Chasing WHAT'S A SKIER TO DO WHEN THE SLOPES DRY UP? - By Jon Jay Photos by Keri Bascetta - Valle Nevado
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OPENER Chasing By Jon Jay Photos by Keri Bascetta WHAT'S A SKIER TO DO WHEN THE SLOPES DRY UP? HEAD SOUTH TO SANTIAGO AND NEARBY VALLE NEVADO, CHILE. S K I MAGAZI NE / 44 / S PRI NG 20 18 SKI MAG AZ IN E / 45 / SP R IN G 2 018
Overview SOUTH FOR THE SUMMER THE NEXT GENERATION OF SNOWBIRDS CHASES WINTER YEAR- ROUND. JOIN THEM IN CHILE TO SEE WHAT THE FUN IS ALL ABOUT. C onsidering the altitude, the fish was incredibly fresh. Ready to eat on a plate at the base of Valle Nevado Ski Resort, the albacora—swordfish, not tuna—was likely caught within 48 hours of hitting the grill in the restaurant’s kitchen, roughly 10,000 feet above sea level. The butter- smothered plate served as an appetizing reminder of just how close the Pacific Ocean is to every part of Chile, the unique luxuries of an expanding economy, and a popula- tion’s growing confidence in all things “local.” Chile, the “skinny” South American country, is the long and narrow strip of nation that North Americans are usually introduced to in elementary school social studies class. But what’s harder to see on a two-dimensional map is how the country stretches Above: Wherever you from the Pacific Ocean to the high, snow-capped peaks of the Andes in a little more are in long, narrow than 100 miles. This dramatic relief provides opportunities to grow unique and tasty Chile, you’re never too far from the Pacific. Or Getting There potatoes, a Chilean staple and a medley of which shared the plate with the fresh sword- fish. The steep geography also results in weather patterns that dump plentiful amounts the Andes: It’s just over This summer, you're only one night away from winter. 100 miles from the coast of snow as fast-moving storms move off the Pacific and slam into the Andes. to the mountains. Right: Anywhere you can find snow and mountains, you’ll find skiing, which has been a part The Aubrey Hotel in Pro skiers, national alpine race teams, at the airport exit to pressure unsuspect- car, you'll want both four-wheel drive and of the Chilean Andes for over a century. A number of resorts close to Santiago have Santiago has a charm and vacationing families alike usually ing tourists into overpriced rides, so it's tire chains from the rental agency. (If it's seen heavy investments in recent years to become world-class vacation destinations, all its own. arrive at Santiago's Arturo Merino Benítez best to organize a shuttle ahead of time. snowing, the police will stop cars before including installations of modern high-speed lifts, fine dining, and a number of upgrad- ILLUSTRATION BY SARA MULVANNY International Airport after an overnight Upscape Tours can help if you have more they reach the notorious switchbacks ed lodging options to accommodate various budgets. The most famous ski areas, such flight from Dallas, Houston, or Miami. complicated plans, such as a wine tour unless they have chains.) as Valle Nevado, are self-sufficient and all-inclusive: Just book an airplane ticket and a Because most flights arrive in the morn- upon arrival or time to explore Santiago If you're really anxious to get straight resort reservation, and you’re good to go. ing, you'll want to reserve a window seat before heading to the ski resorts. Skitotal to the mountains and carry enough coin, In July, August, and September, North Americans are an overnight flight away from to watch the sunrise over the Andes. also offers economical airport-to-slopes Valle Nevado Heli Ski can pick you up in making full-on winter turns, almost entirely jet-lag free. Add in some time in the After disembarking, you'll likely be able rates, and runs daily shuttles from its downtown Santiago for a sub-20 minute PHOTO CREDIT young, hip city of Santiago and the world-class wine country of the Casablanca Valley, to head straight to the mountains for a Santiago offices to all of the ski resorts helicopter flight. Just don't expect to fly if and Chile is a lock for the best summer ski vacation ever. Don’t forget the great fish at day of skiing. Predatory taxi drivers wait near Valle Nevado. If you choose to rent a the weather is sour. every restaurant, even high up in the mountains. It pairs nicely with Chilean potatoes, Chardonnay, and all the skiing you can handle. S K I M AGAZI NE / 46 / S PRI NG 20 18 SKI MAG AZ IN E / 47 / SP R IN G 2 018
