Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group

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Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
BRAD A. JOHNSON’S

75
best
PLACES TO EAT

                May 2019
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
SUMMER
IS CALLING
  MARGARITAS AT SUNSET,
FRESH SEAFOOD, BAJA TACOS
TAKE A TRIP TO SOL TONIGHT.

                              BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 3
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
75
     Hana re • Costa Mesa                                 BRAD A. JOHNSON’S                                2145 Pizza • Costa Mesa
   Bourbon Steak • Dana Point                                                                                   Chaak • Tustin
   Marché Moderne • Newport                                                                                Mr. G’s • Newport Beach
            Beach                                                                                                 PAGE 17
    Taco Maria • Costa Mesa
       Arc • Costa Mesa                                                                                 Mayor’s TablevNewport Beach
                 PAGE 6                                                                                     Cdm • Corona del Mar
                                                                                                       Selanne Steak Tavern • Laguna
      Vaca • Costa Mesa                                                                                            Beach

                                                          best
     Brick • San Clemente                                                                               Lido Bottle Works • Newport
  Mastro’s Steakhouse • Costa                                                                                      Beach
             Mesa                                                                                         Meizhou Dongpo • Irvine
   Broadway • Laguna Beach                                                                                        PAGE 18
   Water Grill • Costa Mesa
                 PAGE 7                                                                                 Ocean at Main • Laguna Beach

        Irenia • Santa Ana                                PLACES TO EAT                                  Chada Thai • Garden Grove
                                                                                                           Harvest • Laguna Beach
                                                                                                          Javier’s at Crystal Cove •
    The Ranch Restaurant •
             Anaheim                             THIS IS THE FIFTH EDITION of this guide — a                   Newport Beach
  A Restaurant • Newport Beach                roadmap to Orange County’s wildly diverse dining              Peking Restaurant •
    Solita • Huntington Beach                 scene. Narrowing this list to 75 recommendations                   Westminster
       Vine • San Clemente                    gets harder each year.                                              PAGE 19
                 PAGE 8                          How do I compare an intimate, 10-seat oasis
                                              like Hana re in Costa Mesa with, say, the chaotic,         Tacos la Calle • Buena Park
      EnoSteak • Dana Point                   smoky, steamy, non-air-conditioned El Coyotito            Garlic & Chives • Garden Grove
 The Capital Grille • Costa Mesa              in San Juan Capistrano? When you call to make a              Davio’s Northern Italian
     LSXO • Huntington Beach                  reservation at Hana re — reservations are essential            Steakhouse • Irvine
 Pizzeria Mozza • Newport Beach               and available only by phone — the soft voice on            Tupelo Junction • Newport
  The Cannery • Newport Beach                 the other end will ask, “You are aware that we                        Beach
                PAGE 10                       offer only a chef’s tasting menu, right?” Hana re          Thai Avenue • Garden Grove
                                              takes you on an extraordinary journey through                       PAGE 20
   Shunka Sushi • Costa Mesa                  the nuances of Japanese cuisine and hospitality.
       North Italia • Irvine                  If you’ve been here before, the chef/owner likely            Del Frisco’s Grille • Irvine
  Kyung Bok Kung • Buena Park                 remembers exactly what you ate, even if it was two        Brussels Bistro • San Clemente
    Craft House • Dana Point                  years ago.                                                  Sapori Ristorante • Newport
  Louie’s by the Bay • Newport                   At El Coyotito, you push through a squeaky                          Beach
              Beach                           screen door and seat yourself. The staff is too          El Coyotito • San Juan Capistrano
                PAGE 12                       busy pressing tortillas or flipping shrimp on the             Manpuku • Costa Mesa
                                              grill to greet you at the door, but they see you and                PAGE 21
   Pho 101 • Westminster                      wave. The restaurants on this list represent every
    Olea • Newport Beach                      stratum of the dining spectrum, yet they all share           Southern Spice • Irvine
Maro Wood Grill • Laguna Beach                the same goals: great food and service, on their           Suski Roku • Newport Beach
  Din Tai Fung • Costa Mesa                   own terms.                                                   Zait & Zaatar • Anaheim
  TJ’s Woodfire Pizza • San                      The price of dinner is not what makes one more          Eddie V’s Wildfish • Newport
           Clemente                           important than another, but when organizing this                      Beach
                PAGE 14                       list it’s impossible not to consider the amount of          The Dock • Newport Beach
                                                                                                                  PAGE 22
                                              joy received for the price paid. That’s why Studio
    Farmhouse at Roger’s                      fell off the list, and it’s why Pho 101 debuted so
   Gardens • Corona del Mar                                                                            J Zhou Oriental Cuisine • Tustin
                                              high. A luxury Korean feast at Kyung Bok Kung
 Anepalco on Chapman • Orange                                                                                El Farolito • Placentia
                                              might cost $200 while three blocks away at Tacos
        HiroNori • Irvine                                                                              Kang Ho-Dong Baekjeong • Brea
                                              la Calle a taco sells for $3. Both are places I adore.
  Ruth’s Chris Steak House •                                                                             East Borough • Costa Mesa
                                                 Yes, this list is highly personal and subjective
             Irvine                                                                                    Ciao Pasta • San Juan Capistrano
                                              but also methodical. Every year I sample hundreds                   PAGE 23
  Reunion Kitchen • Anaheim                   of restaurants in every corner of the county,
                PAGE 15                       accumulating a wealth of dining experiences that I       Who’s in, who’s out • PAGE 23
                                              mentally compare with the countless memories of
  Omakase by Gino • Santa Ana                 meals past, both locally and around the world.                  Tacos • PAGE 24
      Hendrix • Laguna Niguel                    I continue to find flashes of perfection all over
     Playa Mesa • Costa Mesa                  the place: the tom yum at Thai Avenue in Garden
 Oliver’s Osteria • Laguna Beach              Grove, the sangrita at Solita in Huntington Beach,
     Juliette Kitchen + Bar •                 the cacio e pepe at Oliver’s Osteria in Laguna                     STAFF
          Newport Beach                       Beach …                                                        Brad A. Johnson •
                PAGE 16                          Here’s where, and what, to eat right now.                 RESTAUR ANT CRITIC
        Saline • Laguna Beach                                                                            Vanessa Franko • EDITOR
       Hanna’s • Rancho Santa                 ON THE COVER • Hana re’s steamed tilefish                  Pam Marshak • DESIGNER
              Margarita                       with mochi rice, cherry leaf and cherry blossom.         Mark Rightmire • COVER PHOTO

4 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
SPECIALTY
  TACOS.
   CRAFT
MARGARITAS.

              BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 5
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
Hana re
                 2018 RANKING: 5

1   Atsushi Yokoyama welcomes 10
    to 12 diners a night to a chef’s
    counter hidden behind The Lab
in Costa Mesa in what appears at
first glance to be an abandoned tool
shed with corrugated siding and one
small window. From the moment
you walk through the door, the
Japanese hospitality is warm and
personal, verging on clairvoyant.
   Loosely based on the Japanese
concept of kaiseki, each menu weaves
a tale of textures, temperatures,
techniques and flavors that usually
starts with something cold and
slippery — a chilled, viscous broth
made from squash, for example, or a
salad of translucent baby eels. This is                                                 MARK RIGHTMIRE - STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER
often followed with something even            HANA RE • An assortment of delicacies from Atsushi Yokoyama’s
more exotic and warm, like steamed            Chef’s Omakase: baby squid, sea urchin, lobster, crab flan and salmon roe.
baby conch and goose barnacles, fried
hairy crab or poached cod milt. Each
                                                                                         Sit at the counter and watch how
unique journey culminates with a
spectacular parade of sushi: snow
                                                Marché Modern                            the cooks obsess over something
                                                         2018 RANKING: 4                 as simple as the enfrijolada.
crab, grunt fish, wild sea bream, blue

                                              3
snapper, belt fish, barracuda, gizzard             The best French restaurant            Watch them roast fresh scallops
shad …                                             in California? This is it. Two        in their shells. Feel the heat of the
                                                   years after moving their              wood-fueled grill as the arrachera
• MUST ORDER: Go for the top-tier
                                              glamorous French bistro from               practically catches fire. Beans are
“Chef’s Omakase,” which starts
                                              South Coast Plaza to the Shops at          never just beans. And tacos are
around $180.                                                                             never just tacos.
• 2930 BRISTOL ST., COSTA MESA                Crystal Cove, Florent and Amelia
714-545-2800, HANARESUSHI.COM                 Marneau’s Marché Moderne is still          • MUST ORDER: The smoked sturgeon
                                              one of the toughest reservations in        taco with salsa de chile morita is
                                              the county. The steak au poivre, the       one of the greatest fish tacos ever
                                              moules frites, the stewed rabbit,          conceived.
                                              the escargot… this is quintessential       • 3313 HYLAND AVE., COSTA MESA
                                                                                         714-538-8444, TACOMARIA.COM
    Bourbon Steak                             French cuisine. And the desserts
                                              are always a special treat here.

