INDUSTRY STATE OF THE - American Culinary Federation
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STATE OF THE
INDUSTRY
What 2021 holds for the changing culinary landscape
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
If you like to play with fire, you belong with us Membership. Certification. Online Learning Center. Apprenticeship. Events. WeAreChefs.com. ACFchefs.org.
FEATURE STORIES
28 For the Long Run
ACF chef members from across the industry share the pandemic-driven positive changes they’ve
made that have become permanent fixtures — and will ensure their future success.
36 Plight of Packaging
COVID-19 and quarantines have driven an increase in takeout, and that means more to-go packaging.
These chefs are making sure they don’t harm the environment as a result.
DEPARTMENTS
10 Management
Chef Ashten Garrett discusses the need for kitchen culture to become more diverse and inclusive.
16 Main Course
A look at melting cheeses — perfect for cold-weather days and comfort food dishes.
19 On the Side
Potatoes offer a low-cost, versatile option for chefs looking to stretch their budget and creativity.
24 Pastry
These cakes feature seasonal fruit for another layer of flavor, nutrition and finesse.
26 Classical vs. Modern
Cuban-American Chef Carlos Villanueva prepares Boliche Cubano, a classic dish passed to him
from his grandmother; a modern version swaps beef for quail.
44 Health
Culinary medicine has been a growing interest over the past decade, but a global pandemic —
combined with chef initiatives —could push it to the forefront of modern menuing.
IN EACH ISSUE
4 President’s Message
6 On the Line 22 ACF Chef Profile
7 News Bites 42 Chef-to-Chef
14 Chapter Close-Up 50 The Quiz
WEARECHEFS.COM 3
| President’s Message | Un Mensaje Del Presidente |
There’s something about a new year.
A new year gives us the chance to make
resolutions, of course, but also to do some soul
searching and decide what we want to change
and accomplish in the coming year. It’s a way
to start fresh. It’s a time to renew, recharge, and
Editor-in-Chief
Amelia Levin perhaps work to better ourselves a little.
Creative Services Manager I think I speak for most of us when I say
David Ristau
Graphic Designer 2021 couldn’t be a more welcome new year. The pandemic and economic
Armando Mitra
Advertising and Event Sales
woes have strained our mental, emotional and financial resources. But
Eric Gershowitz now there is a light at the end of the tunnel. News about effective vaccines
Jeff Rhodes
Director of Marketing and Communications and improved treatments bring hope. This winter has been a rough one,
Alan Sterling
but we hunker down now so we can emerge safely and be together again.
That said, I cannot be more excited about what we have planned
American Culinary Federation, Inc.
180 Center Place Way • St. Augustine, FL 32095 for this year, including four ACF ChefsForum events: St. Louis and
(800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741 Pittsburgh in March, and Tucson (Arizona) and Nashville (Tennessee) in
ncr@acfchefs.net • ACFSales@mci-group.com
www.acfchefs.org
April. Like many of you, I have missed seeing my friends and colleagues
in the industry. We have put in place rigid COVID-19 safety guidelines
Board of Directors that will help us stay safe when we meet again. As a supplement, we
President
Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA®, AAC®
have a strong digital and virtual platform that offers yet another way to
National Secretary maintain our close connections and access ongoing educational content
Mark Wright, CEC, AAC
National Treasurer
for learning and growth.
James Taylor, CEC, AAC, MBA I’m even more excited for the ACF National Convention this summer
American Academy of Chefs Chair
Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC in Orlando, Florida. The annual convention is a highlight of my year
Vice President Central Region and, I’m sure, for many of you as well. This year’s event will be a little
Steven Jilleba, CMC®, CCE®, AAC
Vice President Northeast Region bittersweet, as my interim presidency will come to an end, but I look
Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE, AAC
forward to passing the gavel to the next president who will lead our
Vice President Southeast Region
Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA, AAC federation toward a bright future.
Vice President Western Region
Robert W. Phillips, CEC, CCA, AAC
Speaking of a bright future, I encourage you to consider using this
Executive Director time to learn and try something new. Visit the ACF Online Learning
Heidi Cramb
Center to check out the popular COVID-19 Training and Certificate to
The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), January/ help you navigate ongoing industry changes and assure customers that
February 2021, Volume 45, Number 1, is owned by the American
Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced 6 times a year your operation has met the highest standards for safety. Also, consider
by ACF, located at 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL
32095. A digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® participating in a competition this year; we’re in the process of building
is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions
are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic;
the 2024 ACF Culinary Team USA and scheduling competitions for next
nonmember subscriptions are $40. Material from the National year (visit acfchefs.org for more information).
Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced
without written permission. All views and opinions expressed Above all, now’s the time to stick together. We’re all in this change as
in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do
not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or an industry, and as ACF members, we can progress — no, blast — into
members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent
to ACF’s national office: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL the future as a united and powerful front.
32095; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741.
The National Culinary Review® is mailed and periodical postage
Happy New Year and see you soon,
is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary
Review®, 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095.
Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC
National President
American Culinary Federation
Contact me at tmacrina@acfchefs.net or
follow me on Twitter @cheftommacrina
and Instagram @cheftommacrina
4 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
El año nuevo siempre trae algo especial.
Un año nuevo nos da la oportunidad de tener nuevos propósitos, por supuesto, pero
también de hacer un examen de conciencia y decidir qué queremos cambiar y lograr
el próximo año. Es una forma de empezar de cero. Es un momento para renovarnos,
recargarnos y quizás trabajar para mejorar un poco.
Creo que hablo por la mayoría de nosotros cuando digo que el 2021 no podría
ser un año más esperado. La pandemia y las turbulencias económicas han agotado
nuestros recursos mentales, emocionales y financieros. Pero ahora hay una luz al
final del túnel. Las noticias sobre vacunas eficaces y tratamientos mejorados traen
esperanza. Este invierno ha sido difícil, pero ahora nos refugiamos para poder resurgir
y estar juntos de nuevo.
Habiendo dicho esto, no puedo estar más emocionado con los eventos que
organizamos este año, incluidos cuatro foros de chefs de la ACF: St. Louis y
Pittsburgh en marzo, y Tucson (Arizona) y Nashville (Tennessee) en abril. Como
muchos de ustedes, he echado de menos a mis amigos y colegas de la industria.
