NEW ZEALAND SEA KAYAKER - The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) Inc - KASK
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
ISSN 2537-9135 NEW ZEALAND SEA KAYAKER No. 191 October - November 2017 The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) Inc - KASK
New Zealand Sea Kayaker EDITORIAL INDEX Summer is Here! EDITORIAL p. 3 The weather gods have been smil- OVERSEAS REPORTS ing on the West Coast during the Kayaking in the Gulf Islands KASK past three weeks, and the drought Vancouver Island President’s Report November 2017 continues unabated. A forecast La by Margot Syms p.11 by Tim Muhundan p. 5 Nina summer pattern augurs really well for perfect paddling conditions West Island Bits November 2017 NEW ZEALAND REPORTS on the West Coast of both islands, by Dave Winkworth p.17 BASK 20th Anniversary and Stewart Island. ‘Tis related to Bay Association of Sea Kayakers high-pressure cells forming block- THE ‘BUGGER!’ FILE by Bevan Grant p. 6 ing highs in the Tasman, generally a Motukiekie Missing Paddler lot further south than with a wet and West Coast South Island TECHNICAL windy El Nino pattern. by Paul Caffyn p.14 Rolling for Fun by John Gumbley p. 7 BOOK REVIEWS For three weeks, the sea has been Inside - One Woman’s Journey unbelievably flat, and is warming SAFETY Through the Inland Passage up; thus providing no excuses for Safer Boating Week - Wellington by Susan Marie Conrad p.19 not boogy boarding or building up Wharf Jump paddling confidence on the wave ski. by Sandy Winterton p. 8 The Lost Art of Finding Our Way by John Edward Huth With all the sunny days ahead, don’t NEW ZEALAND TRIP REPORTS review: Peter Jones p.20 forget to give your rubber deck Rotoroa Island - From Alcoholics hatches plenty of UV protection with Rehab to Idyllic Paddling Retreat HUMOUR p.21 your favourite vinyl/rubber protector by Tim Muhundan p. 9 spray. After a recent paddle on Lake Brunner, one of my hatches had to be retired after the rubber cracked Editing and Layout: Paul Caffyn severely. Annual dosing with Armor email: kayakpc@xtra.co.nz All extended its life to 25 years, but Deadline for next magazine: 25 January 2018 that first big crack (see photo) is not Proofing: Sandy Ferguson, Lynda Ferguson repairable. Fortunately Santa Claus (Conrad Edwards) brought back new KASK MAGAZINE INDEX The index from number 35 (December 1991) has been updated to No. 190 (September 2017) and has been loaded by Sandy Ferguson to the KASK website as a PDF file. The index is listed by alphabetical grouping, that is starting with B for book reviews. The index provides the magazine and page number for every article, thus allowing searching via the PDF files of each magazine on the website, from No. 35. If you want the PDF file emailed to you, get in touch. A bit late for Armor All COVER: KASK president Tim Muhundan during a recent rock-gardening island paddle in the Hauraki Gulf. His trip report and more photos on page 9. Photo: Uta Machold Page 2 Top Left: Shelley Stuart (left) and Lynn (Red) Paterson paddling into the Auckland Viaduct Basin in front of the National Maritime Museum to keep an eye on the Safer Boating Week wharf jumpers. Photo: Tim Muhundan Page 2 Bottom Left: What gorgeous poster girls for Safer Boating Week. Lynn (Red) Paterson (left) and Shelley Stuart. Lynn with PLB mounted on the shoulder strap of her lifejacket, and Shelley with her VHF radio mounted similarly. Both ladies highlighting the ‘Be Safe - Be Seen!’ message with colourful hats and tops. Photo: Duo selfie by Shelley Stuart 3
No. 191 October - November 2017 ones from the UK following his re- wards older blokes and insufficient cent trip and they arrived, individu- gender equality. In discussion with ally wrapped in Xmas paper, and Carmel Dwyer of MNZ, she ad- even better, pre-soaked in Armor All. vised there were adequate jumpers for Auckland but what about includ- Tide Tables ing paddlers? Two of our Auckland For those of you who prefer to view committee blokes volunteered, but tide tables in print format, as I do, the I dobbed in Lynn (Red) Paterson OceanFun August 2017 – August and Shelley Stuart to Carmel, not 2018 tide times are in the bookshops. only for better gender balance but There are seven separate booklets in because these two ladies are superb the pocket tide tables, from North- role models for safe paddling (See land (SU1) down to Kaikoura/Can- the photos on page 2). terbury/Otago/Southland (SU7). The Nelson/West Coast/Golden Bay in- The ‘Bugger!’ File cludes the approximate best transit My story of the drifting kayak off times for French Pass (SU6). Good the 12 Mile again raises the issue of buying at $8. See cover pic at right. when is it too early to call in a res- cue? If you recall with Dave Cook’s Safer Boating Week capsize off Plimmerton (NZSC No. Sandy Winterton again volunteered 190) locals made the call for a res- to represent KASK at the Safer Boat- cue after observing Dave in the wa- ing Week Wellington wharf jump. At our last Safer Boating Forum in ter. Although Dave had two means See his story and photos on page 8. Wellington, I had a grizzle about the of emergency communications, he annual wharf jumps and a bias to- refrained from using either one, but KASK KALENDAR KASK Kayak Fest 2018 - Wellington 2-4 March 2018 Ngatitoa Domain, Mana Learn new skills, meet new people, explore new waters From the calm of the Pauatahanui Inlet, to the surge of the Plimmerton Harbour, the KASK Kayak Fest 2018 – Wellington promises to introduce you to new places, all contained in a small area. There will be classes for learning new skills, ocean white water, boat manoeuvring, rescues, efficient paddling technique, and rolling. Visit the link for more information at: http://news.kask.org.nz/kaskkayakfest2018 Contact the event team by email: kayakfest@kask.org.nz or Noel at: artypep@globe.net.nz For those South Island based paddlers who just want to come across the ditch with their kayak, we suggest the use of the InterIs- lander as you can walk your boat on using your trolley wheels. We can meet you at the ferry building in Wellington. It just needs co-ordinating so that we know when you are arriving, and how many for adequate trailers and seating. The FAQ sheet will give details on how to contact the committee and to highlight the need for a pickup during registration. 4
New Zealand Sea Kayaker retrospectively wrote that he was briefer emails in support of the hu- of the magazine. A vivid imagination unlikely to have reached shore un- mour page: can picture the result! assisted. So the locals did make the The humour section is indeed a little right call. old school/smutty. For that reason Thanks I turn to it first! In this unleaded, To all the photographers and report Should I have made the 111 call low-fat, free-range, organic, PC, writers who have provided material earlier? I’m keen for feedback from equal-opportunities world full of for the past 12 months of New Zea- KASK paddlers. The stress of de- special snowflakes, it’s good that land Sea Kayaker magazines, my ciding to raise the alarm and then there is still a small bastion for profound thanks. The quality and paddle out to check the kayak cer- real people. choice of photos along with the high tainly raised my adrenaline levels. standard of writing makes my life What if it was a false alarm? Once In the most recent KASK magazine, so much easier. My apologies, also the call was made, and the rescue I checked as to old school/smut lev- if you have supplied material and it initiated, I lost any chance to com- els. The only hint of smut is with The has not been included to date. municate with police/rescue servic- Nurse’s