2  
                 2018 RANKING: 1
                                              • MUST ORDER: Amelia’s Napoleon
       Last year, celebrity chef              dessert, served on Fridays and
       Michael Mina flipped his               Saturdays only. Also, the ever-changing
       one-of-a-kind Stonehill
Tavern into yet another branch
                                              house wines served by the carafe are                     Arc
                                              always an incredible bargain.                        2018 RANKING: 3

                                                                                        5
of his Bourbon Steak chain, but               • 7862 E. PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY,
don’t for a second think of this as                                                           Across America right now,
                                              NEWPORT BEACH, 714-434-7900
a chain restaurant. This branch of            MARCHEMODERNE.NET
                                                                                              wood-fire kitchens are all the
Bourbon Steak is still very much its                                                          rage. Chef Noah Blom’s Arc
own thing. Yes, there’s an emphasis                                                      in Costa Mesa was ground zero for
on steak now — including a truly                                                         that trend. Arc’s kitchen is fueled
massive five-pound ribeye carved                                                         100 percent by wood. No gas. No
tableside — but regulars will                                                            electric appliances. Under the
recognize the same whole duck-fat-                  Taco Maria                           dim glow of crystal chandeliers,
                                                                                         everything on the menu here is
fried chicken and lobster pot pie                       2018 RANKING: 10

                                              4
that were Stonehill staples from                                                         touched by fire and smoke: inch-
                                                    Six years into Carlos Salgado’s      thick-and-foot-long slabs of bacon,
the beginning. This is probably                     rediscovery of Mexican
the only place in the region with                                                        chicken and broccoli casserole
                                                    cuisine, Taco María is               (seriously, try it), crab cakes,
a roving martini cart. Service is             approaching culinary parity with
superb. So, too, the sunset views.                                                       meatballs and whole fish. Calamari
                                              the likes of Pujol or Quintonil in         is cooked on red-hot cast-iron,
•MUST ORDER: When it comes to                 Mexico City. Forget everything you         sending flames to the ceiling1
seafood platters in steakhouses, the          think you know about Mexican
cast iron-broiled crab legs and lobster                                                  • MUST ORDER: The sirloin steak with
                                              food and come here for the four-
                                                                                         duck-fat potatoes is easily the best
here are in a league of their own.            course prix fixe dinner and splurge
                                              for the wine pairings. (Tuesday            steak you will find for $25.
• 1 MONARCH BEACH RESORT
DANA POINT, 949-234-3900                      nights and weekday lunches are à           • 3321 HYLAND AVE., COSTA MESA
BOURBONSTEAK.COM                                                                         49-500-5561, ARCRESTAURANT.COM
                                              la carte.) They fret the details here.

6 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
even the small ones. The martinis
                                                                                  seem bigger than life. Wine prices
                                                                                  are through the roof but you won’t
                                                                                  lack for choices from the best cult
                                                                                  cabernets or legendary Bordeaux.
                                                                                  You might have to skip a mortgage
                                                                                  payment or two to dine here, but
                                                                                  there’s no denying the quality of
                                                                                  beef that’s being served.
                                                                                  • MUST ORDER: The chef’s cut ribeye is
                                                                                  one of the best, thickest and juiciest
                                                                                  steaks you will ever eat.
                                                                                  • 633 ANTON BLVD., COSTA MESA, 714-
                                                                                  546-7405, MASTROSRESTAURANTS.COM

                                                                                         Broadway
                                                                                            2018 RANKING: 16

                                                                                  9      This is the best restaurant
                                                                                         in Laguna Beach. This is
                                                                                         the original joint venture
                                                                                  from the same team that operates
                                                                                  Vaca: chef Amar Santana and
                                                       BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF    frontman Ahmed Labbate. If you’ve
VACA • Dry-aged lamb chops are cooked over the wood-burning grill at              followed Santana’s many television
this tapas bar in Costa Mesa.                                                     appearances, you already know that
                                                                                  this chef likes big flavors, whether
                                                                                  it’s the tamarind glaze on seared
              Vaca                         of sourcing everything as locally
                                           as possible and making literally       sweetbreads or the black olive
           2018 RANKING: 2                 everything from scratch. He            yogurt and pickled peppers served

6
                                                                                  with the grilled octopus.
      On the one hand, Amar                breaks down whole hogs to make
                                           sausages and meatballs. He cures       • MUST ORDER: The smoked pork
      Santana and Ahmed Labbate’s                                                 chop and a bottle of pinot noir. You’ll
      Vaca is the best Spanish tapas       bacon in a smoker beneath the
                                           wood-fired grill. Pizzas are cooked    be hard-pressed to find a better,
bar in Southern California. On
the other hand, it’s also a great          in a wood-fired hearth, just as they   more comprehensive collection of
steakhouse. That’s weird, right?           would be in Naples. The menu is        pinot noir than what Labbate has
Those two things shouldn’t go hand         kept fairly short and laser-focused.   assembled here.
in hand, but miraculously they do,         If you see wood-grilled lamb chops     • 328 GLENNEYRE ST., LAGUNA BEACH
                                                                                  949-715-8234
especially if you wash it all down         on the menu, grab them — they          BROADWAYBYAMARSANTANA.COM
with a frozen gin and tonic. The           might not be there tomorrow. The
house specialty is the 50-day dry-         Italian wine list is so affordably
aged rib-eyes that weigh upwards           priced, you would be stupid to not
of two pounds. The Spanish                 nab a full bottle.
hams are superb, too. If you opt
for paella, the best version is the
                                           • MUST ORDER: Once you try the
                                           pasta carbonara with house-cured
                                                                                         Water Grill
“carne” made with blood sausage,                                                             2018 RANKING: 6

                                                                                  10
                                           bacon, you’ll never eat it anywhere
chorizo, pork belly and duck leg                                                           If you want lobster or crab,
                                           else again.
confit. The Spanish wine list is                                                           check out the massive fish
                                           • 216 N. EL CAMINO REAL
extraordinary.                             SAN CLEMENTE, 949-429-1199                      tanks behind the raw bar
• MUST ORDER: The bikini sandwich          BRICKPIZZERIA.COM                      at Water Grill. These are the best
(tapa of Iberico ham and black truffles)                                          lobsters and crabs money can buy.
delivers the most flavor per cubic inch                                           If you like oysters, Water Grill offers
of any dish in Orange County.                                                     a better selection than anywhere
• 695 TOWN CENTER DRIVE, COSTA MESA                                               else. This Los Angeles-based
714-463-6060, VACARESTAURANT.COM                                                  seafood palace across the street
                                                                                  from South Coast Plaza is the best
                                                 Mastro’s                         place in OC for seafood, period. The
                                                Steakhouse                        whole, wild-caught Dover sole is
                                                                                  simply perfection, bathed in butter
                                                    2018 RANKING: 13
              Brick
                                           8
                                                                                  and filleted table-side.
                                                There’s nothing meek about        • MUST ORDER: Giant appetite?
            2018 RANKING: 7

7
                                                Mastro’s. This old-school         Order a tower of seafood. Need just
     More than any other Italian                steakhouse revels in gluttony     a nibble? Start with the uni toast.
     restaurant chef in the region,        and excess. Dining here isn’t just     • 3300 BRISTOL ST., COSTA MESA
     David Pratt strictly adheres          a meal, it’s an occasion. It’s a       949-208-7060, WATERGRILL.COM
to the Italian concept of slow food,       statement. The steaks are massive,

                                                                                            BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 7
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
Irenia
                2018 RANKING: 11

11     Chef Ryan Garlitos put
       Filipino food in the spotlight
       when he opened his
scrappy but ambitious fine-dining
restaurant and bar a few years
ago in downtown Santa Ana. He’s
elevated the likes of pork adobo
(using pork belly), sinigang (with
black cod) and chicken sa Gata.
The latter, traditionally served
in the Philippines as a homestyle
stew, is instead cooked here like
duck confit (crisped in its own fat)
and served in an ethereal sauce of
lemongrass, coconut milk and chile
oil. FYI, the restaurant no longer
serves lunch.
• MUST ORDER: Bigas mais, which is
corn grits with coconut milk, black-
eyed peas and bitter greens.
• 400 N. BROADWAY, SANTA ANA, 657-
245-3466, IRENIARESTAURANT.COM

          The Ranch
          Restaurant                                                                                BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF
                                              SOLITA • Whole chickens are roasted on the wood-fire rotisserie at

