Political Podcaster and activist Edda Falak, MBL
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Issue 2 | 2022 | www.gpv.is The Personal Is Political Podcaster and activist Edda Falak, on misogyny, sexual violence, and the failures of government Kælan Mikla Hvíla Sprungur Third Timer Ice Cave Music: The coolest goths are Dance: Photograper inspires Books: Hallgrímur Helgason Travel: We visit the newfound back and colder than ever choreographers breaks a literature record ice cave in Langjökull
COVER ART: Photo: Ari Magg Photo assistant: Stephan Adam Stylist: Auður Karítas Ásgeirsdóttir Make Up: Helena Jónsdóttir First 11: Personality Cracks 18: Hugar's Quiet Mind 26: Breaking Books 12: The Coldest Goths 19: Techno Nature 28: Restaurants In The 07: Lenya Rún's Perfect 22: Verðbúðin Tackles Time Of Pandemic Day The Fishing System 31: Nice Cave-ing The Power of Listening EDITORIAL What is the definition of a revolution? It’s a All of this has led to a more just society. A better world. concept we throw around haphazardly without There is no one who doubts it except, perhaps, the old fash- much thought about what it actually means. The meaning of a ioned conservatives. (Dare I say, fascists?) revolution in the 20th century was simple when armed insur- Edda has few, if any, connections with the official feminist gents took power with violence. Or, if we want to be technical movement or political parties. She stood up because she saw about it, a revolution is a forcible overthrow of a government injustice and decided to give other women—failed by the or social order in favour of a new system. media, politicians and the justice system,—a voice through We often use this word when talking about the #MeToo her podcast, Eigin Konur. movement; perhaps as a means of qualifying it in our minds The result has been impressive, to put it lightly. and better grasp it somehow. Edda Falak, who features on Edda says in her interview that politics are personal. This the cover of this issue, has put a lot of thought into people’s is a more meaningful sentence than one might think. A new readiness to call #MeToo a revolution: “We're always talking generation is not settling for the technocracy of politics; they about a new 'revolution', that now there's 'another revolution’, understand that politics involve everything from your basic but what I'm trying to point out is that this is a continuous human rights to how the police investigate sex crimes. And it movement, going on week after week, all year long.” takes more than a singular revolution to change everything. And she is dead right. Fighting for feminism, for a more Edda has shown the strength of one voice. But also, the equal society, is not a revolution, but an endless process. The strength in listening. Perhaps that’s the biggest lesson we can only comparison I can conjure is the hippie generation fighting take from her. For once, just listen. against the oppression of the conservative generation that was in power. They did this through culture and with emphasis on Valur Grettisson peace, much like the #MeToo movement. Editor-in-chief John Pearson, the Art Bicnick, the Pollý is a hard-work- Josie Anne Gaitens Helgi Harðarson is Catharine Fulton is a Shuruthi Basappa is Andie Sophia Fontaine Valur Grettisson is Grapevine's culture Grapevine's video ing journalist by day is an arts worker, well known as the writer who has been one of Iceland's most has lived in Iceland an award-winning editor, is a Reykjavík magician and pho- and an enthusiastic musician and writer brains and heart involved with the knowledgeable food- since 1999 and has journalist, author resident with profes- tographer, is himself ball-catcher by from the Scottish behind Grapevine’s Grapevine for many ies. She's covered been reporting since and playwright. He sional backgrounds unphotographable. night. A five-year-old Highlands. She was online store and years—possibly too local restaurants for 2003. They were the has been writing for in live music events, This is due to the dachshund mix with once erroneously newsletter. Fewer are many—serving as years and has also first foreign-born Icelandic media since broadcasting, scuba fact that he consists an IQ of a five-year- referred to as the aware that Helgi used journalist, food edi- been involved in vari- member of the 2005. He was also a diving, journalism, en- mainly of stardust; a old human, Pollý is Queen of Scotland to moonlight as a tor and news editor ous food competi- Icelandic Parliament, theatre critic and gineering and under- handy characteristic Chief Morale Officer by a Malaysian model in his younger before settling on tions in Iceland, such an experience they one of the hosts of water photography. that enables him to at the Grapevine, and newspaper and has years. Today he uses copy editor. When not as Food & Fun and recommend for the cultural program, We suspect that he float smoothly across a regular contribu- been falsely using his charm to write wielding her red pen more. By day, she anyone who wants 'Djöflaeyjan' on RÚV. just likes to collect job rocky volcanic ter- tor to the Grapevine that title ever since. quizzes for our news- she's often found works as an architect to experience a Valur is not to be titles. He is a big fan of rain, and through Newscast on You- In addition to her letter and find worthy opining on Canadian at Sei Studio. workplace where confused with the puns, alliteration and apparently solid Tube. Woof! Grapevine duties, she stuff for our shop. He politics (profession- colleagues work tire- dreadful football club lists that have three objects. is currently on a mis- also occasionally sells ally), and bitching lessly to undermine that bears the same things in them. sion to have a pint in ads. 