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SUMMER 2021 J OU R NA L THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE PRACTICE Field of the Future New Def inition of Nutrient Growing a New Crop SUSAN JENNINGS Density Goes Beyond Labels of Regenerative Farmers DAN KITTREDGE AMY HARPER & KAT CHRISTEN
CONTRIBUTORS Matan Mazursky, Educator AGRARIA JOURNAL SUMMER 2021 CONTENTS Gabby Amrhein, Megan Bachman, Beth Bridgeman, Jyoti Miller, Database Coordinator Ariella Brown, Caressa Brown, Kat Christen, Scott Montgomery, Webmaster Sheryl Cunningham, David Diamond, Emily Foubert, Pam Miller, Office Manager Rose Hardesty, Amy Harper, Bob Huston, Rachel Isaacson, Teddy Pierson, Asst. Landuse Coordinator Susan Jennings, Dan Kittredge, Jim Linne, Peggy Nestor, Kaylee Rutherford, Miller Fellow An Invitation to Pay Attention— and Thrive, SHERYL CUNNINGHAM 4 Teddy Pierson, Kenisha Robinson, Rich Sidwell, Kenisha Robinson, Farmer Training Assistant Cheryl Smith Xinyuan Shi, Americorps VISTA What’s In a Name? 5 PHOTOGRAPHY McKenzie Smith, Miller Fellow Field of the Future, SUSAN JENNINGS 6 Mark Thornton, Educator Dennie Eagleson, Amy Harper, Rose Hardesty, New Definition of Nutrient Density Goes Beyond Labels, DAN KITTREDGE 9 Tiffany Ward, Educator Susan Jennings, Teddy Pierson, Renee Wilde Joseph Young, Melrose Acres Grant Coordinator Edible Ethics: To Harvest or Not to Harvest, GABBY LOOMIS-AMRHEIN 12 ILLUSTRATION FARMER PARTNER Natural Foods – Native Edible Plants, BY TEDDY PIERSON 14 Bob Huston Jason Ward Black Farming and Beyond, ARIELLA J. BROWN HORN 15 EDITORS COMMUNITY SOLUTIONS Amy Harper and Susan Jennings Farmer Fellowship Program: Growing a New Crop of Regenerative Farmers, AMY HARPER & KAT CHRISTEN 16 BOARD OF TRUSTEES DESIGN Sheryl Cunningham, President Coming Back to the Land: Reviving a Multigenerational Legacy, BY KENISHA ROBINSON & CARESSA BROWN 18 Tika Redding Richard Sidwell, Treasurer As Below, So Above: From Healthy Soil to Healthy Body, A Conversation with Elaine Ingham, MEGAN BACHMAN 20 Megan Bachman, Secretary AGRARIA STAFF Mark Cohen Optimal Health: A Physician/Farmer Perspective, JIM LINNE 22 Robert Bacheller, Land Team Jessica D’Ambrosio Agraria: A New Educational Model, RICH SIDWELL 24 Amber Bodkin, Grantwriter Donna Haller Naomi Bongorno, Development Manager Around Agraria, Photography, AMY HARPER & DENNIE EAGLESON 26 Kevin Hallinan Ariella Brown, Black Farming Conference Lead Sarah Hippensteel Hall From Activist to Advocate: How I Became a Voice for Black Agriculture, CHERYL WOOD SMITH 28 Sherry Chen, Melrose Acres Manager Jim Linne Kat Christen, Farm Training Manager Macy Reynolds Grounded Hope: From the Highways to the Hedgerows, RENEE WILDE 30 David Diamond, K-12 Education Lead Steven Roe Food as Farmacy, PEGGY NESTOR 32 Alberta Dempsey, Research Intern Cheryl Smith Lyric Ester, Land Team for argiope, GABBY LOOMIS-AMRHEIN 33 Emily Foubert, Nature Education Lead AGRARIA Nature Based Education During a Pandemic, DAVID DIAMOND 34 Adam Green, GIS Coordinator and Web Developer Box 243 Rose Hardesty, Social Media 131 E. Dayton Yellow Springs Road Building Community Through Reskilling, BETH BRIDGEMAN 37 Amy Harper, Communications Manager/Research Liaison Yellow Springs, OH 45387 VOLUNTEERS, 38 Kelly Hudson, Educator 937-767-2161 Rachel Isaacson, Americorps VISTA SNAPSHOTS Around and About Agraria, AMY HARPER 40 Susan Jennings, Executive Director CALENDAR, 46 Stephanie Kelly, Educator Electric Blue Songs to Nurture the Spirit, EMILY FOUBERT 48 Alex Klug, Food and Farm Program Manager Matthew Lawson, Project Manager CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE PRACTICE FUNDR AISING UPDATES, 49 2 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 3
INTRODUCTION about food legacies—Gabby Loomis-Amrhein asks us to antioxidants, while other spinach may have only a small BY SHERYL CUNNINGHAM pay attention to where and who we are as we forage and amount? Megan Bachman’s interview with Elaine Ingham the impacts our foraging might have on ecosystem health. puts a new spin on an old idea—you are what you eat—to Caressa Brown and Kenisha Robinson turn our attention make the connection between healthier soils and healthier toward their family histories, and their grandfathers’ and humans. In her feature on Leslie Edmunds of Clem & fathers’ relationships with growing food, and how those Thyme Nutrition, Peggy Nestor explains that there is work An Invitation to Pay Attention growing lessons are connected to their present and future, and that of their community. Cheryl Smith looks back being done, just down the road, for people hungry to learn about the healing power of real, whole food. — and Thrive toward the decline of her childhood home in Dayton, Susan Jennings asks us to pay attention to the and the liberatory capacity of land reclamation and food bigger picture, and how new understandings of our interconnectedness with each other and the planet can lead production for Black Americans. us to a healthful future. Other writers featured in this edition ask us to pay I started to grow some of my own food in the spring of Nope. What do we need to thrive? At Agraria, the answers start attention to the relationship between soil, food, human 2009. I knew nothing about soil health, but the house I had Soil. Depleted soil. I was asking plants to grow without in the soil. health, and the health of ecosystems. Jim Linne walks us moved into had a big garden and I decided to use it. I got on paying attention to what they needed to thrive. through rebuilding a farm, literally from the ground up, Sheryl Cunningham is president of the Agraria Board the Internet and read about something called the “double- What do we need to thrive? And who, or what, counts as while Dan Kittredge directs our attention to the mystery of of Trustees and a communication professor and faculty dig” method, a sort of tilling by hand. That sounded good “we”? nutrient density—how can some spinach be packed with sustainability coordinator at Wittenberg University. to me. It turned out to be an enormous amount of work and The writers featured in this edition of the Agraria I’m still not sure if my lower back has ever forgiven me for it. Journal ask us for something, though they do so gently and I planted what seemed like everything that first spring—and with encouragement. They ask us to pay attention to the food it all grew! we put into our bodies, how it was grown, and by whom. Year two, my back and I decided not to double dig. Instead, I attempted to till in a rather clueless way, the They also ask us to pay attention to the legacies of food and growing, what has been lost, and what can and should be What’s in a Name? borrowed tiller bucking left and right, raked a bit of the soil regained. Over the years our organization has gone by different around, and weeded what was left. My food grew again, Beth Bridgeman talks to us about skills from the past names, but the work has been essentially the same: but not as well. Too much water? Not enough? Too humid? and the joy that comes with learning that they are still to research, educate and promote community as both a Plants in the wrong spots? worth passing down. Other writers encourage us to think cooperative attitude and place-based way of life. Founded in 1940 as Community Service, Inc., the intent was to serve small communities by disseminating ideas and strategies for their economic and cultural vitality. It was only later that the term “community service” came to mean a type of local volunteering. So in the early 