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Cosmetics Packaging I N S I G H T
SUMMER 2018
How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal
Luxury • Connectivity • Design • Brand protection
CPI002_100_Cover_Final.indd 1 13/07/2018 16:38
AF-SAMPLING INNOVATIONS-ANUNCIOS-210x286mm+3mm-ENGLISH.pdf 1 11/5/18 11:57
C
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CMY
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The perfect experience SELF-SAMPLING®
for your consumer Introducing customised technology that
does exist. dispenses a single fragrance or make up
sample at the touch of a button.
Let’s discover it together. • EASY only one click!
• NON-INVASIVE consumer choice.
360º • INNOVATIVE experiential solution.
Passionate about Passionate about Passionate about
ideas. full service. impact.
We are experts in We offer a 360 degree We seek to engage
creating innovative approach from design and the consumer
sampling solutions for production, through to the and ensure that
fragrance, beauty and promotion and distribution of sampling delivers
personal care brands. samples to your consumer. amazing results. www.sampling-innovations.com
Passionate
about sampling
Scent labels Sachets Vials Miniatures Make up
Samplinginnovations.indd 1 12/07/2018 09:57
From the editor
On the web...
Keep up with the latest developments
Matthew Rogerson
across the packaging industry by visiting Editor
www.pci-mag.com
Premiumisation
with purpose
T
he cosmetics and beauty markets accolade of being counterfeited. Kanebo
are exceptionally focused on sight. last year launched Rose Beauty Whip in an
Cosmetics Packaging Insight Phrases such as ‘beauty is in the aerosol that created a flower-like cream when
Summer 2018
eye of the beholder’, ‘mesmerising’, and dispensing – it proved so popular on social
EDITORIAL
‘the… look’ all cry out to us from pages, media that it had to be rationed in Japan and
Editor Matthew Rogerson
Chief sub-editor Thom Atkinson media platforms and other advertising sites. South Korea. The elements shared by these
Sub-editors Dale Hogan, Todd Palmer The desirable combination seems to be for diverse success stories is that they have all
Contributing writer Ceri Jones
Production manager Steve Buchanan the individual to achieve not just the perfect registered and reacted to the second key
Group art director Henrik Williams
look, but for any occasion. And the strategy ingredient in this aesthetically dominated
Designer Martin Faulkner
is working. Sales for the industry are growing market: premiumisation.
COMMERCIAL
at a phenomenal rate, from $412 billion in While the term is vague enough to cover a
Client services executive Yasmina Jackson
Publication director Jerry Taylor 2017 with a CAGR of 3.6% through to 2022. lot of real estate, it is a crucial factor that gives
Subscriptions marketing manager With these types of sums involved – a well-made cosmetic or beauty product the
Mariella Salerno
Head of sales Richard Jamieson especially in this hyper-connected, social power to develop explosive and sustainable
Publisher William Crocker
media world – looks will only get you so growth. Even when everyone has access
far. Promises of quality have to be delivered to the product, it is still seen as exclusive.
– functions that enhance the experience of Premiumisation is often about engaging
Cosmetics Packaging Insight is published by using the product and take it from a generic the other senses, such as having a fine mist
Compelo, a member of the Audit Bureau of Circulation.
daily grind to a sensational experience that to spray at targeted skincare, an applicator
John Carpenter House, John Carpenter Street,
London, EC4Y 0AN, UK you can share with the world. One that makes that is easy to carry and can be applied with
Tel: +44 20 7936 6400 Fax: +44 20 7411 9800 you want to show everyone how good you incredible accuracy, shaving foam that does
Email: info@compelo.com
Websites: www.compelo.com look and how well you feel. not need water, or a unique dispensing system
www.pci-mag.com
Cosmetics and beauty have responded. In that adds a little joy to the overall effect. These
ISSN 2516-3442 © 2018 Compelo.
Registered in England No. 09901510. China, Estée Lauder has used role models and touches have all had successful debuts this
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
tied in packaging to enhance the experience year, and more are anticipated.
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any for millennial women, who previously avoided There are a range of these and other
form or by any means, electronic, photocopying or otherwise,
without prior permission of the publisher and copyright owner. the brand, resulting in huge success. Kylie topics covered in this edition of Cosmetics
While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the Jenner, who is only 21 in August, has started a Packaging Insight, and though the whole
information in this publication, the publisher accepts no
responsibility for errors or omissions. cosmetics brand that has been so successful, beauty market is included, it is cosmetics
The products and services advertised are those of individual that not only will she be a dollar billionaire in that are driving the most visible innovations
authors and are not necessarily endorsed by or connected with
her 20s, but she also acquired the dubious in this most visible of markets.
the publisher. The opinions expressed in the articles within this
publication are those of individual authors and not necessarily
those of the publisher.
Cosmetics Packaging
In this issue
SUBSCRIPTIONS
I N S I G H T
SUMMER 2018
Single issue: UK £31 EU €49 US $65 ROW $65
One year: UK £48 EU €76 US $99 ROW $100
Two year: UK £77 EU €120 US $158 ROW $159 Page 15: Selling the dream: executives from top brands
discuss how to package and market the idea of premium.
Subscription hotline: +44 845 155 1845 (local rate)
Subscription fax: +44 20 8269 7877
Page 22: We look at the role social media has played in the
Email: cs@compelo.com rapid success story of Kylie Cosmetics.
Cosmetic Packaging Insight & Innovation Subscriptions,
Riverbridge House, Ground Floor, South Tower, Anchor Boulevard. Page 37: How Estée Lauder capitalised on the enthusiasm of
Crossways, Kent DA2 6SL youth in China by appealing to a younger market.
Printed by Stephens & George Print Group How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal
Luxury • Connectivity • Design • Brand protection
Visit www.pci-mag.com
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 3
CPI002_101_Foreword.indd 3 16/07/2018 12:25
Contents
In this issue... Cosmetics
Packaging I N S I G H
SUMME R T
Cover story
2018
How a deco
rative finish
can increase
shelf appe
Luxury •
al
Connectivi
ty • Design
• Brand
prote ction
32
Decorative finishes are more than a superficial touch-up; they help to establish prominence and a core market.
