Expedition travel aboard the schooner Passing Cloud - 2020 Edition - Outer Shores Expeditions
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
Expedition travel aboard the schooner Passing Cloud 2020 Edition 2020 Expedition Dates Welcome Message from A Look Inside the and Destinations Outer Shores President Schooner Passing Cloud
It was an experience not to be rushed, but rather to be savoured moment by moment. Join us aboard the schooner Passing Cloud as we explore the wilderness, wildlife, and indigenous cultures of Canada’s Pacific Coast. You’ll leave this journey rested and relaxed, inspired, conscious of vulnerable species and delicate ecosystems, and filled with wonderful memories and personal experiences from this remarkable corner of the world. Contents 3 Outer Shores Expeditions 4 Welcome Message from our President 5 Schooner Passing Cloud 7 2020 Expeditions 8 Pacific Rim National Park Reserve 13 Great Bear Rainforest – Spring “Seldom in life can we claim to have the 18 Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve ‘perfect experience.’ Passing Cloud and her captain and crew have made that 25 Great Bear Rainforest – Fall possible! Thank you for all you do to make 29 Great Bear Photography Tour this incredible part of the world accessible. A dream come true!” 34 Southern Gulf Islands 39 Contact - Louisa, Outer Shores Traveller
Outer Shores Expeditions We are a small-ship, niche adventure travel company operating wildlife, wilderness, and cultural expeditions throughout Canada’s gorgeous Pacific coast, aboard our classic wooden expedition sailing vessel, the Passing Cloud. The best comparison might be to think of us as a ship-based version of an African wildlife safari. We combine pristine wilderness, amazing wildlife, luxurious accommodation, exceptional service, chef-prepared gourmet meals, expert guides, freedom from roads and routes most travelled, and the enticing adventure of never knowing what’s around the next corner. But instead of the Serengeti, Canada’s wild Pacific Coast is a world where humpback whales sing, socialize, and cast bubble nets to capture schools of herring; family groups of killer whales follow massive populations of migrating salmon as they move into glacier- scoured fiords and estuaries; grizzly bears and black bears, including the rare white Spirit Bear, roam wild throughout the Great Bear Rainforest, as they have for millennia; and where indigenous First Nation cultures have been enmeshed in this rich ecological tapestry for more than 15,000 years.
A Welcome Message from Outer Shores Russell has spent his life and career as a marine ecologist and mariner Expeditions President, Russell Markel studying, exploring, and sailing the B.C. coast. Founding Outer Shores is the realization of his dream Dear Outer Shores Traveller, to bring together his experience, It’s my distinct pleasure to invite you aboard our classic wooden education, and passions to create schooner, the Passing Cloud, to explore, discover, and experience an organization that fosters first-hand some of the most biodiverse regions and ancient Indigenous environmental education and cultures on the Planet, here on Canada’s Pacific Coast. stewardship. We are excited to begin our 2020 expedition season by returning to the west coast of Vancouver Island, to explore Barkley Sound and Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Notably, we’re starting earlier than ever this year in hopes of witnessing one of the great ecological events of the BC coast –spawning Pacific herring and the abundance of wildlife they attract. New to our expeditions there this year will be visiting the ancient Huu-ay-aht village and fortress site known as “Kiixin”. Upon leaving Pacific Rim in late April, we’ll begin our annual journey north to the Great Bear Rainforest. This year we’ve included a unique opportunity for you to join us on our “Spring Migration” from the Salish Sea to the Great Bear Rainforest. We’ll spend the next month in the Great Bear enjoying long warm days, exploding wildflowers, and grizzly bears grazing in coastal estuaries. In late May, the Outer Shores Crew will sail the Passing Cloud approximately 175 km west to the Haida Gwaii archipelago, where we’ll spend the next three months in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site. We are profoundly fortunate to be able to spend so much time exploring and sharing with our guests this globally significant protected area. In mid-August we’ll return to the Great Bear Rainforest, timed not only with the return of wild Pacific salmon to their spawning streams, and the bears and other wildlife that follow, but also to witness the remarkable congregations of whales in this region. Humpback whales employing bubble-net feeding is a truly unforgettable experience! Finally, we are very excited to announce that we’ve recently been granted access to visit Láiq (Mussel Inlet) Special Management Area, located in Kitasoo/Xai’xais First Nation Territory. Outer Shores will be one of just seven commercial operators that will be able to visit this highly sensitive area that offers some of the most remarkable grizzly bear viewing on the BC coast. Thank you for travelling with Outer Shores. We look forward to welcoming many new and returning guests aboard the Passing Cloud in 2020, and sharing untold adventures exploring and experiencing Canada’s Pacific Coast. Captain Russell Markel, PhD Founder and President, Outer Shores Expeditions
Schooner, Passing Cloud Comfort, Safety, & Sailing Ability Our expedition vessel is the beautiful 70’ (21 m) classic wooden schooner, Passing Cloud. This iconic vessel has a rich history on the B.C. Coast, renowned for her elegant design and exceptional sailing abilities. Passing Cloud was designed by William Roué, who also designed the legendary Canadian schooner, Bluenose, featured on the back of every Canadian dime. Built to sail around the world, Passing Cloud is an ideal vessel for exploring and engaging with the nature and cultures of the B.C. Coast.
The schooner Passing Cloud was launched in 1974 in Victoria B.C., and features three private guest cabins, a beautifully redesigned main salon, and traditional wheelhouse. The three forward staterooms each have two spacious single berths (beds) complete with fluffy duvets and wool blankets, a private vanity with sink, mirror, hot and cold running water, a skylight or deck prism, brass reading lamps, drawers, and a hanging locker for storage. A spacious common head and shower are accessible from the main salon. Passing Cloud also features sea kayaks and an inflatable skiff to help us explore the shorelines, forests, bays and inlets of the BC coast. Passing Cloud is a Transport Canada certified passenger vessel and meets the highest standards of safety and construction. She is fully equipped with modern safety and navigation equipment including radar, GPS, VHF radios, EPIRB, and digital chart plotter and satellite telephone.
