Markets & marketplaces - EGGYPANMAGAZINE N 3 - Squarespace
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image credits Antonina Kerguelen Roman, cover Mateo Correa, 10, 24 Daniela Ochoa Bravo, 45 Adela Pineda Franco, 13, 58
What was once moral for us is now aesthetic, what was social is now individual, we should bathe our destinies as we do our bodies, change our lives as we do our clothes. New Age Collage, cloé leclerc 2
table of contents from the editors About Egg y Pan.......4 To Our Readers........... 5 interview Angélica Guzmán...............................................................................................31 MIXED MEDIA Merca Market y Places, soundscape, Só Gutiérrez Losada ...........................70 Caja Electrofónica, video-collage, Susana Plotts-Pineda...........................................70 PROSE dream-sueño/ pesadilla-nightmare /travesía-paseo-route, Só Gutiérrez Losada..... 45 Como Dictar un Mapa Rolo, Daniela Ochoa-Bravo...............................................................58 Interdimensional Instruccions for a Revolution, Susana Plotts-Pineda........................... 13 El agua viene de noche, Guillermo Severiche.............................................................. 24 POETRY Generare, Edmond Clark.................................... 48 The Book of Ham, Mateo Correa................................................................69 Camionas, Faith Johnson.............................................22 Wet Wetter, Malena Pennycook......................................................................... 17 VISUAL ART Tepoztlán, Mateo Correa...................................................................................27 Ceramics, Analuisa Corrigan photographed by Austin Perrotta................................65 Caserita Pelando Granadas, Mathilde Díaz..........................................................68 El Swapmeet, Sophia Garcia ............................................................53 Paloquemao & Colombia’s Coast, Antonina Kerguelen...................49 New Age Collage, Cloé Leclerc.............................................................................2 Moments, Yanbo Li..............................................................................................................60 Cinco de Mayo, Adela Pineda Franco...............................................................42 Documenting, Angel Roman......................................................... 18 12 de Octubre, Bogotá, Alejandra Vargas................................................ 12 $6.70/lb, Santiago Corredor-Vergara..................................59 3
ABOUT EGG Y PAN MAGAZINE Egg y Pan is a project dedicated to fostering community between Latinx and POC artists and writers, and creating a platform for their voices and work. In order to contest the walls that are physically and ideologically being forced around us, we seek to break boundaries and create: a multi-media online, in person, and print forum in order to interrupt conventional modes of accessing and interacting with art and explore idea of a magazine as a textured, three-dimensional space. Drawing its inspiration from popular Mexican art, Egg y Pan would like to dedicate itself to the art of miniature. Retablos, nicho boxes, personalized shrines, figurines-the art of the intimate, the sacred and the mundane. What do found objects within compressed spaces permit us to see about the world that we often miss in the bigger picture? How can we conceive of our art as tiny object- scale-model, parody, music-box and map? How can we highlight the details that get left behind and draw them into central focus? How do we consider frame and artifice as a form of truth and world making? In this project we would like to promote revolutionary thought and action and create a micro-model for alternative futures. In homage to our geography, the history of community-building practiced by immigrants, and the legacy of fostering spaces for unexpected visions of art, we would like to contribute along with those aiming to put their two cents in a fragmented world. 4
TO OUR READERS Marketplaces are temporal sites that encourage a dynamic gathering of people, flows of goods and information, and interests. It is believed that markets have existed as long as humans have engaged in trade. The exchange of goods in public spaces has been traced to early Mesopotamian civilizations, although many argue it can be traced even earlier. Most metropoles around the world have thriving, thematically distinct marketplaces; The Khan in Cairo, Chiang Mai in Thailand, Pisac Market in Peru, and the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Marketplaces have evolved throughout time, and been greatly affected by urban development. In some cases, local governments manage markets and are seen as tools for tourism development. Consider the example of Chelsea Market in New York City as a marketplace with a carefully advertised ambiance and a simulated authenticity. Marketplaces are oftentimes characterized by hosting local vendors and selling goods that are, to some degree, associated with their corresponding spatial location. Some marketplaces specialize in selling fresh food, poultry, and herbs, others specialize in clothing, and others in counterfeit products that then get sold for more affordable prices. The primary thing to consider is that marketplaces should and do represent the commodities available in that region, and contain spaces in which local farmers and artisans can sell their goods. The idea of the marketplace as an early site of exchange in the history of human social organization evokes vibrant imagery of the blossoming of great ancient civilizations, and their collective humanity through an engaged and on-site back and forth of necessary goods and cultural artifacts. It could be said that markets are among the most elusive aspects of these civilizations, which remain enigmatic, albeit, prominent within our collective historical consciousness. Although trade may have been the backbone of the cultural development of these early cities, it is hard to imagine and to reconstruct what it would’ve been like to stand in the middle of a bustling Assyrian marketplace or in the great market at Tlatelolco, what is now the valley of Mexico where Mexico city extends in all directions. Makeshift structures, used to hold and display goods, were not made of the same solid, stone, bronze, and marble as the great temples and statues that have made their way, fragment by fragment, into museums in the metropolises of the contemporary world. But even more ineffable, is the clamor of voices, the rustling of silks, wools and other textiles and the neighing, and barking of various animals, impossible to place behind the display cases of the Ancient History Wing. This was the reality of life at the time, and it remains in its essence inscrutable and thus fascinating. We can, however, gather ideas, reconstruct vague mental images through the remnants that were left behind, notably the goods being exchanged: ceramics both utilitarian and ornamental, amulets, statues, jewelry, but also the tools that were developed in order to render their exchange more quantifiable. 5
