Sharing the Heritage - Festival 2021 25th Annual - Provincetown Portuguese Festival
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25th Annual Share the 1 Heritage Festival 2021 Sharing the Heritage Celebrating the 74th Blessing of the Fleet
Share the 2 Heritage Celebrating the heritage and the future of the community we serve Cape Cod’s First Community Bank seamensbank.com Portuguese Festival painting by Nancy Whorf
Share the 3 Heritage 25th Annual Festival Friday, Saturday and Sunday June 25, 26 and 27, 2021 The Early Beginnings of the Provincetown Portuguese Bakery.................... 5 A Taste of Portugal ..................................................................................... 7 Generations ................................................................................................ 9 “The Town That ‘Grew’ Me” .................................................................... 13 The Unseen Provincetown ........................................................................ 19 The Next Generation ................................................................................ 23 A Letter from Josephine Del Deo to Francis “Flyer” Santos ....................... 28 A Man and His Boat ................................................................................. 29 The Victory II .......................................................................................... 34 Stormy Harbor – Port of Portuguese Cuisine ............................................. 43 In Memoriam ............................................................................................ 61 T he Festival Commemorative Book Committee The Festival Commemorative Book Committee extends its most sincere gratitude to those who have so generously shared wonderful family histories, fascinating information, beautiful paintings and priceless memories with us: Seamen’s Bank, Provincetown History Preservation Project, Provincetown Advocate Public Library Archives, David Dunlap, Building Provincetown, Kenneth Macara, Darlene Macara, Joel Macara, John Francis Santos, Noah Santos, Michael Silva, Lisa King, Helen Valentine, Salvador Vasques, Truro Historical Society, The Janoplis Family, Carol Leonard LeDuc, Mel Joseph, Judy Dutra, Mary Jo Avellar, Chuck Stanko, and George Carroll.
Share the 4 Heritage Toast to America Festival 202 1 Open Year Round Portuguese Festival Team Deli • Bakery • Catering 150 Bradford Street, Provincetown, MA 02657 Susan Avellar, Liliana DeSousa, Beverley Ferreira, Party Platters • Gift Baskets 508.487.0045 Maureen Joseph Hurst, Susan Leonard, Chris King, Food Concierge David Mayo, Tim McNulty, Donald Murphy, In the spirit of the general store, Michela Murphy, Jeffrey Perry, Mike Potenza, Far Land Provisions offers one-stop Shannon Sawyer, Nancy Burch Silva, Paul Silva, shopping for prepared meals, baked Charles Souza, Rich Waldo goods made in-house from scratch, deli sandwiches, wine & spirits Cover: Fishing Boat Victory II and full service catering. Painting by Derek Macara Graphic Design by Ewa Nogiec, iamProvincetown.com Open Year Round 150 Bradford Street Provincetown Portuguese Festival Provincetown, MA 02657 P.O. Box 559, Provincetown, MA 02657 508 487.0045 ProvincetownPortugueseFestival.com www.farlandprovisions.com facebook.com/ProvincetownPortugueseFestival
Share the 5 Heritage The Early Beginnings of the Provincetown Portuguese Bakery By Mary Jo Avellar, 2008 Commemorative Booklet Ofelia Ferreira Bago and Tibor Bago baking sweets at the Portuguese Bakery L ong time Provincetown Brito, the baker’s founder, was than 30 years. residents, especially those born. Of all the bread still baked Ofelia Bago said her family who grew up in the 1950’s in the bakery today, the Viana is came to Provincetown in 1992 and 1960’s, have vivid memories still my favorite. I used to have because her grandmother Ofelia of freshly baked Portuguese bread a hard time bringing it home Costa, the late Matt Costa’s step- wafting through the early morn- without having eaten a sizable mother, lived here. Mrs. Bago’s ing air. East Enders, like me, who chunk from the end of that warm, father, Jose Ferreira went to work daily walked to the high school, crusty loaf. for Matt Costa and eventually could barely resist stopping in and Mr. Brito, who opened the wound up at the bakery, working buying a fresh loaf of bread on bakery in 1932, retired to his for Tony Ferreira. their way to school, even though hometown of Britello, Portugal “We weren’t bakers,” Mrs. they may have already downed in 1971, but the tradition of bak- Bago said of her parents. “My a nice big breakfast. The smells ing excellent Portuguese bread father was the general manager from the bakery were that irresist- and pastries continues in the of a company in Portugal that ible. same location under the capable sold motors for boats and other And at least once or twice a hands of Ofelia and Tibor Bago, aluminum products.” Her hus- week, my mother would give me a her parents Jose and Arnaldina band, a Hungarian, is however, a quarter and send me down to the Ferreira and Ofelia’s sister professional pastry chef. He, too, bakery for a Viana loaf, the loaf Helen, a kindergarten teacher at went to work for Tony Ferreira. still made today that looks like a Veteran’s Memorial Elementary Mrs. Bago said that when Tony short baguette that put on some School. They took over the Ferreira retired, taking over the weight around the middle. That bakery following the retirement bakery seemed “the logical thing particular loaf was named for of Mr. Antonio Ferreira (no rela- to do.” the Portuguese town in northern tion) who moved to Florida after Under their stewardship, the Portugal near where Mr. Antonio having run the bakery for more Bago-Ferreira family have done