Santiago Patagonia Tres Pack $130 Pockets for a laptop, tablet, headphones, and battery charger kept everything or- ganized and secure while traveling. Plus the water-repellent finish kept essen- tials dry when a city park’s irrigation system surprised us. Pisco Sour Columbia Skullcandy HISTORY & Women's Alpine Hesh 3 Head- RECIPE Action Jacket phones $170 $130 The integrated Om- With a 22-hour Ah, the Pisco Sour. ni-Tech waterproof battery life, In Chile, they are and breathable rapid-charge easy to find, easier construction kept technology, a to drink, and eas- our photographer noise-isolating fit, iest to regret the comfortable, and and custom-tuned the Omni-Heat 40mm driver, next day. To make plus 100 grams of these headphones your own, use Chil- synthetic insulation made travel more ean Pisco, a brandy kept her warm while bearable. A low- distilled from shooting the always key, classic design grapes. Mistral and amazing Andean proves that Skull- Alto del Carmen sunsets. Add in candy is a grown- premium cross-dye up player in the are best for mixing. fabric for a stylish headphone market, look that worked despite the value INGREDIENTS: out on the town, in price tag relative URBAN DELIGHTS Chilean Potatoes the vineyards, and to mainstream and 2 parts Chilean on the slopes. luxury brands. Pisco SNACK LOCAL 1 part fresh- squeezed SANTIAGO: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/PROGAT DESPITE THE FACT THAT ONE-THIRD OF CHILEANS LIVE IN SANTIAGO, THE CITY Chile has seen a resurgence IS MORE LIKE A REALLY BIG SUPER-FRIENDLY SMALL TOWN. lemon juice of celebrating food endemic Lodging & Dining Egg white (or a to its uniquely slender geog- S antiago’s 6 million people live in a city that is full of life, with mountains to the pinch Santiago's budding culinary and hotel east and the ocean to the west. While the beaches of nearby Valparaiso are nice, it’s raphy, but you don't have to of powdered scene is practically European. the Andes, rising 15,000 feet above sea level, that demand your attention. There egg whites) is plenty to see in the city, which was founded in 1541 and has a distinct cultural go to a restaurant to enjoy LODGING Dash simple syrup feel. If you find yourself there for a day, waiting on a plane or a ride to the mountains, consider The Hotel Magnolia took a downtown yourself lucky. it. Tika potato chips feature mansion, built in 1929, and renovated it A metro system runs beneath the city, but it’s also easy to explore by foot. Santiago is filled some of the hun- into a hip hotel that is full of modern Shake all ingre- with more parks than one can count on both hands, and each is full of leafy green trees you’ll amenities but still gives testament to the dients without ice likely see young couples canoodling under year-round. dreds of colorful city’s unique past. first, then shake For those looking for a cultural education, La Chascona is a great spot to spend a few hours. potato variet- with ice to get a The city home of Nobel Laureate Pablo Neruda sits at the base of Bellavista, a hill just north of DINING the University District, and features an intimate look into the artistic and architectural interests ies that hail Liguria’s first restaurant (pictured), near the solid foam. Serve in a champagne of the renowned poet. After a tour of the home, ride the funicular up the hill for the “bella vista” from Chile, Manuel Montt Metro stop, features decor of both the city and the Andes to the east, or swing by The Aubrey, a trendy hotel with a piano that will give you a crash course in local flute without ice, bar that has some of the best Pisco Sours in town. and each history. If you use the original entrance, garnish with lemon Take a walk through the picturesque market at Lastarria for some souvenirs. To cap off your one is you'll literally walk through history, too. or lime wheel. day, head to dinner at Liguria for a taste of the past served in the form of fantastic authentic Chilean fare. delicious. S K I MAGAZI NE / 48 / S PRI NG 20 18 SKI MAG AZ IN E / 49 / SP R IN G 2 018