TO OUR READERS Markets lead to the development of the earliest forms of seals, stamps with specific images that signified where the object came from, or in other words “branded” it. Weights often shaped like animals such as cows or ducks were developed in order to ensure a barter was equal, thus leading to the development of an early form of currency. But beyond this, markets in the Mesopotamian region led to a much more significant invention in the course of human history: written language. Cuneiform writing, or wedge-shaped inscriptions on clay tablets was developed to keep track of financial transactions and constituted an early form of accounting. If we extrapolate on this idea, we can conceive markets as a precedent for the complexification of human existence. Many of the goods being exchanged in ancient marketplaces were not immediately essential to humans. Certain people and certain chronological periods were referred to by the name of the ceramic techniques which they developed, such as the Ubaid period in south- ern Iraq between 6000 and 4000 BC. What came to define the identity of a people was the form of artistry which they developed. The aesthetics of human craftsmanship can be used to understand and define the parameters of a given culture. Much of this is due to the specific natural elements which surrounded them: the materials, colors, and elements which were at their disposal. Early civilizations were existing in close relationship with their surroundings, learn- ing from their elements, and thus building something out of this. They were not only a part of the natural environment that surrounded them, intrinsic to it, but also building something out of it, emerging from it. They were then developing a physical language, or repertoire of signs in the form of objects, which they could exchange with their neighbors in order to reassert who they, in an essen- tial sense, were, and then, after gleaning contact with the other, complexify this sense of identity. Human economic activity was thus deeply entrenched in the desire to, in brief, make aesthetically significant objects, and thus create art. We can look at markets, not only as spaces where resources emerging from different natural landscapes are exchanged through human hands but also as a refined material form of communication that extends through time and space, forging a wider network of knowledge on the varied forms of human existence. A market becomes an interwoven tapestry of the real-time, embodied language of intellectual transaction. Through exchange, we begin to understand each other and understand those who inhabit a different kind of place. The existence of share markets or in other words, immaterial markets are believed to have come to prominence in Venice in the 13th century, as the world’s first sophisticated banking systems began to be elaborated by bankers trading in government securities. 6
TO OUR READERS With the expansion of colonialism, merchants in countries of the “Old World” began pooling their resources, becoming co-owners of the shared stock of their companies, in order to ensure enough capital to make their businesses, based on the massive extraction of resources in the “New World” and the emergence of the slave trade, thrive in newly competitive Western markets. The development of the modern stock market was considered to be pioneered in the early 17th century by the Dutch East India Company, in which bonds and shares of stocks were made available for purchase to the general public. With the wealth gained from the colonies, several western European countries experienced a period of rapid industrialization and rapid wealth increase for a certain faction of society. In 1773, the London Stock Exchange was formed in response to the need for an organized marketplace to exchange these shares. In the 19th century, Marx began to critique many aspects of this rapidly developing economy. One of the concepts he expunged was the idea of “fictitious capital,” the expected or unexpected fluctuation in yields of stocks, in contrast to the real capital which is actually invested into the material needs of production and of the workers. He believed that this form of capital was only tangentially related to the actual growth of production. In recent times, in our collective imagination, as people exiting childhood or entering adulthood at the time of the biggest stock market crash in recent history, virtual, speculative markets are shrouded in an increasingly sinister cloud. And for good reason, with the emergence of neoliberalism, or “laissez-faire economics” championed by leaders such as Reagan or Thatcher, trade has become increasingly deregulated, and the mechanisms of global capitalism have become ever more efficient and predatory. The global wealth gap has exponentially grown, and our unsustainable modes of production at ever-increasing efficiency have cost us perhaps one of the greatest collective crises in human history: climate change. It is the most marginalized communities, notably indigenous and POC communities in the global south and across the globe, who have grown only more vulnerable. It is interesting to note that the development of the stock market itself, developed by a trading company, holds deeply colonial roots. In fact, under finance economies, where people’s actual wealth is put on the line for the possibility of speculative profit, the fruit of which they will never touch, where carceral societies exploit the unpaid labor of unjustly convicted black and brown people, and where extractivist economies violently antagonize indigenous communities, these colonial systems seem more deeply entrenched than ever. It would seem that the physical marketplace has become more and more estranged from the immaterial marketplace that, in some civilizations, it helped birth. 7