Share the 6 Heritage extensive remodeling to both the Restaurant across the street from on the egg yolks, and trutas (fried kitchen and the bakery space it- the bakery. Mike Janoplis is the sweet potato crescents), which lo- self. All of the kitchen equipment son of Sammy Janoplis and the cal Portuguese families only bake has been updated to modern late Maria Brito Janoplis, Mr. during the holidays. stainless steel. The floors have Brito’s daughter. The couple ac- Mike Janoplis is thrilled to been replaced and the bakery tually ran the bakery for a couple have another wonderful family itself has been painted a bright of years when Mr. Brito moved continuing the bakery, something cheerful yellow. “We really made back to Portugal. Mike Janoplis neither he nor his sister and a commitment,” said Mrs. Bago, said when his grandfather owned brothers have any desire to do. whose two daughters, Sarah, 8, the bakery, it was more of a “They seem to be great,” he and Emma, 4, both attend the bakery and grocery store, sort of said of Ofelia Bago and her fam- Provincetown school system. “We like the old L&A Market (now ily. “They are expanding into wouldn’t have it any other way.” Far Land Provisions).When his new frontiers and upholding all The pastry case has also been parents took over, they intro- the old traditions all at the same expanded. Not only are the duced deli style sandwiches. It time.” traditional breads and authentic was Tony Ferreira who brought Portuguese pastries still baked on in soups, the fryolater for those Note: The ownership of the the premises, Mr. Bago has intro- scrumptious malasadas (fried Bakery has remained in the Janoplis duced individual pastries, whole dough), and rabanadas (a kind family since the very beginning, wheat and 7-grain breads as well of Portuguese French toast), and which continues to this day with as birthday and wedding cakes. the grill for hot sandwiches like siblings Mike, Mark, Michelle, and Like Tony Ferreira before them, burgers and linquica rolls. It was Mylan Janoplis, with Chuck Stanko and Ernie Carreiro who also ran also Tony Ferreira, Mike Janoplis and George Carroll as the cur- the bakery for one year, the Bago- said, who expanded the bakery rent stewards of this time-honored Ferreira family leases the business to include authentic Portuguese business. from Michael Janoplis and his pastries like pasteis de nata (small family who own the Mayflower custard filled tarts that are heavy (l-r) Savana Vida, Shannon Sawyer and Jill John Collier, Jr., taken for the War Department Lambrou paint the traditional Portuguese Courtesy of Lisa King Rooster, 2020
Share the 7 Heritage A Taste of Portugal A Provincetown Tradition Continues I n a long line of family, descending from grand- together here in Provincetown, a place that has parents to parents, Sam and Maria, and parents been very special to them. It is evident that they to children, Mike, Mark, Michelle and Mylan, are continuing the tradition of the many Portuguese the Janoplis family has owned the Provincetown recipes that have been passed down to them from Portuguese Bakery at 299 Commercial Street in everyone who has been a part of this bakery for downtown Provincetown for an exceptionally long so many years. One “old” recipe that never needs time, and continues to do so in remembrance of their changing, and they don’t plan to, is that of the family. Even though the Janoplis siblings are not Portuguese malassada, a favorite of everyone. A involved in the day-to-day operation of the Bakery, delicious, tasty Portuguese tradition, it is a specialty which has been the nucleus of their family for gen- of the island of Sao Miguel in the Azores that was erations, they know that the crafting of Portuguese first settled by the Portuguese in 1427. Balls of pastries and breads will continue in the capable dough are deep fried, and coated with sugar, which hands of Chuck Stanko and George Carroll. becomes a wonderful combination of a soft inside Chuck and George are the new “torchbearers” and a crispy sugary outside. In the Azores, malassa- (as they like to refer to themselves), of the iconic das are often eaten on Terca-feira Gorda, the day Provincetown Portuguese Bakery. They say that before Ash Wednesday. In Madeira, malassadas are they are fully cognizant of the responsibility to keep eaten during the Portuguese Carnival of Madeira. this beloved tradition going, and they are going Malassadas were created with the intention of using to see to it that they do exactly that. They have all the lard and sugar that a person had in their made all the necessary changes to repair all that was home prior to Lent. Chuck and George are hoping needed, as well as a myriad of other up-grades that that in Provincetown, malassadas will be eaten have kept them occupied since early spring. every day during the up-coming summer season! For 20 years, Chuck Stanko had a career as Chuck says, “George and I are so excited and hum- Production Manager of the Cape Cod Chronicle bled to be the new torchbearers of the iconic Portuguese in Chatham. He and George in their life together, Bakery. The Bakery has meant so much to me as a before taking on the Bakery, owned Dolce Bakery child, and to us as a couple visiting Provincetown and Coffee Shop in Milford, Delaware for 10 years. from Chatham. We are so lucky to be able to do this They are incredibly pleased that the community of and hope to do right by the name and its predecessors. Provincetown has given them such a warm wel- The uniqueness of the Portuguese people has made come, and so much support and encouragement, as Provincetown so special to so many. We hear it and they begin their stewardship of this time-honored share it every day. Whatever memories this great institu- business. They are, without a doubt, very excited tion conjures, we share them and hope we can live up to and eager to continue the next phase of their lives the standards set by so many, and ourselves.” Desejando-lhe successo a felicidades na sua Aventura na Padaria Portuguesa!
