Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club

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Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
Perspectives                                                                        Volume 32 • Issue 2 Summer 2020

       COVID-19 Effects on Rides and Races
                                                            Kevin Bessett

T
       he last five months have been        The COVID era has led to significant       may happen in early August. The
       nothing short of surreal, strange,   changes in how the club conducts           Wednesday evening ride is not likely
       weird, scary, and thought            rides. The first change is that you        to happen this year.
provoking. The world has more               must pre-register online for each ride.
than enough problems as it is, and          This is for tracking purposes and I        On the racing side, TTs may start in
throwing a pandemic onto the heap of        will delete the information collected      the second half of July, but it is not
challenges is not helping matters.          after 30 days. You will find the           looking promising for any practice
                                            details in the ride announcement           crits this year.
Here in Vermont we are fortunate            on the Listserv. You must practice
to have the virus mostly under              distancing of at least six feet before,    Please remember that rides/events
control (let’s all try to keep it that      during, and after rides. Lastly, we        are dependent on two factors:
way) and some outdoor activities            ask that you carry a face mask or          Volunteers and the State’s COVID-19
around the state have started up.           covering on the ride. There are            guidance. Some volunteers may
Included in this are VP and touring         several reasons for this. Some stores      understandably feel uneasy about
rides. Getting to this point required       require masks, and if you have a           the possible exposure to the virus,
a surprising amount of work (tons of        mechanical and need to get a ride          and if replacements are not located,
emails, research, website updates,          back to your car, the driver will likely   the club will cancel the event. The
etc.). Thanks to all who helped with        appreciate you wearing a mask.             same will happen if the State puts the
that--I cannot imagine what it has                                                     kibosh on allowing the gathering of
been like for some business owners          As for other club rides, the only          groups.
and managers as they restart their          other one likely to start is the
businesses.                                 Tuesday evening training ride. That        Be healthy!   

                                                                                                     Please
                                                                                                 remember that
                                                                                                rides/events are
                                                                                               dependent on two
                                                                                              factors: Volunteers
                                                                                                 and the State’s
                                                                                                   COVID-19
                                                                                                   guidance.
                                                                                                                                PHOTO CREDIT: TOM BROIDO
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
Out There on the Road
                                                         Kevin Bessett

R
         oad riding can lead to some       right (three mph or less). If you are             the bike. On an empty street, create
         great experiences, especially     going faster and a car suddenly pulls             virtual hazards and steer around
         on new-to-you roads, but          to the right, you’re screwed. I have              them, or try stopping quickly to see
being on the road comes with some          seen it happen. If only five to eight             what that feels like (use both brakes
inherent risk. The key thing to know       cars are backed up, merge into the                because the front brake provides up
and remember is that you have a large      queue. Drivers will respect you for               to 75% of braking power). Start out
say in mitigating those risks. I’d like    this. Use a hand signal first!                    with light maneuvers or braking, and
to share some ideas on doing just                                                            work your way up to more abrupt
that. I hope you them helpful. Even        Make friends! Waive to drivers who                avoidance/stopping. When braking
seasoned cyclists can use reminders.       give you a break. When you hear/see               hard, move your rump to the very back
                                           a vehicle behind you, visibly move                of the seat and lower the torso. This
Crucial items that may save your life:     right (if safe to do so), even if only six        changes your center of gravity and will
A mirror and front/rear flashers (at       inches. This shows the driver that you            greatly reduce the chance of going
a minimum, have a rear one with a          are sharing the road, and many will               over the bars (i.e., flipping).
bright pulse).                             return the favor. It really works!
                                                                                             Cornering. Corners at speed tend
Think safety. A helmet and eye             Take the lane. If you are near the                to scare people and many crashes
protection are must haves. Avoid           speed limit, take the lane. Doing so              happen when cornering. For more
heavily travelled roads, especially        gives you the greatest visibility, and            confidence, try this: (1) First, complete
those with little shoulder. Use hand       preserves you a spot in the lane. This            braking before entering the corner
signals, stop at stop signs/lights,        is very important when going downhill             (braking in corners can cause
share the road, and learn to recognize     – image going 35 mph and a vehicle                crashes); (2) Shift your head and look
sketchy situations so you can be           from behind squeezes by you with                  towards the exit/end of the corner
prepared to act quickly – have a plan B.   oncoming traffic. This is a bad scene,            (don’t look down); and (3) really push
                                           and it happens. A GMBC member was                 down on the outside pedal and on
Be the center of attention. Bright         severely injured in a situation just like this.
clothing helps you stand out. Flashers                                                       the inside handlebar (this stabilizes
take it to the next level.                                                                             the bike when in the arc of
                                                                                                       the corner). It helps to be
Be aware. Listen and watch                                                                             on in the drops, too. It takes
for traffic, dogs, and people.                                                                         practice, but works.
Anticipate cars pulling out or
turning in front of you. Always                                                                           Riding with others.
question your visibility to                                                                               Communicate! Yell out
drivers. Scan the road surface                                                                            hazards that you see,
for debris and hazards.                                                                                   when you are turning or if a
Sometimes avoiding a crash                                                                                turn is coming up, and yell
                                                                                                   PHOTO CREDIT: TOM BROIDO

comes down to milliseconds.                                                                               “braking” if you need to slow
                                                                                                          down for any reason. This
Know what’s behind you                                                                                    type of communication will
before moving/turning                                                                                     prevent crashes. Always be
left or right. Never pull out                                                                             gentle on the brakes when
into the lane or turn around                                                                              someone is behind you.
without looking behind you                                                                                Riding two abreast is legal
(a mirror makes this much                                                                                 so long as the cyclists are
easier). Use a hand signal for                                                                            on a section of road with a
a few seconds prior to making                                                                         clear line of sight and are not
the move – holding the signal              Look forward. If you tend to find                          impeding the “reasonable flow
buys you a little extra time in case you   yourself looking just five or 10 feet in          of traffic.” You must share the road
missed a vehicle or rider behind you.      front of you, you will miss hazards and           even in the heat of battle. Irresponsible
                                           will crash someday. Even when riding              riders irritate motorists, and tragically,
Be responsible. Stop at stop signs/                                                          cyclists have been targeted and killed
traffic lights (or at least slow down to   behind someone, look beyond that
                                           person.                                           by drivers who’ve flipped out. I know of
a crawl at a stop sign). If you come to                                                      several incidents locally where drivers
an intersection with backed up traffic,    Practice your bike handing. This                  flipped, but luckily no riders were
slow way down when passing on the          is a great way to gain confidence on              seriously hurt.                  
2   GMBC Perspectives
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
Socially Connecting
                                in a New Environment
                                                        Brian Kinsman