12  
                2018 RANKING: 8               this Mexican restaurant in Huntington Beach.
         You don’t have to wear a
         cowboy hat and ropers to
         dine here, but this is one
                                              where you’ll find one of the best
                                              burgers and fries in town.                            Vine
place where you won’t stand out                                                                  2018 RANKING: 15
                                              • MUST ORDER: Block-cut Akaushi

                                                                                      15
if that’s your chosen outfit. The
Ranch is part country music dance             New York strip steak.                             Sit in the front bar area
                                              • 3334 W. PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY                  if you like it loud. Or
hall, part fine dining chophouse.             NEWPORT BEACH, 949-650-6505
Brothers Michael and David Rossi                                                               ask for a table in the
                                              ARESTAURANTNB.COM                       dining room if you want to have
head up the kitchen, turning out
massive bone-on rib-eyes, secret                                                      a civilized conversation during
off-menu prime rib and some of the                                                    dinner. The latter space is a
fanciest desserts in north county.                                                    welcome throwback, complete with
The bar pours more than 60 wines                                                      tablecloths and candles. Chef Jared
by the glass.                                             Solita                      Cook serves more or less the same
                                                                                      wine country-inspired menu here
• MUST ORDER: Grilled lamb chops                        2018 RANKING: 18

                                              14
                                                                                      as he does at sister concepts Olea
with cannellini bean puree.                            Chef Deborah Schneider         and Ironwood, but this is where it
• 1025 E. BALL ROAD, ANAHEIM                           is a master of Baja-style      all began and the kitchen here still
714-817-4200, THERANCH.COM                             Mexican food. It’s the         feels like it is one step ahead of
                                              mesquite-fired grill and rotisserie     the others. The housemade ravioli
                                              that set this kitchen apart from        are always excellent, as is the
                                              the chef’s fancier restaurant in        chicken schnitzel. The burger and
                                              Newport Beach. Those wood               fries are superb, especially when
      A Restaurant                            fires produce incredible rotisserie
                                              chicken and grilled skirt steak,
                                                                                      paired with a bottle of Mollydooker
                                                                                      Shiraz. The best thing, however,
                2018 RANKING: 20

13
                                              served with some of the best            is often the chef’s ever-changing
         The red leatherette booths,          charro beans outside of Mexico.         daily meat selection, which could
         polished wood paneling               The margaritas are superb, but          be anything from pork shank to
         and series of black-and-             true tequila aficionados drink their    veal neck.
white photographs pay homage                  añejos neat, with a sangrita chaser.    • MUST ORDER: The bone-in ribeye
to the 1920s, when this place first            • MUST ORDER: Mexican-style street     is hugely satisfying, but you might
opened. Yes, this is one of the oldest        corn comes hot off the wood-fire        want to ask for the sauce on the
restaurants in the region, and the            grill and doesn’t get any better than
menu respects that heritage with                                                      side.
                                              this.                                   • 211 N. EL CAMINO REAL,
no-fuss, ice-cold martinis and                • 7631 EDINGER AVE., HUNTINGTON         SAN CLEMENTE, 949-361-2079
classic steaks served on cast-iron            BEACH, 714-894-2792                     VINESANCLEMENTE.COM
skillets. Ask for a bar menu; that’s          SOLITATACOS.COM
8 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
RSM’s Premier Spot for Great Food,
                                         Awesome Craft Cocktails, Live Music & Fun!

                                                 Coming soon to the new
                                                Yorba Linda Town Center!

                                               31431 Santa Margarita Pkwy
                                             Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688
                                                     (949) 888-0072

                                             www.TheBlindPigOC.com

                        RUSTIC BRICK OVEN CUISINE INSPIRED
     SAN CLEMENTE          BY SEASONAL LOCAL HARVEST!
    Thank You Orange County Register!

                                              -David Pratt
                    “I invite you to join us at Brick”.
                    HOURS                                LOCATION
           Monday CLOSED                        216 N. El Camino Real,
Tuesday thru Friday 11:30 AM til 10 PM         San Clemente, CA 92672
      Saturday 11 AM til 10 PM                      (949) 429-1199
       Sunday 11 AM til 9 PM                 www.brickrestaurantgroup.com
                                                              BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 9
Best PLACES TO EAT - BRAD A. JOHNSON'S - Southern California News Group
EnoSteak
             2018 RANKING: 17

16       Years after opening,
         EnoSteak still feels like
         the best-kept secret in
OC. A mixture of romance and
hedonism, Eno is a tiny steakhouse
carved out of a closet-sized space
that used to serve as the Ritz-
Carlton’s wine cellar/bar. Pull some
strings if you have to in order to
reserve the coveted table next to
the fireplace. Your date will thank
you. The steaks and the wine are
consistently superb.
• MUST ORDER: Coffee-rubbed wagyu
New York strip.
• 1 RITZ-CARLTON DRIVE, DANA POINT
949-240-2000, ENOSTEAK.COM

          The Capital
            Grille
                 2018 RANKING: 9

17      Of all the old-school
        steakhouse brands, The
        Capital Grille is still one
of the poshest. Certainly no other
steakhouse can match the Grille’s
                                                                                                  BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF
                                               LSXO • Imperial rolls at this Vietnamese speakeasy hidden inside
                                               Bluegold at Pacific City in Huntington Beach are better than anything
                                               you’ll find in OC’s Little Saigon.
over-the-top country-club aesthetic.
Ascend the stairs into what looks
like Ralph Lauren’s mansion, with
                                               • MUST ORDER: Imperial rolls and
                                               lamb satay noodles.
                                                                                         The Cannery
                                                                                               2018 RANKING: 25

                                                                                     20
oil paintings hanging heavily on               • 21016 PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY,
the walls. The steaks are big and              HUNTINGTON BEACH, 714-374-0038                   By day, The Cannery is
always perfectly grilled. Save room            DINEBLUEGOLD.COM/LSXO                            the ultimate power lunch
for coconut cream pie.                                                                          for movers and shakers
                                                                                     in the medical community. By
• MUST ORDER: Steak au poivre.
                                                                                     night, it’s a popular destination for
• 3333 BRISTOL ST., COSTA MESA
714-432-1140, THECAPITALGRILLE.COM                                                   professional hockey players and
                                                 Pizzeria Mozza                      multigenerational family suppers.
                                                                                     Although this upscale seafood
                                                         2018 RANKING: 27

                                               19
                                                                                     house occupies one of the oldest
                                                        Maybe it’s because they’ve   buildings on the harbor (an old
                                                        scrubbed all references to   tuna cannery), the interiors have
                                                        ousted co-founder Mario      recently been thoroughly refreshed.
                 LSXO                          Batali, or maybe the local crew       Most diners are here for fish, but
              2018 RANKING: 24                 genuinely stepped it up. Either       don’t underestimate the wood-

18
                                               way, Pizzeria Mozza feels fresh       grilled steaks.
         LSXO is a speak-easy-                 and more inspired than ever.
         style restaurant-within-                                                    • MUST ORDER: The crispy rainbow
                                               Nancy Silverton’s pizzas, with her    trout in tomato broth with
         a-restaurant hidden                   unique sourdough-inspired crusts,
inside of Bluegold at Pacific City.                                                  gnocchetti sardi and cotechino
                                               are superb and truly unlike any       sausage might be the best thing you
This “secret” 28-seat parlor is a              others. The fennel sausage pizza
throwback to colonial Saigon, with                                                   eat this year.
                                               is rightfully legendary, as is the
mismatched rattan and leather                                                        • 3010 LAFAYETTE AVE., NEWPORT
                                               chopped salad. The pastas are         BEACH, 949-566-0060
chairs, area rugs and vintage                  terrific, as are the Italian wines.
photographs. The southeast Asian                                                     CANNERYNEWPORT.COM
menu from chef Tin Vuong includes              • MUST ORDER: Roasted caprese salad
better Vietnamese Imperial rolls               and cavatelli with pork neck ragu.
than anything you’ll find in OC’s              • 800 W. COAST HIGHWAY, NEWPORT
                                               BEACH, 949-945-1126
Little Saigon. His Thai-style green            PIZZERIAMOZZA.COM
papaya salad with beef jerky and
chilies is similarly pitch-perfect.