Share the 8 Heritage Provincetown Chapter established February 1932 Bert H. Paige Sivert J. Benson Myric C. Young President Secretary Treasurer THE PROVINCETOWN LIONS CLUB IS PROUD TO BE A PARTICIPATING SPONSOR OF THE Festival CONTINUING THE TRADITION OF SERVING THE COMMUNITY SCHOLARSHIPS TRIPS RECOGNITION BANQUETS MOTTA FIELD SPONSORSHIPS INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL Lee White Peter Grosso John K. Roderick President Secretary Treasurer Perhaps some day, your name will be here
Share the 9 Heritage Generations J. J. Dutra O f the many cultures that Frank, Emily, Juliana, Caroline, have built Provincetown, and Michael. Mary married it is the Portuguese that Richard Davis from Wellfleet. developed the fishing industry. Emily married Joseph Silva, and They brought their inventiveness, Caroline became Mrs. Joe Dirsa. their optimism, and their knowl- More surnames were added to the edge of fishing with them when family tree. they immigrated from Portugal Juliana, my husband’s mother, and the Azores. They shared their married David Sousa a fisher- heritage as well as the fish they man from the Azores. He went caught. Fishing continues to be fishing with Juliana’s father. When Amelia and Miguel Diego a major commercial endeavor in Captain Miguel Diego died sud- Provincetown, right alongside denly, David Sousa had to earn tourism. money with the Fanny Parnell to My late husband was a fisher- support his family and his mother- man with Portuguese ancestry. in-law, Amelia. Another odd Every family has roots, a tree family story is that Amelia later with branches full of interesting remarried a man with the same characters. I married into a family last name as her first husband. She with deep roots in the commu- married two men named Diego. nity. David’s great-grandmother, Life was not easy in those days. Amelia Costa was a widow There was hardship, illnesses, who came from San Miguel in and sadness. They had endured the Azores with three daugh- the Spanish flu that killed sixty ters: Mary, Amelia and Rose. people in Provincetown. WWI, She married a widower named The Sousa Family, Juliana, David, the Great Depression and WWII Joaquin Silva. They added Helen, Robert, and David Sousa brought more hardship, but the Florence and Clara, as well as families endured through fishing. Albert and Louis to their blended There has always been a question The work was demanding, ardu- family. Both sons became fisher- about his last name. Some say ous and dangerous. Fisherman men and then lobstermen. Each Diego, but on the headstone at measured their income in pennies daughter married local men with St. Peter’s Cemetery it is written per pound. names such as: Silva, Cordeiro, Diogo. In the 1938 Provincetown Life in the 1930’s and 40’s had Costa, Reis, and Diego. As you Fishermen’s Association ‘s First few conveniences. Still Juliana can see, it is difficult to keep track Anniversary Ball booklet it is and David Sousa were able to of all the relatives. spelled Diego. No matter the save enough for a down pay- To quote my husband, “Be spelling, he was a Portuguese ment on a house on Pearl Street. careful what you say about fisherman and owned the Fanny The price of their home was five someone, they may turn out to be Parnell. thousand dollars. Juliana and a relative.” David’s grandmother Many families in Provincetown David had three boys. Their first was also named Amelia. She were large, some with ten and son died at five years old in a married Miguel Diego a fisher- twelve offspring. Amelia and childhood accident. The second man born in Lisbon, Portugal. Miguel had six children: Mary, son Robert was born a few years
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Share the 11 Heritage her way home from a doctor’s appointment in Boston. She was six months pregnant. Sadness seemed to follow the fam- ily. Juliana lost her second son Robert when he was eighteen years old. A private in the US Army, his death was ruled an ac- cident. Juliana’s second husband, Herman Dutra was kind, gentle and a thoughtful dad. He adopted Miguel Diogo David and taught him about me- And on a few occasions he was chanics and how to build things. David Sousa reclining in boat bunk known to land in Provincetown Juliana never wanted her Harbor, bringing his seaplane up surviving son to be a fisherman. later and then along came to the dock at Angel’s Landing, She felt it was too dangerous. David. Tragedy struck again on named for his daughter, Angel Instead Dave (Sousa) Dutra a June afternoon when a fire Diogo. He served his country went to a trade school to learn broke out aboard the Fanny in two separate branches of the mechanics and auto-body repair. Parnell. David Sousa put out military in two different wars. David worked for a short time in the fire, but suffered from toxic Michael was a pilot in the Army the car repair business, but the smoke inhalation. He died leav- Air Corp during WWII and desire to be a fisherman never left ing Juliana and two sons. She when the Korean Conflict broke him. Maybe there is a gene that had no job, no insurance and a out, he came out of retirement, is inherited, maybe it was how house that had a mortgage. She and joined the U. S Air Force as a young man defied his parents, was told by the bank to sell her a pilot. Captain Michael Diego or maybe it was the Portuguese house. Her brother Frank was a was buried at Arlington National ancestry, but he wanted to be Provincetown businessman and Cemetery with full military a fisherman. Growing up in supported her financially until honors in 2018. “Thanks for your Provincetown surrounded by wa- she married Herman Dutra. service great-uncle Mike.” (Bob ter and boats, David hung around Over the years, Frank Diego Dutra) the wharfs. He made trips with owned many Provincetown res- the weir fishermen in their dories taurants including the Ancient and went out on the fishing boats Mariner, Scott’s Chowder House, whenever he had the opportu- and Peter’s Hill, where the cur- nity. David worked as a fisherman rent Seamen’s Bank stands in for over fifty years. North Truro. He was a generous, I’m happy to report that the flamboyant gay man who sup- fishing gene has been passed ported his family and community. down. Our son Robert Dutra Michael Diego, the youngest owns his own fishing boat, the son in the family was a remark- Rolex. It is named after the next able man. He was the driving The Diego family was tight generation of children in our force behind the Provincetown knit. They visited each other, family: R for Ryan, OL for Olivia, Airport, going to Washington, went to Saint Peter’s Church and EX for Alex. Bob works hard DC with a petition. Captain together, and celebrated holidays and loves fishing, just like his Mike used to land his seaplane in together. And they mourned father, grandfather, and great- Pilgrim Lake, the body of water together when Mary died in a grandfather before him. next to Rt. 6 in North Truro. plane crash off Race Point on
Share the 12 Heritage Boston Provincetown White Plains Ground transport included. NYC Fly us to the local color. Next time you celebrate P’town’s rich heritage, remember there’s no faster way here than by hopping on a flight from Boston or New York. Book online today. Your wings to the Cape and Islands. capeair.com 800-CAPE-AIR
Share the 13 Heritage “The Town That ‘Grew’ Me” By Mel Joseph Dad and son PaPa and VaVa PHS 1964 Class D Championship Over the years I have always a smock apron and old ‘grandma’ methods. Who remembers the referred to Provincetown as: shoes. classroom game; ‘Can I’ or ‘May “the town that grew me”. Veterans Memorial Elementary I’? Use it correctly and she would This is a short list of people, School ‘cook’, Aunt Fanny: my serve you up a wish of your choice places and sounds from my father’s godmother, but a ‘grand- as a reward. “Conventional” Provincetown youth of the mother’ figure to every child she teaching methods be damned. 1950’s and 1960’s. These served and touched. No matter Freeman Watson: guiding the influences watered my roots, who you were, she made you feel Little League White Sox through pruned my limbs, and helped like you were in your grandmoth- losing season’s and teaching me me to bare life’s fruit. er’s kitchen. Love; cradled in a to accept defeat with grace, but spoonful of meat covered mashed to never let myself get used to “The People” potatoes. it. And a good effort rewarded VMS custodian, Jimmy Sants: with a Dairy Queen soft serve ice My father [Molly], rowing me what kid didn’t feel safer with his cream. and my mother out to ‘The Point’ caring presence in their lives. He Steve Goveia: From summer in his shallow draft dory, aptly was more than just ‘the guy’ that ‘Morning League’, to swimming named; ‘The It’ll Do’…these kept the boiler running. lessons to Coach Goveia’s PHS summer adventures sadly came to Miss Jean: my Cub Scout Den football gauntlet drills. He taught an end once my brother was born. Mother. She guided me through us much more than ‘sports and Jimmy Dalpe: my best friend, social growth and forced this competition’. He taught us to and why I survived my child- painfully shy boy out of his shell. earn respect and give respect. hood. I was his left hand, and he A scout is “trustworthy, loyal, The entire 1964 PHS was my right. Within the narrow helpful, friendly, courteous, kind, Championship Basketball team: bubble of our friendship, nothing obedient, cheerful, thrifty, brave, what young Provincetown boy could go wrong. Or was it that clean and reverent”. These words didn’t want to have a jump shot everything would go wrong, and memorized, and to be guiding as sweet as Johnny Colley, or the we would rise or fall together as cornerstones for a lifetime. bullheaded tenacity of Kenny best friends. 5th grade teacher, Mrs. Grace Segura in the paint? Or Eddie My Va Va: Love wrapped up in Collinson: her quirky teaching Veara’s smooth jump shot from
Share the 14 Heritage “Everyone has a place here. There is an experience you can have here that you can’t have anywhere else.” - Emily Visit Ptowntourism.com and plan your stay today!
