Colombia Trip Report 1000 Birds Mega Tour - Rockjumper Birding Tours
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Colombia
1000 Birds Mega Tour
31st January to 29th February 2020 (30 days)
Trip Report
Antioquia Brushfinch by Stephan Lorenz
Trip report compiled by Tour Leader: Stephan Lorenz
Trip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 2
Tour Summary
The list of highlights for this Colombia Mega Tour was long, not surprisingly, since we recorded nearly
950 species. The top bird of the tour as chosen by participants was the Hooded Antpitta with honorable
mentions given to Blue-billed and Black Curassows, Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle, Rufescent Screech
Owl, Fiery Topaz, White-tipped Quetzal,
Collared Puffbird, Toucan Barbet, and Guianan
Cock-of-the-rock. The tour was also filled with
surprises and many firsts for the tour, most
notably Rio Negro Gnatcatcher in Mitu, a rare
bird that has only been recorded a handful of
times in Colombia, and the recently
rediscovered Antioquia Brushfinch. We were
treated to lengthy studies of this endangered
brushfinch with no less than six seen at the site
of rediscovery north of Medellin. Some other
fun statistics are that we recorded an
astonishing 83 species of hummingbirds, 53
species of ovenbirds, and 55 species of antbirds,
which are always a favorite. Another surprise
were the 11 species of tapaculos, all of which
were seen with good to excellent views, quite a
feat! The tour encompassed nearly the entire
length and breadth of Colombia, ranging from
the steamy Amazon around Mitu to the freezing
Hooded Antpitta by Stephan Lorenz
paramo in the Sierra Los Nevados, the cloud
forests in between, through lowland jungle and dry forests of the Magdalena and Cauca Valleys, and
ending in the endemic rich Santa Marta Mountains with a grand finale in the desert scrub of the Guajira
Peninsula. We amassed an astounding total of more than 900 species, including around 60 country
endemics and 75 near-endemics. Although the weather provided some challenges with much fog and
wind in the highlands and dry conditions in the lowlands, we persisted, returning home with a treasure
trove of birding memories.
___________________________________________________________________________________
Tour in Detail
Since everyone arrived a day or several hours early, we decided to start the tour with some extra birding
at the productive Laguna Tabacal near Bogota. We met midmorning after everyone had the opportunity
to check-in and, following introductions, tackled our first section of Bogota traffic. Fortunately, the
traffic was not too slow, and we were soon rolling out of Bogota towards the lower Andean slopes to the
west of the city. We reached the reserve just after lunchtime and entered along the main trail. Here, we
quickly located the endemic and range-restricted Velvet-fronted Euphonia with two males and a female
offering close studies. We then followed one of the narrower trails recording plenty of excellent species
along the way, including Plain Antvireo, heard only Jet Antbird, and White-bellied Antbird that showed
exceedingly well for such a skulking species. Other finds included White-bearded Manakin, Sooty-
headed and Golden-faced Tyrannulets, localized Speckle-breasted Wren, Grey-headed Tanager, the near-
endemic Scrub Tanager, and several migrant warblers rounded out our visit to Laguna Tabacal. We then
continued to Jardin Encantado, an impressive set of hummingbird feeders in a small town on the way
back towards Bogota. We did not have as much time as we had hoped for, but still found ten species of
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Trip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 3
hummingbirds with the endemic Indigo-capped
Hummingbird being abundant and a handful of
Gorgeted Woodstars present, the only locality where we
recorded that species. Afterward, we traveled back to
Bogota where we enjoyed a delicious welcome dinner
and the official start to the tour at the hotel.
Our first full day of the tour started with an early
departure and breakfast on the road from the hotel, a
routine we would follow for the next four weeks. Our
main destination for the day was the Chingaza area to
the east of Bogota where a mixture of paramo, cloud
forest, scrub, and wetlands hold a variety of specialties
and endemics. We, of course, focused on the endemics
of the area and in between tried to scoop up as many
species as possible. After a nearly two-hour journey, we
arrived at the high point on the road towards the
Bioandina area and were greeted by thick fog and
drizzle, which persisted for most of the morning. We got
right into the birding though and after some searching Golden-faced Tyrannulet by Stephan Lorenz
found the Ochre-breasted Brushfinch and very localized
species on this itinerary. We also added our first Andean Guans, Band-tailed Pigeon, Golden-headed
Quetzal that showed very well despite the fog, a pair of showy Black-billed Mountain Toucans, flighty
Smoky-brown Woodpecker, and Slaty Brushfinch. After reaching the open habitat along the road, we
birded the edge of the scrub and forest patches getting good views of Glowing and Coppery-bellied
Pufflegs, Blue-throated Starfrontlet, Mountain Velvetbreast, responsive Pale-naped Brushfinches, and
Black and White-sided Flowerpiercers. We
walked back down along the road for quite
some distance, a strategy that proved
successful since we found two or three
feeding flocks that included the stunning
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Pearled
Treerunner, Green-and-black Fruiteater,
White-banded, White-throated, and Black-
capped Tyrannulets, Rufous-breasted and
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrants, Grey-breasted
Wood-Wren, Golden-fronted Whitestart,
Superciliaried Hemispingus, Hooded and
Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers, and Blue-
capped and Blue-and-black Tanagers, wow
what a great haul of birds. Yet, despite the
busy morning, we were still missing the main
Green-and-black Fruiteater by Stephan Lorenz
target of the area, the endangered and
endemic Flame-winged Parakeet. The weather had not improved, but we did not want to give up. We
wandered down the road a bit and then back up, deciding to take a short break for water and snacks by
the van paid off when a small flock of parakeets shot into a tree downslope. We quickly got onto them
with binoculars, but they flew before the scope was ready. Luckily, they came towards us and landed
very close to the road for some of the best views possible of this scarce species — in the end, our
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persistence paid off. With the major target under our belts,
we drove back to a nearby town and enjoyed a local lunch.
Then we carried on to the Siecha Gravel Pits, despite the
unpromising name this is one of the best sites for the
impressive Noble Snipe. The surroundings of the gravel pits
and marshes are changing fast and we had to wait for
permission from a local landowner to enter. While we
waited to enter, a pair of Whistling Herons flew by at a
distance and we had excellent views, an unexpected species
for the area and big surprise on this itinerary. At first, things
looked dry from a distance, but once we got nearer it was
clear that water and the birds were still present. On the open
water, we quickly found Blue-winged and Andean Teals,
Andean Duck, Pied-billed Grebe, and in the reed-fringed
wetlands, we instantly lured out the endemic Bogota Rail,
found half-dozen Noble Snipes and a single migrant
Wilson’s Snipe. In the reeds and nearby fields, we also
added Yellow-hooded Blackbird and Grassland Yellow
Finch as a bonus. After such fast-paced birding, we moved
on to the Observatorio de Colibris, where we enjoyed a
relaxed hour or two of watching a diverse array of Spotted Puffbird by Stephan Lorenz
hummingbirds visiting the well-placed feeders. In fact, we
would visit more than a dozen hummingbird feeder setups before the tour was over, each with their own
set of species and specialties. While overall hummingbird activity was low in terms of numbers, a trend
that continued throughout the tour, overall diversity was excellent and we got exactly what we came for.
