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Alpine Club Newsletter March 2018
July 2016
IN THIS ISSUE
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Introducing AC social
Message from the President media advisor, Jonny Dry
the world.
2017-18 Alpine Club Regional Lectures
“Our two teams working on
digitisation of the journals will
eventually meet sometime in the
1920’s“
says our Hon. Librarian Barbara
Grigor-Taylor.
the far west of Nepal. In this talk Becky Tuesday 10 July 2018: Graham
My thanks again to all club members LONDON will give an illustrated account of the Hoyland: Yeti tracked down at last
engaged as volunteers and as 55 Charlotte Road, EC2A 3QF expedition Graham
participants. Lectures start at 7.30pm Hoyland, the
As the BMC move toward a formal Contact: derek@bucklefamily.com climber who
agreement of new Memorandum was responsible
and Articles and of the ORG Tuesday 27 March 2018: Rafal for finding
recommendations sometime this year, Malczyk: Exploration and First the body of
our IT team are setting up a Facebook Ascents in the East Karakoram George Mallory
page for debate and discussion. We on Mount
V olunteers are the heart of any
successful club. The Alpine
Club is no exception. Most of the
want Alpinet to remain a source of
‘climbing’ information for members,
but I am sure members will welcome
A hooked climber and runner ever
since Dad took my brother and Tuesday 8 May 2018: Ben & Zoe
Everest, has been on another quest. On
an expedition to the remote Himalayan
I up Flying Buttress, I have particular Dickey: Passing kingdom of Bhutan he found and filmed
work this coming year will again be a forum page to discuss national and This presentation will footprints of the mythical Yeti in a part of
passion for mountainous regions and
done by Members. They give up time international issues that might affect be a combination of the country which has never before been
to undertake a multitude of tasks; the club. Here’s to a good year’s more broadly culture; be it litera-
ture, film, music or art. Currently I pictures and videos visited by Western explorers.
they are on various committees and climbing in 2018. created by Zoe and
am researching an MA on mountain In a lost valley near the unclimbed
working groups, at the George Starkey her father Ben. Both
John Porter literature and Modernism at Lancas- mountain Gangkar Punsum, Graham
Hut, in the Alpine Club Library, In September 2017 five members of the AC derive inspiration
ter University with the focus ranging Hoyland believes he was stalked by the
organisers of meets and lectures, and explored the rarely visited Sumur Glacier from mountains, mysterious Yeti, a beast so unspeakably
in keeping the Club informed both in The Alpine Journal 2017 across UK and international writing. region of the East Karakoram where landscapes and powerful that locals says it can kill a yak
print and online. A good example of Alongside this formal study I work members of the team successfully made the walking, one by
Make sure you have your with one savage blow of its fist.
where the Club’s heritage meets the for both the Mountain Heritage first ascents of Tsagtug Kangri (6078m) way of painting and
copy. Additional copies avail-
modern day is found on our home web able at a price of £26.00 from Trust and Mount Everest Founda- and Sumur Kangri (5991m). In this talk the other by way of
page (www.alpine-club.org.uk). Here the AC Office or via Amazon. tion, developing marketing material Rafal will give an illustrated account of the videos; much of which result from their
you can access thousands of uploaded
expedition reports. The Alpine Club
for each to promote their work to expedition. Lakeland experiences. This promises to EDINBURGH (AC/SMC/JMCS)
younger generations. I’ve published Tuesday 10 April 2018: Jim be an evening with a difference. See also 22A Atholl Crescent,, Atholl Crescent, EH3 8HQ
library is in the process of digitising http://www.cornucopia.tv/ambientvideo Lectures start at 7.30pm
not only the remaining sets of MEF In mid-January the Library sent a writing on UKClimbing.com and Herrington: The Climbers
Jim is a renowned Contact: timmyelson@hotmail.com or
reports, but the remaining years of list through Member Email of all Footless Crow that has dealt with the Tuesday 22 May 2018: Osman
photographer zoeflow@hotmail.com
Alpine Journals not yet on line. Only printed books added to our shelves history of mountain culture, how it is Ehtisham Anwar: Climbing
the AC offers this vast amount of in the last six months. For members changing in a modern age, and what who for nearly Opportunities in Pakistan's
two decades has Tuesday 13 March 2018:
information to climbers from around wishing to receive this by post, please impact this is having. Outside of the Karakoram Members’slides
contact Nigel in the Library on 0207 been working on
mountain community I work exten- a portrait series
Cover Photo: Atmosphere on the 613 0745 or by post, or by email to sively in the film industry directing
BRISTOL (SOUTH-WEST)
library@alpine-club.org.uk A new of early-to-mid
Aretes de Rochefort by Tom Hare fictional work and music videos, with 20th Century
Second in the 2017 AC Photo list of additions will be distributed at Upper Room, Nova Scotia, BS1 6XJ
6-monthly intervals. an upcoming film released in 2018 on mountain climbing legends. The result is
Competition: Mountain Landscapes the psychological impact of dementia. Lectures start at 7.30pm
The Climbers, a collection of sixty black-
Contact: twestcott@btinternet.com
and-white photographs that document
these rugged individualists, including the
Committee Members Library likes of Royal Robbins, Reinhold Messner,
President John Porter ACL Chair Hywel Lloyd Joe Brown, Yvon Chouinard and Riccardo KENDAL (ESC/AC)
Vice-Presidents Sandy Allan ACL Secretary Philip Meredith Cassin. Between the 1920s and 1970s these Hawkshead Brewery, Staveley, nr Kendal
In September 2017 Osman joined an Lectures start at 7.30pm
Rob Collister Book sales Gordon Turner determined men and women used primitive expedition to attempt Thugeen Sar (Sonia Contact: steve@mountainfest.co.uk
Honorary Secretary Charles Stupart Photograph sales Sue Hare gear along with their considerable wits, Peak, ~6200m) in Pakistan. Having no prior
Honorary Treasurer Trevor Campbell Davis Honorary Archivist Glyn Hughes talent, and fortitude to tackle unscaled mountaineering experience, he enlisted the
Honorary Editor of AJ Ed Douglas Honorary Keepers peaks around the world. In these images, help of an experienced, albeit gung-ho, local
Honorary Librarian Barbara Grigor-Taylor Artefacts Jerry Lovatt Herrington has captured their humanity, guide from Shimshal for the expedition. HATHERSAGE (PEAKS)
Monuments Charlie Burbridge obsession, intellect, and frailty. The book, Initially they naively considered Laila Peak, Outside Cafe, Hathersage
Sub-Committee Chairs
Paintings John Fairley published in October 2017, received both but watching a YouTube video of a Spanish Lectures start at 7.30pm
Climbing & Events Stuart Worsfold
Photographs Peter Rowland the Grand Prize and the Mountaineering professional mountaineering expedition Contact: chris.harle@outside.co.uk
Finance John Dempster
Himalayan Index Sally Russell History Award at the 2017 Banff Film & prompted them to reconsider and common
Marketing, Membership
Book Festival. sense prevailed, thankfully! As beautiful as
& Recruitment Tony Westcott AC/ACL Staff
the mountain looked, it was well above their Lectures in the regions will resume in
Property Victor Saunders Office Manager Stephen Grey Tuesday 24 April 2018: Becky Coles:
(zero-mountaineering-experience) league. the Autumn.
Elective Members Richard Nadin Librarian Nigel Buckley First Ascent of Lasarmula, Far West of
Becky Coles Nepal This lecture will describe this expedition and If you would like to give a lecture or
Melanie Windridge In Autumn 2016 Rebecca Coles and aim to encourage climbers and mountaineers suggest possible speakers please get
Newsletter Editor Adele Long
Simon Verspeak made an ascent of La- (novice and experts alike) to consider more in touch with the regional lecture co-
Assistant Honorary Secretary Sherry Macliver (not on Committee)
sarmula (6246m) in the Humla region of expeditions to Pakistan. ordinators.
