Shivling 6543m - Adventure Peaks
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Shivling 6543m
EXPEDITION OVERVIEW
Mount Shivling is one of the most stunning peaks in the world, a huge granite tooth topped with ice and
snow that is often compared to the beauty of the Matterhorn and AmaDablam. It is in the Western Garhwal
of India and not far from the western border of Nepal. The mountain is approached from the nearest
village. Gangotri, with its beautiful temple and several lodges. Leaving the village via it’s glacier that
forms the Bhagirathi, the holiest tributary of the Ganges, the mountain itself is elegant and forbidding but it
is prized - a mountaineer’s peak. The expedition will attempt the original West Ridge that requires a good
level of technical skill.
Participation Statement
AdventurePeaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or
death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and
involvement.
Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary
Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight
schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. As a consequence, the order or location
of overnight stops and the duration of the day may vary from those outlined. You should be aware that some events are beyond
our control and we would ask for your patience.
101 Lake Road, Ambleside, Cumbria, LA22 0DB Telephone: 01539 433794
www.adventurepeaks.com info@adventurepeaks.com
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE/FITNESS You may wish to bring some food items from home that
You should be technically competent to Scottish grade 3, you can’t really live without. We ask all members and
Alpine AD, Rock VS and be prepared for roped and fixed guides/leaders to bring a group item to share amongst team
line travel. Most members will have experience to 5000m mates at base camp. This can be anything from a ‘home
or over. Summit success will require a high level of delicacy’ to a nice bottle of Scotch. It’s upto you.
aerobic and mountain fitnessascending a technical peak at
altitude is extremely demanding both physically and HEALTH
mentally.Shivling is an ideal step up from technical Alpine We carry a field medical kit and all our UK leaders havea
Climbing or Tien Shan Unclimbed. mountain first aid certificates and experience of expedition
and altitude ailments. You should bring your own supplies
of plasters, blister prevention pads (Compeed),
Paracetamol etc. and any medication you are taking.There
are no compulsory vaccinations for India but the following
are recommended: Hepatitis A, Tetanus, Polio and
Typhoid. Consult your GP or a vaccine specialist for
professional advice or refer to this website:
www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk.Tap or stream water should
never be drunk without first sterilizing with chlorine
dioxide tablets or by boiling.
LEADERS AND REGULATIONS
An experienced UK leader will accompany all groups.
He/she will be assisted by Indian guides, cooks, High
Altitude Porters (HAPs) and a Liaison officer appointed by
the Indian Mountaineering Federation is obligatory and
will accompany the expedition. India operates a very
formal and traditional system for climbing andShivling has
to be booked and the peak fee paid well in advance. INSURANCE
Insurance which covers mountain rescue, evacuation and
WEATHER medical expenses is essential. You should note there are
The date we have booked peak for this trip coincides with no official mountain rescue services in this area and that
the most stable weather in this region.The weather should any evacuation in the event of a serious medical
be pleasant during the dayon the trek-in with cooler emergency to the nearest hospital may be by land and not
evenings and nights. The higher you are on the mountain by helicopter. We will require a copy of your insurance
the colder it will be. Weather in the high mountains is prior to departure. Please also ensure your insurance
always unpredictable and you should be prepared for covers you for climbingover 7000m.
sudden changes.
ALTITUDE
WHAT TO CARRY If you are new to altitude you may have concerns about the
During the trek to BC members must carry appropriate effects. Our approach to BC is gradual with additional
protective clothing and emergency warm clothing as is acclimatisation days included to reduce the effects of
normal for a mountain day (8-10kg). A60-70l rucksack altitude and ensure good acclimatisation. The best way to
will be required above BC to enable personal kit including avoid altitude symptoms is to move at a gentle steady pace
bulky items such as sleeping bags and down jacket to be and drink plenty of fluid.
carried. Our high altitude porters will carry communal
equipment; tents, stoves, fuel and some food, clients may
need to carry their own high altitude food in addition to
your personal gear.High altitudeporters are available at extra cost
on this climb and will need to be booked and paid for in advance.
CAMP AND CATERING ARRANGEMENTS
We provide tents on the basis of two people sharing a three
person tent to allow space for kit bags and rucksacks.
Space at high camp is restricted and it will be 2 people per
two person tent or 3 per 3person tent! Individual tents for
use at BC and on trek can be provided at an extra cost.
Base Camp will consist of a large communal tent used for
cooking, eating and socialising.
Our food will be a combination of local Indian dishes and USEFUL TIPS
Western food to ensure you have good and nutritious food. Just in case your main luggage goes missing en route, it is
In high camps it will be freeze dried food supplied in a good idea to wear your boots on the plane. Most other
advance from the UK combined with some local produce.