TO OUR READERS It would seem that the physical location in which goods are exchanged for other goods has little to do with the speculative marketplace in which people’s mortgages are sold for profit. Obviously, these are daunting historical and structural conditions that we cannot tackle all at once (unless we can? Tsk tsk global insurrection??). But how can we grapple with them, and contest them? How can we create microcosms, pockets of alternative reality which bring our exchanges as people closer to the initial definition of the marketplace as a physical space? There are already certain practices that we engage in, in our respective communities that hint at these values: clothing swaps, exchange of services, free spaces, mutual-aid funds, and community workshops. Markets and Marketplaces hopes to explore these venues as junctures of heritage and distribution, of representation and abstraction, as sites of memory. What smells filled the marketplaces of your hometown, of the countries that your legacy stems from? How have these markets shifted due to policy, urban development, or gentrification? How have they metamorphosed into tourist destinations or remained sacred places of community for locals? How do we, as young people, continue to regain autonomy over the exchange of cultural knowledge through the form of goods or services? How can we return to the idea of the market as a place where we define ourselves in relation to each oth- er? Where do we learn about each other through our respective crafts, interests, and desires? How can this sense of exchange guide us to develop models for a better, more communal future? How can we create marketplaces beyond the parameters of late capitalism? 8
preface We started conceptualizing this issue of the magazine before COVID-19 hit New York. This event has obviously had dramatic and at times devastating effects on our lives and the larger communities we are a part of. We are perpetually struck by how much this pandemic has put these notions of precarity within hyper-speculative global markets in stark relief as well as highlighted the racial and economic inequities created by late-stage capitalism. But it has also fostered an increasingly critical space to tackle these issues with a larger sense of urgency. Some of these submissions were written after the virus hit but a lot of them were written, or captured before. There is an inherent sense of nostalgia and longing as we look back at a pre-COVID world, but also the pressing question of what is worth preserving and fighting for in a post-pandemic world. We all know that a return to normal is simply not enough. We hope that this will help a layered reading experience of this edition which happens to straddle a very drastic before and after within a global paradigm. Finally, we hope that these pieces may offer moments of solace, relief and inspiration to our readers in these times. 9
EGG Y PAN MAGAZINE
A Note on Translation Egg y Pan is a bilingual magazine that believes in a porous and fluid interaction between the reader and the work. Each piece was published in its original language, unless the writer chose to translate it. Our aim is for everyone to be able to engage with the magazine through the lens of their own experience, in the hopes that this will allow a variety of readings and interactions. 8
12 de octubre, bogotá alejandra vargas 12
interdimensional instructions for a revolution susana plotts-pineda
This is 902 FM, emissions from even farther still. It is all times at once. Things take time, and time takes things. But alas, no more. Dear listener, we have a very special broadcast for you today as you trudge through the fine sand of your desert dream. The one where you find the same glowing crab fossil under the same painted cave, where years of sedimentation have inscribed the murmurings of the universe’s unconscious song. It goes like this: Red line Russet line Green line Red line Blue line save me from yourselves Yellow Yellow Yellow. But this time as you are wading through the moon hills and dust valleys into an almost purple evening, a few hundred feet from the cave, a paper drifts your way and lands right before your face. It dates from 38,567 years ago and reads: REVOLUTIONARY PAMPHLET FOR THE NEW GENERATION NUMBER 385 FELLOW YOUTH, IN SPIRIT MIND, OR YEARS, DO YOU FIND YOURSELF DISSATISFIED, RUN DOWN, CRUSHED? YOUR HOPEFUL YEARNING SOUL SOMETIMES GROUND INTO FINE SAND, WET PULP, BURIED IMPULSES, AND ANNIHILATED BY THE SYNCHRONOUS PRESSURE OF THE MASSIVE IMPASSIVE WEIGHT OF EXPECTATION (DEBT) AND THE LACK OF POSSIBILITY? We know that you are of course strong as a stalk and your hope is every growing, regenerating, climbing the walls of impossibility like an unstoppable vine, but we also know that the whole foundation threatens to crack and tumble and become dust and take you along with it on its fall any minute. We know that though you expertly weave your way around the rust of these broken structures, these structures were not built for you, or I, or anybody else. These structures may glimmer like steel and glass and every day the promise is that they will be taller and more lavish, but we know that inside they are rusted, filled with shrapnels and secret traps. We know that you, the growing vine, are the most remarkable thing about it, although you are not an inherent part of it. Or rather, you don’t have to be. 14
Here is a proposition made with love and urgency: REMOVE YOURSELF FROM THE PATH OF THE FALLING SCAFFOLDING FLEE TO THE COUNTRYSIDE OCCUPY AN ABANDONED FARM HOUSE INVITE EVERY SINGLE ONE OF YOUR FRIENDS AND FORMER LOVERS INVITE YOUR PARENTS AND CARE FOR THEM WHEN THEY CAN NO LONGER CARE FOR THEMSELVES DON’T PAY YOUR DEBT (They can’t chase all of us) IN THE DARKNESS CAUSED BY GLOBAL DISRUPTION, EVERYONE ASKS, WHAT’S NEXT? And here’s the thing Whatever’s coming isn’t here yet In a cataclysmically failing hyper-financialized market system, there is only the perpetual present and this present is noxious IN THE DARKNESS CAUSED BY PESTILENCE IT IS UP TO US TO ENGINEER A FUTURE BY CANDLELIGHT IT IS UP TO US TO CREATE THE BLUEPRINT FOR A TENTATIVE ALTERNITY IT IS THE WILL IN OUR BELIEF THAT INSCRIBES POTENTIALITY INTO REALITY LET US NOT ONLY CONCEPTUALIZE THE MODEL BUT LIVE THE MODEL ABANDON YOUR RAPIDLY DIMINISHING POSSIBILITIES IN THIS CURRENT PARADIGM YOUR DREAMS OF PERSONAL SUCCESS YOUR CAREERIST AMBITIONS NOBLE THOUGH THEY MAY BE AND MANIFEST THE NEW COLLECTIVE IMAGINE FOR A SECOND THAT THE ARTIST MAY BECOME ARTISAN ONCE AGAIN OFFERING YOUR CREATIVE MUSINGS AS A SIMPLE OBJECT AVAILABLE TO YOUR LOCAL COMMUNITY AS A RESOURCE 15
THIS NEW REALITY IS OURS TO DESIGN IN ANY WAY WE WANT LET US START SMALL AND HUMBLE PAINTING THE WALLS OF OUR FARMHOUSES PLANTING LETTUCE, CILANTRO, GIANT SQUASH STARTING RADIO STATIONS AND STRATEGIZING THE REVOLUTION CREATING AN EVER GROWING NETWORK OF THOSE WHO HAVE REFUSED TO CONTRIBUTE THEIR HEARTS MINDS AND BODIES TO THE SENSELESS PRESERVATION OF CAPITAL REFUSED TO HUSTLE AND GRIND FOR PROFIT INSTEAD DEDICATED THEIR LIVES TO SPIRITUAL AND MATERIAL LIBERATION IN HOPES THAT FINALLY, THE WHOLE WORLD MAY FIND ITS WAY ANEW You look at the paper once more and the letters shift and rearrange themselves and slowly morph into a fantastically rendered landscape. You recognize the primeval continent of your waking life. wake up wake up wake up come back You close your eyes and sense your mollusk origin and realize you are wrapped in a membranous purple skin. The surface of the ocean laps at your hard belly and you can hear the sound of the waves as if they were a thousand feet away. The sun is a suggestion that floats on your exoskeleton. You wash up on the beach of The Beginning and stare at the verdant wall before you, glad to have once again had the chance to start. 16