2000s, the organization began using The Community Solution to highlight the ways that community — local, cooperative living — was the solution out in several of his books. to many of our most pressing challenges, namely oil and The name Agraria speaks to the work to both reclaim resource depletion. and reimagine a more rooted way of life in deep relationship In 2009, we rebranded as The Arthur Morgan to the land and one another. It brings us back to our Institute for Community Solutions, honoring the work of foundations as an organization, and as a civilization. our pioneering founder and reflecting our research and And it brings us to another name change for our education prowess as a new kind of think tank. 80-plus year-old organization. The legacy that began The 2017 purchase of our 128-acre farm brought with Community Service and continued with Community another shift. We called it Agraria in a nod to both a Solutions will now live on under the banner of the Agraria low-energy community design crafted by Pat Murphy and Center for Regenerative Practice. After all, the more things Morgan’s vision of vibrant rural cultures and economies laid change, the more they stay the same. Jacoby Creek crossing on Agraria. AMY HARPER 4 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 5
DIRECTOR’S NOTE BY SUSAN JENNINGS The Field of the Future “The answers you get depend on the questions you ask.” -Thomas Kuhn As we enter a new decade, the show up in laboratories that cannot be extreme version of this is seeing all ground beneath our feet continues explained by the current understanding living things as nothing more than to shift as the natural and human of how reality is constructed. When machines set loose in a random systems that sustain us are increasingly anomalies proliferate, science enters universe. Rene Descartes famously imperiled. Yet our greatest challenge a crisis period that is resolved when operated on his wife’s dog when it was DENNIE EAGLESON may be the collapse of the narratives a new paradigm arises that shifts awake to show that animals did not that have guided us—narratives about understanding and practices. have a soul. Materialist science assumes other and the planet we inhabit. This an air-conditioned office, and AI- scientific underpinning of the Gaia our future, about “progress” and It's clear to me that we are in this that wholes can be cut into parts thinking is evident in agricultural enhanced humans are promoted as an hypothesis and deep systems thinking. technology, about our relationships crisis space between a world organized without fundamentally altering their systems that suggest we can kill major evolutionary option, we know that we Our understanding of frequencies with each other and the natural world. by materialist science, conceptualized nature. parts of the food web, such as insects are on the edge of an historical cliff. as communication helps us to see Some of the proffered descriptions of by Newton and Descartes, and Many of our most pressing and soil, without harming ourselves, We are on the verge of breaking the that trees and plants are talking to our present—that we are in a time of an arising quantum paradigm, as problems have at their root materialist and confine animals in darkness as if delicate threads that bind us to each one another and whales and bees are civilizational and ecological collapse, a understood by Einstein and Bohm. thinking. Climate change, ecological they could be reduced to a piece of other and the planet. navigating by sonar. In fact these are great reset, a great turning, and a long The tenets of Scientific overshoot, rampant degenerative a corporate food “chain.” In other Yet fully embracing the arising just a few known examples of how the emergency — provide helpful framing. Materialism (also known as scientism) diseases, hunger, and inequity systems, materialist thinking shows up quantum paradigm gives us reason for fundamental underpinnings of life are But there are longer scientific and include the hypothesis that the natural share a basic premise that we are in siloed institutions and professions— hope, and a toolkit for change available akin to a field of energy that connects historical arcs that illuminate a broader world is without consciousness. An fundamentally separate from each like urban planning systems that to all. The double-slit experiment that us in magical yet potentially traceable context for our predicament and separate the engineers who design forms one basis for quantum physics ways. provide new mindsets for developing roads from the biologists who deal was first performed in 1801—and Practices based on the on-the-ground solutions to our systemic with the challenges of toxic run off. has since become the most replicated understanding of this unity, and the crises. Also witness energy systems created experiment in scientific history. This need to repair the systems that threaten Thomas Kuhn’s The Structure of without a concern for the limits of their experiment shows that light is both it, are proliferating across the planet. Scientific Revolutions, first published component parts, and health systems wave and particle—and that waves In natural systems, through rewilding in 1962, is a history of scientific that ignore nutrition and the need for become particles when they are projects and wildlife corridors and discovery that lays out a thesis that people to be in community with each observed. The collapse of the wave bridges, we are helping to restore science, rather than progressing from other and nature. function into concrete reality, in other biological communities. In our insight to insight in measured steps The atomized separateness words, happens when we pay attention. human communities, degrowth and through experimentation, actually epitomized by a one-size-fits all This linking of consciousness cooperative initiatives; alternative takes its biggest leaps through new materialist culture urges us toward an to the creation of concrete reality, work and currencies; and doughnut theories that arise outside the bounds evermore brittle centralized control coupled with an understanding of the and ecological economics are helping of the accepted science—think the of all systems by an evermore distant unity that underlies all life, gives us us to mend the divides between us— Copernican Revolution. In this other. When drone strikes that kill principles and practices for re-mending and pull us back from the ecological narrative, “normal” science starts people on the other side of the our relationships with nature and with edge. Permaculture and regenerative to become stressed when anomalies AMY HARPER planet are done by an “operator” in each other. Quantum theory is the agriculture are showing us ways to feed Fall colors along Mary's Way, the bike trail connecting Agraria with Yellow Springs. 6 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 7