Revenge! If you appreciate es and I had a fair idea of what was the humour/ or not, email me and let Enjoy your paddling this summer going to happen. me know please! and please don’t hesitate to intercede and provide appropriate advice if The Greymouth rescue helicopter One suggestion, given the propensi- you see a potential paddling catas- was over me within 20 minutes of ty of KASK committee members to trophe in the making. launching and on shore there were go straight to the humour pages, is to Paul Caffyn at least three police cars, the Grey- move the ‘Humour’ page to the front kayakpc@xtra.co.nz mouth CG RIB was tasked to head north, and there was talk of shore- KASK - President’s Report November 2017 based search parties to look for a by Tim Muhundan body. Given the volunteer and paid human resources, also the mechani- On behalf of the KASK committee (Paul, Sandy, Ian, Lois, Dave, Rob, cal resources brought into play with Shaun, Peter, Steve and myself), I’d like to wish you all safe, fun paddling a 111 telephone call, it is a tough de- over the festive season. cision to make, but perhaps it is bet- ter to err on the side of a few alarms. P.S. If you have not registered for KayakFest followed by International What do you think? Kayak week (IKW), and don’t want to miss out please take a moment to register. With over 50 registered already, the places are going fast. Check Humour out the banner on previous page and follow the instructions to register!” Does anyone have an issue with the ‘Humour’ page in the KASK maga- KASK Committee 2017 - 2018 zine. A recent email circulated to our Tim Muhundan - President email: tim@kask.org.nz committee notes it ‘is inappropriate Ian McKenzie - Committee email: mckian@xtra.co.nz and should be discontinued’. This Sandy Ferguson - Webmaster email: kayakamf@gmail.com email generated more correspond- Paul Caffyn - Publications email: kayakpc@xtra.co.nz ence from our KASK committee Lois Cowan - Committee email: loisc@paradise.net.nz members on one subject than I can David Welch - Committee email: davidjwelch58@gmail.com ever remember. Given the outstand- Peter Brooks - Committee email: peterjlbrooks@gmail.com ing quality of report writing, techni- Robert Brown - Committee email: yakityyak1@hotmail.com cal articles and photographs, I was Shaun Maclaren - Committee email: shaun.maclaren@smsl.co.nz disappointed to read that most com- Steve Flack - Committee email: steve.flack@hotmail.com mittee members went straight to the KASK Administrator (Karen Grant) email: admin@kask.co.nz ‘Humour’ page, before delving into the rest of the magazine. To reassure you, there is a vigorous vetting process for the jokes, fol- lowed by rigorous scrutiny with the KASK humour censorship board. The levels of ‘taking the piss’ and R18 content are strictly supervised. The jokes have to have a 99% cer- tainly of causing smiling and out- right laughing to occur. Life is too short not to have humour in our The poor editor, proof reading when he lives. I will include below one of the could be out paddling 5
No. 191 October - November 2017 NEW ZEALAND REPORTS BASK Bay Assn of Sea Kayakers 20 YEARS of KAYAKING by Bevan Grant The Bay Association of Sea Kayak- ers (BASK) hit a milestone this year – we have been around for 20 years! The club currently has 83 members in Tauranga/Mount Maunganui, Rotorua, Waikato and some further afield. We consequently have a wide range of trips mostly in the Tauranga Jean Kirkham entertaining the members with tales of how it was in the ‘old Harbour, Rotorua lakes or Waikato days’. Photo: Val Burns lakes. and strawberries. With good weather a very pleasant evening was had by In the last three months, BASK has promised, the registrations rolled in all. During the evening a commemo- had trips in our trip programme on – we had 57 members attending in rative dry bag was given out to ev- the Manakau Harbour, Mokau River, the end! eryone to mark the occasion and Coromandel Peninsula and Mayor then we even had a visit from Father Island. Safety is very important to Also, the club held a short trip on the Christmas! the club and during the year, we have harbour on Saturday; from Athenree pool sessions, first aid courses, han- to Matakana Island and back. A total Some even had the energy on the dling surf etc. of 38 paddlers took to the water and Sunday morning to travel up the road we were all back in time for a soak in a short distance to Waihi Beach for a We decided on Saturday 25 Novem- the hot pools. paddle to Orokawa Bay. ber as our 20th anniversary gathering and choose the Athenree Hot Springs The ‘Do’ started at 5:30 pm with a and Holiday Park as the venue. It is ‘happy hour’ during which we had next to the water of Bowentown Har- a speech by our honorary member bour, has a marvelous BBQ area able Jean Kirkham who was instrumen- to cope with a big crowd, is central tal in forming the club 20 years ago to our members and of course there about how it was in the ‘old days’. are the hot pools! The club supplied She then cut a very large anniversary the meat to BBQ, nibbles, ice cream cake - the BBQs were fired up and Jean Kirkham cutting the cake. Next to her is another club member Robin Straker. At 86 and a 1/2 years old, he is our oldest active paddler - bit of an inspiration eh? Photo: Val Burns See also page 24 for the BASK paddlers gathered for the 20th Anniversary More kayaks than you can shake a stick at. 38 to be precise. The lunch stop had to be big enough to cope. Photo: Val Burns 6
New Zealand Sea Kayaker TECHNICAL ROLLING FOR FUN by John Gumbley photos: Dennis Hynes Rolling is something I had always wanted to effectively and efficiently execute but found I was not particu- larly reliable and tended to use too much effort. That lack of being able to confidently achieve a roll, when I needed to, bothered me. I had read the occasional book and participated in a couple of group training sessions at KASK forums. I once inadvertently registered for Sweeping with eyes on the blade what proved to be an experienced rolling session where on video I had to roll on each side. Amazingly I did but seem to prefer to roll up on my of rolls falling in on the left and right it but generally I could at best roll right side. It took 3 to 4 weekly and coming up either side. Getting maybe a couple of times on one side pool sessions to roll up on my (un- the technique right though is more before failing. More often than not I favoured) left side. Initially, I was important and often when I roll I would fail and have lame excuses for absolutely confused but so long as grade myself out of 10 which helps not practising. I held the paddle towards one end it to think about how I could do better. seemed to make it easier to get the To sort myself out, I arranged a one- sweep correct. Holding my paddle in different po- on-one session with an experienced sitions, closing my eyes for 10 rolls whitewater kayaker. On my dem- The key is when upside down, to on either side, or practising re-entry onstrating a roll, his advice was to take a moment to position the pad- by falling out of my kayak on either erase from your memory bank every- dle blade flat on the surface and side and with sprayskirt unattached thing you think you know. Forget hip lean forward and to the side then then rolling up. flick etc. sweep around keeping your eyes al- ways on the blade. Not lifting your Again, take time to sit upside down The instructor taught me pool-side head means you automatically pop in your usual paddling position (feet how to position my paddle and criti- up. Giving a final stretch out when not excessively forward as you will cally sweep looking at my paddle