Technology
An aging world population is a key factor in the marketing strategies and promotional Technology is pervading almost every
growth of the cosmetics market, with the global campaigns aimed at men which, together area of retail, and the cosmetics industry
population of those aged 60 and over estimated with the influence of social media and male is no different. High-tech beauty devices
to reach 2.1bn by 2050. grooming magazines, keeps them much are becoming much more prevalent,
more informed about the latest trends in the offering consumers clever new ways to
Life expectancy for women is expected to cosmetics industry then they have been in integrate their personal care routines into
increase by three-and-a-half years to 86.3, the past. their homes using technology.
and for men by over five years, to 83.6. With
an almost universal desire amongst men and Combination Skin
women to retain their youthful looks, there is Multifunctional cosmetics, such as products Developments include:
expected to be a corresponding growth in sales which combine both skin care properties and
of anti-aging products to reduce wrinkles and traditional cosmetics color choices, are set to • The Neutrogena Skin360, a
age spots and to balance uneven skin tone. be game changers and trendsetters over the sensor-based skin-scanning
There is also likely to be increased innovation in coming years. Increasing demand for these device with an accompanying
new cosmetics products. within the premium cosmetics category is app to monitor skin over a period
driven by their capacity to give consumers of time.
The Modern Man maximum value for the most expensive make- • Lancôme’s Le Teint Particulier
It seems that men across the globe are up brands. foundation matcher, which uses
becoming more image-conscious. Millennial men a digital scanner and artificial
in particular are adopting grooming regimes and These products are being developed by intelligence (AI) to identify a
buying into categories traditionally associated companies which are wise to the growing need shopper’s exact skin tone and find
with women, such as make-up, facial cleansers, for convenience in the busy schedules of the a perfect match.
moisturisers and exfoliation products. modern consumer.
• Virtual ‘try on’ apps like Sephora’s
Virtual Artist, enabling shoppers
to try thousands of lipstick and
eye shadow shades using their
smartphones. The app also hosts
digital make-up tutorials to help
match shades to skin color.
• Smart skin care tools such as
the HiMirror from New Kinpo
Group. This scans shoppers’
faces for wrinkles, spots, pores
and lines, and then provides
personalised tips and product
recommendations.
• Make-up printers which can scan
skin for blemishes and apply tiny
amounts of make-up to hide them.
P&G’s Opté scanner uses a built-
in camera to take 200 frames per
second, while a microprocessor
analyses the data to differentiate
between light and dark areas.
A microprinter then applies
foundation to the skin.
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STOREDITS SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS Smart Beauty The ubiquitous smartphone offers consumers access to ever easier online shopping and social media platforms, and e-commerce will play an increasingly important role in the category, particularly in skin care. As such, companies will continue to focus on online marketing, as well as developing brand- specific Facebook sites and Twitter accounts. The Middle East and Africa Cosmetics sales growth is traditionally slow in these regions, with many populations having little, or no, disposable income. However, some countries in these areas are forecast to grow with the highest annual compound growth rate in the cosmetics market. Israel, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates (UAE) are expected to lead this growth, especially in the nail, hair and hair removal categories. An increase in the number of women in the workplace in countries such as the UAE, as well as a growth in tourism, are also driving cosmetics sales. The wealthier Middle Eastern countries have already been penetrated by luxury brands such as Dior, Clarins, Clinique, Lancôme and Estée Lauder. These are now permeating into developing countries such as Nigeria and Kenya, where disposable income is increasing, along with the inclination to spend more on appearance. The Rise of Vegan Cosmetics Although cruelty-free products have been around for a while, vegan cosmetics products are now also entering the marketplace, not just from ethical retailers like Lush but also from other brands such as Kat Von D, Urban Decay, Barry M and Black Opal. Fresh Thinking The cosmetics market is notoriously competitive. However, an increasing number of companies are seeking to enter the category, particularly those focusing on anti- aging products. The cost of gaining a foothold in the market is high. New product research and development, manufacturing costs and limited raw materials are all barriers to entry. Additionally, the cost of advertising and promoting new brands and products in an already established market can be restrictive. 10 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.org
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SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Display Trends Forms of advertising most likely to influence the purchase of a new
beauty product
POP display undoubtedly has a key role in 25%
influencing shoppers’ purchase decisions,
with 17% of shoppers in the United States 22% 22%
citing in-store displays as the most influential
media in encouraging them to buy a new 17%
beauty product.