people healthfully while leaving food for through the rubble? Clearly, the future agricultural practices and the healing our fellow creatures. And forest bathing, is malleable, and dependent on our of the systems by which we share BY DAN KITTREDGE outdoor schools, and an explosion of dreams as well as our doings. food; and the healing of the silos of people starting to grow their own food, We chose to call Agraria a Center education through transdisciplinary are providing opportunities for deep for Regenerative Practice because hands-on initiatives. We share our work immersion and reconnection between we understand that the healing that with multiple institutional partners, New Definition of Nutrient Density people and planet. needs to happen on the planet goes many of whom are written about in this Kuhn stresses that the scientist’s far beyond the regeneration of soils. journal. Together with our funders and tools and viewpoint determine the Regenerative practices are those that Goes Beyond Labels volunteers, they are helping to weave outcome of experiments. If what move forward people, institutions, and a field of the future that is diverse and we pay attention to determines the projects in an evolutionary-spiraling filled with creativity and hope. We outcome of our future, we might cycle of growth and development. invite you to join us as we develop a think of attention as one of the most Our nonprofit’s current work plan As a child in elementary school I new narrative of the possible important resources we have. Do we assumes that we need to pay attention remember telling my science teacher choose to “pay” our limited attention to multiple levels of healing—the that I was an Organic Farmer. The to our collapsing structures, or to healing of the biosphere and the Susan Jennings is the Executive Director disdain with which she responded in these vigorous new shoots growing urban/rural divide; the healing of our of Agraria. front of my peers by saying “organic means contains carbon, so all farmers are organic farmers” sticks with me to this day. It was not actually that long ago that a group of back-to-the land homesteaders took a word that meant one thing in the world of science and redefined it to create a cultural touch point that now has a significant meaning globally. In much the same way, food scientists have defined nutrient density differently than have those in the broader food movement. Specifically, PHOTO COURTESY OF BFA they determine the nutrient density Bionutrient Meter developed by the Bionutrient Food Association (BFA) measures the nutrient density index of a crop by its average level of of food. nutrients per unit calorie. For example, nutritionally uniform. This assumption effectively process standards, not quality kale has on average a relatively high is foundationally flawed. standards. A crop is either organic or level of nutrients but a low level of My experience as a farmer has not, local or not. There is no subtlety or calories. By this metric then kale has been that some crops have greater nuance in them. a high nutrient density score. Rice has sheen, vigor, vibrancy, pest and disease For a decade, the Bionutrient Food many more calories in it per unit and so resistance, flavor and shelf life than Association, which I helped found and would have a low nutrient density score. others. My understanding is that there serve as executive director, has been For the broader food movement, are some profound nutrient variations working to expand our understanding however, nutrient density has to do with in these crops, and these are really what of this new definition of nutrient quality, with how nutritious one bunch I should be striving for rather than density, and for the past four years we of kale is in relation to another. Or one a label like Organic or Regenerative have been using the scientific process to bag of rice to another. Among food or local or Non-GMO etc. None of do so. scientists there is an implicit assumption these labels correlate to the inherent We devised a strategy to move this that all kale or rice is relatively nutritional quality of the crop and are process forward: Volunteers planted raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, currants, and jostaberries in Agraria's perennial pantry garden. 8 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 9
1) Identify the nutritional variation conference that fall. carrot has as much copper as those if you ate one leaf of the highest In 2020 we increased the number conditions. This will allow us to that exists in crops so that an empirical In 2018 we established our first three carrots, and that leaf of spinach antioxidant level spinach on January of crops to 20 and broadened our build correlations from management definition of the nutritional density lab to begin identifying the nutritional has as much iron as those 18 leaves 1 of a year, you would have to eat one base of labs from the primary lab in to quality in a way that should give of any individual crop could be variation in food and chose two crops of spinach. When it came to those leaf of the lowest antioxidant level Ann Arbor to the first satellite lab at significant insight to growers about accomplished. to begin with: carrots and spinach. higher order nutritional compounds, spinach every day for the entire year to Chico State in California and our first what limiting factors they can change 2) Identify the environmental We reached out to our community for antioxidants and polyphenols, it was get the same level as you received on European lab, in partnership conditions and causal factors that volunteers and asked for samples of 75:1 – 200:1. As in this leaf of spinach January 1st of the most nutritious one! with Valorex, in the relate to those varied nutrient density these two crops to be shipped to the has as many antioxidants as those 75 Most impressively perhaps we Normandy region of France. readings. lab. We received samples from gardens, leaves of spinach and that carrot has as were able to build a calibration on We added oats and wheat many polyphenols as those 75 carrots. This variation did not correlate "The results we found in this short year with local or organic or any other labeling or marketing type. Some non- of assessment were nothing short of organic carrots in a grocery store, for astounding." example, had much more nutrition in them than some organic carrots from those six crops for our first-generation to our assessments, and the local farmers market. Bionutrient Meter. The calibration is we increased the number In 2019 we added lettuce, cherry not perfect, but we have proved that we of farms we are getting tomatoes, kale, and grapes to our can build a handheld spectrometer at a management data from AMY HARPER assessment process along with soil consumer price point that can be used to more than 125. We will Corn, bean, and squash, known as the Three Sisters, have been at the center of indigenous agriculture and food traditions for from 35 farms where those crops in real time and non-invasively to give now have more meaningful centuries. The three complementary crops grow in Agraria's were grown, and management and readings about nutrient density in food. data about environmental staff garden. environmental conditions data like cover cropping, crop variety, soil to increase overall function in the minerals, tillage practice, soil carbon, biological system of the operations. fertility amendments and fertilizers, This work has been accomplished irrigation type, soil biological activity, solely through charitable donations so mulching etc. With the 2019 data all information, raw data, hardware we now have the ability to overlay engineering, software code, etc. remains all of these different dynamics in open source and in the commons in Dan Kittredge PHOTO COURTESY OF BFA relation to each other. After reviewing perpetuity. We want to make sure that farms, farm stands, grocery stores and this information, although from a 3) Build and calibrate a hand-held free access to the best information farmers markets, ranging from Maine relatively small data set of 35 farms, nutrient density meter that anyone, is available to all globally regardless to Iowa. We got local, organic, and it became clear that no one factor from grower to consumer, could use of resources. We hope to have a not organic. We looked at 16 different like type of seed, no-till, or fertility to get a real-time assessment of the comprehensive definition of nutrient elements in the crops, like calcium, product correlates with nutrient density food they want so that there would density with cutting edge spectrometers potassium, copper and zinc, as well as variation. It seems to be a combination be no need or role for a bureaucratic polyphenols and antioxidants, two well of these factors. and a deep understanding of how to certification system. defined plant secondary metabolites Also in 2019 we were able to verify do more well within the next five years. 