GMBC
                                   has      too fast a group and got dropped, I’d       body has to come in last. Likewise
                                   been     be lost because I had no clue where         bouncing through the groups helped
                                   a part   I was or where any of the roads went.       me meet more people. At some point,
of my life for as long as I can remem-      If I went out with too slow a group, my     I started meshing with the same group
ber. Over the years I’ve done TT’s,         ego might be damaged. I decided to          on Tuesday and a different group on
Wednesday training rides, backroad          humble myself and go out with a 13-         Thursday. On Tuesday’s ride, Don was
rides, touring, and VP rides. Each          14mph group. This proved to be about        the leader. I later found out he was the
of them soon turned into fun social         the right place for me to start. Later, I   club VP, so I guess that was the “VP
events as I got to know people. But         sort of got complimented in my choice,      ride.” I joked with Don that I liked rid-
how does it all get started? What           as the regulars see many people             ing with him because I felt if anything
would it be like to be a newbie again?      come down and jump into groups that         happened, they’d all come looking for
Well, this winter I got to find out.        are too fast. They do well for a few        us, because he was a club dignitary.
                                            miles, and then someone has to drop         He didn’t seem to think so. A woman
I started spending the winter in No-        back to ride with them. On these rides,     in our group was always saying friend-
komis, Florida. Part of the choice to       the different groups will often take        ly hellos as we passed by pedestrians
winter there included some Google           different routes, so it’s not always as     or other cyclists. It was really special. I
reconnaissance. I found that the great-     simple as dropping back to the next         asked her why she did it and she said
er Sarasota/Venice area had at least        group. It was a good fit for me, and I      it was because riding her bike made
two well-established bicycle clubs.         had a wonderful ride along the Gulf         her happy and she wanted to share
When I got down there in January, I         Coast. The typical weekday ride is          that however she could.
made it a priority to find out when and     about 30 miles with a break midway.
where group rides happened and just         Weekend rides are sometimes a bit           One of the popular places for week-
show up. I chose a Tuesday morning          longer.                                     end rides was “Bird Land.” This was
ride with a club called Coastal Cruis-                                                  a fascinating place, on the outskirts
ers. I know it sounds a bit like a Harley   An interesting dynamic in this club is      of a town called Rotunda; a suburban
motorcycle club, but I was relieved to      E-bikes. There are people still riding      development built on wetlands. After
see men and women in Lycra hang-            in the club well into their 80’s. Some      one of the hurricanes many years
ing around some really sweet road           ride E-bikes and some don’t. The club       ago, they realized it wasn’t a good
bikes. I knew I had the right place         rules for E-bikes are that they are         place to build houses. The developer
and probably the right club. I didn’t       allowed on rides. They request that in      went broke, leaving miles and miles of
know anybody, but there were a few          the groups of 16mph or greater, they        finished roads, sidewalks, canals and
extra-extroverted people who made a         stay at the back of the group. They are     bike paths, but not a house in sight
point to welcome me. This club is pri-      not allowed in paceline riding and gen-     and, obviously no cars. It is possible
marily made up of seasonal retirees:        erally you don’t see them in the 18+        to do a 30-mile road ride in Bird Land
aka “snow birds.” Most were over 60. I      mph groups. All this is to say, there       without ever seeing a car. The pave-
certainly fit well into the age group.      was a wonderful diversity of riders out     ment, although 20 years old, is great,
                                            enjoying cycling.                           because they don’t have frost busting
Now I faced a decision of which group                                                   it up. Since it is a wetland, there aren’t
to ride with. There were about eight        The Tuesday rides generally included        many trees and the coastal breezes
groups going out. I did a visual audit      a 10-mile stretch called Casey Key          blow right through. It can make for a
of calf and quad size versus weight         Road, offering a nice view of the Gulf      long day of headwinds, as it did this
to try to assess what group I should        Coast. The Thursday ride I did includ-      year on Century Day and other rides.
join. This, of course, is tricky business   ed a trip to a farmers’ market for our      There were days that I dreamt of a
because some of those who you think         rest stop and then a ride up Manasota       tree-sheltered ride up App Gap.
are going in a 16mph group will jump        Key along the coast. Eventually, after
in with the 18mph group and throw           a few weeks, my fitness came back,          Early on, my wife and I did a Saturday
your analysis out the window at the         and I was able to ride with and meet        ride with the club on our tandem. We
last second. Another complicating           new people. When I used to mountain         met another tandem couple the week
factor was estimating my own fitness. I     bike race, I always called a bad year       before when out riding and invited
hadn’t ridden since October and even        a great chance to meet new people.
then, because of illness, I hadn’t rid-     When it was a really bad year, I called                           Socially Connecting
den much since July. If I went out with     it public service, because hey, some-                                   Continued on page 8

                                                                                                Summer Newsletter 2020              3
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
P’tit Train Du Nord
                                                     by Yasmin   Tayeby

L
         ast                                                                                              stopping point. For
         Septem-                                                                                          the first few kilome-
         ber, my                                                                                          ters leaving Saint Je-
husband and I                                                                                             rome, the route still
loaded up our                                                                                             felt a little bit met-
gravel bikes for                                                                                          ropolitan, complete
our first bike-                                                                                           with graffiti-lined
packing vaca-                                                                                             tunnels and sections
tion. We chose                                                                                            of the path that ran
Le P’tit Train Du                                                                                         parallel to roadways.
Nord, an old rail                                                                                         As we left the city
trail in Quebec                                                                                           limits, however, the
that has been                                                                                             tree cover started
converted to                                                                                              growing and the
one of the                                                                                                traffic noise start-
nicest routes                                                                                             ed to fade. Pretty
around, com-                                                                                              soon, we were
plete with ame-                                                                                           cycling alongside
nities for cyclists                                                                                       a free-flowing river
along the entire                                                                                          on one side and
200km/124mile                                                                                             expansive cliff faces
trail. Unfortu-                                                                                           on the other.
nately, work
schedules didn’t                                                                                             At the 25km mark,
allow for us to do the full length                                                            we came upon a lovely stop
this time around, but we made it                                                              called Café De La Gare/Espres-
to the halfway mark and plan on                                                               so Sports, half restaurant, half
going back to do the whole route                                                              bike shop. We sipped on ice-cold
once the borders open.                                                                        lemonades and scarfed down our
                                                                                              croque monsieurs before popping
This adapted railroad provides a                                                              in next door. Along with a large
beautiful way to travel between                                                               fleet of bike rentals, Espresso
the villages and towns of Que-                                                                Sports had everything you might
bec while seeing breathtaking                                                                 need for your ride as well as
scenery, enjoying the gastrono-                                                               some P’tit Train branded jerseys
mie of the region, and staying at                                                             and merch.
quaint B&B’s. While a luggage
transportation service exists,               rant in the centre ville. Apart from the          Once we arrived in Val David,
we really enjoyed carrying all of our        area just around the route’s starting       we found our bed and breakfast just
packs ourselves. It allowed us to keep       point, Saint Jerome isn’t much to write     adjacent to the path. As it turns out,
a flexible schedule, if needed, and we       home about. We stayed at the Com-           we were incredibly lucky in picking
just found it to be more fun! Due to the     fort Inn Suites, one of just a handful of   Les Passionnes (www.passionnes.
P’tit Train being a retired railway, there   decent hotels in the area.                  ca). Not only were the rooms tastefully
are plenty of old train stations along                                                   decorated and comfortable, but the
the route that have been converted           We started our next day bright and          restaurant was exceptional. We got to
into cafes, rest stops, bike shops, and      early with croissants, brioches, and        pick from a three or five-course meal
more. All rest stops have bathrooms,         espressos from a delicious bakery just      that included items like pan seared
water stations, bike pumps, and basic        around the corner from our start point.     scallops, marinated duck breast, and
bike tools available.                        Place De La Gare is the train station       salmon tartare, all made in the open
                                             in the center of town where the route       kitchen and topped off with a beautiful
We arrived in the evening in a town          begins, and we were thrilled when we        bottle of red. After a dessert of tarte
just west of Montreal called Saint           arrived to see that it was bustling with    du pomme, we rolled ourselves back
Jerome, and had the requisite car-           cyclists. For our first day, we decid-      into our room and slept soundly under
bo-loaded dinner at an Italian restau-       ed to bike 46km/29miles and chose           our plush, goose-down comforter.
                                             the quaint village of Val David as our
4   GMBC Perspectives
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
We woke up the next morning to the
sound of pouring rain. Not exactly
what you want to hear while you strap
up your bags to your bikes. The silver
lining was the breakfast of champi-
ons that our chef prepared for us,
but we couldn’t help but notice that
he served them with a sympathetic
smile. “It is supposed to rain all day,”
he said as he placed our plates down
in front of us. And rain all day it did.
Our next stop was La Conception,
56km/36miles away, and we biked as
fast as we could to get there. About
halfway through the ride, the winds
started to pick up and at
one point, we stopped in
a tunnel under a roadway
just to shake some feel-
ing back into our fingers
and toes. We whizzed                                                   After what
by the wine bar that                                                  seemed like
we had flagged on our                                                 years, but
route at the 70km mark                                                was really
without giving it a sec-                                             only two and
ond glance. We also                                                  a half hours,
zoomed right through                                                 we turned into
the village of Trem-                                                our next bed
blant, knowing that we                                              and breakfast,
would be backtrack-                                                 Auberge Le
ing through there the                                              Cosy (www.
next day. Even in                                                  aubergelecosy.
the downpour it was                                               com). Sopping
clear that the area                                               wet, I squished my
was beautiful, and                                                way to the check-
we were anxious to                                               in counter and
see it in the sun-                                              was greeted with
light on our way                                                another sympathet-
back.                                                          ic look. “We have
                                                              a washer and dryer
                                                              in the lobby if you
                                                             wish to use it,” the
                                           receptionist said. I assured her that
                                           we would.