Hemos implementado pautas de seguridad rígidas para combatir el COVID-19 que
nos ayudarán a mantenernos seguros cuando nos encontremos en persona. Como
complemento, contamos con una sólida plataforma digital y virtual que ofrece otra
forma de mantener nuestras conexiones cercanas y acceder a contenidos educativos
continuos para el aprendizaje y el crecimiento.
Y estoy aún más emocionado por la Convención Nacional de la ACF este verano en
Orlando, Florida. La convención anual siempre es lo más destacado del año para mí, y
estoy seguro que es igual para muchos de ustedes. El evento de este año será un poco
agridulce, ya que mi presidencia interina llegará a su fin, pero espero pasar la posta al
próximo presidente que guiará a nuestra federación hacia un futuro brillante.
Hablando de un futuro brillante, los invito a que piensen en aprovechar este tiempo
para aprender y probar algo nuevo. Visiten el Centro de aprendizaje en línea de la ACF
para consultar la popular Capacitación y certificación de COVID-19, que los ayudará
a transitar los cambios continuos de la industria y garantizar los más altos estándares
de seguridad para sus clientes. También les pido que consideren participar de una
competencia este año; Estamos en el proceso de desarrollar el Equipo Culinario de la
ACF 2024 en Estados Unidos y programar competencias para el próximo año (ingresen
en acfchefs.org para acceder a más información).
Y por sobre todas las cosas, este es el momento para mantenernos unidos. Todos
estamos atravesando este cambio como industria, y como miembros de la ACF,
podemos transitar este avance, ¡o mejor dicho, esta explosión! hacia el futuro como un
frente unido y poderoso.
Les deseo un feliz Año Nuevo y nos vemos pronto,
Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC
Presidente Nacional
American Culinary Federation
WEARECHEFS.COM 5
| On the Line |
What’s Cooking on WeAreChefs.com
Visit WeAreChefs.com, the official content hub for the American
Culinary Federation, to read online exclusive articles, including industry
trends, interviews, COVID-19 coverage, recipes and more.
Datassential’s 2021 Food Trends Forecast
This trendspotting, third-party research firm offers ACF members an
exclusive look at some of the types of foods and cuisines that will likely
grow in popularity this year and beyond.
ACF’s Partnership with Jamaica Tourism
Read about the ACF’s close partnership with the Jamaica Centre of
Tourism Innovation’s Tourism Enhancement Fund, which raises funds
to educate the world and support local chefs in their careers, including
providing funding for ACF membership and certification testing.
Dissecting the Dish
In this new online series, Chef Christian Darcoli, director of culinary for
Servino Ristorante in Tiburon, California, discusses the ins and outs of his
popular wood-oven-roasted branzino with arugula and tomatoes, perfect
for lighter cooking in the New Year.
Maximizing Outdoor Dining
More ideas for making your outdoor patio and dining areas cozy and
comfortable during the winter while indoor dining restrictions continue.
The Culinary Insider, the ACF’s bi-weekly newsletter, offers
timely information about events, certification, member discounts,
the newest blog posts, competitions, contests and much more.
Sign up at acfchefs.org/tci.
Follow the ACF on
your favorite social
media platforms:
@acfchefs Sure, digital is environmentally friendly...
but paper smells better.
@acfchefs
Twitter question of A digital subscription to NCR is included with ACF membership,
but members can now get a one-year print subscription for just
@acf_chefs the month: $25! Visit acfchefs.org/ncr to get yours today.
What do you predict will make the
@acfchefs list of top food trends in 2021?
American Tweet us your answer using the
Culinary hashtag #ACFasks and we’ll retweet
Federation our favorites.
6 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
| News Bites |
NEWS BITES
ACF FlexPay Continues
for Members
Get Excited for the 2021 ACF FlexPay was created after members said they wanted a better
ACF ChefsForum Event Series and more practical way to renew their membership. The “one-
lump-sum renewal” was not possible for many affected by the
With stringent COVID-19 safety measures in place and pandemic. FlexPay allows Members to renew by paying just one
vaccines on the way, we’re gearing up for an exciting lineup of month of dues when they commit to paying the remainder over 11
events in 2021. We’ve renamed our ChefConnect events “ACF equal monthly payments. Depending on one’s Membership level
ChefsForum” to reflect the combination of in-person and online and local dues rate, Members can renew for as little as $9 monthly
components that will bring us together no matter what, as well as for Students and $19 monthly for Professional Culinarians.
the dynamic platform we are creating to engage more members Members can sign up for FlexPay when they call the Membership
while delivering opportunities for ongoing learning. We hope Team at (800) 624-9458 (ext. 504) and ask to participate. They
the ACF ChefsForum events, held in Pittsburgh and St. Louis can also enroll by emailing membership@acfchefs.net.
in March and Nashville (Tennessee) and Tucson (Arizona) in
April, followed by the highly anticipated ACF 2021 ChefsForum
National Convention in Orlando, Florida, in July, will “Ignite Your 90-Day Introductory Offer
Passion” and remind you why you chose this career in the first
place. Get more details at acfchefs.org/ACF/Events.
for First-time ACF Members
ACF continues to offer a 90-day complimentary membership for
ACF New Mentor first-time members looking to explore all that the Federation has
to offer, including opportunities for networking, competitions,
Match Program certification, continuing education, original content and more.
ACF launched a new mentor program, Mentor Match, in December.
Members can access the program by visiting Chef’s Table, ACF’s
online member community. While the early stages of the debut
focused on enrolling mentor candidates, in January, those looking for
support in their culinary career will be invited to register as mentee
candidates. Mentor and mentee candidates will be able to search
the directory to find the right matches for them. Consider helping
others make their way in the profession by signing up to be a mentor.
For questions, email or call Joe Syrowik, ACF membership director,
jsyrowik@acfchefs.net and (904) 484-0210.
