MACC Live Event Merck Azelis Cosmetic Compact - Selbstbräuner - Formulierungstrends
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MACC Live Event
Merck Azelis Cosmetic Compact
Selbstbräuner -
Formulierungstrends
26.03.2021
10.00 – 10.45 Uhr
Herzlich Willkommen
Azelis Personal Care – MACC Live Event DHA 03.2021
MACC Live Event
Selbstbräunungsmittel im Überblick
Dihydroxyacetone extra pure NATÜRLICHE UND
STRAHLENDE
DHA Plus
BRÄUNE VON
DHA Rapid KOPF BIS FUSS
Anwendungen
• Bräunungsemulsionen
• Bronzing-Produkte auf Basis von Gel, Spray oder Schaum sowie Bronzing-Tücher
• Hautpflegeprodukte für jeden Tag
• Bräunungskabinen ohne Lichtwirkung
• In-Shower-Anwendungen
Andere Bräunungsmittel: RonaCare® Bronzyl™
Azelis Personal Care – MACC Live Event DHA 03.2021
MACC Live Event
Selbstbräunungsmittel im Überblick
Dihydroxyacetone extra pure
• INCI: Dihydroxyacetone
• Natürlicher Ursprung (COSMOS und
NATRUE)
• Hervorragende Produktsicherheit
• Extrem lange Haltbarkeit
• Empfohlene Einsatzkonzentration: 2-
5%
Azelis Personal Care – MACC Live Event DHA 03.2021
MACC Live Event
Selbstbräunungsmittel im Überblick
DHA Plus
• INCI: Dihydroxyacetone; Sodium
Metabisulfite; Magnesiumstearate
• Besonders angenehmer Duft bei der
Bräunungsreaktion auf der Haut und
angenehmer Duft in den
Formulierungen
• Unerwünschte Abbauprodukte
entfallen praktisch.
Azelis Personal Care – MACC Live Event DHA 03.2021
MACC Live Event
Selbstbräunungsmittel im Überblick
DHA Rapid
• INCI: Dihydroxyacetone; Troxerutin
• Hautberuhigend und Anti-Aging-
Eigenschaften durch Troxerutin
• Schnellere Bräunung
• Nachhaltigere Bräune
Azelis Personal Care – MACC Live Event DHA 03.2021
Intense Hydration -
Self Tanning Foam
This oil-free foaming self-tanner gives an even, intense
and fast self-tanning summer color, safely without the
sun. Enriched with Red Algae extract and Ectoin for
extra skin moisture and ultimate cell protection.
Inside the formulation DHA RAPID
This blend of DHA and
RONACARE® ECTOIN Troxerutin delivers even,
Ectoin is the ultimate active for intense and fast self-tanning
cell protection in Skin- and Sun- together with anti-
Care products. inflammatorial and anti-
oxidative activity.
RONACARE® RENOUMER
Breakthrough discovery of the VISCARIN® PC 209
naturally occurring Polysiphonia Natural extract from red
elongata red algae which was algae (lambda carrageenan) is
found to have the most used to enhance the sensorial
extraordinary skin rejuvenating properties and to improve the
properties with proven efficacy flow properties of jota
for several types of skin aging. carrageenan hydro gels.
MACC LIVE DHA Recipe
Intense Hydration - Self Tanning Foam
Formulation reference: 934-1-1/2
Phase Product Name INCI %w/w Supplier
A demin. water Aqua 78.35
A BLANOVA® Aloe Vera Gel Conc. Juice 10x Aqua; Aloe Barbadensis Extract 1.00 Azelis
A RonaCare® Ectoin IQ Ectoin 0.30 Merck
A RonaCare® RenouMer Aqua; Algae Extract; Sodium Benzoate; Citric Acid 1.00 Merck
Methylpropandiol Stéarinerie
A DUB DIOL 5.00
Dubois
A Brontide™ Butylene Glycol 2.00 Genomatica
A Geogard® ECT Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid 0.40 Lonza
Glycerin; Sodium PCA; Sodium Lactate; Pullulan; Cellulose United
A Lubrajel Oil Natural 5.00
Gum; Xanthan Gum Guardian
A DHA Rapid Dihydroxyacetone; Troxerutin 3.00 Merck
B Viscarin® PC 209 Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) 0.10 DuPont
C Syneth™ C15 K RSPO MB Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate 3.55 Lonza
D Blanova® Citric Acid Anhydrous (20%) Aqua, Citric Acid q.s. Azelis
E Aromatic Treasure 734 Fragrance (Parfume) 0.20 IFF
Manufacturing Instructions Application lab. Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH
Disperse phase B into phase A. Contact holger.seidel@azelis.de
Add phase C and phase AB whilst mixing moderately.