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First The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 02— 2022 4 Imagine a million of these What Are Icelanders dance capacity. These loosened regulations are apparently not Talking About? loose enough for some people, as there have been regular outbreaks of small contingencies of anti- Headlines and bylines making waves vax, anti-mask and frankly THE HOME anti-science folks showing up in groups to complain about unspeci- Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Art Bicnick & Anna Andersen fied oppression and tyranny. The OF ICELANDIC most cringe example of this was NEWS Iceland’s history as a ened off by fireworks on January during the last weekend in Janu- Danish colony is back in 6th. Her owners were beside them- ary, when about a dozen people the news, primarily because Pirate selves with worry–that is, until dressed in black and wearing V SEAFOOD Party MP Björn Levi Gunnars- the 26th, when someone believed for Vendetta masks showed up at son submitted a parliamentary they saw Píla far up on a moun- Kringlan. Police promptly ushered proposal in late January calling tain ridge. The rescue squad was them out of the building, the irony AND LAMB for the Danish crown and royal deployed and brought Píla back to of wearing masks to protests insignia to be removed from the her owners, safe and sound and no masks apparently lost on these roof of Parliament. This would worse for wear, despite her expo- folks. seem like a reasonable enough ask– sure to winter weather and gale- Iceland has been an independent force winds. Finally, Íslandsbanki is forecasting APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart republic since 1944, and its legisla- that about a million tourists will ture prominently bearing the mark Pandemic restrictions were visit Iceland in 2022. A lot of this restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks of a former colonial overlord is relaxed again. We’re now at the will depend on vaccination and most historical buildings. probably not in keeping with a 21st point where masks are required, Omicron rates in other countries, century nation. However, this has there is some social distanc- but as things stand now, the next We specialize in fresh seafood created a backlash of sorts, with ing, quarantine has been mostly few years should see tourism make and local ingredients the Cultural Heritage Agency of replaced with “if you think you got a comeback as Iceland’s primary Iceland criticising the proposal on in contact with the virus, be careful financial engine. prepared with a modern twist. the grounds that it “erases history”, around others” and public events evoking such slippery slope argu- are open with expanded atten- ments as fears that other Danish- related landmarks will be removed from town and chucked into the APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR Austurstræti 16 101 Reykjavík apotek.is harbour. These fears are probably unfounded; Icelanders are keenly aware of the colonial era, and most Icelandic children are taught Danish in school to this day. In less controversial news, the story of a dog rescued from a mountainside after being miss- ing for 20 days has proven to be just the antidote for the torrent of bad news about the pandemic. Píla, the dog in question, went missing in the northwest town of Bolungarvík after she was fright- Monarchists DNI PUBLISHER CONTRIBUTING WRITER FOUNDERS CONTACT US: The Reykjavík Hilmar Steinn Josie Anne Gaitens Hilmar Steinn —» Editorial Grapevine is Grétarsson Grétarsson, +354 540 3600 distributed Shruti Basappa around Reykjavík, hilmar@grapevine.is Hörður Kristbjörnsson, editor@grapevine.is Published by Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, +354 540 3601 PHOTOGRAPHERS Jón Trausti —» Advertising Seyðisfjörður, Fröken ehf. 354 540 3605 Borgarnes, Keflavík, Hafnarstræti 15, publisher@grapevine.is Ari Magg Sigurðarson, ads@grapevine.is Ísafjörður, and at 101 Reykjavík Oddur Óskar key locations along Anna Maggý —» Distribution www.grapevine.is EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kjartansson, Iceland's route 1. Egill Logi Jónasson & Subscriptions It is also avaiable grapevine@grapevine.is Valur Grettisson Valur Gunnarsson +354 540 3604 valur@grapevine.is John Pearson at all major tourist distribution@ attractions and Member of the RAX grapevine.is information centres Icelandic Travel NEWS EDITOR around the country. Industry Association Andie Sophia Fontaine —» Press releases SALES DIRECTORS events@grapevine.is You may not like The www.saf.is andiesophia@ Reykjavík Grapevine, grapevine.is Aðalsteinn —» General Inquiries but at least it's Jörundsson grapevine@grapevine.is an independent Printed by Landsprent CULTURE EDITOR adalsteinn@grapevine.is publication. None ehf. of our editorial is John Pearson Helgi Þór Harðarson directed by sponsors johnpearson@ helgi@grapevine.is The Reykjavík Grapevine is or advertisers, and all grapevine.is opinions expressed published every month by Fröken Ltd. are the writer's own. PHOTO EDITOR Nothing in this Art Bicnick magazine may be art@grapevine.is reproduced in whole or in part without the COPY EDITOR written permission of the publishers. Catharine Fulton
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First 6 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 02— 2022 ASK AN Expert started sex work specifically to fund her drug addiction at the time, and would later become a client of SÁÁ. When she raised the issue with lead- ership at SÁÁ, where Einar was at the Q: How Are Ice Caves time a member of the board, no action was taken. Formed? Stundin also reports that the Directo- Words: Josie Anne / Joaquín M.C. rate of Health was made aware of the Belart matter in 2020. The Directorate, in Photo: Guðni Hannesson response to questions from Vísir, said that they had no prior knowledge of this case, and were not contacted about it, neither formally nor informally. “A case of immorality” Women’s welfare association The Root released a statement on the matter yesterday, in which they condemned Einar’s behaviour. “Einar’s violation against the woman One of SÁÁ's locations is a gross abuse of power from the director of a social organisation that Shake-Up At Addiction Centre the government has trusted for about 40 years to attend to the bulk of health Following Scandal care services for people with addic- tions,” the statement reads in part. “In this group are many of the country’s The old director is out, a new director is coming in marginalised people, and it is a case of immorality that has certainly affected Ice caves are a popular winter tourist attraction here in Iceland, with visi- Einar’s work as chairman, despite his tors travelling from far a wide to wit- Words: The now-former director of the a sex worker, but had engaged in the statement to the contrary. In few jobs ness the other-worldy beauty of these Andie Sophia National Center of Addiction Medicine practice through a dating site that do ethics have more value than in jobs incredible natural structures. Grape- Fontaine (SÁÁ), Einar Hermannsson, resigned anonymises users. Einar apparently for people with substance abuse prob- vine journalists even had a chance to from his position late January