WEARECHEFS.COM 7
| News Bites |
ACF Partners with ACF Culinary Team USA
StarChapter This month, the ACF will be conducting preliminary interviews
for the selection of its Culinary Team USA, which will participate
ACF has collaborated with StarChapter to provide access to a
in various international competitions, including the 2024
variety of resources intended to help chapter leaders save time,
Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung (IKA) Culinary Olympics
increase member participation and grow membership. These tools
in Stuttgart, Germany. Chef J. Kevin Storm, CEC, CCA, AAC,
include turnkey chapter websites, platforms for event registration
executive chef at Bellerive Country Club St. Louis, will serve as
and e-commerce, email communication/management tips,
manager, and Chef Randy Torres, CEC, AAC, executive director
membership and board management resources, and more. ACF
of culinary for Southwestern Oregon Community College, was
Chicago, ACF Columbus (Ohio) and ACF St. Louis are long-
named assistant manager. Additional team support members will
term users of the platform, and others are considering the switch.
be announced soon. Chef Storm served as assistant manager for
StarChapter is offering a 20% discount on its one-time set-up fee
the 2020 ACF Culinary Team USA, which took home several top
for chapters with more than 50 members. To learn more, visit
awards in Germany last February. He also was a team member in
starchapter.com.
2012 and a coach for the 2008 ACF Youth Team. Chef Torres was
a member of the 2008 Regional Team USA and coached the 2012
Culinary Youth Team USA. To learn more about ACF Culinary
Team USA, visit www.acfchefs.org/Team.
ACF Culinarian’s Code
As we enter 2021, why not refresh your memory of the
Culinarian’s Code?
Want Your Own Community “As a proud member of the American Culinary Federation,
in Chef’s Table? I pledge to share my professional knowledge and skill with
all culinarians. I will place honor, fairness, cooperation
Late last year, eight ACF Chapters formed chapter-specific and consideration first when dealing with my colleagues.
communities through the ACF’s new, online forum, Chef ’s I will keep all comments professional and respectful when
Table. These communities give ACF Chapters another way dealing with my colleagues. I will protect all members from
to build connectivity and engagement among local members, the use of unfair means, unnecessary risks and unethical
especially if in-person meetings are limited. Chapters can use behavior when used against them for another’s personal
these communities to announce meetings, foster discussion on gain. I will support the success, growth, and future of my
topics of local interest, and gain input to help guide the future colleagues and this great federation.”
direction of their chapters. Email or call Joe Syrowik, ACF
membership director, jsyrowik@acfchefs.net, or call
(904) 484-0210 to sign up your chapter.
8 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
Healthy Eating Grant
Recipients
American Culinary Federation Education Foundation (ACFEF),
through the Chef & Child initiative, offers ACF chefs and
chapters grant funding to support nutrition outreach activities in
their communities. The following ACF chefs received grants to
organize programs in 2020:
• Annette Besnilian, ACF Chefs de Cuisine Association of
Letters to the Editor: California
Why I’m an ACF Member • Leslie Moyer, ACF Treasure Coast Chapter
• Jamie Bostian, CEC, ACF Chefs of Charlotte Chapter
ACF Charlotte’s virtual meetup in November included three ACF
testimonials on why it’s vital to remain an ACF Member today, • Maria Anderson, ACF Chicago Chapter
especially during this challenging time. • Vince Blancato, ACF Tampa Bay Culinary Association
“[ACF Certification] enhances your reputation. If you become • Angela Wilson, CEPC, CCE, ACF New Orleans Chapter
a certified chef, I feel strongly that you have proved yourself in
• Michael Garahan, CEC, FMP, Greater Kansas City Chef ’s
terms of knowledge and skills for a position before you even have
Association
to show up for a job interview. Certification also jumpstarts your
career from the student level on up, and it offers an opportunity to • Benjamin Whitmore, CEC, ACF Red River Valley Chef ’s
better yourself throughout your entire career. If you’re a certified Association
chef, it proves that you embrace continuing education. It also • Joseph Leonardi, CMC, AAC, ACF Rhode Island Chapter
instills self-confidence, and shows that you’re ready to take on the
world and improve your skills as you go on.” – Chef Sandra Dawn
Birmingham, treasurer, ACF Chefs of Charlotte Chapter
“My legacy as a chef is not what I personally accomplish, but the
accomplishments of the people I train. ACF has made me realize
that. One of my mentors, Chef Kevin Ives, told me never forget
where you come from and never forget where you’re going, but
never forget who helped you get there.”—Chef Jeffrey Quasha,
CEC, CCA, ACE, president, ACF Chefs of the Low Country
“Finding [good] help is one of the hardest things to do, even
right now with so many unemployed, so when you have a fellow
ACF chef and colleague you trust and they send you people, it
takes a lot of guesswork out of the whole equation.” – Chef Jamie
Bostian, CEC, vice president, ACF Chefs of Charlotte
“I represent the voice of diversity; I’m a chef-educator, and I feel
like [I need to] stand up and be a voice for some of the students
in my classroom and in my kitchen, and help advocate for our
brown, black, non-binary, and gender-non-conforming brothers
and sisters. For me, it’s really important that I keep showing up
to the ACF to represent diversity, equity and inclusion, and I’ve
really appreciated being a part of first the women’s task force many
years ago, and now, the diversity and inclusion task force.”
— Chef Dina Altieri, CEC, CCE, CHE, president, ACF Chef 's Students learned the benefits of cooking healthfully through the ACFEF Chef &
Association of Arizona Child Initiative
WEARECHEFS.COM 9
| Management |
BUILDING AN
INCLUSIVE
CULTURE
One ACF Chef offers tips on how to grow
and diversify kitchens for the future
In addition to a global pandemic, last Q: From your perspective, what is the current state of diversity
year brought some of the most active civil in culinary culture and kitchen operations?
unrest this country has seen in more than
A: As a young chef, it can be a daunting enough task to remain
50 years. It led to some positive changes, motivated and inspired in environments that are continually
though: Many business leaders have changing every day. But adversity comes in many different
done more than just vow to put a greater forms, and for me, the most difficult adversary is the lack of
emphasis on diversity; they are taking diversity in the industry.
real, calculated steps to build a more Imagine a room full of people, and the majority of them do
inclusive culture. not look like you, walk like you or speak like you. This is the case
The culinary industry — here and for most minority chefs and hospitality workers. Most kitchens
around the world — has certainly that I have worked or spent time in have been diverse — but
had its struggles when it comes to only to a certain extent. We navigate these spaces as “foreigners”
diversity and inclusion, but that has with the hopes of being accepted. This can be intimidating,
been improving in recent years, and will and if we are working in establishments that aren’t open to
continue to improve as more chefs in diversity and inclusion, or do not understand or recognize the
leadership roles make equity a priority significance of accepting it, it can diminish the quality of our
in their recruitment, training and day- work and performance.
to-day operations. We caught up with I would like to say most 21st-century chefs and restaurant
Chef Ashten Garrett — president of owners have grasped how workplace diversity brings a
the ACF Young Chefs Club and senior new perspective, energy, and quality of performance to an
culinary arts manager for Marriott establishment. But unfortunately, this is not always the case.