4) Engage as many aligned partners associated with flavor and nutritional that the dramatic nutritional variation The level of support for our work is as possible who also had critical value. in crops, both in the mineral levels as really the primary variable. subject matter expertise. We call this The results we found in this first well as the higher order compounds, partnership the Real Food Campaign. year of assessment were nothing short is present in the broader spectrum of Dan Kittredge has been an organic farmer for In 2017, we created our first of astounding. crops assessed. The most significant more than 30 years and is the founder and generation “Bionutrient Meter” and The variations for mineral levels variation we found was the antioxidant AMY HARPER executive director of the Bionutrient Food presented it at the Soil and Nutrition The staff garden on the front campus of Agraria contains native perennials as well as annual crops. were from 3:1 to 18:1. As in, this levels in spinach: 364.5:1. That means Staff members Naomi Bongorno and Kat Christen tended the garden on a staff work day in May. Association. 10 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 11
Edible Ethics TO HARVEST OR NOT TO HARVEST BY GABBY LOOMIS-AMRHEIN Foraging for food is an ancient plants have on the communion I or non-native plants vs. native plants. tradition spanning cultures, and now seek with them? Let’s take Ramps for example, Allium geographic and political boundaries. • What are the potential ecological tricoccum, var. tricoccum or burdickii. The practice is seeing an uptick in effects of my harvesting or Much has been written by others recent decades in the U.S., particularly promoting the consumption of this about this wonderful plant. This among folks who appreciate having a food? native Allium (onion family) is a native relationship with the outdoors. This • What is the difference between woodland plant known for inhabiting trend, along with the current ecological “can” and “should” in harvesting shaded areas with good soil quality. footprint of global trade and market- and in eating each of the foods I The leaves and bulb of the plant driven relationships with nature, has forage? are a delectable edible, tasting like a From left: Garlic mustard flower, ramp leaf, ramp flower TEDDY PIERSON created many ethical quandaries. • If I find myself at odds with the rich, sweet, combination of the garlic Some that are often on my mind questions above or similar ones, and onion commonly found in U.S. fraction of a given patch or population, potential to outcompete native plants however, in relation to garlic mustard include: are there alternatives or do I need supermarket chains. It is often made while others still will encourage such as ramps, increasing the already consumption over ramps. I am a • Whose land am I on and what to set boundaries with myself now into pesto, used as an onion/garlic foragers to eat other plants entirely. ecologically cumbersome footprint of forager on colonized land who is does that mean about how I should in relation to these foods? garnish, and of course the foragers In the case of ramps, this often looks the history of this country. descended from colonizers. My colonial forage and what I eat? This last question is becoming a favorite in many places, cooked low like never harvesting the bulb, only This plant, in the Brassica or relation to ramps and to garlic mustard • What bearing does the way my hot one in foraging circles, particularly and slow in butter with morels, which taking one leaf from a plant of two mustard family, is also edible in a are different than the relationships ancestors’ interactions with these as it involves the concept of “invasive” also appear in early to mid-spring. or more leaves, and only taking a garlicky way. As its common name other peoples hold with these plants. The questions when applied here, fraction of these leaves per patch, with suggests, garlic mustard is more of a Far be it from me to suggest to any bring some issues to the table. Ramps the harvest spread across the patch. garlic/mustard taste combination native person what they should and are a plant with a reproductive life The percentage of patch harvested when set beside the sweet garlic/onion should not eat on their land. Far be cycle regularly documented at up varies widely. I have seen folks suggest flavor of ramps. I will not lie; ramps it from me to suggest to historically to seven years. This means it takes everything from 1/3 to 1/250th of any easily outcompete in the kitchen. and systemically impoverished the plant up to seven years to reach given patch. This brings up another However, I have had incredible garlic Appalachians to refrain from consum- maturity, flower, and reproduce. So, issue though: What if 20 other foragers mustard pesto, and mixed with other ing ramps, a traditional food in the if I walk into the woods and pull a interact with this patch in this way? spring greens, it gives salads a great region. The communion we hold with bunch of ramps from the ground, I’m Such compounded foraging would kick. Additionally, the ethics of harvest- food and with where and from whom likely not doing a great job of either surely negate honorable harvesting ing as much garlic mustard as you it comes, is deeply personal, cultural, stewarding the population in its own practices. can see in the name of conserving ecological, and political. right, its place in the ecosystem, or To which there is another native plant diversity and populations I for one look forward to the ensuring future harvests for myself or alternative, named garlic mustard. and stewarding local ecosystems far coming weeks wherein I will spend my other foragers. Garlic mustard is an out-of-place or outweighs the potential of contributing days after work stewarding the land Alternatives, however, have been “invasive” plant found in the eastern to the diminution of those native and eating seasonally unique pesto in proposed. Many folks will speak of U.S. It readily colonizes most any soil populations. In sum, I adhere to the one fell swoop. performing an honorable harvest, in shaded areas, though it particularly harvest of garlic mustard to fill my using only parts of the plant so it can thrives in many of the same habitats halitosis needs. Gabby Loomis-Amrhein is a naturalist, birder, still grow, as well as only harvesting a that ramps do. Garlic mustard has the I do have a strong caveat, and former lead on the land team at Agraria. Garlic mustard leaves TEDDY PIERSON 12 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 13