6 Data projection 13 Time to get serious counterfeit cosmetic case. We
Using stats from GlobalData, Airopack uncover the dark issue of black
Cosmetics Packaging Insight market beauty and speaks with
takes an in-depth look at changing 14 Linerless labels that brands that are doing everything
market trends in relation to save on materials to protect their consumers.
countries and brands, and assess Artimelt
where value will be found going 21 Security authentication
forward. In future editions, we will 15 On their soapbox for better tracking
be taking a closer look at the three Premiumisation is no longer the MicroTag Temed
biggest markets – China, Brazil preserve of products with high-
and the UK – to learn more about price tags. Matthew Rogerson 22 Jenner capital
their key drivers. reaches out to cosmetics Launched in November 2015 by
executives from premium brands Kylie Jenner, the eponymous Kylie
9 Head and shoulders above for their thoughts on how they Cosmetics has become one of the
The problem of plastic waste and develop, design and define fastest-growing beauty brands in
marine litter has been widespread exclusivity in beauty. the world, with a $900-million
in public discussion in 2018, and revenue recently announced by
many leading companies are 18 Flawed beauty Forbes, Cosmetics Packaging Insight
doing their part to resolve the The beauty industry lost over $45 examines how leveraging social
problem. We gather understanding billion to counterfeit products in media has created and crafted this
from the sustainability and 2017, and the scale of the problem popular cosmetics company.
packaging teams at Procter & grows exponentially when trying
Gamble, to learn more about how to account for unreported, online 25 Window of luxury
innovation can play a part. or intangible losses that follow a Sampling Innovations Europe
4 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI002_102_Contents.indd 4 16/07/2018 12:27
Contents
22 37
Celebrities can leverage fame to
endorse and create products.
Estée Lauder has launched lipstick in conjunction with a Chinese
television show, capturing a new and youthful audience for its products.
29 Delivering fast-response 35 Putting personal-care
cosmetic solutions brands ahead of the pack
RPC Bramlage Division Codimag
31 The future of foils 37 New faces
Univacco Estée Lauder has successfully
revamped its image in China, from
32 Fashion finishes first a luxury brand for older women into
Decorative finishes are more than a youthful brand positioned for a
the final touch for packaging younger audience. In doing so, the
design, at once offering consumers company recorded a 40% increase in
26 The right stuff more while defining a product’s sales there, compared with a 5% rise
Paul Howells, former vice-president marketing design and core in its other markets in Q4 2017.
for packaging at Unilever, has an demographic. This article focuses
appreciation for good design and on how elaborate and decorative 43 My kind of city
an expertise in how to merge the finishes are aiding brands in the ADF&PCD New York 2018 is set
technical needs of packaging with quest to gain prominence among to deliver more brands, content
the consumer trends and aesthetics considerable competition. and interactivity.
required for brand-leading design.
He discusses design’s role in
43
ADF has a plethora of free-to-attend interactive
packaging’s future. workshops and seminars with industry pioneers.
26
An expert look at merging technical
needs and consumer trends to
create a brand-leading design.
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 5
CPI002_102_Contents.indd 5 16/07/2018 12:27
The intelligence > Market analysis
Data
projection
Using stats from GlobalData, Cosmetics Packaging Insight takes an in-depth look at
changing market trends in relation to countries and brands, and asses where value will
be found going forward. In future editions, we will be taking a closer look at the three
biggest markets – China, Brazil and the UK – to learn more about their key drivers.
C
urrently, across the four key in the beauty or grooming products efficient personal-care solutions.
areas – ingredients, claims, they buy, according to recent surveys. Ethical claims, such as ‘sustainably
labels and packaging – there Therefore, it becomes important for sourced’ and ‘vegan’, will remain in
are important statuses to consider. brands to provide ingredient lists vogue, as brands try to increase their
With ingredients, there is increasing – as well as allergen information – appeal across a diverse user segment.
demand for high-performance on labels. With the growing desire for simple
cosmetics that not only nourish, With busy consumer lifestyles and clean labelling, the demand
but address specific issues, such as and rising usage on the go, for products with clear on-pack
hair loss, dull skin or dark spots. This convenient, effective and single-use communication will gain momentum.
has led to the emergence of products pack formats have gained popularity For instance, using simple language
with active ingredients, vitamins in the personal-care industry. or recognisable ingredients along
and minerals. Distaste for artificial Manufacturers of cosmetics and with scientific names will increase
ingredients has also prompted growth toiletries are focusing on innovations product appeal and build trust
in the use of natural ingredients. such as spray-on and roll-on. through transparency.
Finally, manufacturers will continue
to innovate with new formats, designs
An increasing number of companies in the and value-added packaging features
cosmetics and toiletries industry are hopping for cosmetics and toiletries, enhancing
on the ‘green’ bandwagon, packaging their user experience. Additionally, the
consumer desire to reduce household
products in recycled or recyclable materials. waste from packaging will spur
manufacturers to focus on sustainable
Functional claims, such as UV In the future, ingredients packaging, such as recycled materials
defence and anti-ageing, are being brands will increasingly incorporate and paperboard, as well as
used to make cosmetics and toiletries superfoods, such as probiotics and biodegradable plastics.
appealing to consumers who seek products deemed to be naturally
quick and effective results. Producers nourishing to the skin and hair. Grand central stats
are also capitalising on free-from Additionally, in order to gain clean In 2017, the global cosmetics and
claims to build an ethically and label positioning, the influence of toiletries industry was valued at
socially conscious brand image for regional beauty regimen will drive $412 billion, led by Asia-Pacific and
consumers who look for personal-care the use of ingredients such as snail the Americas, which accounted for
products that share their ideals. In essence, yogurt, argon oil, jojoba, value shares of 37.6 and 32.4%,
labelling, as consumers become more black pine and wild rose. Future respectively. An improving global
savvy and aware of the numerous product claims will follow the clean economy, driven by strong economic
complex ingredients used in label trend and a continued interest growth in the emerging markets and
cosmetics and toiletries, they are in organic products. the subsequent rise in disposable
increasingly reading product labels. Functional claims, such as ‘pollution income levels, is the major growth
As many as 42% of consumers pay protection’ and ‘sweat-defence’, will driver. Skincare was the largest sector,
close attention to the ingredients used see a rise, given consumers desire for with a value share of 28.2% in 2017,
6 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 6 13/07/2018 15:09
The intelligence > Market analysis
followed by haircare and make-up,
which accounted for value shares of Key sectors by value ($ millions), 2017 versus 2022
16.9 and 11.5%, respectively.