While some species were only present in singles or twos, we enjoyed great views of Sparkling Violetear,
Black-tailed and Green-tailed Trainbearers, Tyrian Metaltail, Glowing, and Coppery-bellied Pufflegs,
Blue-throated Starfrontlet, the one-of-a-kind Sword-billed Hummingbird, Great Sapphirewing, and
White-bellied Woodstar. Before the final
return to Bogota, we made one more strategic
stop to catch up with excellent views of the
endemic and occasionally tricky Silvery-
throated Spinetail. After such a long day
filled with lifers, we welcomed a celebratory
dinner back at the hotel in Bogota.
Today was mainly a travel day, with an early
afternoon flight scheduled to Mitu and the
Colombian Amazon. We had plans to make
the most of the morning by visiting the
Parque La Florida near the airport. We
arrived at dawn and soon entered the park,
heading straight toward the most productive
section of the wetland. The best finds on the
Rusty-breasted Nunlet by Stephan Lorenz
open water and in the reed-filled marshes
included locally scarce Lesser Scaup, more Bogota Rails, Spot-flanked Gallinules that showed well,
migrant Sora, several shorebirds, and after some dedicated scanning, a single Subtropical Doradito.
Carefully scoping the distant trees revealed roosting Merlin and Peregrine Falcon. Since we had extra
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Trip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 5
time, we slowly walked through the woodland and birded the hedgerows, finding Black Phoebe, Andean
Siskin, the ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow, Yellow-backed Oriole, American Yellow Warbler, and
best of the all, the near-endemic Rufous-
browed Conebill that came very close. We
transferred to the airport and had lunch there
before proceeding to the gate to wait for our
Satena flight to Mitu. Unfortunately, after
several delays, the flight was canceled due to
weather. We were rescheduled for the
following morning and then transferred back
to our familiar hotel in Bogota where we
retired right after an early dinner.
We began the journey back to the airport very
early and arrived with plenty of time to spare.
The Satena flight was delayed again, but
fortunately not canceled this time and we
soon found ourselves airborne heading
towards Mitu, where a huge list of new birds
Moustached Brushfinch by Stephan Lorenz
was waiting for us. We landed midmorning in
Mitu and quickly transferred to the hotel to ready our gear for a full morning of birding. We ate a quick
to-go lunch and then were on the trail in the famous Mitu Cacheveira area. We had not walked twenty
steps towards the small wooden bridge when we spotted a Spotted Puffbird that perched in the open
literally at arm’s length, an excellent start. The open area around the community and forest edges held
nonstop activity and we had great views of Plain-breasted Ground Dove, Grey-fronted Dove, Smooth-
billed Ani, Yellow-tufted and Lineated
Woodpeckers, a flock of Maroon-tailed
Parakeets feeding contently in a palm, a single
White-banded Swallow, Yellow-browed
Sparrow, and Silver-beaked, Palm and
Turquoise Tanagers. Despite warm
temperatures, the birding didn’t slow down
along the trail either and we found several
Mitu and white sand forest specialties,
including a surprise Rufous-throated
Sapphire, a Black-and-white Hawk Eagle
being harassed by a Bat Falcon, making for
one of the most memorable moments of the
tour, Green-backed Trogon, Bronzy Jacamar,
Scale-breasted Woodpecker, remarkably
tame Amazonian Antshrike, and vivid
Paradise Tanagers. We lured in several flocks
that swarmed around the speaker and those
included Cherrie's and Spot-backed
Mottled Owl by Stephan Lorenz
Antwrens, Rufous-browed Peppershrike,
Brown-headed Greenlet, a Mitu specialty, Rufous-bellied Euphonia, and Purple and Red-legged
Honeycreepers. One of the biggest surprises of the day and possibly of the entire tour was a trio of Rio
Negro Gnatcatchers that moved rapidly through the canopy. Everyone managed good views, but
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Trip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 6
unfortunately no photos, of what marked one of the very few observations of this rare species in
Colombia, at this point all undocumented. During the afternoon, we boarded a small boat and
maneuvered downstream along the Vaupés River towards the small community of Urania. We focused
our birding efforts on the riparian forest along
a small inlet, first by boat and then on foot.
We were rewarded with great studies of
several specialties restricted to riverside
vegetation most notably a responsive pair of
Blackish-grey Antshrikes, tiny Amazonian
Streaked-Antwren that eventually came in, a
Black-chinned Antbird that almost hit us as it
shot across the open water, a pair of habitat-
specific Amazonian Inezia, and Drab Water
Tyrants. In the nearby canopy, we located a
colorful Yellow-bellied Dacnis. We motored
back towards the main dock in Mitu as
hundreds of Common Nighthawks took to the
evening sky. We settled in for dinner at a local
restaurant where we would enjoy every dinner
while in Mitu.
We left Mitu well before daylight, heading Northern Screamer by Stephan Lorenz
out of town along the longest stretch of road
available with the goal of reaching the Tayasu area by daybreak. Arriving at the perfect time at a stakeout,
a small bridge across a blackwater stream, we waited only a few minutes until the hoped for Fiery Topaz
appeared, first a female and then a stunning male that stuck around for many minutes. Afterward, we
headed to the productive Tayasu Road, where lots of activity kept us busy for the remainder of the
morning. Overall it was an incredibly diverse day with
more than 100 species recorded. Some of the highlights
we found during the morning included Speckled
Chachalaca, White-fronted Nunbird, Yellow-billed
Jacamar, Gilded and Lemon-throated Barbets, Ivory-
billed Aracari, Black-capped Becard, Rusty-fronted,
and Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatchers, Dusky-chested
Flycatcher, a nice array of tanagers, and a bonus Slate-
colored Grosbeak that just appeared in the open! A pair
of Pectoral Sparrows were secretive but eventually
showed well. As we walked into a drier section of
forest, we lucked onto a quiet Chestnut Woodpecker.
We even managed brief flight views of a Grey-legged
Tinamou that almost crossed the road in front of us, but
of course spooked the second it noticed us, still this
marked the first time it has actually been seen on the
tour. Three Dusky-billed Parrotlets flew over briefly,
but better yet, we saw Red-fan Parrots very well.