This is nothing new. Indeed, the role of display
has always been fundamental to the success
of cosmetics and skin care products. Given
9%
the intensely personal nature of the relationship
between the individual consumer and the
5%
products, the opportunity to see, engage with,
and compare products, has given the sector a Television Magazines POP display Online Coupons Other
unique place in the world of in-store display.
As a result, there has been continuing and
high-level global investment in displays for
ranges and newly launched or promoted Source: Videology (Amobee) – Statista 2018
products, as well as displays incorporating
technology – either through the complexity
of manufacturing techniques or, for example,
Although many of the main brands are global, Taking Stock
there is clear significant local influence, both Competition for space in-store has never
the early adoption of digital screens to
nationally and regionally, with regard to the been fiercer. A growing number of brands
assist product choice, usage tips and
displays produced for national markets. and continual new product development are
lifestyle suggestions.
swelling ranges, and this can mean some
One of the big surprises in our findings was
tough decisions in terms of stockholding
the lack of uniformity amongst the main
versus product information.
brands. While the type of display was the
same, the design and final execution was The pressure for displays to accommodate as
different in the vast majority of cases. many different SKUs as possible is intense. But
this leaves limited space on displays for brand,
Testing Testing product and promotional messages. The
Shoppers often visit a store as they can try irony here is that the wave of new innovative
and test products, something they cannot products, such as multifunctional items,
do online. It makes sense, therefore, that arguably need more detailed explanations.
incorporating a testing facility, including
mirrors, on cosmetics fixtures is the current Creative designers will work to accommodate
single most important design consideration. both, although there has been little recent
While some markets, such as Western innovation to more efficiently host the sheer
Europe, have already fully embraced the number and range of products required.
tester concept, most other markets are not far
behind, with this requirement being seen in However, there has been a subtle change in
ever more design briefs. some imagery. Pictures of people portraying
brand values are being replaced by close-
ups of make-up application, such as lips,
highlighting the product’s attributes instead.
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A Light Touch Digital Signage
Photographers, models and artists have Digital screens are in short supply in the
long used lighting to highlight or minimise cosmetics sector. It remains difficult to
certain features. However, some lighting can update content and troubleshoot equipment
be unflattering, and it is key that cosmetics remotely, which is the main barrier to adoption,
counters use lighting styles that show off with unreliable in-store Wi-Fi often also
products in the most complimentary way. causing issues.
White lights will highlight a product once Ownership is also unclear, with brands
applied and help shoppers to see its true tones and retailers unsure who should own the
and textures. technology to provide the screens. All of this
adds up to a likelihood that digital screens
As such, illumination continues to play an will not be in wider use until these challenges
important role in cosmetics wall and gondola are overcome.
fixtures, where it has become the accepted
norm. Indeed, any unit in a run of lit displays
that does not have illumination is likely to be
at a disadvantage. Displays without lighting
around the exterior of the fixture are less
likely to attract shoppers, while those with no
illumination in the internal part of the unit will
struggle to compete with adjacent displays
The Role of the Retailer
with lighting.
Retailers in most markets still control carcass
To achieve true standout in-store, displays dimensions for wall and gondola displays
need to be illuminating to three times the traditionally used by legacy brands. However,
brightness of their surroundings to draw many are now more open to newer brands,
attention to a product. However, some especially those with innovative products,
retailers are limiting the amount of illumination utilising secondary placement opportunities for
permitted on displays, as they consider their displays with smaller footprints such as free-
environmental credentials and energy bills. standing display units (FSDUs).