Share the 15 Heritage Cheerleaders Adam’s Pharmacy the corner? We all got to dance ‘crime’ of my life [14 years old] ’68, he said something to this [as PHS fans] on the Boston and a caper, that still to this day, 16-year-old young man that has Garden parquet that day. is fondly embellished by Jimmy stuck for a lifetime; “I treat my Doc Hiebert: whose not so Dalpe and me, with smirks, smiles employees well because they will gentle repair of a broken nose, and belly laughs. All of this at then treat my customers well”. I shot a flaming pain up my fore- the expense of old man Nelson’s have worked for employers that head, down my back and out my [Market] pocketbook. We didn’t both understood this and those butt…before his usual gruff re- get hired back the next summer. that did not. Which ones do you sponse; “You’ll be OK now, son”. English teacher, Phebe Rogers: think were the best? Arthur D. Roderick, I may have been befuddled by the The entire town folk of Recreation Dept.: recognized that prose of Lady of the Lake or the Provincetown: a working village this young boy had a vision prob- overly wordy Ivanhoe, but I heard of families; those of the same lem and arranged for this poor kid her loud and clear when she blood…or otherwise. “I know to get a pair of glasses from Dr. preached that you can say more your father”, meant I was in Berman…charity, from a caring with less. One or two well-chosen trouble. man, presented to my proud par- adjectives, over many repetitive ents with a discreet dignity. Now descriptions. And for those that “The Places” I could see Pony League catcher still say, ‘these ones’, shame on Jimmy Dalpe’s signals behind the you…it’s ‘these and or those’ and Perry’s Market, Cabral’s, Joe plate. drop the ‘ones’. Marshall’s, Nelson’s, Kermit’s, Paul Days: an inventive young There was Ronnie Holmes/ and Tillies: If one didn’t have man that masterminded the A&P Manager: the summer of your needs, the other did. And Phebe Rogers Graciette Leocadia “Grace” Gouveia White Sox Collinson Coach Goveia
Share the 16 Heritage BY&D Insurance Agency, Inc. Benson Young & Downs Serving all your insurance needs Celebrating Our Portuguese-American Heritage Ferdinand Salvador It isItan is an honor honor to dedicate to dedicate our effortsfor our efforts forthe the Portuguese Portuguese Festival to Festival to our our Mom and Dad, from ancestors, as whom well we were as to ourtaught tofriends andlove and work hard, neighbors. laugh. www.BYandD.com WWW.BYandD.COM 56 Howland Street, Provincetown 02657 • 508.487.0500 15 Briar Lane. Wellfleet56 Howland508.349.6311 02667 Street, Provincetown MAHarwich • 565A, 02657 • 508 Port487-0500 02646 508.432.1256 15 Briar Lane, Wellfleet, MA 02667 • 508 349-6311 565A Route 28, Harwich Port, MA 02646 • 508 432-1256
Share the 17 Heritage all done with a smile and a pat It is our granite rock, as much as on the head or a playful ‘shoo- the family that helped us to stand ing you away’ from the candy on our own two feet. All our lives counter. Well worn, random were played out in the shadow of pine board floors and the sound the Monument. of a slamming screen door. Hires Root Beer, Orange Crush, and a “The Sounds” Twinkie. A handful of pennies or a nickel still went far. The ‘clackity clack’ of the Adam’s Pharmacy: meeting carts filled with fish climbing the at Adam’s was the place to be, tramway to the third floor of the the place to meet your friends… West End Col’ Storage. your girlfriend. To have a vanilla The sounds of the Town hall or cherry coke and split some Nabs. clock chiming noon and running Spinning endlessly on the soda home for lunch before the 12th fountain stools, to the hum of the The Monument: go anywhere clang. The long wail of the noon celeste green frappe machine whip- in town and it can always be seen. whistle fading as you take your ping up its concoction. A clear sight Within our 3-mile by 3-mile exis- last strides into the kitchen. through the on-street windows, tence, it casts a shadow of safety. The rumble of a dragger’s looking for a passing ’57 Chevy, full diesel engines on idle, echoing of high school friends, cruising Front through the morning fog. Street on a Friday night. “Don’t be shy, don’t be cheap, The Point: here comes the chuck your nickels so I can eat”. Jimmy Boy, Sea Fox, Capn’ Bill “Chuck a nickel ‘ovah’”. Tourist and more. Steaming in to off load entertainment, a local kid’s fun- their catch. The melodious sound filled employment. of the gulls following them in. Saturday PHS football games The Community Center: and the sweet sound of loyal Saturday afternoon 10 cent movie cheerleaders: “We are the fisher- thrillers; The Scorpion, The man, the mighty, mighty fisher- Werewolf and The Day the Earth man, everywhere we go, people Stood Still. After school crafts. want to know who we are…” Papier Mache giraffes and woven And we were always proud to ‘gimp’ into jacket zipper pulls. tell them! The Provincetown Movie Grease Pole ‘68 Theater and the smell of popcorn and bubble gum rubbed around on the bottom of my sneakers. Freeman’s Wharf: the ‘gurry pipe and the pungent smell of our childhood ambrosia and a hot fishing spot for dangling a line by local boys. The trolley clacking its Jimmy Boy way to the ‘last tie up’. Molly [my father] at the wheel. Old school trap fisherman hard at work at end of day.