2
2017 GANDIVA, ARJUNA, INDIAN HIMALAYA
EXPEDITION
Steep, sunny rock on the crux
Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn
Rafal Malczyk descending from Tsagtuk North summit (6078m)
after the 1st ascent. Photo: Drew Cook
The ascent required an arduous five hours of post-holing up
the easy-angled glacier. Disappointingly, this top turned out to
be simply the high point of three convergent ridges, rather than
a true peak, and was thus dubbed Deception Point, a name for
which we were unable to get a Ladakhi translation.
Several days later, from the third high camp at 5680m on the
adjacent glacial spur, the same team made the first ascent of Pk
6078, a twin summitted peak at the head of the glacier beyond
Full reports of expeditions will appear in the AJ. the East Rassa Col, via its SE Face on 25th September. Once
again the ascent was only achieved after another five hours of
extensive post-holing. The face steepened over the final few
2017 RASSA EXPEDITION hundred metres to the lower, rocky South summit (6071m)
before a relatively straightforward traverse was made to the
slightly higher, snow-covered North top (6078m). We graded
this at Alpine PD and called the peak Tsagtuk Kangri (Ladakhi
for Twin Snow Peak). It offered superb views covering Leaving camp 2 on day 3 The Line!
Final pitch to the summit.
numerous unclimbed mountains in all directions. Photo: Usdean Hawthorn
Photo: Usdean Hawthorn
One of the more attractive peaks that caught our eye early on
was Pk 5991. This mountain overlooked our first high camp
at 5500m and lay immediately in front of the impressive north the light) we reached the snow cone we
face of unclimbed Nya Kangri (6480m). It simply cried out
Pete Graham, Ben Silvestre and pitches to bivvy at 5800m. The wind
Uisdean Hawthorn went to forced us to spoon with all our might to had ascended to begin with, and arrived
to be climbed. Early in the expedition we had failed to climb straight back at our tent. A frenzy of
it on account of poor quality,
the Kishwar area in the Indian keep warm that night.
Himalaya to attempt Arjuna’s eating, and extreme satisfaction in the
unstable snow, but by 29th We left camp slowly the following balmy temperatures, allowed us
September conditions had
South West Pillar via a new morning, with Pete leading us to the
route, Gandiva (E3/5.11 M5 to recuperate enough to carry our bags
improved markedly to allow top of the pillar in three pitches. From most of the way to BC that evening”.
three of the team to successfully
1400m). They decided to name here we had to abseil 30m into a notch.
the route Gandiva after the bow Ben Silvestre
complete the first ascent via Above us a headwall loomed with some
Rafal Malczyk, Howard Pollitt & Drew Cook at Camp 3 with
its steep, 45°, WNW ridge.
given to the hero Arjuna by the roofs blocking our view to what lay Massive thanks to everyone that supported us,
Sumur Kangri (L) and Nya Kangri behind. Photo: Derek Buckle
Again we were confronted
creator God Brammah in Hindu above. I took over and did a 30m pitch
these sorts of trips are impossible without the help
of a lot of people. Primarily Mick Fowler, Jeff
mythology. on excellent chicken heads to a short
During September 2017, a party consisting of with continuous post-holing, Shapiro, and Kaushal Desai for being a mine of
but, because of our previous “Finally it was time to go. We left way below the roofs. There seemed to information. Rob Smith for keeping us well up
Derek Buckle, Drew Cook, Jamie Goodhart, to date with weather forecasts. The BMC, The
attempt, the early part of the camp early with light bags, most of our be a notch in the roofs which I aimed
Rafal Malczyk and Howard Pollitt visited the for, pulling through on huge holds, with
Mount Everest Foundation, The Montane Alpine
climb was made less strenuous gear already at the base of the route, at
Nubra Valley region of the East Karakoram, by the presence of vestigial all the exposure one could ask for. The
Club Climbing Fund, and The Austrian Alpine
4700m. Intimidated by the size of the Club (UK) for their generous financial support.
the second time that two of the team had been tracks. We graded this route route we took a big rack. We packed 6000m mark called for a change into big Also Mountain Equipment, Primus Equipment,
to this part of Ladakh. Derek Buckle on the first ascent Alpine AD and chose to call food for four days and enough gas to boots. A long pitch on steep snow took Scarpa, Grivel, Edelweiss, Summit to Eat,
OTEsports, GU Energy, Tiso, Garmin equipment
The overall plan was to explore the Sumur Glacier northeast of Sumur Kangri. the peak Sumur Kangri after melt water for six. We climbed some us to a small, but sheltered, bivvy.
respectively.
of the Shyok-Nubra confluence from which they hoped to Photo: Drew Cook the major glacier system from chossy ramps to access steep snow We rose early and Uisdean did a couple
make the first ascents of one or more of the many unclimbed which it rose. leading up to a notch at 5000m. This of big traverse pitches to land us below
mountains in the region. Unfortunately, due to a family Every peak/point was climbed in excellent, clear weather, but gave the start of the real rock climbing, the right hand of two ‘horns’ that domi-
bereavement, Jamie had to leave the expedition early, but climbing options were limited on account of unstable snow and we were pleasantly surprised to nated the summit area of the mountain.
other members of the team successfully climbed two virgin lying on all northerly faces. There was extensive evidence of find excellent, featured granite leading A steep and extremely strenuous mixed
peaks and were the first to extensively explore several recent avalanche activity during our time on the glacier system, up to the start of the arête. Six excellent step guarded entry to the gully, which
branches of the complex Sumur Glacier. with at least one occurring as we passed safely beneath it. It pitches took us to a palatial bivvy site at gave great ice climbing up to the summit
After a multi-day trek up the steep Sumur Lungpa, the team was this ever present danger that prevented our venturing over around 5300m where Pete fixed another ridge and then the summit in a further
eventually established a base camp by the scenic Sumur the East Rassa Col (north-westerly aspect) onto the Rassa pitch up to a large corner while Uisdean three pitches. We stayed there for about
Lakes at 5,160m. From this camp, three high camps were glacier to the south, which was one of our primary objectives. cleared the ledge of stones. about 20 minutes, then descended off the
subsequently established on the two more-southerly arms Derek Buckle The next day I took the lead, and the SE face via 14 abseils to a glacier, which
of the glacier. From the second of these camps, located on corner provided an interesting technical we walked down to a notch above a
the most southerly arm at 5743m, Derek, Drew, Rafal and The team are grateful for the support of the Mount Everest exercise. A series of traverses, aretes gully, where we bivvied again.
Howard successfully made the first ascent of Point 6068m via Foundation, the Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund, the Aus-
and crack lines led to a pitch reminiscent We rose before the sun hit the gully, and
trian Alpine Club (UK) and Duffler of Sweden.
its technically easy SW slopes (Alpine F) on 18th September. of the Strand at Gogarth, after which after a further four abseils (and much The summit
Uisdean took over, leading a further five gratitude for our decision to wait for Photo: Peter Graham
4
HUMLA, NEPAL EXPEDITION 2017 MOROCCO ANTI-ATLAS MEET 2017
plans for the day were discussed and Mohammed, at the Argana hotel, and
information relating to the best routes and learning some Arabic in return.
shady spots shared, followed by cragging A mid-week rest day provided opportunity
or big mountain routes, and ending in to explore the local market and haggle for
convivial suppers. Roles were quickly souvenirs such as baboushes (flat leather
established: Nigel (Life Coach) “Well if it slippers), to patronize the only known
all goes wrong Hazel, you can just come source of beer, the Hotel Amandiers, or to
down”, Neil (Professional optimist) “Are experience a traditional Hamman where
you about to start your second climb?”. dermis-shredding vegetation is replaced by
Each walk-in generally started from a small naked women wielding dermis-shredding
village with varying degrees of opportunity loofahs. The meet then moved to the
for interacting with the locals, all of whom impressive and imposing Hotel Kasbah,
seem to greet us with an equal measure of a 12th century fortress. sitting high
delight and bemusement. The paths were above the road affording beautiful views
often indistinct and narrow, exposing any across the surrounding hills and plains.
