CAPE TOWN'S CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC - The Royal Portfolio
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THIS MONTH: NEW HOTELS IN CAPE TOWN AND EXPLORING ITALY’S ABRUZZO ONLINE: FOUR EXOTIC VOYAGES
AU GUST 201 8 SINCE 197 9
T raveling the world in search of tr uly enchanting pla ces
View of the
Cape Grace
hotel and the
marina from
our bath at
The Silo
CAPE TOWN’S CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC
A stonishing architecture, vibrant d esign , life- alter ing views, exce ptional hospitalit y
O nce in a while, a hotel comes along
that is breathtakingly original and
designer Liz Biden, whose por tfolio
includes a safari lodge (Royal Malewane),
with innumerable restaurants, a food
market, an aquarium, an ever-expanding
PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
truly one-of-a-kind. Cape Town has no a wine country estate (La Residence) and range of boutiques and, since fall 2014, a
shortage of notable places to stay, ranging a beachfront retreat (Birkenhead House), vibrant center for African arts and crafts.
from a superlative hideaway (Ellerman all of which are Harper-recommended A few fishing boats still putter in and
House) to a colonial grande dame (Belmond and established favorites of Hideaway out, but they are greatly outnumbered
Mount Nelson Hotel). But The Silo, which Report readers. by million-dollar yachts in the marina.
opened in March of last year, is much To join this distinguished company, a Not long ago, however, the Waterfront
more than just an addition to an already city hotel would, at a minimum, require was a much more down-to-earth place,
distinguished roster. It is a game-changer. a dramatic or unusual location. In recent whose centerpiece was a 187-foot grain
The propert y is the brainchild of years, the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront silo. (When it opened in 1924, it was the
well-known South African hotelier and has become the focal point of Cape Town, tallest building in sub-Saharan Africa.)
Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses.
Since the launch of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis.
For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email aharper@andrewharper.com.
Private dining area in a Family Suite, and signature windows in the hotel exterior, The Silo
“
I am not easily impressed, but
as the door of our suite swung
open, I could not restrain an
windows are clearly meant to suggest the areas, we were escorted up to our Deluxe
involuntary exclamation of
geometric panes of a lighthouse. Superior Suite. I am not easily impressed,
surprise and delight. Having been politely received at a but as the door swung open, I could not
ground-f loor reception desk, we were restrain an involuntary exclamation of
For nearly 80 years, grain-laden ships directed to an elevator, which took us surprise and delight. The receptionist, who
headed north to Europe, but eventually, up to the main lobby on the sixth floor. had clearly witnessed similar reactions on
in 2001, the silo was deemed to have Here the essential components of the new previous occasions, smiled knowingly. The
outlived its usefulness and was closed. design were immediately apparent: Huge 18-foot-high latticed windows provided
In an increasingly valuable downtown windows flooded the space with light, a 180-degree panorama that stretched
location, this industrial relic seemed while the preserved industrial structure of from the lower slopes of Table Mountain
fated to meet demolition. Somewhat iron pillars and girders was complemented to the distant smudge of Robben Island.
surprisingly, the decision was taken to by vibrantly colored furniture and an The entire V&A Waterfront was laid out
PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
preserve this symbol of the city’s heritage impressive collection of contemporary directly below. Although the signature
and to repurpose it for the 21st century. paintings. The space was flanked by The w indows did not open, sliding glass
One part of the complex would become Willaston Bar (named for the first ship to doors gave access to a balcony, where
a singular hotel, with the remainder of have exported grain from the silo) and I was suddenly immersed in sunshine
the space being occupied by the world’s The Granary Café, the hotel’s principal and sea air and surrounded by the cries
largest museum of African modern art, restaurant. Virtually everyone arriving of seagulls.
the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art at The Silo for the first time must stand, Biden’s design style is essentially
Africa, a partnership between the V&A as we did, gazing at the mesmerizing view play ful, exuberant and eclectic. She
Waterfront and German businessman over the Waterfront, the marina and the delights in bold colors and improbable
Jochen Zeitz (see page 5). South Atlantic. juxtapositions, with modern paintings
The silo complex actually has two Over the years, I have checked in next to colonial pieces and ar t deco
elements: a rectangular elevator tower and at many thousands of hotels, but I can furniture in close proximity to Persian
the adjoining round storage silos them- remember very few occasions in which carpets and Egyptian chandeliers. Doubt-
selves. From the outside, the most obvious the welcome has been as warm, efficient less there are purists who would prefer
change is the insertion of multifaceted, and hospitable. A nd the reason was a postindustrial structure to have a
blue-tinted windows into the grid of the immediately apparent: The staff at The more austere, contemporar y appear-
tower. Each of these comprises hand-cut Silo clearly love working there, and they ance. Instead, Biden’s accommodations
glass panels, which bulge slightly outward communicate their enthusiasm to guests offer voluptuous comfort and a cheerful,
as if they had been inflated from within. within seconds. theatrical atmosphere. Our suite came
An inspired addition by the London- Having chatted with the concierge with a separate sitting area with a deep
based architect Thomas Heatherwick, the and been given a brief tour of the public velvet-covered sofa, Lucite lamps, glass-
2 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT AU GUST 201 8
Details of the bedroom in our suite at The Silo, and view of downtown and Table Mountain from the rooftop pool terrace
access, it could quickly become a tourist offered, with cheese and dessert served
attraction. Along one side of the roof is from trolleys.