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve 5-days navigating more than 300 islands and islets in an astonishingly rich cultural and wilderness environment With exploration of ancient cultures and coastal rainforests 2020 Edition Discover Encounter Learn The Nuu-chah-nulth cultural Black bears, grey About the fascinating heritage of Barkley Sound whales, sea otters, archaeological and the Broken Group and orca research in this region Islands
Pacific Rim National Park Vancouver Island’s West Coast Our expeditions to the west coast of Vancouver Island explore and experience the wildlife, wilderness and rich Nuu-chah-nulth cultural heritage of Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands, an archipelago of more than 300 islands and islets long considered the jewel of the Pacific Rim National Park.
At a Glance Spring is a spectacular time to discover the many wonders of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Aboard the Schooner Passing Cloud and through shore walks, zodiac and kayak excursions, we’ll explore the vast diversity of the Broken Group’s many islands, beaches, shores, old-growth rainforests, rocky intertidal zones, kelp forest communities, estuaries and fjords of this incredible region, while partnering with local Nuu- Chah-Nulth Nations, researchers and historians to learn about its ancient and intact cultural heritage. We’ll arrive to the region earlier in season in hopes to catch a glimpse of the herring spawn phenomenon which attracts a feeding-frenzy of species, including emerging black bears from hibernation, bald eagles and other birds of prey, whales, seals, sea lions, and an incredible array of seabirds. We’ll also hope to catch the tail end of one of the longest migrations of any mammal – the grey whale, that pass through these waters from mid-March to early May. 5-days / 4-nights 2020 departures: April 1, 6, 12, 18 Price per person: $2,800 CAD Departs from / Returns to: Ucluelet What’s Included? All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees, use of onboard gear and resources, rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
“We continue to be in awe of all Sample Itinerary: of the experiences you devise for these trips, from the big seascapes Pacific Rim National Park Reserve with rainbows, whales, and native villages, and ancient fish weirs, to life Day Ucluelet Aquarium, Embark the in small coastal communities. We 1 Passing Cloud love all of it, the camaraderie, superb Our expedition to Pacific Rim National Park food, and sailing at 8.9 knots!” begins with a 10:00 AM tour of the award-winning Ucluelet Aquarium, where we’ll learn about the amazing marine life that inhabits the waters of - Sharon and Hans, Outer Shores’ Travellers Barkley and Clayoquot Sounds. Almost all the specimens are collected from the nearby waters and seasonally released back into the ocean. We’ll meet with the curator to find out more about the Aquarium’s work in progress. Afterwards we’ll board the schooner Passing Cloud in time for lunch, settle into our accommodations, and set sail for Barkley Sound. As we sail through Macoah Passage we’ll be on the lookout for spawning herring and the grey whales, seabirds, and sea lions that congregate here to feast on this ecological bonanza. Tonight, we’ll anchor in a small group of islands just outside the National Park Reserve where we have a good chance of spotting coastal black bears. We’ll also set our prawn and crab traps for a taste of fresh local seafood. Day Broken Group Islands, Dodd- 2 Willis-Turtle Lagoon This morning we’ll drift our inflatable boat into a small nearby estuary and salmon stream. We’ll explore the forest and look for the black bears that come here in the spring to feed on grasses and shellfish. This is also a great time of year to watch for migrating waterfowl and shorebirds. Back aboard the ship, we’ll enjoy lunch as we travel into the Broken Group Islands Unit of Pacific Rim. We’ll drop anchor in a natural lagoon between Dodd, Willis, and Turtle Islands and take the opportunity to sea kayak, zodiac tour, and shore walk, exploring the old growth forest and white-sand beaches found here. We’ll view and discuss the deep shell middens, stone fish traps and ancient clam gardens we encounter here, built by the Tseshaht First Nation over the thousands of years they’ve inhabited this region.
Day Wouver, Benson, and Dicebox 4 Islands, Great Tidepool This morning we’ll sail back to the Broken Group Islands, keeping a close lookout for the humpback and grey whales, harbour porpoises, and occasionally orcas that frequent these waters. We’re also hoping to encounter some of the newest arrivals to Barkley Sound, the sea otter population that is currently re-colonizing this region. We’ll discuss how these “ecosystem engineers” are rapidly transforming kelp forest and fish communities throughout the BC coast. We’ll explore a kelp forest via our inflatable boat and sea kayaks and go ashore on Wouwer Island to examine ancient stone fish traps at the “Great Tidepool” before sailing past an outstanding sea lion haul-out site later in the day. After lunch we’ll travel to Benson Island to tour the ancient village site of “C’isaa”, birthplace of the Tseshaht First Nation, that was occupied for at least 5000 years. Here we will see the large shell middens that are the result of thousands of years of marine subsistence at this site. Later this morning we’ll cruise past the tiny ancient “fortress island” of Dicebox Island and learn about archaeological research conducted here. Day Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre, 3 Deer Group Islands An early morning beach walk kicks-off Day 3, as we take advantage of the low tide to explore the world of diverse creatures like giant green anemones, lemon nudibranchs, bat stars, giant gumboot chitons, frilled dog whelks, peanut worms, purple encrusting sponges and iridescent seaweeds. We follow up our morning of discovery with a hot breakfast, fresh coffee, and tea as we prepare to heave anchor and sail across Imperial Eagle Channel to the historic fishing community of Bamfield. Here we’ll stroll the boardwalk and visit the Bamfield Marine Sciences Day Disembark at Ucluelet Centre. We’ll go ashore for a guided tour of the Kiixin 5 Village and Fortress National Historic Site of Canada, the only known remaining traditional village site Looking to squeeze every last drop out of this in Southwestern BC. We’ll discover hose deposits, expedition, we will take a final morning shore walk or Midden beachesm, and ancient poles telling the zodiac excursion before heaving anchor and heading story of a once-bustling community of the Huu-ay- back to Ucluelet, all the while keeping our eyes peeled aht people. In the past, the Huu-ay-aht drew all for more sea otters, whales and seabirds as we they required from the wilderness and wildlife of this return to port to say our reluctant farewells prior to exceptionally productive environment. We’ll anchor for disembarkation. the night in the Deer Group Islands.