sweeping does help and don’t take be unbalanced on coming upright) blade, twisting the torso to achieve your eye off the blade. and sweep. To be sure of a successful 120˚ plus with my paddle. Don’t roll, especially when it matters, take think about lifting your head. I tried Rolling on my unfavoured side I now your time to get that technique per- it in the pool a few times and rough find to be no harder, just requiring at- fect. It does not need to be a rushed as it was (it takes time to unravel bad tention to getting my technique right. action. Rolling is fun. habits), I seemed to do it. It is now not really unfavoured, just different. Using a local tepid pool, and ini- tially pool-side practising the sweep, Practising in a pool regularly and I found it effortless. I’m left handed taking the opportunity to roll when out and about is important for confi- dence and technique. Practising the sweep on the floor at home helps - don’t try and think what it is all about upside down in the water. Having a snug fitting cockpit is important for the top of your legs and hips. Stretching out, with eyes still on the blade ... and up Taking a moment to set paddle Sometimes I might do 100 hundred position rolls in the pool with equal number 7
No. 191 October - November 2017 SAFETY SAFER BOATING WEEK The Wellington Wharf Jump by Sandy Winterton A week before Labour weekend, Maritime New Zealand held their annual wharf jump. It’s a publicity event aimed at raising water safety awareness as part of safer boating week. The onus was on three main elements: Prep your boat: service the engine; for kayaks, that’s us. Are we in good condition? Also to generally give the The Wellington ‘cold water huddle’. Sandy Winterton at the middle of the boat a good once-over. back of the circle in the yellow PDF; next to Pania Singleton with the horns! Photo: MNZ Check your gear: make sure your A good turn out of about 30 repre- This technique warms the water a lit- PFD is still fit for purpose, service sentatives from all sorts of organiza- tle and keeps it captive in the centre inflatable lifejackets and ensure tions with concern for water safety of the huddle so everyone benefits a you have two reliable forms of was present. We were PFD’d, lined little from each other’s warmth. communication equipment. up and given a briefing then leapt in unison after the obligatory “3- Successful publicity for the cause Know the rules: ensure you know 2-1-jump” call. The water in Wel- and a bit of fun into the bargain. the rules of the road on the water, lington was about 14 degrees – well and check your local bylaws to above the 9 or so where problems make sure you understand what the arise with gasp reflexes and the old requirements are in your area. Some clamped chest feeling that increase areas have tighter PFD rules such as fatalities significantly below that Waikato; see billboard poster below: temperature. In fact the water tem- perature was pretty much midway between the general low of 10 and the average summer time high of 18 degrees in Wellington harbour. Jumpers airborne. MNZ CEO Keith Manch on the right, Sandy Winterton After the jump, we formed a ‘cold in the middle in a yellow PFD. water huddle’ by holding on to our Photo MNZ neighbours’ shoulders and lifting our legs up in the centre of the circle. The Wellington wharf jump Safer Boating Week message. Photo: MNZ 8
New Zealand Sea Kayaker NEW ZEALAND REPORTS Rotoroa Island From Alcoholics’ Rehab to Idyllic Paddling Retreat by Tim Muhundan Rotoroa Island is one of my favour- There were about a dozen of us for ite islands in the Hauraki Gulf – in the paddle organized by my adven- addition to breath-taking paddling ture paddler friend Shaun. I knew I and rock-gardening, it also has his- could not join the main group for the torical significance for recovering afternoon paddle from Kawakawa alcoholics. bay. For nearly 100 years, the Salvation With prefect weather, I planned to Army used Rotoroa Island as a re- paddle solo to meet the others on habilitation facility for addicts. Ro- the island. Unfortunately, I could toroa Island was the first and longest not make it to the island until after running addiction treatment centre, sunset, so I had pre-programmed the helping over 12,000 New Zealand destination and other waypoints into alcoholics over the years. Although my GPS watch. I also packed extra the Salvation Army closed the rehab food and a tent – just in case I had in 2005, the historic sites were pre- to spend the night in one of the bays served. on Ponui Island or Waiheke Island if there was an emergency. There is also a pretty cool visitor Sunset for Tim over the Hauraki centre and museum now showcas- The 16 km solo paddle to the island Gulf – with SkyCity a tiny blip on ing the island’s fascinating history was pretty uneventful as I passed the horizon right of the two rocks – - from its Maori and early European the small islands of Pakihi and then where the arrow is pointing history through to its many years in hugged the Ponui Island coast for an private isolation as New Zealand’s hour. I enjoyed a spectacular sunset in the dark. A quick hot shower and first and longest running addiction behind Auckland city in the distance. yummy dinner later, we were enjoy- treatment centre. ing a glass of wine and the night By the time I got to Rotoroa island, chorus from the birds as we caught I have paddled to the island about it was dark but Shaun and Andrea up with the other paddlers. The we- half a dozen times – the last time were tracking my progress, and I kas kept us entertained as the moon when we were scouting locations was greeted by a waving torch in the came out. for the 2017 KayakFest. However, I distance, as I headed for Home Bay. have never stayed on the island until The beautiful weather on the Satur- now which has good accommoda- It was a really nice feeling to have day got us all on the water early as tion with various sleeping options completed a fast evening paddle af- we headed past Pakatoa Island to- with different prices and comfort ter a hard week with a bed waiting wards Waiheke. levels. for me and no need to put up a tent Heading out from under the ferry terminal 9
No. 191 October - November 2017 Most of the islands we paddled around are farmed. We were constantly watched by livestock as we paddled. We found a dead sheep floating in a cave as well as one lost in a cave. Photo: Uta Machold Andrea (see photo at left) who introduced Tim to ‘rock gardening’ years ago, told him about the caves at Hooks Bay on the northern end of Waiheke Island. ‘When we got there, we weren’t disappointed’. Above, Janet paddling through one of the huge archways. See the photo also at bottom Andrea in one of the huge sea caves left of her big smile. Photo: Tim Muhundan After lunch, we headed for Shag Rock. The tide was just perfect with The highlight of Tim’s trip was the minimal swell. It was great to watch some of the paddlers who have never return journey. ‘As we headed back got addicted to rock gardening, pushing their boundaries and trying some to Kawakawa Bay, we paddled into of the rock tunnels. The expression on Janet’s face pretty much sums up her a giant flock of diving gannets. I was first ever paddle through a tunnel! Photo: Tim Muhundan right in the heart of the chaos, as hundreds of birds dived around me. ‘ 10