10 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
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                                                                           BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 11
Shunka Sushi
                2018 RANKING: 26

21       Sit at the bar. Order
         omakase (in other words,
         let the chef choose).
You’ll be treated to an education
in Japanese fish: ishidai, kinmei,
hobo, umeiro, tachiuo, akamutsu,
tobiuo, mejina, higesori … No
other sushi bar in Orange County
offers such a vast selection of fish
as what’s regularly available at
Shunka.
• MUST ORDER: Japanese medai
topped with red chili sauce.
• 369 E. 17TH ST., COSTA MESA
949-631-9854

          North Italia

22  
                2018 RANKING: 22
           This is consistently one
           of the toughest same-
           day reservations in the
county. And that’s not surprising.
North is one of the best Italian
restaurants around. The design is
beautiful — a big glass box with
high ceilings, hardwood floors and
a wraparound bar that opens onto
the patio. The pig pizza is loaded                                                     LEONARD ORTIZ - STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER
with crumbled fennel sausage,                  KYUNG BOK KUNG • The cold sashimi salad is one of the offerings
soppressata and spicy pepperoni.               at the Buena Park restaurant, the first U.S. location of a luxury South
The spaghetti and meatballs put                Korean chain.
the competition to shame.
• MUST ORDER: Strozzapreti, a
sort of loosely twisted macaroni,
                                               • MUST ORDER: Get the Signature
                                               Grill Course, an elaborate 12-course           Louie’s by
tossed with grilled chicken and                extravaganza capped with extra-                 the Bay
mushrooms.                                     thick slices of Wagyu, starting at                 NEW FOR 2019
• 2957 MICHELSON DRIVE, IRVINE
949-629-7060
NORTHITALIARESTAURANT.COM
                                               $149 per person.
                                               • 7801 BEACH BLVD., BUENA PARK
                                               714-888-4948
                                               KYUNGBOKKUNGUSA.COM
                                                                                       25        After closing his
                                                                                                 legendary Valentino
                                                                                                 restaurant in Santa
                                                                                       Monica, restaurateur Piero
                                                                                       Selvaggio brought his kitchen team
                                                                                       to OC and joined forces with Ron
                                                                                       Salisbury (El Cholo, The Cannery)
 Kyung Bok Kung                                     Craft House                        to open this glamorous Italian
                                                                                       steakhouse overlooking some of
                  NEW FOR 2019                           2018 RANKING: 38              the biggest yachts in Newport

23         Korean barbecue just
           went next-level. This is
           the first U.S. outpost of
a luxury South Korean chain, and
it is hands down the best (and
                                               24        Here’s something for your
                                                         bucket list: meatloaf.
                                                         Seriously, chef Blake
                                               Mellgren makes the world’s best
                                               meatloaf. He also makes terrific
                                                                                       Harbor. The food is quintessential
                                                                                       California Italian with a nod to the
                                                                                       famous steakhouses of Florence.
                                                                                       Consider the clams in white wine
                                                                                       or the handkerchief pasta in
swankiest) Korean restaurant in                pork ragu with housemade pasta          pesto, either of which would be
SoCal. The service is superb. The              and an insanely delicious fried         a great prelude to a grilled steak
beef is extraordinary. And the                 chicken sandwich. Ask about the         Fiorentina for two.
tabletop grills are fueled by buckets          daily toast, especially if it’s peach   • MUST ORDER: A bottle of Italian
of smokeless charcoal. Seriously,              season.                                 wine. Selvaggio is widely regarded
there’s not a whiff of smoke in the                                                    as the foremost Italian wine expert
                                               • MUST ORDER: The meatloaf is grilled
air, just the dizzying scent of A5             and served with hominy grits. Also,     in the United States.
Miyazaki Wagyu sizzling under                                                          • 2801 W. COAST HIGHWAY, NEWPORT
                                               the best fries for miles.
your nose. Don’t miss the seafood                                                      BEACH, 949-720-1800
                                               • 34094 PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY, DANA
sashimi, which is surprisingly,                POINT, 949-481-7734                     LOUIESNEWPORT.COM
astoundingly good.                             EATATCRAFTHOUSE.COM
12 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
Join us in honoring
 Orange County’s Top
Athletes and Coaches!

                           Say congratulations
                           and support this
                           year’s top athletes
                           and coaches at a
                            special dinner on June
                            12th at the Marconi
                            Automotive Museum.
                             Look for the OC
                             Varsity Athlete of the
                             Year special section
                             on June 14th.

      -PRESENTED BY-

Advertising and event sponsorship opportunities available.
       For more information contact your account
    representative or Katie Ziino at kziino@scng.com.

    Event tickets and tables
available at: ocregister.com/aoty
                                                             BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 13
Pho 101
                 NEW FOR 2019

26         This no-frills Vietnamese
           soup shop across the
           street from Huntington
Beach’s Bella Terra is even better
than the legendary cafe from
which it was spun, Pho 79 in Little
Saigon. This is hands down the
best Vietnamese noodle soup in a
county filled with great Vietnamese
noodle soups.
• MUST ORDER: Oxtail pho, but it’s
not on the menu, exactly. Here’s how
it works. First, order a bowl of pho
without meat. Next, order a side of
oxtail. Voila, oxtail pho.
• 8031 EDINGER AVE., WESTMINSTER
714-375-3330
TRANFAMILYKITCHEN.COM

                     Olea
               2018 RANKING: 28

27        The biggest difference
          between sister restaurants
          Olea and Vine is the noise
level. Olea can get extremely loud,
as the bar tends to get rowdy.
                                                                                                   BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF
                                               OLEA • Roasted sea bass with toasted almonds, green beans, fingerling
Maybe the drinks are a little too              potatoes and charred citrus vinaigrette.
good? Ask for a table in the back
of the dining room or, weather
permitting, the patio. Much of chef            • MUST ORDER: Grass-fed rib-eye cap,
                                               with a side of grilled okra.              TJ’s Woodfire
Jared Cook’s menu is lifted directly
from Vine: the same sticky-                    • 1915 S. COAST HIGHWAY,                      Pizza
                                               LAGUNA BEACH, 949-793-4044                      2018 RANKING: 33
delicious duck wings, the same

                                                                                      30
                                               MAROWOODGRILL.COM
wonderful chicken schnitzel, the                                                                Wood-fired pizza and local
same great burger and fries.                                                                    craft beer. What’s not
• MUST ORDER: A big hunk of sea                                                                 to love? The Neapolitan
bass is a sly update to classic fish                                                  pizzas are as good as it gets. That
amandine.                                                                             said, the New York style pizza
• 2001 WESTCLIFF DRIVE,                              Din Tai Fung                     holds its own. And who knew there
NEWPORT BEACH, 949-287-6807                                2018 RANKING: 30           was such a thing as cracker-thin

                                               29
OLEANEWPORTBEACH.COM                                                                  Chicago style? It’s hard to go wrong
                                                         Although many have           with anything here.
                                                         tried, no other Chinese
                                                         restaurant has come          • MUST ORDER: Neapolitan-style
                                               close to replicating Din Tai Fung’s    Margherita pizza with prosciutto
                                               famous xiao long bao, also known       added.
  Maro Wood Grill                              as Shanghai-style soup dumplings.
                                               The wait for tables can stretch
                                                                                      • 641 CAMINO DE LOS MARES,
                                                                                      SAN CLEMENTE, 949-243-6433
                2018 RANKING: 34                                                      TJWOODFIREPIZZA.COM
                                               upwards of two hours, so put your

28         The dining room, if
           you can call it that,
           of this tiny Argentine
steakhouse seats only about
eight people, max, with most of
                                               name down and go shopping.
                                               They’ll text you when your table is
                                               almost ready.
                                               • MUST ORDER: Shrimp and Kurobuta
                                               pork potstickers.
those seats at the kitchen counter             • SOUTH COAST PLAZA, 3333 BRISTOL
overlooking the wood-fired grill               ST., COSTA MESA, 714-549-3388
and rotisserie. A small outside deck           DINTAIFUNGUSA.COM
accommodates about 20 more.
The basic premise here is steak:
simple, uncomplicated, grass-fed,
wood-grilled steak. The burger is
incredible
14 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
Farmhouse at
 Roger’s Gardens
          2018 RANKING: 36

31      The entire dining room is
        outdoors, so you’ll be at the
        mercy of Mother Nature
when you dine here. They do
provide blankets in winter, though,
which is nice. The restaurant is
hidden amid the lush grounds
of Roger’s Gardens, a sprawling
luxury plant nursery near Fashion
Island. The kitchen serves farm-
fresh salads, house-cured salmon
and steak frites.
• MUST ORDER: House-cured salmon
and a bloody mary.
• 2301 SAN JOAQUIN HILLS ROAD,
CORONA DEL MAR, 949-640-1415
FARMHOUSERG.COM