Spring in British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest 8-days exploring the outer islands, observing recovering sea otter populations, and spring bears as they emerge from hibernation Islands, Otters, Bears, and Wolves 2020 Edition Explore Encounter Learn The islands, beaches, and Wildlife in its most natural How sea otters are ancient forests of marine and terrestrial transforming the BC Coast the Great Bear habitats
Spring in British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest Islands, Otters, Bears, and Wolves The Great Bear Rainforest is one of the largest intact coastal temperate forests in the world. Extending from northern Vancouver Island to Alaska, and covering more than 64,000km2 (24,000mi2), this area is home to spectacular wildlife including whales and dolphins, bears and wolves, sea lions and sea otters. This 8-day expedition aboard our classic schooner, the Passing Cloud, gives us the chance to explore this beautiful ecosystem and learn how it depends so critically on wild Pacific salmon.
At a Glance Our Spring expeditions through the Great Bear Rainforest are dedicated to exploring, experiencing, and learning about the wildlife, ecosystems, and cultures of this incredibly special corner of the Planet. Spring is a wonderfully exciting time of year to be here, with coastal plants and colourful wildflowers in full bloom, bears grazing in estuaries, and whales returning to nearshore waters. For our first 8-day/7-night itinerary, we start in the Nuxalk First Nation community of Bella Coola and end in the Heiltsuk First Nation community of Bella Bella. The following departures start and end in Bella Bella. Our itinerary includes the Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy, Hakai Institute Calvert Island Field Station, and a focus on sea otters, kelp forests, bears, wolves, and old-growth rainforests. 8-days / 7-nights 2020 departures: May 6, 14, 22 Price per person: $5,295 CAD Departs from/Return to: Bella Coola, BC (May 6-13) Departs from/Returns to: Bella Bella, B.C. (May 14-21, May 22-29) What’s Included? All meals, accommodation, transportation, First Nation Conservation and Stewardship fees, and use of onboard gear and resources including rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
Sample Itinerary: “Where to begin with an experience Spring in British Columbia’s awash with so many remarkable memories...This trip connects me to Great Bear Rainforest myself and to a place that resonates Day deeply. Thank you, Russ and all!” 1 Our expedition begins in the heart of Canada’s Great - Frances, Outer Shores’ Traveller Bear Rainforest, the prime habitat for grizzly bears, black bears, and wolves. As we explore a coastal estuary system, always on the lookout for these top predators, our Expedition Specialist will teach us about the biology, ecology, and conservation of the bears and wolves of this complex rainforest ecosystem. We’ll learn how bears, wolves, and other consumers supercharge ancient rainforests by moving salmon and herring into these coastal jungles. We spend most of today exploring forests, rivers, estuaries, and viewing the multitude of wildlife that we’ll inevitably encounter. Day 2 We’ll continue our voyage through the glacier-carved fjords etched into the mainland coast, as we enjoy the dramatic snow-capped peaks surrounding us. We’ll go ashore and enjoy the brilliantly coloured wildflowers in bloom this time of year. We’re always on the lookout for the coastal grizzlies that come here to graze on grasses, sedges, rice root, and other plants. This afternoon we’ll explore a river system and learn about the ancient stone fish traps that can be found throughout this region. We’ll have time for kayaking and more shore exploring late this afternoon at our overnight anchorage. Day 3 Today we’ll visit the Hakai Institute Calvert Island Field Station, situated in the Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy, the largest marine conservancy on the BC Coast. After we learn about some of the incredible research being conducted here, we’ll explore spectacular “West Beach”, and hike the boardwalk trail through coastal rainforest and bog up to the lookout for a stunning view of the area.
Day 4 This morning we’ll visit the McNaughton Group, a small group of islets studded with white-sand beaches and surrounded by kelp forests, and home to sea otters! We’ll spend the morning exploring this beautiful place and learning about how sea otters are transforming the undersea ecosystems of this region. This afternoon we’ll go sailing and/or break out the kayaks for more exploring in this area. Our overnight anchorage is a short distance north in the McMullin Group Islands. Day 5 Weather permitting, we’ll sail across Queen’s Sound this morning to the Goose Group Islands and explore the gorgeous white-sand beaches of this magical place. We’ll be on the lookout for humpback whales and other marine mammals as we cross the sound. Remarkably, wolves are occasionally sighted on this small group of outer coast islands. Day 7 We start our day on dawn patrol before breakfast, for an inflatable boat excursion into a nearby estuary to watch and listen as the morning sun spreads across this ancient place. Later, we’ll see ancient pictographs, highlighting for us the fact that the indigenous Heiltsuk people have lived here for more than 13,000 years. We’ll discuss the Heiltsuk’s deep history and close connections with all the places and ecosystems we have visited over the past week. Tonight, we’ll reflect on all our experiences over the past week here in the Great Bear Rainforest, and give thanks to those who have worked so hard to protect it. Day 6 Day 8 This morning we’re on the lookout for marine wild- life sightings - such as humpback whales, sea otters, As we travel the short distance to Bella Bella this elephant seals, and killer whales. We’re on route to morning we hope for any last minute wildlife Stryker Island where we’ll go on an inflatable boat sightings. Upon arrival, we say farewell to our excursion and look for the sea otters that are returning shipmates and new friends before disembarking to this area. We’ll anchor in a scenic protected cove for and heading to the Bella Bella Airport for flights to the evening and enjoy a beautiful sunset on the outer Vancouver and beyond. islands.
Haida Gwaii Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, & Haida Heritage Site 2020 Edition 9-days exploring the remote island archipelago often described as the “Canadian Galapagos.” Discover Encounter Learn Ecosystems, wildlife, and the Puffins, albatrosses, About the rich cultural ancient Haida village sites sunfish, jellyfish, orcas heritage of the indigenous of Gwaii Haanas and humpback whales Haida Nation
Haida Gwaii Archipelago Islands at the Edge Haida Gwaii (“Islands of the People” in the Haida language) is a remote island archipelago located approximately 100 km off the northwest coast of British Columbia. The “Galapagos of the North” is a world where giant spruce and cedar trees tower over salmon streams, and kelp forests connect the land to the sea. An ecological hotspot, the unparalleled diversity of marine life here includes everything from puffins to albatrosses, sunfish to jellyfish, and killer whales to humpback whales. Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site (or simply “Gwaii Haanas”) protects the ecological and cultural treasures of this globally significant region from seafloor to mountain-top.