Focusing on the denser forest, small streams, and
thickets we amassed an excellent list of antbirds many
Spectacled Parrotlet by Stephan Lorenz of which revealed themselves very well, including
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Mouse-colored, Amazonian and Cinereous
Antshrikes, and Rufous-backed, Rufous-
tailed, Pygmy, White-flanked and Grey
Antwrens, Imeri Warbling, Dusky, Grey,
Silvered, Black-throated and White-cheeked
Antbirds. What an incredible nonstop
morning and at times we didn’t know where
to look first! For lunch, we went to a local
farm where we enjoyed a traditional meal and
added some open country birds to our list
while resting in the shade, for example,
Black-tailed Tityra. During the late afternoon,
we explored a section of trail leading through
tall terra firme forest where we scored scope
views of Collared Puffbird and Great
Jacamar, plus small understory flocks. We Blue-billed Curassow by Stephan Lorenz
drove back in the late afternoon and stopped
at a roadside forest patch where a Wing-barred Piprites called distantly. Incredibly, although it took some
patience, the piprites came in very close and it was a bonus to get such great views of this canopy dweller.
After another slight delay, we eventually arrived back in Mitu after dark and had dinner at the familiar
restaurant in town.
We left Mitu again well before sunrise to drive back to the Tayasu area with plans to spend more time
on the narrow trail winding its way through the productive terra firme forest. We planned to focus on
forest interior species. During the first hour or two of the morning, we birded the same sections again
along the narrow road and incredibly the diversity of species was strikingly different compared to the
day before. Some of the highlights included Blue Ground Dove, a Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner showed
very well, White-lored Tyrannulet, an approachable flock
of Azure-naped Jay was very welcome, four species of
euphonia, and deep blue Rothschild’s Grosbeak. Tanagers
were flocking to the fruiting trees along the forest edge
and included a colorful array of species: Silver-beaked,
Blue-grey, Palm, Yellow-bellied, Masked, Turquoise, and
Paradise. Not surprisingly, we also added an excellent
variety of antbirds in the shady, tall forest with the top
sightings being the scarce Pearly and Dusky-throated
Antshrikes, vocal Yellow-throated Antwren, spectacular
close views of Black-faced Antbird, and a brief Chestnut-
crested Antbird. In some open patches and along the trail
we recorded an excellent variety of hummingbirds,
including Black-eared Fairy, Black-throated Brilliant,
Gould's Jewelfront, Fork-tailed Woodnymph,
Versicolored Emerald, and White-chinned Sapphire. We
then spent the rest of the morning walking slowly along
the trail and while activity was quiet at times some of the
best finds included Red-necked and Yellow-throated
Woodpeckers, heard only Pavonine Quetzal, a
Black-billed Flycatcher by Stephan Lorenz cooperative Rusty-breasted Nunlet seen at close quarters,
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Trip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 8
and a mimicking Lawrence's Thrush that we pulled into
view several times. We went to lunch at the hydroelectric
station where a Many-banded Aracari greeted us and we
found the localized Black-collared Swallow at the river
rapids. After a quick stop back in town, we went to the
Urania Bridge area where we located several new species
that prefer open habitats, including Lettered Aracari, great
scope views of a Black-headed Parrot after a bit of
maneuvering, and the only Red-bellied Macaws flew over.
Along the edges of the secondary forest, we added nest-
building Grey Elaenia, Slender-footed Tyrannulet and
more. Waiting until dusk was productive with a Short-tailed
Nighthawk that offered excellent flight views. It was
another long and eventful day with more than 100 species
found and we enjoyed the well-earned dinner back in Mitu.
We started early but targeted an area much closer to Mitu
along the Bocatoma Trail. The trail is actually a narrow side
road leading through a variety of forests towards a hilltop
viewpoint. The weather was mixed today with high
Bare-crowned Antbird by Stephan Lorenz
temperatures and windy conditions early on, changing to
strong rainstorms in the afternoon, but we persisted and were rewarded with some excellent sightings.
During the morning, we birded our way through tall forests up towards the hilltop and found several new
species for our growing list along the way, including roosting Blackish
Nightjars at the top of the hill, Red-throated Caracara, another Pearly
Antshrike, we had great luck with this rare species, Long-winged
Antwren, responsive Yellow-browed Antbird, Common Scale-backed
Antbird right in front of us, diminutive White-browed Purpletuft, White-
crested Spadebill that responded well but was difficult to spot, and
Fulvous-crested Tanager. From the lookout area at the top, we found a
Spangled Cotinga and locally scarce White-necked Puffbird. During the
afternoon, we returned to a nearby area called Cerrito Verde, but a strong
thunderstorm prevented us from setting out right away. After waiting for
a few minutes for the weather to improve, we started the hike towards a
known cock-of-the-rock lek. The trail was heavily overgrown at first, but
we made steady progress. With persisting rain and very dark clouds bird
activity had shut down completely, but once we entered the taller forest
we found the first Guianan Cock-of-the-rock. Hoping for better views,
we continued hiking through a very dark and quiet forest. After some ups
and downs, we reached the overhanging boulders and the cock-of-the-
rock lek where a female perched on a nest in the shady gloom of the
overhang. As we advanced to look for the vivid males our local guide
spotted something as he walked out from underneath the overhang and
got very excited. Based on his explanation I figured he had spotted a
Rufous Motmot
by Stephan Lorenz
Spix’s Guan, but then briefly got onto a large cracid in a tree right above
us. From what I had glimpsed as the bird quickly took off I realized it
was a curassow. Due to the hunting pressure, no curassow species is realistically expected in Mitu, so
we were very excited. Fortunately, we were able to track the shy bird as it moved through the low canopy
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Trip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 9
and eventually had excellent views of a male Black Curassow, a definite first for any Rockjumper Tour
in Colombia. We even managed some record photos to boot. After all this excitement our minds returned
to the Guianan Cock-of-the-rock and luckily at least two
males had settled into their regular area and allowed close
approach and photos. The hike out was extremely quiet as
the darkening clouds hung low over the forest and cut off all
light, but we returned to the vehicles in time. A smallish Fer-
de-lance along the trail was the final excitement of the day.
We returned to Mitu and quickly went to rest after dinner.
This was our final morning of birding in the Mitu area and
we returned very early to the Mitu Cacheveira area in order
to look for some of the white-sand forest specialties we were
still missing. We first birded in the open area and along the
forest edges near the community and it took some time
before we entered the forest because bird activity was
incredibly high. Some of the better finds in the open habitats
included an immature Bicolored Hawk, another Red-necked
Woodpecker, very close Orange-cheeked Parrots, the only
Amazonian Umbrellabird, and Yellow-throated Flycatcher.