New Zealand Sea Kayaker Hazard No 3 is private ownership. We started at Nanaimo where we Overseas Reports British Columbia was obviously a could hire a double kayak and launch little slow in realising the recrea- it right there. We were provided with Kayaking in the Gulf Islands tional potential of the Gulf Islands, a kayak trolley for the asking. With and so the percentage of the area six days at our disposal, and having Vancouver Island in parks is rather small. With no to return the kayak to the same point, by Margot Syms ‘Queen’s Chain’ and private own- we did not have enough time to visit map & photos: Margot & Peter Syms ers being rather possessive, it can be the SE islands of the group, so we hard to find somewhere to stop and stopped short of having to cross The Gulf Islands between Vancouver have lunch. We often stopped in the where the shipping is busiest. Island and mainland British Colum- inter-tidal zone, or on the tiny white bia are popular with kayakers, boat- shelly beaches associated with islets. We set off on a fine morning in July, ies, and island dwellers. You can do The rocky parts of the latter were in fact we did not see a drop of rain your own trip in these enclosed shel- often home to harbour seals with all trip. We crossed to Gabriola Is- tered waters with a little local knowl- their pups at this time of year. These land, timing it to avoid the large ferry edge of what to be careful about. have had to find a niche among the coming and going from Duke Point privately-owned land as well, but do en route. Although we were sur- Hazard No 1 is currents. In the nar- seem to be thriving. It pays to know prised by how quickly a tug plus log row passages these can get up to 8 where the campsites are and to carry barge emerged not much behind us knots or more with associated ed- fresh water that will last you for a at one point. Rather than go around dies, so it pays not to be in the wrong day or two. Marine park campsites the outside of Gabriola Island into a place at the wrong time. Even wide vary but usually contain one or more brisk SE wind we opted for the in- channels can get up to 1 knot speeds, of: picnic tables, wooden sleeping side route. but if you expect this it at least makes platforms (useful for keeping your your lack of progress less frustrating. gear off the dirt if nothing else), toi- Initially the route followed lime- There is a reasonably priced annual let, potable water pump. stone cliffs with nesting shags, but book of tides and currents available. then degenerated into rafts of logs With the place names being unfa- and an industrial atmosphere. Lunch miliar, you do need to spend a bit of was at the only available landing, an time studying it. unprepossessing slippery boat ramp. Its one blessing was that it was shel- Hazard No 2 is boat traffic. This tered from the wind. We were keen ranges from fizz boats and other to be on our way and slack high wa- pleasure craft, through ferries - sized ter was a wee while off, so we chose from 32 to 370 vehicle capacity, to False Narrows because it has half great logging barges 50m by 12m the current of Dodd Narrows. As it towed by tug boats. There is an “app” was, some vigorous paddling was re- to view shipping movements live, quired. We finally arrived at Pirates and there is extensive cell-phone Cove camp on De Courcy Island, a coverage. Instead we opted for the lovely elevated site looking south ferry timetables and vigilance. Margot with our kayak preparing which we shared with two women. to leave from the hire centre by the Bats were flying at dusk. Nanaimo marina 11
No. 191 October - November 2017 Great Blue Heron, the largest heron in North America Day 2 we paddled SE along Rux- ton Island then used rocky islets as stepping stones to cross to Thetis Island as this way it was easier to keep an eye out for boat traffic. We had lunch on the inter-tidal zone at the end of Thetis Island, with a visit The tiny Cabin Bay campsite – Peter at picnic table with a view from a Great Blue Heron – the larg- est heron in North America, and 30% at one of the few feasible stopping ourselves. Having thought we knew bigger than our White Heron. Then places, Walker Hook, with a love- the ferry routes, we were a little sur- we paddled by Kuper Island and on ly long sandy beach. A bloke was prised to see a small ferry pass by, to the long thin Wallace Island which camping at one end. From Saltspring and later to pass back again. is entirely marine park. We had been we had to cross the passage to Prev- recommended Chivers Point camp, ost Island, which was rather busy in We made an early start next morn- the first one we came to, but the pres- the middle of the day, as to the south ing because we wanted to cross to ence of a 10-kayak tour group did of here are some major centres. We Montague Harbour before the boat- take the gloss off it. arrived at our camp in James Bay at ies were out in force, and also so we near low tide to find the expected ex- could launch at high tide. In fact, we The leader told us about the nearby panse of mud and weed. After trudg- saw only one boat during our cross- Cabin Bay camp which we were ing ashore with the gear, we used a ing! Montague Harbour, however, unaware of, so we pressed on. And combination of sliding and wheeling was packed with boats, and when I what a beautiful wee camp it is, two the kayak to get above the high tide asked the couple on a launch if they sites only, all to ourselves, picnic ta- line. This camp is sited in an old or- knew the long-range forecast, I was bles but no water or toilet – a sign chard, with a large grassy area, and told they did not know and that they said that the toilet was located a a couple of elevated sites with one had been sitting there in the harbour short 10-minute walk away at Chiv- picnic table. There is a composting for three days! On to our first call, ers Point. Yeah right. In this area they toilet but no water. We had lunch and the shop, where we did find a fore- like you to use the wooden sleep- a lazy afternoon, with the place to cast and could have an ice cream. ing platforms provided, but these The lady serving commented “ice are hard, too small and pegging out cream for breakfast”, to which Peter, the tent is awkward. So we camped not one to naturally spring out of bed on the wee beach, watched the tide at dawn, replied indignantly “break- come almost to the end of the tent fast was hours ago”. Next we visited and believed the tide tables that the the marine park camp to restock with night tide would be lower. fresh water. We walked up to the tap with a friendly boatie who was going In the morning, while using the to fill his solar shower. Interestingly sleeping platform as a chart table – a the same amount of fresh water was good use – I managed to spill a full going to last us for two days. cup of tea over the maps. Actually, Murphy must have been asleep be- We paddled along the rugged coast cause while the waterproof map got of Galiano Island, with a Belted covered, the paper marine chart es- Kingfisher with its punk-rock hairdo caped. Said map got rinsed off, hung always flitting ahead of us, making up and was soon dry and none the a photo difficult. After lunching in worse for wear. We paddled along James Bay- having arrived, the hard the intertidal zone of a small cove, Wallace Island and across to the very work of getting between the low and we decided to return to the gem of large Saltspring Island, and stopped high tide lines began Cabin Bay again for the night. En 12