bare flesh to the dermis-shredding thorny Hosts, Jamal and Malaika, are gently
vegetation. encouraging this sleepy refuge into the 21st
century, renovating each space to create a
comfortable and enchanting escape from
the modern world, (aka civil servant speak
for “poor Wifi”). Breakfasts on the balcony
Neil Atkinson on Eagle’s Beak (HVS) were followed by more successful days
Mark Bielby on summit of an unamamed peak
Photo: Adele Long climbing and numerous forays into valleys
at 5400m. Photo: Emily Ward
both known and unknown. New routes
The 2017 Anti-Atlas meet was were found at Tramline slabs, where a
co-ordinated by Nicholas Hurndall group outing produced ascents of the 3 star
Ardang, without agreeing to being the angle eased to a 40-45 degree romp Smith and was based initially at the Marrakesh Express and Orient Express,
guided up the mountain. We therefore to the unstable rock summit ridge. I Hotel Argan in Tafraout, then the and new ascents (tbc) of the two-pitch
Hotel Kasbah, in Idaougnidif. corner crack line Chattanooga Choo Choo
chose to explore the lower, nearby attempted an unnamed 6200m peak, (HS 4b) by Laura and Paul, the steep A
Phupharka Himal. This range is but reached an unclimbable cliff band The meet was attended by 12 climbers Wee Tram (MVS 4b) by Nick and Mark,
some who knew the area well and others and the 4-pitch Up Your Arete (HS 4b)
suffering badly from global warming, at c.5650m. We also unsuccessfully for whom it was a first experience. The on West Gully Buttress by Neil and Adele.
being significantly drier than shown attempted the aesthetic 5800m peak 13th member of the meet was Bob, one of Climbs in the Azumer valley included
in Paulo Grobel’s photos and the from both north-west and southern several gnomes from the Castle Climbing the new Over the Rainbow (S) by Mark
Centre in London. Bob and his pals have
recent GHT maps. Mark summited cwms. The lengthy approaches (6 and been known to undertake hard multi-pitch
and Laura. E numbers of the non-edible
a c.5600m peak (I turned back with 9 hours respectively) and -25C alpine variety were also available and partaken
routes all over the world and can be seen of, including Moroccan Gold (E2 5b), by
AMS 100m below), via a mixed, starts proved too energy consuming. posing for blog photographs as proof. Richard and Nick, Marrakesh Express (E1
loose ridge and névé patches on the We took an extra day on the trek ‘Adventure’, the guidebook promised. The 5a), by Nick, Nigel and Max, Saladin (E1
northern side. Realising how dry and home to climb a water-ice gully up a drive from Agadir to Tafraout was not for 5a), by Nick and Max and the bold Flying
the faint hearted, nor was it advisable to Nigel Bassam on Howzat (VS 4c) at Palm Scotsman (HVS 5a), by Nigel and Max.
short the faces were in Phupharka, we 4900m peak east of the Salli Khola. A attempt it at night. It was therefore with Tree Gorge Photo: Adele Long
decided to use the forecasted week of few hundred metres of easy ice above some trepidation that, having arrived at From the first base in Tafraout, teams
changeable weather to move to the with 4 main pitches; all c.50m long, Agadir airport at 10:30pm, spending over climbed at Palm Tree Gorge with Mark
one hour getting through arrivals and and I making ascents of Jarrad (MVS 4b)
glacial system up the Talun Khola. the first being sustained WI4, the rest reaching the hire car desk two minutes and Trader Vics (S), while Hazel and Nick
From here we climbed an unnamed WI3/4. Conditions were perfect, a fine ahead of closing time, Mark and I set off did Jarrad, Farouk Fundamentals (VS 4b),
5400m peak via a snow-ice gully. end to a challenging adventure! for Tafraout in a rather well-loved Fiat and Berber Buttress (VS 4b). Robin Hood
Punto. After two and a half hours of driving
After a short section of c.55 degrees Emily Ward under a starry sky, we arrived at the hotel in
and Maid Marion Rocks were frequented
with ascents of amongst others, Nemo and
Tafraout, to the welcome of a firmly locked the Sheep (S) and Odysseus (S). Mountain
door and no response to our persistent ascents included the epic Riding the Wild
knocks. Having clearly missed the pre-3am Winds (VS 4c) by Adele and Richard and
curfew, and disappointed that the guidebook Eagle’s Beak (HVS) by Max and Neil at
Nick Smith and Nigel Bassam enjoying the
had not yet delivered on the adventure front, view from the Kasbah Photo: Adele Long
Anergui. The excitement continued on
we decided to take matters into our own Pink Lady (VS 4c), ticked off by Adele and The end of meet dinner was punctuated
ice climbing up an unnamed 4900m peak hands; we laid back the seats in the Punto Hazel, and the excellent Gamma (HVS by a quiz on our host country and the
above the Salli Kohla. Photo: Emily Ward and settled in for a few hours sleep. 5a) at Greek buttress (Adele and Richard, development of climbing therein. The
Dawn was broken by the cheery chatter Nick and Paul). Sue and Lindsay took a winner was Paul Winder, who had wisely
Mark Bielby and I spent of climbers drinking coffee on the hotel characteristically relaxed approach to their used his rest day for swotting up and
balcony and discussing plans for the day
November to December 2017 ahead. After a warm welcomes of “oh yes,
climbing and mainly kept to shorter routes utilized his enviable and un-fathomable
(and approaches). They did manage a total ability to sleep on demand, to allow all the
in the Humla region of Nepal. I heard the knocking but didn’t feel like of seven new routes at Maid Marion and information to sink in and be processed
We hadn’t intended a winter getting up to answer at 3am”, “oh, was Anzumer, and also sampled the (rather ready for the evening’s test. It was with
that you? I wondered where you were”, sparsely) bolted granite of the domes to the some sadness that the climbing was to be
expedition but, with the frustrating we all made plans and headed out into the south of Tafraoute, spending much time ‘gno more’, at least for now. Our time in
bureaucracy of the permit system, Moroccan sunshine for the start of a super and effort wandering through hot desert Morocco was one of exploration, great
delays were inevitable. Due to the week of sunshine, exploring and climbing before discovering that lines described company and a lot of fun. The 2018 meet
on (mostly) immaculate rock. as southwest-facing, actually faced east. will no doubt already be a firm fixture in
amount of misinformation amongst the
The meet quickly settled into a daily In addition to their climbing feats, Sue many calendars, inshallah.
agencies, we were unable to arrange Emily Ward on the ridge of an unnamed 5600m peak with our next objectives on the
routine of leisurely breakfasts over which and Lindsay spent much time teaching
distant left hand skyline. Photo: Mark Bielby Laura Millichamp
a permit for our planned objective, English to our language-thirsty young host,
6
NEW BOOKS
Days to Remember him, carefully observing what is around; Award in the 2017 Banff Mountain
2018 Alpine Club Meets Rob Collister the physical effort never leading to tunnel Book Competition.
vision or goal seeking. Rob wants the Chasing the Ephemeral takes a fresh
Shortlisted for the reader to love the mountains as much as he
2017 Boardman look at getting the most from your
does, making its welfare the responsibility Scottish Winter season by analysing the
Tasker Award, Days to of us all. Maybe reading this book is a
Remember is a series of tactics and strategies required to select
ing to what people feel they can do. necessity, not an option? I just wish I had
7th ANNUAL JOINT AC/ Contact: Marian Parsons at mppar- SANDSTONE reflective essays on the been on a trip with him.