2017 2022
Growth drivers
across the globe
■ High participation of women
in the global labour force –
currently 49.5% – will continue
to support growth in the
industry, as women become
more appearance-conscious.
■ Rising consumer confidence
across major global markets,
coupled with the high-spending
habits of millennials, who
specifically spend to improve Colour key guide
their appearances, drive sales Skincare (2017) 28.2% (2022) 29.5%
for cosmetics and toiletries. Haircare (2017) 16.9% (2022) 16.7%
■ Strong growth in the air travel Make-up (2017) 11.5% (2022) 11.3%
industry, with international travel Personal hygiene (2017) 11.5% (2022) 11.1%
rising by 6.7%, and the subsequent Fragrances (2017) 9.3% (2022) 8.8%
rise in travel retail remained a Oral hygiene (2017) 8.7% (2022) 8.4%
major driver for luxury brands, Feminine hygiene (2017) 7.3% (2022) 7.6%
such as L’Oréal and Estée Lauder. Others (2017) 6.7% (2022) 6.6%
Latest developments ■ As consumers seek more increasingly pursue cosmetics with
■ An increasing number of information about the products organic labels – often perceived to be
cosmetics and personal-care they use, companies must focus safer for consumers and better for the
companies are hopping onto the more on ingredient traceability, planet. However, natural oils and
‘green’ bandwagon, packaging which is challenging by virtue of esters do not deliver the same level
their products with recycled or the globalisation of supply chains. of performance that consumers have
recyclable materials. For instance, come to expect from beauty products
P&G developed a recyclable bottle Demand for transparency made with petrochemicals. Therefore,
for its Head & Shoulders line, in ingredient labelling identifying natural ingredients that
and Dior launched Hydra Life Consumers increasingly demand guarantee safety, efficacy and a
in lightweight glass packaging. ‘traceability’ of ingredients and long shelf life on par with synthetic
■ Rising consumer desire for a an emphasis on corporate social ingredients continues to be a
premium experience is driving responsibility when it comes to challenge for ‘natural’ formulations
manufacturers to use expensive chemical ingredients being used of cosmetics and toiletries.
and luxurious ingredients, such in personal-care products, owing
as gold, caviar and diamonds in to concerns over their safety. With Consumer desire to look
their cosmetic products. retail giants, including Walmart and ‘good from within’
Target, announcing new chemical As consumers begin to grasp the
Future inhibitors policies that require suppliers to significance of diet in order to look
■ With governments focusing list ingredients on the product their best, there is a growing demand
on reducing the environmental labels as well as on their websites, for ‘ingestible beauty’, which poses
impact of cosmetics, manufacturers of cosmetics and a threat to cosmetics and toiletries as
manufacturers could be required toiletries will be under pressure to consumers seek to reduce dependence
to alter their product formulations. ensure the use of natural ingredients on them. In addition, mounting
For instance, the Swedish in order to stay relevant. evidence of a strong link between
Government plans to introduce a healthy gut and skin condition is
legislations to reduce the use of Challenges of driving interest in consumption of
substances such as triclosan and ‘natural’ formulations probiotic-rich foods, such as yogurt,
triclocarban in cosmetics, as they As consumers grow conscious of the miso and sauerkraut, deemed to
are harmful to the environment. consequences of their choices, they revitalise the skin. This desire to look
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 7
CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 7 13/07/2018 09:17
The intelligence > Market analysis
Top ten high-potential countries from GlobalData’s opportunity index
Value in 2017 CAGR
Country Key issues Opportunity score
($ million) 2017–22 (%)
The recent political tensions in the Korean Peninsula
South Korea 12,569 4.6 have had an impact on consumer confidence. Moreover, 43.2
tourist arrivals dipped drastically as political tensions escalated
Increasing political uncertainty and challenging
China 70,455 8.0 40.7
economic reforms are slowing economic growth
High dependency on oil, in addition to conflict
Saudi Arabia 4,184 4.2 43.1
with Iran, presents a challenge to the country
High income inequality presents a major social and
Colombia 3,329 4.0 economic barrier to growth, despite the government’s 33.0
recent efforts to reduce poverty
A shrinking workforce, given that baby boomers account
for approximately one third of the population, coupled with
Canada 7,620 2.6 31.4
low birth rates is expected to create
a large gap in the workforce
A high corruption rate and high unemployment are
Brazil 36,519 3.2 30.5
impacting social and economic development
Consumer confidence remains low, following the Brexit
Netherlands 3,858 2.4 29.2
vote, resulting in weak consumption
Decline in capital inflows and inward investment is
UK 15,711 2.2 28.1
impacting the economic prosperity of the country
Factors such as low oil prices and reduced
Russia 10,024 3.6 investment confidence, in addition to rising inflation, 33.8
are impacting economic development
The ongoing political unrest presents
Poland 4,146 3.2 31.3
a challenging environment for businesses
good from within could influence packaging waste, they increasingly GlobalData has created an
the way consumers use cosmetics demand recyclable and reusable aggregated scoring system to rank
and toiletries. packaging. Coupled with the rise rewards and risks, and identify the
of mandatory regulations on making top opportunity markets. Rewards are
Mounting pressure resource conservation and climate quantified by current industry value
With organisations such as Cruelty Free protection a priority, manufacturers and forecast growth. Risk quantifies
International challenging the cosmetics are under pressure to invest in ‘green’ the potential for market disruption
industry to go cruelty free by 2021 and packaging materials. With consumers and uncertainty across a range of
urging regulators to set a deadline to not willing to pay more for eco- topics, including political issues,
phase out animal testing of cosmetics friendly products, manufacturers corruption, price inflation and
worldwide, the industry is under are faced with tighter profit margins urbanisation. The aim of this is to fully
pressure to find alternative testing owing to rising production costs consider the attractiveness of the
methods. Furthermore, the European from using eco-friendly materials. industry and rank it accordingly.