New Zealand Sea Kayaker route we visited the south camp on Wallace Island which adjoins a boat anchorage and is notorious for rac- coons – possum sized, adroit, bold scavengers with sweet little striped faces. A revisit of Pirates Cove for our last night would put us in a good posi- tion for returning to Nanaimo the following day. We checked out the camp on Tent Island, which is on First Nations’ land not in a marine park. It is a pleasant spot, but a no- tice made it clear that you need to book in advance. Along the west coast of Kuper Island, we had to wait for the ferry to pass twice. This side of Thetis Island is quite pretty. Back across our stepping stones to arrive Peter relaxing on the shell beach of an islet near Thetis Island at a rather different Pirates Cove waiting for a small ferry to pass from a few days before. Admittedly it was the weekend, but by the time It would be fun to go through Gab- two kids’ summer camps and a few riola Passage and/or Porlier Pass, but small groups had arrived there were these have to be timed carefully as 19 single and 7 double kayaks on the slack-water currents below 0.5 knots beach. That made about three times can last for as little as 15 minutes. the number of tents than camp sites, Once through you have the option to but there was room to spread out be- paddle on the Strait of Georgia coasts yond the designated camping area. of the islands. There are a couple of By the time the ranger arrived in the camps out there. The passages can morning, the place had thinned out get quite busy because of the short considerably. duration of slack water. We were James Bay at dusk – boaties surprised to see a tug towing a huge enjoying a paddle; a SUP and No need for an early start as we had logging barge emerge from Porlier dog on a recreational kayak to wait for slack low water in the af- Pass, and one towing two barges in ternoon to get through the narrows. tandem from Gabriola Passage. We had a leisurely lunch in the inter- Useful Information: tidal between two islands but had to 1. Alberni Outpost supplied our hire kayak from their Departure Bay adven- keep an eye out that we did not get ture centre, and also sell kayak and other outdoor gear online and from their stranded by the dropping tide. stores in Courtenay and Nanaimo: www.albernioutpost.com While making lunch, Peter had a 2. BC Ferries timetables and routes: difference of opinion with a visiting www.bcferries.com/schedules dog over who he was cutting up sa- 3. Web sites with interesting info about paddling and camping in the Gulf lami for. When loud barking started, Islands: we were informed by the owner on kayakrogue.wordpress.com/tag/camping-in-the-gulf-islands/ the beach that “he never barks”. britishcolumbia.com/things-to-do-and-see/ Then later something about “an atti- parks-and-trails/vancouver-island-bc-islands/ tude problem”. We quite agreed, the w w w. w a v e l e n g t h m a g a z i n e . c o m / 2 0 11 / 11 s u / 11 s u _ l e g f o u r. h t m l dog had the wrong attitude towards kayakers having lunch. Kayak Routes of the Pacific Northwest Coast by Peter McGee. Chapter 4 The Gulf Islands, P63 to 80. You can preview most of this chapter on: Onwards, and we opted for False books.google.co.nz/books?isbn=192681214X Narrows again as the boat traffic returning through Dodd Narrows, 4. Maps - Marine chart 3442 North Pender Is to Thetis Is, and 3443 Thetis Is to which has more depth at low tide, on Nanaimo; both 1:40,000. San Juan and Gulf Islands Nautical and Recreation- a Sunday afternoon did not appeal. al Planning Map, approx 1:100,000. All available at marine and chart shops. The crossing from Gabriola Island to Nanaimo was busy but no problem 5. Recorded weather forecasts for two days available by phone 250-245- as everyone seemed to be alert. 8899. Cell phone coverage good. 13
No. 191 October - November 2017 The ‘Bugger!’ File Motukiekie Rocks Missing Paddler See also the drone West Coast South Island photo on page 23 of by Paul Caffyn Motukiekie Rocks It started with a dog barking on the some 600 metres offshore, where he ter a quick drive north to 14 Mile beach. I live right on the edge of fluffed around, no doubt setting his Bluff, and a long look at the drifting Lake Tasman and am quite protec- long line, then he headed south to- kayak with the binocs, it was almost tive of ‘my’ sea birds and the odd wards the big sea stacks of Motuk- time for the 111 call. Back at the 12 seal that comes ashore for a rest. iekie where I lost sight of him. Mile, the bloke’s car was still parked, Concerned the dog was attacking his dog was locked inside, and there a seal pup, I got the binocs out to Intermittently, as the morning wore was no sign of him on the beach. check but it was only digging holes on I would glance out to seawards to in the gravel. Then I was taken aback watch for his return. Just after mid- This was only the 2nd ever time I had to see a 30-ish aged bloke towing a day, with no sign of him, I got the made a 111 call - the other was for a plastic recreational kayak along the binoculars out and did a slow scan house fire decades ago. I asked for gravel beach. to the south. I spotted him paddling police and advised there was a miss- off the seaward side of the Motuk- ing paddler off the 12 Mile. I’d had This coastline north of Greymouth iekie Rocks, about 1500 metres to the presence of mind to note the ve- is either open surf, gravel beaches or the south, and assumed he was fine. hicle registration number and passed cliffed coastline with broad, rather that on. I advised that I was going up rugged wave-cut platforms. Not the Some 90 minutes later, still slaving to the 14 Mile and paddling out to place for cruisy sea kayaking. Apart away on the computer, I spotted a check on the kayak and paddler. from the very few serious expedi- black dot directly out from home, and tion paddlers who have landed in assumed he was back checking his Given the nasty nature of this coast- front of home (Max and Melz Grant, long line, and would be paddling back line and lack of good launching spots, Tara Mulvany and Sim Grigg, Simon into land shortly. I wasn’t unduly wor- I decided my wave ski was going to Meek and Bevan Walker) and myself ried – the kayak was back in view, but be more versatile and easier to launch training for trips when the sea is flat I didn’t check with either the binocs or than the Nordkapp. Although slower to enough, this was the first recreation- by putting my glasses on. paddle, and way more tippy, it would al kayak I had seen, so I decided to be easier to get to a launch site, and far keep an eye on this bloke. For the next 30 minutes or so, I occa- easier for me to control in surf. sionally looked seaward, and spotted It was a sullen low overcast day, with the ‘black dot’ slowly moving north, High water was at 11:57 am, so the a 5 – 8 knot south-westerly blowing with no sign of it turning shorewards tide was ebbing now, with more and over a sea that was the calmest I’d to where the bloke had launched. more of the wave cut platform slow- seen in many months, just a low surf Conditions remained unchanged, ly being exposed. breaking on the gravel beach. The but my concern began to mount that tide was on the flood, about mid-tide perhaps the paddler had capsized. With a local friend (Kay) joining so the wave cut platform (reef) was Even with the binocs, the kayak was me to spot, I donned a polypro top just under water. now over a kilometre offshore, and it with a hood, slipped into a springsuit did not look like the paddler was in (shortie wetsuit) and for the first time The kayak had a garden hose reel the cockpit. The longline reel on the ever when wave skiing, pulled on a mounted on the foredeck, obvi- foredeck was confusing, depending lifejacket. In case I needed to tow the ously I thought for a long line. After on which way the kayak had turned - kayak and or body back to shore, I glimpsing the bloke digging holes in sometimes looked like a paddler, and draped a colourful 15-metre long 7 the beach (like his dog) I was puz- sometimes not. mm rope over my shoulder. zled, but he was filling a bag with gravel, and I thought ‘anchor for a By now I had to use the binocs to After checking the drifting kayak, I long line’. spot the kayak and even that was would return to shore in the lee of becoming more difficult on the low a broad reef north of the 14 Mile, After patiently waiting for a lull in swell. It seemed that the paddler was some 1500 metres north from where the low surf break, the fella launched not in the cockpit, and was either I launched. Given the strong north- competently and powered out to sea. hanging onto the stern of the kayak erly drift of the kayak, this was the He’d obviously paddled before and or even worse, had tangled in his most logical place to land. wasn’t a complete novice. From my long line and drowned. seat at the computer, I have a pano- The launch went relatively smooth- ramic view out to sea, and was able I was starting to think I needed to ly, as I waded over the deeply eroded spot the paddler taking up station paddle out and check the kayak. Af- reef, until clear of the shore break. 14