and climb the route best suited to the
conditions.
mountain days Rob has
CAF MARSEILLES sons1207@gmail.com 4-5 August 2018 enjoyed in the past and Published by Vertebrate Press. Simon divides the winter into chapters
29 April - 6 May 2018 several contemplative Adele Long centred on seasonal weather conditions,
Co-ordinators: Sarah Charlton and
Trad and bolted on sun-kissed French SWANAGE JOINT AC/ESC Marjan Schoeke articles on how they Chasing the Ephemeral – then selects specific routes around the
limestone by the sea. We will be joined 29th June - 1st July 2018 should remain as spaces 50 Routes for a Successful country which have a good chance
1 PLACE LEFT
by keen and well informed French climb- PEAK DISTRICT for enjoyment in the future. Scottish Winter of being in condition given different
ers, led by our old friend Remi Songeon. This is a Camping Meet, staying at Acton The book is divided into three parts, the freezing levels and wind patterns. Some
Field, Langton Matravers and is held 17 - 19 August 2018 Simon Richardson of these are well-known classics on
first focusing on his homeland of north
jointly with the Eagle Ski Club. Ben Nevis others hidden gems in the
SKYE MEET JOINT AC/ This campsite is located within easy
A camping weekend in the wilds of
Edale at Fieldsend campsite http://www.
Wales, the second adventures further Congratulations to
Alpine Club member Cairngorms and elsewhere.
afield and the third on issues of mountain
CRAVEN POTHOLE CLUB walking distance of coastal climbing fieldhead-campsite.co.uk/index.html environment and ethics. Simon Richardson Full of colour action photos, local lore,
12 -19 May 2018 and walking. There is also good biking Meet dinner on Saturday night in a local pub. whose book Chasing and essential beta, there is no excuse for
and walking inland, and beach access a Fun and games with climbing on Kinder and Rob’s knowledge of fauna and flora seems the Ephemeral – 50
borne out of a true love of the landscape missing out on one of the best winter
This will be our third meet in Skye with couple of miles away. Food is available other grit venues round and about, mountain Routes for a Successful
the CPC. The Hut is in a superb location in local pubs in Langton Matravers. he has made his home and his work place. climbing venues on the planet.
biking or just plain old walking. Scottish Winter took
at the bottom of Glen Brittle and offers Campsite website: http://www. When reading this book, he takes you with Published by Mica Publishing
actonfieldcampsite.co.uk/ Contact: Adele Long cxproducts1@gmail.com the top Guidebook
a great opportunity to access the Cuillin
Ridge. Not much further afield the rest There will be a large tent to allow for
of the Isle of Skye can also be visited, ALPINE ASPIRANTS
PAINTING COLLECTION REVEALED
some socialising. Members should bring
including caves, climbs, cycling (MTB and own food and drink. A BBQ will be
road) plus walking. The hut is hostel-type 25 - August 2018
arranged for one evening, depending
accommodation, with shower, drying room on the weather. Based in the Saas Valley, Switzerland,
and kitchen facilities. The cost for the week at Hotel Schönblick and the campsite For the first time, the paintings been difficult to know what is really there, first time. The value of an easily adapted
is £84 (assuming we fill the hut, otherwise If anybody wants to stay longer, it
should be possible to arrive earlier opposite, this meet is aimed primarily in the Alpine Club Collection so it was with some trepidation that I took database became evident as an efficient
£105). Preference will be for those booking at Aspirant members on their 1st or 2nd are available to view by all Club on the role of Hon. Keeper of the Paintings. means of making initial selections of
the whole week. and depart later. Due to the opening
arrangements early arrivals should Alpine season. members and visitors to the Alpine From the start it was clear that the only paintings for exhibition, and providing
Contact: Paul McWhinney at phm@ confirm with the site before arrival. The meet has 18 places, and starts with two
mcwhinney.info or mobile: 07973396948. Club Library. way to understand what was in my care information to the exhibition curator and
Cost: TBC days spent developing alpine techniques was to create a photographic database, everyone involved in preparing, packing and
Contact: John Kentish, 01474-365038 or with three mountain guides, including One of the Alpine Club’s many treasures
crevasse rescue and moving together, led by and the only way to do this was to conduct transporting the paintings.
mobile 07796-226561 , email; meetsec@ is its collection of paintings, drawings and
UK ALPINE INTRODUCTORY eagleskiclub.org.uk or via Alpinet AC member Owen Samuel. an inventory of the entire collection, Today, what started as a personal tool has
prints. Mostly, these pictures have been
LAKE DISTRICT The Saas valley is flanked by numerous donated by members and artists throughout
photographing each painting in turn. The evolved into a fully fledged database—the
4000m peaks with dozens of mixed resulting photographs are not high quality Alpine Club Collection—that any member
08 - 10 June 2018 - OBERLAND climbs in the lower grades, and is blessed the history of the club. Now, hidden from
by any means but they are sufficient for
view in store, they are rarely seen and can use at the Visitors’ Desk in the AC
This is a skills meet, based at the with excellent transport links. information and show the frame and mount
23 June- 7 July 2018 are little known. Only the few very large Library. It is the primary port of call to
George Starkey Hut in Patterdale. Contact: Nicholas Smith nhsmith@talk21.com as appropriate.
paintings that hang in the Lecture Room view the collection. There are around 750
The focus will be on transferring Meet co-ordinater: Philip Children
At the same time, preparations were paintings, drawings and prints and visitors
techniques to Aspirant Members who See AC website for more details. AC REUNION are familiar to members who frequent
under way for the 150th anniversary of can browse them making use of a simple
wish to improve their alpine skills, and Charlotte Road.
to Full Members in need of a refresher 21 - 23 September 2018 the Golden Age of Alpinism Exhibition in search screen on any of the fields displayed.
after a break from alpine climbing. JOINT ALPINE Although catalogued by Bob Lawford in
2015 in the Musée Alpin in Chamonix— Individual records can be selected for later
Informal guidance will be provided AC Reunion Meet at the George Starkey his card index, and later transcribed to a
7 -28 July 2018 Hut, Patterdale: http://www.abmsac.org. an exhibition that was to display a major study. The database is not yet available over
from more experienced members spreadsheet by Peter Malalleu, it has always
uk/UK%20Huts.html GRID REF: NY 396160 part of the collection to the public for the the Internet.
within the club, led by Sandy Allan. Joint with FRCC, ABMSAC, Climbers’
Topics will range from what to put Club, SMC, LSCC, Wayfarers, Pinnacle This meet is open to all members, but Bearing in mind that some of the framed
into your rucksack to some basic Alpine Club and Yeovil MC. is likely to be of greatest interest to pictures are quite large and that some items
mountaineering skills members who have attended meets
Camping Attermenzen in the village of through the year. There will be the usual are very fragile, access to the Paintings
Cost: £30.00 for the weekend (Friday Randa http://www.camping-randa.ch/ Store is not available. However, having
and Saturday nights) to cover the cost climbing and walking activities and a
of accommodation and expenses of The meet is a week earlier than normal communal meal on Saturday night. identified one or more paintings of interest
trainers. to take advantage of better snow There will be brief presentations of by using the database, it is possible to view
conditions in this mainly alpine area. photographs (max. 20) from the year’s the original paintings by prior arrangement
For an application form, please contact
Giles Robertson giles.robertson@gmail. Contact Keith Lambley via Alpinet meets and a chance to plan for next year. with the Librarian and/or the Keeper of the
com or Natalie Villarroel natvillarroel@ Other than the Saturday evening meal,
you need to supply your own food. Paintings. Photography is not allowed.
gmail.com CORNWALL Contact: John Kentish, on Alpinet for The Visitors’ Desk is based on a small Mac
GEORGE STARKEY HUT 12 - 15 July 2018 further information computer and, as well as the paintings
database, includes digitised maps and the
MAINTENANCE AC meet at Kelynack, St Just, Penzance,
ANTI-ATLAS, MOROCCO use of the scanner as well as the usual
with great access to the climbing areas.