Court of Justice has ruled that cosmetics As the aim of this initial and ongoing
tested on animals outside the EU cannot How have the countries in report is to identify the high-potential
be sold within the EU. This ruling puts this report been selected countries, the ranking system assigns
further pressure on manufacturers to and scored? weighting factors of 70 and 30% to
create cruelty-free products, irrespective GlobalData has selected the ten reward and risk analysis, respectively.
of the intended market. countries identified in this report The reward and risk factors are
from a pool of the top 50 economies assigned further weight based on
Prioritising sustainability globally. Using GlobalData’s unique their importance. The aforementioned
As consumers turn eco-conscious, ranking system, the top ten GlobalData opportunity score is
given the rising awareness of the opportunities for the industry ranked low to high, with higher scores
ecological damage caused by were identified. indicating greater reward or less risk.
8 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 8 13/07/2018 09:18
Insight > Sustainability
Head and
shoulders above
The problem of plastic waste and marine litter has been widespread in
public discussion in 2018, and many leading companies are doing their part
to resolve the problem. Cosmetics Packaging Insight
gathers understanding from the sustainability and
packaging teams in Procter & Gamble, to
learn more about how innovation
can play a part.
recovery
and end
markets in
place. By
2025, all
of our major
packaging
platforms will
be recyclable
or reusable.”
P&G CEO, chairman
P
rocter & Gamble (P&G) has and president David Taylor said, “We
pledged to make all of its believe P&G can be a force for good and
packaging recyclable or reusable The company wrote in its report, “In a force for growth, and we are taking a
by 2025. This will encompass about 95% the absence of a globally aligned definition more deliberate approach to delighting
of packaging materials used and will be of recyclable, our definition goes beyond consumers while enabling responsible
possible thanks to new package designs, the technical ability to recycle an item consumption. Consumers expect the
a more sustainable material choice and and calls for a recycling system to be brands they trust to deliver superior
cooperation with sustainability experts. operational at scale, with viable collection, performance and help solve some of the
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 9
CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 9 13/07/2018 15:08
Insight > Sustainability
most complex challenges facing our world.
Our global reach, our understanding of the
five billion consumers we serve and our
innovation capabilities give us a unique
ability to make a positive difference.”
Ambition 2030 is an amendment to
P&G’s previous sustainability goals, which
were to be achieved by 2020. Although
the corporation reached some of these
goals (for example, reducing energy use
at its facilities per unit of production by
22%) it looks like there is still a lot to do.
In its previous plan, P&G pledged to
cut absolute greenhouse emissions by 30%
by 2020. So far, it has only cut them by 16%.
It also committed to doubling the use of
recycled resin in plastic packaging, though In France, Head & Shoulders released a bottle made from PCR plastics recovered from French beaches.
it is yet to achieve two thirds of that target.
P&G vice-president of global “Some of the latest examples in recycling plants that are equipped with
sustainability Virginie Helias said, “Building beauty that come to mind include our the requisite technologies. Impacted
on our progress to date, our 2030 goals newly acquired natural segment brands, supply chain members, such as waste
seek to address two of the world’s most Native, a natural deodarent, and manufactures (including sorting plants and
pressing environmental challenges: finite Snowberry, a skincare product – both recyclers) will need to retro-fit machinery,
resources and growing consumption.” from New Zealand. which requires additional investment.”
He continued, “This needs to be done
Our 2030 goals seek to address two of the across all EU member states and beyond.
Harmonisation addresses the need to reach
world’s most pressing environmental challenges: the increased recycling rates necessary
finite resources and growing consumption. to achieve circular economies. The goal
of the ‘Holy Grail’ project, which is run as
– Virginie Helias, P&G
a pioneer project within the New Plastics
As P&G continues its efforts and moves “In haircare, we launched Herbal Economy, is to bring together the value
towards its ambitious goals, there are going Bio:Renew, which is made with a blend of chain and agree on what a value tracer or
to be challenges, as Helias acknowledges, antioxidants, aloe and sea kelp, and is free watermark could bring to the industry in
“One of the biggest challenges is that this of parabens, dyes and gluten. We launched order to consider the scenarios where this
whole call to action relies on collaboration. Rejoice Micellar Water in China, which is technology should be implemented first.”
We are in this task force, aptly called a non-silicone shampoo and conditioner. “In addition, eco-design and high-
‘Holy Grail’, which is about using tracer We are launching Pantene Micellar to bring quality or quantity post-consumer
technology to better sort plastic, meaning the same benefits of a gentle cleansing recycled materials (PCR) are a big focus
the end value is higher because it’s better shampoo and conditioner that removes of all value chain members that need to
sorted. These are things we’ve never done impurities, but with no silicones, parabens develop packs for circular design, while
before. We need to build the capability there, and dyes.” still meeting the primary objectives of a
and we need to have a new mindset of pack for containment. There is a need for
it being a shared obligation. It’s not just Sorting the mess an objective assessment of recyclability.
