February 2018 - Stuart Walmsley
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T R AV EL + L EISU R E
February
2018 ADVENTURE
Risk and Reward
Queenstown has stayed true to its pioneering roots and
there’s still plenty of gold in the region’s thrilling hills.
STORY AND PHOTOGR APHS BY STUART WALMSLEY
Hiking Roys Peak,
an hour from
Queenstown.
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / FEBRUARY 2018 19
/ adventure /
GLOBETROTTERS FIRST CAME to Queenstown operation here in 1989 and Queenstown is also amazing engineer,” explains head pilot
in the 1860s to try and strike it rich on New regarded as the home of jet boating with Ruaidhri De Faoite, an Irishman who has been
Zealand’s goldfields and, while the commodity operators on Lake Wakatipu and the Shotover, in Queenstown for four years. “To say it’s a
may have changed, that pioneering spirit most Kawarau and Dart Rivers. modified Jet Ski is a bit of an understatement; CLOCKWISE FROM
definitely remains. The world’s unofficial Centrally located Vertigo Bikes the controls are taken from small stunt aircraft BELOW: A
adventure capital now hosts a staggering 3.2 (vertigobikes.co.nz) is the place to start any and the cockpit glass is from a fighter jet.” mountain biker
Creatively, this is a place with few limits, an prepares to
million visitors every year from backpackers pedal-powered outing, but I have my eye on a
descend Coronet
to bourgeoisie, combines fast living with rare different type of descent. More familiar with attitude clearly evident at community-focused Peak; Bespoke
beauty, and has stayed true to the boom-or- the parched earth of outback Australia, I am retreat Sherwood Queenstown Kitchen’s colorful
bust culture on which it was founded. captivated by the Lord Of The Rings-like (sherwoodqueenstown.nz; doubles from fruit smoothie
“This town, I love it, it’s amazing, but it’s a landscape of New Zealand’s South Island, NZ$180). The in-room literature asks me to bowl; Sherwood’s
FROM TOP: One of restaurant menu
the Hydro Attack gold rush that never stopped. It was a gold rush and I’m yearning to fly to one of its perilous “Be Here Now” and this request is not hard to makes use of the
“sharks” on Lake that built it, and it’s a gold rush to this day,” looking peaks. honor. Staff often visit on their day off to join hotel’s kitchen
Wakatipu; looking reflects Richard Docherty, the Glaswegian A Canadian couple kindly allow me to the relaxed vibe of the midweek market, work garden.
out over
owner of popular health-food eatery Rehab gatecrash a mountain-top photography lesson/ on their own projects or attend gigs.
Queenstown from
Stratosfare (therehabstory.com; mains from NZ$10) and a picnic with Heli Glenorchy (heliglenorchy.co. The skeleton of the mock-Tudor
Restaurant, at the Queenstown resident of nine years. nz) and Paradise Pictures (paradisepictures. motor inn that preceded Sherwood
top of the Skyline Docherty is indicative of many Queenstown co.nz). “There’s no bad time to visit has been retained, and other parts of
Gondola. “locals,” a rather arbitrary term in this part of Queenstown, especially if you’re a its anatomy repurposed; the walls of
the world. The resort town’s modern-day photographer,” says Laurence Belcher, who the guest rooms are lined with
pioneers are as international as the original runs Paradise Pictures. “All the seasons offer recycled cork panels and ex-Italian
cast of the 19th century and form a something different, the landscape is always army blankets prove perfectly
surprisingly tight-knit community servicing changing. It’s just magic.” serviceable as curtains.
the steady flow of adventurers, selfie-stick Back at a more sensible altitude, I set about Guests are encouraged to roam the
wielding tour groups and holidaying enjoying my Kiwi-styled Mexican lunch at Taco bountiful garden, from which up to
antipodean families. Medic (tacomedic.co.nz; mains from NZ$7) 70 percent of the restaurant’s
The Scandinavian miners who introduced while watching various aquatic activities on ingredients are sourced, Master of
skiing to the region 150 years ago would be Lake Wakatipu. By far the weirdest watercrafts Wine Stephen Wong has created a
delighted to see the snow sport center it has are operated by Hydro Attack (hydroattack. fascinating guide of all-natural
now become, but likely be quite befuddled by co.nz): four semi-submersible “sharks” inspired selections, and a nightly campfire
the recent explosion in mountain biking that by a vessel Kiwi designer Rob Innes saw in a provides the opportunity for guests,
has helped make shoulder seasons a thing of Tintin comic. staff and locals to connect.
the past. “He [Rob] is part mad scientist, part “We’ve had people through here
“It used to be just winter when you saw the thrillseeker; he’ll try his hand at anything, an whose normal accommodation would
casts and ankle injuries, but now it’s all year
around,” laughs Rae Ellis, co-owner of
Bespoke Kitchen (bespokekitchen.co.nz; mains
from NZ$12), named 2016 New Zealand Café of The in-room literature asks
the Year only six months after opening. I find me to ‘Be Here Now’ and this
Bespoke’s sun-drenched garden the perfect
place to sip coffee and watch the constant request is not hard to honor
parade of sightseers, mountain bikers and
other thrillseekers bustle between the center
of town and the now 50-year-old Skyline
Gondola (skyline.co.nz).