Wet Wetter Malena Pennycook I’m spitting chocolate wet into the sink carving away cookie from my inner molars and only as the first drops of blood leak from my mouth into the porcelain sink do I realize I have not had a glass of water today nor did I yesterday and not the day before either I simply absorbed it from something else the rain, a date, a large Dunkin Donuts latte that I thought would be shared but wasn’t too weak green tea, blueberry yogurt, Thai curry, cum water wrapped in sugar water wrapped in milk water wrapped in oh a split second passes where I believe this is how my ancestors did it absorbing the fluids they needed from raw grasses and meats always replenishing from what surrounded them. Never searching. Always finding. But no that’s not right at all they found clear streams endless sources of freshness, cleanliness, drinking water, water, wet wet water they did not suck and chew and avoid they took time to drink I fill up too. I make sure to fill up so, don’t think I don’t fill up just not on water on gasoline fumes in the parking lot, on bikini Instagrams, on my time filling filling filling not the cup not the bottle just my time drinking drinking drunk drunk-ing dunk dung spit chew swallow oblige forget gone I do not notice when I’m thirsty. I’ve taken no time to strengthen the neurons water wrapped in wastefulness water wrapped in waste I forgot where did I begin 17
DOCUMENTING angel roman
cAMIONAS FAITH JOHNSON Camiona derives from the Spanish camionera, which means female truck driver. It is used derogitorily towards masc-presenting lesbians, specifically in Chile, and young queer women have since reclaimed camiona as their own. Chile’s fifth region, known as the “red zone” among the LGBTQ+ community, is notorious for abundant avocado farms and violence against camionas. Despite the families of murdered and missing women begging the police and media for justice, few attacks and murders make headlines. While the hot panic of being shoved into a garbage bag and tossed into a ravine has crossed my mind before, that panic usually subsides after a few moments, and I carry myself cautiously back to my (usually safe) reality. In the fifth region, the hot panic among camionas is constant, and rooted in a bloody, persistent history. The luxury of splashing cold water over one’s nightmarish projection does not apply. I am heartbroken by the violence in Chile because the bloodshed is real. The horror is current and unimagined. Queer women go missing, are beaten, die, and are forgotten. This poem was written for the camionas, their erased names, their numb families, and their shadows that contour the streets at night. 22
CAMIONAS, They scare me too. Men with plump smiles lips cracking pregnant with bloody fantasies: stomping our wrists into dust watching limbs go limp and tossing our maimed bodies deep into the dirt. Camionas, Your ghosts haunt the corn fields. I trip and fall over your thick brow arches then push myself back up using the dunes of your low laughter. You used to shoot street stares between the eyes. Camionas, Your voices once rolled through the streets at night like sandstorms, now they hum beneath the ground like sleeping cicadas Camionas, The soil in Chile is dry this summer but when the rain comes again I know that you will crawl out of your graves paste yourselves back together and wander back to your mothers’ homes for one last muddy embrace before the storm stops. 23
EL AGUA VIENE DE NOCHE (novela-fragmento adaptado) guillermo severiche
el agua viene de noche Ya estás listo Iván quién es él, Atilio nos va a acompañar, y tu mamá, en la cama sigue durmiendo, Susana fijate cómo está la Sofía yo lo voy a cambiar al Iván no tenés otra remera vos ah no tenés otra cosa que ponerte, a ver vamos, Adela apúrense, Susana andá a ver cómo está querés vamos atrasadas, este chinito que no se sabe poner la ropa, cuántos años tenés vos eh, me escuchás, ya estás grandecito para que te tenga que elegir la ropa, tengo hambre, ay es lo único que decís ay dios este pendejo qué dolores de cabeza que nos está trayendo, no te hiciste el té, no, la Sofía está bien sigue dormida no la quiero desper- tar, estoy bien así, sacate esa remera está rota dale que vamos a llegar tarde, ya está o no, ay Susana no me apurés que me ponés más nerviosa, es que ya la van a traer a la virgen apúrense, mirá no me pongás nerviosa porque fue idea tuya de llevar al nene, y vos cómo me dijiste que te llamabas, Atilio, se van a portar bien chicos, a ver Iván amor ponete ésta, listo vamos. Hola Justina ya llegó la procesión, no todavía no pero ya trajeron los pollos ya los van a sacar, quién los hizo, el Toñito que tiene horno pizzero él sabe condimentar, y los nenes, nuestro sobrino y un amiguito suyo, ah cómo está su hermana me contaron que anda medio enferma, ay Justina ni le cuento mire que me voy a poner mal y hoy es día de festejo, Adela, no pasa nada mire después hablamos le queremos dar algo de comer a los nenes primero, hola bebé tenés hambre, Iván saludá a la señora che, saludá te digo, hola, se anda portando mal no le haga caso, y vos querido cómo te llamás, Atilio, bueno Justina ya después hablamos, vamos adentro, enseguida las veo, vamos a buscar lugar para sentarnos, acá, no, allá tienen sillas, me guarda ese lugarcito disculpe, permiso, gracias, querés vino, ya van a traer la cerveza, vos querés gaseosa, sí, la chic cola o la fanta, fanta, y vos nene qué querés, fanta, Susana ahí está, quién, Alberto, me cago en, mirá no tomés mucho que te vas a poner como loca ya te conozco, pero qué hace acá tenía que quedarse él en el persa hoy, y la patrona, no la veo se debe haber quedado ella, qué pendejo desconsiderado todo por chupar y andar de farra, vos calmate que te conozco mirá que tenés lengua de víbora y después te vas a estar lamentando, callate que ahí traen a la virgen. Buenas tardes, buenas tardes, amigos como ya saben hoy es un día especial, dejá el vaso che que están por rezar, Adela ya te dije que no me jodás, yo quiero más fanta, así le enseñás al nene, dios te salve maría llena eres de gracia, cuándo traen la comida, shhh Iván cerrá la boca, el señor es contigo, Susana cortala con el vino che, bendita tú eres entre todas las mujeres y bendito es el fruto de tu vientre jesús, tengo hambre, es que me hizo una seña el maleducado, pero si es un degenerado no le des bola, santa maría madre de dios ruega por nosotros pecadores, no pasa de hoy que le digo lo que se merece, ahí tienen los pol- los en la esquina por qué no los traen, ahora y en la hora de nuestra muerte, desgraciado, amén. 25