Share the 18 Heritage 25th Annual Festival 2021 Fishing Boat Victory II Painting by Derek Macara Festival T-Shirts will be available for sale at Marcey’s Oil Booth on MacMillan Pier starting in June, and at the Festival Booth in the Stop & Shop parking lot from Memorial Day Week-end until Festival Week-end, June 25, 26, and 27. Festival T-Shirts will then be available in Portuguese Square when the booth moves to the corner of Ryder and Commercial Street by Town Hall. provincetownportuguesefestival.com/ facebook.com/ProvincetownPortugueseFestival/
Share the 19 Heritage The Unseen Provincetown William Dearborn Hersey, from Inside Provincetown, 1966 C ourage and creativity constitute the real were captains of whalers and of clipper ships roam- character of Provincetown. Unseen to the ing distant seas and ports in search of commerce. casual visitor who may form his impres- Many a house in Provincetown holds relics of the sions by the observation of the people that crawl days when sails and whales shared the throne of out of the nation’s woodwork and walk the streets of commerce. Provincetown in the summer, this courage and cre- The exploits of Admiral Donald B. MacMillan, a ativity were nurtured here long ago and still send the native son of Provincetown have filled minds and powerful influence of their silent example throughout museums with memories and mementos of a lifetime the world. of daring arctic exploration. At the age of ninety- First, there is the courage of the men, who as one, his sharp eye still scans the harbor as his alert the Bible says, “go down to the sea in ships and do mind does its history. business in great waters.” They must be prepared to The courage and ingenuity of the seafarer have face sudden and unpredicted storms and to make it their counterparts in the minds of the artists and back to port on their own. They share an experi- writers. They set sail upon the uncarted seas of the ence that few others are called upon to face in our mind. Here “ingenuity” is described as “creativ- mechanized age – the bare-handed encounter with ity”, and it is this creativity and courage that has the furious forces of elemental nature. They dredge become increasingly evident since the great painter, the deep in constant competition with the Russian Charles Hawthorne, came under the spell of the fleet, and summer and winter there flies from every unique light in the Provincetown area and founded masthead the unseen banner “Courage.” a school of painting over fifty years ago. Today Many of the landlubbers of Provincetown have Provincetown is one of the great art centers of the the unusual background of the seafarer. Some world. At about the same time that Hawthorne was have come ashore and now operate motels, res- doing his early work, a young playwright, Eugene taurants and other establishments. The ancestors O’Neill was bringing his courage and creativity into of others were sailormen as far back as sixteen focus in Provincetown. Fifty years ago, one of his twenty when the Mayflower made her first landing plays was produced for the first time on a wharf in in Provincetown. In the great sailing days of the Provincetown. nineteenth century, their grandfathers and fathers The challenge facing the seafaring man, the Hawthorne teaching on the pier; Pilgrim Monument and The explorer Donald MacMillan, 1926 Provincetown Town Hall in the background. Photograph by Leslie Jones, Boston Public Library
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Share the 21 Heritage Harry Kemp Eugene O’Neill artist and the writer were captured and capsuled can lie on a dune with the entire mass of another strikingly by the great poet of the dunes, Harry earth beneath your body and with no focus for the Kemp, in his poem “Ultimate Challenge.” He wrote: eye in the blue above this side of infinity. In the spring and fall you can stand alone on the great Especially if their lading by a dream beach pondering the inevitable and eternal tides, Ships must go lonely if they’d voyage far; sharing the fury of the storms, witnessing the Feeling the upsurge, through each brace and beam ancient battle of the sea against the land, of the el- Of fuming oceans; top and a shrouded spar emental against the emerging and feel that peace of Set to the following of a single star! mind and spirit that come from the contemplation There’s no safe compass when the hidden gleam of solid and grand ideas and elemental forces. Sits behind clouds, and when blind tempests stream, In my profession, I travel up and down the Cape, Except the guiding laurels faith would wear! but always the road leads at last to Pilgrim Heights There often bide black gales and bursting beams, and the unsurpassed view of Provincetown cradled And sails that fly in rags from broken spars: in the crescent of sea and land with the Pilgrim There are no charts for ships that follow dreams Monument standing like a queen surveying her And crowd up sail against the beckoning stars: domain. Don’t sign aboard – unless you’re certain you And always I think, “Here indeed is a modern Can dare a wreck, and deem it glory, too.” golden crescent of creativity and courage, the nar- row town with the broad mind still sending forth The prolonged influence of the land and the sea its constructive and unseen influence into the ideas is another powerful yet unseen influence of this and ideals of the entire world.” unique area. I say unseen because the casual visitor rarely gets a chance to enjoy the solitude as well as William Hersey chose Provincetown as a place to live the might of the sea and the dunes. When the dunes and work for many years. He was an investment sales- have lost their summer sprinkling of humanity, you man by vocation, and a memory expert by avocation.