     Anepalco
    on Chapman

32  
          2018 RANKING: 43
          Daniel Godinez is one
          of the region’s best
          chefs of Mexican food.
He channels Mexico City via the
Southern California barrio. His
modern riffs on pork al pastor, beef
barbacoa and cochinita pibil break                                                            BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF
all the rules. Fans drive for miles     HIRONORI • This small Irvine restaurant serves up some of the best
on weekends to eat chilaquiles here     tonkotsu ramen with chashu pork in the county.
for brunch.
• MUST ORDER: Chicken tinga
enchiladas with mole coloradito and
cotija cheese.                               Ruth’s Chris                      Reunion Kitchen
• 3737 W. CHAPMAN AVE., ORANGE
714-456-9642, ANEPALCO.COM
                                             Steak House                          Anaheim
                                                    NEW FOR 2019                         2018 RANKING: 37

         HiroNori
                                        34         Ruth’s Chris in Irvine
                                                   recently emerged from
                                                   what must have been the
                                        longest, slowest remodel in the
                                        history of restaurant remodels.
                                                                               35        Day or night, this is the
                                                                                        best restaurant in the
                                                                                        hills. The burgers are
                                                                               spectacularly messy, but you’ll be
                                                                               given a warm finger towel so you
          2018 RANKING: 60              It stayed open throughout the          can take a much-needed sponge

33        Good luck getting in.         entire ordeal, but it’s finally done   bath after your conquest. Saturday
          The wait for a table at       and there’s no looking back. The       and Sunday nights are particularly
          this 35-seat craft ramen      restaurant is lighter and brighter     popular thanks to terrific
joint routinely runs beyond two         yet still very quaint, dimly lit       weekends-only prime rib.
hours. But if you stick it out your     and romantic. This feels like a        • MUST ORDER: Rosemary’s chicken
patience will be rewarded with          completely new restaurant. The         and biscuits is a Southern-style
the best ramen in Orange County.        steaks are better than ever, the       triumph.
The pork-bone tonkotsu broth is         plates still sizzling with butter.     • 5775 E. SANTA ANA CANYON ROAD,
infused with so much pork knuckle       • MUST ORDER: Bone-in cowboy rib-      ANAHEIM HILLS, 714-283-1062
collagen that the soup is almost        eye.                                   REUNIONKITCHEN.NET
white, like cream. And the chashu       • 2961 MICHELSON DRIVE, IRVINE
(slow-roasted pork belly) melts on      949-252-8848, RUTHSCHRIS.COM
the tongue like marshmallows.
• MUST ORDER: Tonkotsu ramen. Eat
fast and get out of the way.
• 2222 MICHELSON DRIVE, IRVINE, 949-
536-5800, HIRONORICRAFTRAMEN.COM

                                                                                       BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 15
Omakase
             by Gino
                 NEW FOR 2019

36        Chef/owner, Gino Choi
          runs this charming,
          shoebox-sized sushi joint
that seats only 10 people at a time.
The menu is strictly omakase,
with a set menu that features a
couple of “appetizers” followed by
a board of assorted sashimi, then
a delirium-inducing succession of
nigiri that culminates with a bite of
something sweet, like panna cotta.
Expect about 20 dishes in all. And
while the variety of fish is ordinary,
the quality is pristine.
• MUST ORDER: You are strictly at the
whim of the chef.
• 304 N. MAIN ST., SANTA ANA
657-231-6008
INSTAGRAM.COM/OMAKASEBYGINO

              Hendrix                                                                               BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF
               2018 RANKING: 42
                                               OLIVER’S OSTERIA • Pastas, like squid-ink cappellacci, are

37        The first thing you’ll
         notice as you enter
         Hendrix is the massive
rotisserie oven in the front window.
Chef Rainer Schwarz cooks all
                                               handmade daily at this Laguna Beach Italian restaurant.

                                               is wet and creamy and sweet in all
                                               the right places.                       Juliette Kitchen
manner of meat on those spits:
whole chickens, legs of lamb, rolled
                                               • MUST ORDER: The torta Milanesa              + Bar
                                               is epic.                                         2018 RANKING: 21

                                                                                      40
pork roasts, pork chops, prime                 • 428 E. 17TH ST., COSTA MESA
rib — all of it dripping onto a pile           949-287-5292, PLAYAMESA.COM                       Have you ever just wanted
of fingerling potatoes roasting                                                                  a plate of charcuterie and
underneath.                                                                                      a glass of wine? This little
• MUST ORDER: Anything from the                                                       American bistro is a great place
rotisserie, obviously. Perhaps less                                                   for that. But it’s also a good place
obvious is the zucchini cornbread,                                                    to be a glutton. Stay away from
                                                                                      the scales after eating the massive
which is incredible.
• 32431 STREET OF THE GOLDEN
                                                 Oliver’s Osteria                     braised pork shank. Once you start
                                                          NEW FOR 2019                eating it, there’s no way to stop. It

                                               39
LANTERN, LAGUNA NIGUEL
949-248-1912 HENDRIXOC.COM                                 Quaint, casual and         will surely add five pounds. Fair
                                                          charming, few Italian       warning: Meats here are heavily
                                                          restaurants capture the     sauced. Save room for salted
                                               true spirit of Italy as effortlessly   caramel pudding.
                                               as this new cafe in Laguna Beach.      • MUST ORDER: Grilled prawns with
                                               The well-edited menu offers only a     lemon chili butter.
         Playa Mesa                            handful of options, all of which are
                                               good: blissfully simple spaghetti,
                                                                                      • 1000 BRISTOL ST., NEWPORT BEACH
                                                                                      949-752-5854, JULIETTENB.COM
                 NEW FOR 2019

38
                                               braised octopus so tender you can
          This is one of the best              cut it with a spoon, grilled lamb
          Mexican restaurants to               chops dressed with little more
          open in years, with a                than olive oil or heirloom tomatoes
breezy indoor/outdoor vibe and a               with burrata and burnt cucumber
serious bar. The chef came from                gazpacho.
Taco María. He makes a salsa with              • MUST ORDER: The cacio e pepe isn’t
morita chilies that’s hotter than              always on the menu but is usually
the Earth’s core. Start with the               available if you ask.
totopos en mole (fried tortilla chips          • 853 LAGUNA CANYON ROAD, LAGUNA
drenched in mole poblano). The                 BEACH, 949-715-0261
menudo is fantastic. The tres leches           OLIVERSOSTERIA.COM

16 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
style dough around. Most of the
                                                                             dining room is actually outside in
                                                                             the backyard. The oven is fueled
                                                                             by wood. The marinara pizza
                                                                             is perfection. So, too, the pizza
                                                                             topped with blue cheese and honey.
                                                                             The wine selection is limited, so
                                                                             you might consider BYOB.
                                                                             • MUST ORDER: Spicy salami pizza
                                                                             with ricotta, smoked mozzarella,
                                                                             green olives and pickled chilies.
                                                                             • 2145 PLACENTIA AVE., COSTA MESA
                                                                             949-873-5853, 2145EAT.COM

                                                                                          Chaak
                                                                                          NEW FOR 2019

                                                                             44         The team behind
                                                                                        Gabbi’s has opened one
                                                                                        of the most original
                                                                             Mexican restaurants to come
                                                                             along in years. The ceiling slides
                                                                             away to let the stars shine in. The
                                                                             rustic kitchen draws inspiration
                                                                             from the Yucatán. The cochinita
                                                                             pibil (smoked, pulled pork) is
                                                                             luscious and aphrodisiacal. So is
                                                                             the almond-wood-roasted whole
                                                                             fish. The wine list offers several
                                                   BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF   excellent Mexican wines, too.
SALINE • Oysters are served with absinthe jelly and mignonette at this       • MUST ORDER: Whole branzino
restaurant tucked inside the Hotel Joaquin.                                  rubbed with achiote paste and
                                                                             roasted in the wood-fired hearth.
                                                                             • 215 EL CAMINO REAL, TUSTIN, 657-
           Saline                              Hanna’s                       699-3019, CHAAKKITCHEN.COM.
           NEW FOR 2019                        2018 RANKING: 45

41       In order to eat at Saline,
        you’ll first need to book
        a room. The restaurant
is open only to overnight guests
of the Hotel Joaquin. The dining
                                      42          Unequivocally the best
                                                 restaurant in Rancho
                                                 Santa Margarita and
                                      surrounding communities, Hanna’s
                                      is one part serious steakhouse, one
                                                                                         Mr. G’S
                                                                                        2018 RANKING:47

                                                                             45
room is confined to a narrow          part neighborhood sports bar. The
outdoor terrace with fewer than 30    bar here is always packed on game                  The G stands for
seats overlooking a small courtyard   days, and it’s always date night in               Giuseppe Accardi, the
with views of the ocean. Breakfast,   the dining room. The steaks are                   dapper owner of this
lunch, dinner, you’ll want to take    USDA Prime. The fries are real.        Italianesque bistro, which is easily
advantage of every meal possible      The wine list, deep.                   the most glamorous place to
before checking out. Slurp oysters    • MUST ORDER: Aside from the steaks,   dine on Balboa Island. The vibe
at sunset. Enjoy octopus carpaccio    the only true requisite is the wedge   is chic but casual. The kitchen
and house-cured salmon for a          salad, a towering beauty meant to      excels at pasta. The cacio e pepe is
candlelit supper. Wake up to          be shared.                             everything a Roman would hope
the perfect croque-monsieur at        • 22195 EL PASEO, RANCHO SANTA
                                                                             it to be. The rigatoni bolognese
breakfast.                            MARGARITA, 949-709-2300                will make you think there’s an
• MUST ORDER: Seared scallops in      HANNASPRIMESTEAK.COM                   Italian granny in the kitchen.
coconut cream with forbidden rice.                                           Great pastas might sound like
• 985 N. COAST HIGHWAY., LAGUNA                                              strange bedfellows for a big, fat
BEACH, 949-494-5294                                                          hamburger, but if you go the latter
HOTELJOAQUIN.COM                                                             route you’ll be just as happy.
                                             2145 Pizza                      • MUST ORDER: The pasta carbonara
                                                2018 RANKING: 56             is surprisingly light and elegant.