el agua viene de noche Adela ahí viene la Pelusa le voy a preguntar qué número salió en la quiniela, tía me quiero ir, cállese la boca malagradecido que acá le están dando de comer Susana, qué, Su- sana, qué querés, preguntale a la Pelusa si no sabe quién donó el pelo, tía me quiero ir, te callás y quedate quieto caramba, dice que la hija de la Yoli se lo cortó, es bellísimo decile que la virgen se lo va a agradecer, nos vamos a ir, pero me dice que la Yoli la obligó y que anda re enojada la pendeja por eso no vino, me quiero ir, ay qué pendejo de porquería Iván andá al baño querés y lavate la cara mirá cómo la tenés, y después nos vamos los llevo yo a la casa no van a andar solos por la calle están locos tu mamá se va a calentar conmigo dale andá, el veintisiete Adela, qué cosa, que salió el veintisiete, la concha de la lora yo le jugué al veintiséis, cerquita nomás, hola Adela, Pelusa qué pasó que no me salió el número, no sé qué habrá soñado usted pero casi casi ya después le llevo a su casa los numeritos que me quedan, bueno Pelusa pero la próxima semana que ahora andamos re cortas de plata, y él quién es, ya te lavaste la cara a ver, es nuestro sobrino y él es un amiguito, nos vamos tía, ay bueno los llevo a la casa, qué tenés, me quiero ir me duele el pecho, me duele la cara, a ver qué tenés, dele un poco de gaseosa, bueno yo me voy a sentar que recién llego, bueno Pelusa buena tarde, vos nene pasame la botella cómo era que te llamabas, Atilio, pasame la botel- la a ver Iván tomá un poco, Adela llevalo que yo me quedo, Susana mirá, andá llevalo y te volvés, pero no te mandés ninguna vos Susana, no le voy a decir nada al Alberto, mirá que después si te quedás sin trabajo nosotras fuimos, me quiero ir, ay ya cortala, andá y te volvés no voy a decir nada, vamos vamos. Qué te pasa que andás inquieto, amor te vas a quedar en la casa a cuidar a tu mamá y no salgás a la calle me escuchaste, me escuchaste, vida contestame, qué le pasa, no sé, y vos nene dónde vivís, cerca de la plaza, bueno vos te vas a tu casa y tené cuidado, andá nene andá, chau señora chau Iván, chau Atilio, chau nene andá con cuidado, tía me duele, mirá en la casa te vas a acostar así se te pasa Iván así te calmás, me duele siento que me lleno de agua, qué decís, está adentro, alguien se me metió adentro. 26
Tepoztlán MATEO CORREA 27
Angélica Guzmán in conversation with Susana Plotts-Pineda
In Mexico, the informal economy constitutes 57% of the workforce. For this reason, the Mexican people face their own set of additional challenges in regard to the pandemic. Angélica Guzmán is 23 years old and has a very popular food stand in the historic center of the city of Puebla. In this interview, she speaks on her knowledge of Mexican cooking as well as the impact that COVID has had on her current situation. Because of the crisis, Angélica has had to temporarily shut down the stand. En Mexico la ecomomia informal emplea al 57% de los trabajadores. Por esta razón, los mexicanos enfrentan dificultades muy particulares ante la pandemia. Angélica Guzmán de 23 años tiene un puestito de comida mexicana muy popular en en el centro de la ciudad de Puebla. En esta entrevista, ella comparte conmigo su conocimiento de la cocina mexicana, y el impacto de la pandemia sobre su situación actual. Dada la crisis, Angélica ha tenido que cerrar su puesto temporalmente. ¿En qué estás trabajando ahorita? Where are you working now? Ahora estoy trabajando en ropa de bebé. Right now I’m working in a children’s clothing store. ¿Y sigue abierta la tienda? Is it still open? Sí, pero creo que va a cerrar esta próxima Yes, but I think it’s going to close next week and so I semana, entonces ya no voy a trabajar. Sólo won’t be working anymore. I’ve only been there for llevo dos semanas trabajando. two weeks. ¿Y tú crees que va a haber una ayuda del gobier- Do you think there’s going to be some sort of no? government aid? Supuestamente eso va a haber la próxima Supposedly that will happen next week. I went to the semana. De hecho, fui a la presidencia municipal, town hall to see Claudia Rivera, the one who is a ver a Claudia Rivera, la que está dando apoyo. Y organizing the aid. They asked me to fill out paper- entonces fui y me pidieron los papeles de mi y de work for me and my kids. They told me to wait until los niños, los llevé. Y me dijeron que esté next week to see if I was eligible. pendiente la próxima semana a ver si pueden ayudar. When did you have to take down the food stand? ¿Y cuando tuviste que quitar el puesto? March 18th. They gave me a notice saying I could no longer be selling food in a public space. El 18 de marzo. Me dieron un papel donde ya no puedo vender en vía pública. Have markets also closed? ¿Y los mercados también han cerrado? 32
Pues fíjate que no. Ahí no, quién sabe por qué. Ahí de Well, actually they haven’t, no. I’m not sure why. There, plano nadie va a cerrar. Ahí hay gente, hay demasiada no one seems like they’re going to close. There’s a lot gente, igual con cubre boca, guantes, todo eso. of people, but they do have masks and gloves and all of that. ¿Y para ti no es posible pasar tu puesto a un mercado? Would it be possible to move your stand into a market? No, ya no dan chance, no dan permiso. Cada quien ya No, that’s no longer possible. Everybody already has tiene su lugar. their own space. Ay, qué cosa Angélica. Pues yo creo que va a tener que I’m so sorry Angélica. I feel like there’s going to have haber una ayuda del gobierno, porque mucha to be some sort of government aid, because a lot of gente trabaja vendiendo comida, no.? Para people work selling food, no? To contextualize a little contextualizar un poco, te quería preguntar cómo bit I wanted to ask you about what things were like eran las cosas antes de la pandemia, tu día a día en el before COVID hit, your day-to-day at the stand. Could puesto. Empezando con qué tipo de comida you start by telling me what kind of food you make? preparabas. All types of Mexican food, stuffed chiles, Mexican style Pues todo tipo de comida mexicana, chile relleno, steak, beef stew, mole de olla. bistec a la mexicana, caldo de res, mole de olla. What kinds of customers did you have? ¿Y qué tipo de clientes tenías? Well, I had very good business. I sold to all the Pues yo vendía muy bien. Todos los empleados de las employees from the printing shops as well as the imprentas me compraban. Igual todos los trabajadores union members, you know how there’s a doctor’s del sindicato, ves que hay un sindicato ahí, de union there? They would all come for lunch, at 2 or 3 in doctores. Todos ellos me consumían comida a la hora the afternoon. In the morning, I would sell more de la comida como a las 2 o las 3 de la tarde. antojitos; gorditas, quesadillas, tacos placeros. Temprano se vendían más antojitos: gorditas, quesadillas, tacos placeros. What were your hours? ¿Y a qué horas estaba abierto? From 10 to around 4:30. Como de las 10 hasta las 4, o 4:30. Where did you buy your ingredients? Y entonces, los ingredientes, ¿dónde los obtienes? In the marketplace. All the onions, garlic, peppers, everything that I needed. En el mercado, todas las cebollas, ajo, chile, todo lo que se ocupa. Would you always go to the same marketplace? ¿Y vas siempre al mismo mercado? Always, yes. The 5 de mayo market. Siempre, sí, al mercado “5 de mayo.” Where did you learn to cook? ¿Y tú dónde aprendiste a cocinar? Well, I am from Oaxaca and my grandmother taught me to cook when I was very young. When I was little I Pues yo soy de Oaxaca, y mi abuela me enseñó desde would make tortillas and from there I learned to make chiquita a cocinar. Chiquita hacía tortillas y ahí aprendí everything else. a hacer la comida. Did you used to go to the market with her? Y cuando eras chiquita, ¿tú la acompañabas a hacer compras al mercado? 33