a long, narrow swimming pool. Aside The Silo is a brilliantly imaginative
from a menu of salads, sandwiches and mixture of the traditional and the contem-
flatbreads, there is also a tempura bar and porary, a place where modern African
a raw bar with an array of oysters. The art feels improbably at home with the
f ronted cabi nets a nd a n occa siona l 360-degree panorama is quite simply one industrial past of colonial Cape Town. I
table formed from a single giant slab of of the finest from any hotel in the world, can’t recall the last time I visited a new
African hardwood. Slumping down to and treating myself to a glass of Cham- hotel that I found so exhilarating and that
gaze at the incomparable view, I reflected pagne, I sat at a table with an obstructed seemed such an instantaneous addition
that it was one of the most spectacular view over moored cruise ships, downtown to the life and character of a city.
and enjoyable hotel rooms that I’d seen Cape Town and the massive slab of Table The property qualifies as a hideaway
in years. Mountain. chiefly because it has fewer than 30 rooms.
The adjoining bath was also a mini- Cape Town has become one of the But despite being at the bustling heart
masterpiece, with a dramatic black-and- world’s preeminent foodie cities, with a of the V&A Waterfront, it is still a place
PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
white-striped marble floor, white-marble wide range of exceptional restaurants, where you can find privacy and calm.
surfaces, a large walk-in shower and a so The Silo’s executive chef, Veronica (In addition to seven Deluxe Superior
kingfisher-blue ottoman beside a huge Canha-Hibbert, has sensibly opted to Suites, there are four two-bedroom Family
soaking tub, positioned at the middle serve “honest and approachable food that Suites, each with a mezzanine level, plus
of a floor-to-ceiling window that over- showcases seasonal, local ingredients” a magnificent 2,010-square-foot one-
looked the marina. (At the time of our at The Granary Café. Arguably, the most bedroom Penthouse.) Those in search of
visit, Cape Town was affected by drought elaborate meal of the day is breakfast, deep tranquility, however, generally head
and I never had the pleasure of using the which begins with a squeezed-juice trolley to Ellerman House, a peerless 13-room
tub. Fortunately, winter rains have since and a “Harvest Table” with every conceiv- sanctuary set within the mansion of a
alleviated the water shortage and life is able kind of pastry, granola, charcuterie, former shipping magnate, overlooking the
returning to normal.) To ensure privacy, cheese and fruit. This cornucopia is ocean in the upscale suburb of Bantry Bay.
gauze-like blinds could be controlled followed by outstanding hot dishes such
from a touchpad.
In search of lunch, I headed up to the
11th floor. The Silo Rooftop is chiefly for the
as smoked-haddock latkes, and a soufflé
omelet with smoked salmon, feta and
avocado. The weekday lunch and dinner
T ravelers in search of seclusion but a
less formal atmosphere and a lower
price point now have a second option. The
use of hotel guests — nonresidents must menus include contemporary interpre- neighboring residential area of Clifton is
have a reservation — and the management tations of classics like steak frites and generally regarded as the most desirable in
is clearly aware that without restricted bouillabaisse, while on Sunday a roast is Cape Town, due to its lovely white beaches,
AU GUST 201 8 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT 3
Panorama of Clifton and the Twelve Apostles from our balcony, the pool terrace, and private dining room, Cape View Clifton
“
one from Cape View Clifton — of crashing
surf and the jagged peaks known as the
C ape Town is a city of Twelve Apostles — has few rivals.
superlative views, but the one The mostly white accommodations as required. And the numerous cafés and
come in a style sometimes referred to as restaurants of neighboring Camps Bay
from Cape View Clifton — of
“beachfront chic,” with natural fabrics, are less than 10 minutes away by Uber.
crashing surf and the jagged black-and-white photographs and a scat- Cape View Clifton occupies a point on a
peaks known as the Twelve tering of contemporary artworks. The scale midway between a guesthouse and a
marble baths are well-appointed. I was
Apostles — has few rivals. boutique hotel. During our stay, the staff
not able to see all of the suites during my were consistently pleasant and obliging,
stay, but spacious 1A has a glorious ocean but the level of service is below that found
swaths of Mediterranean vegetation and view and a private deck overlooking the at most Harper-recommended properties.
PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
hypnotic ocean views. The steep hillside swimming pool. Essentially, this is a place that will appeal
is dotted by many of the city’s most glam- Breakfast is the only meal that is to those who wish to be left to their own
orous homes, one of which, Cape View served, but local catering companies devices, to relax, reflect, read, sunbathe
Clifton, located on ultra-desirable Kloof deliver, and the staff will set up tables and forget about the world. H
Road, has been converted into a seven-
suite guesthouse by a young designer and
stylist, Jessica Latimer. HOTELS AT A GL ANCE
The property is laid out on five levels,
connected by an elevator, with the small T H E S I LO A97
LIKE Exceptionally imaginative architecture and interior design; incomparable panoramic views; utterly
reception area being at the top. Farther delightful staff; delicious, uncomplicated food; the unique association with the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary
down are a tiny library, a fitness room Art Africa. DISLIKE Having to leave. GOOD TO KNOW The concierge can arrange for private tours of the
with treadmills facing the Atlantic and museum. LOWEST RATE: SILO ROOM, $1,400; EDITOR’S CHOICE: DELUXE SUPERIOR SUITE, $2,000. SILO SQUARE, V&A
WATERFRONT. TEL. (27) 21-670-0500. THEROYALPORTFOLIO.COM
a huge open-plan living and dining area
with a kitchen and an honor bar. This CAPE VIEW CLIFTON 89
extends onto a sundeck with a small LIKE The stunning location; the tranquil and secluded atmosphere; the cool and elegant interior design.
DISLIKE The level of service is more that of a guesthouse than a hotel; the swimming pool is rather small,
swimming pool and a row of loungers
due to the precipitous terrain. GOOD TO KNOW Uber arrives promptly, and it takes only about 15 minutes to
beneath white umbrellas. Cape Town is be in the thick of the action on the V&A Waterfront. LOWEST RATE: JUNIOR SUITE, $680; EDITOR’S CHOICE: DELUXE
a city of superlative panoramas, but the SUITE, $820. 232 KLOOF ROAD, CLIFTON. TEL. (27) 21-438-8748. RAREEARTH.CO.ZA
4 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT AU GUST 201 8
A CULTURAL CENTER FOR A CONTINENT
The Zeitz Museum of Contemporar y Ar t Af r ica opens on Cape Town’s V&A Water f ront
I t is a strange but inescapable fact that
a single building can transform a city.
Sydney has never felt remotely the same
much of their business from cruise ship
passengers are being replaced by ambitious
restaurants and stylish upscale boutiques.
fortune as CEO of PUMA, the sporting-
goods manufacturer. Under his steward-
ship, the company’s share price increased
since the opening of the Opera House, The museum itself is housed within the by 4,000 percent in 13 years. Today Zeitz
nor has Bilbao after the debut of Frank 42 concrete tubes of a former grain-storage is an environmental campaigner and a
Gehry’s titanium-clad masterpiece, the facility, next to The Silo hotel. These have best-selling author, as well as a board
Guggenheim Museum. Both places were been sliced and diced by architect Thomas member of Harley-Davidson.
suddenly perceived to be more important, Heatherwick to create 70,000 square Since 2008, the Zeitz Collection has
more cultivated, more complex. And now feet of exhibition space in more than 100 acquired representative works of contem-
it’s Cape Town’s turn. galleries. At the center of the museum is porary art “from the African continent
The new Zeitz Museum of Contem- a vast atrium, above which the truncated and its diaspora.” It also bought 85 works
porar y A r t A frica, which opened in concrete shafts have been capped with at the 2013 Venice Biennale, including the
September of last year, has provided a strengthened glass so as to allow light award-winning installation at the Angola
focal point for the city. Its location, the to flood into the cathedral-like interior. pavilion by Edson Chagas and three large
V&A Waterfront, suddenly seems more Many of the artworks on display come sculptures by Michele Mathison in the
cosmopolitan, more sophisticated. And the from the private collection of Jochen Zeitz, Zimbabwe pavilion. Cape Town will never
bars and souvenir shops that once drew a German businessman who acquired a be quite the same. H
Clockwise from top left: Museum exterior next to The Silo
hotel; truncated silos from the atrium; wall hanging by
El Anatsui; photography by Zanele Muholi; fashion art by
Kudzanai Chiurai in collaboration with Marianne Fassler.
PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
AU GUST 201 8 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT 5
Medieval village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio
ABRUZZO: EXPLORING UNDISCOVERED ITALY
SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO: LIANEM / ADOBE STOCK
Char ming inns, sensational food , sublim e scener y
CASA ROSATI PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
B ordered by a craggy spine of the Apen-
nines Mountains to the west and the
Adriatic Sea to the east, the Abruzzo region
Rome’s most famous recipes, including
spaghetti alla carbonara and bucatini
all’amatriciana, actually have their roots
century and was later remodeled to become
a small palazzo. We were welcomed by
Federico’s warm and friendly mother.
lies just a two-hour drive from Rome’s in Abruzzo.) With three major national Before showing us to our room, she gave
Fiumicino international airport. Remark- parks and one regional one, this sparsely us a tour of the house, including the
ably little-known, it offers a combination of populated region remains a tract of Italy first-floor sitting rooms, which, she said,
Tuscany’s rolling landscapes and Umbria’s where time has largely stood still. we were welcome to use during our stay.
verdant scenery. Today Abruzzo is being When the Italians speak of Abruzzo, With their framed family photos, fres-
discovered by connoisseurs of Italy who the adjective they use most often is “pasto- coed vaulted ceilings, tables piled with
love its leisurely ways. The region does not rale.” Like the corresponding English word, books and magazines, and comfortable
yet have a luxury hotel of an international it derives from the Latin “pastoralis,”
standard, but it does offer small properties meaning “of shepherds or herdsmen,” Our Balcony Room and its view, Casa Rosati
of comfort and character. And what also and for centuries most of the inhabitants
makes them especially memorable is the earned their living by herding flocks. The
Abruzzese tradition of hospitality. Italian term for the seasonal movement of
Abr u zzo is a bl issf u l ly rela x i ng animals from the plains to the mountains
destination, in part because sightseeing is “transumanza,” and as the charming
duties are minimal. The Museo Nazionale Federico Rosati, the owner of our first
d’Abruzzo in L’Aquila, the region’s capital, hotel, told me, “Even today, it is the tran-
is fascinating, as is lively Pescara, a city sumanza that defines Abruzzo, since it
on the Adriatic coastline. But my stron- explains our landscapes, our cooking and
gest memories are the honeyed smell of our character. We live very close to our
yellow-flowering broom, the bleating of land and its history.”
lamb and goat herds, and the villages
of cream-colored houses spilling down
distant hillsides. The pleasures of a trip
are waking every morning to birdsong,
T he six-room Casa Rosati is a country
bed-and-breakfast in the tiny town
of Ripa di Fagnano Alto, located some 15
admiring the routinely spectacular views miles southeast of L’Aquila. It is housed
and exploring the region’s superb cuisine within a renovated stone building that
during long, lazy lunches. (Many of had a former life as a convent in the 16th
6 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT AU GUST 201 8
armchairs and sofas, they offered the the visit. Afterward, we had lunch at Villa of the renowned Masciarelli winery. Set
agreeable impression that we were house Maiella, a family-owned restaurant in the on a hilltop, it offers panoramic views
guests, not clients at a hotel. One of the hilltop town of Guardiagrele. The dining of vineyards and Apennines peaks. Our
recurring frustrations of travel is the room is under the supervision of Pascal arrival was somewhat unpropitious, since
sensation of being an outsider, someone Tinari, who recently returned from a stint the front desk clerk’s second question
lacking access to the real life of a place, at Michelin three-star L’Auberge de l’Ill was “What time will you be leaving?” But
which is why a stay at this intimate family in Alsace to work with his brother, chef deciding to overlook this bumpy welcome,
property is such a special experience. Arcangelo. On a sunny day, the views from we went for a tour of the property, which
The Balcony Room is, I suspect, the best the terrace were ravishing. Arcangelo is has handsome public rooms, including
that the property has to offer. It came with a gifted chef, and the meal that followed a bar with vaulted ceilings where you
terra-cotta tile floors, a vaulted frescoed was consistently delicious. The Menu del can sample some of the excellent wines
ceiling and a large wrought-iron bed. There Territorio offered a delectable selection of produced by the estate.
was also a writing desk, a brown leather regional dishes, among which I especially Every room at the hotel is different, but
ROOM AND FOOD PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
armchair and an old stone fireplace. The liked the pallotte cacio e uova — a delicate given the Castello’s elevated location, we’d
lighting was excellent, and the bath was breaded ball of ewe’s milk cheese, egg and opted for the 1,290-square-foot Superior
immaculate, with a stall shower and a breadcrumbs in a light tomato sauce — Suite Granaio on the top floor, the house’s
terrazzo floor. Its best feature, however, and the chitarra pasta with lamb ragu former granary. This came with beamed
was a window that offered glorious views and juniper-smoked ricotta. ceilings, a terra-cotta tile floor, a writing
of the forested Valle Subequana. (Villa Maiella deservedly has a star desk and a sofa, plus a large Jacuzzi tub.