                                      43
                                                                             • 305 MARINE AVE., NEWPORT BEACH
                                              A vintage auto garage          949-675-6193, MRGSBISTRO.COM
                                              has been recycled into an
                                              indoor/outdoor pizzeria
                                      with some of the finest Neapolitan-

                                                                                      BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 17
Mayor’s Table
                 NEW FOR 2019

46          The paradigm-shifting
            cheeseburger that’s
            served at lunchtime (or
on the bar menu at night) at this
upscale diner inside the Lido House
hotel forever settles the eternal
lettuce vs. no lettuce burger debate.
It’s a perfect mound of freshly
ground beef, cheddar cheese and
a sesame seed bun with very
little else. Want something more
elaborate? The beet salad and the
charbroiled crab demand attention.
Steaks are very good, too.
• MUST ORDER: Clearly the burger,
which is served with perfect hand-cut,
twice-cooked fries.
• 3300 NEWPORT BLVD.,
NEWPORT BEACH, 949-524-8500
LIDOHOUSEHOTEL.COM

                    CdM                                                                             BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF
                  NEW FOR 2019

47
                                               MAYOR’S TABLE • A cheeseburger and fries are a study in simplicity
           Leather lounge chairs and           at this Newport Beach restaurant in the Lido House hotel.
          plush velvet banquettes
          create a comfy country
club vibe for artisanal cocktails              upstairs instead. The small upstairs   • MUST ORDER: The Iberico pork
and modern American tavern                     dining room is elegant and tranquil    secreto is like a cross between steak
food — raw oysters, fried ham,                 and the service is exponentially       and bacon.
mushrooms and peas, dry-aged                   better as well. Either way, the        • 3408 VIA OPORTO, SUITE 103,
steaks — from the same team                    steaks are always excellent.           NEWPORT BEACH, 949-529-2784
behind A Restaurant. Start with                • MUST ORDER: The Lord Stanley cut     LIDOBOTTLEWORKS.COM
the bread and butter. That might               AA5 Wagyu tomahawk rib-eye is one
sound obvious, but the bread isn’t             of the best steaks money can buy.
free. Listed among the appetizers,             • 1464 S. COAST HIGHWAY,
the Parker House rolls are baked to            LAGUNA BEACH, 949-715-9881
order and served piping hot from               SELANNESTEAKTAVERN.COM
the oven with whipped beef tallow.                                                             Meizhou
• MUST ORDER: Pork (two ways) and
beans.                                                                                         Dongpo
                                                                                                2018 RANKING: 39
• 2325 E. COAST HIGHWAY, CORONA DEL

                                                                                      50
MAR, 949-287-6600
                                                                                                 As this upscale Chinese
CDMRESTAURANT.COM
                                                    Lido Bottle                                  chain settles into a
                                                      Works                                      groove, it has lost some
                                                                                      of its original luster. Service has
                                                         NEW FOR 2019

                                               49
                                                                                      gotten a little sloppy but the (mostly
                                                          Lido Bottle Works           Sichuan) food is as good as ever:
                                                          overlooks the boardwalk     green chili-laden country style
    Selanne Steak                                         at Lido Marina Village      pork, spicy wontons, crispy Peking
       Tavern                                  on Newport Harbor. The windows
                                               are always pushed open to let the
                                                                                      duck and the best dandan noodles
                                                                                      in OC.
               2018 RANKING: 55

48
                                               salty air blow through, so you’ll      • MUST ORDER: Royal hot pot, a boiling
          The highly competitive               want to bring a jacket. Lunch and      cauldron of radioactive uranium filled
          singles scene in the                 brunch are relaxed and leisurely       with shrimp, beef, mushrooms, quail
          bar of this steakhouse               while dinner is romantic. Chef Amy     eggs, lotus root and Spam.
is always festive and the many                 Lebrun makes a masterful beet          • 15363 CULVER DRIVE, IRVINE
televisions there are always tuned             salad and does incredible things       949-433-5686
to sports. That’s where the hostess            with chorizo and eggs at brunch.
will attempt to seat you, but pull             The bar pours interesting wines
whatever strings you can to sit                and beers.

18 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
roasted branzino, braised short
                                                                                 ribs. If you eat avocado toast only
                                                                                 once this year, do it here.
                                                                                 • MUST ORDER: The apple pie is better
                                                                                 than your grandmother’s.
                                                                                 • 1106 S. COAST HIGHWAY., LAGUNA
                                                                                 BEACH, 800-223-3309
                                                                                 THERANCHLB.COM

                                                                                        Javier’s
                                                                                      Crystal Cove
                                                                                            2019 RANKING: 14

                                                                                 54        Perched above the
                                                                                           highway at the Crystal
                                                                                           Cove Promenade, Javier’s
                                                                                 conveys the breezy elegance and
                                                                                 laid-back luxury of a five-star
                                                                                 Mexican resort. Lunch is relaxing
                                                                                 while dinner is a scene. The tequila
                                                                                 selection is encyclopedic, and the
                                                                                 margaritas always strong. You
                                                                                 can’t go wrong with any of the
                                                                                 enchiladas, the crispy beef taco,
                                       LEONARD ORTIZ - STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER        shrimp quesadilla, octopus ceviche
OCEAN AT MAIN • Prawn and potato soup is assembled at the table                  or Acapulco-style shrimp cocktail.
at this Laguna Beach restaurant.                                                 • MUST ORDER: Carnitas are exquisite,
                                                                                 a mound of tender, fat-laden meat
                                                                                 topped with a single, hulking pork rib.
   Ocean at Main                       beef salad, crab fried rice, papaya
                                       salad, pad thai, pad see ew, rad          • 7832 E. PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY
           NEW FOR 2019                nah, nam salad… all of it excellent.      NEWPORT BEACH, 949-494-1239

51
                                                                                 JAVIERS-CANTINA.COM
        Chef Craig Strong left his     When they say spicy, they mean
        longtime post at the ultra-    it. Everything here tastes just like
        posh Studio at the Montage     it does in Thailand, and their tom
Laguna Beach to open his own           kha gai (hot sour coconut chicken
place in the heart of downtown.        soup) is the best of its genre locally.
The indoor/outdoor vibe is laid-
back yet glamorous. The chef
                                        • MUST ORDER: The insanely                       Peking
has always excelled at fancy fish
                                       delicious fishcakes are soft and
                                       supple and fragrant of freshly                  Restaurant
dishes, and now he’s learned to                                                            2018 RANKING: 67

                                                                                 55
                                       pounded red curry paste.
make a pretty good pizza, too.          • 9872 WESTMINSTER AVE. (BACKSIDE                   The Beijing-inspired
The restaurant came with a pizza       OF MALL OF FORTUNE), GARDEN GROVE,                   menu is vast at this
oven, so why not? The Dungeness        714-858-1693, CHADATHAIGG.COM                        decades-old restaurant,
crab cavatelli is ethereal. So, too,                                             much of it scribbled only in
the oxtail risotto. And they’ve                                                  Chinese. Don’t stress when
curated the perfect wine list for                                                owner Lili Shen takes control
millionaires.                                                                    and changes your order because
• MUST ORDER: The delicious beet                                                 she knows better than you. Do
salad with an egg yolk playfully
mimics beef tartare.                             Harvest                         what she says. She’ll probably
                                                                                 recommend the beef-and-scallion
• 222 OCEAN AVE., LAGUNA BEACH                    2018 RANKING: 54               pancake, country-style chicken