At a Glance Our 8-night expedition through Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site is dedicated to exploring the ecosystems and wildlife of this remote island archipelago and learning about the cultural heritage of the Indigenous Haida people who have lived here for more than 14,000 years. Throughout this expedition we’ll explore ancient rainforests, white-sand beaches, rocky shores, coastal estuaries, and encounter stunning terrestrial and marine wildlife. Gwaii Haanas protects this globally unique ecosystem and preserves the cultural legacy of the Haida Nation. 9-days / 8-nights 2020 Departures: June 9, 17, 26, July 5, 13, 21, 29, August 6 Price per person: $6,495 CAD Departs from/Returns to: Sandspit, BC What’s Included? First night accommodation in Skidegate, Traditional Haida Feast, Haida Gwaii Museum private tour, all meals, accommodation, transportation, National Parks fees, guiding and interpretive services, and use of all onboard gear and resources. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition getting to/from Haida Gwaii, crew gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
Sample Itinerary: Gwaii Haanas National “Visiting Gwaii Haanas with Park Reserve the Passing Cloud crew added significantly to our appreciation A distinct feature of all our expeditions is that we for not only the beauty and wildlife have no fixed itineraries. Instead, our days are of this remote spot, but also for structured by the weather, tides, and wildlife we Haida culture. The Captain is encounter, the interests of our guests, and expertise more than a captain, and the of our crew. same can be said for the first mate, chef and naturalist who were aboard. Not only did we come away from this experience with a sense of awe, but with very satisfied bellies that were fed with healthy, sustainable, locally sourced and wonderfully-prepared foods. We couldn’t have asked for a better experience.” – Ellen, Outer Shores’ Traveller Day 1 Our Gwaii Haanas expedition officially begins this morning when you arrive at the Sandpit Regional Airport. You’ll be transported from Sandspit via shuttle and ferry to Skidegate, where you’ll check into your overnight accommodation(included). We’ll meet for the first time as a group for lunch at the Haida Heritage Centre. After lunch we’ll enjoy a private tour of the Haida Gwaii Museum and immersive introduction to the cultural history of Haida Gwaii. Tonight, we’ll be treated to a traditional Haida feast at Keenawai’s Kitchen in Skidegate. Day 2 After breakfast this morning we’ll travel via a short ferry rise to Moresby Island and by land (`1 hour by logging road) by land to reach the schooner, Passing Cloud. After meeting the crew, settling into accommodations, and our safety briefing, we set sail for the ancient village of K’uuna Llnagaay (Skedans). Haida Watchmen will guide us through the cultural history of this ancient Haida village and introduce us to mortuary and memorial poles. After lunch, we’ll continue our voyage south to the village of T’aanuu Llnagaay (Tanu) and tour the remaining house depressions from this once- bustling community that was a gathering place for many villages. We’ll enjoy a late afternoon sail before anchoring in a secluded wilderness inlet with time to reflect on our day and enjoy our first dinner aboard.
Day Day 3 6 Today, weather permitting we hope to sail a few miles This morning we’ll make sure we’re up early to from shore as we travel southward towards Kunghit Island, catch low tide and explore the incredible marine traditional territory of the Kunghit Haida. This offshore biodiversity of world-famous Burnaby Narrows. Using area known as the pelagic zone is the perfect place to our kayaks and inflatable skiff, we follow one of our search for marine wildlife such as pelagic seabirds, sharks, crew members in snorkeling gear to check-out giant ocean sunfish, Pacific white-sided dolphins, and humpback predatory sunflower stars, multi-coloured bat stars, and fin whales. We’ll seek out our favourite spots on deck massive moon snails, decorator crabs, nudibranchs with a book or a camera and enjoy the passing breeze. (sea slugs), and more. After spending the afternoon This afternoon we’ll explore the beaches, tide pools, and sailing in Juan Perez Sound we’ll enjoy a soak in the hot specular vistas of the Gordon Islands and learn about kelp springs and visit with the Haida Watchman at Gandll forest ecosystems and the vast food web that depends on K’in Gwaay.yaay. them. This is also a wonderful place to explore by sea kayak or zodiac. Day 7 This morning we’ll explore a moss-laden coastal rainforest dominated by massive Western Red cedar and Sitka spruce trees. In a small nearby estuary and river system we’ll also examine and discuss the remnants of wooden-stake fish weirs dating from more than a thousand years ago. We’ll contemplate the interconnectedness of salmon, bears, coastal rainforests, and people. After lunch today, we’ll hike a short distance to an entirely different ecosystem, a coastal bog with bonsai-like pine and cedar trees and carnivorous plants. Day 4 Today we visit the ancient village of SGang Gwaay. This village was inhabited until approximately 1880, and in 1981 was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site Day in recognition of its globally significant cultural heritage. Here we’ll see the remains of massive long houses, and a 8 stunning grove of standing mortuary and memorial poles. This morning we’re up early to explore the shoreline We’ll enjoy a guided tour of the village by Haida Watchman at low tide in search of ancient stone fish traps and and immerse ourselves in traditional Haida social systems intertidal creatures. After lunch, we’ll continue on and way of life. This afternoon we’ll have time to reflect on to Hlk’yah GaawGa (Windy Bay), where we’ll walk our SGaang Gwaay visit as we enjoy some quiet time beach through the old-growth forest of massive cedar and walking, sea kayaking, or sitting among ancient spruce or spruce trees that ultimately led to the creation of Gwaii cedar trees. Haanas. The Haida Watchman here will share with us Day the story of Gwaii Haanas as told by the Legacy Pole. We cap off our day by enjoying a late afternoon sail 5 towards Cumshewa Inlet before dinner. Make sure to keep a sharp lookout for the mammal-eating killer Today we hope to visit Cape St. James at the whales that frequent this area. This evening, our last southernmost extremity of the Haida Gwaii Archipelago. night aboard Passing Cloud, we’ll share our highlights With ocean currents meeting from the east and west, this and reflect on all that we’ve experienced and learned area is alive with marine life, including tufted and horned over the past week. puffins, and other sea birds. This region is also home to one of our favorite white-sand beaches on the BC coast, Day the perfect place for an afternoon of exploring, relaxing, and strolling barefoot along the shore. Later, we’ll sail 9 past a sea lion rookery and learn about the ecology After breakfast this morning, we’ll say farewell to the and conservation of these formidable creatures. This Passing Cloud and crew before boarding our shuttle afternoon we begin the northward leg of our journey. back to Sandspit from Moresby Camp where our expedition officially comes to an end.