                                           After our showers and a short rest,
                                           we called a cab service to take us into
                                           Tremblant to grab some food. Unfor-
                                           tunately, in our haste for nutrition, we
                                           picked the place that promised the
                                           quickest service which is never really
                                           a great reason to choose a restaurant.
                                           We shared an appetizer of poutine
                                           that was decent enough, but our
                                           pizza was very lackluster. The good
                                           thing about starving after a long ride,
                                           though, is that it doesn’t really matter
                                           what the food tastes like. We noted

                                                   Summer Newsletter 2020         5
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
upon leaving the restaurant all of the   tub! Once we got back, we lowered           us up there to take us back to our car,
charming places around the village       ourselves into the warm water and           but a quick call to their office and they
that probably would have been a bet-     allowed our muscles to relax. The           happily changed the pick-up point.
ter choice. Good to know for the next    grounds at the Auberge were abso-
time around!                             lutely gorgeous and by then the rain        Tremblant was stunning. The lakes
                                         had passed giving way to a clear sky        and rivers set against the backdrop of
Our room was really more of a cottage    full of stars. It was a great way to end    the Laurentide Mountains were a sight
and came with the added surprise of                     a day that hadn’t gone       to behold. It was a cold day but there
a hot                                                   exactly to plan!             wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the fall
                                                                                     colors seemed to be at their peak.
                                                      Due to our washout the         We eventually came to a final stop at
                                                      previous day, we decided       the wine bar we had flagged for the
                                                      to bike back down the          previous day and had lunch while we
                                                      way we came in order           waited for our shuttle. Since we were
                                                       to see some of the            on the route at the very end of peak
                                                       gorgeous landscapes           season, we were the only people
                                                        we had missed in our         getting picked up which meant a
                                                        rush. One of the nicest      quick, hour-long drive back to our
                                                        features of this route       car.
                                                         is the fact that there is
                                                         a shuttle that will pick    Without a doubt we will be back to fin-
                                                          you and your bike up       ish what we started. It is worth noting
                                                          at any point along         that Le P’tit Train Du Nord is part of
                                                          the way and take you       La Route Verte, a trail spanning the
                                                           to either end of the      whole province of Quebec, and the
                                                           route. We originally      even larger Great Trail of Canada, the
                                                            planned to bike up       longest recreational trail in the world.
                                                            the path another         You can read more about them here:
                                                            35km/21miles and         www.routeverte.com and
                                                             have the shuttle pick   www.thegreattrail.ca.  

6   GMBC Perspectives
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
News from the Richard Tom Foundation
                                                   by John   Williams

G
         reetings from the Era of          In the interim, the Board of Direc-
         Covid! Like most, if not all,     tors of RTF initiated an exciting new     Hope to see you at the Kids’ Crit (Labor
         outdoor cycling and sport         program purchasing new or recon-          Day) or Richard’s Ride (October 17)!
events in the USA, the Richard Tom         ditioned bicycles to provide, free of
Foundation (RTF) Richard’s Ride            charge, to children. This year we
2020 has been postponed. We                provided bicycles to three boys, ages
moved the event date from Saturday,        7-13, who did not previously own
May 16, 2020 to Saturday, October 17,      bicycles. Children were identified
2020. We truly hope we can stage the       by grade-school teachers on the
event at that time from Cochran’s Base     RTF Board, in coordination with the
Lodge, however we will need to watch       parents of the children. Many thanks
how the State and CDC Guidelines           to Board Members Aimee Motta,
play out over the next few months. As-     Michelle Cournoyer, and Karen
suming our event is a “Go”                              P. Ward for helping to
we will offer our traditional                           identify the children who
selection of rides and routes                           received bikes. Miles of
with the addition of a scenic                           smiles! Special thanks
and challenging gravel ride                             to RTF Board Member
of 40 or more miles. We                                 Chris Morrissey (aka
are hoping we don’t need to                             “CMO”). Chris acquired
go virtual, but that might be-                          and customized the bikes
come an option. So please                               for each child through his
save the date and stand by                              business “Cool Motion
for updates!                                            Outdoor Sport.” Not only
                                                        did we provide bikes to
As of now, the Green Mountain Stage        each child, but also a brand-new hel-
Race (GMSR) has not yet been               met, water bottle and RTF stickers! If
cancelled. The Richard Tom Founda-         anyone has quality bikes that could
tion Kids’ Crit is an integral part, and   benefit a child, please let me know at
demonstrably one of the most exciting      jbikenski@gmail.com. Chris has the
aspects of the Burlington Criterium on     expertise to make bikes “like new”.
Labor Day! Last year we cancelled          We hope to expand on this program
the Kids’ Crit due to unsafe conditions    in the future and perhaps even offer
delivered in the form of pouring rain.     free bikes to parents so they can have
This year, we will follow the lead of      cycling adventures with their child!
the GMSR Race Director in deciding
whether Covid-19 restrictions will         We continue to support young girls
result in cancelling of the GMSR and       through our annual support of Little
with it the Kids’ Crit. A decision is      Bellas where athletic skills, confi-
expected by late July/early August.        dence, camaraderie, and healthy
Stay tuned for more information to         lifestyles become the norm. In this
be passed along through the GMBC           time of Covid, planning for camps for
listserve. If cancelled, we will surely    girls has been more of a struggle.
miss seeing all kids race around the       This program was especially import-
block, but perhaps we can come up          ant to Richard Tom. Our support will
with a different idea!? And we are         help them conduct their events in a
already looking forward to Kids’ Crit      safe and socially responsible manner
2021! The Richard Tom Foundation           throughout the summer of 2020.
will continue as Title Sponsor for the
Criterium. These are challenging           We also provide support to Local
times in many ways! In the meantime,       Motion which remains at the forefront
kids – keep riding and stay in shape!      in Vermont for ideas, innovations, and
Ride with your parents and friends!        advocacy that result in safer streets
Wear a helmet, stay safe!                                                    
                                           for cyclists, runners, and walkers.