Sí, íbamos al tianguis, como se dice allá, que acá es Yes. We would go to the tianguis, which is what it is mercado. Ahí íbamos las dos a comprar, yo la called there. Here it is a mercado. That’s where we acompañaba. would go to buy food. ¿Y cómo son diferentes los mercados en Puebla y en What are the differences between markets in Puebla Oaxaca? and markets in Oaxaca? “Pues aquí venden cebolla, “Well here the onion, the chili chile, todo aquí más limpio. peppers, everything is cleaner. Allá no. Allá lo venden con There they sell it with the dirt todo y tierra, como va salien- and everything, just as it comes do del campo. Es diferente. from straight out of the earth. It’s different, in Oaxaca it’s just En Oaxaca es puro aire fres- pure fresh air, everything is co, todo está al aire libre. En outdoors. In Puebla, you can Puebla se siente el humo de feel the pollution from the cars, los carros, todo, es otro.” and everything. It’s very differ- Pues aquí venden cebolla, chile, todo aquí más ent.” limpio. Allá no. Allá lo venden con todo y tierra, como va saliendo del campo. Es diferente. En Oaxaca es Well here the onion, the chili peppers, everything is puro aire fresco, todo está al aire libre. En Puebla se cleaner. There they sell it with the dirt and everything, siente el humo de los carros, todo, es otro. just as it comes from straight out of the earth. It’s different, in Oaxaca it’s just pure fresh air, everything is ¿Y tu abuelita también vendía comida? outdoors. In Puebla, you can feel the pollution from the cars, and everything. It’s very different. No, nada más en casa. Did your grandmother sell food? Y ahí tú la acompañabas. No, she only cooked at home. Ándale, ya poco a poco fui aprendiendo y ya empecé a cocinar yo sola y por eso es que sé cocinar. And you would be by her side. Siempre me ha gustado la cocina, igual cuando empecé a trabajar aquí en Puebla, cuando llegué, Yes. I learned little by little, and then I started cooking empecé a trabajar en una cocina. En un restaurante on my own. I’ve always liked to cook. When I first got to que está por el mercado donde yo voy, por la 18. Puebla, I started working in a restaurant that is by the market where I go, by the 18th. ¿Y tu prefieres trabajar en restaurante o en el puesto? Do you prefer to work in a restaurant or at the stand? Pues en mi propio puesto. At my own stand. Y la comida que tú haces es más típica de Oaxaca o de Puebla? Is the food that you make more typically from Oaxaca or Puebla? De Puebla, sí. Poblana. Porque es lo que la gente come. From Puebla because that’s what people eat. 34
¿Y cómo es la comida típica de Oaxaca, los platos What is food from Oaxaca like? típicos? Beef birria and barbacoa. Birria de res y el barbacoa. What are the differences between Oaxacan and ¿Cuáles son las diferencias entre la comida Pueblan food? oaxaqueña y poblana? “The flavors. For example “El sabor. Por ejemplo aquí here, you use a lot of cum- se ocupa mucho comino, in, oregano, bay leaves, and orégano, laurel, y allá no. there you don’t. There they Allá ocupan más el cilantro, use more cilantro, epazote, epazote, hoja santa, hierba- pepper leaf, mint because buena. Porque eso es lo que that’s what grows in each crece ahí.” place.” El sabor. Por ejemplo aquí se ocupa mucho comino, The flavors. For example here, you use a lot of cumin, orégano, laurel, y allá no. Allá ocupan más el cilantro, oregano, bay leaves and, there you don’t. There they epazote, hoja santa, hierbabuena. Porque eso es lo use more cilantro, epazote, pepper leaf, mint because que crece ahí. that’s what grows in each place. También hay mole oaxaqueño ¿no? They also have mole in Oaxaca, right? Si andale. Lo chistoso es que pica el mole de allá, y Yes, they do. What’s interesting is that there it’s spicy acá es dulce. and here it’s sweet. ¿A ti cómo te gusta más? How do you like it more? Dulce, sí, esta más sabroso. I think it’s tastier sweet. ¿Cuál es tu especie favorita que le da el sabor más What is your favorite spice, or what gives the best rico? flavor? No, es la cebolla que le da la base a todo. It’s actually onions which are the base of all the flavor. ¿Y cuál es la parte más difícil de tu trabajo? What’s the hardest part of your job? Ah, la hora de repartir, porque luego te piden a la The delivery time, because sometimes everyone misma hora. Quieren a las 2, pues tiene que ser a las orders at the same time. They want to eat at 2, it has to 2. A veces se retrasa uno. A las 2 o a las 3, a la hora be at 2. Sometimes you get a little behind. 2 or 3 in the de la comida. Pero todos quieren al mismo tiempo. A afternoon, that’s the time people want to eat. But since veces pasan dos o tres minutos. they all want it at the same time, sometimes a few minutes go by. 35
¿Y la gente te llama antes o todo es en persona? Do people call before or is everything ordered in person? Sí, la gente llama antes, como no puede salir de su trabajo, pues lo vamos a llevar a su trabajo. Hacemos Yes, people call before. When they can’t leave their por pedidos. Tengo un grupo de Whatsapp donde hago workplace, we deliver it to them. We do it by orders. I pedidos de comida. Les aviso que hice de comer y así. have a Whatsapp group where people can order. I tell Empiezan a pedir a qué horas lo quieren y ya. them what I prepared that day and that’s how it goes, they tell me what time they want it and that’s it. Pues está bien que todavía haya una manera de se- guirla, ¿no? It’s good that that gives you a way to maybe continue selling right? Pues sí, hay estamos batallando porque si cierran el mercado, ya sería otra cosa. Ya la gente se quedaría Yes. We’re here fighting on. If they close the markets verdaderamente encerrada. then that would be a whole other thing. Then people would be truly locked up. Supongo que ahora que todo el mundo está en la casa, todo el mundo está cocinando para ellos mismos, ¿no? I guess now that everyone’s at home, people are cooking their own food, right? Sí, todo el mundo está cocinando. Más que no hay clases, todos los hijos, todos los nietos están todos Yes, everyone is cooking. Especially since there are no ahí. Sobre todo en las familias grandes todo el mundo classes, all the kids, all the grandkids are there. Really se reunió en una sola casa para convivir y para big families