British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest - Fall 2020 Edition 9-days exploring the largest intact coastal temperate rainforest in the world. Discover Encounter Learn Abundant wildlife, and ancient Iconic bears, whales, and How wild Pacific salmon forest ecosystems coastal wolves define the ecosystem
British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest Salmon, Bears, Whales, and Wolves Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest is the largest remaining intact coastal temperate forest in the world. Extending from Northern Vancouver Island to Alaska and covering more than 64,000 km2 (24,000 mi2), this globally unique region is home to spectacular wildlife including grizzly bears, coastal wolves, whales, dolphins, seals, sea lions, sea otters, and the iconic white Spirit bear. Our 9-day expedition aboard the classic schooner, Passing Cloud, is dedicated to exploring, experiencing, and learning about the wildlife, ecosystems, old-growth forests, and ancient indigenous cultures of the Great Bear.
At a Glance Our 9-day expedition through the Great Bear Rainforest departs from and returns to the Heiltsuk First Nations community of Bella Bella. Our journey will cover approximately 300 nautical miles (550 kilometers) as we circumnavigate Princess Royal Island, home to the rare white Kermode, or Spirit bear. As we travel through the traditional territories of the Heiltsuk, Kitasoo/ Xai’xais, and Gitga’at First Nations, we’ll explore glacier-scoured inlets and fjords, coastal estuaries, ancient rainforests, and remote outer coast island ecosystems. 9-days / 8-nights 2020 departures: Aug 18, 26, Sep 4, 13, 22, *Oct 1 *Photography Tour Price per person: $6,495 CAD Departs from / Returns to: Bella Bella. B.C. What’s Included? All meals, accommodation, transportation, guided and interpretive excursions, First Nation Conservation and Stewardship fees, and use of all onboard gear and resources. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, crew gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
Sample Itinerary: British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest - Fall A distinct and exciting feature of all our expeditions is that we have no fixed itineraries. Instead, our days are structured by the weather, tides, and wildlife we encounter, and the interests of our guests and xpertise of our crew. The following sample itinerary is simply intended to describe the places, activities, wildlife, and adventures that are typical of our Great Bear Rainforest expeditions. Day 1 Our expedition begins in the Heiltsuk First Nation community of Bella Bella, a short flight from Vancouver International Airport. Upon boarding the schooner Passing Cloud, meeting the crew, and settling into accommodations, we’ll set sail and begin our journey north into the heart of the largest intact coastal temperate rainforest on earth. As we enter the Seaforth Channel we’ll be on the lookout for our first wildlife sightings - humpback whales, sea otters, elephant seals, and even killer whales. Later in the afternoon, we’ll anchor in a small coastal estuary and go ashore for our first glimpse of temperate rainforest ecosystems and wild Pacific salmon returning to spawn. Day 2 This morning our northward journey continues and takes us into Fjordland Recreation Area, a spectacular region of dramatic glacier-carved inlets and cascading waterfalls. We’ll anchor in Kynoch Inlet and spend the afternoon exploring Culpepper Lagoon aboard our inflatable skiff in search of bears, wolves, and other wildlife. This evening our Expedition Specialist will tell us about how the Great Bear Rainforest came to be protected and introduce us to the remarkable life cycles “It’s virtually impossible to find the and ecological importance of Pacific salmon. adequate words to express my Day gratitude and wonder for such a 3 magical week. The fact that such We’re up early for an excursion into Kynoch Inlet natural beauty, such isolated estuary. The abundant populations of salmon here wilderness, still exists gives me make it an excellent place to view bears, wolves, eagles, and other predators and scavengers that have come hope for our world. “ here to feast on salmon. After breakfast we’ll travel west and north, always on the lookout for marine wildlife, particularly the humpback whales that are - Megan , Outer Shores Traveller returning to this region in great numbers. We’ll travel through Princess Royal Channel en route to Khutze Inlet, renowned for its waterfalls, snow-capped mountain peaks, and wildlife. We’ll use our inflatable boat to explore this expansive coastal estuary ecosystem which provides excellent habitat for spawning salmon, black bears, grizzly bears, wolves, and waterfowl.