101 Lake Road, Ambleside, Cumbria, LA22 0DB Telephone: 01539 433794
www.adventurepeaks.com info@adventurepeaks.com
things can be replaced but comfortable, well worn-in boots airport and in Delhi itself. Rupees can also be obtained in
cannot.Pack important items in strong plastic bags. advance in the UK. We advise you NOT to rely on getting
all your money from ATM’s – take some sterling cash
EQUIPMENT with you as well.
A detailed equipment list is provided on booking but will
include: Double boots, two axes, crampons, helmet, TIPPING
harness, 4/5 season sleeping bag (-20c), Down Jacket and Tipping is very much an accepted part of life in India, and
a 60-70L Sac. Specialist equipment can be hired from us. can become a bit tedious! We generally tip our local
For equipment purchases Adventure Peaks offers a trekking staff as a whole and would recommend around
15%discountoff RRP from their shop in Ambleside or £95 per person (150$). Tipping at meals and in hotels is
online at www.adventurepeaks.com also normal practice. At the end of the trek superfluous
clothing is usually pooled be the trekkers and donated to
BAGGAGE the trek staff as well – so do bring some old clothes that
For your own comfort it is advisable travel light. Normally you are willing to part with!
airlines restrict baggage to 23kg plus hand luggage but
please allow 5 kg of group within this allowance (you will ADVENTURE PEAKS KIT BAG
be wearing boots and one set of trekking clothes). All AdventurePeaks clients who reside in the UK will
receive a FREE kitbag for any treks outside the UK. The
VISAS AND PERMITS bag will be posted to you approx. 3 weeks prior to your
Visas for entry into India are required by most nationalities departure. If you have travelled with us before and already
for which we provide supporting information.Applications have an AdventurePeaks kitbag, or reside outside the UK,
must be made online either via the official consular site we will send an alternative gift.
http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk or there are other sites offering a
visa service for which an administration fee is charged. FLIGHTS AND JOINING ARRANGEMENTS
Adventure Peaks obtains an official Mountaineering Flights to and from Delhi are included as part of this
permit from the Indian Mountaineering Federation. expedition, but you are given the option of purchasing
your own flights to Delhi if you prefer.There are a number
LOCAL COSTS of routes and airlines from the UK to Delhi to choose
All peak fees, accommodation and most meals are from. Our preferred airlines are Jet, BA or Emirates whose
included. Additional costs would include any drinks or fights arrive in Delhi mid-morning on Day 2. Our group
snacks outside of mealtimes, meals on the transfers and in transfer to the hotel will leave Delhi airport at around
the townsand tips for local staff. You should allow in the midday to coincide with these flights. If you arrive at any
region of $300 inclusive of tips. other time you will need to take a taxi to the hotel.
In the event of the expedition finishing early you will be Return flights can be booked for anytime from the evening
responsible for any extra hotel nights taken and for any of Day 27. Some flights return in the same day.
costs associated with changing your return flight. Please
ensure that you have sufficient funds to cover this. PLEASE ENSURE YOU DO NOT PURCHASE
YOUR INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL (FLIGHTS OR
CURRENCY OTHER) UNTIL WE HAVE GUARANTEED YOUR
The currency in India is the rupee (INR). ATMs and TRIP IS RUNNING.
change bureaux are available in the arrivals hall at Delhi
ITINERARY
No Today we... We stay at... Accommodation... Meals...