Casablanca Valley TRAVEL TIPS Upscape Tours is the only way to see Villard Fine Wines. They can customize a tour, including coastal trips matched with rides to Valle Nevado. Pro tip: Don't rent a car without a designated driver. You won't want to miss out on any of the home- Winemaker grown wine. Not to mention, a DUI in Chile CHARLIE would ruin your trip to say the least. VILLARD FACTS Frenchman Thierry Carménère is the most Villard was respon- popular red wine in sible for bringing a Chile, and its fame number of grapes overshadows many of and the first Chilean the grapes grown in Casablanca, including cooperage (wine Pinot Noirs and Syrahs. barrel) company to VIVA VINO A number of fantas- Chile. He had two tic dry white wines sons, a skier named are also grown here, Sébastien who runs including Chardonnays TAKE YOUR GAME TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH SOME EDUCATIONAL and Sauvignon Blancs. the cooperage, and VINEYARD TOURS AND WINES FIT FOR ROYALTY. Charlie, a big-wave HISTORY surfer who operates A lmost every morning in the Casablanca Valley, a chilly fog envelopes the Before the 1980s, the family vineyard landscape until it’s burnt off by the mid-morning sun or blown away farmers considered 55 miles west of by the winds of the nearby Pacific Ocean. This geographically induced the Casablanca Santiago. Charlie weather doesn’t always reach the streets of Santiago, 55 miles to the east, Valley inhospitable to but the chill, followed by the stark, dry heat, does provide ideal growing conditions for wine-friendly grapes. Villard wanted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah grapes. But families such as the introduce the wine Hire a tour company, such as Upscape Tours, to visit some of the finest wineries in Villards have put the community to the the Casablanca Valley, including the Kingston Family Vineyards (pictured) and Villard Valley on the map. It's region’s unique Fine Wines. Don't miss the Kingston Pinot Noir and the Villard Tanagra Syrah. Both now at the forefront of soil and fruit, and are some of the tastiest wines you will find in the Southern Hemisphere. Chilean wine quality. worked with his brother to age Syrah grapes in artisanal staves. Sorel Zeal Optics The result was Madson Chelsea Radium Sunglasses Tanagra. Named Boot $150 $160 The Radium features after the daughter These kicks are as Zeal's ellume of the Greek God functional as they Polarized lenses in of Wind, this wine are fashionable. No a frame made from is a testament to laces made airport plant-based Z-Resin. Casablanca Valley, security a breeze, They use propri- and a waterproof etary color-filtration the talents of the construction handled tech to pop colors, Villard family, and the mud and puddles which made vine- Charlie’s vision to found year-round at yards and moun- create something vineyards and resort tains appear even divine. parking lots. more beautiful. S K I M AGAZI NE / 50 / S PRI NG 20 18
Valle Nevado Mayer leaned back, beaming at the question. He locked his cold blue eyes with Dyer’s, and, in perfectly confident Austrian-accented English, replied: “He doesn’t stand a chance.” When we first arrived at the Valle Nevado ski resort, the sight of chairlifts, the spaghetti-like tangle of tracks spread between the groomed runs, and GOING people sliding on snow snapped us out of our wine-induced fatigue and put us back into our comfort zone. Just after checking in to the hotel, we bumped into Dyer, Sierra Swan, and Eric Sales, pro skiers creating content DOWN for the ski area and its heliskiing operation, a happy coincidence as they all had more experience and knowledge about the easily-accessible back- country than our crew did. For the next week, we stuffed our flip-flop-conditioned feet into cramped plastic shells to savor the bliss that is skiing in August. Valle Ne- THE FASTEST LIFT IN CHILE COMBINED vado offers 2,200-plus acres of alpine terrain surrounded by a number of WITH THE WORLD'S FASTEST SKIERS backcountry options, plus gates to access two adjacent ski areas, La Parva MAKE FOR A HARD-TO-BEAT