                                                                                            Summer Newsletter 2020         7
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
First VP Ride in the Era of Covid
                                                          by John   Williams

A
          ll went well for our first Satur-
          day VP Ride, starting from the
          Enosburg High School parking
lot. Nine riders signed up in advance
and completed the wellness check list.
All nine appeared at the parking lot on
a day with bright sun and few clouds
for a 9:15 start. We headed north on
Water Tower Road to ride the route, in
a clockwise direction, up over North
Jay (Rt. 105) with a smooth and thrill-
ing descent into Jay and a stop at the
Jay Country Store for fluid refills. Then
it was up and over Jay/Route 242 –
with its challenging 13+ percent grade
to the top. The descent on Rt. 242 to             and Tom Broido for much of the ride.
Montgomery Center is a little bumpy. I            Kevin Bessett pulled the three of us
think the frost heaves from winter have           all the way from Montgomery Center
not completely resorbed.                          back to Enosburg. Thank you Kevin!

Jim Paige rode to the route start from            We celebrated the ride and the 4th
home and logged 100 miles to do so.               with a brew (thanks Tom!) back at the
We quickly separated into a couple                parking lot. Let’s hope that Covid-19
of groups with the front group up the             remains at a low level in Vermont so
road somewhere. I never saw them                  that we can continue our weekly Sat-
again. I hung out with Susan Kelley               urday VP Rides!   
Socially Connecting
Continued from page 3
                                                  barely wide enough to get the han-          at the peak of our season. Most in the
them to join us on the club ride. The             dlebars through on the single track.        club would fall into an “at risk” category,
ride leader for our group was John.               Among the hazards were wild pigs,           just for our age alone.
In subsequent weeks John and I                    gators, and possibly some snakes.
found ourselves often doing the same              The rule down there is if you go down       So, it was with a heavy heart that the
rides. I got to know John a little more           in the dirt, don’t stay there long. The     cycling season ended so abruptly,
through on-the-road conversations.                wild pigs have this thing where they        just as I was starting to make some
One day I was bemoaning the lack of               dig for food on the sides of the single     new friends. To help with next year,
anyone to go mountain biking with. I              track where it’s soft. This leaves wheel    I actually created a notepad on my
had found a place that had trails, but I          sized divots all along the side of the      phone with names, identifying things
don’t usually mountain bike alone. To             single track for extra challenge. This      about the person, and how I knew
my surprise, he said he had a group               group of guys became fast friends.          them. Some had nicknames or un-
of guys that went out on Wednesdays               We’d ride for three or four hours. We       forgettable things about them: Pivot
and Fridays and invited me to join                stopped often, which gave us time to        Paul who is nicknamed for the bike
them. So, join them I did!                        socialize, joke and exaggerate.             he rides, Gordie who at 78 years old
                                                                                              is one of the fastest mountain bikers I
One thing I quickly learned is that               By mid-March, the club activities were      know, Rick, who just started mountain
it isn’t called mountain biking down              peaking. Many snow birds head back          biking a year ago and is a very strong
there, for obvious reasons. They call it          home by the end of April. There were        road rider - a combo that often leads to
“off roading” or “trail riding.” I call it fast   many special rides planned, social activ-   crashes, Christian with his TDF stories
and flat. They knew of several public             ities, bike swaps and all the things that   and Gary with so many epic road rides
trail networks. One is actually is very           make a club vibrant. Then COVID-19          to his credit. The GMBC is lucky to
thickly forested area just 10 miles in            hit! I applaud the leadership of the club   have its own unique cast of characters,
from the coast. Many of the trails were           for taking tough and decisive action to     and I am eager to see you all again
in thickly wooded areas where it was              shut down activities in mid-March right     soon when riding can start again.    
8   GMBC Perspectives
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
From the Desk of the VP: John Williams
                 On Riding During the Era of Covid                                  Re-connect with the
                                                                                     World in 2021 with
                                                                                   Vermont Bicycle Tours
As winter tapers into spring
         We begin to think of the joys that cycling will soon bring.
But with Winter 2020 brought to a screeching halt
         Ski areas closed by Covid-19, it seemed all was for naught.
Our plans for starting group rides abruptly fizzled
         When Covid-19 left us wondering, worried, and puzzled.                       Explore 2021 travel
                                                                                      dates on vbt.com—
Re-uniting with our GMBC Friends became untenable,
                                                                                   including nine new trips!
         As we were told by authorities to remain unsociable.
                                                                                   Guided Biking
Being dedicated to our sport and the philosophy of YOLO,                           • Greece: Sparta, Monemvasia &
         We continued to ride, although mostly solo.                                 the Peloponnesian Peninsula
                                                                                   • Spain & Portugal: Coastal
We even found some positive aspects to this lock down                                Camino de Santiago
         When we discovered no traffic along roads and around town.                • Switzerland & France: Lake
                                                                                     Geneva, Annecy & Valleys of
With work schedules modified or even working from home,                              the Alps
         We found ways to satisfy our constant yearning to roam.
                                                                                   Self-Guided Biking
Each day we checked Strava to peek at our ride buddies,                            • Croatia: Dalmatian Coast,
                                                                                      Split to Dubrovnik
         How many miles, feet climbed, did they earn any trophies?                 • France: Vineyards of Beaujolais
We posted our own rides on Strava each day,                                        • Ireland: Connemara & the Wild
                                                                                      Atlantic Way
         Then checked for kudos, got twenty, hooray!                               • Italy: Tuscany, Lucca to Siena
                                                                                   • The Netherlands: Holland’s Golden
I have on my Garmin a “virtual rider”
                                                                                      Age Towns & the North Sea
         With equal ability to climb or descend, no changes in speed, no bother.
                                                                                   Bike & Boat
Virtual “she” leaves me peeved when I’m caught on climbs,                          • France Bike & River Cruise:
         While, with joy, I zoom ahead on the negative inclines!                      Lyon to Nice

I found myself talking to this virtual “she”                                       Plus 7 More Tours in the Making
         When, on climbs, she passed me by with imagined glee.                     We are developing a collection
                                                                                   of 2021 tours that feature some
There were no worries of being dropped off the back,                               of our favorite places to bike in
                                                                                   the U.S.—tours that you can
         Or of seeing riders disappear in the distance with no slack.              drive to in wide-open areas like
While overall, the Era of Covid has been far from sublime,                         national parks and rolling rural
                                                                                   country sides. These tours are
         Here in Vermont, we are encouraged to see a decline.                      not yet on our website or open for
Many have gathered to ride in small groups,                                        reservation but will be soon!