Natural Foods – Native Edible Plants BY TEDDY PIERSON Black Farming and Beyond WOOD SORREL much information about the nutritional content of wood Oxalis stricta nettle, though its relative stinging nettle is considered a super BY ARIELLA J. BROWN HORN Description: Small yellow flower with five petals, power in terms of its nutritional content. It is high in iron, bright green heart shaped leaflets in sets of 3 - classic calcium, protein, and vitamins C, A, and K, among other Early last year a small group of the Justice for Black Farmers Act now “shamrock” shape, fruits resemble miniature okra. things. volunteers came together to create before Congress recognizes that as well S.E. PHOTOGRAPHY Growth habits: Common garden and lawn “weed,” can a platform to not only celebrate the as the injustices of the past that left so of the roundtable discussions and will form dense mats EVENING PRIMROSE include sources for grants and funding Oenothera biennis Black and underrepresented farming many Black farmers landless. If passed Edible parts: Leaves, flowers, and fruits. Sour, lemony taste. community in Southwest Ohio, but into law it would create a new Equitable opportunities, information about Harvest late spring to early fall. Fruits are delightfully crisp Description: Tall (3-6’), biennial plant with dark green, upcoming events, a profile of a Black also to take a look back at the history of Land Access Service under the USDA and crunchy. Can be used in salads, cooked greens, soups, narrow, pointed leaves with a light-green or red contrasting farmer from our region, and much farming in the Black community and that would issue land grants of 160 sauces, garnishes, teas, and as a cool, sweetened lemonade- mid-rib. Upper portion of the plant has 1” wide yellow more. To subscribe to the newsletter, serve as a catalyst for the next generation acres apiece to up to 20,000 experienced like drink. flowers with four petals that come together to form a long contact Rachel Isaacson, risaacson@ of Black farmers. The result was the first Black farmers annually, through 2030. Nutrition: High in iron, calcium, and vitamin c. slender tube. Flowers bloom early summer to early fall. Black Farming Conference in Southwest This would expand Black-owned communitysolution.org. Only a few flowers bloom at a time, opening during the Our keynote speaker for this year’s Ohio, held virtually in September. farmland by up to 32 million acres. evening and closing late the following morning. Unopened conference will be Leah Penniman, co- Antioch College, The National (Source: https://www.agriculture.com/ buds are found above the blooming flowers, and seed pods founder of Soul Fire Farm and author Afro-American Museum and Cultural news/business/justice-for-black-farmers- found below. of Farming While Black. Ms. Penniman Center, and Central State University bill-introduced-in-senate) Growth habits: Sunny, dry areas such as field edges is a highly sought-after speaker, and partnered with us on the conference, In 1920, there were nearly 926,000 and meadows. we are delighted she has accepted and we received generous sponsorship Black farmers, compared with fewer Edible parts: Taproot of 1st year growth (basal rosette of our invitation to join us this year. Our support from Nationwide Insurance, than 50,000 today. Community leaves) can be cooked and used like other root vegetables conference theme will be Black Farming: The Ohio Farm Bureau, and Farm Solutions/Agraria hopes to help WOOD NETTLE and has a spicy taste. Young shoots and leaves of second- Credit of Mid-America as well as other change this narrative through the Community Land and Food Sovereignty. Laportea canadensis year growth (flowering stalk) can be eaten raw or cooked as If living through a global pandemic over contributions and in-kind donations. creation of the Black Farmers Network. Description: Tall (2-5’) medium green plant with large, a spicy green. Harvest mid to late spring before flowering. the past year has taught us anything, With more than 400 attendees from We are bringing local Black and alternate, serrated leaves. Stalks and leaves are covered Flowers and buds, spicy and a little sweet, can be added to it is that we as a society need to get around the country over a two-day underrepresented farmers together with stinging hairs. This is a native plant often mistaken for salads or used as a garnish. Seeds have a pleasant flavor and back to growing our own food, truly period and more than 1,000 who pre- for quarterly roundtables, publishing a another member of the nettle family, stinging nettle (Urica can be roasted, used likewise as a garnish, or an addition to knowing where our food comes from, registered for the conference, it was clear quarterly Black farming newsletter, and dioica). However, the stinging nettle has pairs of opposite breads. and supporting our local, family and that we had struck a common chord sponsoring the annual Black Farmers leaves only, while wood nettle has some alternate leaves. Nutrition: The oil of the seeds has the highest amount community farms. Be on the lookout for with our focus on Black farming. conference. These are small ways in Growth habits: Moist, rich soils, floodplain and bottomland of gamma-linolenic acid, more conference details soon. The keynote address, by Dr. Anna which we can be better citizens of our woodlands, colony forming an Omega 6 fatty acid, For more information about the Lisa Cox took us back to pre-civil war community. They are also ways of Edible parts: Shoots, tops, young leaves, and seeds. Best of any known food and Black Farmers Network or to offer times, before Ohio was a state, to learn saying thank you to the farmers who eaten early to mid-summer. Gloves must be used to harvest; also contain the amino suggestions about how we might better about how Black pioneers cultivated work every day to put food on our tables. boiling neutralizes the sting. acid tryptophan. Evening serve and strengthen the region’s Black the land in this region and created a The goal of the Black Farmers Can be eaten as a cooked primrose is also a source of farming community, please contact livelihood for themselves before it was Network is to create a platform for the green, an addition to soups protein, carbohydrates, beta blackfarmersconferenceoh@gmail.com. all stripped away by racist laws, policies, Black farming community to network, or casseroles, or made into carotene, potassium, and and practices that robbed Black as well discuss relevant farming topics, share Ariella J. Brown Horn is Associate Director tea. Seeds are very similar to vitamin B3. as indigenous people of their land and insights, gain peer support, and connect of Gender Equity Programs and Education flax seeds and can be used in agrarian ways of life. with resources. Our next network at Antioch College, coordinator of the Black hot cereals or breads. Teddy Pierson is a naturalist, photographer, and member of the land Access to land is one of the biggest roundtable will be held in October. Our Farmer Network, and a member of the planning Nutrition: There is not barriers small scale farmers face, and quarterly newsletter is an extension committee for the Black Farming conference. team at Agraria. 14 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 15