International, who presented on The acceptance of diversity and inclusivity sometimes veers
diversity in the kitchen during a webinar in different directions depending on the current social and
last fall — for his thoughts on the topic. economic climate. But if we truly wish to change the narrative
This interview has been edited for clarity of this beloved and important industry, it will take more than a
and condensed. few posts on Facebook or a 15-minute Zoom call. It will require
10 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021immediate and consistent pressure to elucidate and eradicate bias in culinary? Why? Or if not, is there
the difficulties minorities face. anything in traditional culinary culture
Q: What progress has the industry made over the past few that impedes inclusion?
decades to be more inclusive and accepting of different A: Any great chef is a mere reflection
backgrounds and ideas? of his/her team, as they alone cannot
A: I think that the advent of social media has played an integral be successful. That said, I do not think
role in the push to accept chefs who are minorities and/or that the brigade system is the sole issue
women. When new voices are amplified, it sparks a call to action when it comes to diversity. The brigade
to accept diversification and inclusivity. system’s organization and management is
necessary and important in any kitchen.
Now, some can argue that little to no progress has been
When service is at its busiest peak, it is
made to advance inclusivity in the industry. There are still
important to have one or two designated
major hindrances to the progress of minorities, women, and
leaders conducting the orchestra by
ambitious young chefs. Women and women of color are still
directing and delegating, because too
underrepresented and disenfranchised; young chefs are opting
many voices and opinions (or “too many
to pursue more entrepreneurial careers due to longstanding
coaches and not enough players”) can
industry pressures and lack of acceptance; and minority voices
create conflict and slow service.
are still being drowned out by implicit bias and systemic racism.
All of these have a direct impact on the longevity and
sustainability of the culinary and hospitality industry. As the
industry remains in limbo, one thing is certain: In order to
evolve, we all must be willing to change, as no problem can be
solved until we first recognize that there is one.
Q: What areas of the culinary industry in particular are in most
need of diversifying and opening up to different backgrounds,
ideas, and cultures? Why?
A: I think the most pivotal areas are restaurant ownership/
proprietorship, food writing, investing/funding, and the
executive chef role. I think anyone can relate when I say it is
more possible to summon the motivation to do something
when someone who looks like you has done it or is doing it.
Ownership is especially important because when you own,
you have the control. Support via funding, sponsorships and Instead, the issue lies with the
endorsements for those that wish to become owners will be a character and personality of the one who
game changer for the industry. is building the culture. An establishment’s
The same can be said about writers and bloggers: culture needs leadership, consistency,
Those behind the keyboard and holding the pen control integrity, and diversity. Ask: Does this
the narrative. When writers and bloggers do not highlight particular brigade system help create a safe,
minority establishments or create opportunities for inviting, professional and nurturing work
minority voices in the industry to be heard, it creates a cycle environment that is conducive to growth?
of alienation, because minorities then feel they have no Does the team feel they can freely express
voice. Consequently, that also can lead industry leaders to themselves via questions and interactions?
abandon diversity efforts, causing minorities to venture out I think that most people focus on the effect
on their own. Think of the phrase, “If you do not have a seat and not necessarily the cause.
at the table, go and create your own.” Many minority chefs, Q: What is your advice to the industry
unfortunately, have had to adopt this approach. to help identify and remove bias and be
Q: Is the traditional brigade system of a kitchen part of the more inclusive to all backgrounds and
problem when it comes to accepting diversity and reinforcing cultures in culinary operations?
WEARECHEFS.COM 11| Management |
A: My advice would be to genuinely listen,
learn and be empathetic. We all have a story
to tell, and cooking is an expressive craft
that helps us all do that. Food knows no
gender, age, race, ethnicity, or disability;
it exists to be enjoyed. As chefs, we do not
discount a particular cuisine or culture
when we cook just because it is different or
not indigenous to our own; rather, we take
the courageous leap to learn more about
it and explore its flavors and ingredients.
Therefore, we should not discount each
other, but rather accept our differences. We
all have a voice and the right to explain why
cooking is so important to us.
Q: In your own experience of moving up
in the industry from where you started
to where you are today, do you have a
story that illustrates the importance
of an inclusive culinary environment, and the advantages of companies re-branding from problematic
an operation that is welcoming and open-minded to diverse logos or names.
cultures and backgrounds? There is power in our voices, in
A: I have been extremely blessed to have worked in many kitchens the white coat, and in diversity. My
around the world in operations that welcome and celebrate diversity. personal call to action would be not for
As an example, I studied abroad in Florence, Italy. I was timid a bill to be passed, or for the CEO of
and nervous about my place in an international kitchen working a major company to issue a newsletter
alongside experienced chefs, and I did not speak the language. or campaign, or for companies around
Prior to this experience, I had spoken with colleagues who the world to immediately change their
had worked abroad and attributed their many personal and business models. My call to action is
professional problems due to race and gender barriers and that we all recognize and accept there
biases. Hearing this information amplified my uncertainty is a universal issue: the inequity of
about the decision to work internationally, but I decided to equal access to opportunity in the
stay with it. And to my amazement, the respect and acceptance workforce caused by implicit bias, lack
I received from the very beginning was overwhelming, and of diversity and inclusivity, and minority
subsequently made me want to perform at an even higher indifference. It will take a concerted
level. Once that barrier was broken and I felt as if I belonged, it effort and a lot of investment to lead us to
intensified my passion and allowed me to focus on and enjoy the a better way of operating.
craft of cooking. If we take the time now to plant and
nurture the seeds of reorientation and
Q: What would you say as a call to action for our industry?
change, those that come after us can
A: I am a firm believer we all want what is best for our industry, harvest the fruit. Much like our ancestors
and that is for it to thrive, not just survive. Collectively, it will did when pioneering the way for us, we
mean holding those in power accountable to drive change. There must leave our industry better than we
is a great quote along the lines of, “Those that have the ability found it. To cite an African proverb, “For
also have the responsibility.” Change is internal but expressed if we wish to go fast, we will go alone, but
outwardly. It demands self-exploration and genuine compassion. if we wish to go far, we must go together.”