decided to all get together in one house encerrarse. during the quarantine. ¿Y no hay como estudiantes o gente que no cocine Are there students or people who just don’t cook that tanto? much? No, porque yo, donde vivo, donde estoy rentando, No, because where I’m renting, there were a lot of había puros estudiantes y todos son de Oaxaca. students, all from Oaxaca. They all left back home Entonces, pues se regresaron a su pueblo, antes de before things really got serious. They went back to que se diera todo esto. Se regresaron con sus their families. A lot of the apartments are empty. familiares. Y ya varios están desocupando los There’s no money to pay rent. departamentos. No hay dinero para pagar. Have you thought of doing the same? ¿Y tú has pensado hacer lo mismo o no? Well, we were thinking of moving to a cheaper Pues estábamos pensando cambiar de casa, irnos neighborhood, where we lived before. To go back donde está un poquito más barato. Donde vivíamos there, because what we’re paying is too much. And antes. Regresarnos ahí, ajá, porque estamos pagando with the way things are, it doesn’t make sense. We’re es mucho. Y así como está la situación, pues no. Nada just working to make rent. más vamos a trabajar para la renta. And going to Oaxaca? ¿Pero irse a Oaxaca, no lo han pensado? Well no because my mother lives here in Puebla. My Pues no, porque aquí vive mi mamá, aquí en Puebla. sister lives here too, and I have a brother in Tijuana. Mis hermanos también. Mi hermana vive acá, y tengo un hermano en Tijuana. Does your mom cook as well or not really? ¿Tu mamá también cocinaba o no tanto? No, you know what, not really. She buys food some- times. She doesn’t like the kitchen. Pues fijate que no, no tanto. A veces compra comida. No le gusta estar en la cocina. 36
¿Cuando tu eras chiquita ella no cocinaba? When you were little, she didn’t cook? No. Lo que pasa es que ella se fue a Puebla para No. The thing is that she moved to Puebla to work to trabajar para nosotros. Porque nosotros vivíamos en sustain us, because we lived in a small town in el pueblo en Oaxaca. Casi no estuvo con nosotros. Por Oaxaca. She was not really with us growing up. That’s eso convivimos más con mi abuela. why we spent more time with our grandmother. ¿Y como está ahorita con los niños que no están en la How are your kids doing now that they aren’t in escuela? school? No, no hay clases. Están haciendo por internet el There’s no classes, no. They’re doing their work online trabajo y por copias y así. De hecho son muchas and through handouts. There’s actually a lot tareas. De hecho ahorita fui al internet a sacar las of homework. In fact I went to the internet cafe to print copias fueron como 260 copias de tarea. De pintar y the handouts and there were like 260 pages. Drawing de dibujar, más que nada; como son niños del kinder, and painting, mostly, since they’re in kindergarten, just puro pintar y dibujar y contar. painting, drawing and counting. Han de estar como muy hiperactivos, ¿no? They must be a little hyperactive, no? Si es lo que dicen quieren regresar a la escuela. Luego Yes, it’s what they’re saying that they want to go back apenas, cuando fue día del niño, hicieron videollamada to school. Just recently, it was Children’s Day, and they a sus maestras, sus compañeritos. Y ahí estuvieron un video chatted with their teachers and their friends. poco más animados. They seemed a little more cheerful. ¿Y están un poco desesperados? Are they a bit frustrated? Están muy aburridos si. De hecho, yo me los llevo They’re very bored yes. I actually take them to work al trabajo. Me los llevo para distraerse un poco. Y sí, so they can distract themselves a little bit. They’re son unos niños muy educados. Entienden, porque la very well-behaved kids. They understand because the maestra habló con ellos antes de que sucediera esto. teacher spoke to them before all of this happened. Antes de que se fueran de vacaciones. Ya les explicó Before they left school. She explained that they have to que había que lavarse las manos. wash their hands. ¿Y ellos entienden lo que está pasando? Do they understand what’s going on? Sí, porque a cada rato entre ellos platican y dicen no Yes because I hear them talking all the time between te vayas a salir afuera José, no Marlene porque hay themselves saying, don’t go outside Jose, no Marlene, virus, hay virus. there’s a virus, there’s a virus. Tan lindos. So cute. Si como que si entienden. Yes, I feel that they do understand. ¿Y han dicho como cuando van a volver a abrir las Have they said when they’re planning to reopen cosas? everything? Muchos dicen que final de mayo ya. Pero no lo creo, A lot of people are saying end of May. But I don’t think porque no han dicho nada los maestros. so because the teachers haven’t said anything. Pues yo creo que de pronto con lo de los pedidos a I feel like maybe the delivery will pick up a little once domicilio te empiece a ir mejor, porque la gente se people get tired of cooking all the time? cansa de cocinar todo el tiempo, ¿no? 37
Ajá, lo mismo le digo a mi esposo, le digo: no creo que Yes, I’ve been saying the same thing to my husband. les guste su propia comida cuando ya están I tell him, I don’t think they like their own food when acostumbrados a comprar fuera. Comida rápido le they’re so used to eating outside. Fast food, I tell him. digo. Ayer estábamos hablando de eso, sí. Just yesterday we were talking about that. Porque hay gente que no sabe cocinar, ¿no? Because there must be people that don’t cook well, no? Sí, por eso piden pizza y pizza. Los de las pizzas sí están abiertas ahorita porque tienen sus motos para Yes. That’s why they order pizza and then more pizza. repartir. The pizza places are all still open because they have their motorcycles to do delivery. Y tu cuando repartes a domicilio, ¿cómo haces? When you deliver, how do you do it? Caminando, cargando la charola, porque todavía no tengo coche. Por eso a veces nos retrasamos dos o By foot, carrying the tray because I don’t have a car yet. tres o cinco minutos mínimo. That’s why sometimes we get delayed two, three, five minutes minimum. ¿Y tienes manera de promocionarte, para que la gente sepa pedir de ti? Do you have some way of advertising so that people will know to call you? Pues ya todos me conocen. De hecho hicimos volantes de antojitos, de comida de todo lo que Well, they all already know me. In fact, we made flyers vendemos y anduvimos repartiendo y pues ya hablan with all the antojitos and food that we sell and we dan su dirección y ya vamos a dejar la comida. distributed them so that people can just call and give their address and we can go and drop off the food. Entonces cuántos pedidos tienes al día ahorita? How many orders do you have on an average day right Por ejemplo hoy saqué sólo cuatro pedidos, que son now? de 30 pesos. For example today I only had four orders, for 30 pesos Si pues no es mucho. Por ejemplo antes ¿cuántos ($1.25 USD) each. vendías? That’s not a lot. Before, how much would you sell? Sí, mucho. Como cien. Más aparte lo que reparto fuera y más la gente que viene a comer en el negocio. Se A lot. Like a hundred. There was what I delivered and vendía muy bien. what people came to eat at the stand. I did very well. ¿Qué es lo que mejor se vendía? What sold the most? “Bistec encebollado con ar- “Steak with onions and rice, roz, huevitos hervidos con eggs with rice, mole poblano arroz, o mole poblano con ar- with rice. It was the best deal roz. Les conviene más porque because you’d get 3 tortillas on llevan 3 tortillas de mano top of the food and the rice.” más la comida y el arroz.” 38