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Share the 23 Heritage The Next Generation Flyer’s Boat Rental and Boat Shop Continues with Noah Santos at the Helm T he Santos family has a and his crew worked out of our long and rich history in back shop. The building behind 94 the boating traditions of Commercial Street was filled with Provincetown. “Flyer” Santos, a tools, machinery and a beehive of custom boat builder, and master activity! Repairing boats and renting sailor began this family’s journey them in the summer. Across the on the water by renting sailboats street was the beach. Who needed a and motorboats, building a home playground when you had all that!” at 94 Commercial Street, as well In 1978, Francis John took over as a marine railway and cradles the business, becoming president, on the beach across the street and bringing a new and different from his house. He lived with his energy into the running of the wonderful wife and life’s partner, boatyard. He created the Long Irene, until she was into her late Point Shuttle, expanded the 80’s. It was in this rambling house rental fleet and mooring field, that they raised their growing and made the transition from a family, his sons James, “Jimmy”, commercial enterprise to leisure Arthur Joseph, “AJ”, Francis John, In 1978, Flyer retired, although boating. Flyer’s Boat Rentals “Grassy”, and daughters Janet, he kept continually busy. He continued to flourish through the Dorothea, “Dora”, and Patricia. says, “No one ever sees me sit still. dedication and determination Francis “Flyer” Santos lived in this When no one could find a job, I of Francis John, with help from house across from the sea until he had, five, six and seven. I was his son Noah. In 2007, “Grassy” was 100 years of age, a life well- always flying around,” Santos said. Santos suggested that his son lived. “My nickname Flyer means day Noah, take over the business, The success of his business and night worker, always on the continuing the family tradition led to the purchase in 1949 of move. Always”. He did work, day of his father and his grandfather. Good Templar Place which and night, building, by hand, the Noah had graduated from Cape became known as Flyer’s Boat half-scale model masterpiece of Cod Technical High School, then Rentals. “Flyer” was a legend in the well-known Provincetown joined the Marine Corps Infantry his own right, and his love for haddock schooner Rose Dorothea. in 1998. In 2003, he attended Provincetown, and his contribu- It proudly occupies today, Cape Cod Community College, tions to the community he loved, the children’s section of the receiving a degree in Criminal as a selectman, fireman, and Provincetown Public Library. Justice. He taught for a while, board member of many organiza- Flyer’s son, Francis John had then became a dispatcher for a tions, are unrivaled. The West grown up in the family business police department. It was at this End Racing Club was one of his repairing and using boats, even at time when he was working as a favorite endeavors and countless 5 years old, running a skiff with a dispatcher that his father Francis numbers of children have learned 3 horsepower Evinrude. “Grassy” John offered him the position at to sail and have a love of the sea eventually built his own beautiful Flyer’s Boat Rentals. With his in their lives because of his dedi- sailboat at his father’s boatyard family’s maritime background, and cation in making sure they knew called the “Shrew”. “My child- his life as a child on the water, how to swim and be safe at sea. hood was unique” he said. “Dad which Noah says about his boys
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Share the 25 Heritage now, is that it is “the only way assistance program serving Cape a member of the local Volunteer to grow up!”, Noah felt that this Cod Bay and is president of Fire Department. Noah’s father opportunity would be a perfect fit TowBoatsUS which he estab- Francis John is usually around as for him. lished in Provincetown in 2010, an interested bystander, as well Apparently, Noah, the third in Chatham in 2014, and Bass as all the people who are part of Santos to run the boatyard, has River in 2016. Captain Noah this thriving business. Noah says become exactly that right fit as Santos competently services these the boatyard is, and always has V.P. at Flyer’s Boat Rental and boating areas 24 hours a day, 7 been, “a very positive place to be, Boat Shop. Noah has added to days a week aiding and offering and everyone involved here shares the fleet of rental boats, expanded assistance for whatever your ves- a healthy respect for the work ethic the daily Long Point Shuttle, sel’s needs may be, whether it’s to and the boating life.” with sunset cruises and as well be recovered, re-floated or towed. With Noah at the helm, Flyer’s as special event options, added With its sophisticated equipment, Boat Rental and Boatyard is in pontoon boats and kayaks, and the company is able to contain very capable hands, and likely his has expanded the boatyard’s dock spills of fuel and oil. His grandfa- young sons, with all their experi- storage facility. This 150-foot ther would be immensely proud of ence at the boatyard, in sailboats, dock expansion completed over his grandson’s very high standards motorboats, and tow boats, have the past two winters, which on land and sea. learned by example, from one involved the addition of 60 more Noah is definitely a “hands-on” generation to the next, and may boat storage spots, makes way for businessman and is consistently one day be interested in carrying the next generation of boaters. at the boatyard with his uncle on the family tradition that their Noah has become a part of the Jim Santos and his three sons, great-grandfather began so many National Fleet of TowBoatsUs, Myles, 15, Mason, 14, and Max, years ago. a rapid response marine 9, except when he is called in as
Share the 26 Heritage The murals on view throughout the Provincetown Inn are authentic scenes of old Provincetown and its people. Flyer’s Boat Yard: The constructed boat model was here in 1935. Don Aikens of Weymouth, Mass., who was in charge of the Interior Design and Decoration, completed the painting of the mural around the boat in the 1960’s. Pictured is a Trap boat, a Cat boat, and traditionally constructed Scallopers and Trawlers. Photographs by Nancy B. Silva