The current state of our industry is changing every day to deal To learn more about Chef Ashton, visit
with new demands and new clientele, as seen in the plethora of chefashten.com.
12 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021| Chapter Close-Up |
CHAPTER CLOSE-UP:
ACF OF KALAMAZOO/BATTLE CREEK
Today, the ACF of Kalamazoo/Battle Creek (Michigan) chapter is 30 members strong.
Just four years ago, that number was seven // By Amelia Levin
Chef Eric Gillish inherited quite the challenge when he came Fundraising Success
on board as president: reviving the leadership and growing This past November, the chapter hosted a sold-out, socially
membership. He credits the camaraderie and collaboration distanced chef ’s tasting event to raise funds for scholarships.
with other Michigan ACF chapters for helping him expand the The “Seven Courses of Gold” dinner was modeled after a
member base more than fourfold. previous chapter event that “originally connected me with
“We have an open-door policy with all Michigan chapters, the ACF, way before I ever considered being a member,” Chef
welcoming anyone from any other chapter to attend not only Gillish says. “It was considered a big honor to be asked to
our meetings, but our events as well,” says Gillish, corporate participate in this dinner, which celebrated seven courses from
chef for the Millennium Restaurant Group, which operates nine seven local chefs with wine pairings, followed by the chapter’s
restaurants (11, pre-COVID-19) as well as a robust catering annual awards. Unfortunately, about eight to 10 years ago, the
program. “We frequently share chapter calendars, schedules, event fizzled out [due to low attendance].”
event announcements and so on. Last year, Chef Gillish brought
That has been a huge help for our up the idea of resurrecting the
chapter to pull ideas that others are fundraising dinner, but without the
doing, and vice versa.” awards, as the chapter already had an
The first thing Chef Gillish did established annual awards dinner in
as president was create a schedule partnership with a new local culinary
for monthly chapter meetings school. “We kept the same concept
and board meetings to introduce of seven chef courses, encouraged
some consistency, as well as chefs to partner with a local farmer
add educational components to or vendor for their course [to drive
meetings for members, to give them product donations], offered cocktail/
something of value to take away. spirits pairings using local distillers,
He also reached out to his and had two surprise student courses
vendor-partners to collaborate on by local area tech center students,” he
fun cooking and learning events, says. The dinner was a hit, helping the
including homemade vinegar- chapter to raise $3,500, with most of
making classes, charcuterie the ingredients donated. This, in turn,
tastings, mushroom foraging allowed the chapter to offer its largest
lessons, microbeer and artisanal scholarship yet at $1,500, plus two
cheese pairings, and more. All other $1,000 scholarships.
chefs, ACF members and non- “This year, even with COVID-19
members alike, were (and will Chef Eric Gillish, president of ACF Kalamzoo/Battle Creek and state and local restrictions,
be, when events resume in the future) encouraged to attend we were able to hold the dinner with restricted capacity at
to boost membership. Many events were also open to the 600 Kitchen and Bar, an amazing farm-to-table restaurant in
public for a cost to foster idea-sharing, with discounts offered Kalamazoo,” Chef Gillish says.
to chapter members as an incentive to attend. Members also The chapter also hosted another fundraising dinner-to-
receive access to private events. go, supported by ingredient/product donations and time
14 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021Left: Chef Eric Gillish, president of ACF Kalamazoo/Battle Creek, addresses his team before a recent fundraising
dinner. Right: Chef Gillish at the pass at 600 Kitchen and Bar in Kalamazoo, Michigan, during the dinner.
volunteered by chefs and students, to “Aside from that, we have participated “We have come a long way in four
raise money for a local chef who tragically in local farmers market demos, and years,” he says. “All of this sounds like
had lost his son. “We raised between whenever possible, we try to support a lot, but sometimes it doesn't feel
$4,000 and $5,000 for the family,” Chef and work with the local ACF-accredited like enough. We are doing our best to
Gillish says. “Even though this chef is not culinary school,” he says. “This year, we keep our head above water, support
an ACF chef, he’s part of our community. created a student chair to liaise between those in need, and, unfortunately,
By showing our support this way, we our chapter and their student food groups. mourn the closing of some of our local
show that the ACF is not just a prestigious When COVID-19 hit, I did my best to stay establishments due to the pandemic.
organization; it’s an organization for all connected with other chapters by sharing That’s why it’s very important that we
chefs and their communities.” information and simply reaching out to not only stick together, but actually
see how everyone was doing.” help and support each other to keep our
A Bright Future To boost chapter membership, Chef community strong.”
The work is not over. This summer, Gillish even looked up memberships
the chapter plans to host a members- that had lapsed in the last two years and
only catered family picnic, and Chef invited those chefs to attend meetings
Gillish hopes to bring back the annual and participate with the chapter once
awards dinner. He also aims to continue again, and is exploring ways to subsidize
fundraising to help other chefs in need. membership, if need be.
"WE HAVE AN OPEN-DOOR POLICY WITH ALL MICHIGAN
CHAPTERS, WELCOMING ANYONE FROM ANY OTHER
CHAPTER TO ATTEND NOT ONLY OUR MEETINGS, BUT
OUR EVENTS AS WELL." -CHEF ERIC GILLISH
WEARECHEFS.COM 15| Main Course |
MELT THE DAY AWAY
The times we’re living through demand comfort food
— the cheesier, the better
By Liz Barrett Foster
We’ve always used cheesy foods to make ourselves feel better,
whether it’s a gooey grilled cheese paired with chicken noodle
soup to help a cold go away faster, or a big cheese pizza after
a hard work week. Now we’re all living through a global
pandemic. As everyone looks for small and simple ways to boost
their moods (even if just temporarily), consumers are craving
— and seeking out — familiar foods that drum up feelings
of warmth and comfort. Here, we explore a few new ways to
integrate the comforting vibe of melted cheese into your menu.