after learned of her through word of mouth, lems and marginalised people.” visit one themselves for this issue. But Photo: admitting he had responded to an and contacted her through a page she For their part, the board of SÁÁ how are ice caves actually formed? ja.is ad and paid for the services of a sex created on Facebook. has condemned Einar’s behaviour. We reached out to Joaquín Belart, a postdoctoral glaciology researcher worker. Þóra Kristín Ásgeirsdóttir, currently and Coordinator at the National Land However, the sex worker in ques- Whether the Directorate of the spokesperson for deCODE, is Survey of Iceland, to explain all. tion reached out to Stundin to dispute Health knew campaigning for the SÁÁ directorship. Einar’s story. Sharing screenshots of Glaciers contain networks of subgla- her message history with Einar, she Most damning of all is that the woman cial rivers that merge and unify into stated that she did not advertise being in question told reporters she had a main river when exiting the glacier. Ice caves are most commonly formed LOST IN GOOGLE TRANSLATION at the edge of the glacier, where the subglacial rivers melt the ice as they Famous Swamp Dwellers carve their way out. Other ice caves can be formed as vertical tunnels (also called “moulins”) near the glacier mar- gin. Moulins are created when a river runs over the surface of the glacier, Iceland has had its fair share of celebrity of this raises a number of questions. Is the and eventually sculpts its way into the visitors over the years; Justin Bieber got his swamp sentient? Can it indeed be fought? glacier, creating a series of galleries. kit off in a glacial lagoon, Kim K ate a hot dog Have we somehow witnessed a bizarre ex- The glacier rivers reduce their flow at Bæjarins Beztu and Ed Sheeran played a traterrestrial interaction and are about to drastically during the winter, leaving concert that a staggering 14% of the popu- be neuralyzed by one of Agent J’s Men In these caves nearly empty of water lation attended. But of all of the superstar Black colleagues any sec– and making them easier to access. tourists that Iceland can boast of, there’s The colder temperatures also make only one who we seem to have driven to the I, Translation Robot the ice stiffer, which makes the ice brink of absolute madness. Well, perhaps not. It turns out that this caves more stable and safer to visit is less a case of alien invasion, and more during the winter. Gettin' Jiggy Wit It some harmless robots messing up menial Enter Will Smith, or more accurately, this tasks for humans. Google translate took Ice caves in Iceland often have a headline about him on the website of Ice- one look at the word ‘mý,’ and decided that unique feature: they contain tephra, landic newspaper Morgunblaðið. The article it was meant to say ‘mýri,’ which translates or volcanic ash layers visible within the seems to claim that ‘Big Willy’ was so frus- to swamp. In reality ‘mý’ is short for ‘mýflu- ice. These are the result of the coun- trated while filming his documentary ‘Wel- gur –the annoying midge-like flies that are try’s various volcanic eruptions, and come To Earth’ in Iceland that he went a bit growing in numbers all over the country. mark the date that the ash originally feral, and ended up in an ‘Icelandic swamp’. While they do indeed congregate in marshy fell on top of the glacier. So if you see To make matters even more confusing, fur- areas, it’s good to know that Will was just a black line running along the wall of ther into the column it’s claimed that Mr. trying to fight them, and not an entire wet- an ice cave, you are looking directly at Smith actually published a video of himself land. JG a piece of volcanic history. ° ‘fighting’ the aforementioned swamp. All SMASHED BURGERS AND NASHVILLE-STYLE HOT CHICKEN IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍK HAFNARSTRÆTI 101 REYKJAVÍK
First 7 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 02— 2022 GODS OF ICELAND live) was to pay her off, and one of her payouts was her choice of husband NEW MUSIC PICKS from among the Æsir. But, the gods being prickly little bastards, said that she could only choose her husband by looking at their feet. Nice feet? Think again! Skaði, for some reason, agreed to these weird terms and got busy examining the gods’ feet. One pair was particu- larly clean and nice, and Skaði assumed these must be the feet of the hottest god out there, Baldur. But, to her disap- Árný Margrét pointment, the feet belong to Njörður. “Akureyri” Of all of the goddamn gods!? Acoustic guitar, voice, and the faintest of piano are the ingredients in this fragile number about the unravelling Screaming seagulls and of love. Árný Margrét makes the bold howling wolves Njörður, The Husband With choice of writing a song the chorus of which is almost indistinguishable from As you might expect, the marriage was the verses, but the result is a poem The Nice Feet extremely stormy, as Skaði couldn’t set to the sparsest of music. It’s no sleep in Njörður’s home, Nótatún, on surprise that the buzz around her is account of the maddening noise from growing. ASF the ocean and the screaming seagulls, which the god of the ocean could not, What’s the point of ruling the ocean if you can’t silence for some reason, silence. Njörður then the seagulls? agreed to move to Þrymheimur, but he couldn’t sleep there because of the howling wolves in the mountains. They Words: As odd as it may sound, unlike Greek The god of dullness finally agreed to split their time at each Valur Grettisson mythology, Nordic mythology doesn’t place. They would spend nine nights have one single god representing the There aren't many stories about at Nótatún and nine at Þrymheimur. Image: ocean. Rather, four figures are said to Njörður. Truthfully, he seems to have Finally, Skaði was fed up with this fine- Wikimedia be gods or rulers of the ocean: Mímir, been a remarkably dull character. That footed loser. She demanded a divorce Commons Ægir, Njörður and Nanna. is, until the unbelievably cool Jötunn and ended up marrying a man fitting Although Icelanders usually refer Skaði enters the scene. She lived in the to her badass legend, the all-seeing god, to Ægir when talking about the ocean, mountains of Þrymheimur, the home Óðinn. Salóme Katrín then he is not technically a god, but a of Jötnar. She travelled on skis and “The Other Side” giant. The only one that is actually a hunted animals with her bow. But then After an initial minute of plaintive god/Æsir is Njörður (Nanna