22-25 June 2018 What to like: rock, sun, chips, cider, 10-18 November 2018
Internet browser facilities. Plans are afoot
cream teas, cake and ice cream. to provide other resources such as a similar
A joint ABM/AC Hut Maintenance Meet The meet will be split between the
organised by David Dunk and Marian Kelynack campsite is small and secluded, database for the artefacts and possibly a
Kasbah Tizourgane in the North of the selection of the thousands of photographs
Parsons. just a mile from the coast in the region and a hotel in the main town of
Bednights will be free to those willing to beautiful Cot Valley. Tafraout to the South. in the Photo Library.
put in a day’s work. There is no pressure Cost of camping: Est £8 pp per night Cost for the trip (flight, accommodation John Fairley,
to spend the whole weekend working; B and B and Caravans available for those and hire car mainly) is expected to be Hon. Keeper of the Paintings
one day work and one day play is fine! A who wish. around £500-£600.
free meal will be provided on the Satur- Contact:James Woodhouse via Alpinet or Contact: Max Streeton at malcolm_stree- Left: Screen-shot from the Alpine Club
day night. Jobs will be allocated accord- jameswoodhouse@lathallan.org.uk ton@fastmail.fm or on 07860 329525 Collection database
8
NEWS FROM THE PARISH CHURCH OF THE ALPINE CLUB IN ZERMATT JOINT ALPINE MEET - BREGAGLIA 15 JUL - 5 AUG 2017
first ascent of the Matterhorn. To this the building watertight through one more
day, the remains of Charles Hudson, who winter and the plan is to put the new roof
perished on the way down from the first on during summer 2018.
ascent, lie under the communion table. Since so many of the climbing fraternity
have a special affection for the English
Church in Zermatt, Intercontinental
Church Society (ICS) wishes to appeal
to today's Alpine Club membership to
play their part in preserving the church
for future generations by supporting the
appeal for funds to replace the roof.
Piz Palu Photo: Keith Lambley
So strong is the link, that in 1925
members and friends of the Alpine Club
generously paid for a new roof for the
church as the above-mentioned plaque
J oint with ABMSAC, Climbers’ Club, FRCC, SMC, LSCC,
Wayfarers, Pinnacle Club and Yeovil MC.
Over 50 people from seven clubs and their guests attended the meet during the
St. Peter’s English Church in commemorates. That roof has lasted three week period, and despite the weather forecasts being pessimistic at times
Zermatt is a special building amazingly well through many storms and the weather was good for most of the meet, a few teams encountering rain and The Fiamma Photo: Dave Connelly.
which has strong links with snowy winters, but in recent years it has If you would like to donate or indeed find snow on a couple of occasions.
the Alpine Club - some have started to deteriorate. Repairs and patches out more about the Church please see our The campsite staff in Vicosoprano were very welcoming and even though
even called it the ‘Parish have tried to extend its life, but the time webpage: www.ics-uk.org/Zermatt. If you ground sloped somewhat, most managed to find a spot flat enough not to
church of the Alpine Club’! has now come to replace it. prefer you can call us on 024-7646 3940 require a belay in the tent.
or write to the Intercontinental Church
Reading the history and looking around Again this year, rock climbing was more popular than the alpine peaks
Society, Unit 11 Ensign Business Centre,
the church, at the plaques on the wall especially as for the third year in a row it had been a lean winter and a very
Westwood Way, Westwood Business
and the graves outside, it is obvious to see hot spring, which in common with the rest of the Alps meant the glaciers were
Park, Coventry, CV4 8JA.
why. in poor condition. Ascents were made of Piz Badile (two teams climbing the
The Alpine Club Centenary and 150th Please mark your gift ‘Zermatt Roof’. Cassin route and several more the North Ridge), Piz Palu, Piz Morteratsch,
anniversary were celebrated with Services With your help ICS will be able to keep Piz Kesch, Il Chaputschin and Monte Disgrazia by several routes in ascent and
held at St. Peter’s in 1957 and 2007. St this beautiful building open, so that it descent one of which ended with a minor epic.
Peters had a major part in celebrating the may continue to provide a focal point
The multipitch rock routes surrounding the Albigna and Sciora huts saw many
centenary (1965) and 150th anniversary for alpinists, climbers, skiers, adventurers
ascents and the valley rock climbing and via ferrata were also popular.
(2015) of the Whymper expedition, the The cost of a new roof will be over and those drawn to these magnificent
A barbecue for 30 people was organised by Ellen ably assisted by Adam. When
£121,000. A temporary repair will keep mountains.
they volunteered to do it I don’t think they quite realised how many people
they would be catering for but it was a great success.
MESSAGE FROM THE HON. SEC. This summer, the meet will be held in the Valais, Switzerland, based at
Camping Attermenzen in the village of Randa (http://www.camping-randa.ch/)
from 7 July to 28 July 2018.This is a week earlier than usual to take advantage
I’m writing this the morning stock and to think about plans for the potentially other Clubs. That alone will
of better snow conditions in this mainly alpine area. I hope to see you all again.
after the last Committee forthcoming year. For the Hon. Secretary keep us going for the whole year.
Piz Badile North Ridge - Climber Maria Dixon
Keith Lambley
Meeting of 2017, which Team, as well as all the on-going meetings There is work to do around the re- Photo: Mike Ferguson
followed the Volunteers’ and business as usual stuff to keep going, introduction of the Alpine Climbing
Lunch. we have a list of project work. Group. We plan to produce a Handbook
Not quite a Hogmanay party, but there Getting to work on the concession but, with the pending changes above,
was a potentially mean “First Ascent” arrangements between the Alpine Club this is likely to be towards the end of
cocktail to be treated with caution and and other national Clubs is high up the the year. We will be working with the IT
“Old Fashioned” which is basically just list. First will be the Swiss Alpine Club Sub-Committee regarding the compliance
a lot of whisky and a bit of sugar and which, with three Alpine Meets by the with the new General Data Protection
some bitters being served up by Nigel, the Club during 2018 to Switzerland, will Regulations that are planned to come into
Librarian and onetime hippy-hippy-shakes ensure members having no problems force in the spring. We are also in early
cocktail barman. It was a good see so receiving discounted bed nights. Next stages of planning a London Dinner, as
many of the Club’s members, who have will be the Club Alpin Français and then well as the AGM and Winter Dinner that
given up their free time during the last 12 is provisionally planned for North Wales.
months to help the Club tick along, enjoy There is much more to do but we need
some social time together. We thank to also get out into the mountains - in
them for their volunteering. Scotland, France, Iran, Nepal....
The end of the old year and the beginning Charles Stupart and Team Piz Badile summit - Climbers Mike Ferguson & Maria Dixon Via Leni - Spazzacaldeira - Climber Dominic Schneiders
of the new is traditionally the time to take Photo: Mike Ferguson Photo: Rick Snell
10
AC Photo Competition 2017 Results The Alpine Climbing Group: Past and Present
amongst that group there was a wide range 2017 we hosted a visit by a team of six
PAST of experience and corresponding needs. young Slovenian mountaineers, shepherded
Whilst a team of half a dozen taking part by Marko Prezelj. Despite erratic and lean
The Alpine Climbing Group was
in a formal multi-year mentoring program, conditions typical of last winter, the Brits
founded during the winter of 1952-53.
as practiced in other countries, would catch and Slovenes bonded over ascents up to
Its first President, Tom Bourdillon, wrote a the headlines it would be expensive and grade VIII in Glen Coe and on Ben Nevis,
note about it in the Alpine Journal in 1956 focus all available resources on a select few. and the two teams will be reunited in
: 'The renaissance of British climbing in the After researching other countries mentoring February 2018 in Slovenia.