         Taking care to avoid sneezing or clearing clogged snoots.                 Guided Biking
                                                                                   • Bryce and Zion National Parks
So I believe we cyclists discovered positive attributes,                           • Colorado
         Even in this time when Covid interrupted GMBC riding groups.              • Maryland’s Eastern Shore
                                                                                   • Yellowstone and Grand Teton
                                                                                      National Parks
                        Let’s hope that we can soon resume
                                                                                   Self-Guided Biking
                 Riding with our GMBC buddies somewhere other than                 • Acadia National Park
                              around the Zwift room!                               • California Wine Country
                                                                                   • Vermont
                      Credit: Editorial assistance by Ellie Bouffard.

                                                                                        Summer Newsletter 2020           9
Perspectives - Green Mountain Bicycle Club
#Antiracismride
                                                          by   Jared Katz

M
            y childhood home lies some        The ride that developed into my #an-       in, Bob Marley filled my right ear,
            260 miles south down              tiracismride was socially motivated. I     “Let’s get together, and feel alright.”
            Routes 22A and 22 to Brew-        wanted to raise my voice and encour-       I thought about the conversation I’d
ster then up Route 6 to Old Ridgebury         age others to think, reflect, consider,    had with Ian about Juneteenth and
Road. For many years I thought it             become angry with me, confront me,         reflected that, had we had the con-
would be “fun,” interesting, at least,        talk to me, ask me questions, while I      versation five years earlier, I would
to ride that route from my home in            was doing all of that to myself. I con-    not have known what Juneteenth cel-
Richmond in one day on the summer             sidered the term, “white privilege,” and   ebrated. I was born in 1966. I grew up
Solstice. Two hundred and sixty miles,        thought of the dirt-poor whites I have     in the wake of Martin Luther King Jr.’s
7,200 feet of climbing, and a 17mph           come to know through my work as a          murder. I went to alternative and pri-
average meant I could leave at the            cop and as a therapist. They would         vate schools that prided themselves
first light of dawn and arrive before full    not think of themselves as “privileged.”   in teaching about “race,” “class,” and
darkness set in.                              My wife and I agreed on “advantaged,”      “culture”. At racing age 54, I am five
                                              as carrying the essence of the mean-       years into knowing what Juneteenth
I thought this would be the year to give      ing.                                       is. I hit Main Street in Waterbury just
the route a try. Covid said no. I laid out                                               after they’d watered it. I was buried in
an equivalent distance in Vermont on          I rode out of Richmond at 2200 on          mud. Puns.
Ride with GPS and it seemed doable.           Juneteenth. It was dark. Bluetooth
                                                                                            In Montpelier, I rode State Street to
I started doing more long rides -                                                           see the Black Lives Matter mural
50’s 60’s, 80’s, centuries... The                                                           painted in front of the State House.
nation caught on fire. The world                                                            Its recent desecration remedied;
turned its eyes to the murders of                                                           the letters bold and bright yellow on
George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, and                                                           the black macadam. I felt hope at
Ahmaud Arbery. Protests turned                                                              the Governor’s response. We can
to riots. I began to listen differently.                                                    do this, I thought. “...We forward in
Trevor Noah explained it from his                                                           this generation, triumphantly.” The
perspective. My internal experience                                                         BLM signs faded as I rode east,
of riots changed. I don’t condone                                                           and then disappeared. Maybe I
the destruction, the loss, or the                                                           missed them in the darkness, but
violence, but I think I understand it                                                       my lights are good and strong. I
and I can forgive it.                                                                       didn’t see another BLM sign from

10   GMBC Perspectives
Marshfield to St Albans - 150 miles        them how I behaved in racist ways           eye-level view of Jay Peak’s peak.
further on.                                towards them or in their presence?
                                           Kevin, Sharon, Stan, Donna, Wilbur,         The climb also afforded ample time
An unbelievable display of fireflies       Cheryl, Caroline, Vince and Rufus,          for reflection. My average speed
greeted my climb past the road to          Tracy, Mike, Michael, Tony, Carl,           dropped below 16 mph for the first
Cabot. I turned my gaze skyward and        Tony, Donna L... the list of friends I      time since Duxbury. Privilege. Ad-
the fireflies merged with countless        may have “abused” by my actions,            vantage. Breathe. I can’t breathe. My
stars. No light pollution here after       or inactions goes on. I had relatives       head starts swimming at the thought
midnight with a nearly New Moon.           with an apartment I could stay in in        of George Floyd, made larger than life
Campers talking around campfires,          Stuyvesant Town, NYC. Advantage. A          on the cover of New Yorker maga-
their voices carried on the light south    friend and I arrived at Grand Central       zine and rendered dead by a cop, for
wind off my right shoulder. “Alone”        and were making our way towards             what? For maybe passing a counter-
only goes so far. I love the night. What   the main hall of the concourse when         feit bill? I could have done that and
an advantage to thrive on solitude and     an enormous, dark-skinned hand              been given the opportunity to make
darkness, and not fear it or what might    grabbed my shoulder from behind.            it right. I could have explained myself
lie just out of sight. An enormous rac-    Rufus. I don’t remember where he            and I’d be alive.
coon lumbered across the road in front     was coming from or going to, but he
of me caring nothing about my ride.        recognized us and, clearly, decided         I was a cop. I arrested people who
                                           to have some fun. Brad and I were           were white, Black, Latino, male, fe-
Out past Peacham and on to West            freshmen and he was either a senior         male, straight, gay... Some cops would
Danville and Joe’s Pond. The Lamoille      or had graduated the prior year. He         say, “I’m not racist. I hate everyone
Valley Rail Trail to St J is amazing at    scared the breath out of me before I        equally.” I laughed. Very funny. Us
night. Not a place for those afraid of     turned and saw his warm smile. Had          versus them. We are the protectors.
werewolves. The trail goes through         that hand been white, would I have          They are the violators. They break the
some magical cuts in the bedrock, and      reacted the same way? Maybe.                laws we are charged with enforcing. I
some fabulous tunnels. I lost count of                                                 used to say that one of the reasons I
the Luna moths that dodged in and out      I rode on through the night arriving at     liked policing was that everything was
of my lights.                              the crest of a hill in Barton just as the   so clear cut: We had a rule book to
                                           light was starting to glow in the east.     follow. We also were told to exercise
By 0200, I hit St J with a full bottle     A cemetery on my right caught my            discretion. There were professional
left. I chugged it. At the Maplefields,    eye. This headstone caught the light        courtesies afforded to others with a
there was an on-duty and an off-duty       from my tail light just as I clicked the    badge. Discretion. Corruption.
cop in their respective trucks in the      photo. How many people have been
lot. Two semis idled as their drivers      denied access to a “final resting place”    I was called to a one-car accident
presumably rested. The cops moved          of their choice due to the color of their   around 0730 one morning. A car was
on. Leaving the store I wondered:          skin? How many ways have Blacks             down a slight bank off Malletts Bay
Would the 18 year old behind the           been marginalized, rejected, abused?        Avenue. There was a very strong
counter have treated me differently        I recalled something a client recently      odor of intoxicants coming from the
if I were Black? He’d been so willing      said about his pride in Vermont being       operator. He’d stopped at the Spanked
and accommodating of my request to         the first state to abolish slavery. It      Puppy on his way home from a night
wash my “Waterbury pave” from my           wasn’t as simple as that. 1777 marked       shift at IBM. Dexterities failed, he blew
face and bottles in the clearly marked     Vermont’s constitutional end to adult       a .2 or so on the Alco-Sensor. Ac-
“employees only” sink.                     slavery. It wasn’t until 2019 that a bill   cording to him, the reason I arrested
                                           was introduced to amend the consti-         him on suspicion of DUI was that he
I opened How to be an Antiracist, by       tution to abolish all slavery in Vermont    was Black. Man, I thought, you have
Ibram X. Kendi on my iPhone. So            and that will only take effect in 2022      no idea. You got arrested by the most
much to think about. The depth of          after a state-wide vote.                    liberal “non-racist” cop in Vermont.
racism’s reach astounds me. Racism                                                     I released him with a citation and a
within cultures; racism across cultures.   By the time I hit Troy, the sun was up.     cab ride home and he apologized. I’d
Centuries of indoctrination within and     Nearly 120 miles into the day and the       treated him as well as I treated every-
across cultures to maintain racist         temperatures were just beginning to         one who didn’t try to assault me: with
thinking and racist structures. Kendi      rise. As I predicted, those early sea-      dignity, respect, courtesy, calm, and
rejects the term “micro aggression.”       son miles and the more recent cen-          understanding. I considered myself
He prefers “abuse.”                        turies made this first part feel pretty     thoroughly “non-racist.” I am realizing,
                                           easy. My pacing was good and I was          now, that being non-racist was never
In what ways have I acted abusively or     holding about a 17.4 mph average.           enough.
with micro-aggression towards non-         Then I came to Richford Col: a climb
white people in my life? Will I seek out   that hooks up and around to West Jay        Policing changed. Police departments
long lost friends from my youth to ask     and affords what seems like a near          in Chittenden County started to take