We then worked our way systematically along the trail and
were able to add several specialties here, most notably
Broad-billed Motmot by Stephan Lorenz
Rufous-throated Sapphire, better views of Cherrie’s and
Spot-backed Antwrens, skulking Grey-bellied Antbird, very rare Duida Woodcreeper, super views of
Black and Yellow-crowned Manakins, canopy-loving White-eyed Tody-Tyrant, Fuscous Flycatcher, the
unique Citron-bellied Attila, a quartet of Opal-rumped Tanagers, and the uncommon Short-billed
Honeycreeper. With limited time, we rushed down the trail to get to an area for the scarce Saffron-crested
Tyrant Manakin and fortunately the bird was
already calling when we arrived. We spotted
it within moments and had excellent scope
views of this Mitu specialty. While we
quickly headed back towards the start of the
trail, a distinctive call stopped us suddenly
and soon enough we had a pair of Rufous-
tailed Flatbills in our binoculars, another
rarely recorded species. During the walkout,
we stumbled across a Variegated Tinamou
that stayed around long enough for everyone
to see it. Back in Mitu, we made one final stop
and successfully tracked down a Point-tailed
Palmcreeper that showed really well. What a
fitting finish to our Amazon adventure and we
Choco Screech Owl by Stephan Lorenz
headed back to the hotel to pack up. We
arrived at the airport in good time, but our Satena flight was again delayed, luckily not more than two
hours and soon enough we were flying back towards Bogota. Here we enjoyed a lavish dinner and then
off to bed since we had a traditional early start ahead of us.
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Trip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 10
We had an early afternoon flight to Bucaramanga and a
transfer to the famous Reinita Azul Reserve. With plans
to use the morning to visit the Parque Natural Chicaque,
we left the hotel early and reached the park by sunrise.
During a few hours of birding along the entrance road,
we added Lesser Violetear, Tourmaline Sunangel, Ash-
colored and Blackish Tapaculos, Cinnamon Flycatcher,
Moustached Brushfinch, Black-crested Warbler, Black-
eared and Superciliaried Hemispingus, Scarlet-bellied
and Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanagers, and Blue-and-
black and Beryl-spangled Tanagers. With a great
selection of new birds in the bag, we transferred to the
Bogota airport, arriving with plenty of time to enjoy a
leisurely lunch before our flight to Bucaramanga.
Fortunately, the flight was on time, allowing for a
productive birding stop during the drive towards the
Reinita Azul Reserve. We stopped near a reservoir and
birded along a small side road leading through dry
forest. Here we quickly found several new species with
highlights being Red-billed Emerald, Great Black Red-bellied Grackle by Stephan Lorenz
Hawk, Olivaceous Piculet, Spectacled Parrotlet, Long-
tailed Tyrant, Scrub Greenlet, Bicolored Wren, Rufous-capped Warbler, Crimson-backed and Yellow-
backed Tanagers, and Streaked Saltator. The thickets held a trio of antshrikes, including Great, Barred,
and the endemic Bar-crested. The densest vegetation held vocal Jet Antbirds of which a pair showed very
well and a White-fringed Antwren hopped into the open on its own. With daylight waning, we returned
to the van and continued the drive to San Vicente de Chucurí. Upon arrival, we transferred to two jeeps
and then tackled the steep road to the Reinita
Azul lodge, arriving just in time for dinner.
The early morning started with a bit of owling
in the lodge gardens where everyone was able
to catch up with a cooperative Mottled Owl.
After breakfast, we started our walk down
through a mixture of forest patches, scrub and
cacao plantations. This habitat is incredibly
productive and we ended up recording 120
species before the day was over. Right from
the beginning, we targeted some range-
restricted specialties and endemics and
enjoyed fantastic views of Colombian
Chachalaca, Niceforo's Wren, Black-headed
Brushfinch after some effort, at least three
Cerulean Warblers, Plain-colored Tanager,
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant by Stephan Lorenz and record numbers of the endemic Turquoise
Dacnis, they were literally everywhere. More widespread species that were new for our list included
Striped Cuckoo, Collared Aracari, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Pale-breasted Spinetail, Ochre-bellied
Flycatcher, Slaty-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Attila, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Streaked
Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Rufous-naped Greenlet, Band-backed Wren, Yellow-tailed
Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to ColombiaTrip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 11
Oriole, and Black-winged Saltator. The open
cacao plantations always attract a wide
variety of thrushes and we were not
disappointed recording Swainson's, Pale-
breasted, Yellow-legged, Pale-vented and
Black-billed. Further down the road, we
successfully located a Beautiful Woodpecker,
a sought-after endemic. We returned to the
lodge for lunch and a bit of leisurely garden
birding before heading back out to a different
section of cacao plantations. In the lodge
gardens, the hummingbird feeders attracted
White-necked Jacobin, Green Hermit, Brown
Violetear, Black-throated Mango, Green-
crowned Brilliant, White-vented
Plumeleteer, Crowned Woodnymph, Andean Apical Flycatcher by Stephan Lorenz
Emerald, Indigo-capped and Rufous-tailed
Hummingbirds. In the grassy pasture above the lodge, we heard Ash-throated Crake, a first for the Mega
tour. During the afternoon, we were able to add a handful of species including White-tipped Swift, a
Black Hawk-Eagle circling next to the road, and a Short-tailed Hawk soaring high above. We returned
to the main road and again walked down to see if we could add some species we missed during the
morning. Just as the light was beginning to fade we added a pair of Slaty Spinetails. We finished this
action-packed day with a bit of owling and all
enjoyed excellent studies of a Tropical Screech
Owl right before dinner.
We had an adventurous morning ahead of us as
we began our long day well before sunrise. We
planned to bird in the oak and subtropical forest
in the Reinita Azul Reserve. In order to reach
the reserve that lies upslope from the lodge, we
used horses to tackle the steep access trail. After
a wonderful and leisurely horse ride underneath
a full moon, we arrived at the entrance to the
forest before sunrise. We focused our efforts
first on the feeder set up in the forest. Here, we
watched a Lined Quail-Dove and Chestnut-
headed Brushfinches come to a wood quail
feeder, but the Gorgeted Wood Quails remained
heard only as they called deep from a ravine. We
then started the hike up the main trail, taking our
time on the slippery track where a Ruddy Quail-
Toucan Barbet by Stephan Lorenz
Dove was a definite surprise. The first endemic
we found for the morning was a cooperative
Magdalena Tapaculo that even came out of the mossy tangles to sit on the trail, some of the best views
of any tapaculo for all of us. A bit further up the trail, a hummingbird buzzing around in a thicket turned
out to be the locally rare Geoffroy's Wedgebill. A small feeding flock early on held Plumbeous-crowned
Tyrannulet. The haul of antbirds for the day included Uniform Antshrike, Plain Antvireo, and Slaty
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Antwren, while we also found several new species of ovenbirds
with Plain Xenops, Buff-fronted and Montane Foliage-
gleaners, and Ash-browed Spinetail being the highlights. Near
the top of the trail, a corner that often proves productive, held
Golden-winged Manakin, a flock of Inca Jays, Whiskered
Wren, Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, and Ornate Flycatcher.