                                       53
949-715-3870, OCEANATMAIN.COM                    The Ranch resort is one         and walnut shrimp. If you’re lucky
                                                 of Laguna Beach’s best-         she’ll slip in some mustard greens
                                                 kept secrets, a charming        with pork.
                                       boutique hotel and nine-hole              • MUST ORDER: Pan-fried dumplings.
                                       golf course discreetly nestled in         • 8566 WESTMINSTER BLVD.,
      Chada Thai                       a picturesque canyon across the
                                       street from the beach. The hilltop
                                                                                 WESTMINSTER, 714-893-3020

52  
          2018 RANKING: 61
                                       dining room is as beautiful as
          A television on the back     it is comfortable, with a roaring
          wall plays a slideshow of    fireplace, lots of leather and velvet
          every dish on the menu.      and a stunning view. If there’s a
Watch it too long and you’ll end up    theme to the menu, it’s familiarity:
ordering one of everything: spicy      steak tartare, steamed mussels,

                                                                                         BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 19
Tacos la Calle
                 NEW FOR 2019

56          This is one of the best
           new taquerias to come
           along in years. The tacos
are truly fantastic, especially the
suadero. But so are the mulitas,
which are like quesadillas made
with corn tortillas. You’ll need
extra napkins because the food
here can be really greasy, but it’s
the sort of grease that you’ll be
happy to lick from your fingers.
And as long as you’re getting your
hands and face messy, the street
corn on the cob is delicious, too.
• MUST ORDER: Start with the suadero
tacos. Everything else is just a
bonus.
• 8600 BEACH BLVD., BUENA PARK
714-236-5211, TACOSLACALLE.COM

   Garlic & Chives
               2018 RANKING: 63

57         A single order of garlic
          crab contains at least two
          large fistfuls of garlic,
which will trail you everywhere for
the next couple of days. This wildly
                                                                                                   BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF
                                               GARLIC & CHIVES • Pomelo salad with shrimp and garlic is a
                                               signature dish at this restaurant at Garden Grove’s Mall of Fortune.

                                               service rarely found anymore. The
popular pan-Asian-but-mostly-
Vietnamese restaurant is always                steaks are good, though, especially        Thai Avenue
packed. On weekends the wait for               the simple steak frites.                          NEW FOR 2019

                                                                                     60
a table can stretch toward two                 • MUST ORDER: Maryland-style crab                 This kitchen focuses
hours, and the dining room teeters             cake (dinner only) formed with big               on the regional seafood
on the verge of riot. The garlic               chunks of crab and barely breaded.               of the Gulf of Thailand,
noodles with prawns, the sticky                • 18420 VON KARMAN AVE., IRVINE        and nowhere does that come into
chili chicken wings, the crispy rice           949-477-4810, DAVIOS.COM/IRV           sharper focus than when the chefs
in stone pot, the Sichuan-inspired                                                    do something, anything, with
cumin lamb, the Thai-style papaya                                                     freshwater prawns. Simply grilled,
salad … it’s all worth the wait.                                                      the prawns are incredible. Served
• MUST ORDER: Pomelo salad with                                                       atop citrusy pad thai, the prawns
pork belly, shrimp and bird’s eye                                                     are a revelation. Bobbing in a
chilies.                                        Tupelo Junction                       cauldron of tom yum, they will
• 9892 WESTMINSTER AVE., GARDEN                          2018 RANKING: 57             blow your mind. Also great is the

                                               59
GROVE, 714-591-5196                                                                   charred pork jowl (kor moo yang)
GARLICANDCHIVES.COM
                                                         In a neighborhood where      and grilled Thai sausages.
                                                         brunch is a competitive
                                                         sport, Tupelo Junction        • MUST ORDER: Tom yum goong
                                               scores a lot of points. A crab         with freshwater prawns. Seriously,
                                               claw protrudes from the bloody         you won’t be able to eat tom yum
                                               mary. The waffles are made from        anywhere else after this.
                                                                                      • 10130 GARDEN GROVE BLVD., GARDEN
Davio’s Northern                               pumpkins and oatmeal and topped
                                               with caramelized bananas. Fresh-       GROVE, 657-233-5859
    Italian                                    from-the-oven biscuits come with
  Steakhouse                                   homemade jam. At dinnertime, it’s
                                               all about the trout.
                  NEW FOR 2019

58
                                               • MUST ORDER: Fried chicken and
           What sets this new                  cornbread salad.
           Italian steakhouse                  • 508 29TH ST., NEWPORT BEACH
           apart from all the other            49-877-0280, TUPELOJUNCTION.COM
steakhouses and trattorias is not
their steaks or their pastas but a
level of old-fashioned customer

20 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
patio, and you’ll find yourself in
                                                                             a romantic Old World trattoria
                                                                             serving linguine and clams and
                                                                             veal Milanese. Inside, the two
                                                                             spaces are connected by a central
                                                                             bar.
                                                                             • MUST ORDER: Ask about the off-
                                                                             menu veal chop, always available but
                                                                             in limited supply.
                                                                             • 1080 BAYSIDE DRIVE, NEWPORT
                                                                             BEACH, 949-644-4220, SAPORINB.COM

                                                                                   El Coyotito
                                                                                          NEW FOR 2019

                                                                             64        With a squeaky
                                                                                       screen door, scant air-
                                                                                       conditioning and only
                                                                             about 20 seats, this Mexican
                                                                             cafe has been flying under the
                                                                             radar for years. The menu is vast:
                                                                             tacos, sopes, gorditas, tostadas,
                                                                             huaraches, tortas, burritos,
                                                                             enchiladas, ceviches and five-pound
                                                                             stone molcajetes overflowing with
                                                                             all kinds of meat.
                                                                             • MUST ORDER: Langoustines a la
                                                                             plancha and a scratch Michelada.
                                                                             • 32141 ALIPAZ ST., SAN JUAN
                                      CINDY YAMANAKA - STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER    CAPISTRANO, 949-496-9439
DEL FRISCO’S GRILLE • Prime rib is served only on Friday and                 ELCOYOTITOMEXICANRESTAURANT.COM
Saturday nights at Del Frisco’s Grille at the Irvine Spectrum.

      Del Frisco’s                    the same as the original — fresh
                                      oysters, steamed mussels, hand-cut
         Grille                       pomme frites, beef tartare, three              Manpuku
          2018 RANKING: 46            dozen Belgium beers — the kitchen                 2018 RANKING: 19

61                                                                           65
                                      is clearly more aroused. The retro              The one thing above all
         This restaurant serves       design of the indoor/outdoor
         prime rib on Friday and                                                      else that used to separate
                                      atmosphere feels fresh and vibrant,             this Japanese barbecue
         Saturday nights only, so     a new anchor for San Clemente’s
you’ll want to mark the calendar                                             house from all the others was its
                                      Avenida Del Mar.                       use of charcoal instead of gas.
for that. The steaks are top-notch,
                                      • MUST ORDER: Large pot of mussels     That changed last year. No more
too, and the double cheeseburger is
                                      steamed with Hoegaarden beer and       charcoal. The tabletop grills are
what an In-N-Out burger dreams of
being when it grows up. Save room     cream, with a side of frites.          now fueled exclusively by gas. The
for coconut cream pie.                • 218 AVENIDA DEL MAR, SAN             meat quality here is still higher
                                      CLEMENTE, 949-218-8489                 than most of the competition,
• MUST ORDER: The prime New York      BRUSSELSBISTRO.COM
strip never disappoints.                                                     though. And the atmosphere still
• 772 SPECTRUM CENTER                                                        the most romantic.
DRIVE, IRVINE, 949-341-0376                                                  • MUST ORDER: Prime outside skirt
DELFRISCOSGRILLE.COM                                                         steak with spicy miso glaze.
                                                                             • 891 BAKER ST., COSTA MESA
                                               Sapori                        714-708-3290, MANPUKUUS.COM

                                             Ristorante
         Brussels                               2018 RANKING: 53

          Bistro
                                      63          Sapori is actually two
                                                 restaurants in one. Enter

62  
           NEW FOR 2019
                                                 through the door on
          This new offshoot of        the left, and you’ll find a modern
         the 15-year-old Brussels     Neapolitan-style pizzeria and
         Bistro in Laguna Beach       one of the best marinara pizzas
exudes the excitement of youth.       outside of Naples. Enter to the
While the menu reads more or less     right, via the bougainvillea-covered
                                                                                     BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 21
Southern Spice
                  NEW FOR 2019

66         Maddeningly chaotic,
          this no-frills counter-
          service cafe captures the
spirit and taste of India better than
any other restaurant in Orange
County. All the familiar classics
— tandoori chicken, tikka masala,
lamb vindaloo, butter chicken,
etc. — are better here than what
you’ve been eating elsewhere. And
all those other dishes that you’ve
never heard of, like gutti vankaya
(stuffed eggplant) and Chettinad
chicken pepper fry are even better
than that.
• MUST ORDER: Chettinad lamb curry.
• 3850 BARRANCA PARKWAY, IRVINE
949-679-6914
SOUTHERNSPICEIRVINE.COM

          Sushi Roku
               2018 RANKING: 44

67         This is the sixth branch
          of a luxury sushi chain
          that started in L.A. more
than a decade ago. For American-
style sushi rolls, it doesn’t get any
                                                                                                    BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF
                                               ZAIT & ZAATAR • This Lebanese restaurant in Anaheim serves
                                               outstanding sheesh tawook — garlicky chicken skewers.

better than the tuna-jalapeño roll
here. If straight-up raw fish is more
                                               • MUST ORDER: Sheesh tawook,
                                               grilled chicken skewers marinated
                                                                                               The Dock
your thing, you’ll love the new-                                                                  NEW FOR 2019
                                               in garlic and yogurt.