is also a tragedy hit. Superpowers: guitar and fragile vocals, this track goddess). Njörður is the god of wind Controls the wind, has really drops into a heavy rock explosion of and is responsible for one of the oldest Prickly bastards nice feet. joy, creating a juxtaposition that is liberating rather than jarring. This was sayings in Icelandic, “sá er galli á gjöf Weaknesses: apparently the intended effect, since Njarðar” (the problem with Njörður’s Skaði’s father, Þjassi, was killed by the Can’t sleep around howling Salóme Katrín describes the song as gift). Nobody knows exactly what this gods after Loki’s infamous heist of wolves, can’t silence the seagulls “a bedroom party, jumping on the bed means, but the best guess is it’s fish Iðunn, and Skaði was hell-bent on kill- singing into your hairbrush”. ASF related because Njörður is also the god ing every last one of those pompous Modern Analogy: The depressing film, Marriage of wind. So, the problem with his gift f$%&ers of Æsir. When she marched Story is wind, and Icelanders hate the f#$% into Valhalla, the Æsir saw that the wind. only way to make peace with her (and JUST SAYINGS Does the guy hitting on you have grass Grass In Shoes? in his shoes? Odd, right? Rest assured, though, that he’s not utterly insane, but rather into you in a very old fashioned He's In Love way. The saying ‘Að ganga á eftir einhverjum með grasið í skónum’ literally means, With You to walk after someone with your shoes filled with grass. And it means that Hugar the one that has the grass in its shoes “Ævi” is begging something of you or trying There’s no ‘new year, new me’ rhetoric to win your heart. Now, it’s an unoffi- from Hugar in this track from their cial secret that people actually did this latest album, ‘Rift’. Instead we some centuries ago, although no scholar gratefully receive five-and-a-half really knows why. Some theories are minutes of moody, atmospheric that it was just a fashion at the time. post-rock greatness. Lose yourself in the waves of sound, fantasising Our theory is that it was to kill the smell that you’re riding across the brutal of the sweaty feet. It doesn't have to be Icelandic landscape on horseback. Or, complicated. Though describing ritu- in my case, imagining that I look super als of the olden days, this saying is very cool while doing my silly little yoga common in modern Icelandic. VG routine. JG Catcher in the rye watch GRAPEVINE ON YOUTUBE /TheReykjavikGrapevine
8 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 02— 2022 Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Ari Magg A Time To Listen Podcaster and activist, Edda Falak, has given her platform to the voice- less, but she points out that the responsibility to chance society falls on the powerful; not survivors of sexual violence. Will politicians act?
9 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12— 2021 lem. It shouldn't have to be some kind Add to this being young. There's this “I don't want to put forward a of revolution. There are some people outlook among young women that no saying 'this isn't political' but it most one will believe you, you won't dare to certainly is political. Because we need talk about what happened to you, and if one-sided opinion. I want to bring social changes to go into effect more you do, no one will believe you. It's as if than the discussions about the need you don't matter as much.” for these changes. That's something certain subjects to the surface, else I'm trying to draw attention to.” Fighting back, for her, must involve The courts and the cops numerous sectors of society, from the for society to talk about.” private to the public. “We need to see changes such as large companies taking a public stance, Edda is encouraged to see the grass- such as what happened with Ísey,” she roots organising, making their voices Long-time readers of the Grapevine may have noticed a series of stories The back- says, referring to how shortly after an interview she did with Vítalía Laza- heard and having an impact on private companies. over the past few years on prominent, often powerful, Icelandic men being lash, followed reva, who recounted harrowing details of being sexually abused by a group of “We're seeing more and more that women are standing together,” she revealed to have crossed boundaries of consent with women, in particular, by listening men, Ísey’s CEO, Ari Edwald, was fired swfitly. “Ari was fired in the wake of the says. “If there's a group of people standing together, it's a lot more diffi- women who are younger and often of The beginnings of Eigin Konur were interview. It's also a social change for cult to oppose them. You're seeing the foreign origin. Each time this happens, marked by a storm of responses–many these companies to publicly condemn younger generation isn’t letting the the stories grab headlines for some of them positive, some of them nega- violence, but at the same time, we do older generation get away with their days or weeks, sometimes prompt- tive, but all of them engaging with the need political changes. shit. People aren't as afraid. If someone ing other survivors to come forward, content. “We really need to improve how says you're lying, you know there will either about the men in question or “I sort of jumped into the deep end sexual assault cases are handled. We be people who stand with you, which about other men and their transgres- talking about things that were causing know it's illegal to sexually assault matters a lot. There are people encour- sions. a real buzz in society, like porn, Only- someone, but there will always be aging others not to do business with a Each time this happens, numer- Fans, fatphobia and other things that people who do it anyway. Education particular company or other because ous media outlets, (and the Grape- people had strong opinions about and needs to be prioritised—education in they're not taking a stand, which exerts vine is, admittedly, not an exception found uncomfortable to listen to,” Edda schools. The courts system isn't good financial pressure on these compa- here), frame this as “another” wave of says. “So the first responses were very enough, and we don't have recourse nies.” the #MeToo movement. The problem negative, but everyone was listening, for survivors. The government isn't At the same time, she also believes with this is it treats a systemic, ongo- everyone was watching, and everyone subsidising psychiatric services for that there needs to be fundamental, ing problem of sexual violence–more