Low-energy options such as LED lighting are
likely to benefit from this trend, as such bulbs In fact, brands with new and trendsetting
can use up to 80% less energy. products will often gain display space at
the expense of more established brands,
irrespective of the promotional support
on offer.
These displays can also more effectively
convey a brand’s identity, away from the more
formulaic banks of wall and gondola units.
Men and Ethnic Groups
While the male cosmetics market and markets
in the Middle East and Africa are emerging as
growth areas, this has yet to be reflected in
display design. Limited space makes it difficult
to accommodate a wider range of marketing
messages without impacting on stockholding,
so above-the-line marketing is rarely translated
onto in-store display.
Many countries in these regions still rely on the
graphics and display-based communications
supplied by a brand’s central distribution, and
there is little adaptation for local markets.
The exceptions are brands which have been
created to cater specifically for women of color,
such as IMAN Cosmetics and Beauty Bakerie,
whose graphics and imagery reflect their
target audiences.
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Market Data Dutch sales value and forecast growth
2017 sales
EUR million
Category Sales for Countries Surveyed 2022 forecast sales
505 550 539 580 EUR million
In keeping with global trends, the skin care
category has the highest sales value in all the 173 180
countries in which our research was conducted.
Irrespective of country, strong sales growth is Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
forecast across the skin care, cosmetics and
deodorant categories between now and 2022. Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
French sales value and forecast growth
Canadian sales value and forecast growth 3,800
3,396
2,750
2017 sales
2,200 2,199 2017 sales EUR million
CAD million 2022 forecast sales
1,750 1,600 EUR million
2022 forecast sales
1,456
CAD million
645 690
367 440
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
German sales value and forecast growth
Czech Republic sales value and forecast growth 4,800
4,048 2017 sales
5,900 EUR million
2017 sales
CZK million 2022 forecast sales
4,800 4,816 EUR million
2022 forecast sales 2,300
3,960 CZK million 1,982
883 950
1,578 1,600
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Irish sales value and forecast growth
Danish sales value and forecast growth
177
2017 sales
150 EUR million
1,900
2017 sales 142
DKK million 2022 forecast sales
1,636 117
1,400 2022 forecast sales EUR million
1,216 DKK million
57
47
420 460
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018 Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
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Japanese sales value and forecast growth Spanish sales value and forecast growth
2017 sales 1,600
JPY billion 1,485 2017 sales
2,100
1,832 EUR million
2022 forecast sales
953 1,080 2022 forecast sales
JPY billion
EUR million
321 350
850
747
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
50 54
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018 UK sales value and forecast growth
Russian sales value and forecast growth 3,350 3,400
2017 sales
2,808
GBP million
175,000 2,399 2022 forecast sales
GBP million
133,239
2017 sales 820
104,000 713
RUB million
85,610 2022 forecast sales
RUB million
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
33,000
27,295
US sales value and forecast growth
23,500
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
22,000
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
South African sales value and forecast growth 18,368
16,794
13,000 2017 sales
ZAR million
2017 sales
2022 forecast sales USD million
ZAR million
8,309 2022 forecast sales
8,300 8,100 USD million
6,116
5,585
5,500
4,524
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
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Category Sales for Other Key and
Developing Territories Chinese sales value and forecast growth
Skin care is also the best performer in other 296,232
main and emerging markets across the globe.
Interestingly, only in the UAE do cosmetics come
close to challenging skin care as the leading
category. While continued growth is expected in all
of these countries, sales in developing markets such
Brazil, India and Nigeria are forecast to grow at a 187,413
significantly higher rate than most other markets.