                                                                                             Summer Newsletter 2020         11
officer conduct more seriously. The         to get clean, but I want some measure       with my not yet purchased chocolate
men and women in blue are sworn to          of privacy to do it. I wander around the    milk. Privilege. Advantage.
protect and to serve. PROTECT AND           store with a chocolate milk in my hand
SERVE. Freddie Gray, Atatiana Jef-          and talk to the woman who seems             I meet Rob and Craig. The compan-
ferson, Stephon Clark, Botham Jean,         to be in charge. She offers to let me       ionship is nice. I probably talked their
Philando Castille, Eric Garner, Tamir       use the bathroom. I offer to put the        ears off. I avoid their drafts - it’s a
Rice, Ahmaud Arbery...                      unopened chocolate milk back in the         solo effort. Along the way we stop
                                            cooler. She says it’s fine just to leave    once more and the store clerk gives a
This climb is like the Santa Monica         it on the counter and get it when I’m       somewhat more encouraging, “Wow,”
Mountains. Ibram X. Kendi tells me          done. I put it in the cooler anyway.        at the description of the ride. Maybe
about his experience at the Not Guilty      Cleaned up I get my chocolate milk          that’s something.
finding in the OJ Simpson murder trial.     and a ham sandwich along with a
For once, he tells me, white people         gallon of water. I explain my ride to       The Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail isn’t as
might understand the hopelessness           the woman while she rings me up.            smooth as the LVRT but it’s flat, has a
and helplessness that Black people          “Huh,” she says and I’m not sure if         little shade, and has company. Despite
have felt for generations. Of course        she doesn’t know what the NAACP             cruising along about 18 mph my av-
OJ was guilty. But it was never “of         is, what Black Lives Matter is, doesn’t     erage speed has been 16.5 since the
course” he would get off scot free,         care, or doesn’t abide my journey.          bottom of the Col. Finally, as we cruise
while it may seem that nearly every                                                     toward St. A, it rises to 16.6. I’m ecstat-
white murder of a Black person has          I’ve ridden 140 miles and my bike is        ic. Simple pleasures after 180 miles.
been without justice.                       running perfectly: a Niner RLT RDO
                                            Carbon gravel bike loaded with excel-       In St Albans Bay, I fill a stocking leg
At the Jolley in Richford there is a sign   lent food. I haven’t seen a person of       with ice and stuff it down the back
on the bathroom indicating it’s closed      color since I left Montpelier. In a store   of my jersey – a trick Bobby Bailey
due to Covid. I need to clean up badly.     in one of the more conservative parts       taught me at a hot race in Mass. I
My chamois is soaked and the drop           of Vermont I got to use a closed bath-      part ways with Rob and Craig with 86
bag I collected has everything I need       room and had the option of what to do       miles to go. It’s not until I stop in Essex

12   GMBC Perspectives
Junction that white is no longer the         during the ride so far, offering encour-   and I’m trying hard not to infer that
only skin color around. I remember           agement, confidence... “You got this!”     everyone else should follow my
being in Kenya in 1984 and feeling so        They said. OK. I got this.                 introspective journey. I hope every-
identifiable and singularly different for                                               one will, though, because I think that
the first time. I grew up in an anti-Se-     Steve texted me. Stop at his Paradi-       the only way our species can move
mitic and racist town in southwestern        so Farm for a cold brew? Yes! Set a        forward is to rethink the way we’ve
Connecticut and felt some difference         course for Lake Road and engage the        lived our socio-political-economic lives
then, but it was minuscule. A white          turbo-thrusters! At least set the course   and commit to living them differently.
Jew among whites of all stripes.             and keep turning the pedals into the       Everyone who followed their Europe-
                                             now west-southwest headwind. Steve         an forebears and has benefitted from
I’m exhausted. The heat is really            and Dovie offered me a hose, iced          their systems has perpetuated, tacitly,
starting to get to me. It would be so        coffee, ice for the now empty ice          the racist ideology and functionality of
easy to head east from here and be           stocking, and a PB & honey. I didn’t       society. The “everyone” are predomi-
home in 50 minutes, tops. I no longer        mention that I felt nauseous and           nantly white.
have Ibram X. Kendi in my ear, but I         had stopped sweating. It was weird
have memories of every bit of racism         because my kidneys still seemed to         The words we choose to describe
I encountered and every instance in          be working and my bladder worked.          the beliefs we have and the way we
which I did nothing. I also remember         The nausea abated about the time I         view the world have significant impact
the few times I stood up to say “It’s not    posted a video of my current condi-        on the ones who hear those words.
cool to say that,” or, “It’s not OK to use   tion - cooked.                                                     Terms like
that language around me.” “Around            I needed a                                                         person of
me.” From this distance that sounds          creemee.                                                           color, mi-
exactly like it is: shallow, inadequate,                                                                        cro-aggres-
avoidant, tentative, pusillanimous.          The line at                                                        sion, privilege,
                                             Cookie Love                                                        conservative,
Onward and southwestward I go,               was too long.                                                      liberal, capi-
cursing Ride with GPS for the stu-           It’s so HOT. I                                                     talist, racist,
pidity of the algorithm that allows it       settled for a                                                      sexist, homo-
to put ridiculous diversions along a         bottle of cold                                                     phobe, trans-
route. Take a right on some dead-end         water from                                                         phobe, and
track and make a U-turn so you can           Jolley; poured                                                     others create
get back on route only to be diverted        it over my head                                                    a story for the
again. Tilley Drive? Really? I know I’m      and contin-                                                        listener that
supposed to go down 116 to Cheese            ued towards                                                        might inhibit
Factory Road, but I also know I’m not        Huntington. No                                                     their ability to
really thinking clearly right now. Could     ice at Beau-                                                       hear. I want
RWGPS be right? I stop and pull out          dry’s. Damn! A                                                     to do better,
my glasses while cursing the develop-        gallon of cold                                                     more, and be
ers for making the font too small and        water on my                                                        part of posi-
creating the enlarged image in a way         head and in                                                        tive change. I
that buries the road names beneath           my bottles jump started my sweating.       want to keep learning. White su-
the route to make them illegible. Bas-       Omitting the stupid RWGPS detours          premacists co-opted the gesture
tards! I want                                meant I was going to come up short         meaning “everything is OK.” That
to scream.                                   on miles. I added to the course. Add       gesture, right index finger to thumb
Jess Cover                                   Huntington Road, Cemetery Road,            with the other three fingers raised,
had asked                                    down Kenyon to Route 2 and a stop at       represents W P, “White Power,” and
me if I had                                  Hatchet for a maple creemee at last        the racist belief system they promul-
considered                                   (!!!!) and then Cochran Road to home.      gate to the racist thugs who co-opt-
that I might                                                                            ed it. Screw that and them. It means
lose my                                      Fait accompli. 266 miles in 20 hours       everything is OK. This is a deep
mind at                                      from 2200 Friday to 1800 Saturday          and long engagement in the journey
some point.                                  with (somehow) four hours of down          to change.
I think my                                   time. Sixteen hours. 960 minutes. At an
brain is                                     average cadence of 89 that’s 85,440        We got this.
melting.                                     turns of the cranks. My knees hurt.
                                             They feel worn. I suppose they are.        The unabridged version of this story
I’ve never ridden more than 130 miles                                                   can be found at:
in a day, if that. I reminded myself         I finished How to be an Antiracist.        http://bikelifevt.blogspot.com/2020/06/
of the texts I’d gotten along the way        There is a lot for me to think about       antiracismride.html 
                                                                                              Summer Newsletter 2020        13
L’Etape et Moi
                                                         by   Spencer Knapp
                                                Part One of a three-Part Series