Casa Rosati does not have a restaurant, in the “Michelin Italia” guide, but from
“
but the owners booked us a table at Osteria my long experience of traveling in Italy,
della Posta in nearby Poggio Picenze, where this is one of the rare cases where the
we enjoyed an excellent and very reason- inspectors got things right. In general, I’d T he Menu del Territorio
ably priced dinner of saffron chitarra pasta discourage anyone who loves good Italian offered a delectable selection
with ricotta and truffles, roast pork in pear food from taking Michelin’s advice, as
of regional dishes, including
sauce, tiramisu and a good bottle of local the guide often favors a fussy version of
red wine. On returning to the hotel, we contemporary Italian cooking that is more chitarra pasta with lamb ragu
left a bedroom window open to enjoy the French than Italian.) and juniper-smoked ricotta.
grass-scented country air.
After breakfast, we headed east to
visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale
d’Abruzzo in Chieti, where the Roman
F rom Guardiagrele it was a 20-minute
drive to the Castello di Semivicoli in
Casacanditella, an 11-room hotel housed
Below: Pallotte cacio e uova at Villa Maiella
objects on display were more than worth within a 17th-century castle, which is part
Vineyards surrounding the Castello di Semivicoli and our Superior Suite Granaio (bottom right)
AU GUST 201 8 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT 7
It was stylishly rustic and very comfort- luxury-goods brand Bulgari, Romito has singular talent, but this is definitely not an
able, though the bath was rather small. become the rising star of Italy’s culinary address for anyone who likes traditional
Thanks to no fewer than 17 windows, the scene, with a three-star restaurant in Italian cuisine, as his cooking is more
suite has a 360-degree view. However, as Castel di Sangro, a just-opened spot in contemplative than hearty and sensual.
there is no turndown service, closing all Rome and a third at the Bulgari resort But if culinary understatement sounds
the shutters took quite awhile! in Dubai. intriguing, you may enjoy the experi-
Although the property has no restau- Arriving in the late afternoon, we ence. Breakfast the following morning
ROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER SCANNO: ROMAOSLO / ISTOCK / GET T Y IMAGES
rant, the breakfast buffet was excellent. found gardeners busy in the large plot that was more conventional, with fresh juices,
Amenities include a fitness room and supplies the kitchen. Our whitewashed superb baked goods, yogurt, charcuterie
a small swimming pool. Wine tastings junior suite initially struck me as exces- and eggs, all served in a sunny room with
are offered and should be booked ahead sively austere, but once we’d settled in, I gorgeous views.
of time. Overall, this is a fine base from decided it was sufficiently comfortable
which to explore southern Abruzzo. despite its uncompromising minimalism,
thanks in part to a spacious bath with T he ensuing drive to the fortified
medieval village of Santo Stefano
L eav i ng tra nqu i l Casaca nd itella,
we headed to the town of Castel di
Sangro, a 90-minute drive through a
a rainfall shower and a large, circular
Jacuzzi tub. Public areas at the hotel are
fashionably decorated with sleek, contem-
di Sessanio was astonishingly beau-
tiful. Avoiding highways in favor of
small country roads, we headed north
rugged landscape dominated by peaks that porary furniture. through rolling green Abruzzese coun-
were snowcapped even in late May. The Romito holds three Michelin stars tr yside to the province’s best-known
nine-room Casadonna Reale hotel and at his Reale restaurant, a self-described hotel, Sextantio Albergo Diffuso. This
restaurant is set on a hilltop and housed “laboratory” bringing the “Italian cuisine comprises 29 accommodations dispersed
within a 16th-century former monastery. of tomorrow to life.” The dining room among formerly abandoned stone houses
The property is the brainchild of chef Niko is under the supervision of his sister, of an ancient village, located at an eleva-
Romito, who has been extolled as “the new Cristiana. Some of the dishes we tried tion of 4,100 feet, inside the Gran Sasso
Gualtiero Marchesi” (the late chef who is as part of our €140 Essenza menu were and Monti della Laga National Park. The
considered the father of modern Italian brilliant, including beef tartare with olive village has been painstakingly brought
cooking). Following a major investment oil and raspberry-vinegar mayonnaise, back to life by visionary hotelier Daniele
by the Rome-based Italian jeweler and and ravioli filled with ricotta cheese and Kihlgren (who also has a similarly rustic
spinach, but others were underwhelming, and preservation-oriented hotel, Le Grotte
Details of our room, Casadonna Reale
notably the cold duck w ith smoked- della Civita, in Matera, Basilicata). Kihl-
duck water and spinach. Romito is a gren happened upon the village in 1999
Scanno, a secluded and especially beautiful village in the Apennines
8 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT AU GUST 201 8
Accommodations at Sextantio Albergo Diffuso, and Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park
“
BATHTUB AND BED PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER GRAN SASSO: MAUDANROS / ADOBE STOCK
T he design of the rooms was
inspired by pictures that
Paul Scheuermeier, a Swiss
linguist, took in Abruzzo in
the 1920s.