competition and innovation; we need to Equally optimistic about the work and Take the RecyClass tool, which was
participate in these societal collaboration direction it is taking is Gian de Belder, developed by Plastic Recyclers Europe
efforts. We cannot succeed alone, and principal scientist, who added a few and combines all existing EU guidelines
neither can individual partners. We can additional remarks on key developments for compliance. There is also a need for
only get where we need to go together.” in plastics using tracer or watermark more high-quality recycled materials at
She added, “P&G continues to innovate sorting for recycling. the right cost, quantity and quality. P&G’s
to develop new products that grow “Sorting technologies have the potential strategy is to double PCR use by 2020,
the relevance of our brands with the to create what we refer to as a ‘barcode and we are continuously looking for
increasingly environmentally concerned for recycling’,” as he explained. “By baking partners in this field.”
shopper. We do this without a performance tracers or watermarks into packaging, the One of the most recent high-visibility
trade-off so consumers continue to get the product isn’t altered in the eyes of the launches by P&G in this sector was
results they expect from P&G brands. consumer but will add value at sorting and based on the limited edition release from
10 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 10 13/07/2018 09:20Insight > Sustainability
Carrefour, in France, of Head & Shoulders
bottles made from PCR beach plastic. Progressive P&G: some of the most recent
Helias said, “The project with Head
product launches, from Product Launch Analytics
& Shoulders is a very concrete sign to
Secret Freshies On-The-Go – Paris Rose, Luxe
customers, consumers and governments Lavender, Cool Waterlily, Chill Ocean
that we care about plastics and, specifically, New Secret Freshies On-The-Go antiperspirant deodorant has
plastics in the ocean. We had not set arrived on the market in the US. Designed specifically for women
out to do anything more than provide on the go, the invisible solid antiperspirant and deodorant is
uniquely packaged in a small, discreet, portable ball with a twist-
an experiment. We had no idea whether
off cap for quick and easy swiping application. It can be stored in
people would be interested or not. Many most purses, backpacks, gym bags, clutches or desk drawers.
design changes, such as amending the Today’s consumers are busier than ever, making a strong market
iconic brand colours for the bottle, caused opportunity for products aimed for use on the go. In the case
of this deodorant, women can quickly and easily reapply it
initial consternation. But it paid off with
throughout busy days for a burst of freshness and odour control,
top ten sales wherever we piloted the new wherever they might be. P&G distributes Paris Rose, Luxe Lavender, Cool Waterlily and
product. There was also amazing work Chill Ocean scent options in 0.5oz plastic blisters within paperboard sleeves for $4.97.
from the retailers in helping us get people
Hair Food – Kiwi & Exotic Fig
in-store, because consumers need a little
In Canada, P&G has launched a new Kiwi & Exotic Fig
education around what this is about. Also, volume shampoo under the Hair Food label. The formula
we allowed people to participate in the is inspired by ‘fresh, energy-packed ingredients known for
beach collection – there was a beach clean- their vitalising power’. The shampoo is described as having
a fragrance of kiwi and exotic fig to cleanse hair and leave
up where you could go and participate.
it with luxurious body and shine. It is also free from silicone,
We had 1,000 volunteers to collect plastic paraben and mineral oil. The roll-out of this shampoo is
from French beaches.” based on the idea that the hair needs nourishment, just as
the body does. Thus, natural power foods found in nutrition
Getting involved can be beneficial in haircare formulas as well. The prominent
‘free-from’ claims and natural food ingredients in this product
This further highlights an increasingly could resonate with Canadian consumers. A 530ml plastic pump bottle retails
important part of sustainability, which is for C$9.98.
consumer interaction. Frustration is one
of the biggest issues for today’s shoppers, Old Spice – Captain, Bearglove, Swagger, Fiji
While not uncommon, the ‘invisible spray’ versus
who question plastic litter and its ecological ‘invisible solid’ versions of anti-perspirant and
impact but might feel they can’t do deodorant are making their way onto store shelves in
anything about it. But as Helias says, specific scents to appeal to the just-for-me consumer,
sustainability does not need to be daunting fitting into the individualism trend. One example is Old
Spice’s 48Hr Anti-Perspirant Deodorant Invisible Spray,
or inaccessible, “We tell our customers that
which comes in Captain, Bearglove, Swagger and Fiji
visually, you are not going to clean the variants. An established brand targeted at men, this range offers the consumer
ocean, but just by recycling your Head & invisible, long-lasting protection from sweat and odour. Distributed in the US by P&G,
Shoulders bottle, this is how you can help each variety is sold in a 3.8oz aerosol spray can for $5.49.
and be part of the circular economy. This is
very rewarding for people. We have tangible
signs that there is interest and we want to sustainability leader at P&G. “We’ve been “At P&G, we believe actions speak
take it to the next level.” fortunate to work with great partners, in louder than words. The increased
The project is in partnership with TerraCycle and SUEZ, to make this target use of PCR plastic across our haircare
recycling experts TerraCycle and SUEZ. a reality.” portfolio of brands demonstrates our
It will be the world’s largest production run Also, P&G announced that, in Europe, continued commitment to driving real
of recyclable bottles made with PCR beach by the end of 2018, more than half a billion change,” concluded Helias, “The Head
plastic, and the first step in establishing bottles per year will include up to 25% PCR & Shoulders recyclable shampoo bottle
a unique supply chain that involves the plastic. This represents more than 90% of all made with beach plastic is a world’s first
support of thousands of volunteers and haircare bottles sold in Europe. The project in the haircare category. Increasing the
hundreds of NGOs collecting plastic waste will require 2,600t of recycled plastic every use of recycled plastic in the packaging
found on beaches. year – the same weight as eight fully loaded of our flagship brands, like Pantene and
“We felt that the leading shampoo Boeing 747s. P&G has been using PCR Head & Shoulders, makes it easier for
brand in sales should lead in sustainability plastic in packaging for over 25 years, and consumers to choose more sustainable
innovation, because when we do this, it the announcement is an important step in products, without any trade-offs. So while
encourages the entire industry to do the the company’s journey to meet its 2020 goal we’re proud of what we’ve done and
same,” said Lisa Jennings, vice-president of doubling the tonnage of PCR plastic used what we’re doing, we know there is much
at Head & Shoulders and global haircare in packaging. more work ahead.”