I
   had the good fortune to do six L’Etapes du Tour over             Bourg and pulled together other travel logistics.
   a decade or so but finished just four. Idiotic mishaps
   spoiled the other two and almost a few more. More about          That winter, while browsing a French cycling magazine in a
that in a minute.                                                   New York City bike shop (a rare find in those days), I noticed
                                                                    an article on what was then to be the fifth annual L’Etape. It
Each L’Etape was a standout lifetime adventure, despite my          looked like an event from my dreams: 195 kilometers over
screw-ups. My last one in 2009 sent me to a French hospi-           two iconic cols – the Croix de Fer and Galibier – replicat-
tal for a week, had me recuperating in Lyon with a collapsed        ing the 15th stage of that year’s Tour. The fantasy ride of a
lung for weeks after that, and then, under strict orders from       lifetime, I thought. The route started not far from Bourg in
my wife (and physician) on returning home I was ordered             Grenoble and ended nearby in Les Deux Alpes. Perfect.
to do no more etapes. This was sensible advice, given my
dubious track record. I’ve followed it steadfastly.                 French riders had to qualify by meeting cut-off times in an-
                                                                    other cyclosportif somewhere in France but foreigners like
For those who don’t know, L’Etape du Tour is a French               us were given byes. All ten of us signed up swiftly, envision-
cyclosportif presented by the Tour de France organization           ing a relaxed but epic ride. We had no idea.
every year since 1993. Each L’Etape simulates a mountain
stage of that year’s Tour with up to 10,000 riders ranging
from old guys like me to out-of-contract young pros looking
to be noticed. With masses of revved-up cyclists packed on
narrow French roads with dreams of glory and questionable
bike-handling skills, the hazards of L’Etape are substantial.
I encountered more than my share. But the thrill of riding the
same course as the pros is seductive.

Now, you can read no further if you get bored from other
rider’s bike blab. I’ll understand. But if you’d enjoy a first-
hand account of an epic event on classic French mountain
roads filled with colossal foolishness, here goes.

               Round 1: 1998
          Grenoble-Les Deux Alpes

                                                                    Gorges de la Borne, near Villars-de-lans, France, July
                                                                    26, 1998. L to R, James Rosen, Crocker Bennett, Bob
                                                                    McKearin, Doug Gentile, Spencer Knapp, Steve Maley,
                                                                    Jack Bergeron, Tom Moody, Sam Hoar.

                                                                    On arrival, we did some great exploratory rides on the small
                                                                    roads around Bourg d’Oisan for a few days, and the
                                                                    night before L’Etape, we registered with 4,500 others at
                                                                    a conference center in downtown Grenoble. That gave
                                                                    us our first sense of the event’s magnitude. The next
                                                                    day, two of our group played by the rules, got up in the
Entry in my first L’Etape in 1998 was utterly haphazard. I’d        middle of the night, and drove to Grenoble well ahead of
organized a trip with nine bike buddies to Bourg d’Oisans,          the 7 a.m. start time. The rest of us slept later and rode
a well-known cycling center in a charming village at the            from our hotel to a nearby intersection in Allemont, where
base of Alpe d’Huez. This was our first trip together, and          we planned to slip into the pack as it came by about 40k
we had grand plans to ride the big cols and catch a view            from the start. We predicted the first riders would arrive
of the Tour as it passed nearby. Organizing the trip pre-in-        later than 8 a.m., after riding gradually uphill most of the
ternet from books and travel guides was entirely seat-of-           way. When a pack of 200 sped by us just before 8 a.m.,
the-pants. We were clueless. But somehow, we found                  averaging 40kph+ from the start, we realized instantly
an inexpensive cycling-friendly hotel on a quiet street in          that this would be no relaxed ride.

