EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL SYNTHETICS DIVISION - CHEMISTRIES FOR PERSONAL CARE PURESYN POLYALPHAOLEFINS (PAO)
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ExxonMobil Chemical
Synthetics Division
Chemistries for Personal Care
PureSyn™ Polyalphaolefins (PAO)
pH Stability of PureSyn™ PAO
High Purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic
hydrocarbon fluids
Do not react with acid or base
Stable across entire pH range
Ideal for formulations containing:
AHA/BHA (Anti-aging products)
Strong Bases (Hair relaxers)
Non-Comedogenic
All of the PureSynTM PAO and Ester products
are non-comedogenic.
Will not clog pores
Also non-irritating
Substitute for petrolatum and other
comedogenic emollients, for example
• isopropyl myristate
• oleyl alcohol
• safflower oil
• othersOil-Free Formulations
PureSyn PAO has a hydrocarbon structure
with some properties similar to mineral oil.
Formulations made with PureSyn PAO can
have an oil-free distinction.
Ingredient list on the formulated product
package would have INCI designation:
Hydrogenated polydecene
Hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers
PolydeceneBroad range of Spreadability PureSynTM PAO and Esters PureSyn products cover the entire range of spreadability. From very fast to slow Formulations can be designed with cascading effects by combining components. May enhance sunscreen performance by providing tailored spreading on skin. Wide range of emollient properties.
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
Reduction (PureSynTM PAO and Esters)
Certain PureSynTM products significantly
reduce TEWL; comparable to petrolatum.
Higher molecular weights provide most
protection
Provide water retention in skin and barrier
protection.
May enhance retention of active
ingredients in upper skin layers.Solubility Profiles Allow Significant Formulation
Flexibility PureSynTM PAO and Esters
Broad spectrum of solubility in a range of
commonly used cosmetic substances.
Including organic sunscreen active ingredients
Solubility parameters ranging from 8.0 to 9.3
May be matched to sunscreen active ingredients
Selected products have silicone compatibility,
especially with dimethicones. May lead to:
improved aesthetics
reduced silicone in formulation
Can be used as carrier fluids and solubilizers.Other Key Personal Care Characteristics PureSynTM PAO and Esters Non-greasy with good skin feel Provide emolliency Possess glossing characteristics May provide water resistance properties Film formation Will not suppress foam like silicones
PolyAlphaOlefins (PAO) Synthetic high performance functional fluids Hydrogenated (saturated) olefin polymers Manufactured by the catalytic oligomerization of linear alphaolefins having 8 or more carbon atoms Wax-free combination of relatively unbranched (compared to mineral oil) molecules of predetermined chain length
PAO Chemistry Linear Oligomerization Hydrogenation Alphaolefins PAO
PAO Chemistry - Oligomerization
H2C CH
C 2H 5
H2C CH
n-C 4H 9
H2C CH
n-C 6H 13 Dimers
H2C CH Trimers
H2C CH 2 n-C 8H 17 Tetramers
H2C CH
Pentamers
Hexamers
n-C 10H 21
Heptamers
H2C CH Octomers
n-C 12H 25 .
CH
.
H2C
.
n-C 14H 30 .
1-C18=, 1-20=, 1-C22=....... .
Ethylene Linear Alphaolefin PolyalphaolefinsPAO Chemistry - Hydrogenation
H H
HydrogenNew PAO Technology
Conventional PureSyn™ PAO New, Patented PureSyn™ PAO
Average Side Chain of 6-7 carbons Average Side Chain of 8 carbonsPureSyn™ PAO Typical Properties Properties Method 2 4 6 Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC D 4052 0.798 0.820 0.827 Brookfield Viscosity @ 25oC, cPs Est. 6 30 50 Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt D 445 1.7 4.1 5.7 @ 40°C, cSt D 445 5.0 18 30 Viscosity Index D 2270 NA 131 134 Pour Point, °C D 97 -66 -63 -54 Flash Point, °C D 92 154 221 243 Color, APHA D 1209 10 10 10
PureSyn™ PAO Typical Properties Properties Method 150 300 Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC D 4052 0.850 0.852 Brookfield Viscosity @ 25oC, cPs Est. 2900 6200 Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt D 445 150 300 @ 40°C, cSt D 445 1,500 3,100 Viscosity Index D 2270 218 241 Pour Point, °C D 97 -33 -27 Flash Point, °C D 92 >265 >265 Color, APHA D 1209 30 30
CTFA INCI Nomenclature PureSyn™ 2 - 6, 150 - 300 = Hydrogenated C6-14 Polyalphaolephins CTFA = Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association INCI = International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient name
Japanese Registration - JSCI Codes Product Japan Code Japan Ingredient Name PureSyn™ 2 N/A N/A PureSyn 4 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer PureSyn 6 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer PureSyn 100 – 300 N/A N/A
PureSyn™ PAO Benefits Can be variously characterized as: High purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids Wide viscosity range of products Stable in high and low pH systems Non-oily, Non-greasy Broad spreadability range Non-comedogenic Bright and clear Non-irritating
PureSyn™ PAO Functions May be well-suited for use as: Emollients/Lubricants Water resistant agents Occlusive barrier for moisturization Film formers Stable carrier fluids Solubilizers Glossing Agents
PureSyn™ PAO
Personal Care Formulations
Can be readily incorporated into:
Cosmetics Hair Relaxers
AHA/BHA Products Antiperspirant/
Lotions and Creams Deodorants
Sunscreens Gels
Moisturizers Water-in Oil
EmulsionsAdditional PureSyn™ PAO Properties Solubilities Solubility Parameters Lin Water solubilization Carbomer dispersion Surface tension Refractive Index HLB (Required) values
Definition of Solubility Parameter • The solubility parameter is an indicator of the solubility characteristics of one material with another. • It is the square root of the cohesive energy density (cal/cc)0.5. This parameter gives an accurate estimation of the interaction energies in many diverse systems. • It can be used to predict the solubility interactions of cosmetic materials in formulated products. • The solubility parameter of a particular material can be directly measured by a variety of methods or it can be calculated • The parameter can be calculated by adding up the component parts and then used to predict possible uses, probable substitutions and potential problem interactions. • A general guideline is that if the solubility parameters for two or more materials are within +/- 1.5 (cal/cc)0.5, they are miscible.