Bistec encebollado con arroz, huevitos hervidos con Steak with onions and rice, eggs with rice, mole poblano arroz, o mole poblano con arroz. Les conviene más with rice. It was the best deal because you’d get 3 porque llevan 3 tortillas de mano más la comida y el tortillas on top of the food and the rice. arroz. Would people eat there or take it to the office? ¿Y la gente lo comía ahí o más bien se lo llevaban para la oficina? No, they would eat there. I had some six chairs and a table and, well, they would sit there. They close their No, lo comían ahí. Tenía yo unas seis sillitas y una little legs and they squeeze. And since they see the food mesa y pues ahí se sentaban. Juntan las piernitas is good, they come back. y ahí comen. Y como ven que está buena la comida, regresan. Did you feel like you had a relationship with the clients? ¿Y sientes que tenías una relación con los clientes? Yes, well, I knew them by name. In the same way, they’d come to me and say “good afternoon Angi,” or say my Sí, bueno, los conocía por nombre. Igual a mí llegan y whole name. They’d call me by my name. me dicen “buenas tardes Angi” o así todo mi nombre, me llaman por mi nombre. Are there other stands on that block? ¿En esa cuadra hay más puestos? There’s one other. A gentleman who only sells tacos with meat. The small ones with onions, cilantro. Hay otro. Un señor de puros tacos de carne. Taquitos así chiquitos que llevan cebolla, cilantro. Do you sell tacos? ¿Tú no vendes tacos? I sell tacos placeros which have steak, spanish sausage, potatoes, avocado, cheese. That is the taco Vendo tacos placeros que llevan bistec, longaniza, placero. papa, aguacate, quesillo eso es el taco placero. How long does it take to prepare everything, every day? ¿Y cuánto te tardas preparando todo todos los días? Preparing took me 25 minutes. The food is fast, you just Preparando me tardaba 25 minutos. La comida es make the tortillas, but when they order quesadillas, rápido nada más se hacen las tortillas, pero cuando memelas, tacos placeros, all that is prepared on the piden quesadillas, memelas, tacos placeros eso lleva spot. un poco de tiempo, las preparo al momento. So the people that came to eat, from the union and all Entonces la gente que venía a comer, del sindicato y that, did they call to order before? todo eso llamaban antes? Yes. They would just come to eat. What takes a little Sí, y ya nada más venían a comer. Lo que se tardaba while is the tortillas because I would just keep the food un poco eran las tortillas porque la comida la warm. Just the tortillas on the spot. Yeah. People would mantenía yo caliente. Ya nada más las tortillas es al come every day. At any time of the day, I would have momento. Pues si, todos los días venía gente. A la people. It was often the same people and I would buy a hora que sea, siempre tenía gente. Siempre era la lot of ingredients. For example, two kilos of mushrooms, misma gente y compraba yo un buen. Por ejemplo two kilos of cheese, enough so that it would last the dos kilos de champiñones, dos kilos de quesillo, whole day. I would calculate more or less accurately. todo suficiente para que alcanzara todo el día, para no estar completando a cada rato, le calculaba yo más o menos. 39
¿Y la gente en el mercado dice que la gente está Do the people at the market say that their sales have comprando menos o es igual? gone down? Igual están comprando menos. Hay menos gente pero Yes, people are buying less. There are less people but sí hay un poco, o sea que viene así lejos por ejemplo. there’s still some. People who come from far away. So Para no salir a comprar todos los días pues compra a that they don’t have to go every day, they buy a week or la semana, cada dos semanas, depende qué tiempo two weeks’ worth, depending on how long they want to quiera encerrarse. stay inside. Pero en los mercados supongo que ya no hay gente I’m assuming that the stands in the markets don’t comiendo como memelas en el mercado, ¿no? have tables anymore right? No ya de plano no, todo para llevar. No, not at all. Everything is to take away. ¿Y sientes que la gente está preocupada? Do you feel that people are worried? Sí, están preocupados, sí, de que ya no hay gente. Yes everyone’s worried about there being less people. Varios puestos adentro del mercado están cerrados Many stands inside of the market are closed, for the por lo mismo de que ya no hay gente. Y van a un solo same reason. People are also going to the same stand puesto donde ya son clientes. where they’re already established clients. En Nueva York había mucho de eso, de restaurantes In New York, there was a lot of that, restaurants doing a domicilio. Yo creo que funcionó porque hay mucha take away. I think it’s working because people cook gente que no cocina. less. “Si y acá pues los mexicanos “Yes, and here, well, Mexican saben cocinar.” people know how to cook.” Sí y acá pues los mexicanos saben cocinar. Yes, and here, well, Mexican people know how to cook. Claro, sí. Pues como estábamos diciendo, ojalá se Yes of course. Well, like we were saying, hopefully aburran de la comida de sus mamás y te pidan. Y sí, people will get tired of their mother’s cooking and por internet te promocionanas para que la gente que order from you. Can you advertise online so that no te conoce te pueda llamar? people that don’t know you can order? Sí, se puede, pero el problema es que, por ejemplo, Yes, it’s possible. But the problem is that, for example, piden comida a Plaza Dorada, y no vamos a llegar. De if they call from Plaza Dorada, I can’t get there. I would que si vendo, vendo, pero no tengo cómo ir a dejarlo y definitely sell, but I don’t have a way to get there and I tardaría yo más. would take too long. Y en transporte público es dificil no? And with public transporation it must be difficult. Sí y más que nada ya no hay ruta que entra por allá. Yes because there are no bus routes that go there, only Puro metros. Quitaron varias rutas del camión, hay trains. They took away a lot of bus routes, there are pocas ahora. only a few left. ¿Y la gente se sigue reuniendo o está bastante Do you think people are still going out or are they encerrada en sus casas? staying home? 40
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