while motorcycling through Abruzzo. At might be willing to forgo television, but ingredients. Dominated by two large stone
the time, only 120 inhabitants remained. that they would definitely require reliable ceiling arches and a central fireplace, the
He decided that the houses might be saved plumbing. So Philippe Starck-designed dining room comes with antique dark
from extinction without effacing their past. baths and extremely comfortable beds wooden furniture and handcrafted plates
Today his intention is revealed by telling were installed. My accommodations were and mugs. Wine tastings are offered in the
details such as handwoven Abruzzese in an old house, whose front room had once Cantinone, an ancient cellar. And in the
coverlets, woolen mattresses, venerable been both the kitchen and living room. Tisaneria, you can sample teas made with
furniture and careful staging aided by low Sextantio is an invitation to meditate on local herbs. Classes are offered in cooking,
lighting and an abundance of candles. (The the life that once existed in small, isolated weaving and soap-making.
interior design of the rooms was inspired Abruzzese villages. At first, the place is Those who require 24-hour room
by pictures that Paul Scheuermeier, a disorienting, but getting lost — both in service, a pillow menu and other tropes of
Swiss linguist, took in Abruzzo in the time and on the uneven stone lanes of the five-star luxury will feel greatly deprived
1920s.) No telephones or televisions break village — is intentional. at Sextantio Albergo Diffuso, but for
the spell of a time long past. Locanda sotto gli Archi serves tradi- more-adventurous travelers this hotel
Kihlgren knew that the people who tional Abruzzese cuisine using time- offers a rare and exceptionally memorable
would be most responsive to his project honored recipes and locally produced experience. H
AU GUST 201 8 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT 9
ugiaAbruzzo Notebook
AN E XCURSION TO PESCAR A
MARCHE
UMBRIA A D R I A T I C
S E A
GRAN SASSO
A
AND
MONTI DELLA LAGA CIVITELLA
CASANOVA
P
NATIONAL PARK
PESCARA
E
SANTO STEFANO
DI SESSANIO
N
L’AQUILA 4 CHIETI
N
1
CAPESTRANO 2 CASACANDITELLA
I
RIPA
LAZIO
N
ABRUZZO GUARDIAGRELE
E
SIRENTE-VELINO
MAIELLA
REGIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARK
M
O
Pescara beach before the tourists arrive
U
SCANNO
N
MILAN
T he lively, pastel-hued city of braised mutton and chickpeas,
T
VENICE
D’ABRUZZO 3 CASTEL DI SANGRO Pescara on the Adriatic Coast and salt-cod polenta with rose-
A
NATIONAL PARK I
FLORENCE N
makes an enjoyable excursion mary. Owner Giovanni Marrone is
S
MOLISE during a tour of Abruz zo. It justly proud of his wine list, which
ROME
LAZIO really comes into its own during includes a fine selection from local
the summ er, wh en it s many winemaker Emidio Pepe (CORSO
GABBIERE / ISTOCK / GET T Y IMAGES
0 30 MI
lidos (beaches) fill with Italian MANTHONE 46. TEL. [39] 085-690-724).
0 30 KM
vacationers who love spending La Barcaccia is considered by
the day at one of the stabilimenti, many Pescarans to be their city’s
or private beach concessions that best fish restaurant, and I recom-
HOTELS AT A GL ANCE rent loungers, have restaurants mend the marinated baby squid,
and offer such amenities as Wi-Fi, fish soup, and pasta with scorpion-
C A S A R O S AT I 88 (MAP REF. 1)
Warm hospitality; attractive rooms; the convenient location from which to showers and changing rooms. fish ragu (PIAZZA 1 MAGGIO 33. TEL. [39]
LIKE
PUGLIA
visit places like Capestrano, one of the prettiest villages in Abruzzo. DISLIKE The These animated places are the 085-421-7426). Otherwise, Penelope
absence of a swimming pool on the large terrace overlooking the valley. GOOD antithesis of Nor th American a Mare is ideal for a casual seafood
TO KNOW There are almost no shops in the village, so arrive with everything you
beaches, where people stake out lunch on the beach (VIALE RIVIERA
may need. LOWEST RATE: FRENCH ROOM, $130; EDITOR’S CHOICE: BALCONY ROOM, $180. C A M PA N I A
PIAZZA LUIGI ROSATI 6, FAGNANO ALTO, RIPA. TEL. (39) 347-546-7388. CASAROSATI.IT their place with towels and chairs NORD 132. TEL. [39] 338-656-6607).