had an opinion. I worked on the things survivors. We're lacking funding in sweeping changes made to Iceland’s often than not perpetrated by power- that I wanted to; I don't want to put recourse, both regarding perpetrators courts and police. ful men against younger, marginalised forward a one-sided opinion. I want to and survivors.” “The problems with the court system women–as an anomaly. The sad truth bring certain subjects to the surface, are all built on top of this prejudice is, these events are not the exception; for society to talk about. So while the which exists within the system,” she they are the norm. response was at first negative, that Trans women says. “It's often as if the court system and foreign One person who knows this all too changed rather quickly.” is primarily dominated by white men well is Edda Falak, an Icelandic woman Edda makes no claims to being an who have maybe already made up their who has found herself at the forefront of what is a continuous movement of objective reporter on the subjects she covers, but at the same time, hearing women minds, and have already decided not to believe survivors. You can have a case marginalised people pushing back from many different sides of an issue that has texts, screenshots, witnesses, against patriarchal violence. She is the is deeply important to her. Edda is also, thankfully, very much all that, but the case is still dropped. host of a popular podcast called Eigin “I definitely don't want to put aware of how some women—namely We're talking about powerful people Konur (a play on the Icelandic word for forward a one-sided opinion, and trans women, foreign women, and making decisions based on their own “wives”, i.e. “eiginkonur”, which liter- be telling people what is 'right' and young women—are particularly prejudices.” ally means “owned women”), and the 'wrong',” she emphasises. “It's built vulnerable, experiencing intersections Much the same issue is present interviews she has conducted have on the idea to discuss these subjects of oppression that also make coming in the police, she says. “When one is broken news, brought down CEOs, from the point of view of many differ- forward and recounting being abused questioned, the questions that are and sparked a long-overdue discus- ent sides. That's the way it should all the more daunting. being asked; we need to examine that. sion of why sexual violence persists in be. That said, with every subject that “Out of prejudice against trans What is being asked? Why aren't they the “feminist paradise” of Iceland, and I'm reporting on, I am obviously not people, there's this pervasive attitude following up on these cases? What's in what can be done to change it. neutral, rather I think these are things that trans people subjected to sexual the interests of the police that prompts that matter to society. I also feel there violence deserve it somehow,” she says. them to not examine this case, or that is a social responsibility to listen to “You see this kind of shame associated case? There's corruption and prejudice Making use people who are speaking from their with being with a trans person, which within the system, and we need to kick of a platform lived experience. That's what I think can lead to this violence. And trans these people out.” matters.” people are often scared to seek justice in the wake of it. It's not talked about “Before I started the podcast, I had very much here, but you see it abroad The state newly finished coursework in Finance “Another that the numbers are remarkably high, bears respon- revolution” and Strategic Management in Copen- and while those numbers might not be hagen, and was competing in crossfit at this time,” Edda recalls. “At the same officially as high in Iceland, they are; it's just kept quiet. There is clearly not sibility time, I was very active on social media Edda has observed with some frustra- enough education going on in grade on specific matters where I was talking tion how each revealed instance of school. This is a specific prejudice Particularly frustrating to Edda is to about things, usually about how women powerful men abusing their positions against trans people.” see members of Parliament and Reyk- and female bodies are hypersexualised, is framed as a new wave in what she She adds: “When it comes to women javík City Council—the very people how violence is connected to that. I sees as a continuous, ongoing move- of foreign origin, Icelandic men see with the power to make the necessary was sharing photos and comments ment. This movement, she says, has themselves as above these women. Prej- changes—not back up their rhetoric on my Instagram story showing how material goals in mind. udice against women of foreign origin or the campaign promises with real men usually talk to me, and how it is “We're always talking about a new is based on them not being Icelandic; action. to be a woman in masculine worlds like 'revolution' [in the #MeToo move- they don't have as much respect for “It is incredibly frustrating to see all finance and sports, talking about these ment], that now there's 'another revo- those women. These are women who these members of Parliament on social things on social media. That ended up lution', but what I'm trying to point don't have as many connections in media saying 'we support survivors, go transforming into the podcast.” out is that this is a continuous move- Icelandic society, don't know as many you',” she says. “But it isn't our prob- Rather than centering her own ment, going on week after week, all people, that no one will believe them lem; it's their problem. So we clearly opinions, from the very beginning year long,” she says. “This is a prob- because they're not Icelandic. All this. need to put the pressure on. It shows Edda sought to pass the mic to those whose voices often go unheard. “It's often as if the court system is primarily “I had built up a good group of followers and a platform, and a lot of people had opinions on these matters dominated by white men who have maybe and how they were covered, so I just decided that instead of all this revolv- ing around me all the time, to hear already made up their minds, and have already from others,” she says. "[Eigin Konur] started in connection with people who were working in production, and wanted to do this properly. I wanted to have a real influence in exacting change. Today, there's an advertising decided not to believe survivors” office helping me with all the graphics, video and sound and such.”