MAKING CHEESE MELT
It’s true that most cheeses will melt, if they get warm enough.
However, there’s a scientific reason why some cheeses melt easily
while others hold their structure long after hitting the heat.
16 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021The act of melting cheese is a delicate If you’re in a pinch and need to melt
balance between moisture, age and cheese fast without making a fondue
acid content, according to Chef Chris base or using the traditional two-to-
Bugher, CEC (opposite), chef-instructor three-minutes-under-
of culinary arts at Asheville-Buncombe
Technical Community College in
the-broiler method, Chef
Dave Woolley (above), "YOUNG CHEESE
Asheville, North Carolina. “A really,
really fresh cheese can melt decently,
“director of deliciousness”
for Atlanta-based Buffalo IS PROBABLY THE
but it can also curdle,” he says. “A young
cheese is probably the best for melting.
Wild Wings, says that he
regularly uses a Searzall,
BEST CHEESE
An aged cheese can melt, but it can be
tough, because the protein structure is so
a blowtorch attachment
that diffuses the flame and
FOR MELTING.
tight due to moisture loss.”
Another factor in how well a cheese
helps cheese melt quickly AN AGED CHEESE
CAN MELT, BUT IT
and efficiently.
melts has to do with acidulation,
according to Chef Bugher, which occurs NEWLY TRENDY
when an acid element is added to a cheese.
“Animal rennet melts really well, but if
CHEESES CAN BE TOUGH"
Cheddar and
you add acid to cheese, it interferes with - CHEF CHRIS BUGHER
the denaturing process of the proteins,” he mozzarella have been the
says. “So, for example, a cheese like feta, go-to melting cheeses for decades, but
which is brined, won’t melt very well.” with so many cheeses to choose from
Whichever cheese you choose to now, chefs are getting more adventurous
melt, Chef Bugher suggests opting for in their offerings.
a low-and-slow method over cooking Chef Bugher says he’s seeing a
cheese too quickly, which can extract the resurgence of Swiss raclette (which
butterfat too soon. “Take a little bit of means “to scrape” in French), a
cornstarch and mix that with white wine traditional Alpine cheese that is usually
as a base before you even start [melting],” served over pickled vegetables and
he says. “It’s a version of the slurry that potatoes. Just before the pandemic hit
creates a traditional Swiss fondue.” last year, social media feeds were flooded
WEARECHEFS.COM 17| Main Course |
Melting Cheeses at a Glance
As cheese offerings expand at mass-market
grocers and local cheese shops alike, consumers
are faced with dozens of new cheese decisions.
Author and cheese expert Laura Werlin (left)
believes chefs and restaurant owners have the
ability to close that loop, demystifying cheese
the same way they demystify wine. “When
a chef uses any ingredient, it’s basically an
endorsement of that ingredient,” she says. “If
I’m sitting in a New Orleans restaurant enjoying
a dish that incorporates a delicious local cheese,
I may go to that cheese shop the next day and
ask for it.” Here’s a look at some of her favorite
smaller-batch cheeses:
Le Crémeux from Kaltbach: a washed-rind,
cave-aged cow’s-milk cheese from Switzerland
with a firm yet creamy mouthfeel
with videos showing wheels of raclette on heat lamps being Alpha Tolman from Jasper Hill Farm: dense and
great for melting, this cheese tastes nutty and
scraped onto the plates of awestruck customers. fruity when young and develops meaty flavors
Anne Hoyt, cheesemaker and co-owner of Leelanau Cheese, as it matures
in Suttons Bay, Michigan, makes Swiss raclette, and points out Promontory Cheddar from Beehive Cheese
that French and Swiss raclettes are two very different cheeses. Company: sweet and creamy cow’s-milk
cheddar cheese
The French raclette, which is what most retailers in the U.S. sell,
Flagship from Beecher’s Handmade Cheese: a
is used almost exclusively for melting, due to its softness and semi-hard cow’s-milk cheese that is aged for 15
pungency, according to Hoyt. The Swiss raclette is sweeter and months to develop its nutty flavor
more versatile, able to be melted or sliced for a variety of menu Wagon Wheel from Cowgirl Creamery: aged a
minimum of 75 days, this organic, single-source
applications. “I like to say that Swiss raclette has the consistency cheese tastes of salted brown butter, heavy cream,
of Gouda and the nuttiness of Gruyere,” she says. roasted leeks and roasted garlic when melted
Blue cheeses, such as Roquefort, are becoming popular to Reading from Spring Brook Farm: raclette-
style cheese made from raw Jersey cow milk
melt over eggs, steak or potatoes. “I like to crumble Roquefort
and aged three months
cheese over skillet-fried potatoes and onions and serve that
Thomasville Tomme from Sweet Grass Dairy:
alongside a steak,” Chef Woolley says. “The Roquefort starts to cow’s-milk French farmhouse table cheese with
melt, but not all the way, and it tastes great over the potatoes.” an earthy flavor and creamy texture
Sometimes, cheese blends are the way to go. Chef Woolley Burrata from Di Stefano Cheese: a mozzarella
pouch filled with fresh, creamy Stracciatella cheese
says he’ll create a traditional mac and cheese with Monterey Jack,
Snowmass Raclette from Haystack Mountain
mozzarella and cheddar, and then grate nontraditional cheeses, Cheese: made with pasteurized Colorado cow’s
such as raclette, on top to create different layers of flavor. milk, this raclette-style cheese is designed for
melting and topping meats or veggies, or to be
Liz Barrett Foster is a Mississippi-based writer who enjoys fishing the star of a cheese board
and growing vegetables with her Mississippi-native husband.
18 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021| On the Side |
HOT POTATO!
How to make the most out of these
versatile and tasty tubers in this cost-
conscious time // By Liz Barrett Foster
Versatile, affordable and long-lasting, crowd-pleasing potatoes
are everything you could ask for in an ingredient. Whether
you’re creating savory garlic mashed potatoes, gnocchi, latkes or
Asian curry, potatoes work in almost any cuisine, and chefs who
may have used rice or other grains as a base in the past now are
taking a closer look at them.