NEW FA R M E R FE L LOWS H I P P RO G R AM Growing a New Crop of Regenerative Farmers BY AMY HARPER AND KAT CHRISTEN A vision Agraria has had since its founding — to the Black Farming Network coordinated by Ariella Brown serve as an incubator for beginning farmers — became of Agraria. a reality this spring when the organization launched the Fellows without property of their own will be able Regenerative Farmer Fellowship, in partnership with The to establish plots on Agraria and on Agraria’s partner in Nature Conservancy and Central State University. Springfield, Melrose Acres Urban Agriculture Center. This pilot program will support six beginning farmers Leading the training will be Kat Christen, who developed, through 25 weeks of education and training in regenerative operated, and managed the Antioch College Farm for agricultural practices and business planning. The first 10 years. She has also led educational programming on class of Farmer Fellows is a group of six women, most of Smaller Footprint Farm, which she and her husband, Doug whom are Black, Indigenous, or People of Color (BIPOC). Christen, have owned and operated since 2006. Supporting They represent both urban and rural sites in Montgomery, Kat will be Program Assistant Kenisha Robinson, who is Greene and Clark counties. According to the 2017 Ag also participating as a Fellow in the program. Census, less than 1% of farmers in Ohio are BIPOC, and A unique feature of the program is the financial Regenerative Farming Fellows Kenisha Robinson and River Johnson with Kat Christen at Agraria. DENNIE EAGLESON of these farmers, 30-43% are new and beginning farmers. support the Fellows will receive: $12/hour for 20 hours The training includes workshops focused on per week over the course of the program, from April 19 either low or non-paid, creating a barrier for low-wealth regenerative practices and business planning as well as through October 8. A grant secured by TNC from the “non-privileged” groups, according to a 2015 study, tours of successful farms and/or markets. It will allow North Central Region of Sustainable Agriculture Education “Situating on-farm apprenticeships within the alternative participants to build capacity for their own sites and and Research (NCR-SARE) program provides funding for agrifood movement: Labor and social justice implications” growing operations and to connect and collaborate with the stipends. (MacAuley, L. and Niewolny, K. Journal of Agriculture, farmers and organizations that support farmers, including The majority of farm internships and trainings are Food Systems, and Community Development, April 8, 2016). The study called in part for consideration of strategies that “provide apprentice farmers the equivalent of minimum wage with benefits,” and ways to “supplement apprentices’ educational activities through the land-grant system, programming initiatives, and programs that have had demonstrated success in providing such support.” This project addresses these issues of equity. The first cohort of six participants includes a diverse range of experiences and interests within the field of regenerative growing and within their communities. Participants have expressed interest in growing annual crops, flowers, and native nursery plants, agroforestry, perennial crop production, and more. In addition, participants are interested in addressing food security in their communities, learning more about specific growing systems, building growing capacity at their sites, selling products, business planning and/or meeting other growers. The Fellowship program will be tailored, whenever possible, DENNIE EAGLESON DENNIE EAGLESON Program Assistant Kenisha Robinson, of Trotwood, who is also a Fellow in the program, with Fellow Omope Daboiku, from Edgemont Garden in to meet the interests and goals of this exciting new cohort. Fellow River Johnson with Mandy Knaul, who provided rototiller training Dayton, and Trinity Hoskins, of Springfield. to Fellows. 16 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 17
Caressa’s goals for Veggie Soul: BY KENISHA ROBINSON & CARESSA BROWN The Urban Farmers’ Market was to partner with churches located in West Dayton and Trotwood to host a weekly traveling farmers market and also teach residents of the two communities Coming Back to the Land how to garden at a community plot in West Dayton. This initiative brought out multiple generations to learn to R EVIVING A M U LTIG E N E R AT I O NAL L EGACY garden throughout the summer of An edited version of this article appeared in the and were just one generation away of debt to a white farmer in a part of 2020. However, due to COVID-19 Black Farming Newsletter from the sharecropping era. For her Alabama that did not allow Black kids related shutdowns, the churches closed KENISHA ROBINSON their doors, and the market end of this Kenisha Robinson and Caressa grandparents and great grandparents, to receive an education. He, his wife, Friends and family pitched in to help prepare the ground and plant the first crops in Brown are childhood friends who farming to feed their family was a and their nine young children had to Nouorganic Farm. community outreach initiative did not joined forces in 2019 to address the necessity, not an option. work off their debt in the farmer’s field but he never taught Caressa to garden Kenisha’s desire to reconnect with the get off of the ground. Kenisha and food desert crisis in the West Dayton Both of her parents’ families during Alabama’s long growing season. because he wanted her to focus on land—and that alchemy generated two Caressa opted to donate their first-year and Trotwood, Ohio, communities. moved north to pursue better When winter months came around and getting an education. She was a part new local food ventures in Dayton— harvest to those who requested it and Kenisha is a “surprise” third opportunities; they wanted more out there was no work for Black people, of the first generation in her family to Kenisha’s Nourganic Life Farm and gave the remaining produce away to generation farmer. Though she grew of life for their future generations. Caressa’s grandfather had to ask for a receive a K-12 education in one school Caressa’s Veggie family and friends. up on her family farm in Trotwood, Kenisha’s paternal grandfather owned cash advance from the white family to system, and one of the first in her Soul: The Urban she did not intend to become a horses, raised chickens, and grew feed his family. The cycle continued for family to earn a college degree and take Farmers’ Market. “For her grandparents and great farmer. Her parents grew up in the produce on his farm in New Lebanon, almost a decade until one night, her advantage of opportunities that her The two women grandparents, farming to feed their south, in Georgia and Alabama, Ohio, and her father raised pigs and grandfather had enough. He wanted father and grandfather never dreamed completed The Ohio hogs and grew an array of better for his children. possible. She has a bachelor’s degree in State University family was a necessity, not an option." vegetables and fruits around The growing season was over, and organizational/educational leadership Extension’s New and their farm while also working a as usual he had requested an advance and is now working on a degree in Beginning Farm College and went on They plan to continue encouraging full-time job as a mail-carrier. from the white family that he and his urban affairs. to obtain GAPS Certifications from area residents to adopt self-sustaining Kenisha’s parents encouraged family were essentially enslaved to. Caressa begged her father for years Cornell University, in 2020. They also and self-sufficient lifestyles by growing her to take a different path, Only this time, he had no intention to help her start and garden, and in attended the first annual Black Farming their own food, not only for their toward higher education and of