The gondola places you atop Bob’s Peak,
and is a great way to orient yourself with the
town’s dramatic setting amid Lake Wakatipu,
The Remarkables and Coronet Peak, New
Zealand’s first commercial ski field. The
December timing of my visit means the
snowboard stayed in storage, but summer
opens up an even more bewildering array of
high-octane activities from river surfing to
heli-biking. New Zealander A.J. Hackett
started the first commercial bungee jumping
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / FEBRUARY 2018 21
/ adventure /
FROM TOP: Polished design at Marketing and events manager Suzy Larsen
QT Queenstown; Yonder is explains Yonder is a clean-living concept from
famous for its specialty coffee Gary Livesey, one of the creators of Queenstown
and diverse menu; stargazing at
Skyline Queenstown.
institution The World Bar (theworldbar.co.nz),
and swapping teapot tipples for turmeric lattes
was something of a necessity.
“He [Gary] was diagnosed with multiple
sclerosis a couple of years ago and a huge
part of dealing with that was changing his
diet—cutting out gluten and dairy—and he
noticed that there wasn’t really anywhere in
Queenstown catering to different dietary
requirements,” Larsen says. Yonder’s menu is
color-coded, denoting whether their dishes are
dairy- or gluten-free, vegan, or all three.
FROM TOP: The
Another delicious discovery I make during dining room at
a day trip to nearby Arrowtown is specialty Bazaar in QT
be a five- or six- star hotel, but the thing that brunch venue The Chop Shop (fb.com/ More ways to play in Queenstown has
made the experience for them was the ability thechopshopfoodmerchants; mains from Queenstown unbeatable views
over Lake
to sit out there and drink a whiskey and talk to NZ$25), a prominent café with rustic décor
Onsen Hot Pools spectacular location. Wakatipu and The
the people that cooked your food and share just like its town. So well preserved are Remarkables; a
This boutique day-spa remarkablespark.com;
stories,” explains co-creator Sam Chapman, Arrowtown’s original miner’s huts and experience includes every Saturday until rainbow and sun-
who made his name overseeing legendary historic main street that some mistake this private, cedar-lined pools April 14. shower over
Wellington establishment Matterhorn. “We picturesque place for a themed village, but that overlook the Shotover Queenstown.
Skyline Stargazing
were surprised by how powerful a simple fire digging a little deeper to find this local haunt River canyon. onsen.co.nz; Learn about the Southern
from NZ$95. Hemisphere’s mesmerizing
and some stumps can be.” will bring you pleasantly back to reality.
Remarkables Market solar system with an
‘All the seasons offer something Unconventional in a completely different
way is newly opened QT Queenstown
Arrowtown is also home to some of New
Zealand’s most expensive real estate and,
A community catch-up, expert atop the historic
different, the landscape is always
featuring crafts, gifts and Skyline Gondola. skyline.
(qthotelsandresorts.com; doubles from NZ$319), ironically, the region’s popularity is one of the fresh produce in a co.nz; tickets from NZ$93.
changing. It’s just magic’ which boasts unmatched in-room views of The
Remarkables in a prime location.
few things holding it back. Ellis of Bespoke
Kitchen relied on local connections to secure
QT’s quirky, playful ethos fits the area’s an eight-bedroom Queenstown rental home in
energetic vibe like a comfy ski glove and is December, just to retain staff who couldn’t find
perfect for the adventurer who likes a bit of accommodation in town.
luxury at the end of their zip line. Matched But for those not looking to put down
with high-end buffet dining experience Bazaar, roots, this is now a remarkable all-seasons
mealtimes stimulate all the senses as the destination. High-quality hotels and cuisine
international mosaic of flavors combines with and any number of ways to activate your
the visual pleasure of changing light on the adrenal gland, all in a community where you
mountains and lake. can still buy a car on the side of the road or
A retro ski theme prevails throughout, safely hitchhike to work.
QT’s creative music director Andrew Lewis Sherwood co-creator Chapman, whose dual
has crafted a suitably upbeat soundtrack and existence as a strategic planner and
I highly recommend calling for ice to mix the communications professional means his
Karven dry gin-based cocktail that begs to be consult often extends beyond the retreat, sums
enjoyed on your balcony upon arrival. up this balancing act: “Resort towns are
Fresh from my own balcony beverage, I interesting beasts. They can either go one way
float down the hill to a see a Brazilian band at and become a cultural doughnut, whereby real
new café/bar Yonder (yonderqt.co.nz, mains life is pushed out to the furthest margins and
from NZ$22), and discover a culinary scene they become the preserve of the few and the
also infused with innovation. As the South- wealthy, or they can really fight to build
American chefs lead the samba, head community and become far more enduring
bartender Phil Cooke talks me through his than a postcard existence. I think that’s the
summer selections featuring homemade citrus choice Queenstown faces and—the
gels and locally foraged bark, elderflower and encouraging thing is—it seems to be pushing
chocolate mint. for the right outcome.”
22 FEBRUARY 2018 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
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