WEEK. and El Colorado. Each morning began with a ride on the fastest chairlift in Chile, and then we explored different sections of the resort’s 2,657 feet of vertical drop. o you want to race?” Marcus Every day, we were treated to a variety of conditions, from perfectly D Caston asked, his eyes sparkling in the candlelight, giddy with the thought of ski-hill mischief. groomed pistes to boot-deep cold pow on easy-to-find south-facing as- pects. We never ran out of terrain to ski or ways to follow the sun for good turns. Many of the pitches were long and steep, but always adjacent to “Yeah!” replied fellow pro skier Lynsey Dyer, bail-out areas to rest our seasonally confused legs. her smile electric after a day with Valle Nevado Exploring the vast mountain kept us preoccupied by day, and the re- Heli Ski. “I’d love to ski their course.” The two sort’s accommodations by night. The majority of visitors stay at the stood up simultaneously to propose the idea iconic Puerta Del Sol Hotel, the resort’s tallest building, which features to the Austrian Men’s National Alpine Team a signature checkmark shaped roof. We mingled with guests at all three coaches, who were finishing their three-course hotels throughout the week, however, as the primary resort nightclub is dinners on the other side of the restaurant. located in the economical Tres Puntas hotel, and the many restaurants are In the end, Dyer decided not to race, but dispersed between Puerta Del Sol and the high-end Hotel Valle Nevado. instead to be in Caston’s support crew. He would None of the other international guests we met, however, quite compared need the help. The professional big-mountain with the Austrian Men’s National Alpine Team. skier had just challenged the best downhill Above: Hillary Saunders airs it out at Valle Neva- Athlete Tip ski racer in Austria, and the coaches gave the go-ahead. The morning of the challenge, we met up with Mayer and the Austrian Na- do Resort. Below: Monte Bianco Ristorante has ERIC SALES The day before, just after the van crested the tional Team as they prepped for their training runs in the hours before the awesome pizza. "If you arrive to Valle Ne- 40th switchback and the wisps of snow started resort opened to the public. The training process was intense; watching blowing across the road, it had finally started to vado in a melt-freeze cy- feel like winter. Earlier that morning, as we drove cle, the southwest-facing from the Hotel Magnolia in downtown Santiago to the highway, a brisk, gray chill engulfed the slopes might not warm up city. Looking east, beyond the palm trees in the city parks, the snowcapped Andes seemed until the late afternoon." In to be an illusion, a mirage to our summer- the Southern Hemisphere, fatigued eyes. The highway ascended into the foothills, the it's the south-facing slopes palm trees gave way to cactus, and eventually that hold the coldest snow the valley split into two. We veered right, and the hilly eastbound road took a steep hairpin Valle Nevado is perched the history of the road, as they were both lying down across the van’s and the northeast-facing turn, marked by a sign that read “Curva 1.” All high above the city of Santiago. The resort sits bench seats after a full schedule of wine tasting in the Casablanca Valley slopes are the first to get of the curvas were marked by a sign, which the day before. was good because I lost count around 20. Lat- at about 10,000 feet. That night, Caston and the Austrian ski racer Matthias Mayer bet a bot- sun. Luckily, the lifts at er, our guide informed us that the people who tle of Chilean wine that the American could come within 10 seconds of the Valle Nevado are usually built the road were paid by the kilometer, so Austrian on their race course. they purposely put in as many switchbacks as “Do you think Marcus’ll come close?” Dyer asked Mayer that night at open until 5 p.m., and the possible to earn more money. Their lucrative the restaurant, a few beats after the coaches gave their blessing. We would groomed slopes are always cleverness has surely been the cause of many find out later that Mayer—the gold medalist in the downhill at the Sochi cases of carsickness. Olympics—was coming off a 2017 World Cup season that included a first- fast and fun. Follow the sun Keri Bascetta, our photographer, and place finish on the infamous Streif Downhill in Kitzbühel. He is arguably Caston, our athlete, may or may not have been the best downhill racer on the world’s best alpine ski team, getting ready to stay warm and find soft aware of the change of botanic environment or in Chile for another Olympic season. snow for the whole trip. S K I MAGAZI NE / 51 / S PRI NG 20 18 SKI MAG AZ IN E / 52 / SP R IN G 2 018