Adjust pH to 4 with phase D.
Specification
Storage Test
Formulation developed by Azelis
8 Azelis PC DACH – MACC LIVE DHA Formulation Card 03 2021
Rapid Biphasic
DHA Spray
This biphasic DHA spray has a light and fresh texture and
achieves stability without the use of an emulsifier. The
combination of Vegetable Alternative to Volatile Silicon
allows the formation of two phases. The spray effectively
protects the skin against drying.
Inside the formulation
BRONTIDE™ DHA REINST
Butylene glycol from Self-tanning active of
natural, plant-based sugars vegetable origin. It is made
using safe and sustainable from a 100% natural
fermentation-based process cosmetic ingredient, based
technology. on renewable plant sources.
RONACARE® ECTOIN VEGETABLE ALTERNATIVE
Ectoin is the ultimate active TO VOLATILE SILICON
for cell protection in Skin- is a highly stable
and Sun-Care products. transparent liquid emollient
from vegetable origin and
from renewable sources.
MACC LIVE DHA Recipe
Rapid Biphasic DHA Spray
Formulation reference: 934-2-2/1
Phase Product Name INCI %w/w Supplier
A demin. water Aqua 49.00
A Sodium Chlorid Sodium Chlorid 2.00 Merck
A Brontide™ Butylene Glycol 17.00 Genomatica
A RonaCare® Ectoin Ectoin 1.00 Merck
A Actiphyte® Cucumber GL 100NP Glycerin, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract 3.00 Lipotec
A DHA reinst Dihydroxyaceton 3.00 Merck
B Citric Acid (40%) Aqua, Citric Acid q.s.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate; Hydrogenated Olive Oil
D Vegetable Alternative to Volatile Silicon 25.00 efpbiotek
Unsaponifiables
Manufacturing Instructions Application lab. Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH
Premix phase A and mix until clear.
Adjust the pH with phase B down to 4. Contact holger.seidel@azelis.de
Add phase D slowly on to of phase ABC.
Specification
Storage Test
Formulation developed by Azelis
10 Azelis PC DACH – MACC LIVE DHA Formulation Card 03 2021Quick Body-Tan
This Self-Tanning Lotion gives your skin a fast, sun-
kissed glow. The ultra-moisturising lotion is enriched
with Cucumber extract, Shea Butter and Aloe Vera.
The skin is left silky smooth and with a natural-looking
tan, without any stickiness. The formula is suitable for
all skin types.
Inside the formulation
DHA RAPID DUB 810 C MB
This blend of DHA and Troxerutin is a moisturizing emollient with a
delivers even, intense and fast light feel whose sensory profile
self-tanning together with anti- resembles cyclomethicones. It
inflammatorial and anti-oxidative can be used as a substitute for
action. Isohexadecane or Dicaprylyl
Carbonate.
ACTIPHYTE™ CUCUMBER
GL 100 NP GEOGARD® ECT
Actiphyte® of Cucumber is a is a unique, patent pending
colorless to light yellow liquid combination of the four
that may be used for its components Benzyl Alcohol,
astringent, toning, cleansing, Salicylic Acid, Sorbic Acid, and
cooling and moisturizing Glycerin, which are well-accepted
properties. in a wide range of Personal Care
products; wide pH compatibility
from pH 3 to 8.