2017 sales
Australian sales value and forecast growth CNY million
3,450 2022 forecast sales
71,700
CNY million
2017 sales
2,400 2,437 AUD million 34,443
2022 forecast sales
1,810 747 962
AUD million
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
418 450 Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Indian sales value and forecast growth
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
180,000
155,000 2017 sales
Brazilian sales value and forecast growth INR million
2017 sales 113,925 2022 forecast sales
BRL million INR million
17,500
2022 forecast sales
BRL million
68,817 67,000
13,000 13,000
11,533
9,772 33,827
8,315
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Indonesian sales value and forecast growth
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
31,900
2017 sales
IDR billion
19,982 2022 forecast sales
IDR billion
13,000
8,600
6,498
3,433
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
15 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Italian sales value and forecast growth Saudi Arabian sales value and forecast growth
2,260
2,013
1,800 2017 sales
2,860
2017 sales 2,700 SAR million
1,538 2,473
EUR million 2022 forecast sales
2,161
2022 forecast sales SAR million
EUR million
930
440 760
402
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
Mexican sales value and forecast growth
UAE sales value and forecast growth
44,800 2017 sales
41,700 MXN million
33,428 2022 forecast sales 1,300 1,310 2017 sales
29,464 MXN million AED million
1,060 1,107
2022 forecast sales
18,300 AED million
13,087
490
414
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018 Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Nigerian sales value and forecast growth Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
2017 sales
212 NGN billion
2022 forecast sales
94 NGN billion
92
40 52
22
Cosmetics Skin care Deodorants
Source: Passport category country reports – May 2018
16 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
In-store Research Types of store visited The following display
characteristics were recorded
as part of the research.
Research Methodology 15% • Temporary or permanent
The field research, data processing and analysis • Single or multi branding
was carried out by POPAI UK & Ireland and other 5% • Type of messaging
members of the Shop! Global Network, and • Brand imagery
covered 177 stores in 13 countries. 47%
• Promotion
The teams visited 152 different retail chains • Product information
and independent stores, covering drug stores/ 26%
• Main colors used
pharmacies, department stores, grocery stores
and specialist cosmetic stores.
• Text color
7% • Text direction
The researchers took images of a cross section • Illumination
of POP displays and store fixtures found in each
store visited. They recorded the display type, its Drug store/pharmacy – chain • Mirror incorporation
location and some characteristics and attributes Drug store/pharmacy – independent • Digital screen – interactive
of the display, e.g. illumination or video screens. Department store Grocery store • Digital screen – non-
Specialist cosmetic store interactive
Further details about the display were then
captured through analysis of the images taken,
• Testers
Source: POPAI
such as font color and branding. • Movement
• Sound
The research is a snapshot of a significant selection
of the POP display seen in the stores visited, but is
• Aroma
Number of stores visited in each country
not an audit of the all the displays present in each • Augmented reality
and number of images captured
retailer. As such, the analytical results are indicative • Virtual reality (none found)
and not finite.
Canada 5 74 • Product displayed for
purchase or display used to
The research took place from January to March 2019.
Czech just highlight product
20 167
Republic • Product demonstration by
Displays with the following product store or brand representative
Denmark 18 269 categories were included.
Cosmetics Skin care
France 15 200 The researchers surveyed all areas
• Lipsticks • Skin cleansers (toners, of the stores visited and recorded a
Stores visited
• Mascaras creams) cross section of all the types of POP
Germany 13 82
Images captured
• Eye shadows • Face washes (masks, display found and their locations.
exfoliator creams/gels) They found 4,311 items of cosmetic
Ireland 17 244 • Foundations and skin care display – a significant
• Body lotions
• Powders (moisturisers, creams) amount considering not all POP
Japan 6 103 display in each store was recorded.
• Eyeliners • Self-tanning products
• Blushers (creams, gels) These were either separate items
Netherlands 15 164
• Bronzers • Hand creams fulfilling a display purpose in their
• Primers and • Skin plumpers own right, or component display
Russia 13 222
fixing sprays equipment used in combination to
• Eye creams/gels create more complex installations or
South Africa 7 125
• Accessories • Exfoliation creams/gels as part of shop-in-shop displays.