                                                                                       70
style sashimi. Start with a round              • 510 N. BROOKHURST ST., ANAHEIM                  The Dock has endured
of miso-glazed shrimp tempura for              714-991-9996, ZAITANDZAATAR.COM                   ups and downs over the
the table.                                                                                       years, and it is currently
• MUST ORDER: Fluke sashimi with                                                       riding another high. This charming
kumquats and yuzu vinaigrette.                                                         outdoor restaurant overlooks a
• FASHION ISLAND, 327 NEWPORT                                                          small channel on Newport Harbor.
CENTER DRIVE, NEWPORT BEACH                                                            Regulars arrive by Duffy and enter
949-706-3622, INNOVATIVEDINING.COM                     Eddie V’s                       the dining room directly from the
                                                       Wildfish                        dock. If you don’t have a boat, you
                                                                                       can use the front door instead.
                                                          NEW FOR 2019

                                               69
                                                                                       Brunch is the best time to see and
                                                           The name recently           be seen here, which is when the
                                                          changed from Wildfish        kitchen excels at eggs Benedict and
       Zait & Zaatar                                      Grille to Eddie V’s
                                               Wildfish, but this is still the same
                                                                                       brioche French toast. The wine list
                  NEW FOR 2O19                                                         is deep and worthy of exploration,
                                               steak and seafood house it’s always     even at 11 a.m.

68
          The air inside Zait                  been, serving classic lobster bisque,
                                                                                       • MUST ORDER: House-cured gravlax
          & Zaatar smells                      crab chowder, roasted branzino and      with crispy latkes and chive cream.
          magnificent. It smells               a terrific USDA Prime rib-eye. The
                                                                                       • 2816 LAFAYETTE AVE., NEWPORT
          of Lebanese flatbreads               bar can get rowdy if there’s a game     BEACH, 949-673-3625
baking in the old brick oven.                  on TV, so ask for a table in the back   DINEATTHEDOCK.COM
It smells of beef and chicken                  corner.
shawarma slowly roasting on the                 • MUST ORDER: The Maryland-style
vertical spits and of kafta kabobs             crab cake is as good as it gets.
sizzling on the circular griddle. It’s         • 370 BISON AVE., NEWPORT BEACH
always hard to find a seat inside              949-720-9925, EDDIEV.COM
because the dining room holds no
more than about 12 people at a
time, but there’s usually an open
spot on the patio.

22 • BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT
• MUST ORDER: Marinated boneless
                                                                                             short rib and the premium pork
                                                                                             jowl.
                                                                                             • 5171 BEACH BLVD., BUENA PARK
                                                                                             714-739-9678

                                                                                                  East Borough
                                                                                                            NEW FOR 2019

                                                                                             74         Believe it or not, you
                                                                                                       won’t find Orange
                                                                                                       County’s best banh mi
                                                                                             sandwich in Little Saigon. It’s in
                                                                                             Costa Mesa at The Camp’s East
                                                                                             Borough, an outdoor food shack
                                                                                             with fewer than 20 seats tucked
                                                                                             beneath what looks like an old shed
                                                               BRAD A. JOHNSON - STAFF       overtaken by wisteria. The tables
EAST BOROUGH • You’ll find this restaurant, which serves the best                            are stocked with fresh bird’s eye
Vietnames banh mi sandwiches in the county, tucked into The Camp in                          chilies. There’s no air-conditioning,
Costa Mesa.                                                                                  but the beer is cold. If you like
                                                                                             sweet breakfasts, consider the kaya
  J Zhou Oriental                               40 years. Crispy tacos are stuffed
                                                with ground- beef. The enchiladas            toast.
      Cuisine                                   are covered with yellow cheese. And          • MUST ORDER: Banh mi with star
                                                                                             anise-braised pork belly.
            2018 RANKING: 69                    the frozen margaritas are always

71
                                                strong. Warning: If the waitress             • 2937 BRISTOL ST., COSTA MESA
          This dizzyingly splashy               says your plate is hot, don’t touch it.      714-641-5010, EAST-BOROUGH.COM
         Chinese restaurant puts the            • MUST ORDER: : Enchiladas rancheras
         glamor in dim sum. All the             with carnitas.
usual stuff is here: shrimp shumai,             • 201 S. BRADFORD AVE., PLACENTIA
barbecue pork bao, chicken feet,                714-993-7880, ELFAROLITOMEX.COM
sticky rice in lotus leaves, etc. At
dinnertime, the menu shifts into                                                                      Ciao Pasta
ultra-luxe banquet mode, offering                                                                           NEW FOR 2019
whole barbecued pigs or whole
black chickens or Peking ducks,
some of which must be ordered
days in advance.
• MUST ORDER: The beef cheong fun
                                                   Kang Ho-Dong
                                                    Baekjeong
                                                                                             75         A sleek, modern
                                                                                                       makeover has
                                                                                                       transformed this formerly
                                                                                             frumpy old trattoria into one of
                                                                                             the sexiest restaurants in South
(steamed rice paper roll) is superb.                       2018 RANKING:49                   County. The diavola pizza is
• 2601 PARK AVE., TUSTIN, 714-258-
8833, JZHOUORIENTALCUISINE.COM
                                                73        The parent company
                                                          that owns this Korean
                                                          barbecue house is the
                                                same company that supplies most
                                                other Korean barbecue restaurants
                                                                                             excellent. The roasted halibut is a
                                                                                             lesson in simplicity. But the real
                                                                                             stars are the pastas: bubbling-hot
                                                                                             lasagna, tagliatelle with lemon
                                                                                             and artichokes, pappardelle with
                                                with their meat, so you can                  porcini mushrooms, baked rotelle
        El Farolito                             imagine who gets first dibs on the
                                                good stuff. And while there are
                                                                                             stuffed with ham.
                                                                                             • MUST ORDER: Squid ink tagliolini
           2018 RANKING: 68

72  
                                                other branches of this chain, the            with fresh clams and cherry
           El Farolito has been the             Buena Park outpost is consistently           tomatoes.
          reigning king of Cal-Mex              the best. Although everyone’s here           • 31661 CAMINO CAPISTRANO, SAN
          combination plates — the              for barbecue, shouldn’t overlook the         JUAN CAPISTRANO, 949-496-5002
sloppier the better — for more than             bibimbap.                                    CIAOPASTA.NET

     WHO’S IN, WHO’S OUT                        • Ruth’s Chris                OUT          • Hue Oi                  • Ramos House Café
            IN           • El Coyotito          Steak House           • 370 Common         • Ironwood                • Studio
  • Brussels Bistro      • Kyung Bok Kung       • Saline              • Adya               • Jimmy’s Famous          • The Blind Pig
  • CdM                  • Lido Bottle Works    • Southern Spice      • American Dream     American Tavern           • The Cellar
  • Chaak                • Louie’s by the Bay   • Tacos la Calle      • Bandera            • Kabob Republic          • The Loft
  • Ciao Pasta           • Ocean at Main        • Thai Avenue         • Bangkok Avenue     • Leatherby’s Cafe        • The Quiet Woman
  • Davio’s Northern     • Oliver’s Osteria     • The Dock            • Cha Cha’s Latin    Rouge                     • Watermarc
  Italian Steakhouse     • Omakase by Gino      • The Mayor’s Table   Kitchen              • Los Sanchez             • Wreckless
  • East Borough         • Pho 101              • Zait & Zaitar       • Fleming’s          • Ootoro Sushi
  • Eddie V’s Wildfish   • Playa Mesa                                 • Haidilao Hot Pot   • Pour Vida

                                                                                                       BRAD A. JOHNSON’S 75 BEST PLACES TO EAT • 23
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