Valle Nevado the athletes felt on par to being on the sidelines with an NFL team. These are some of the best athletes in the world, practicing what they love to do. We decided to stay out of their way and enjoy the show. After each athlete got their four training runs in, a radio call went out that the course was clear and Caston could drop. Despite his impec- cable form, the fact that his Blizzard skis were much wider than the professional GS race skis quickly become apparent. It also became obvi- ous Caston didn’t wax his skis for this trip. He gave a solid effort through the steep top section, but appeared to be moving in slow motion com- pared with the Austrians skiing through the bot- tom flats. He didn’t land within the 10-second time limit. Despite this, Caston and the rest of us were buzzing, still in disbelief of what had happened. Soaking sore muscles Ode We exchanged danke schöns and high fives with in the Valle Nevado hot Mayer and the Austrian staff, and then, as if it tub after a long day on SKIER were just another day in Valle Nevado, we went the slopes. SOUP skiing in August. There’s nothing like soaking sore legs in hot water surround- ed by strangers wearing Speedos and speaking in foreign languages. But no matter how many man-kinis are in the pool, the spirit of the communal resort hot tub transcends T-shirt tans and back hair. There is no better place to K2 Electric Strafe share stories, watch Marksman EG2 Goggle Pyramid Jacket beautiful sunsets, $800 $160 $550 and catalyze With a 106mm waist The EG2’s over- The soft-yet-stretchy the dehydration and generous rocker, sized dual-spherical Polartec NeoShell process before the this ski was surpris- injected polycar- fabric was warm, discotheque opens. ing on corduroy. The bonate lens and breathable, and wa- fir-aspen-cored ski ergonomic fit made terproof. What really Hot tubs are the with an internal car- for great views in made the Pyramid melting pot of the bon braid railed on the Andes. The red stand out were the South American ski hardpack at speed. chrome lens tint little things, like world; just be sure The asymmetrical worked well on the super-soft chamois to shower before sidecut made it easi- brightest days but fleece in the neck er to turn, perfect for kept things sharp cuff and three-point getting in. Nobody legs that weren’t in when clouds moved adjustments in the wants to soak in ski shape in August. in with flat light. helmet-friendly hood. your sweat. S K I M AGAZI NE / 53 / S PRI NG 20 18
Valle Nevado PIEPS Valle Nevado Micro Avalanche Heliskiing Transceiver, $390 The smallest three-antenna Looking for more adventure? transceiver on the market, Get in the whirlybird. The PIEPS Micro features a vibration-based warning that Heliskiing in the Andes is as goes off when a signal is first awesome as it sounds. Walk detected, plus an easy-to- Guide 100 yards from the entrance read large display. Practice of your hotel, load up in a CLAUDIO with it before departure. modern B3 Eurocopter, and head straight to ski-movie-wor- IGLESIAS thy terrain. Don’t worry, you don’t have to have skills like Valle Nevado Heli Lynsey Dyer to get down, as Ski's top dog start- Valle Nevado offers a plethora ed with the resort of options for advanced skiers and above. What's more, they in 1998, joining the have permits to ski nearly heli skiing staff in every acre between Valle 2005. During his Nevado and the Argentinian 13 years of heli Atomic border. On a budget? The Backland FR 102, $600 guiding, Iglesias company offers single drops Backland Binding, $500 has raised a fam- and half-day options so you The ski is designed for can feed the need without the