having his family work it off during 2019 he drove up from Texas to build Conference: Beyond “40 Acres and a consumption but also to produce fresh, a career they thought would the next growing season. Instead, he a small garden box in her backyard Mule,” last year and recently became non-pesticide grown produce for sale provide a more stable and packed up his wife and kids and fled, and teach her the basics of gardening. members of the Ohio Ecological Food direct to the community. lucrative life. She set her sights in the middle of the night, risking their She fell in love with the process and and Farm Association. Kenisha, who never dreamed that on college and the big city lives. He moved them to town in Texas power of growing her own food. So Kenisha’s initial goal for Nourganic she would one day become a farmer, lights, graduated from Wright where he heard there was a school that much so, that it fueled her quiet dream Life Farm was to plant a variety of has reconnected with her farming roots, State University with a degree taught Black kids in K-4th grades, then of owning a farm, and she flooded her vegetables to get an idea of what would continuing the legacy her father worked in public administration, to another Texas town where there was Facebook timeline with updates about grow on the land. A friend with tractor so hard to leave for his family. She and eventually moved to school that taught Black kids 4th-8th her garden and her desire to own plowed, tilled and disked a small patch now sees farming and growing your Chicago, where she worked grades, and then once again to another a farm. of land for them; they purchased a few own food as a necessity, rather than for the Greater Chicago Food town in Texas that taught Black kids in Kenisha, who had moved back to hand tools and enlisted some family an option. “It’s interesting how history Depository, the food bank for 9th-12th grades. Ohio to help care for her ailing father, and friends to assist with planting and repeats itself,” she says. Cook County. Caressa’s father migrated to saw Caressa’s post, and reached out harvesting. The experience helped Caressa, is the youngest child Dayton, Ohio, after serving in the U.S. to her with an offer: the opportunity renew Kenisha’s connection to and love Kenisha Robinson is program assistant for of a Jim Crow-era sharecropper Marine Corps, and relocated back to to grow on her family-owned property of nature. She not only wants to restore the Regenerative Farming Fellowship Program from Alabama. Her grandfather Texas, after she graduated from high in Trotwood, which had lain dormant the land that her family once worked and also one of six Fellows participating in found himself stuck in a cycle school. He had always kept a garden, for years. Caressa’s vision sparked but also use it to help her community. the program. Kinesha Robinson and Caressa Brown 18 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 19
viruses, protozoa and fungi and their forever, and you are never going to slowly killing ourselves? The epidemic collective genetic material present in solve that problem,” Ingham said. “And of chronic diseases correlates well with As Below, So Above: From Healthy Soil to Healthy Body the soil/gastrointestinal tract.” that’s what fixing the biology in the soil the ecological devastation of our soils. These microorganisms essentially will do.” Take the use of the popular A CONVERSATION WITH ELAINE INGHAM serve the same function in both When Ingram started her work, pesticide glyphosate. As Ingham places. They help the plant’s roots nearly all soil research focused on the explained at the Ohio Ecological Food BY MEGAN BACHMAN in the soil, and the gut microflora, mineral content, not the biology, of the and Farm Conference in February optimally absorb nutrients from their soil. But without microorganisms soil is 2021, when glyphosate accumulates I remember the first time I heard food movement, and the whole foods That’s thanks to the pioneering work of environment, Ingham explained in a more like “dirt,” she says. In 1978, she in the soil, the soil can no longer hold the saying, “You are what you eat.” movement expanded that initial Elaine Ingham of the Soil Food Web recent Zoom interview. started her Ph.D. research by asking mineral nutrients for plants. In high I was young enough to be a little realization. I sought to avoid food School, who’s been studying soil life “The microorganisms need to be university professors in agriculture all enough concentrations, plants will unsettled by the idea that I might grown with toxic chemicals, eschew (and its relationship to human life) for in your food so that you always have across the country whether she should actually absorb glyphosate, which become a “chicken” or “popsicle” overly processed food, and choose going on five decades. the correct amount of microorganisms but old enough to understand that fresher foods closer to home. To Ingham, it all comes down to in your body,” she said. “The cells “They all said, ‘You shouldn’t do that because what I put into my body affected my But it wasn’t until I learned about the diversity of the microbiome — in lining your intestines, your colon allow constitution. the connection between healthy soils both our soil and our digestive system. the uptake of the nutrients into the these organisms do nothing in the soil.' That’s As I grew up, my awareness of and human health did I fully appreciate She defines “microbiome” as “the the organics movement, the local the phrase, “You are what you eat.” totality of microorganisms, bacteria, bloodstream, and that is mediated by a how bad our understanding of soil really was.” whole bunch of microorganisms.” Take two apples, Ingram says. look at the role of fungi in soil. means, yes, we are eating glyphosate. One is grown naturally, the other “They all said, ‘You shouldn’t What does that do to our body? sprayed with fungicides to kill apple do that because these organisms do “It’s doing exactly the same thing scab. Though both technically apples, nothing in the soil,’” Ingham recalls. in your microbiome as in the soil, which the sprayed one now lacks the healthy “That’s how bad our understanding of is to kill those beneficial organisms,” microorganisms your body needs to get soil really was.” Ingham said, “And it’s withholding the most out of the apple, since at least Since then, advances in ways to nutrients from your gut microflora — 50% of the beneficial organisms have image microorganisms, such as x‐ray from your digestive system — so you been killed. shadow microscopy, have helped shed can’t obtain the nutrients that you “Where are the good guys going light on their role in the larger soil want.” to come back from if you spray that food web. The realization of just how Healthy soil grows plants that are orchard?” she asks. biodiverse healthy ecosystems are, was unstressed and resistant to disease. But Instead, Ingham says, eat straight a wake-up call. when we eat fragile plants, our human from the garden, gently wash produce “The Bible lists 5,000 species, and health becomes fragile too. — don’t scrub or use harsh soaps — the people at Michigan State University “We’ve got to understand that and be sure to compost to continue the showed that in a one-acre woodlot in these two things are related,” Ingham cycle. Michigan [there were] over one million said. “We need billions and billions of The popularity of probiotics in species,” Ingham said. bacteria — on the outside when we recent years is one way to improve gut But change in the larger have to grow plants and on the inside health, especially since 60 percent of agriculture industry has been slow. In when we’re growing human beings.” the immune system is located there. the meantime, we’re losing species of Now, I know that if I am what I But why not go to the literal root of the bacteria, fungi and protozoa that may eat, I actually am the soil in which my problem? After all, biologically diverse never return, Ingham says. food is grown. And I sure don’t want to soil not only improves plant health and “One suspects that we are getting be dirt. water retention, it also sequesters more close to the no-return point, where the carbon from the atmosphere, Ingham last of the land is desertified,” she said. Megan Bachman is a board member of notes. And fundamentally, if we are Agraria and editor of the Yellow Springs “You can try to fix the symptom killing the life in the soil, aren’t we also News. GRAPHIC COURTESY OF ELAINE INGHAM, SOIL FOOD WEB SCHOOL 20 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 21