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 11
CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 11 13/07/2018 09:21Time to get serious...
The clock is ticking...
At Airopack we take the health of our planet seriously. Airopack’s unique Pressure Control Device is a far
Our engineers have made a commitment to making superior delivery system to petrol propellants or
things better. Together with our global customers pumps. All of the content is used resulting in Zero
we have developed a Planet Friendly aerosol. An Waste Airopack requires fewer raw materials in
aerosol that is driven by pure air. manufacture, consumes less energy in production
and transporation. Result: much lower CO2 emission.
Airopack contains no propellants, just cream, lotion or Airopack doesn’t contain harmful gases, petroleum
spray and pure, clean air. Each transparent Airopack is based propellants. Nothing but 100% pure, clean air.
created from transparent plastics only, which in turn
makes every Airopack aerosol completely different Good things happen when you think Airopack.
from any other aerosol system. Good for you and good for the planet.
Want to know more about Airopack? Contact us now: T +31 416 22 40 40, E info@airopack.com, I www.airopack.com
Airopack Headquarters: Van Hilststraat 21, 5145 RK Waalwijk, The Netherlands
Airopack.indd 1 12/07/2018 09:58Company insight
Time to get serious
Airopack offers an environmentally friendly alternative to the traditional aerosol spray
that is powered entirely by air, rather than a gas propellant and chemicals. This can
reduce the product’s carbon footprint by 30%, and provides better packaging that is
also safe and sustainable.
I
t’s time to seek a serious, practical alternative to the n There is a broad range of nozzles and packs of varying
traditional aerosol – a smarter alternative that’s better volumes available. You can make Airopack your pack
for the planet and the people who populate it. Products for your brand, product and identity.
that are currently dispensed by an aerosol or pump spray, n Off the shelf sizes of 35–200ml, ideal for all products,
can be dispensed by Airopack. Airopack’s broader business from skin creams to air fresheners, are available.
benefits go far beyond simply being better packaging, n Creating your own individual brand look and feel is
because of the safety and sustainability. possble. As well as a broad range of standard
formulations, Airopack will happily work with
People and planet-friendly customers to create custom formulations and solutions.
Contents are added to a traditional aerosol can in liquid n The revolutionary worldwide patented Airopack
form, such as shaving cream, deodorant or salad oils, technology offers a safe pressurised dispenser that’s
which is then sealed. A gas propellant – commonly planet-friendly with no unnecessary waste and, by
butane, isobutane or propane – is then added through eliminating chemical propellants, there are no
a valve system and pumped into the can at high pressure. inhalation risks.
This propels the liquid upward and through the spray
nozzle. Although butane and propane have largely replaced It’s surprising what we can do together
chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), there are still many chemicals Airopack is a smarter alternative that’s better for the planet and
associated with traditional aerosols. the people who populate it. And with this ternary of services,
Airopack is the planet-friendly, virtually all-plastic aerosol formulation, packaging and filling, clients are provided with a
that’s powered purely by air. The company has managed to one-stop solution for their product:
reduce the carbon footprint of each Airopack by 30%, n Airosolutions: Airopack offers a total solution for
because there are no harmful gases or other pollutants each of its customers with its formulation and filling
inside. Each transparent Airopack is mainly manufactured partner in Europe: Airosolutions. By pooling experience
from recyclable plastic (PET). There are no gas propellants or and sharing thoughts, it develops bespoke solutions and
chemicals – just an ingeniously designed pressure control services, from trend watching, formulation development,
device, the product and pure clean air. You can spray the packaging development, graphic design, pack filling,
product 360° at any angle. What could be more natural? packaging and logistics. Customers decide what’s right
for them, their brand or their company. But however large
Airopack is the planet-friendly, or small the project, you’ll be amazed by what you can
virtually all-plastic aerosol that’s achieve together.
n Airofiller: allows customers to fill the planet-friendly
powered purely by air. The company aerosol at their own chosen location as well. Airofiller creates
has managed to reduce the carbon a complete bespoke ‘filling facility’ on-site for their Airopack
within just eight weeks. As well as dramatically cutting the
footprint of each Airopack by 30%, costs of logistics, they can benefit from their own Airopack
because there are no harmful gases packaging and filling unit on-site. It’s a simple one-stop
or other pollutants inside. solution. Set and control your own production volumes
and launch your products far more efficiently.
Think possibilities
Airopack works wonderfully with sprays and creams of Together with partners Airosolutions and Airofiller,
virtually every style and formulation. From ultra-fine mists Airopack aims to provide a total solution for everyone who
to rich and creamy viscosities, there’s a wide range of is searching for a practical, planet-friendly alternative for the
nozzles to suit everything from air-sprays to hand creams. traditional aerosol.
Unlike a ‘pump spray’, there’s no need to press the nozzle
several times before use.
Airopack’s pressure control device provides a smooth, Further information
Airopack
uninterrupted flow, and an end to splutters and ‘stop, start, www.airopack.com
stop’, as well as several other benefits:
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 13
CPI002_Airopack.indd 13 13/07/2018 09:37Company insight
Linerless labels that
save on materials
Hot melt adhesive company artimelt has created a new adhesive product line – artimeltlinerless –
that reduces material waste, saves on cost and cuts down on cleaning time for the cutting blade.