ily and become a off-piste skiing with soft debt, or you can go whole-hog guide ambassador rocker in the front and some with full-day and multi-day packages, starting at $6,000 for four people. The most economical way to fly is with BACKCOUNTRY for DPS skis. When he’s not guiding from the heli or rocker in the tail to allow for easy turn initiation and release. Add in Atomic’s Carbon Backbone, Light EXPERIENCES three friends; this splits the designing new Woodcore, and the low-tech costs evenly, and you’ll be guided backcountry Backland Binding, and you able to ski with your buds all alpine-touring pro- have an all-day touring day. Bonus: If the weather is THERE ARE PLENTY OF LINES BEYOND THE ROPES, BUT IT'S grams, he skis with animal that can hang in the too sketchy to fly, you can ALWAYS BEST TO GO WITH SOMEONE WHO KNOWS. Chilean backcountry. his family at the wait it out by spinning laps off resort. His passion the lifts. At the end of the day, your new friends at the hotel for skiing runs alle Nevado and its neighboring ski areas are pretty similar to deeper than most. V will be green with envy when they see the smile that only European ski stations: Leave the groomed terrain, and anything It also keeps his heliskiing can provide. goes. Because of that, ski with a beacon, shovel, and probe at all primary focus times. For those looking to ski beyond the ropes, you’ll get more on safety for the than your share of opportunities to tame spicy terrain both above, below, and all around the resorts. clients; as the Above: Taking full The most famous backcountry face is called Santa Teresa, which is the big operation is owned advantage of her heli wall of cliffs, chutes, and couloirs you drive past as you go between the tiny by the ski resort, he dropoff, pro skier Lynsey Dyer gets after it on the Athlete Tip Farellones ski station and Valle Nevado. This zone was made famous when El feels no pressure FROM TOP: ERIC SALES; COURTESY OF EDDIE BAUER Colorado chose it for a Freeride World Tour event a few years ago. To access it to fly in unsafe steeps of Valle Nevado. Opposite: Palmer Hoyt LYNSEY DYER from Valle Nevado, traverse from the top of the Andes Express across the east conditions. Instead, and Nils Preston- face of El Colorado. It’s easy to get cliffed out, or get in trouble with the police Schlebusch tour back to "My heart is in South America. Every time I arrive in if they are doing a “sting,” so go with someone who A) knows the area, and B) clients can ski Tres Puntas lift. knows Spanish. at the resort the Andes, it's always this consistent visceral feeling A one- to two-hour tour from the top of Valle Nevado or La Parva is the until conditions al- and consistently awesome conditions that make me Anclan zone, which also features dramatic chutes and couloirs, plus amazing low the heli to fly. views to the west toward Santiago and to the northeast, where the hulking Cer- feel so lucky to be there. I don't know if it's the alti- ro el Plomo stands guard. Looking for a guide? Watch for Valle Nevado Heli This accommodates his laid-back yet tude or just the place in general, but I always feel Ski's ski-tour guiding service, coming soon and complete with a rental fleet of DPS skis with tech bindings and full avy safety kits. As of press time, the opera- safety-oriented more alive. Speaking of the altitude, always bring tion still didn’t have a name, but swing by the heli skiing office for more info. style of guiding. extra sunscreen, chapstick, and hydrate properly." S K I M AGAZI NE / 54 / S PRI NG 20 18 SKI MAG AZ IN E / 55 / SP R IN G 2 018