(brushes,
tweezers, • Accessories (cotton
Spain 20 250 wool, cleansing wipes) One of the unique aspects of this
brush research is the vast number of images
cleaners) • Men’s care (in relation taken, with each image capturing one
United
15 194 to the above) or more display types. Many of the
Kingdom
• Deodorants and body images cover multiple displays, so the
United States
13 167 sprays (roll-ons, sprays) actual coverage of display items is
of America
over 3,000.
Source: POPAI
To gain access to these images, please contact your local Shop! Global Network or POPAI office.
17 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Display types and distribution
240 240
230 230
220 220
The research explored the types of display, how more display equipment in the cosmetics part of a chain also employed a large number
210
much was used and how it was distributed. It and skin care categories than did other retail and type of displays, more than twice as 210
200
was found that department stores had marginally channels. Pharmacy/drug stores that were much as their independent counterparts. 200
190 190
180 180
Types
170
and numbers of different display types found 170
160 160
150 150
140 140
Department store
130 130
120
Grocery store 120
110 Pharmacy/drug store – chain 110
100 100
Pharmacy/drug store – independent
90 90
Specialist store
80 80
70 70
60 60
50 50
40 40
30 30
20 20
10 10
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240 240
230 230
220 220
210 Department store 210
200 Grocery store 200
190 190
Pharmacy/drug store – chain
180 180
170
Pharmacy/drug store – independent 170
160 Specialist store 160
150 150
140 140
130 130
120 120
110 110
100 100
90 90
80 80
70 70
60 60
50 50
40 40
30 30
20 20
10 10
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Source: POPAI
18 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
This is perhaps surprising, given the similarity Number of top ten display types used
of the retail format. by retail channel
Specialist stores also used a large amount of 520
POP, but grocers used relatively little, possibly 500
due to self-imposed restrictions on display use. Department store
480 Grocery store
Specialist cosmetics stores had, on average, a
third fewer displays than chain pharmacy/drug 460 Pharmacy/drug store – chain
stores. However, they used a wider variety of 440 Pharmacy/drug store – independent
display types.
420
Specialist store
The most commonly seen POP types were a
complete mix of three-dimensional display and 400
two-dimensional signage. 380
Simple, inexpensive posters were the most 360
frequently witnessed display types. However,
340
more complex and costly cosmetics testing
stations were the second most common, either 320
as stand-alone displays or incorporated into
larger display installations. 300
280
The popularity of both tester stations
and smaller tester boxes emphasises the 260
importance of enabling shoppers to try
cosmetics in-store, indeed much more so than 240
in most other fast-moving consumer goods
220
(FMCG) categories.
200
180
160
140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
Poster
Fixture Header – Branded
Display Card
Free-Standing Display Unit
Main Fixture – Retailer
Main Fixture – Branded
Wall Unit – Retailer
Tester Display Box
Wall Unit – Branded
Tester Bar/Station
The next most regularly seen POP type was
more two-dimensional signage in the form
of branded headers on store fixtures and
display cards located on different forms of Source: POPAI
display units.
The other top ten most common display types Digital screens were relatively rare, seen
were all three-dimensional equipment: FSDUs, in only a total 3.3% of stores. Likewise,
branded and retailer generic main fixtures and interactive POP was seen in only a very small
wall-based displays, and shelf units. number of stores.
19 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Department stores tended to use more of the
most popular displays, compared with other Average number of top ten display types used by retail channel
channels for most display types. 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
However, there were some exceptions. FSDUs, Poster
display cards and wall units were more popular in
chain pharmacy/drug stores, along with branded
Fixture Header – Branded
equipment generally. Meanwhile, generic retail
units were favored by independent pharmacy/
drug retailers. Main Fixture – Retailer
Unsurprisingly, grocery stores led the way with Display Card
generic main fixtures.
The average number of displays per store varied Free-Standing Display Unit
very little by country, with most deviating by only
one or two from the overall average of 25. Tester Bar/Station
Only three countries were significantly different:
Main Fixture – Branded
Germany and the Czech Republic had noticeably Department store
less display, while South Africa had much more.