1 Depart UK Plane Plane
2 Arrive Delhi Delhi Hotel
3 Train to Haridwar Haridwar Guest House B
4 Drive to Ultarkashi Ultarkashi(1110m) Guest House BLD
5 Drive to Gangotri Gangotri (3048m) Guest House BLD
6 Acclimatisation Day Gangotri (3048m) Guest House BLD
7 Trek in Day 1 Chirbasa (3458m) Camping BLD
8 Trek in Day 2 Bhojbasa (3784m) Camping BLD
9 Trek in Day 3 Base Camp (4510m) Camping BLD
10 Ferry loads to Camp 1 Base Camp (4510m)) Camping BLD
11 Move to Camp 1 Camp 1 (5180m) Camping BLD
12 Fix lines to Camp 2 Camp 1 (5180m) Camping BLD
13 Rest/Acclimatisation Day Camp 1 (5180m) Camping BLD
14 Move to Camp 2 Camp 2 (5600m) Camping BLD
15 Acclimatisation Day Camp 2 (5600m) Camping BLD
16 Move to Camp 3 Camp 3 (6200m) Camping BLD
17-18 Fix lines to Summit Ridge Camp 3 (6200m) Camping BLD
19 Summit Day Camp 3 (6200m) Camping BLD
20-22 Reserve Summit Days Camp 3 (6200m) Camping BLD
23 Descent to BC Base Camp (4510m) Camping BLD
24-26 Return Trek Gangotri (3048m) Camping BLD
27-28 Jeep to Haridwar/Train to Delhi Delhi Hotel BLD
29-30 Return flight to UK Home Own bed! B
101 Lake Road, Ambleside, Cumbria, LA22 0DB Telephone: 01539 433794
www.adventurepeaks.com info@adventurepeaks.com
Days 1/2Depart UK, Arrive Delhi and transfer to the hotel. Summit Day – The major obstacle is the Serac barrier that bars entry
onto the col and final summit ridge. This 70m vertical ice wall is
Day 3Free time for sightseeing in Delhi while the leader attends climbed in two pitches that will need to be fixed. The exact route will
an expedition briefing at the Indian Mountaineering Federation. be dependent on the prevailing conditions. Easy but crevassed
Evening Train to Haridwar. ground then leads to the col between Shivlings two summits. It is
then 4-5hrs to the summit on fixed lines. Total return summit day
Day 4Drive Haridwar to Ultarkashi(1110m) should be around 12 hrs.
Day 10Load Carry to Camp I approx. 6hrs return
Day 5Drive Ultarkashito Gangotri (3048m)
A fairly long day on the road as we drive to the road head at Day 11Move to Camp I (5180m). High Altitude Porters (HAPs)
Gangotri. Gangotri. Is a sacred place for Hindus, as it is the Ferry Loads.
source of the River Ganges and consequently is visited by hordes
of pilgrims. Day 12Establish route to Camp II (5600m) fixing lines on what is
regarded asthe most technical section of the route.
Day 6Acclimatisation Day at Gangotri (3048m)
Having gained significant altitude over the past two days we Day 13Rest &Acclimatisation Day as Sherpa’s and HAPs establish
spend the day around Gangotri undertaking a short camp II
acclimatisation walk.
Day 7Trek to Chirbasa (3458)
Before leaving Chirbasa we visit the temple to take a blessing
from the local priest in line with tradition! A short trekking day
of about 4hrs takes us towards Gamukh and the snout of the
Gangotri glacier. We get out first views of the very impressive
Bhagirathi Peaks. Camp Chirbasa, 4 hours walking.
Day 8Trek Chirbasa to Bhojbasa (3784m)
It is important to gain height slowly in order to ensure we are at
our strongest high on the mountain, so this is another short day.
Camp Bhojbasa, meaning home of the Birch tree3-4 hours
walking.
Day 9Trek Bhojbasa to Base Camp (4510m)
The final approach to base camp is over moraine5-7 hours
walking.
Base Camp to Camp I – We leave Base Camp up the steep
moraine on the right bank of the Meru Glacier to eventually gain
easier ground that leads to Camp 1 on the lower section of the
West Ridge.
Day 14Move to Camp II (5600m) as Sherpa’s and HAPs continue to
ferry loads or start to fix route to camp III
Day 15Acclimatisation Climb towards Camp III as Sherpa’s and
HAPs continue to fix route and establish camp III
Day 16Move to Camp 3 (6200m) on a very restricted area of the
where snow platforms need to be cut.
Day 17Rope fixing to the base of the Serac
Day 18 Rope fixing the Ice Wall/Serac
Day 19 Summit Day (6543m)
.
Day 20-22Reserve Summit Days
Camp I -II – The first half of the route from camp 1 involves a
rising traverse and one 30m vertical wall on the western side of Day 23Return to Base Camp
the rock tower between camp 1 and the west ridge. Fixed ropes
are established. The second half of the route continues on a rock Day 24-26Return Trek
traverse to the southern slopes of the ridge to Camp 2. Camp is
established between two rocky pinnacles. Day 27-28Return to Delhi. Debriefing for the leader with the Indian
Mountaineering Federation
Camp II-III – The ascent to Camp 3 is totally climbing on the
rocky west ridge of Shivling with the major vertical pitches Day 29-30 Return International Flight
(10m, 30m, 15m) interspersed by moderate 60-70 degree
climbing.
With special thanks to Ashley Burke for his kind
permission to use his images in this dossier
http://goo.gl/jc8hMC
101 Lake Road, Ambleside, Cumbria, LA22 0DB Telephone: 01539 433794
www.adventurepeaks.com info@adventurepeaks.com
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