Versatile and Profitable
Very few ingredients rank as highly as the humble potato in
the categories of affordability, versatility and profitability. “The
long shelf life of potatoes also helps reduce waste — especially
useful with the cyclical, up-and-down nature of business right
now,” says Alan Kahn, vice president of foodservice for the
Idaho Potato Commission.
WEARECHEFS.COM 19| On the Side |
“WE’RE SENDING THE
MESSAGE THAT A
VARIETY OF POTATO
DISHES AND SIDES
CAN BE PROFITABLE,
INNOVATIVE AND
PORTABLE.”
-Alan Kahn, vice president
of foodservice, Idaho Potato
Commission
With the continuing popularity of breakfast,
brunch and eating local — even in the midst of a
pandemic — chefs are becoming more conscious
of ways to fill the plate with flavor and color while
decreasing cost and allowing for cross-utilization
of product, according to Chef Jeffrey Quasha, CEC,
CCA, ACE, corporate executive R&D chef for Sandy
Springs, Georgia-based Morrison Healthcare.
Chef Quasha says by simply adding a few starchy
potatoes to their kitchens, chefs have access to crispy
garnishes, hashes for breakfast, a seasonal soup
option and potato appetizers. The potato is a perfect
vehicle for chefs to use to create a masterpiece, he
adds. “From goat-cheese-and-chive potato cakes
stuffed with smoked salmon, to smoked sweet
potatoes and kale drizzled with Shropshire blue
cheese, charred balsamic onions and fresh herbs,
potatoes are cheese’s best friend,” he says. Whether
the dish is four-cheese scalloped potatoes or a classic
Above: potato and poblano quesadilla. Opposite: potato puff pizza (both
courtesy of the Idaho Potato Commission).
baked potato topped with melty cheddar, potatoes
and cheese have been natural partners for ages. He
adds that one of his favorite potato dishes is mashed
potatoes with creamy brie folded in, garnished with
crème fraiche and scallions.
Because the past year has resulted in a restaurant
takeout and delivery boom, “We’re sending the
message that a variety of potato dishes and sides can
be profitable, innovative and portable,” Kahn says.
20 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021Potato Mashups
Global fusion cuisine has helped stir up a potato revival
over the past few years, according to Chef Quasha. Potatoes,
after all, are an inexpensive way to introduce new or unique
flavor profiles to consumers. In addition to traditional potato
applications, Chef Quasha says he’s noticed potatoes used in a
growing number of international menu applications in places
such as food halls and food trucks.
Some examples he points to include poutine combined with
bulgogi short ribs and sautéed kimchi, and ethnic potato dishes
like potato knishes, Czech dumplings, breakfast hash, and
pierogis that feature global flavor profiles and elevated fillers.
“My new obsessions are elote fries, Old Bay-dusted handcrafted
potato chips, and pickle-brined French fries,” he says. “Most
recently, my favorite applications have been classic Indian
curries, Japanese curries, and dal, made using purple, golden
and Red Bliss potatoes.”
Whether you’re creating a comforting cheese-layered
gratin, a potato-topped pizza Genovese, seasoned potato
wedges, or a simple, crisp-skinned baked russet, keeping a bag
of potatoes nearby is essential for many quick, inexpensive,
impressive and takeout-ready dishes. For recipes, visit
WeAreChefs.com.
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Verified.
As the premier certifying body for cooks and chefs in
America, The American Culinary Federation remains
committed to providing you with the tools to achieve
your professional goals. We are pleased to announce
the launch of a new way to communicate the ACF
credentials you have earned in the ever-expanding
online marketplace — at no cost to you!
WEARECHEFS.COM 21| ACF Chef Profile |
CHEF ANA
LEBRÓN, CEC
Chef-Owner, Linea Gourmet Catering Services
CEO and President, Correre, Srl
By Amelia Levin
Chef Ana Lebrón turned heads when she Sadly, her husband passed away that time,
and her team took home a gold medal when her daughter was just three years
at last year’s IKA Culinary Olympics in old, which meant she had to navigate
Stuttgart, Germany. raising a child as a single mother while
“This win is not from Ana Lebrón,” running her own business.
she told the media at the time. “It belongs to the country that In typical Chef Lebrón fashion, that
saw me born and allowed me to channel my interest in the challenge didn’t slow her down. She went
highest-level professional cuisine. It belongs to all Dominicans on to build a substantial client base over
who believe in my talent. It also belongs to my teachers in the the last 12 years, including high-profile
restaurants of the world.” companies like Microsoft and World
As the first chef from the Dominican Republic to achieve such Bank. She has also served as a consulting
victory, the journey to gold was a tough one, but Chef Lebrón — who chef for foodservice brands, including
is also the founder and current president of ACF Chapter República a rice company, and has worked with
Dominicana — has never shied away from a challenge. And over the the Dominican Republic Ministry of
course of her life and career, she has had to overcome a few. Tourism. In addition, Chef Lebrón has
written and spoken extensively about
THE MAKING OF A FIERCE COMPETITOR gastronomy and the culinary arts.
Though Chef Lebrón has clocked more than 25 years in
the culinary profession, her love of cooking goes back even GETTING TO GOLD
further — to when she was a child, making pasta in her Italian Over the course of her career, Chef
grandmother’s kitchen. Lebrón traveled regularly to ACF events
“Every time my grandma was making gnocchi, I liked to be in the U.S., where she met board members
with her — it was like playing with clay,” she recalls. “Throughout and other active chefs who would help her
the years, as I grew up, whenever there was a party [or] during the in her career.
holidays, I was always in the kitchen. But I knew if I wanted to work “I wasn’t shy — I told the current ACF
in this field professionally, I would have to learn it by the book.” president I was interested in starting an
Chef Lebrón went on to receive her hospitality bachelor’s ACF chapter in the Dominican Republic
degree in 1989 from Pontificia Universidad Católica Madre to increase our knowledge and skills here,
y Maestra, a Dominican Republic-based Cornell University and promised to commit myself to that,”
affiliate program. She then interned and worked in the kitchens Lebrón says. “I did everything the ACF
of five-star hotels (including for chains such as Sheraton and asked me to do, and didn’t sleep on it — I
Sofitel) in Brussels, Germany, and Milan. moved quickly.” The chapter, founded in
It was in Italy where she met her husband, and together they 2015, now has 15 members.
moved back to the Dominican Republic. She officially opened In 2012, competing became her
her catering and private chef business, Linea Gourmet, in 2002. bread and butter. She recruited and
22 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021trained a group of young
chefs in the Dominican
Republic who would go
on to take top honors at
an international culinary
competition in Costa Rica
two years in a row and,
later, earn that gold medal
at the Culinary Olympics.