what to do, she just needs us to get our BY JIM LINNE boot off of her neck. Now that the farm was in grass- land, I introduced cattle as a way OPT I MAL H E A LTH to build soil organic matter, recycle nutrients, and produce high quality A Physician/Farmer Perspective beef. Healthy soil is a living organism with billions of microbes in a single As a physician, I was trained in the to start focusing our efforts on content of food. Soil is the foundation teaspoon. In order not to harm the detection and treatment of disease. prevention. While the USA boasts of health. Healthy, nutrient dense food soil biology, we have avoided using any During my 35 years in the practice of providing the best health care in comes from healthy biologically alive harmful chemicals such as antibiotics, of gastroenterology, I noted a marked the world, our populace suffers from soil. Our soils have become degraded hormones, pesticides, or herbicides. increase in diet related disease. NASH an epidemic of obesity, diabetes, and through the lack of biological diversity, With short periods of grazing (non-alcoholic steatohepatitis), which other chronic illnesses that are related high levels of chemical inputs, and followed by long periods of rest, the is primarily caused by obesity and primarily to diet and lifestyle¹. To bare fallows. biodiversity of plants in the pasture diabetes, is now the leading cause of address this problem, we must change Our current agriculture is extractive has increased as the latent seed bank cirrhosis in the USA. Eosinophilic our focus from treatment to prevention and unsustainable. Regenerative is awakened. The soil organic matter esophagitis is an inflammatory disease of disease, with good nutrition being agriculture is a way to grow our foods has increased from 1.5% to 4%, cycling Jim Linne with his herd of cattle on White Clover Farm RENEE WILDE of the esophagus that is due to food the cornerstone. We need to emphasize that mimics Nature. It is a system that carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere allergies. It causes painful swallowing whole foods as opposed to the highly produces healthy, nutrient dense food and sequestering it in the soil. This only grass, sunshine, and water—the The presence of birds of prey are an and dysphagia (difficulty swallowing). processed, high calorie, hyperpalatable while continuously building topsoil. has resulted in improved soil structure way Nature intended. indication of a healthy ecosystem with Once rare, it is now the leading cause foods that are often deficient in It helps restore our broken carbon and with better water infiltration and water Testing done at Michigan State a well-functioning food web. of food becoming lodged in the nutrients and minerals.²,³ water cycles. holding capacity. We can now hold University confirms the high mineral, A holistic definition of health esophagus. As a farmer, I have developed As a first-generation farmer, my an additional 50,000 gallons of water vitamin, and omega-3 fatty acid includes the health of the planet as well The costs associated with the a more holistic view of health and goal was to farm regeneratively. The content of our beef.4 as all of its inhabitants. They cannot treatment of these and other diet- nutrition that includes the environ- farm I purchased was in conventional "Soil is the foundation of health. We direct-market our be separated. As we strive to improve related diseases are becoming mental impact of the way we produce crop production of corn and soybeans beef locally, providing our health through better nutrition, unsustainable. I felt that we needed food and its effect on the nutritional with its associated tillage, chemicals, Healthy, nutrient dense food comes a healthy product while we must remember that healthy soil is and bare winter fallows. The 5 tenets from healthy biologically alive soil." improving the land. the foundation for healthy food as well of regenerative agriculture are: 1) keep Nature has responded as ecosystem function. Optimal health the soil covered; 2) minimal soil per acre. Not only does this allow us to the care that we have given to the only occurs when the whole ecosystem disturbance i.e., no tillage; 3) increase to grow more biomass, it also helps land with another gift in the form is healthy. biodiversity; 4) keep living roots in protect the watershed from erosion, of birds. We now have hundreds of the soil year around; 5) incorporate runoff, leaching, flooding and drought. swallows that follow the cattle herd Jim Linne is on the Agraria Board of livestock. The restored groundwater provides providing natural fly control. Red Trustees and also the planning committee for I started out by planting the entire our cattle with clean water year around tailed hawks, American kestrels, the Nourishing Life Conference to be held farm in perennial grasses. I repaired from natural springs. We are able to Northern harriers, and short eared June 18-19, 2021. He is owner of White a large erosion gully by building a dam produce our 100% grass-fed beef using owls patrol the pastures and hayfields. Clover Farm. to create a small farm pond. What Citations: followed demonstrated the richness 1. Wang, Youfa et al. “Will all Americans become overweight or obese? estimating the progression and cost of the US obesity epidemic.” Obesity (Silver and generosity of Nature. This pond Spring, Md.) vol. 16,10 (2008): 2323-30. doi:10.1038/oby.2008.351 is now lined with willows, cattails, and 2. Poti JM, Braga B, Qin B. Ultra-processed Food Intake and Obesity: What Really Matters for Health-Processing or Nutrient Content? Curr Obes Rep. 2017 Dec;6(4):420-431. doi: 10.1007/s13679-017-0285-4. PMID: 29071481; PMCID: PMC5787353. beautiful American Lotus water lilies. 3. Mozaffarian, Dariush et al. “Changes in diet and lifestyle and long-term weight gain in women and men.” The New England journal of medicine vol. It is home to hundreds of fish, insects, 364,25 (2011): 2392-404. doi:10.1056/NEJMoa1014296 amphibians, and reptiles. An explosion 4. Bronkema, Sara & Rowntree, Jason & Jain, Raghav & Schweihofer, Jeannine & Bitler, Chad & Fenton, Jenifer. (2019). A Nutritional Survey of The pond on White Clover Farm was regenerated along with the soil. JIM LINNE of biodiversity. Mother Nature knows Commercially Available Grass-Finished Beef. Meat and Muscle Biology. 3. 116. 10.22175/mmb2018.10.0034. 22 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021 23
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