Day Day 4 7 Khutze Inlet supports excellent habitat for grizzly bears, so This morning we’ll visit a beautiful salmon-bearing we’ll spend a large part of today viewing, photographing, river and spend time exploring the ecological and and learning about these iconic apex consumers. Most of cultural connections between salmon, bears, coastal our viewing will be conducted from our inflatable skiff, or rainforests, and indigenous cultures. This is an we may find a high spot on shore to sit, wait, and watch excellent morning for bear-viewing, sea kayaking, from a respectful distance. And don’t worry, your crew are and photographing ancient forests. This afternoon highly experienced and certified bear-viewing guides! Back we hope to show you examples of ancient stone fish aboard the Passing Cloud we’ll have lunch underway as traps that were built millennia ago by the indigenous we continue our journey north. We’re on high alert today First Nations of this region to support their once large after receiving a report of humpback whales engaged in populations and 14,000-year-old cultures. “bubble-net” feeding in the area. After we make a short visit at the historic abandoned community of Butedale we anchor for the night in near-by Klekane Inlet. Day 5 We’re underway early this morning as we transit MacKay Reach and round the northern end of Princess Royal Island. The breeze is just right so we set all sail and savior the peacefulness of travelling under sail-power alone. As we Day enter Whale Channel, we begin to encounter the large 8 number of humpback whales, and increasingly, fin whales This morning we’ll round the southern end of Princess that congregate in this region during the late summer and Royal Island via Myers Narrows and visit the Kitasoo/ fall. We’ll spend time viewing and photographing these Xai’xais First Nation community of Klemtu. We’ll exciting marine mammals, and our Expedition Specialist will be welcomed to this remote village with a guided help us to interpret the behaviours we are witnessing and tour of their traditional Big House, and we’ll learn use our underwater hydrophone to listen to their songs and about the deep history of this indigenous nation feeding calls. Our overnight anchorage is in Cameron Cove, and their present-day initiatives to protect their on Princess Royal Island. culture, community, environment, and economy. This afternoon as our journey takes us south and east towards Bella Bella, we’ll enjoy sailing and wildlife viewing as we weave our way through the inlets, passages, and channels that characterize this region. Our final night about the Passing Cloud is spent sharing our highlights and reflections of our journey together. Day 6 Small coastal streams, spawning salmon, and old-growth rainforests provide ideal conditions for encountering wolves, black bears, and the rare Spirit bear. We’ll offer an early morning excursion here during which we expect to simply sit at the edge of the rainforest listening and watching as the sounds and sights of morning unfold before us. This morning after breakfast we hope to visit a small nearby field station where researchers are studying the incredible abundance of whales in this region. Day Afterwards, we’re now southbound on the west side of Princess Royal Island. Weather and time permitting, we’ll 9 visit the outer coast island ecosystems this afternoon, stroll As we travel the remaining short distance to Bella along a white-sand beach, and learn about kelp forests Bella this morning we hope for last minute wildlife and sea otters. Or, we might spend the afternoon enjoying sightings and enjoy the vast pristine landscapes the excellent sailing conditions often found there. Late and seascapes of the Great Bear Rainforest. Upon afternoon we’ll make our way to an overnight anchorage our arrival, we say our farewells to the Great Bear in remote protected inlet on the west side of Princess Royal Rainforest before disembarking and making our way Island. to the Bella Bella airport.
Coastal Photography Tour in Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest 9-days exploring glacier-carved fjords and biologically- rich estuaries. The perfect backdrop to hone your nature and wildlife photography skills. 2020 Edition Explore Photograph Learn The largest intact Bears, whales, dolphins, Strategies for photographing coastal temperate porpoises, and ancient coastal wildlife and rainforest on Earth rainforests environments
Photography Tour 2020 Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest During our 2020 Photo Tour in the Great Bear Rainforest, living and travelling aboard the schooner Passing Cloud, and isolated from all the distractions of shore-bound life, you’ll have the opportunity to focus on taking your photography to the next level. Accommodations, delicious food, and transportation to stunning photo destinations are all included, leaving you free to concentrate on capturing your vision of this pristine coastal wilderness. 2
At a Glance Our 9-day/8-night photography tour through Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest is perfect for photographers, novice and accomplished alike, wishing to combine photography with experiencing the wildlife and ecosystems of this incredible region. This unique wilderness photography tour will be led by coastal photography specialist, Dr. James Thompson, and focuses on the megafauna of this diverse ecosystem. This expedition circumnavigates Princess Royal Island, starting and ending in the Heiltsuk First Nation community of Bella Bella, British Columbia. 9-days / 8-nights 2020 departures: October 1-9 Price per person: $6,495 CAD Departs from/Returns to: Bella Bella, BC What’s Included? All meals, accommodation, transportation, Conservation and Stewardship fees, use of onboard gear and resources including rubber boots, instruction and guidance by onboard photography expert, Dr. James Thompson. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, crew gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries. 3
Sample Itinerary: Coastal Photography Tour 2020 “Our expectations were superbly Our floating classroom for this photo tour is the schooner Passing Cloud, and our playground is exceeded in every respect...Once Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest. This all-inclusive again your excellent crew have photography adventure overlays discussion-based workshops, photo reviews, and one-on-one guidance contributed so much to our upon the old-growth rainforests, estuaries, and bear enjoyment. Your enthusiasm, viewing stands operated by local First Nations. knowledge and commitment is unsurpassed. Altogether the Day 1 Bella Bella, Wildlife Photography 101 experience warms the soul. Thank you for providing leadership and Our adventure begins in the Heiltsuk First Nation community of Bella Bella, a short flight from Vancouver guidance to make this and every International Airport. Upon boarding our 70’ classic Passing Cloud experience so wooden schooner Passing Cloud and settling into special.” accommodations, we set sail and begin our journey north into the heart of Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest. As we slice through the waters of the Seaforth Channel - Jonathan, Outer Shores’ Traveler we’ll be on the lookout for our first wildlife sightings - humpback whales, sea otters, elephant seals, and killer whales. Later in the afternoon we’ll set down our anchor in a small coastal estuary and go ashore for our first taste of the coastal temperate rainforest ecosystem. To prepare for tomorrow’s adventure, James will give us his “Wildlife Photography 101” talk after dinner. Day Estuary Wildlife Photo Session 2 Today gets started with an early morning visit to one of the rainforest estuaries, an enclosed body of water with multiple rivers and streams running into it, to observe and photograph wildlife. After exploring this area for the morning, we continue our travels north, potentially spotting humpback whales, dolphins, and porpoises. In the afternoon we visit our first major river system, where we find a comfortable spot to sit and wait to observe grizzly bears fishing for salmon. 4