Among a slew of tanagers that we recorded the Speckled and
Flame-faced were somewhat unexpected and welcome bonuses.
During the hike out, we finally got a response from a Crested
Quetzal that flew right overhead, a dramatic vista of its
glittering green and vivid red among the moss-draped cloud
forest. We walked back down the trail and then followed the
track that leads through the open pastures towards the lodge.
We arrived back at the lodge in the late afternoon after nearly a
full day of birding. We continued to watch the activity in the
lodge gardens and added Cocoa Woodcreeper and Guira
Tanager. There was a large amount of activity in the early
evening as birds seemed to take advantage of an insect
emergence and it was enjoyable to sit back, watching a variety
of species come to the forest edge, while a large flock of White-
tipped Swift coursed overhead. Masked Trogon by Stephan Lorenz
We started the day with a more leisurely sit down breakfast and then packed up the jeeps for our journey
back to town where we would meet the van. With a long journey ahead of us we planned to make just a
few strategic stops. First up was a stop beyond town at a lower elevation site that held some humid forest.
Our target was already calling on arrival and after a patient wait, we managed excellent views of the
canopy dwelling Yellow-browed Shrike-Vireo. Additional new finds included a covey of Crested
Bobwhites in the middle of the road and a pair of heard only Barred Puffbirds. We made another stop in
a section of the lower forest that was a mixture of humid thickets and dry woodland near a large reservoir.
Here, we picked up a few species that are uncommon on this itinerary including Barred Antshrike,
Cinnamon Becard, Ruddy-breasted
Seedeater, and Thick-billed Seed-Finch. We
kept an eye out for raptors as we drove
through the open Magdalena valley and were
rewarded with Lesser Yellow-headed
Vulture, and Savanna and Zone-tailed
Hawks. After making excellent time, we
stopped for lunch before Puerto Boyaca and
enjoyed delicious buffalo burgers, a nice
change from the regular Colombian fare.
While we waited for our food, we checked the
garden for birds and picked up the only
Cinereous Becard of the trip. It was then time
to transfer to the famous Chiva, these large
trucks carry passengers to even the most
White-headed Wren by Stephan Lorenz remote communities and we were able to bird
along the entrance road towards the El Paujil Reserve, taking advantage of the wide-open views from the
vehicle. New additions to the trip list came fast as we drove through open pastures and made several
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stops in the productive wetlands along the way. Some of the best finds included Northern Screamer,
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, Greater Anis present in good numbers, a pair of Grey-cowled Wood Rails
in the open, Purple Gallinule, Russet-throated
Puffbird, Pale-legged Hornero, Yellow-
chinned Spinetail, Pied Water-Tyrant, White-
headed Marsh Tyrant, Red-breasted
Meadowlark, and Orange-crowned and
Yellow Orioles. While the marsh was fairly
dry compared to previous years, the Black-
capped Donacobius was still on the territory.
Parrots are always well represented in the
open habitats with scattered palms and we
found Orange-chinned Parakeet, Blue-headed
Parrot, Mealy and Orange-winged Amazons,
Spectacled Parrotlet, and Chestnut-fronted
Macaw. A stop at a strip of riparian woodland
netted us close views of another canopy
species, a pair of Black-headed Tody-
Flycatchers. A small flock of Black-chested
Jay passed through also. We reached the
entrance road to the reserve just after nightfall
and transferred into jeeps for the remainder of
Orange-breasted Fruiteater by Stephan Lorenz
the journey. It took only another ten minutes
before we reached the lodge and settled in. The excitement about the following day was palpable as we
ate a delicious dinner and went to get some rest.
Our day started before breakfast as we met in the dark to do
some owling along the main trail. It was a very productive
morning as several species of owls, nightjars, and potoos were
calling vigorously. First, we tracked down a locally rare Choco
Screech Owl that was visible through a small window in the
dense vegetation, fortunately, we were able to see it call, the
only way to ensure identification. Next up, we tracked down
both Common and Great Potoos that showed very well in the
spotlight. Four other species of owls, including Tropical
Screech, Mottled, Spectacled, and Crested remained heard
only. We returned to the lodge for breakfast and then waited for
the star bird of the reserve, the critically endangered Blue-billed
Curassow. Fortunately, several birds have become accustomed
to the lodge grounds and one female was even bringing chicks
to the lodge, while several males cavorted on the lawn and even
perched atop the restaurant gazebo. In all, we saw ten
curassows and enjoyed many great photo opportunities. We
then headed up the main trail to look for the many targets on
offer in this fantastic reserve. One of the first specialties to
show was a pair of Black-billed Flycatchers that came really
Black Solitaire by Stephan Lorenz close, but we had to check two territories before we got a
response from the localized Black Antshike. The male of which
Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to ColombiaTrip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 14
showed very well. Additional antbirds we
added included Checker-throated and White-
flanked Antwrens, and Chestnut-backed and
Bare-crowned Antbirds, the latter showed
especially well and was one of the favorites of
the morning. Russet-winged Schiffornis
called and Southern Bentbill showed in the
subcanopy. We continued our walk to the
main road where we turned left to bird along
the ridge, adding Swallow-tailed and
Plumbeous Kites, Rufous Motmots were
abundant, and we also lured in a single Broad-
billed Motmot. A calling Barred Puffbird
played hide and seek in the canopy, but was
eventually tracked down. A trio of trogons
was excellent with scope views of Black-
tailed, White-tailed and Gartered Trogons. Slaty-crowned Antpitta by Stephan Lorenz
White-mantled Barbets were truly reluctant, but again with persistence, we tracked one down. The
flowers and hummingbird feeders around the observation tower were pretty active and we added Blue-
chested and Shining-green Hummingbirds. A short loop trail brought us back to the lodge where we took
a short break before setting out again to bird a trail along a creek where we found Marbled Wood-Quail
and Choco Screech Owl by voice and saw another pair of Sooty-headed Ant-Tanagers. It had been a full
day with many rare endemics and specialties.