10 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 02— 2022 who's really supporting survivors and who isn't. Stop voting She adds: “It's performative to see a party that has [making these changes] A matter “I see, of course, that things are for these as part of its platform, yet they have of life and people! death happening, but we still need changes shown that they have no regard for amongst these powerful people who minority groups. So why should this are in government. These are people be on their platforms now?” who could make real changes. You're The cynical opportunism of politicians These parties are so entrenched in At our interview’s close, Edda offers seeing MPs saying things like 'Wow, go has used up all its charm, in Edda’s society that Edda is not especially opti- some thoughts for men reading this; you, you're doing so well, we support mind. The time for talk and hashtags mistic that things will change any time what they could take away, and how you' but this person maybe represents is over; the time for action is long over- soon, as that would require a large they can help make the changes much a party that's in the government.” due. section of the population to actually needed in Icelandic society. For one example, she refers again “We also see political parties using vote them out. “It matters a lot to listen to people to her interview with Vítalía, who #MeToo and all that in their campaigns “People need to stop voting for parties who are talking,” she says. “It's sad to had named famed media personality to get themselves voted into govern- that are focusing on all kinds of things say, but this could be your mother, your Logi Bergmann amongst the men who other than the people in this coun- cousin, your sister, or whoever. This crossed a line with her, and who later try,” she says. “We've never seen them is a matter of life and death for some took to Facebook to deny the allega- people, to be listened to.” tions against him. For survivors, she emphasised that “At the same time, we see for no one is under any obligation to go example Katrín Atladóttir, who is the public with some of the most trau- Independence Party representative in Reykjavík City Council, 'supports the fight' but still standing by a Facebook post from an alleged abuser,” she says. matic events of their lives. As always, since well before Eigin Konur was “Meanwhile, Reykjavík City has a direct launched, Edda Falak wants them to line to allocating resources in the fight know that she stands with them. against sexual violence. So yeah, it's a “I want them to know that they are bit annoying to see people cheerlead- believed,” she says. “There's a whole ing 'good for you' but she's someone bunch of people out there who stand who could actually make changes and ment, and promise to pay down psychi- together. It's not like it was. I so look yet obviously supports an accused atric services and speed up processing up to people who are still with us today abuser. of sexual assault cases in the judicial despite everything that's happened to “This is worrying. So what does it system, and such,” she points out. “But putting any reforms into how sexual them. It's so admirable, and it's not a mean to be cheerleading? They could when they're voted into government, assault cases are handled. That has given. I think it's also important to actually do something, but they shift suddenly there's no money to pay never happened, we haven't seen it, emphasise that no one is obligated to the responsibility onto us. I had to sit down psychiatric services, nothing is and that's why I don't have any hope change their experience into some kind with Vítalía in an hour-long interview done. This is just performative. We're that this will ever change. We need to of 'empowering story' to help others. where she describes these disgusting seeing judges who are in these parties see loads of parties talking about this Sometimes it's really just a matter of events in painful detail before anything that have power, writing columns in daily; not just the week before election living, eating, sleeping, surviving. Not was said. She had already talked about newspapers that say 'we don't always day.” everyone needs to go public. It can be this before but no one listened. I have need to believe survivors'. These are really difficult. But it's important to yet to see any changes that would be people who are still in government, me that they know that they, too, are good for survivors.” and that's cause for worry.” believed.”
Find today's events in Iceland! Download our free listings app - APPENING on the Apple and Android stores CULTURE NEWS Sámi National Day Films Film Screenings February 6th - 16:00 to 20:00 - The Nordic House - Free (sign up online) The Nordic House is celebrating Sámi National day on February 6th by screening a selection of films in collaboration with the International Sámi Film Institute. The afternoon will start with short films, followed by a screening of ‘Eatnameamet— Our Silent Struggle’, directed by indigenous filmmaker Siv West. The films shed light on the Sámi people’s long fought battle against assimilation, colonisation and eradication. JG Dancing Between The Cracks The icy stage set is powerfully striking. "Some- times when we have the glacier around us, we feel really cold suddenly," Emilía observes. "And often the people who are watching also feel Hvíla Sprungur explores the crevasses in our cold!" own personal glaciers Old collaborators, new Authentic Finnish Sauna Words: John Pearson Photos: RAX collaboration Finnish Culture Day The project is an opportunity for old friends Iceland's glaciers are a rich source of symbol- connections with the core ideas of the piece, Ásgeir and Emilía to work together again, for February 27th - 13:00 to 16:00 - ism. We observe these majestic ice caps melt as Emilía explains: "Every single one of us has the first time in years, and to work with new Breiðholtslaug - Free Entry and recede as a stark reminder of the climate been trying to dig into our own past a little bit friends. crisis. At the same time, they are some of and find our own stories, so we've been going "It's great for us, the old ones, to be with the Finns: we’re not sure how to feel the last areas of land largely untouched by through that as well. Sometimes the snow goes young ones," Emilía laughs, referring to fellow about them. Do we trust these human encroachment, representing a truly over the crevasse, so you don't see it. And also dancers Erna Gunnarsdóttir and Sigurður guys with their weird vowels and wild Iceland. And the glaciers can also act as with ourselves, maybe we have a problem that Andrean Sigurgeirsson. "They keep us on our unnecessary amount of trees? But a broader metaphor for our existence, their we don't really show. But it's there." toes!" there is one thing Finland definitely cracks and crevasses reminding us of the risks Ásgeir sees the timing of this project as The music for 'Hvíla Sprungur' is an evolving gets right, and that’s sauna. of being