Alps after the hiatus of the war years has the scheme, and after speaking to several
been slow and is still far from complete. Around the same time we will be continuing
During and immediately after the war there the rich history we have of exchanges
were remarkable advances in the techniques with Polish mountaineers, as five of their
of alpinism on the Continent, but these youngsters visit Scotland in February and
were balanced by the equally dramatic some of our group head to the Tatras in
raising of the standard of free rock climbing March. Seven of our young group will
in Great Britain, and it is curious that there be joining together, which for many of
Matterhorn from Hirli Ben Tibbetts On Dables Arete of Tacul Ben Tibbetts should not have been a more rapid revival them will be their first ever expedition
to Kyrgyzstan in the summer, as well as
A
of British climbing in the Alps. One of the
s most will already know John Cleare, to view and select those material. Finally, each award-winning
reasons for the failure is that in Britain it further plans for exchanges to France, Italy
2017 saw the first attempt worthy of receiving an award. picture was projected and John gave and perhaps, at a later date, an expedition
at an Alpine Club Photographic John Cleare went through the selection some final detail regarding his selection has been hard to learn much about current
to Pakistan.
Competition. Now well into a number of times during a 10-day process plus some advice where helpful. Alpine climbing…’.
Young alpinists from Britain and Slovenia
the digital age more and more period. He mulled over his earlier John was a true professional and the Members were restricted to active taking part in the Scottish leg of an exchange Through the process different bodies have
people are able to produce selections, making changes, until he star of the afternoon. mountaineers and ‘retirement’ was this February in Glen Coe. The Brits are re- offered support; key among them are the
quality images, none more so was happy he had selected those that, There will be another AC Photo automatic at aged 40 years. The main
turning to Slovenia in February 2018.” Photo:
Ian Parnell
BMC, the Alpine Club and the Mount
than mountaineers. in his view, were the best. Competion in 2018, this time with purpose was to establish a cadre of British Everest Foundation, and part of the success
The Alpine Club has been blessed with The quality of images that got awards three categories: mountain landscaper, alpinists who were at the cutting edge of of the main organisers, I also felt that
so far has been due to this partnership
photographers from the early days: proved to very good so it was decided mountain action and mountain mountaineering. between like minded bodies. There is good
particular approach had several potential
Edward Whymper, Vittorio Sella and to produce a 2018 Calendar, another community. momentum, and if it continues then the
first for the Alpine Club. Copies of The Alpine Club and the Alpine Climbing pitfalls. Perhaps the key one being that it
William Donkin, through the John 2018 Competition rules can be found future of British mountaineering looks
the calendar went on sale at the Club Group merged on I July 1967, the ACG didn’t seem the best way to address the
Noel and Finch era 1920s/30s to more in this Newsletter and on the AC need for today’s young alpinists to develop
bright.
modern times with Chris Bonington, dinner in Somerset and then online via becoming a special section within the AC.
website. strong independent motivation and decision Ian Parnell
Doug Scott and of course John Cleare. the AC website. Extract from the Alpine Journal 1967
Immediately before the dinner we were
Peter Rowland making – in my view the biggest factor in
Moving into the digital era we have p197-200: AK Rawlinson
the likes of Paul Ramsden and Mick given a slot for John Cleare to inform successful mountaineering. Asian Piolet d’Or Lifetime
Fowler. Of course, there have been, the members present what he saw, We held a series of meetings during late
what he was looking for and why he
Achievement Award
and are, many more. 2016 and early 2017 in the Lake District,
The 2017 competition was a first made the selections. This went down PRESENT North Wales and then the Peak District, AC Honorary
for the club. However, in the late extremely well. While John spoke, a during which we, as well as canvassing Member Harish
digital sequence was projected that In 2016 the up and coming mountain Kapadia has
18th and early 19th centuries the talent Tom Livingstone asked me to opinion from young climbers, were very
club put on print exhibitions which showed half of the competition entries, just been
including all of the award winners look into the possibility of a mentoring privileged to hear the shared wisdom
are well reported in the respective presented with
plus at least one image from each of program for young British Alpinists. from the likes of Paul Ramsden, Dr Tom
Alpine Journals. There was also a big John Cleare at the 2017 AC dinner: on the Asian Piolets
the other members who had submitted Tom had been impressed about reports Southworth, Nick Colton, Pat Littlejohn, d'Or Lifetime
exhibition of Donkin material and judging the Photo Competition
about mentored teams of young John Porter and Rebecca Coles, who all Achievement
fortunately the club still has these
mountaineers abroad such as Steve House’s volunteered their experience for free. Award at the
images. Mountain Action
group in the US, Marko Prezelj’s group During this process it became clear that in celebrations in
In June 2017 it was decided to have
First: On Innominata Ridge, Mont Blanc Ben Tibbetts in Slovenia and a well-established New looking for a process that allowed young Seoul, Korea.
a competition and it was announced
Zealand group, and was keen to see a alpinists to meet like minded climbers, The Piolets
to all members via the club’s website, Second: On Kuffner, Mont Blanc Ben Tibbetts
similar ‘set up’ in the UK. As a result we d'Or Asia is the official award celebrating
Newsletter, Alpinet and social media, gain experience from older mentors,
Third: Walking on the glass Andrey Golovachev remarkable ascents achieved by Asian
where the Rules and Entry Form had an inaugural meeting at the Alpine develop skills and share motivation, we
Highly Commended: On Peuterey Ben Tibbetts mountaineers, and is now in its 12th
could be downloaded. The aim was Club’s George Starkey Hut in the Lakes, had a solution ready formed – the Alpine year. Kapadia has received the Lifetime
to announce the results at the club’s Commended: On Dables Arete of Tacul Ben Tibbetts which attracted 35 young keenies. A lot has Climbing Group. Once a melting pot of the Achievement Award for his enormous
annual dinner in November. happened since that first meeting 12 months finest young mountaineers in Britain, there
Scotland comes to the Ecrins Tom Hare contribution to the exploration of the
Images started to appear soon after the ago, and whilst we don’t have a formally seemed no reason that we couldn’t revitalize Himalaya, through which he has been
announcement and it ended up that Mountain Landscape mentored team we now have something the group with an input of new young climbing and travelling for the last 55
there were an equal number of entries that I feel is potentially better and a lot members. To that end Dave Wilkinson, Roy years and written widely on the subject,
for the two categories, “Mountain First: Matterhorn from Hirli Ben Tibbetts including 17 books. He is the first Indian
more British – the revitalization of the Ruddle, John Porter, Nigel Hollingworth
Landscape” and “Mountain Action”. Second: Atmosphere on the Aretes de Rochefort Tom Hare to be honoured with this award and his
Alpine Climbing Group. and Charles Stupart among many others
As is normal with these types of events have all been very helpful and we have acceptance speech can be read by following
Third: Biancograt Tony Westcott Canvassing opinion at that first meeting,
three preliminary judges and a final begun fine tuning arrangements for a new
this link.
judge were appointed. The preliminary and garnering feedback from over 70 young
Highly Commended: Go with the Floe Andrey Golovachev http://www.harishkapadia.com/credentials/royal-geo-
British mountaineers, it was evident that intake of young members in 2018.