New Zealand Sea Kayaker Paul’s trusty wave ski safely ashore after towing in the drifting kayak. Low tide now exposing the nasty wave cut platform. With occasional glimpses of the kay- ak, it seemed to take forever to reach The view south to the Motukiekie Rocks on the far southern horizon. The the kayak. My old lifejacket must drift rate with just a light sou-westerly breeze surprised Paul, so there must have shrunk severely over the years, have been a strong set also from a northward-setting coastal current. because I was breathing rather heav- system and I was feeling gutted that The kayak was a Perception Arca- ily, not quite panting, when I paddled I had made the 111 call far too late. dia 370, with one bulkhead aft of the up to the kayak. That kayak I had towed to shore now cockpit, and a small block of foam belonged to a deceased person! inside the bow. The aft compartment The cockpit was about one third full contained only a cut down plastic bot- of water. No body caught in a long Despite the water in the cockpit, the tle (bailer) and a few litres of seawa- line, which was a relief. No paddle kayak had towed really well behind ter – nothing else. The long line reel and no kit at all attached; rudder the wave ski, but boy it was a dif- on the foredeck had a length of blue damaged and hanging off the stern. ferent story when high and dry. Only fishing line wound on, but there was by standing on the cockpit rim, and nothing else - especially no paddle. Deciding I had a better than average using my full body weight to tip the chance of towing the kayak to shore, kayak on its beam end could I empty Offshore, the helicopter was still I was attaching the 7 mm rope to the the water out. Kay then came along searching, but when I climbed up bow grab loop when I heard the rescue the beach and we dragged the kayak to the highway edge, two police helicopter approaching from south. to below a viewpoint alongside the cars drew up. I advised the police It hovered well above me, and I sig- coastal highway. to communicate with the helicopter nalled there was no paddler, and indi- to search closer to the Motukiekie cated south to the helicopter to search. Rocks, as that was the last time I had observed the bloke seated in his Tying a loop around my waist, allow- kayak and paddling. ing a good three metre clearance to the kayak bow, I started a long slow After retrieving the wave ski, and paddle towards shore, with the breeze donning dry clothes, the interview quartering on the bow. Fortunately process was well underway, when the tide was still just high enough to news came through on the radio that close on the gravel beach, and with from a highway viewpoint down Kay spotting gaps in the rocks for onto the Motukiekie Rocks, a po- me from the edge of the highway, I liceman with a spotting scope has closed on the back of the surf. sighted a bloke on one of the big sea stacks, waving a paddle. Visualizing a potential spear in the back from the kayak bow, I stopped By the time I drove back to the 12 and let out another few metres of rope Mile, the helicopter had picked up the before boosting speed for the beach. paddler, and the police had dropped I was so pleased to carry the wave Safely ashore after the tow. The him back to his car. It was a local bloke ski out of the sea and then haul the long line reel on the foredeck of the from Runanga, and he was rather kayak bow onto the beach. Adrena- plastic kayak. The wave ski in the grateful I had made the 111 call. line was still pumping through my left background. So what went wrong? He decided 15
No. 191 October - November 2017 to land on the Motukiekie Rocks, The paddler did light a small fire before catching up with his kayak. and climbed onto a shelf with pad- however my 11 Mile neighbour, who His body was never found. dle in hand. Then a surge came in was most likely to have seen the and sucked his kayak away. With smoke, was away for the day. A PLB - During an attempt to paddle no paddle leash attachment to the would have worked. (The Police had around Australia back in 1992, kayak, or tether to a bow loop, he called his flatmates, after I provided Eric Stiller and Tony Brown was buggered! Then with no means the vehicle registration, and they landed on Manta Ray Island, a of communication, he lit a small fire hopefully would have reported the tiny island off Bowen on the north to attract attention, and spent several paddler as overdue by late evening). Queensland Coast. It was a balmy hours watching the resident seal and calm evening, and the boys pulled shag population. His first comment LESSONS LEARNED their double Klepper kayak named to me was, “I thought I was a goner!” For the 111 Caller Southern Cross up ‘past the line of 1. Should I have made the phone washed-up vegetation’. With their Then after advising him, where I had call earlier? In retrospect, I could overnight camp 20 yards or so from stashed his retrieved kayak, I headed have phoned earlier, after using the the kayak, they ‘couldn’t have felt home for a hot shower and a wee binocs to observe the kayak drifting more secure about our situation’. dram of medicinal whisky. north past the 12 Mile. However, if Next morning Eric was struck ‘with the paddler was in the water and had a wave of disorientation.’ Their LESSONS LEARNED tangled in his long line and drowned, kayak was gone! What made the For the Paddler the timing of my call would not have loss even worse was, because of 1. Kayak tethers helped. the proximity of Southern Cross to When landing on rocks or reefs, a their camp, they had left almost all paddle leash or long tether is vital 2. My subsequent moves seem to have their kit inside the kayak, ‘including to stop a kayak drifting away. This been appropriate; checking his car and water, food, extra clothing, and the can be either a stretchy paddle leash, the beach to see if he had returned, EPIRB’. By an extraordinary stroke from paddle shaft to kayak, with the making the 111 call and then paddling of luck, they located their double paddler making sure to keep hold of out with a towline to check the kayak wallowing on rocks at the end of the paddle when landing, or a long and ensure there was no body tangled the beach where they had landed. A tether. A tether can be your towline in a long line. The helicopter would big wake up call for Eric with the or a specific line attached to the deck- not have recovered the drifting kayak, realization that, ‘we were naked lines, by the bow or bow grab loop, and depending on wind and swell di- without Southern Cross’. which is held in one hand when land- rection, it would have drifted ashore ing, or tossed to your paddling mate. further up the coast, and if spotted, The loss of your kayak in areas with (Dave Winkworth recommends a 15 could have led to another search for a good emergency marine commu- metre long towline). missing paddler. nications means you have a ‘better than average’ chance of being reu- 2. Staying put on the sea stack? LESSONS LEARNED nited quickly with your boat. In re- I believe the bloke made the cor- For All Paddlers moter areas, such as East Greenland rect call to sit tight on the sea stack. After landing, anywhere / anytime, or deepest, darkest Fiordland, it is an Even on a calm day, there is still quite always tether your kayak; be it to a absolute no brainer not to tether your a surge running around and between tree, your tent guy-lines, a big rock kayak after landing - be it for a pee the Motukiekie Rocks. At low tide, a or big immovable lump of drift- stop, a cup of tea stop or for camping broad wave cut platform is exposed wood. There are some classic exam- overnight.’ from the base of the cliffs, but there ples indelibly etched in my memory: are still deep channels to swim to reach that shore reef. For a strong confident - Gino Watkins landing on an ice swimmer wearing a lifejacket and/or floe on 20 August 1932, in Lake wetsuit, worth a try, but for a paddler Fjord East Greenland, and his skin lacking swimming confidence, stay- kayak sliding into the icy sea after ing put was the best option. a presumed local glacier calving event created a small pressure 3. Call for rescue? wave, enough to tilt the floe he had If I hadn’t seen the paddler launch, landed on while out seal hunting. and kept an eye of his progress, he Gino could have waited till Rymill may well have spent a long, chilly and Spencer-Chapman came to night on the sea stack with the seals look for him later that afternoon, and shags. but he chose to drop his trousers and swim after the kayak. Being 4. Carriage of Comms of rather slim build, in the minus There is neither cellphone nor VHF 0˚C sea water, he obviously suc- Parked up safely above high tide, and reception at the Motukiekie Rocks. cumbed to the cold and drowned ready for collection by the owner 16
New Zealand Sea Kayaker ing his PhD looking at the experience http://www.nswseakayaker.asn.au/ Overseas Reports we derive from outdoor pursuits, in index.php/homepage/basic-skills particular kayaking. The Bass Strait crossing was part of this research. The 2018 VSKC PaddleFest will WEST ISLAND BITS He has explored what it takes to pad- again be at Barwon Heads. Visitors November 2017 dle to work, taking four days through are welcome. by David Winkworth suburban drains and the like. Beau works in the Department of Educa- Sea Kayaking Trends in Australia As some members would remember, tion at Monash University, where he This is interesting. After years of this column from across the ditch teaches and researches outdoor edu- strong growth, the number of pad- started as a ‘news from Australia’ cation. In his talk to the VSKC AGM dlers in the two largest Aussie sea column. Over time it has evolved Blue Water Paddle Fest, Beau spoke kayaking clubs seems to have stabi- into a collection of news items, tips, about the secret life of a kayaker, lized at around the 200 – 250 mark. tricks and whatever else I see around exploring the thinking and motiva- Perhaps that’s going to be the sea the traps over here. Contributions, as tions that go into long expeditions kayaking niche numbers for the fu- always are most welcome. This edi- and how to document in the form ture as adventure seekers look to tion continues the trend! of compelling stories. Beau’s Bass other activities. Strait crossing videos can be viewed VSKC AGM on Youtube. His website link: Another Aussie trend mentioned to I attended the VSKC (Victorian Sea http://beaumilesfilm.com/ me recently by Rob Mercer of Expe- Kayak Club) AGM at Barwon Heads dition Kayaks in Sydney is a move west of Melbourne in early Novem- Geoff’s presentation was of paddling away from the traditional (can I call ber. The ‘PaddleFest’ as we call it in East Greenland and Antarctica. it that?) Brit-style skegged sea kayak is a moveable feast and in the last His photos were magnificent to say to the longer ruddered plumb-bow two years it was held amid gales and the least. The presentation was a lit- boats such as the Pace 17 and the rain at Cape Patterson. That’s what tle long but no one was complaining. Taran. I wonder if that’s happening the Victorian coast can be like in We were awestruck. in NZ? Spring! This year it was light winds and bright sunshine. Glorious! Guest The VSKC is going through a reor- In line with this trend is the release of speakers were Beau Miles and Geoff ganization of its training programs a new Aussie sea kayak by Expedi- Murray. Geoff accompanied Paul at the moment. It is sometimes a tion Kayaks called the Audax. ‘Great Caffyn paddling in Antarctica earlier difficult issue for large volunteer to see new designs and innovations this year. clubs – satisfying training and trips in our part of the world! Good luck demands. to them! Expedition Kayaks link: Beau is a very experienced out- http://www.expeditionkayaks.com/ doors and kayaking expeditioner By the way, any KASK member and videographer, with trips along looking for sea kayaking training These longer boats, with flattish the Eastern African coast and many videos should have a look at the hulls and rounded stern keel lines other major expeditions that he has training videos on the NSW Sea are very much rudder-dependant in filmed and made into compelling Kayak Club website. Painstakingly difficult conditions. More on this in documentaries. He has undertaken prepared with much expert vetting, a future issue. many Long trips in Australia and a they are a great resource for us all. Bass Strait crossing. He is complet- NSWSKC Training videos link: WA Sea Kayak Fest 2018 The WA Sea Kayak Club is running a Sea Kayak Fest in mid February at Bussellton south of Perth. Sandy Robson, whom we all know, is one of the organizers. Paul Caffyn and I are going over and we’re very much looking forward to the weekend and catching up with Sandy, who by the way, was recently awarded the pres- tigious Australian Geographic Ad- venturer of the Year gong for 2017; this was for her Retracing Oskar Speck Expedition. She was also be- ing awarded the Olegas Truchanas Canoeing Award -2016-17, by Aus- tralian Canoeing. Good luck Sandy! (see award photo next page) Beau Miles and Geoff Murray at the VSKC AGM. Photos: Laureen Knight 17