Chef Lebrón credits
four highly acclaimed ACF Left: Chef Ana Lebron inspecting her kitchen as she
prepares for reopening after COVID-19 shutdowns. Right:
chefs who mentored her ACF Dominican Republic’s modern ceviche presented
and her team for the past during the 2020 IKA Culinary Olympics in Germany.
eight years, and for helping cheese, chenchén (Dominican cracked-corn
establish the Dominican pilaf) and a coconut-cilantro shrimp sauce. The
Republic chapter: Chefs meat dish was Brangus beef tenderloin with veal
Louis Perrote, CEC, AAC; mousseline, wild mushrooms and deconstructed
Victor Sommo; Stafford DeCambra, mondongo (beef tripe and vegetable soup), with tongue wrapped in brioche alongside a
CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC; and George tomato ragout and artichokes with wild oregano hollandaise. Dessert was a play on coconut
Castañeda, CEC. She points to Chef cremoux with gelled mango, chinola (passionfruit) ganache, citrus sorbet and candy made
Castañeda for helping bring her gold- with guava, white chocolate and fresh mango, to represent the various fruits of the region.
winning team to Germany. “Normally, “When we came back, we were planning to host a big party to celebrate with our
it takes at least two years to practice for colleagues, and invite the media, but within two weeks, COVID-19 happened and
the competition, but we put together everything closed,” she says. Like so many chefs in the industry, Chef Lebrón had to
our program in just three months,” Chef pivot her business model quickly to pay her staff and the bills, through new tactics like
Lebrón says, nothing she stepped away preparing lunch boxes for Microsoft employees who were now working from home.
from other responsibilities so she could Times are still tough, of course, but Chef Lebrón says she refuses to stay idle.
devote all her time to practice. “We Instead, she’s been keeping busy by preparing for the next competition —
were just repeating and repeating and she also is the only Certified Judge in the Dominican Republic for worldwide
remaking dishes all the time until we competitions sanctioned by the World Association of Chefs’ Societies and the ACF
mastered the techniques.” — as well as remaining in close contact with her chapter members and finding ways
One of the team’s most successful to educate the community.
dishes on the competition menu was a She has also been working with the local government and tourism department
modern interpretation of sancocho, a to raise funds to support ACF certification for cooks in the area, which would help
traditional beef and root vegetable stew, them find jobs and elevate their careers. In the meantime, she has established a
in this case made as a clarified broth with training program for local chefs, tackling everything from ServSafe, COVID-19 safety
seven types of meats, along with pumpkin, protocols, and nutrition, through small, socially distanced, masked gatherings in
rice, corn, root vegetables and plantain large banquet spaces. Chapter members have also gotten together to prepare meals for
chips. For the salad, Chef Lebrón and her residents of a local nursing home.
team prepared a colorful terrine of hearts “I have to keep busy, or I’ll go crazy,” she says. “People who like to compete … want
of palm and avocado, served with celery to [compete] all the time, so that’s what I have been doing, and we are having fun. We
ribbons, baby greens, toasted macadamia are focused on presenting the gastronomy of our country. One of my ideas is to present
nuts and citrus olive oil. Dominican Republic cuisine in one bite.”
For the fish course, Chef Lebrón took Having passed the practical portion of the Certified Executive Chef exam, Chef
inspiration from an ancestral fish-and- Lebrón also hopes to travel to the U.S. to complete the written portion of the exam
coconut dish, preparing poached red when it’s safe to do so.
snapper, Caribbean shrimp roulade, Ever-cheerful, Chef Lebrón says she’s “trying to stay calm and positive” even as the
charred pepper with Dominican farm future remains uncertain. After all, that’s the Dominican way.
WEARECHEFS.COM 23| Pastry |
IT’S ALL ABOUT THE FRUIT
Pastry chefs are expanding their repertoire of cake recipes with
this naturally sweet ingredient // By Robert Wemischner
Who doesn’t love a good cake? The grand dame of desserts
never goes out of fashion. From rustic to refined, new wave to
classic, and everything in between, cakes hold a place of pride
on menus in restaurants, hotels and any place where the desire
for sugary treats at teatime and dessert time cannot be denied.
Cakes offer something sweet and satisfying, and adding fruit
creates a new dimension of flavor.
Executive Pastry Chef Miro Uskokovic of Gramercy Tavern
in New York reaches for seasonal fruits when making his cakes.
“Fall and winter lead me to use locally grown New York apples,
paired with organic carrots, in our apple-and-carrot cake,” he
says, noting this plated dessert also features whipped sheep’s-
milk vanilla yogurt and an apple-and-raisin compote. “I might
sneak some rye or buckwheat flour into that at times, or into
my upside-down apple or pear cakes, for textural interest and
a boost of nutty flavor. I also like to add some fruity accents in
the fillings in our layered cakes. House-made jams and frostings
edged with fruit play important roles here, too.”
Chef Uskokovic doesn’t shy away from using bleached
flour for his fruit-based cakes. “Though vilified [in some health
circles], it tastes better, and I get an impressive rise from the
cakes, while avoiding that ‘floury’ taste of the unbleached form,”
he says. “I have also expanded my pantry to include alternative
sugars like jaggery, sorghum and maple syrup to amp up flavor
in the cakes.”
Patrick Fahy, executive pastry chef at the Four Seasons
Hotel Westlake Village, California, likes to dip into locally
grown flours, which, he says “add texture and character to our
recipes.” Sonora is a soft, white heritage wheat with low protein
and mellow gluten, while Red Fife is a nutty heritage grain that
was the standard wheat flour across North America years ago.
Chef Fahy also uses rye for a little extra bite to the flavor.
“At the hotel, we mill our own f lour from these grains
for freshness and maximum f lavor,” he says. “I find they pair
with everything from chocolate and nuts to fruits, including
citrus. Depending on the texture desired, for cakes featuring
fruit, I’ll go a little lighter on the rye and Red Fife to keep
24 NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021You can also read