Wall Unit – Retailer Grocery store
The lower number in Czech stores was driven by Pharmacy/drug store – chain
under-indexing in department stores, where they Wall Unit – Branded Pharmacy/drug store – independent
had only a third as many displays as the average,
Specialist store
and chain pharmacy/drug stores, where they had
Tester Display Box
a quarter fewer displays. Meanwhile, Germany
had significantly less display in all channels. Source: POPAI
South Africa’s figure was due to much higher
POP placement in chain pharmacy/drug stores.
Average number of displays per store
Canada 28
Czech
15
Republic
Denmark 29
France 25
Germany 11
Ireland 28
23
AVERAGE
Japan
Netherlands 25
Russia 29
South Africa 34
Spain 25
United
24
Kingdom
United States
27
of America
Source: POPAI
20 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Display Locations
Number of POP displays found The researchers found POP display in the
outside of the main cosmetics and following locations across all the stores
skin care trading areas visited.
• Outside the store
4 • Store window
External
6 • Store entrance
• In the cosmetics and skin care section
Window
• End cap/gondola end
Category Display Approach
16 • End cap/gondola side
Women were clearly the target audience for
• Wall display use in the categories surveyed, with
Store entrance* • As part of a shop-in-shop display over half of the displays recorded being for
• Outside of the main cosmetics and skin women’s cosmetics and over a quarter for
care section women’s skin care.
• At the checkout/till area
However, the favorite location for POP display Display use by category
19 was emphatically the main cosmetics and skin
care trading areas, with the vast majority of the 0.1% 4.0%
Checkout/till area*
4,311 display items found there. 1.6% 8.7%
29 Several shop-in-shop displays were found
0.1%
away from the main trading area, but very few
Out of
window or external displays were seen.
category
Within the main trading area, the most popular
place for display was in, on or immediately 28.2% 57.3%
adjacent to the cosmetics and skin care
* Where these are not the main cosmetics and skin care end caps/gondolas. The next most popular
trading area
location was in or on wall displays, with 9%
Source: POPAI positioned on end caps/gondola ends, 6% in
shop-in-shops, and 3% at checkouts.
Women’s cosmetics
Women’s skin care
Men’s cosmetics
Men’s skin care
Women’s & men’s cosmetics
Unisex skin care
Both cosmetics & skin care
Source: POPAI
21 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
The cosmetics and skin care categories both
took a very different approach to display by
POP type.
Cosmetics tended to use branded displays
There was a significant variation in the ratio
such as on main fixtures, wall units and header
of cosmetics displays compared with those
boards, while the equivalent retailer-owned
for skin care by country.
displays were preferred for skin care.
In ten of the 13 countries surveyed,
Tester equipment also varied. Cosmetics were
The ratio of cosmetics displays to skin care cosmetics displays were predominant.
much more likely to offer a tester bar or station,
was fairly consistent across the retail channels. However, this varied from 81% in Canada
with skin care adopting a tester display box.
In fact, only independent pharmacy/drug stores to 55% in Spain. In Germany, France and
differed, placing a much greater emphasis on Digital screens were also much more popular the Czech Republic, there was a higher
skin care than the other retailers. within the cosmetics category. percentage of skin care POP.
Display category use by type (%) Display category use by country (%)
0 50 100
Canada 81 19
Tester Bar/Station
Czech
Fixture Header – Branded 37 63
Republic
Digital Video Screen – Non-Interactive Denmark 55 45
Poster
France 42 58
Shelf Equipment – Shelf Unit
Germany 40 60
Wall Unit – Branded
Ireland 61 39
Shelf Strip
Main Fixture – Branded Japan 70 30
End Cap/Gondola End Display Netherlands 68 32
Tester Display Box
Russia 82 18
Free-Standing Display Unit
South Africa 56 44
Wobbler
Display Card Spain 55 45
Fixture Header – Retailer United
Kingdom 60 40
Main Fixture – Retailer United States
76 24
of America
Wall Unit – Retailer
Cosmetics displays Skin care displays
Use by cosmetics Use by skin care
Source: POPAI Source: POPAI
22 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Display characteristics Permanent and temporary displays
by category
Permanent Versus Temporary
Three-quarters of the displays seen %
were permanent, with an even higher 18
percentage found in cosmetic displays. %
30
Department stores and specialist
cosmetics and skin care retailers favored
permanent displays slightly more than the
other retail channels.