human. particularly significant. "I think that COVID piece based on the composition 'Quadrantes' by Luckily for us the Finnish Embassy 'Hvíla Sprungur' is a new performance by has become, for many people, a bit of a revela- Óttar Sæmundsen and Stephan Stephensen, a is celebrating ‘Kalevala’ – Finnish the Iceland Dance Company that opens this tion that they are stuck in a crevasse of some former member of Gusgus. In fact, the project National Culture Day – by inviting month at Reykjavík's Borgarleikhúsið. The title sort. You're forced to face your personal things is also a four-way reunion for Inga, Stephan, us all to the pool to check out translates as 'Rest Cracks', but its given English because you can't really go on with life as usual." Ásgeir and Emilía, who all worked together on authentic Finnish sauna traditions. title of 'Crevasses' points more accurately to the the project 'Journey', a collaboration between Expect birch twigs. JG focus of choreographer Inga Maren Rúnarsdót- Chilling imagery Gusgus and the Iceland Dance Company back tir's work. The set, designed by Júlíanna Lára in 2015. Steingrímsdottir, and the dancers' costumes The set is based on glacial imagery from Emilía and Ásgeir are excited to bring 'Hvíla comprise photos by celebrated Icelandic photographer RAX. The scenery is the same Sprungur' to the stage. "This piece is going to wilderness photographer RAX, (Ragnar Axels- design as the dancers' costumes, which allows be very audience friendly. It's really dancey, and son). the performers to hide on stage. it has beautiful music!" says Emilía. Two of the four performers—Ásgeir Helgi "I think that comes from Inga's own child- So come and experience 'Hvíla Sprungur'. Magnússon and Emilía Benedikta Gísladót- hood, and the memories that she was working Just bring a decent coat and some mittens. tir—shared their thoughts and experiences with," Ásgeir explains. "A need for self-protec- just before the premiere performance. tion. How can you blend into the background? Performances are at Borgarleikhúsið on February "It's amazing to work with Inga Maren," says Like the ptarmigan in the winter, turning white 4th, 10th and 18th at 20:00. Tickets cost 4,450 ISK Ásgeir, when asked how the show was develop- to blend in with the snow." and are available from tix.is Hyperpop Galore! ing. "It's so good to have somebody orchestrat- ing who really knows what they want, but is Inspector Spacetime With Young open to suggestions." Nazareth "It's been a really fun process," Emilía says, "and so nice to be able to come to work during February 5th - 20:00 - Prikið - Free this strange COVID time. So it's been a blessing Entry to gather here, create something beautiful and have fun." Live music is back, baby! And who better to celebrate its welcome Mind the gap return with than dancepop darlings (and Grapevine Music Award In this work, Inga Maren dives within herself winners) Inspector Spacetime? to look at her personal weak points—her The happy trio are basically party cracks and crevasses—and asks: what are incarnate, and this concert is the the breaches in her own personal glacier into ideal way to firmly shake off those which she falls? And considering wider society, January blues. Come along to Prikið as it traverses the metaphorical glacier: how on Saturday and we guarantee do we travel together in a way that enables us you’ll dansa og bánsa with the best to pull each other up when we inevitably fall? of them. Just make sure you get And how do we avoid falling in the first place? down early because it’s going to be These questions take on physical expression in rammed. JG 'Hvíla Sprungur'. The dancers have also been making personal A disappearing dancer
Culture The Reykjavík Grapevine 12 Issue 02— 2022 happen in the universe of Kælan goes down, and it's like the songs Mikla, under the cold northern are building a story that we are lights.” performing.” “When we talk about the spirit “And we become hypnotised. We of Kælan Mikla, and the universe, get so connected on stage, and we we're talking about the three of us feel like we are conjuring the spirit together,” Margét says. “We always that is Kælan Mikla. We become feel like we conjure this femme one unit when we are onstage,” fatale spirit, like together we are concludes Laufey. stronger. Together we have the alter ego of this femme fatale ice Longing for a tour bus queen.” bunk “I think that this is the most visual album we have ever Naturally, like many musicians, the released,” says Laufey, “because band feel thwarted by the ongoing a lot of it talks about the Kælan pandemic disruption. Mikla universe and shows people “We have a release tour in the environment that we imagine Europe,” says Margrét. “I think our music to happen in.” it’s 29 shows or something that is supposed to happen in April, but The importance of now we’re just crossing fingers. appearance When you release the album, you want to perform it. You can’t just A strong and deliberate visual put an album online and be like, identity is a core part of Kælan ‘Hey, here's the album.’ You need to Mikla, and music videos form an back it up; promote it, travel, meet important part of their creative people and perform it.” offering. Four tracks from ‘Undir “We did all those shitty base- Köldum Norðurljósum’—almost ment shows for five people,” half the tracks on the album—have Margrét continues, harking back to had excellent videos created for the band’s early days. “And now we them and, despite being made by play for like 2000 people!” inter- four different directors, the band’s jects Laufey. “But we put in the visual concept runs as a solid work,” Margrét says. “And now we thread through them all. can’t do that work.” Perhaps most notable is the video for “Hvítir Sandar”, which Farewell in Berlin was directed by Máni Sigfússon and won Video Of The Year at The The band start recalling tales of Grapevine’s 2022 Music Awards. their “shitty basement show” Kælan Mikla had first worked with tours from back in the day, when Máni in 2015, when band and direc- they would traverse Europe’s train tor were paired up to make a promo network unaccompanied—carry- video for the Iceland Airwaves ing their instruments in tote festival. bags—to play bookings secured by “We were trying to think of Sólveig in a bout of pushy teenaged video artists, and then we remem- enthusiasm. Like the time Margrét bered this thing that we made with stopped a man stealing her bass on him,” says Laufey. “Yeah, because a railway platform, only to lose her the lyrics in the song are a lot about breakfast croissant to him instead. texture and feelings and how it is And the time a random lost Turk- to touch things,” Sólveig chimes ish guy, who spoke no Icelandic The Cold Light in. “And opposites like black liquid or English, decided to join Kælan and white sand. We just thought he Mikla as their bodyguard/porter in would be perfect, and he was!” return for the band guiding him to Berlin. The importance of “And when we got out of the Of Night appearing train station, he