We spent the morning birding some of the narrower trails in the El Paujil Reserve, which proved
productive at first, but soon a chorus of cicadas started that was unlike anything I had ever experienced.
By 8:00 am bird song and activity was almost nil and a drone of calling insects permeated the forest. So
we decided to pack it in early on the trail and birded the more open lodge area a bit before loading our
gear into the jeep to return to the Chiva and the long haul back to the main road. Some of the highlights
along the trail included good views of Stripe-throated Hermit, Red-rumped Woodpecker, and a
responsive Black-striped Woodcreeper. We also spent some time on the observation tower where large
numbers of parrots were on the move including massive numbers of Bue-and-yellow and Chestnut-
fronted Macaws, Red-lored Amazons, plus Citron-throated and Yellow-throated Toucans. At the forest
edge around the lodge, we found a pair of
One-colored Becards and a Cinnamon
Becard. The Chiva ride out was largely
uneventful and we continued towards the Rio
Claro area with a stop for lunch. We checked
into our hotel before heading to the Cueva del
Condor area. This private farm harbors a
small stream that leads to an active Oilbird
cave, always a highlight of any birding visit
to the area. During the hike in, we found many
localized specialties and enjoyed great views
of all of them. The best finds included a
scoped Grey-cheeked Nunlet, a normally shy
Black-faced Antthrush showed well in the
Grey-browed Brushfinch by Stephan Lorenz undergrowth, and a Brownish Twistwing was
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still on the same territory as the year before.
The stream was fairly dry, but several puddles
attracted birds that came to drink and bathe in
the late afternoon. We thus managed point-
blank views of Buff-throated Foliage-
gleaner, Blue-crowned, White-bearded and
Golden-headed Manakins, Ochre-bellied,
Sepia-capped and Slaty-capped Flycatchers,
White-thighed Swallow, Orange-billed
Sparrow, and White-shouldered Tanager. At
the cavern itself, we watched dozens of
massive and screeching Oilbird circle near
the entrance of the cave. Near the start of the
trail, some Bicolored Antbirds were present.
As we crossed the pasture during the hike out
we chanced upon the first Rufous-tailed
Jacamar of the tour. Golden-winged Sparrow by Stephan Lorenz
The Canon del Rio Claro area offers a spectacular mix of species with several birds at the edge of their
range here as the distributions wrap around into the Magdalena Valley and there are of course several
range-restricted endemics. We planned to bird the humid lowland forest in the canyon itself and also visit
a new location giving access to hill forest at a slightly higher elevation. Overall, we recorded nearly 100
species for the day with many highlights. We started with an early breakfast at the hotel before
transferring to the reserve where we arrived right at sunrise. We covered the first section of trail following
the river further into the canyon and quickly located a pair of confiding Magdalena Antbirds, a localized
endemic. Other observations included a Bay Wren being followed by a fledged Shiny Cowbird, Buff-
rumped Warblers, Dusky-faced Tanagers were common, and Tawny-crested and Golden-hooded
Tanagers were part of the feeding flocks. A
Fasciated Tiger-Heron showed well on the far
side of the river at the last moment. We then
continued our walk along the main entrance
road where we found Pacific Antwren, had
good views of a calling Russet-winged
Schiffornis, Black-tailed Flycatcher, Black-
capped Pygmy-Tyrant, Long-tailed Tyrant,
and White-thighed Swallow. Woodcreepers
were present in good numbers with
Olivaceous, Plain-brown, Wedge-billed, and
Cocoa Woodcreepers all seen well. Once we
reached the main entrance we boarded the
vehicle and transferred a short distance to a
side road where we birded for the remainder of
the morning and ended up with excellent
studies of Scaled Pigeon, finally great views of
the endemic White-mantled Barbet, and
Striolated Manakins were common, with yet
another pair of Sooty Ant-Tanagers passing
Santa Marta Blossomcrown by Stephan Lorenz through. Unfortunately, our birding was
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eventually cut short by heavy rain and we
returned to the reserve. For the afternoon, we
returned to the main reserve where we tackled a
steep but short trail and were rewarded with
sightings of Rufous-breasted Hermit, Bronze-
tailed Plumeleteer, and a confiding pair of Grey-
cheeked Nunlets. During the late afternoon, we
persisted along the entrance road and finally had
good views of a pair of Cinnamon Woodpeckers
before having dinner at the reserve restaurant.
For the final morning in the Rio Claro area, we
decided to return to the side road beyond the
reserve and it was a productive morning. Upon
arrival, we found a calling Blue-lored Antbird, a
species rarely recorded on this itinerary, with
other good species including another Bronze-
tailed Plumeleteer, better scope views of Scaled
Pigeon, an unexpected Sooty-headed Wren, and
distant Swallow Tanagers. Not wanting to give Santa Marta Parakeet by Stephan Lorenz
up on one or two species we were still missing we
made another short stop at the main reserve and found another Beautiful Woodpecker. Due to road
closures in the Anori area, we were, unfortunately, unable to visit the Chestnut-capped Piha Reserve and
after some logistical changes continued to Medellin for the night. We arrived in the early evening after
having lunch at our hotel in Rio Claro and after a delicious
dinner went to sleep in preparation for an early start.
We left the hotel in Medellin two hours before sunrise in order
to leave enough time to arrive at a private farm to the north of
the city. The anticipation was high since we had managed to
organize a visit to the site where the long lost Antioquia
Brushfinch had been recently rediscovered. We met our local
guide Rodolfo, who is the original discovery, at the entrance
to his farm and we followed him along a farm track to one of
the territories of the brushfinch. Just as it was enough light to
see we could hear a brushfinch calling and a few minutes later
enjoyed excellent views of a pair, one of the highlights of the
tour. Incredibly, as we walked further through the farm
property we found at least four more birds on three more
territories, many of them offering excellent scope studies as
they sat up and sang in full view. In addition to the endangered
brushfinch we also added good views of Tyrian Metaltail,
White-tailed Hawk, Blackish Tapaculo, Azara's Spinetail,
Yellow-breasted Brushfinch, Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager,
and Black-throated and Bluish Flowerpiercers, while a Black-
Orinoco Saltator by Stephen Lorenz
billed Peppershrike remained heard only. After such excellent
views of the rare brushfinch in the bag, a species few birders have seen so far, and the relaxed birding
the rest of the morning it was time to drive south of Medellin. We reached our hotel south of the city
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right around lunchtime and enjoyed our meal
while waiting for the rooms to be ready. After
a short break, we headed to the nearby La
Romera Park and it turned out to be a
productive afternoon despite the warm
temperatures and windy conditions. The
highlights along the road winding its way
through the forest patches were the endemic
Red-bellied Grackle and Stiles’s Tapaculo
which again showed incredibly well for a
member of this skulky family. Other
additions to our list included Red-headed
Barbet, White-throated Toucanet, Golden-
olive Woodpecker, White-winged Becard,
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant, Golden-crowned
Flycatcher, White-naped Brushfinch, and
Black-capped Tanager. A calling Andean
Vermilion Cardinal by Stephan Lorenz
Solitaire was also very confiding, offering
extended scope studies. In the late evening, two Sickle-winged Guans showed well on their way to roost.