Interconnect El Colorado Something for the whole family, especially if the family is freestyle-oriented. From the base of Valle Nevado, it’s easy to get confused why there aren’t more people on slope towards looker’s left: A steep, mogul-covered slope that faces Puerta Del Sol. That’s because you’re looking at the advanced- and expert-specific inbounds backside of El Colorado, a different resort that encompasses the dome-shaped peak west of Valle Nevado. With over 2,400 acres of terrain and just short of 3,000 vertical feet of descent, El Colorado is regarded locally as a mostly beginner- and inter- mediate-friendly mountain, a solid choice for family vacations. On the flip side, you have to ski through El Colorado to get to Santa Teresa, the steep, cliff-laden backcountry zone that has played host to the Freeride World Tour competition. El Colorado is also renowned for its terrain parks. National and junior nation- al freestyle teams come here to train on the well-sculpted jumps, rails, and mogul fields. Outdoor Tech Lange Mountain Kodiak Plus XT Freetour Boots Hardwear Charger $800 Atherm Midlayer $80 This do-anything $285 This waterproof, boot crushed vari- The key to this mid- shockproof, and ous descents with layer is the Polartec dustproof charger ease. The stiff Grila- Alpha insulation kept our electronics mid shell performed with Polartec High juiced for a week. great on the down- Loft Grid, which pin- Featuring two USB hill, and flipping points where more outlets to power the hike/ski Power insulation is needed two devices at a V-Lock system to stay warm. With time and a power switch transformed rich color options GET AROUND Athlete Tip MARCUS CASTON gauge, this compact backup battery has become a staple on every trip. it into a hike-friendly companion with a 43-degree range-of- motion. and a liquid-resis- tant exterior, it was also great for wine tasting. AT VALLE NEVADO, YOU ARE SO CLOSE TO NEIGHBORING RESORTS YOU CAN PRACTICALLY TASTE THEM. CHECK THEM OUT WITH THE INTERCONNECT PASS. "It's super easy to ski between all three resorts for endless amounts of La Parva O ne of the sweetest deals in South American skiing is the Interconnect Pass. If you book a seven-day hotel package at Tres Puntas, Puerta del Sol, or the Valle Nevado Hotel, you will receive two Interconnect Passes that provide access to the ski areas skiing. Each resort feels a Chilean vibes and unadulturated views of the city make this a local favorite. next door: La Parva and El Colorado. This opens up over 7,000 acres of terrain, little lonely on their own, plus tons of access to surrounding backcountry zones. With access to a comparable amount of terrain as Park City, the largest ski area in the United States, for two days at no additional cost, but the Interconnect Pass La Parva features longer runs than El Colorado and is a slightly shorter this deal is hard to beat. makes them all feel at- drive from Santiago compared with Valle Nevado, making it a favorite of To make the most of your time, check out trail maps the night before crossing the border into wealthier Chileans who own the condos scattered throughout the base La Parva or El Colorado, or ask around at the hot tub about the best spots to go at either resort. tainable. If you have back- area. It also gives the mountain more of an authentic, if slightly moneyed, Both ski areas can be accessed from the top of Valle Nevado’s Andes Express lift (pictured above), Chilean vibe. The expert terrain is easy to see and ski to from the top of the country experience and Las Águilas lift, which also provides the shortest approach to the Anclan but the sprawling lift systems at the other resorts—including T-bars crisscrossing beneath quad lifts—can be tricky to efficiently navigate. El Colorado is more mellow overall, while La Parva has are an expert, definitely backcountry zone. The long, rolling groomers found throughout the rest of a more diverse menu of runs, including hike-to terrain comparable to Shake and Twist, the most the mountain easily please skiers of all abilities, and are also frequented difficult runs at Valle Nevado. check out the Chiminea at by alpine ski racers from all over the world for off-season training, most The highlight of a trip to either of the neighboring resorts is a chance to check out different La Parva, then tour to the notably Lindsey Vonn. The incredible views of Santiago and the coastal on-slope amenities, including the Santiaguino-preferred La Parva. After a day or two of explor- range also stun. ing, don’t forget to pay it forward when you return with advice to others in the hot tub back at Anclan zone to ski back to Valle Nevado. Valle Nevado." S K I M AGAZI NE / 56 / S PRI NG 20 18 SKI MAG AZ IN E / 57 / SP R IN G 2 018
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