just walked away,” recalls Margrét. “After travelling A n o t h er c r u c i a l e l em en t of with us for 24 hours, he just looked Kælan Mikla is the live show. The at us like ‘Okay’, and walked away band augment their sound with like he had done his job. And we costume, stage theatrics, video and still think about him today!” even incense to hit the senses. “I just want to hire him again!” Kælan Mikla have a dark new universe to share “It is theatre; essentially Kælan Mikla is a live band,” says Laufey. says Sólveig. “And next time we will pay him!” says Laufey. Words: John Pearson Photo: Ása Dýradóttir Album cover: Førtifem / Merch Babe “The music is made to be live. It’s Cue the Kælan Mikla laughter not meant to be on records, you again. Now that’s not very goth, is know?” it? The mercurial Kælan Mikla truthfully, when people ask what for example, the album’s tender Sólveig nods in agreement: defy description in many ways. kind of music we make, I have no closing track “Saman” is written “It’s such a journey. When we go Pre-order the Exquisite Deluxe Although it might appear that idea.” in waltz time rather than a more on stage, we always plan the intro. Edition of 'Undir Köldum Norðurljó- many of the band’s motifs and “I think that our genre is Kælan common “rock” time signature. We plan how it builds up and sum' on blue vinyl: shop.grapevine.is themes could be huddled together Mikla!” concludes Laufey. And generally, the band’s refined under the big black umbrella of production focus on this album “goth”, that just seems too simplis- Cold northern lights shines through in enhanced sonic tic. Not to mention somewhat sophistication. The sound of reductive. Their most recent album, ‘Undir ‘Undir Köldum Norðurljósum’ is Besides, when we talk, Kælan Köldum Norðurljósum’ (‘Under The a seductive whisper rather than a Mikla—that is, Sólveig, Margrét Cold Northern Lights’), continues strident shout; its feel is expansive, and Laufey—laugh. In fact, they Kælan Mikla’s tradition of evolving not oppressive. laugh quite a lot. Now that’s not that genre through each musical very goth, is it?. project. For this one—produced by The Kælan Mikla Barði Jóhannsson—the band spent universe Pigeonholes are for 18 months in Barði’s studio, as pigeons opposed to recording in a garage as The band are named after the they did for the preceding record. beautiful but deadly snow queen “We have never put a label on “We were working with Barði for in Tove Jansson’s Moomin books, ourselves,” says vocalist Laufey. one and a half years, really trying an idea around which the band “And we think it's really difficult to make every sound perfect,” says have created their own universe; to do, because all of our albums are Sólveig. “And it was really nice to a fantasy version of Iceland where different and we never know what try that out.” ‘Undir Köldum Norðurljósum’ we're going to do next.” “It was the first time that we takes place. “Then when you release a differ- worked with a producer like that. Laufey explains: “It is made up ent album, people are like, ‘What? And he was pushing us a lot to go of stories that are kind of based This is not what I signed up for!’” all the way and you know, try every- on Icelandic folklore and nature. laughs bassist Margrét. “We always thing,” says Laufey. They’re these little fairy tales that have the same essence even though That spirit of growth and we made ourselves, and what they we're using different genres. And experimentation shines through; all have in common is that they
OUR STORES IN REYKJAVÍK: FARMERS & FRIENDS
Best of Reykjavík The Reykjavík Grapevine 14 Issue 02— 2022 A LITERARY TOUR AROUND ICELAND Ligeglad - it's bracing stuff Best of Icelandic TV Shows Verbúðin What to do in a storm and a This show is, as I write this, showing pandemic? Watch the TV, you fool! on RÚV and it’s already being called one of the best TV shows ever made in Iceland. The reason is compli- Words: Valur Grettisson Photos: Stills from the shows cated. First, it’s about the Icelandic fishing quota system. Sounds excit- It’s that time of the year when we hide under the blanket, eat candy and ing, right? And second, it’s set in the binge TV while listening to the wind shaking the foundation of our homes. 80s. To explain the first element, the Add a pandemic to this annual winter hibernation and you have the perfect quota system is a highly explosive environment for discovering some new Icelandic TV shows. So, here goes... political topic in Iceland going back decades. But don’t worry, you don’t need to understand the system to enjoy the show. It’s a story about people, their emotional lives, fuck- ing and fighting and, in the end, how the hell Icelanders became so rich! Well, some of them, at least. The 80s throwback is also incredibly well executed, and Icelanders connect deeply with many of the cultural references in the show, making it worth watching for everyone seek- ing a better understanding of the Icelandic soul. Næturvaktin Storytelling is probably the most Many Icelanders believe that this is the best comedy of all time. And I tend important cultural tradition in to agree, although new shows are giving it a run for its money. Næturvaktin was directed by the great Ragnar Bragason and stars Jón Gnarr, who later Iceland and a lot of its places became the punk mayor of Reykjavík. At the show’s core is the complicated have enthralling tales to tell. and violent relationship between a gas station manager and his employees. The show has been remade in Norway, as Nattskiftet, but the original Nætur- vaktin (‘The Night Shift’, in English) has been shown across Europe. This book is a round trip around the country, with thirty stops at such places along the way. Venjulegt Fólk Venjulegt Fólk is greatly underval- ued, in our opinion. The show is one of few that made it to a fourth season and it has a surprisingly good combination of drama and comedy. It also has a stellar ensem- ble of actors to elevate it from being a bland melodrama. The series is, more or less, about regular people Ligeglad dealing with happiness, conflict and stress in modern times. Like This might be a controversial pick, on reality; for example, the charac- that explains anything. It took me a but it is one of the best comedies ters have the actor's name and Helgi moment to get on board, but when I Icelanders have produced—I Björnsson, the famous Icelandic pop finally got there, I just couldn’t stop stand on that hill and I will die on star and actor, plays himself at the watching these characters. it. Although the show is set not in end of his career. (In fact, Helgi’s ICELAND’S LARGEST BOOKSTORE Iceland but Denmark, the creators career has only blossomed during grasp the odd humour of Icelanders the pandemic.) These shows are Forlagið bookstore | Fiskislóð 39 | www.forlagid.is and the well-known concept of the a small gem in the TV history of Open weekdays 10–18 | Saturdays 11–16 Icelandic loser. The show borders Iceland.
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