judges, David Baldock, Mike Esten and graphical-society-patrons-medal/acceptance-speech/
Peter Rowland had the job of selecting Commended: Vanishing Castle Andrey Golovachev there was a sizeable group interested in In the meantime events amongst the group Lindsay Griffin
the very best images for the final judge, Kitchen Views Ben Thorne pushing their own mountaineering but that have already been taking place. In February
12
SKYE MEET 2017 DEATHS NEW MEMBERS
The Alpine Club regret to inform you of the following sad deaths The Alpine Club is pleased to welcome the following
of members: members:
Elizabeth Hawley Norman Hardie
Fred Becky Lt. Col. Simon Hall
Full Proposed by
Al Burgess J Porter & R Nadin
Iain McMorrin Richard Gilbert
Anna Kennedy L Harrison & R Nadin
Adrian Clifford Ian Parnell J Porter & R Nadin
Informal tributes to deceased members are on the website and Marc Andre Pepin T Westcott & R Nadin
full obituaries will be published in the Alpine Journal. John Powell J Porter & R Nadin
John Punshon R Pettigrew & R Nadin
Renato Rivelli M Blatto & R Nadin
NEW OBITS EDITOR Ramsey Villanueva J Porter & R Nadin
Aspirant to Full
Rod Smith is the Alpine Journal’s new assistant editor for the
Tarquin Cooper K Cool & R Nadin
Obituaries section:
Richard Ive N Smith & R Nadin
I have hugely enjoyed a long but largely
Hannah Moulton A Dye & R Nadin
undistinguished mountaineering career, starting
with the stairs at home after watching The
Lili Mulvany N Berry & R Nadin
Conquest of Everest, graduating via gritstone in Ken Mulvany N Berry & R Nadin
my native Saddleworth to seasons in the Alps, Christina Richards C Clarke & R Nadin
Dave Payne and Jim Evans Greenland, Norway, Spitzbergen, the Karakoram John Sellars T Pollard & R Nadin
looking for their swords. and Nepal. I was elected a member of the FRCC Marjan Shoeke C Stupart & R Nadin
Photo: Paul McWhinney in 1977 and the Alpine Club in 2003. I remain Malcolm Townsley J Venier & R Nadin
reasonably active on modest rock climbs, the
Marsden-Edale, via ferrata, trekking in the Aspirant
T his joint meet, co-ordinated by Paul McWhinney
with Craven Caving Club, was based on Skye at the
Glenbrittle Hut and enjoyed mostly blue skies and superb
Himalaya and skiing. I am the proud owner of a
large climbing and polar library, the housing of
which causes some marital tensions.
Barney Loosemore
Callum McCue
R Nadin
R Nadin
Philip Peel R Nadin
I am keen to uphold the Club’s tradition of producing authoritative,
mountaineering. Seventeen members of the two clubs informed and interesting obituaries for our deceased members. And with
Emily Thompson R Nadin
attended; six from the AC. John Fairley made an impressive this in mind, I request the help of all fellow members. In many cases the Mike Mason R Nadin
arrival by train and bike. only records the Club holds are the original application forms and very often
little is known about the member’s subsequent career in the mountains.
Ascents included Pinnacle Ridge; Sron na Ciche & the We rely on members to help fill this gap; you are very welcome to provide 6. The digital images can be in either portrait (vertical) or
Cioch; a traverse of the Cuillin from Sligachan to Coruisk, a summary of the highlights, even lowlights, of your activities for the Club’s landscape (horizontal) format.
up the Dubh slabs and back to Glenbrittle; a walk from files. And we always want to hear from those suitably informed either 7. The images must be in their final format as defined above.
to contribute or offer recommendations on potential contributors. One The Competition Secretary will not perform any manipulations,
Sligachan to Elgol and a token gesture to the caving does not wish to dwell on the inevitable, but the variety and richness of resizing or other alterations to the presented images, other than
fraternity with a visit to the chambered cairn on the south- members’ lives is well worth celebrating. to place all of the entries into a single competition folder for
west promontory of Rubh’ an Dunain. The Hut is booked Rod Smith forwarding to the designated judge.
for 12-19 May 2018 (see AC Meets). 8. The images should be submitted as flattened 8-bit RGB or
greyscale files in the highest quality JPEG format. Images in other
Tony Westcott
THE ALPINE CLUB formats such as PSD or images with unflattened layers will be
rejected.
PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION RULES 2018 9. For each image submitted please include a short title to include
Typical weather on descent of Pinnacle Ridge from Sgurr nan Gilliean the location. All image files are to be named in the style: Category,
Photo: Tony Westcott Image Number, Image Title, Location (e.g. Mountain Action,
1. The competition is open only to members of the Alpine Club Image 3 - Nearly There, Mont Blanc).
2. The subject matter must relate to mountains or mountaineering. 10. You may not enter an image previously submitted for an
There will be three categories: Alpine Club Photo Competition, or one so similar as to be almost
1. Mountain Landscape identical, irrespective of title.
2. Mountain Action 11. Each picture will be considered separately and on-screen by the
3. Mountain Community judge.
3. Each member may submit an entry of up to three digital images 12. The final udge will award first, second and third, plus one
per category via email to the Alpine Club at photos@alpine-club. highly commended.
org.uk and acpl2015@outlook.com. 13. The judge’s decision will be final. No discussion will be entered
Images must be submitted in digital format: they may have into.
been scanned from film or transparency stock, or taken with a 14. The entrant agrees that any image entered into the competition
digital camera or iPhone. The images should be as shot, i.e. no may be used by the Alpine Club for publicity purposes, and that
components added/photoshopped from other images. the images may be shown to other Alpine Club events.
The member submitting the images must be the author and the 15. No acknowledgement will be made for receipt of entries.
owner of the copyright. 16. The judge this year will be: TBA
4: The images must have been captured during the 5-year period 17. The following dates should be noted, and are critical:
between 1st June 2013 and 31st August 2018. Also, the submitted Entries to arrive by end of day 31st August 2018
images should not have been published elsewhere or entered into Preliminary judging completed by 15th September 2018
other competitions. Final judging completed by 1st October 2018
5. There will be no entry fee but the completed and signed Entry Results will be announced at the Alpine Club Annual Dinner.
Form must be included with the images, either as a scan or
Peter Rowland, Competition Secretary
Dave Payne atop The Green Lady at Neist (and the rock John Fairley looking back to Camasunary & Glen Sligachan electronically with the images. The member’s Membership Number
Photo: Tony Westcott can be found on the Membership Card. Honorary Keeper of the Photographs, The Alpine Club
was good) Photo: Paul McWhinney
14
Up Close and
would be safer with a man leading the Award (MIA). I spend about a third of expedition in the Greater Ranges. I'd
group. the year working overseas and the rest in also like to get to know the Alps a lot
the UK. Being freelance the work is really better and go to some areas which I
So no real negatives then?
Personal
varied. I work for expedition companies haven't been to before.
There are without a doubt still barriers for like Jagged Globe, with groups of young
women. How our society brings up girls people as well as the military to name a So you would like to do a first ascent?
means that they are not as comfortable few. Last year my overseas work took me I've done five first ascents expeditions.
pushing themselves out of their comfort to Tanzania, Switzerland, Iceland, Russia I climbed four first ascents in South
zones; they are told to be careful more (Elbrus), and Uganda with a couple on Georgia. I've been to eastern Tajikistan
Informal Interview with Alpine Club Member often than boys and put off doing sports. their honeymoon! In the UK I do most twice to attempt the same 6000m+
Becky Coles by Stuart Worsfold It is still less socially acceptable for women of my summer work in North Wales, peak but it remains unclimbed. An
to spend prolonged periods of time away the Peak District and Scotland based in expedition in the Wakhan Corridor,
Do you ski mountaineer as well?
and indulge in activities that are perceived Inverness or the Isle of Skye. In the winter, Afghanistan, saw us summit a mountain
Yes, I really enjoy my skiing, tour and as risky, especially if they are mothers. I rent a place near Glencoe. on the Afghan/Pakistan border which we
mountaineering, but I'm not going to the This all translates to fewer women being So climbing and mountaineering is your thought was a first ascent but it actually
Alps this winter so it's just Scottish skiing involved in climbing especially in the trad. life then? turned out to be climbed. In 2016, Simon
for me. and alpine climbing and mountaineering Verspeak and I climbed a 6000m+ peak,
spectrum. But things are definitely Yes, I'm quite boring really. Lasarmula, in the far west of Nepal that
changing, initiatives such as the women's What are your future climbing plans? we believe was a first ascent. But, yes, I'd
trad. climbing festival and women's I've got a few ideas for first ascents like to do more.