MACC LIVE DHA RecipeQuick Body-Tan
Formulation reference : 934-4-3/1
Phase Product Name INCI %w/w Supplier
A demin. water Aqua 59.60
A Structure® XL Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 3.00 Nouryon
A RonaCare® Ectoin IQ Ectoin 0.30 Merck
A Brontide™ Butylene Glycol 3.00 Genomatica
A Blanova® Glycerin 99,5% RSPO MB Glycerin 2.00 Azelis
B Syneth™ S8 K RSPO MB Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate 2.00 Lonza
B Syneth™ S10 K RSPO MB Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 2.00 Lonza
B DUB MCT 5545 MB Caprylic Capric Triglyceride 5.00 Stéarinerie Dubois
B DUB 810 C MB Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.00 Stéarinerie Dubois
B Blanova® Vitamin E Acetat Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 Azelis
C DHA Rapid Dihydroxyacetone; Troxerutin 3.00 Merck
C demin. water Aqua 10.00
D Blanova® Citric Acid Anhydrous (40%) Aqua, Citric Acid q.s. Azelis
E Actiphyte® Cucumber GL 100NP Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Extract 3.00 Lipotec
E Blanova® Aloe Vera Gel 10* Inner Filet Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice 1.00 Azelis
E Geogard® ECT Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid 0.40 Lonza
F Himalaya Salt 546 Fragrance (Parfume) 0.20 IFF
Manufacturing Instructions Specification
Heat phases A and B up to 70°C. Flow point [mPa] 32000
Add phase B to phase A and homogenize. Viscosity@ 1/s [mPas] 72000
At around 35°C homogenize again. Storage Test 2 months @ 40°C; 2 months @ 50°C; 5 x TGC (-18°C/+40°C)
Adjust pH to 4 with phase C. Application Lab. Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH
Add phase D to phase ABC. Contact: holger.seidel@azelis.de
Add phase E to phase ABCD. Formulation developed by Azelis
12 Azelis PC DACH – MACC LIVE DHA Formulation Card 03 2021Dual Action Self-Tan Cream This Self-Tanning Cream combines anti-aging with self- tanning. It fulfills all requirements of highest standard face cream which includes UV protection, antioxidant and cell protection. A biological tanner stimulates the Melanin synthesis whereas stabilized DHA acts as the external skin tanner. Inside the formulation RONACARE® BRONZYL™ STRUCTURE® XL a brand new biological tanner Cold water swellable starch from Merck that helps enable that does not require tanning with a natural and neutralization and imparts even skin tone, which in turn excellent skin feel, as well as can contribute to UV forming the basis of stable protection. lotions. RONACARE® ECTOIN DHA PLUS Ectoin is the ultimate active Stabilzed DHA for maximum for cell protection in Skin- and stability treated with Sun-Care products. sodiumdisulfite. MACC LIVE DHA Recipe
Dual Action Self-Tan Cream
Formulation reference : 934-5-2/1
Phase Product Name INCI %w/w Supplier
A demin. water Aqua 56.10
A Dissolvine® GL-47-S Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.10 Nouryon
A RonaCare® Ectoin IQ Ectoin 0.30 Merck
A Structure® XL Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 4.00 Nouryon
B SUPREME® Polyglyceryl-3 Rice Branate; Cetearyl Alcohol; Sucrose Stearate 5.00 Sinerga
B DUB GMS MB Glyceryl Stearate 0.50 Stearinerie Dubois
B Eusolex® OCR Octocrylene 8.00 Merck
B Eusolex® 9020 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00 Merck
B RonaCare® AP Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate 1.00 Merck
B DUB OE MB Ethyl Oleate 5.00 Stearinerie Dubois
B Mackaderm® LIA MB Isoamyl Laurate 2.00 Solvay
B Douro Valley Grape Seed Oil Vitis Vinifera (grape) Seed Oil 1.00 efp biotek
B Blanova® Shea Butter - Ultra Refined™ Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter) 0.50 Azelis
B BLANOVA® AOX Mixed Tocopherols 90% (nat) Tocopherol 0.05 Azelis
B RonaCare® Bronzyl Palmitoyl Dihydroxymethylchromone 0.20 Merck
C Blanova® Citric Acid Anhydrous (20%) Aqua, Citric Acid q.s. Azelis
D demin. water Aqua 10.00
D DHA Plus Dihydroxyacetone; Sodium Metabisulfite; Magnesium Stearate 3.35 Merck
E GEOGARD® ECT Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid 0.60 Lonza
F Holisticare 416 Fragrance (Parfume) 0.15 IFF
Manufacturing Instructions Specification
Heat up phases A and B up to 70 °C. Flow point [mPa] 45000
Add phase B to phase A and homogenize Viscosity@ 1/s [mPas] 132000
At 35°C homogenize again. Storage Test 2 months @ 40°C; 2 months @ 50°C; 5 x TGC (-18°C/+40°C)
Adjust pH to 4 with phase C. Application Lab. Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH
Add phase D to phase ABC. Contact: holger.seidel@azelis.de
Add phases E and F one after another to phase ABCD.
Adjust pH to 4. Formulation developed by Azelis
14 Azelis PC DACH – MACC LIVE DHA Formulation Card 03 2021You can also read