14   GMBC Perspectives
We allowed thousands to pass us and slipped into a group          The 40k descent of the Galibier along endless switchbacks
with numbers like ours in the 2000’s to start what would be       was a thrill, eventually crossing a dam to start the short,
a nearly 50k climb from Allemont to the Col de Croix de Fer.      final climb to Les Deux Alpes. My small group of riders
It was hot and heading rapidly to the high-90s. We were           moved up the hill at a death-march-like pace in the heat.
160k from the finish with 5000m+ of climbing ahead of us.         With 4k to go, I pulled alongside a Frenchman, the first rider
                                                                  I’d caught in hours. We exchanged pleasantries. He said
The climb of the Croix de Fer was packed shoul-                   he regularly did cyclosportifs all over France. He seemed
der-to-shoulder in the lower sections but thinned gradually       very fit but the grey in his hair and lines on his face caused
as we climbed for several hours. I stayed close to Jack and       me to ask his age. “Soixante-quatorze (74),” he said with
Doug, riding at a casual pace. Our legs were fresh but the        a wry smile, and then pedaled easily away from me as we
ascent was endless and the heat started to take bite at the       neared the finish. The memory of his smile has remained
top, where a rest stop with food and drinks was overrun.          with me for years – an incentive for future L’Etapes.
The descent of the Croix de Fer swept through panoramic           A few days later, I stood by the side of the road on Les Deux
alpine scenery for more than 30k, though there was little         Alpes to watch Marco Pantani destroy the field on this same
chance to take in the views with riders flying by all around at   course, finishing alone and moving into the Tour lead ahead
70+kph. Near the base, there was a narrow, curved tun-            of Jan Ullrich, who collapsed on the final climb and dropped
nel dug into the stone mountainside. The entry had a large        from first to third overall. The American, Bobby Julich, moved
sign screaming “Danger de Mort!” in alarming red letters. I       into second. I was inches from Ullrich as he came by me.
slowed. Doug didn’t, skidded in the curve and body-blocked        His face looked just like mine a few days earlier. Wasted.
the tunnel’s stone wall. Jack and I were slightly ahead,
missed his spill altogether and didn’t see him again until we                        Round 2: 2002
regrouped at the base of the descent in St. Jean de Mauri-                           Aime – Cluses
enne. An ER doc in his regular life, Doug cleaned up a few
bloody cuts and scrapes but was otherwise unhurt, and we
pressed on.

The next 30k to the Col de Telegraphe through Saint-Mi-
chel-de-Maurienne was an inferno on shade-free, freshly
asphalted roads in blistering temps. Our tires oozed in
melting tar. Riders started to drop out in large numbers in
the unbearable heat. In the end, less than half the starters
actually finished. On the slopes of the 20k climb to the Gal-
ibier, beyond the village of Valloire, many of us dismounted
to cool our feet and legs in small mountain streams by the
road side – a comical sight. The final kilometers of the Col
de Galibier were steep and long, like 5x App Gap on any
day. After 140k and two big climbs on a brutally hot day,
this last section was ridiculous. My feet were on fire from
dehydration, but there was a welcome cool breeze on top. I
was dizzy, donned a windbreaker and took several minutes          Four years later, I returned for Round 2, much better pre-
to recover. A gendarme took my picture.                           pared with a few hold-overs from 1998 and a bunch of new-
                                                                  comers; a dozen or so mostly Vermonters. We knew what
                                                                  to expect and had trained with greater discipline. The 2002
                                                                  course was at least as challenging as 1998; a little shorter
                                                                  at 142k but with four major cols and 5000m of climbing, sim-
                                                                  ulating Stage 17 of the Tour that year. My over-ambitious
                                                                  goal was a top-50 finish in the 50+ age group, which would
                                                                  give me a front-group starting position in future L’Etapes.
                                                                  OK, aim high.

                                                                  A few days before the event, we settled at a hotel in Bourg
                                                                  St. Maurice, a village in the French Savoie at the base of
                                                                  the Cormet de Roseland a few kilometers from Aime, the
                                                                  start town, a short ride from the Italian border, and at the
                                                                  center of numerous climbs in every direction. In the next
                                                                  few days, we did exploratory rides up, down and around
                                                                  the Cormet, registered in Aime the night before L’Etape,
  At the start of the descent of the Col de Galibier,             and went to bed early with the high anxiety that precedes
                                                                  any big event. I barely slept. My anxiety was widely shared.
  July 23, 1998.

                                                                                              Summer Newsletter 2020        15
James came to breakfast at 5 a.m., fully kitted with his bike      At Beaufort, the downhill quickly turned back to uphill
shoes on and his helmet fully buckled. We asked if he went         on the 19k Col des Saisies, and there was another aid
to bed that way.                                                   station and bottle refill in the ski village at the top, before
                                                                   another 15k descent to Flumet. That’s where things went
We played things straight this time, got up before dawn for        sideways.
breakfast at the hotel, and rode downhill to the charming vil-
lage of Aime, lining up by number with thousands of others         On a series of tight switchbacks near the bottom, a young
in waves of starting gates awaiting a 7 a.m. start. The morn-      French rider on my inside right lost his wheel, slid into me
ing was gorgeous; blue and sunny, warm but not sweltering.         hard, and body-blocked me into a two-foot high stone wall
                                                                   marking the road’s left edge and a precipitous drop-off.
The start was all uphill for 31.5k to the summit of the            Hitting the wall at hub height, I catapulted into space and
Cormet, initially on a wider road but switching to a narrow        landed 20’ below on what was miraculously a soft pine-nee-
mountain lane after Bourg and immediately congested.               dle forest floor. I wasn’t hurt - not even scratched - and
In the lower sections of the tiny road, riders were shoul-         started to scramble back to my bike. The young rider looked
der-to-shoulder, wheel-to-wheel, six across, frequently            over the wall directly above me, his hands raised sheepishly
stopping abruptly as things jammed in the endless switch-          to his shoulders with the universal “Uh, sorry” gesture and
backs. It was maddening, impossible to make a consistent           asked, “Ça va?” In situations like this, what can one say but
pace, and even worse when an ambulance inched through              “oui,” which is what I said with teeth clenched. I then spent
the massive peloton, sirens blaring, and we all had to step        20 minutes climbing back up the steep precipice using tree
aside.                                                             stumps and rocks for footing. At the top, the young rider
                                                                   was long gone, and my bike lay against the stone wall. At
                                                                   a glance it appeared undamaged – another miracle?- but
                                                                   when I picked it up to remount, the front fork split in two. It
                                                                   had been severed on impact, and the front wheel was a
                                                                   pretzel. End of Round 2.

                                                                   But not the end of a very long day. I walked downhill a
                                                                   kilometer or two to the village of Flumet as bikes whizzed
                                                                   by me. There was an aid station in the village but of course,
                                                                   no mechanics and no replacements for a broken fork
                                                                   and wheel. I watched all my buddies go by along with
                                                                   thousands of others. And sulked. This was the era before
                                                                   iPhones. I had no way to communicate and no way to hitch
                                                                   back to our hotel, as roads were closed. Nothing to do but
                                                                   wait. And sulk. Which is what I did in the village of Flumet
                                                                   - a charming spot - for roughly six hours until my buddies
                                                                   returned from the finish line after the roads opened and
                                                                   picked me up.

                                                                   So I was batting .500 on the two L’Etapes I’d started, glad to
Climbing the Cormet de Roseland, July 22, 2002.                    be uninjured but otherwise miserable.

But things spread out half way up the climb as the road            The story had a happier ending the next day when we drove
opened to panoramic views of Mont Blanc. My confidence             to Bourg d’Oisans, where we knew of a world class bike
lifted, as I started to pass riders on the final kilometers to     shop from four years earlier. In an hour or so, my fork
the col, where there was a crowded rest stop. I stopped            and wheel were replaced, my bike was back in action,
quickly for a bottle refill and energy bars, before starting the   and I did a celebratory ride up Alpe d’Huez with nearly
screaming 30k descent. At speeds pushing 90kph, I kept a           fresh legs and over and around the Col de Sarenne –-
safe distance from others, especially on the sweeping turns.       one of the nicest rides in the Alps in my view. Thoughts
With daredevils all around, that wasn’t easy.                      turned to Round 3.   

                    Check out the next issue of Perspectives
      for the second in a three-part series of L’Etape et Moi

16   GMBC Perspectives
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