No. 191 October - November 2017 Anyway, some time ago I did a trip We all know how loud the wind can with a few friends along the south- be around our ears when punching ern coast of Tasmania, paddling a into a headwind. It doesn’t have to sea kayak of about 17 kgs I’d built be a particularly strong wind either myself. It was a trip on big SW to make it really, really noisy. swells for sure. On the trip one fel- low’s boat was badly damaged on Now supposing you had to punch rocks and there were plenty of non- that wind in your boat for half a paddling days due to the conditions. day…or a full day. That wind noise In one surf exit I was forced to roll is going to make you more tired than eight times in getting out - the most you realize and that’s not a good I’ve ever done. thing. On this trip our kayaks were fully If you’ve ever been a motorcyclist, loaded which can put extra strain on you’ve most likely used those little the craft. I remember muttering to squashy foam ear plugs. They sig- myself many times on this expedi- nificantly reduce the wind roar un- Sandy Robson with her Australian tion, “Never again! I will never take der the helmet BUT still let you hear Geographic 2017 ‘Adventurer of the on these conditions in such a light clearly the things you need to hear Year Award’ craft again!” - other bikes, police sirens etc. PLBs. Multiple Set-Offs Do you carry a PLB with you on Well, I’ve remembered that trip and it Try a set of those ear plugs next time trips? What a great little lifesaver was indeed the end of super light sea you’re paddling into a headwind. they are! If you’re on a paddle with kayaks for me. Sometimes “light” is They are amazing in the kayak! friends and someone is injured re- too light! I wonder if you’ve had an You can still chat comfortably with quiring evacuation, you set off a experience like that where you’ve been friends but the wind roar is much PLB. Right? concerned about the ability of a light- reduced. What you will also notice Have you thought about activating weight boat to handle the conditions? is the pleasant noise of the water TWO PLBs together? against the hull of your kayak. I keep Focus, Focus, Focus a set permanently in my day hatch. An article I read recently about an Do you ever do that out at sea where They’re a good thing. emergency evacuation mentioned conditions might be tough? I find it just that. We all know that rescue a really good tool. THINK solely KASK Kayak Fest - March 2018 authorities sometimes respond to ac- about what you’re doing - and noth- I’m looking forward to the coming cidental PLB set-offs - an occurrence ing else. Intense concentration. It Forum. It’s been a few years since that would understandably be a great might be doing a roll, it could be a I’ve been over and it will be great to nuisance to them, to say nothing of tricky passage through confused wa- catch up with everyone. I have a few the costs involved. ter among rocks or a difficult surf sessions lined up but there’ll also be entry. Focus on the task - and get plenty of informal kayak chat. That’s In the article, it was mentioned that through it. Try it! FOCUS! the best thing about Forums! Might activating two PLBs simultaneously see you there? indicates immediately to the rescue Ear Plugs centre that it is a REAL emergency. ‘Think I might have mentioned this Enjoy your paddling - and Happy It’s a great idea. before in this column. Christmas! Just remember to raid your injured mate’s wallet to pay for the second set of PLB batteries!! Lightweight Kayaks I used to be obsessed with building lightweight sea kayaks - kayaks that would do the job but which were pared down in fittings and material to the absolute minimum! God, I was crazy in the shed! I’d trim edges off fiberglass cloth in the layup, weigh various stainless steel fittings and al- ways use the lighter versions and so on. Yes, I suppose I was a ‘cut the handle off the toothbrush’ person. Dave Winkworth with his Nadgee kayak at a North Queensland Funnily enough I do still do that! sea kayaking symposium 18
New Zealand Sea Kayaker as close as possible to what will be like Victoria Jason, making a life Book Review encountered on the trip. Training in changing move in ‘middle age’ and a gym, lifting weights, is a bit like taking up sea kayaking. She is not a broken pencil – pointless in my absolutely focussed on the goal of Title: Inside view! Susan spent three months pad- reaching Skagway, but what I liked Subtitle: One Woman’s Journey dle training in southern B.C. Then so much was Susan’s determination Through the Inside Passage there was a 100 mile paddle in the in letting go of her emotional bag- Author: Susan Marie Conrad fall of 2009 to check out equipment. gage and living the dream, enjoying Published: 2016 In terms of the critical criteria for the the paddling for the moment. That is Publisher: Epicenter Press Inside Passage paddle, she needed a what has been so important for me Website: www.EpicenterPress.com dependable roll, competent naviga- with the big trips, using my mental Contents: 272pp, central colour plate tion and good sea(wo)manship. She and physical skills to make the most section, small maps, reference book had all three. of every pleasurable (and not so list, gear list pleasurable) moment. Cover: Hardback with d/j I must admit that some of her pad- Size: 230 x 160 mms dling highlights distressed me im- She is joined by a paddling mate Price: US$ 24.95 mensely. I was so envious of Susan’s Becky for 11 days out, and accepts a ISBN: 978-1-935347-57-6 encounters with big and small mam- ride on a fishing boat, which offends Availability: NZ$ 31.89 from mals (whales and bears), knocking my sense of purist paddling ethics, www.bookdepository.com off another committing crossing but this is Susan’s journey, not mine. Review: Paul Caffyn and her sheer joy of finding a magic evening campsite, fresh water, bit The ending is a bit sad. Keep tissues In the North American Spring of sheltered from wind, dry under the handy – well for the ladies, and not 2010, Susan Conrad launched from tent and a better than average view for the blokes of course! Anacortes in Washington, and set off of the water. Echoes so much of what solo paddling for Juneau in South- I loved about the ‘big trips’. The chapter heading quotes are bet- east Alaska. ter than average and the inclusion of Although the issue of weight (kay- a comprehensive kit list is a grand What do I like about this book? ak and kit) took me several trips to way to start planning for your own - Susan’s expedition style come to terms with, Susan realized wee paddle up the Inside Passage. - her descriptive writing style from the outset, that the weight of - Susan’s inner journey as well as the kayak, paddle and kit was extremely There are now more books than you physical side of paddling important. In the Antipodes we call can shake a stick out on paddling or - her chapter heading quotes it the expedition ‘minimalist’ style how to paddle, or I’ve paddled, the - her comprehensive kit list – boat, paddle, tent, cooking kit and Inside Passage from the lower 48 food, all as light as possible. Down (Washington State) north through Expedition style – I break down my to sawing half the handle off the British Columbian waters to South- long distance expeditions into three toothbrush – not sure if Susan did east Alaska but this one comes close phases: that, but she had the minimalist style to top of the best of the narratives. - planning and research to heart, which is so important when - training paddling solo. - execution Susan’s low key approach to the trip For her first ‘big trip’ Susan did im- also appealed to me, no big pre-pub- peccably well with all three. It took licity, no daily website updates, no me a few years to figure out the sponsors to satisfy, no big welcom- prime requirements for my big trips ing party at the conclusion, just the - small things, that prove to be so im- satisfaction and pleasure of achiev- portant when a trip is underway, like ing an outstanding adventure. annotated maps (some of Susan’s maps with comments from Audrey I liked Susan’s writing style – very Sutherland), tide tables, dehydrating little of day to day diary fashion meals and, with mailed food parcels, (launched at 7am, paddled for four including a letter to the postmaster hours, wind strong, landed at …) but advising of her trip and an approxi- then not overly doing the serious in- mate date of arrival. That’s exactly trospective. what I did for my Alaskan trip. Susan’s inner journey adds another To me, pre-trip training is so impor- dimension to the text; a wretched tant. On the water ‘realistic’ training childhood and running for 40 years is the absolute best, in conditions from loss of friends and abuse, then 19
You can also read