winter skills courses are all getting the
message out there that women do have
the ability to get into the mountains and
climb or mountaineer. From an expedition
The Glacier Trust and EcoHimal in Nepal
I
perspective, when I was starting out, I n November 2017, Alpine Club During an intensive week, we visited garlands and silk scarves; then trumpeted
How did it all start for you with found I had less opportunities compared members Hywel and Ingram Lloyd, 10 mountain-side terraced farms and into a reception through an arch of red
climbing? Did your parents climb as well to my male peers as it wasn't perceived myself and my wife Tina, took the plant nurseries at heights between 900 poinsettias to more garlands, scarves,
or were they just walkers? that I could 'at least carry some of the opportunity of a three week trekking and 2800m and were shown crops of welcome speeches, tea and lunch. This
loads and be a good craic'. But this isn't visit to the remote eastern Nepal district coffee, cardamom, courgettes, hazelnuts, became de rigeur for practically every
I got into the outdoors through walking just a gender thing, it's probably true for
with my parents, but they didn't do any of Solukhumbu to visit climate change oranges, black and Sichuan peppers, house and school we visited, to the point
Who are your female icons? anyone who doesn't fit in to a particular
climbing. Walking up Snowdon would be adaptation projects funded by The pumpkin, squash, tree tomatoes and where we were seriously worried that
Lynne Hill was a real inspiration. image. It led me to organise my own Glacier Trust (TGT), and organised more, adding to the more traditional we must have denuded the region of
an extreme expedition for them. In fact, expeditions which has now turned out
Learning that she was the first person in Nepal by EcoHimal Nepal (EHN). crops of hill rice, millet and maize. TGT marigolds!
I didn't really like walking when I was for the best as I have people asking me if
to climb the Nose free and then climb it We travelled by road from Kathmandu funds have also helped to introduce
small, especially if I could see how far I they can join my trips. My dream would
the following year free in under 24 hours with Dr Morgan Phillips, UK-based co- improved breeds of livestock including
had to walk, so they find what I do now be that one day there was equality in the
really opened my eyes to the possibilities Director of TGT, and Narayan Dhakal, chicken, goats, pigs and buffalo. EHN
quite amusing. to women being pioneers in climbing. I mountains and the need for all women Kathmandu-based Executive Director of with the support of Eco Himal Austria,
What made you join the Alpine Club? met Lynne when she came to Bristol for courses or grants became redundant, but EHN, to visit their adaptation projects has enabled the area to become an open
I joined the AC initially for the the Women's Climbing Symposium 2017. we're not quite there yet. centred around the Agro Forestry defecation free zone, and helped fund
expedition grants, but continued to be I got quite star struck. I learnt about Resource Centre (AFRC) they have green-roofed gender friendly eco-San
a member because of the community of Alison Hargreaves and her achievements established in the mountain community toilets, which now provide compost to
other members. later, not sure why, I guess it was the of Deusa. improve the soil.
books I was exposed too. Her North Faces
Where is your favourite place, or your Narayan administers the wide range of
in a single season blows my mind. Ines
perfect spring day climbing? TGT’s projects throughout Nepal with If you’re looking for a remote, mid-height
Papert is another inspiration, climbing
indefatigable enthusiasm and efficiency. mountain region of Nepal to trek, with
I love ice climbing on the Ben, although the Hurting in full-on Scottish conditions
Local farmer and agricultural technician, high-point views to the Himalayan peaks
the other day when I was freezing doing and her technical new routes in places like
Hari, manages the AFRC outreach of the Ghaurishankar and Sagarmatha
some mixed climbing in the Cairngorms Kyrgyzstan are very impressive. programme, runs training courses and regions, such as Numbur, Kongde, Mera
I was thinking about summer rock Do you feel that women get a fair chance works with the local lead farmers to and even Everest on a clear day some 50
climbing. in the world of climbing? ensure knowledge and good practice miles to the north, plus the opportunity
Do you prefer snow and ice over rock? There's a real energy at the moment for Deusa AFRC was set up by the late spreads throughout Deusa, Waku and to help local people rebuild their lives
women in climbing which is fantastic to Robin Garton, AC member and Founder other neighbouring districts. and economy after the 2015 earthquake
Mostly, but I like the variety. /Director of TGT in 2013 to provide and sustainably adapt to climate change,
see and loads of super talented female What else do you do apart from climbing? Whilst visiting AFRC, we witnessed the
Do you get to the Alps a fair bit? climbers. I've personally benefited from a community base to demonstrate distribution of revenue to 15 farmers we can strongly recommend this area. We
I like to travel, not just to climb. I got
I try to go a couple of times a year, some of the grants for women going on sustainable methods of adapting to from nearly one ton of coffee beans taken would be happy to provide contacts to
into the outdoors because I liked wildlife
usually once to ski and then once in the expeditions like the Alison Chadwick climate change impacts that are already to market in Kathmandu by the AFRC, EHN and local Sherpa guides and porters
- probably the only reason I endured
summer when I'm often working. I am Memorial Grant and Julie Tullis impacting here. Deusa’s mountain-sides up by 200% from the previous year. if you would like to organise your own
those long walks my parents dragged
an International Mountain Leader so my are scoured by increasingly torrential We were greatly impressed by the visit.
Memorial Award. me on - and wildlife and the natural
work is leading treks. It's very civilised monsoon rains and a dry season that entrepreneurial community spirit the If you would like to read more about
So you don’t think it is too bad on the world still interests me. I read more
and is great as it's not too physically is getting longer each year. The AFRC AFRC has inspired. The enthusiasm for the Glacier Trust projects, visit their
whole, not too much of a misogynistic nature writing than mountain literature. I
demanding so I have the energy and provides training to enable farmers education is evident in the homes, schools website at http://theglaciertrust.org/ ; for
society? also have a background in geography and
psyche to go alpine climbing on my days to move from precarious subsistence and health centres we visited, in spite of more information on EcoHimal http://
science which I continue to be involved
off. This year we popped up the Mittellegi I find people in the climbing community farming methods to more resilient and the still basic facilities currently available. ecohimal.org.np/.
in in a number of ways. When I'm not
Ridge on the Eiger, spent the night in the are some of the most open-minded, commercially viable agriculture. The
climbing I enjoy cycling and open water Impressive as the TGT /EHN work was, Tony Westcott
Mönchsjochhütte, then popped over to welcoming people. Any ignorance I've innovations in agro forestry that EHN
swimming. our most memorable part of the visit
climb the Monch the next day, before come across has mainly been from those and TGT are introducing focus on crops Thank you to all of you who bought the
must be the warmth of reception we
heading back to work. In fact, it's a miracle who don't climb. I was once removed Is your work as a mountain leader mainly that can stabilise landslide vulnerable 2017 AC Christmas cards and included
received wherever we went. Walking
I passed my IML as a couple of days before from leading an all-girls school group UK based or all over Europe/worldwide? slopes, retain water in soil for longer your donation to TGT. I hope this article
down from the ridge at Nele towards has given you some insight to the inspiring
the summer assessment I was climbing the going on an expedition in Bolivia because and, through clever intercropping, repel
I hold the Winter ML, International the district of Deusa, we were met by work they are doing and encourage you to
Kuffner Arete on Mont Maudit. the parents thought that their daughters incoming insect pests and plant parasites.
Mountain and Mountaineering Instructor more and more villagers with marigold continue your support in future.
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