Day Culpepper Lagoon, Khutze Inlet Day Kayaking, Whales, and Hartley Bay 3 6 After optional morning sea kayaking (or quiet cup of After optional morning sea kayaking (or a quiet cup coffee on deck), we depart for Wright Sound and the of coffee on deck), we depart for Wright Sound and Gitga’at First Nation community of Hartley Bay. On the Gitga’at First Nation community of Hartley Bay. route, we’re hopeful that we’ll encounter the large On route, we’re hopeful that we’ll encounter the large groups of humpback whales that are increasingly found groups of humpback whales that are increasingly congregating in this area. In Hartley Bay we’ll enjoy a found congregating in this area. In Hartley Bay we’ll walking tour of this beautiful boardwalk community enjoy a walking tour of this beautiful boardwalk and learn about the Gitga’at Nation. We’ll spend this community and learn about the Gitga’at Nation. afternoon sailing and photographing whales in Squally We’ll spend this afternoon sailing and photographing Channel and Taylor Bight, hopefully including fin whales, whales in Squally Channel and Taylor Bight, hopefully the second largest mammals on the Planet! We’ll have including fin whales, the second largest mammals on our first image review session tonight. the Planet! Day Dawn Patrol and Hot Springs 4 We continue our exploration of Khutze Inlet with an early morning photography and wildlife expedition into the estuary via our inflatable boat. Next, we head back aboard our ship and travel north in search of the iconic spirit (or Kermode) bear, which are actually black bears with a rare gene that produces completely white fur. After we anchor in Bishop Bay Marine Park for the evening, we head ashore to enjoy a soak in one of the natural hot springs in the area and reflect on our Day Ancient Rainforests, Wolves, and photographic processes of the day. 7 Cetacea Lab This morning we hope to catch a glimpse of the secretive coastal wolves that inhabit the Great Bear Rainforest (but certainly no promises!). We plan to visit a small coastal stream in this region, surrounded by ancient spruce and cedar trees, which provide ideal habitats for wolves and bears. We’ll visit a small research station (Cetacea Lab), where we’ll learn about ongoing whale research in this region, including their whale photo-identification program. This afternoon we’ll sail south through Whale Channel on the look out for…you guessed it! Day Kitasoo/Xaixais Territory, Klemtu Big 8 House This morning we pass through Myers Narrows en route to the Kitasoo/Xaixais First Nation community of Klemtu. We are welcomed to this remote coastal community with a guided tour of their traditional Big House. We’ll learn about the deep history of this indigenous nation and their present-day initiatives to Day Landscape and Wildlife Photography protect their culture, community, and economy. In the 5 afternoon we sail south through Finlayson Channel and Milbanke Sound, getting to experience the outer This morning we’ll follow along a coastal stream in coast before anchoring overnight in the vicinity of the Gitga’at First Nation territory, where we’ll have an Seaforth Channel, near Bella Bella excellent chance of observing spirit bears and black Day bears fishing for salmon. We spend the majority of the 9 Disembark in Bella Bella day quietly observing and photographing the salmon, bears, and other wildlife from the edge of the stream. As we travel the short distance to Bella Bella this This is a great place to break out our tripods and get morning we hope for last minute wildlife sightings, some amazing wildlife and landscape images. Later this and enjoy the pristine landscapes and seascapes of afternoon, we travel a short distance to our overnight the Great Bear Rainforest. Once we arrive, we say anchorage. Tonight we’ll have an image review session our farewells to the Great Bear Rainforest before and discuss our techniques. disembarking and heading to the Bella Bella airport. 5
FAQ: Coastal Photography Tour 2020 Who should take this tour? Anyone with an interest in improving their technical and artistic photographic skills in a stunning coastal wilderness setting. What is the nature of this tour? What kind of photo tour is it? This tour has three main components: (1) living and travelling aboard a beautiful wooden schooner, participants are completely immersed in a pristine coastal wilderness environment, providing unlimited photographic opportunities; (2) all logistics are completely taken care of for you, including accommodation, transportation, and wonderful chef-prepared meals…it’s easy! And (3) our instructor and photography expert focuses on helping you build your photographic toolbox by focusing on a range of photographic challenges/opportunities including marine wildlife, coastal rainforests, the intertidal zone, coastal composition, and more. Frequent shooting sessions, discussion-based workshops, one-on-one help, and group image reviews are hallmarks of this tour. Ultimately, this is your holiday and we want it to be fun and informative for you. What will I get to photograph? We endeavour to expose participants to all the major features of our wild west coast: the open ocean, the fascinating intertidal zone, unspoiled soaring coastal old growth rainforests, and a wide array of wildlife including bears, eagles, whales, sea lions, seals and a myriad of other birdlife all set against the stunning backdrop of the Great Bear Rainforest. We occasionally also run into orca, and porpoises. How physically fit should I be? You should be able to walk short distances over somewhat uneven terrain carrying your camera gear. What is the Instructor to Participant Ratio? How many crew will be on board? There will be a maximum of 6 participants on the tour, and one instructor. Our ship’s crew will consist of captain (also a PhD in marine biology), onboard photography expert, Dr. James Thompson, mate/deckhand, and chef. What camera gear should I bring? Short answer? Everything! The wider the range of focal lengths available to you, the more photographic choices you have. Another essential piece of equipment is a tripod sturdy enough to bear the weight of your camera plus largest lens. Other useful items include a polarizing filter, spare batteries, plenty of storage media, and a flash or reflector. I am a single traveler. Can I have a cabin to myself or do I have to share with someone else? We do encourage spouses or close friends to join this tour together and share a cabin. If you don’t mind sharing, we can add you to pour waitlist to pair you up with another single traveller of the same gender. However, if you would prefer a private cabin, we typically can accommodate single travellers in a cabin to themselves at 2x our regular rate. 6