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Share the 28 Heritage A Letter from Josephine Del Deo to Francis “Flyer” Santos Flyer’s Birthday Celebration September 10, 2014 Today, the 100th birthday of wharf needed rebuilding in the far from his home on the water’s Francis “Flyer” Santos, I am copy- 1950’s, and his knowledge and edge. Here, he has lectured and ing a tribute I wrote 10 years ago on expertise were brought into play demonstrated the skills needed to his 90th birthday in anticipation in its supervision. be able to sail and to swim to the of his being cited by Portugal for His lifelong career as a master young people from the ages of 8 his lifelong contribution to the boat builder in the town and his to 14 every summer for fifty years. community of Provincetown and operation of a successful boat- Today, the West End Racing Club to his Portuguese Heritage. yard, over many years, made an membership averages approxi- enormous contribution to the mately 150 during the months of T he Portuguese community fishing industry. He has either July and August. The wonder, for of Provincetown is one built or repaired, with great skill him, of teaching the young the of the oldest and greatest and integrity, a large portion of moral values of life, while at the fishing communities in America. the fishing fleet. same time, giving them lifelong It boasts a long history of the men Late in life, in 1977, he aquatic skills is totally rewarding. who have gone down to the sea in brought his experience in boat To this man of unceasing ships, and their combined record building and his love for his energy, enormous vision and is extraordinary. None of them, heritage to the building of the integrity and personal pride in however, have had a record that is half-scale model of the famous what he does and in what he more interesting, varied or produc- Provincetown fishing schooner, has accomplished, the town the tive than Francis “Flyer” Santos “Rose Dorothea,” the largest half- nation, and his ancestral home of who will be ninety years old in scale model of a fishing schooner Portugal owe him both recogni- September 2004. He is a man for in the world, which he completed tion and gratitude, for a man such all seasons; a man for all times. after eleven years of arduous labor as Francis “Flyer” Santos who He is a native of Provincetown, and which was dedicated to the points the way to a better future, but a citizen of the world like his Provincetown Heritage Museum to a sounder way of life, and to an famous Portuguese ancestors, men on June 25, 1988. The story of enduring humanity. of discovery and of incredible skill. this Herculean task was given In 1968, I dedicated the follow- He has been enamored of the sea without recompense as a memo- ing poem to “Flyer” on the occa- all his life. Although his parents rial to his Portuguese heritage and sion of the launching of his boat, were born in this country, his to the people of Provincetown, the “Columbia”, a beautiful sloop grandfather came from the island past and present. which he had crafted for many a of San Miguel in the Azores and “Flyer” Francis Santos believes sailing Saturday in Provincetown arrived in America as a striker in people and has never ceased Harbor. I include it here as my aboard a whaling schooner at the in his attempts in every aspect personal tribute to a man with beginning of the 20th century. of his life, to make the world a whom I shared the dream of In his long life in better place. No stronger proof building the “Rose Dorothea” Provincetown, he has served of this could be demonstrated and for whom I have the most the town in a number of official than by his fifty-year commit- profound respect. capacities and in many meaning- ment to maintaining a sailing and ful ways. He was a selectman at swimming club for all the young – Josephine Del Deo a critical moment when the town people of the community not
Share the 29 Heritage A Man and His Boat Josephine C. Del Deo, Founding Chairman of the Provincetown Heritage Museum to Francis “Flyer” Santos His world begins here in an empty cradle Holding the shape of hulls against the sky. Waiting to snuggle up a boat then slip it back to sea. Rib-cage poppets rise above a maze of yard, Deliberate confusion of the trade Where the sea gulls stalk at ease, And where he talks, talks of the sea. The tools that lie in readiness, as if awake, Live by his summoning to make the dead oak Quake beneath the quick and shivering sail. Nothing he keep sleeps, But speaks the dialect he taught them – Ship’s talk – to build a ship. The man is true, Heart’s keel beneath him, Balanced by work, he lives close to the wind. The ship he made, he launched, he loves, he sails. I cannot tell you more that needs my telling.
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Share the 34 Heritage Painting by Provincetown artist John Mendes. Courtesy of the Seamen’s Bank. The Victory II LIFE AND LOSS at SEA “The sea that calls all things unto her, called them...” –Kahlil Gibran Story by Nancy B. Silva, in collaboration with the Macara Family Blessing of the Fleet Breaks Garrard who has conducted the cer- Bishop’s blessing.” (Provincetown All-time Attendance Record emony for a number of years, had Advocate Public Library “One of the largest crowds ever been scheduled to officiate this year. Archives) recorded thronged McMillan Wharf While crowds jammed the wharf, O Sunday for the 1965 Blessing of other guests on the fishing vessels n these bright and beauti- the Fleet, as the gaily decorated or in small harbor craft, added ful days of the Blessing of fishing fleet passed the wharf in numbers to the many thousands the Fleet, when every- procession to receive the blessing congregated here for the colorful one’s hopes are so high for the of the most Reverend James L. event. The Victory II, skippered safety of their loved ones and their Connolly, Bishop of the Fall River by Capt. Manuel Macara, led vessels, it is very difficult to com- Diocese. The Bishop’s visit here was the procession of the vessels, that prehend some of the dangerous a surprise since Auxiliary James J. one-by-one slowed to receive the and life-threatening conditions
Share the 35 Heritage that many Portuguese fishermen without difficulty, and the Queen encounter in their daily lives on Mary, Captain Anthony Russell, the sea. blown ashore at beach Point was “A southwest storm with roar- refloated Sunday morning on the ing winds and raging seas, bat- high tide, assisted by the Race tered this Cape town Friday night Point Coast Guard and towed off and Saturday morning, leaving by the DUKW. A bulldozer had in its wake three fishing boats dug a trench to assist this opera- blown ashore, tree limbs and tion. Captain Anthony Russell’s debris washed in by the high tide Queen Mary was refloated on a cluttering low-lying places along high tide, assisted by the Race Commercial Street, flooded cel- Point Coast Guard and towed lars, and damage along the beach off by the DUKW. A bulldozer Point section of Provincetown had dug a trench to assist this and Truro such has not been operation. known for many years. A high Kenneth Macara, 2011 Festival event Earlier Saturday, Coast course 11-foot tide driven higher Courtesy of David Dunlap Guardsmen launched their by gale winds reported at Race DUKW through heavy seas Point Coast Guard Station at 70 The Victory II, grounded near and put the skipper and men miles, and clocked unofficially, in the Church of St. Mary of the aboard the grounded 60’ Victory town, sent huge waves battering Harbor, was refloated Saturday II. Captain Manuel Macara’s the shore. At times during the morning with the assistance of 60-footer foundered close to the storm the East End breakwater Race Point Coast Guardsmen church of St. Mary of the Harbor. was completely underwater. Total who braved heavy surf in their The combined effort of Coast damage to Provincetown from DUKW to put fishermen aboard, Guardsmen and seamen aboard the storm has been unofficially set and later assisted in refloating the the Victory II floated the vessel over $100,000 but the full extent craft. free and tied her up to MacMillan will not be known until summer Joan & Tom, captained by Wharf. cottage owners return to check Manuel Thomas, grounded a However, the vessel had devel- on damage to their property. short distance east, was refloated oped extensive leaks in the seam Courtesy of Lisa King, My Grandfather’s Provincetown