It was a short journey back to the hotel where we had dinner and then rested a bit after several days of
non-stop birding.
During the early morning, we returned briefly to La Romera Park before heading south of Medellin
towards the famous Las Tangaras Reserve. At the park, we only added heard Chestnut Wood-Quail, a
pair of Andean Motmots, and Three-striped Warbler. Unfortunately, we ran into some traffic delays south
of Medellin which delayed our arrival in the
Bolombolo area. We did manage to squeeze
in one stop along the highway where we
added Acorn Woodpecker and Western
Emerald. Once we reached the Bolombolo
area we explored a side road to look for some
of the Cauca Valley specialties. The habitat
here was dramatically different from
anything we had visited so far with dry
tropical forest and vine tangles covering a
steep slope. We quickly found two of the
three main targets in the form of a Greyish
Piculet that came very close and a pair of
Apical Flycatchers that was building a nest.
Other additions here included a brief
Moustached Puffbird, Scarlet-fronted
Parakeets, Greenish Elaenia, Chivi Vireo, and
Chestnut-winged Cinclodes by Stephan Lorenz
Tropical Gnatcatcher. Despite a lot of effort,
we only heard the Antioquia Wren, but we would find it during a second visit. We had lunch at the
famous La Mayoria and then checked another side road to see if we could find the Antioquia Wren, it
was very hot and if there were any wrens they were quiet. Yet, we did add some excellent species in the
form of Golden-collared Manakin, very rare on this itinerary, and Golden-crowned Warbler. The drive
to Las Tangaras was uneventful but lengthy as usual. We arrived at the well-placed lodge in the early
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evening and a vigil at the hummingbird feeders revealed that activity was very low, apparently, lots of
trees were flowering and hummingbirds were not visiting the feeder setups in any numbers. We still
managed to add Steely-vented Hummingbird to the list
before dinner.
The Las Tangaras Reserve managed by ProAves is one of
the finest birding locations in all of Colombia and we set
out from the lodge in two jeeps well before sunrise. We ate
a field breakfast as we waited for the cloud forest to slowly
awaken around us. We spent the morning walking the
entrance road until lunch and then took a break and lunch at
the hummingbird feeders. We also walked sections of the
trail leading through primary forest, which was at times
quiet, but still revealed an excellent variety of specialties.
Along the main road, we found Plumbeous Pigeons perched
at eye level, Moustached Puffbird, a pair of vociferous
Toucan Barbets, Rufous-rumped and Yellow-breasted
Antwrens, Uniform Antshrike, Lineated Foliage-gleaner,
Red-faced Spientail, Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant, Sepia-
brown Wren, Choco Brushfinch, and the intensely colored
Indigo Flowerpiercer. A Golden-winged Warbler even
made a brief appearance in one of the busier feeding flocks
and, after what seemed like ages, we found the endemic Rufescent Screech Owl by Stephan Lorenz
Black-and-gold Tanager. After locating the first one, we
kept seeing them of course. As the name suggests the reserve is famous for its tanager diversity and
rightfully so. On this single day, we recorded an astounding diversity of tanagers including Black-
chinned Mountain, Purplish-mantled, Gistening-green, Rufous-throated, Beryl-spangled, Saffron-
crowned, Golden, and Silver-throated. Some soft calls from a ravine alerted us to the presence of an
Ochre-breasted Antpitta which soon enough
was dancing right in front of us on a mossy
branch. We also continued with our great
success among tapaculos with the endemic
Tatama and Narino Tapaculos giving
excellent, extended views. In the clearing
between the road and the trail, we found a
busy feeding flock that harbored Crested
Quetzal, Masked Trogon, Yellow-vented
Woodpecker, Pacific Tuftedcheek, Marble-
faced Bristle-Tyrant, and the unique White-
headed Wren. The hummingbird feeders
attracted Violet-tailed Sylph, Greenish
Puffleg, Brown Inca, Velvet-purple Coronet,
Booted Racket-tail, Purple-bibbed Whitetip,
Empress Brilliant, Purple-throated Woodstar,
Crowned Woodnymph, and Andean
Wood Wren Hermit by Stephan Lorenz Emerald, quite a haul for just sitting back and
enjoying a field lunch. Near the hummingbird feeders, a small flock held a Black-billed Peppershrike
that was seen by all. The tall and dense forest along the trail held Orange-breasted Fruiteater which we
Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to ColombiaTrip Report – RBL Colombia – 1000 Birds Mega Tour 2020 19
found after a lengthy search and, as is often the case, an Olivaceous
Piha was nearby. The rare Fulvous-breasted Flatbill was moving with
a small feeding flock and Orante, Handsome, and Cinnamon
Flycatchers were numerous. A Chestnut-breasted Wren sang from
the dark undergrowth, but would not come any closer, while a Black
Solitaire followed us along the trail, offering repeated binocular
filling views. We returned to the lodge in the late evening where we
took a short break before another delicious dinner.
In order to reach the higher elevations and cloud forest of the Tanager
Finch Reserve, we left very early with another packed breakfast. The
drive up went smoothly and we soon found ourselves at the highest
point of the road right at daybreak. On the way, we stopped for two
Band-winged Nightjars on the road that showed down to a few feet.
It was almost light when we finally managed to call in a Rufous-
bellied Nighthawk that flew right past our heads at one point. Then
the wind picked up and persisted for most of the morning, making
birding challenging, and this was followed by clear skies and
unusually warm temperatures. It required some patience and effort,
but we did manage excellent views of two specialties of the site, the
White-tipped Quetzal
endangered and endemic Munchique Wood Wren and at a stakeout By Stephan Lorenz
we found a pair of Tanager Finches that showed very well. We also
covered a bit of the narrow trail and walked up and down the road in search of feeding flocks. New
species we were able to add included Collared Inca, Slaty-crowned Antpitta, Spillmann’s Tapaculo (also
showing well), Pearled Treeruner, Rufous Spinetail, Barred Becard, Pale-footed Swallow with one bird
showing at the last opportunity, Citrine and Russet-crowned Warblers, Grass-green Tanager, Capped
Conebill, and Grey-hooded Bush Tanager. With bird activity grinding to a halt in the clear and hot
conditions we drove back to the lodge for
lunch and then returned to the main reserve.