There was little variation by country. The
only exceptions were Russia and the USA,
with 84% and 85% permanent display
%
respectively, and Japan, which had 70
significantly less, with just 55%.
%
82
Skin care Permanent display
Temporary display
Cosmetics
Source: POPAI
Permanent and temporary displays
Permanent and temporary displays by retail channel by country
Canada 102 36
Department store 1144 261
Czech
Republic
207 87
Grocery store 154 51
Denmark 413 101
Pharmacy/drug store
559 251 Permanent display
– chain
Temporary display France 279 99
Pharmacy/drug store
84 40
– independent
Germany 109 38
Specialist store 1374 393
Ireland 386 90
Source: POPAI
Japan 88 71
Netherlands 282 92
Russia 313 59
South Africa 168 69
Spain 399 106
United
267 96
Kingdom
United States
302 52
of America
Permanent display Temporary display
Source: POPAI
23 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Highlighting Brands
Interestingly, 16% of the POP displays did not
feature any actual products for sale. Two-thirds
of these were some form of tester or make-up
application units, with the rest used to highlight
products or for brand or product messaging.
The majority of the displays without product were
in the women’s cosmetics category with some in
women’s skin care. Almost half of these displays
were found in specialist retailers and 45% in
department stores.
There was a significant variation in the use of
display with no product by country, varying from
an average of nine per store in Russia to just one
in Germany.
Average number of displays per store
with no product for sale
Canada 5
Czech
2
Republic
Denmark 5
France 3
Germany 1
Ireland 5
Japan 3
Netherlands 3
Russia 9
South Africa 3
Spain 3
United
5
Kingdom
United States
3
of America
Source: POPAI
24 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Digital Displays
Digital displays were scarce. Only 142
examples were seen, of which just 13
were interactive. Department stores
were by far the biggest users of digital
display, with an average of 2.6 screens
per store compared with just 0.8 per
store in specialist retailers and fewer than
0.3 in the other retail channels surveyed.
Ten of the interactive displays were in
department stores and three in
specialist retailers.
Use by country varied quite significantly.
More than two screens per store were
seen in Japan and one or more in Ireland,
Russia, Spain and the UK. No digital
screens were recorded in South Africa.
The average number of digital screens
per store across all countries was 0.8.
Digital screens were mainly used to
communicate product information,
seen on 80% of screens. Just over half
displayed some form of brand imagery,
while 46% performed both functions.
Only four screens were seen to display
promotional messages.
Average number of digital screens per store
Canada 0.2
Czech
0.4
Republic
Denmark 0.7
France 0.4
Germany 0.1
Ireland 1.4
Japan 2.1
Netherlands 0.5
Russia 1.4
South Africa 0
Spain 1.1
United
1.5
Kingdom
United States
0.3
of America
Source: POPAI
25 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Let There Be Light?
Despite its key role, lighting was seen on
just 31% of the displays.
Backlit illumination was the most popular,
recorded in 1,328 displays. Of these, 52
used flashing lights, 134 shelf illumination,
75 were display with lightboxes and 28
employed Hollywood-style lighting.
Department stores were by far the most
prolific users of display with lighting,
with an average of 20.9 displays per
store. Specialist retailers ranked second,
with 6.8 per store, followed by chain
pharmacy/drug stores with 6.3 and
grocery with 2.2 per store. Independent
pharmacy/drug stores had an average of
only 0.7 illuminated displays per store.
The use of illumination varied by country.