T
he use of linerless labels has steadily increased in recent considerable downtime costs. Atimeltlinerless adhesives are
years. The variety of application possibilities are developing checked by manufacturers of such systems and come out on
all the time and the growth potential for these labels is top in terms of performance.
massive. Artimelt has 20 years of experience and knows what Linerless is not only used for standard large packs and self-
counts in this application field. As a manufacturer of high-grade service scales in retail outlets, but also increasingly for packing
hot melt adhesives, the company developed artimeltlinerless as and labelling cosmetic products. Artimeltlinerless is the most
a dedicated product line offering a range of solutions in this area. popular adhesive product in the linerless adhesive sector – not to
Most of the self-adhesive labels available on the market are mention one of the best. Leading labelling machine manufacturers
made from classic self-adhesive laminate. A major disadvantage recommend artimeltlinerless because of the negligible soiling of
is the non-recyclable material waste. The perfect solution would, the cutting blade. Interruptions for cleaning are massively reduced
therefore, be labels that do not have to be punched and do not and the product’s outstanding workability leaves virtually nothing
need a backing. Alongside the many tons of waste that would to be desired. Less waste and more usable material per reel will
be avoided, this would also mean a reduction of material costs increase efficiency for the customer.
by up to 30%.
As the label is not printed and cut until the point of sale when
used in this way, special adhesives are required that do not Further information
artimelt
soil the printheads and cutters. Shutting down the system to www.artimelt.com/linerlesss
have it cleaned causes an unnecessary loss of time and thus
artimeltlinerless
Linerless applications for
food · beverage ·
cosmetics · logistics
increasing sustainable and ecological performance
Your key advantages
· leader in linerless adhesives · 30% less material costs · no release liner and matrix waste
· excellent cutting properties · up to 60% more labels per reel · more than 20 years of experience
«By incorporating artimelt linerless hot melt into our application chain, we were able for more information contact
to reduce waste and cleaning downtime significantly. That pays off.» Wolfgang Aufmuth
Customer · Switzerland T +41 41 926 05 00
artimelt.com
Artimelt.indd 3 03/05/2018 15:23
14 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI002_Artimelt.indd 14 13/07/2018 09:39Insight > Luxury
On their
soapbox
Premiumisation is no longer the preserve of products with high price tags. Matthew
Rogerson reached out to cosmetics executives from premium brands for their thoughts
on how they develop, design and define exclusivity in beauty.
G
race Fodor, founder of innovative
cult make-up brand Studio 10, is
on a mission to redefine beauty
for women as they age. It’s a position that
no other brand in premium make-up has
taken up in earnest, creating an opportunity
that’s paying dividends for the company.
“For me, the company is a voice
All companies identify packaging as crucial to brand recognition and loyalty.
advocating being truly visible and
confident,” she says. “The range movement to challenge the assumptions brushes delivering both volume and
is designed specifically for women as they or stereotypes of middle-age, which are separation. Or the Armani To Go Cushion
age, at a time when 74% feel that existing misrepresentative of the individual, has Foundation, with its airtight case to protect
products do not reflect their needs.” given us a huge competitive advantage. the sensitive formula, and Lancôme’s
Coupled with being a brand 100% Genefique Sensitive skincare, which allows
Ageless beauty developed by women for women, we immediate delivery in a single pressure-
Reaching these consumers via digital will be taking an even more active role in booster. Additionally, in haircare, there’s
channels has been at the heart of Studio not only consuming products, but in the Power Mix, from L’Oréal Professionnel’s
10’s success. It allows the company to creation, production and even distribution.” expert line, which enables the hairdresser
reach an older demographic who feel that to offer their client a personalised hair
retail does not offer them personalised The age of discovery treatment that is blended under their eyes.”
products and who lack the confidence to L’Oréal Packaging had a very busy year in As for what to expect in the rest of 2018,
approach assistants who might be decades 2017, with more than 600 moulds created Thuvien was very excited by the recent
younger than them. Fodor’s approach and 90 patents filed. It was a great year for developments and direction of the
is to build strong, personal and direct innovation too, with many eco-designed company – including grouping the design
relationships. She continues, “People like innovations, which identified the team within the packaging team to better
interacting and buying from other people environment as being a major concern in design and develop consumer-centric
more than from faceless brands. Being the strategy of the L’Oréal Group. This is packaging that delights customers and
behind the brand, I hope women can all part of the plan, according to Philippe enhances the occasion, citing that more
identify, relate and have real conversations Thuvien, packaging and development than 700 projects will be created in
with me. To do this requires using all director of L’Oréal Group. product design during 2018.
channels and media available, on and offline, “Clearly, packaging innovation is
and tailoring all communication as we go. strategic to boosting product performance Delighting in the mundane
Digital allows instant feedback – this way, and protecting the formula,” he explains. Philip Tarrant, Coty’s research and
I can build an authentic relationship on a “Packaging has a key role in increasing development leader for North America,
personal level.” the perceived value of the product and says, “The trend for premiumisation is tied
While Studio 10 might be seen as a range providing an additional service to the to innovation, as one of the key aspects
that targets over-40s, Fodor has a broader user. Some recent examples of premium, is enhancing the experience and
vision: redefining beauty and age. Selling innovative packaging include the Lash functionality of the product to make it more
products is only part of this mission, as Paradise mascaras from L’Oréal Paris and indispensable than an alternative. In beauty,
she explains, “I’ve found that creating a Mister Big from Lancôme, with their fibre when you speak of innovation there are
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 15
CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 15 13/07/2018 09:22Insight > Luxury
basically two types: true innovation, valve to a premium-looking, lockable consumer research when we develop
creating something entirely new, or spray-through cap. In this case, new packaging and work to find their
implantation innovation, taking an existing not only did the redesign change unknown needs.”
technology to a broader audience by consumer perception and experience, Price further explained that the real
making it less expensive and easier but it actually included a reduction value comes from paying attention
to manufacture.” Both can support in plastic, proving that it’s possible to the unknown, and seeking value
development of a premium packaging to be innovative, increase the in places consumers would not expect
format, but the caveat tends to be cost exclusivity of a product and still – such as using packaging to bring
and resources. If money is no object, it reduce material resources.” delight to the daily beauty routine.
is easy to conceive a bold new product Another major breakthrough improved Kao’s Evita Beauty Whip Soap, a
and release it. But this is rarely the the experience of the product, and Japanese-market launch from Kanebo
case; everything costs time and money. also provided a whole-new market of Cosmetics, is a perfect example.