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Share the 37 Heritage VICTORY II model built by Alfred J. Silva and his son, Mark S. Silva. An eastern Rig Dragger that was rigged on the starboard side only. Built in 1944 by Manuel G. Macara in Stamford, Connecticut, it fished for ground fish, including flat fish, cod, haddock, and pollock. Victory II model is currently at the Highland House Museum, Truro Historical Society. Photos by Nancy B. Silva area, and the Coast Guard were all over the Atlantic Ocean in was complete, all Ken wanted to forced to put aboard a pump to his four years of service to his do was to “come back home” to work with the dragger’s equip- country during WWII. He spent follow in the family tradition of ment.” (Provincetown Advocate time in Casablanca, a chief port fishing as his grandfather, father, Public Library Archives) in the central western part of and uncle had done. When his Captain Ken Macara, who will Morocco, bordering the Atlantic father Manuel became unwell, be 90 years old at the end of this Ocean. Another port of call was Kenneth took over the business year, speaks of his life-long love United Kingdom’s Scotland, for his mother Inez, according to of fishing, his days at sea, and his again surrounded by the Atlantic Michael Coelho, Sr. wish to always come home. At Ocean to the north and west, Kenneth Macara became what nine years old, he said he “forced” and then African’s Algiers on fishermen commonly refer to as his father, Manuel, Sr., to “let me the Mediterranean Sea, in the a “high liner”. The National go fishing.” And, indeed, he did north-central portion of Algeria. Resource Council describes a fish with his father on the Victory A local young man was seeing “highliner” as having a fishing II every time he had a chance, as the world in a much different operation with high catch and did his brother Manuel, spend- way. Kenneth recounts how he profits. When a boat is filled with ing most of their young years out witnessed the loss of many men fish, it is quite an unbelievable at sea. Kenny graduated from during the dark, nighttime hours, feeling, and there is no doubt that Provincetown High School with in horrendous weather at sea that the Victory II filled the boat, and the Class of 1949. He was a good was many times life-threatening, everyone’s expectations as well as student and was accepted at sometimes disaster striking even a very successful fishing vessel. Boston University to continue during practice sessions on board Kenneth Macara felt it was his studies. After a year and a ship. Kenneth Macara from time to turn over the helm of the half, he said that he had enough Provincetown became part of the Victory II to his son, Kenneth II, of academia and college life. He elite Antisubmarine Squadron in as he knew quite well the love longed for the sea, and it was call- the United States Navy, where his son had for the open sea. He, ing him. He joined the Navy. he had also become an electrical himself, would continue to fish, Kenneth Macara, “born and technician. but it would be on his new boat, bred in Provincetown”, sailed When his four years of duty the Ruthie L that he had re-built
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Share the 39 Heritage and re-furbished by Eldredge were concerned with for fishing boat had not returned yet to the in Eastham. Kenneth Macara and its economic future. pier. In her recollections of that was proud of his fishing record Fishing for a living is dangerous fateful day, Darlene Macara, said aboard his vessel the Ruthie L, work, and no one knows this bet- that she had woken with a “very named after his wife, with whom ter than the local fishing fleet in weird feeling” that she couldn’t he had three children, Kenneth Provincetown who has seen more explain, just a melancholic heavi- II, Joel, and Gene. Kenneth than their share of tragedies and ness. When she drove down the referred to his new fishing vessel, lives lost pursuing a life that de- pier, she said that there seemed the Ruthie L, as the “Queen of fined them and their Portuguese to be more fishermen there than Provincetown.” The family lin- ancestors from so many years ago. usual, and they all appeared to eage was continuing the tradition On May 1, 1984, Kenneth be looking at her with a sadness aboard fishing vessels. Kenneth Macara was fishing on his boat that caused her a feeling of ap- says his history “goes all the way the Ruthie L about 5 miles away prehension and dread. Darlene back to the Mayflower.” from his son on the Victory II. As met her father-in-law Kenneth Kenneth became very involved fishermen do, he called out on at the end of the pier, and it was in and took an active role in the his radio to his son to say he was then that he spoke the words politics of fishing, becoming part heading in, and to check on the she never wanted to hear. The of task forces that dealt with the day’s catch. He was very disturbed Victory II was missing. She was Federal Government’s 200 mile and extremely distressed with overwhelmed at this disastrous limit, as well as with State fisher- no response from his son. He news. Darlene and Kenny had ies and the issues of diminishing continued on into MacMillan two young children at the time fish stock. He said very often Pier. Darlene Macara was on her of this tragedy, Crystal, 6, and that Federal and State officials way to the pier to pick up her Kenneth III, 4. would board his boat to go out husband Kenny as she always did Although Kenneth said that on fishing trips with him and his when he came home after a fish- “no one will ever know what crew to experience first-hand ing trip. It was at the end of the happened that day, but all I know what local fishermen deal with pier that she learned the devas- is that it was the worst day of my every day, and the issues they tating news that her husband’s life”. In the 1985 Coast Guard “Victory II went down on May 1, 1984, in the last of a tragic triumvirate of accidents that had claimed the lives of 14 fishermen in eight years. The victims this time were Captain Kenneth R. Macara II who was -at 28- the youngest man aboard; John Dorf, 36; and Benjamin Fernandez,33. The Victory II was active as early as 1948 under Captain Manuel Macara. That year, the boat found the wreckage of a Navy test plane. The Victory II was blessed by Bishop Cassidy in 1948. Manuel Macara was still the master in 1955, but by the time of the Vessels/Owners log (http://www.provincetownhistoryproject.com/archives/ view 4979, he’d been supplanted by his son Kenneth Macara of 72 Franklin Street. The Victory II had been blessed by Bishop Cronin in 1977, 1978, and 1980, and again in 1981 and 1983. At the Seamen’s Bank are pictures of all three vessels in the triumvirate the Patricia Marie, Captain William King, the Cap’n Bill, Captain Ralph E. Andrews, and the Victory II, Captain Kenneth R. Macara II.” --David Dunlap, Building Provincetown
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