Russian and Danish stores had an
average of 11.7 and 11.4 illuminated
displays respectively, while Japan and
Germany only had 3.7 and 3.2 per store.
The most popular display types with
illumination were backlit posters,
branded fixture headers and tester bars
and stations.
Average number of illuminated displays per store
Canada 8.4
Czech
4.3
Republic
Denmark 11.4
France 7.3
Germany 3.2
Ireland 9.3
Japan 3.7 Displays with illumination incorporated
Netherlands 8.7
Backlit Posters 248
Russia 11.7
Branded Fixture Headers 230
South Africa 9.7
Tester Bars & Stations 208
Spain 8.6
Branded Main Fixture 181
United
8.7 Branded Wall Units 154
Kingdom
United States
8.5 Retailer Wall Units
of America 102
Source: POPAI Source: POPAI
26 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.org
11.7STOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Mirror Mirror
In keeping with shoppers’ desire to try
products, 451 displays incorporated a mirror
and testing facilities. Not surprisingly, the
majority of these were for cosmetics.
Mirror use by retail channel was in line with
the average number of displays seen in each
channel, with the majority in specialist retailers
and department stores.
There was little variation in the use of mirrors
by country, with the exception of Russia
which had nearly twice the average number of
displays with mirrors and the Czech Republic,
which had just a quarter of the average.
Sensory Touch
Very few displays were found to incorporate
sensory elements.
Where it was present, smell was the most
popular, noticed in 18 displays. Five had
movement but none had sound. All those with
smell were for skin care products, as was
one with movement; the rest of those with
movement were for cosmetics.
Most of the 23 displays with a sensory element
were found in specialist retailers, three were
in department stores and just one in a chain
pharmacy/drug store. Sensory displays were
found in the Czech Republic, Denmark,
France, the Netherlands, Russia, Spain, the UK
and the USA.
Virtual and Augmented Reality
Seven augmented reality displays were found,
but interestingly no virtual reality units at all.
The augmented reality displays – three each
of cosmetics and skin care and one combined
unit – were all in department stores and Product Demonstration
featured interactive digital screens. Five were in
the UK, with one each in Ireland and the USA. Twenty-six displays had a staff member
present. Twenty of these were in the cosmetics
Finding Factices category and six in skin care, with six being
used for product demonstration.
Just 21 displays were either in the form of,
or incorporated, a factice (a large display These were spread across 11 specialist
version of the product). Fifteen of these were retailers, seven department stores, seven chain
in the women’s cosmetics category and six in pharmacy/drug stores and one independent
women’s skin care. Eight were there purely to pharmacy/drug store, and were found in
highlight the product and had no product for Canada, France, Ireland, the Netherlands,
sale. Ten were found in the UK and Ireland. Russia, South Africa and Spain.
27 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgSTOREDITS
SKIN CARE, MAKE-UP and COSMETICS
Number of displays seen
140
122
115 115
88
79 79 76
72 71 70
64 63 63
60 58
53
50 50 48 48 47 47 44
41
Source: POPAI
Big Branding Image Conscious
Noting the different types of branding seen, 385 Imagery, either of products or lifestyle
different cosmetic and skin care brands and own pictures conveying brand values, was the
label brands were found on the displays. The most common form of messaging. Product
vast majority of displays carried a single brand; information was also present, closely followed
however, 533 had multiple branding. by promotional messaging. Text with some
form of brand message was the least
Excluding own label, 26 of the brands exceeded common, seen on only 3% of displays.
one percent or more of the total seen.
Multiple messaging was also noted, with
some displays carrying a combination of the
communication types listed above.
Once again, department stores were more
to likely have displays carrying messaging of
some type.
Use of display messaging
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Department store
Grocery store
Pharmacy/drug store Imagery
– chain
Product information
Pharmacy/drug store Promotional information
– independent
Brand messaging
Specialist store
Source: POPAI
28 | STOREDITS | www.shopassociation.orgYou can also read