We still had lots of forest interior species to
find so we walked back to the trail. After
some patient searching, we finally found a
huge feeding flock. Incredibly, it was
centered exactly at the spot that I had eyed as
an excellent place for a feeding flock since it
was open and a bit downslope. For the next
hour or so we had birds circling us at a
frenetic pace and we tried our best to pull out
as many species as possible, truly heart-
pounding birding at its best. Some of the best
finds in this massive flock included Montane
Woodcreeper, Scaly-throated Foliage-
gleaner, Uniform Treehunter, Variegated
Bristle-Tyrant, a singing Choco Vireo that
Double-banded Greytail by Stephan Lorenz
showed very well, Olive Finches at our feet,
and a surprise pair of White-winged Tanagers. After this action-packed hour, we truly felt like we had
witnessed birding the reserve at its best. During the late afternoon, we drove further down the road in
order to reach lower elevations and walked the final sections of forest where we added Tawny-breasted
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Flycatcher, interestingly a first for the Mega
Tour and, best of all, a small group of the
endemic Crested Ant-Tanagers, and a close
pair of Rufous-throated Tanagers.
For the final morning at Las Tangaras we
planned to hike the steep ridge trail for the
small chance of encountering Gold-ringed
Tanager. Well before breakfast and first light
though we searched for Lyre-tailed Nightjars
and were rewarded with close views of a
female plumaged bird. Once the sun rose it
was extremely windy with almost no bird
activity. We hiked up the ridge for about an
hour and, quite incredibly, recorded no new
species. We returned to the lodge, packed up Oilbirds by Stephan Lorenz
quickly, and drove back to the Bolombolo area to see if we could find the endemic Antioquia Wren we
had only heard during a previous attempt. We arrived at the side road near Bolombolo before lunch and
this time located a territorial Antioquia Wren that offered excellent studies and a brief Yellow-green
Vireo was also added to the list. We then enjoyed another delicious lunch at La Mayoria where a Great-
tailed Grackle was out of place, maybe a sign that the species is spreading due to deforestation much like
its smaller cousin, the Carib Grackle. For the remainder of the day, we had to tackle road closures and
heavy traffic on our way to Manizales without any further birding, arriving at our hotel in Manizales in
the early evening.
The Rio Blanco Reserve above the city of Manizales offers superb birding in the subtropical cloud forest
with access to clear, fast-flowing streams. It is also famous for its extensive antpitta feeders where up to
four species emerge from the mossy undergrowth for worms. The hummingbird feeders around the
restaurant and at lower elevation are also busy. Overall, we had a great day with our local guide and
finished after dinner with some late-night
owling. We arrived right at sunrise and before
the appointment with the first antpitta birded
around the lodge and a short trail. Here we
managed excellent views of Ash-colored and
Blackish Tapaculos. We checked on the
antpitta feeders and due to nesting activity,
only two of the four species actually visited
the feeding stations with great views of the
confiding Brown-banded Antpitta and the
small Slaty-crowned Antpitta, while
Bicolored and Chestnut-crowned Antpittas
Santa Marta Woodstar by Stephan Lorenz
were heard only. Even a Green-and-black
Fruiteater has become used to the worms and is now a regular visitor to the feeding station. Afterward,
we hiked up along the main road and then explored the cloud forest along various tracks. Some of the
best finds included Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Streaked Xenops, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Rufous-
breasted Flycatcher, Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, White-tailed Tyrannulet, Flavescent Flycatcher,
Mountain Wren, Glossy-black Thrush, Grey-browed Brushfinch, four species of hemispingus, and a
variety of tanagers. While we waited for the Brown-banded Antpitta a flock of Golden-plumed Parakeets
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settled into a tree nearby. Before and after lunch we spent some time at the hummingbird feeders where
we added Speckled Hummingbird, Long-tailed Sylph, Bronzy Inca, Buff-tailed Coronet, and Fawn-
breasted Brilliant among some
hummingbirds we had seen before. At
slightly lower elevations, we found the
localized White-throated Wedgebill. On the
way back up we made a successful stop where
we had great views of the uncommon
Tyrannine Woodcreeper. Along the stream
and dam pairs of Torrent Tyrannulets and
White-capped Dippers were present. During
the late afternoon, we returned to the main
track and continued our search for feeding
flocks. Additional species we found included
Bar-bellied and brief Powerful Woodpeckers,
heard only Streak-headed Antbird, Smoky
Bush Tyrant, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant,
Brown-capped Vireo, and Black-collared Bar-crested Antshrike by Stephan Lorenz
Jay. The Yellow-billed Caciques were very skulky and were only seen in flight. We ate dinner at the
reserve and then went out again. Owling after dinner produced spectacular views of a White-throated
Screech Owl and a Rufous-banded Owl was heard at close quarters.
We again started early despite the late night before and headed up to the Los Nevados National Park.
The paramo here would mark the highest elevation we reached during the tour. When we arrived dense
fog and some light drizzle made the initial birding rather
challenging, but we continued to a regular stakeout for the rare
Rufous-fronted Parakeet finding a pair of Stout-billed
Cinclodes in the fog. After a quick search, we had a small
flock of the Rufous-fronted Parakeet fly around us and they
even settled into nearby trees. Due to the dense fog, the views
were less than ideal, but at least we had found this difficult
bird. We also lured a Paramo Tapaculo from the dense bunch
grass and it again showed brilliantly. We continued to the
highest point at the national park visitor center and it only took
a few moments until we spotted the first Buffy Helmetcrest, a
true high elevation specialty. Overall, we found no less than 5
of these spectacular and endemic hummingbirds. Nearby we
also added a Tawny Antpitta calling from atop a bush, Andean
Tit-Spinetail, White-chinned Thistletail, and Grass Wren. We
drove to slightly lower elevations and birded along the gravel
road through patches of cloud forest. Playing the call of an
Andean Pygmy Owl finally attracted the actual owl, which
showed well, and also drew in a flock of mobbing birds that
included White-banded Tyrannulet, Brown-backed Chat-
Tyrant, Mountain Wren, Black-crested Warbler, Lacrimose,
Grayish Piculet by Stephan Lorenz
Scarlet-bellied, and Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanagers, and
Blue-backed Conebill. We continued to lunch at the Termales del Ruiz where we staked out the
hummingbird feeders before sitting down for a tasty meal. The feeders were visited by Tourmaline
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