From searching patent and intellectual packaging and products that were According to Price, “The packaging
property records to ensure the new idea designed to be promoted by users on for the soap delivers the need for a
is exactly that, to engineering, designing social media, came from the ground- rich, velvety facial cleansing foam and
and developing the product. It can take breaking launch of Kao Corporation’s brings extra delight to the consumer
years, depending on the complexity. Kanebo brand. through the aerosol packaging and
unique dispensing head, which creates
a beautiful rose shape with one easy
The more honest you are, the more effective pump. It is more than your normal
your communications will be. Transparency is face wash or foam cleanser. It
great if you have been telling the truth but not brings the element of 'wow' through
packaging innovation.”
so good if you’ve been lying.
– Mark Constantine, Lush The truth will set you free
Sometimes it is surprising who leads the
Tarrant confirms, “To me, Laura K Price, senior package results for most admired brands. Apple,
premiumisation can be founded in development engineer, research BMW and Nike are a constant when
something as simple as changing the and development for Kao USA, says, consumers are surveyed. However, Mark
consumer experience. For example, “Kao USA and its parent company, Constantine, co-founder and managing
our CoverGirl was designed with the Kao Corporation, put considerable director of Lush, believes thinking
ergonomics of the user in mind. It importance on developing innovative differently and rewriting the rules is
features a bi-injected, soft-touch cap for packaging daily and strive to be the a wonderful way to eschew the big
precision and control, along with edge- creators of continuous innovation. boys and forge a desire line for a new
to-edge stamping on the bottle and cap We endeavour to develop products premium brand.
to complete the look. Another example is and brands to maximise consumer “As a small brand, you are wasting
our Playboy SkinTouch deodorant, which satisfaction by determining the needs money if you try to advertise or match
is redesigned from a traditional aerosol of consumers. We always incorporate the bigger players. We’ve tried, and it
In developing a premium-look aerosol for their Playboy range, with a fully lockable cap, Coty also managed to reduce the amount of material required.
16 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com
CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 16 13/07/2018 09:23Insight > Luxury
has been ineffective and expensive.
It is wonderful if you have £1 billion
to mount your campaign, as you can
blanket all markets and communication,
but that is a very small circle.”
While Lush now generates over
£300 million in revenue, across
50 countries, describing the company Estée Lauder's new make-up brush has a wealth of new design technologies that give it an edge.
as small is still relative and accurate –
L’Oréal is over 100 times its size. has been to one of its shops can attest, global package development for Estée
While advertising might be seen as a Lush relishes unconventional display, Lauder, explains the science behind
playground for the mega companies, vivid colours and textures that make the magic.
Lush has achieved its status in the consumer feel as though they are “The cushion stick package is
spite of actively not taking part. How in a market stall or bazaar, rather than designed to apply and blend-in liquid
is this achieved? a high-end cosmetics store. However, foundation in simple gestures, whether
“You have to deliver on the promise as the brand ethos is to provide fresh, at home or on the go. Due to the unique
of your products and ethos, and keep handmade cosmetics, it is a sign of design, the package allows consumers
to your message,” says Constantine. “To being attuned to the market that their to apply a full face of make-up or to use
most customers, cosmetics are hard to layout is evocative of artisanal grocers. where needed. The turning mechanism
differentiate, and most people think of Underscoring all of this, as allows consumers to have better
products as very changeable. You have Constantine sees it, is communication control over the amount of product
to be distinct, transparent and restore with complete honesty. “The more and coverage as they propel and
people’s faith in human nature, and honest you are, the more effective your repel the stick.” To overcome hygiene
convince people that companies can communications will be. Transparency concerns that many traditional cushion
do the right thing too.” is great if you have been telling the compacts have, Estée Lauder’s product
has a removable sponge head that
allows the consumer to wash the
Being a brand 100% developed by women applicator as needed.
for women, we will be taking an even more active Tobin explains, “One of the initial
challenges was developing a system
role in not only consuming products, but in the that combines two unique forms –
creation, production and even distribution. a foundation package and a sponge
– Grace Fodor, Studio 10 applicator – into one affordable package.
Another challenge was to provide an
Strong opinions and beliefs are the truth but not so good if you’ve been acceptable label claim while maintaining
key to staying current without a high lying. Companies who use advertising an ergonomic shape for consumers
advertising spend, but it does not end to say they are something they are not to apply foundation to the face with
there. The company carries a willingness were never in control of the brand in only one hand.” The design required
to engage with journalists and media the first place.” a simplified mechanism to allow
on any topics they wish – totally at odds It is this school of thought above consumers to hold with one hand but
with the industry norm. Constantine all that has allowed Lush to move from also provide a large enough opening
explains, “We are the only mid- quirky start-up to premium cosmetics to fill the product on its high-speed
sized cosmetics company where the brand and continue to grow in a market production line. Both of these challenges
formulator is also the boss, which gives shared with giants. were answered by the final design.
the brand its experiential and homemade “Lastly, consumers also want to know
feel. Each cosmetics brand has its own Two for one how much of their foundation has been
strengths and weaknesses. L’Occitane Another way for a brand to occupy used and how much is left. Thus, we
is great at packaging, The Body Shop the premium sector is to enhance the developed a very unique attribute of this
does discount marketing very well – experience of the user, by improving package – the body gets smaller as the
we all have different styles. At Lush, we products or promising more exclusivity product is used. As the product’s height
formulate, work like hell on the quality of than others in the field. No stranger to is lowered during usage, it becomes
the ingredients and focus on making the innovation or experiential marketing, more compact and even more
finished product as effective as possible. Estée Lauder has recently capitalised convenient for on the go. Another benefit
We want to serve our customers.” on the single pack make-up plus pro- of the design is that by turning the body
This creates a product that is tool trend with their Double Wear Nude of the package into the base, it achieves
fundamentally different. As anyone who Cushion Stick. Tim Tobin, director of near full evacuation of the product.”
Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 17
CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 17 13/07/2018 09:23You can also read