PureSyn™ PAO - Solubility Parameters:
Fedors Correlation
Product Solubility Parameter
(cal/cc)0.5
PureSyn 2 7.99
PureSyn 4 8.09
PureSyn 6 8.14
PureSyn 150 8.38
PureSyn 300 8.38PureSyn™ PAO
Surface Tension Measurements
Product Dynes/cm (24° C)
PureSyn 2 28.0
PureSyn 4 29.1
PureSyn 6 29.8
PureSyn 150 30.7
PureSyn 300 30.4
Measurement Procedure;
PureSyn 2 - 100; Wilhelmy Plate Method
PureSyn 150 - 3000; Spinning Drop MethodPureSyn™ PAO Refractive Indices
Product @ 25oC
PureSyn 2 1.4418
PureSyn 4 1.4535
PureSyn 6 1.4565
PureSyn 150 1.4695
PureSyn 300 1.4707
Mineral Oils 1.4670-1.4900PureSyn™ PAO Potential Attributes in Personal Care Applications • Provide a broad range of spreadability values that may be used to customize skin feel. • Stable over a broad pH range for easy formulation of acidic alpha- and beta- hydroxy acid-containing creams as well as very high pH hair relaxers. • Compatible with a wide range of personal care ingredients including certain sunscreen active ingredients and silicones. • Can be readily incorporated into a broad range of skin and hair care formulations. • Provide barrier protection (high molecular weight/ high viscosity PAO) in skin care applications by significantly reducing transepidermal water loss.
PureSyn™ PAO (2-6) ExxonMobil PureSyn polyalphaolefins (PAO) are a unique class of premium fluids whose features set them apart from other hydrocarbon fluids such as mineral oils, petrolatum and polybutene. PureSyn PAO are bright and clear, high purity, hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids that can be variously characterized as: Non-comedogenic Non-irritating Odorless Stable in high and low pH systems When combined with other personal care ingredients, PureSyn PAO may impart a non-greasy or non-oily feel.
Antiperspirant Stick with PureSyn™ 3E20
Phase Ingredient INCI Designation Wt%
A DC 245 Fluid Cyclomethicone 40.25
A Hansicone Ultrabee Dimethiconol Beeswax 5.00
A PureSyn 3E20 Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate 5.00
A Stearyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol 18.00
A Crodafos CES Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate 0.50
(and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate
A Peg 6000 Distearate PEG-150 Distearate 2.00
A Myrj 59 PEG-100 Stearate 2.00
A Synchrowax Erl-C C 18-36 Acid Glycol Ester 1.00
B Cabosil M-5 Silica 0.75
B Reach Azp 908 Suf Aluminum Zirconium, Tetrachlorohydrex GLY 24.00
C TALC 127 WC&D (Talc) Talc 1.00
D Fragrance MF 8038 Fragrance 0.50
100.00
Blending Procedure
1. Heat ingredients of phase A to 80°C
2. Stop heating and add phase B
3. Homomix while allowing to cool
4. Add remaining phases at 60°C
5. Pour at 55°C to 60°CAnhydrous Antiperspirant Roll-On with
PureSyn™ 6
This anhydrous suspension roll-on antiperspirant applies smoothly to the skin.
It is designed to leave a smooth talc-like feel
Phase Ingredient INCI Designation Wt%
A DC 345 Fluid Cyclomethicone 33.7
A Bentone Gel VS-5 PC Cylclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (and)
20 Propylene C
B PureSyn 6 Hydrogenated Polydecene 20
C REZAL 36GP Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlohydex-Gly 20
C TALC 338 Talc 2
D DC193 Surfactant Dimethicone Copolyol 4
D Fragrance Fragrance 0.3
Total 100
Blending Procedure
1. Mix phase A using the Silverson at 3000 rpm with large head (approx. 3 mins.)
2. Add phase B & C
3. Mix phase D together and add to batch
4. Mix on Silverson until uniformYou can also read