FAQ: Coastal Photography Tour 2020 (Continued) How do I get there? The tour departs aboard the schooner Passing Cloud from the remote First Nations village of Bella Bella,BC, in the central regions of Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest. Bella Bella Regional Airport hosts daily flights from Vancouver, and sometimes connects in Comox and Campbell River. Pacific Coastal Airlines typically has a morning and afternoon arrival (approximately 2 hours from the Vancouver Airport). Visit Pacific Coastal for further details (pacificcoastal.ca) What will the weather be like? Spending a week on the west coast in September and October although you will likely encounter a little bit of everything, expect rain and cooler temperatures in the rainforest at this time of year. Sun, wind, and rain are often encountered even within a single day as weather fronts from the open Pacific Ocean pass by. You can expect daytime temperatures to be between 5 to 15 degrees Celsius. What clothing should I bring? You will be provided with a detailed packing list well in advance of the tour; however, you’ll need to be prepared for a wide range of weather conditions. How should I protect my camera gear? While rain can easily be wiped off, and many higher-end cameras are well weather sealed, salty sea spray can be very corrosive to sensitive electronics. A simple shower cap will keep the worst of the weather at bay, but you may want to consider purchasing more sophisticated and robust weather protection. See James Thompson’s Outer Shores Blog post “It IS a rainforest after all” for more details (www.outershores. ca/2013/05/it-is-a-rainforest-after-all/). Will I be able to charge my camera batteries and laptop? Yes, the ship has several AC power outlets with the standard North American type plug sockets. How much on board storage is available? There are several large drawers and a small hanging locker in each stateroom, perfect for all your clothing, jackets and some gear. Should I bring my laptop computer? Yes! Although not mandatory, we will be critiquing our work during the trip and providing on-the-fly post-processing tips. There will be downtime each day during which you can work on your images. How do I book this tour? To reserve your berth on this tour we request that you provide a $1000 CAD deposit that is fully refundable until 120 days prior to your departure date. At this time your balance becomes due in full, and payments becomes non-refundable. If you have to cancel inside of 120 days, you can transfer your payment to one of our other expeditions in the same or following year. We recommend you purchase independant travel insurance in the off-chance case you need to cancel last minute. We look forward to welcoming you aboard! 7
Northern Vancouver Island’s Johnstone Strait & Blackfish Sound 5 days sailing with the spectacular marine mammal populations of Northern Vancouver Island 2020 Edition Discover Encounter Learn The incredibly rich Orcas, humpback About the fascinating ecosystem of this wildlife whales, dolphins, behaviours and hotspot porpoises, seals and sea communication of killer lions whales
Johnstone Strait & Blackfish Sound Whales By Sails Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound are world-famous for the killer whale (orca) and humpback whale populations that inhabit these waters. Each year, large numbers whales, dolphins, seals, sea lions, and other marine wildlife congregate in this region to feast upon abundant populations salmon and herring. Fall is a beautiful and peaceful time of year to explore and enjoy this incredibly special place. 2
At a Glance This 5-day sailing expedition aboard our classic schooner Passing Cloud allows us to observe, photograph and learn about killer whales, humpback whales, and many other marine mammals, as well as experience the marine wilderness of Northern Vancouver Island. Traveling under sail at every opportunity, this expedition connects us to the remarkable marine wildlife of this region and the ecosystems that support them. 5-days / 4-nights 2020 Departure Dates: October 14-19 Price Per Person: $2,800 CAD Departs from / Returns to: Port NcNeill What’s Included? All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees, use of onboard gear and resources, and rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries. 3
Sample Itinerary: British Columbia’s Johnstone Strait “Thrilling experience, we enjoyed and Blackfish Sound every minute, especially the wonderful immersion in the Outer Day Shores World. Life is all about 1 experience & learning and we go Our expedition departs from the northern Vancouver away with much to think about.” Island community of Port McNeill, where we board the schooner Passing Cloud. After meeting the crew, – Hans Van De Sande and Sharon Sullivan settling into our accommodations, and receiving a safety briefing, we set sail for Johnstone Strait. As we cruise along the south shore of Hanson Island we’re on the look out for the killer whales and other whales that frequent this region. By mid October we are nearing the end of fish-eating killer whale season but our chances of seeing them are still good, and the mammal-eating killer whales can be seen anytime. After our first day of sailing and marine wildlife viewing, we’ll anchor in a protected cove for the evening. Tonight our Expedition Specialist will give us an introduction to the biology, ecology, and conservation of killer whales on the BC coast. Day 2 This morning we are in the vicinity of the Robson Bight Killer Whale Ecological Reserve, a unique protected area where killer whales come to socialize and use the “rubbing beaches” found within the reserve. Throughout our voyage we hope to encounter killer whales engaged in such diverse behaviours as feeding, resting, socializing, travelling, breaching, spy hopping, and tail slapping. We’ll use our underwater hydrophone to listen to the vocalizations that killer whales use to communicate and locate prey. This afternoon we’ll go on a beautiful forest walk up to “Eagle Eye”, an observation platform where BC Park wardens monitor the movements of killer whales in and out of the reserve, and makes sure that vessels do not enter this important sanctuary.
Day 3 After breakfast we’ll travel through Blackney Passage, a known hotspot for whales, dolphins, and seabirds due to its active tidal currents. We’ll spend some time here to view any wildlife in the area. Afterwards we’ll enter Blackfish Sound (“blackfish” being another name for killer whales) and scan the area for whale spouts and dorsal fins. Blackfish Sound has recently become an area where large numbers of humpback whale congregate and actively feed on the abundant forage fishes found here. We’ll learn about the spectacular recovery of humpback whales on the BC coast, and observe their exciting feeding behaviours. We’ll spend the rest of the day sailing and exploring this highly productive area and viewing the whales and other marine wildlife that we will inevitably encounter. Late in the day we’ll slip through scenic White Beach Passage and into our overnight anchorage at Mound Island. Day 5 As we travel the short distance back to Port McNeill this morning we’re on the lookout for our last wildlife sightings – perhaps a lone minke whale, or a pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins! Once arriving back in Port McNeill, we disembark and say farewell to our new friends and this spectacular region. Day 4 This morning we’ll go ashore to tour and discuss the massive shell midden and “clam garden” located here, both testament to thousands of years of occupation by the indigenous ‘Namgis First Nation of this region and their close connection with marine resources. After lunch we’ll cruise back into Blackfish Sound by way of Knight Inlet to spend the afternoon exploring the Plumper Islands and Weyton Passage, sailing, and wildlife viewing. Late in the day we’ll anchor on Hanson Island and go ashore to explore the low tide. This is also a great place to try out sea kayaking if you haven’t already done so. Over dessert tonight we’ll reflect on all that we have seen and learned over the past 4 days.
You can also read