and spend a quiet day swimming Aside from many charming
C A S T E L LO D I S E M I V I C O L I A90 (MAP REF. 2)
and reading. The Italians, in late-19th-century buildings in
The glorious location and views; the excellent wines served in the wine
the art nouveauBstyle
A S—I Lwhich
I C AtheT A
LIKE
bar. DISLIKE The lack of a restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW Few of the staff speak contrast, love playing beach games
English, but a couple of words of Italian go a long way. LOWEST RATE: STANDARD of every variety and happily spend Italians call Liber ty af ter the
SERVITÙ, $180; EDITOR’S CHOICE: JUNIOR SUITE MONASTERO, $200. VIA S. NICOLA 24,
the day chatting animatedly with famous depar tment store in
SEMIVICOLI, CASACANDITELLA. TEL. (39) 871-890-045. CASTELLODISEMIVICOLI.COM
their friends and neighbors. For London — the main site in Pescara
CASADONNA REALE 89 (MAP REF. 3) newcomers to Italian beach life, the is the Museo Paparella Treccia
LIKE The spectacular views; the outstanding breakfast. DISLIKE The lack of a best club at which to test the waters Devlet, a museum that occupies a
second restaurant serving a less exalted, more rustic version of the Abruzzese
is Ammiraglia ( A M M I R AG L I A . I T ), villa in the heart of the city, which
cuisine that originally inspired chef Romito. GOOD TO KNOW Reservations for
both the restaurant and the hotel should be made as far in advance as possible. owing to its excellent restaurant. has an eclectic collection of oil
LOWEST RATE: CLASSIC ROOM, $250; EDITOR’S CHOICE: DELUXE ROOM, $310. PIANA Beyond the beach, Pescara paintings, watercolors and local
SANTA LIBERATA, CASTEL DI SANGRO. TEL. (39) 086-469-382. NIKOROMITO.COM
is also well-known for its restau- majolica pottery.
A90 rants, many of them serving fish D e s p i te b e i n g a p o p u l a r
S E X TA N T I O A L B E R G O D I F F U S O (MAP REF. 4)
LIKE The fascinating experience of traditional rural life in Abruzzo. DISLIKE It is and shellfish. The best in town is summer destination for the Ital-
difficult to find the main office for check-in, and parking is problematic. A PDF map Taverna 58, which specializes in ians, Pescara is not a great hotel
of the village should be sent to guests so that they don’t drive in circles. GOOD TO
traditional Abruzzese cooking. town. The Castello di Semivicoli
KNOW The activities are all popular and should be booked well in advance. LOWEST
RATE: CLASSIC ROOM, $160; EDITOR’S CHOICE: SUITE, $310. VIA PRINCIPE UMBERTO, Among the dishes to try are spelt in Casacanditella lies 20 miles to
SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO. TEL. (39) 862-899-112. SANTOSTEFANO.SEXTANTIO.IT with nettle shoots and wild greens, the south.
10 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT AU GUST 201 8From left: Chitarra pasta with lamb ragu and juniper-smoked ricotta at Villa Maiella, Guardiagrele; roasted eggplant, and lamb arrosticini at La Bandiera, Civitella Casanova
ABRUZ ZESE FOOD SPECIALTIES A GRE AT FAMILY RESTAUR ANT
T he hearty, rustic cooking of Abruzzo is based on the region’s
superb lamb, as well as some of the best-quality pasta in Italy, A wonderful family-owned restaurant, La Bandiera, set on a hillside outside of
Civitella Casanova, embodies the pleasures of eating in Italy. Chef Marcello
Spadone and his wife and children cook with vegetables from their own garden
pulses (beans, chickpeas and lentils) and sheep’s and goat’s milk
cheeses. Here are a few specialties to look out for. and employ the province’s best produce to create dishes like shrimp tartare
FOOD PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER VINEYARD: SABRINA DEI NOBILI / ISTOCK / GET T Y IMAGES
with pine nuts and green apple, maccheroni alla mugnaia con sugo di pomodori
PALLOT TE Fried balls of cheese and coarse breadcrumbs (hand-pulled single-strand pasta with tomato sauce), and veal with celeriac
bound together with egg and usually served in a tomato sauce. purée and a vermouth reduction. The service is charming, and the wine list is
This iconic Abruzzese dish is in the cucina povera (peasant outstanding. CONTRADA PASTINI 4, CIVITELLA CASANOVA. TEL. (39) 085-845-219.
cooking) tradition, recently made fashionable by chefs such as
New York-based Cesare Casella.
THE WINES OF ABRUZ ZO
ARROSTICINI Lamb or mutton chopped into cubes, skewered
and then grilled over charcoal. Arrosticini are often accompanied
by slices of bread soaked in extra-virgin olive oil, plus peperoncino O nce dismissed as rather rustic, Abruzzese wines
are becoming much better known, due to a small
(hot chile peppers). Arrosticini were originally eaten by mountain constellation of talented producers who are making
shepherds, especially from the villages of Civitella Casanova, exceptional wines from the region’s most common
Carpineto and Villa Celiera. The traditional accompaniment is grape varieties, including Montepulciano, Trebbiano and
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo red wine. Pecorino. Luigi Cataldi Madonna (CATALDIMADONNA.COM)
is a local legend who has been responsible for the revival
SAGNE E FAGIOLI Broad strips of pasta mixed with cooked of interest in Pecorino, which had been largely forgotten
borlotti beans in a light tomato sauce. Some recipes also include but which makes lively whites with refreshing citrus
diced ham. notes. Gianni Masciarelli (MASCIARELLI.IT) was another
one of the province’s most visionary winemakers, with a
PORCHET TA ALL’ABRUZZESE Boned suckling pig slow-
winery in San Martino sulla Marrucina and vineyards in all
roasted with rosemary, garlic and pepper. (Porchetta from
four of the districts of Abruzzo. He began production in
neighboring Umbria is stuffed with the pig’s chopped entrails
1981, and his Marina Cvetic Iskra, a blend of international
mixed with garlic and wild fennel.)
grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay)
MACCHERONI ALLA CHITARRA Square-edged spaghetti- with Montepulciano and Trebbiano, won a 90 rating from Robert Parker in 2004.
like strands of pasta made with durum wheat semolina, eggs and Emidio Pepe (EMIDIOPEPE.COM) is the Abruzzese winemaker perhaps best known
salt. After cooking, it is served with ragù d’agnello (ragu of lamb), in North America, where his vintage Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines can sell
although in some areas of Abruzzo the traditional condiment is for hundreds of dollars. One of the pleasures of traveling in Abruzzo is that
tomato sauce with pallottelle (veal meatballs). The name of the you’ll often find younger vintages of his assertive, earthy wines on local wine
spaghetti comes from the tool, the chitarra (meaning “guitar”), lists at much lower prices. His younger white Pecorino wines pair wonderfully
used to produce it. with fish and seafood.
AU GUST 201 8 THE HIDE AWAY REPORT 11L AST LO O K
L AST WO R D
WINTER BLUES
D ue to hurricanes Irma and Maria,
the last winter season in a large
swath of the northern Caribbean was
effectively canceled. Islands that
have long been favorites of Harper
members — Anguilla, St. Barths and
the B.V.I. — were among the worst
affected. Rosewood Little Dix Bay
on Virgin Gorda is not expected
to open until the end of 2019.
Elsewhere things are a little brighter:
Eden Rock - St Barths is taking
Spiral staircase inside a former grain silo, Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, Cape Town
reservations beginning December
New & Noteworthy 22, and Belmond Cap Juluca on
Anguilla intends to be up and running
by November 17. Of course, the
WILDERNESS LODGE LIGHTHOUSE LIVING MONTANA RETREAT southern Caribbean was spared
The Haida Gwaii archipelago The island of Salina is located Long a favorite of Hideaway last September’s destruction. I have
extends for around 155 miles just off the north coast of Report readers, The Resort long had a soft spot for the islands
along the coast of British Sicily, in the volcanic Aeolian at Paws Up, a 37,000-acre of the Grenadines, even though
LAST LOOK PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
Columbia. The new 12-room archipelago (and is reached by work i ng c at t le ra nc h i n they are more time-consuming to
ecolodge Ocea n Hou se is ferry from Milazzo). One of its Montana’s Blackfoot Valley, reach. In addition to the debut of
reached after a 70-minute villages, Pollara, acquired a of fers a ra nge of lu x u r y Silversands, a lavish new property
flight by chartered jet from degree of fame as a location for log cabins plus g lamping in Grenada, the most interesting
Vancouver and a subsequent the 1994 hit movie, “Il Postino” in safari-style tents. This recent development is the opening
of the Mandarin Oriental, Canouan.
20-minute helicopter ride. (“The Postman”). Capofaro year has seen the debut of
The unspoiled island of Canouan has
Owned and operated by the L o c a nd a & Ma lv a si a , a n Isla nd L odge at Sa l mon
some of the most exquisite white-
indigenous Haida Nation, the i n n on t he w i ne estate of Lake, situated a 15-minute
sand beaches in the Caribbean.
floating resort is surrounded the Tasca d’Almerita family, drive from the main resort, a Previous incarnations of the resort
by red cedar and Sitka spruce offers 27 simple but elegant center for summer activities have struggled, but the property has
forests, home to some of the accommodations in former including fishing, kayaking, been extended and restyled, and
world’s largest black bears. workers’ cottages. Now the pa dd leboa rd i ng, sa i l i ng, under the Mandarin banner the future
Guests may hike with local 19th-century lighthouse itself, wa keboa rd i ng a nd water looks bright. Guests will have the use
guides, sea k aya k , watch from which the property takes skiing. As well as a staff of of the new $250 million Glossy Bay
whales, fish for salmon, or its name, has been converted adventure guides, the lodge Marina, which opened in April of last
relax and recuperate in the into a new six-room complex, has its own chef and “island year. And the transfer from Barbados
now takes just 25 minutes aboard the
lodge’s spa. A resident artists’ situated atop a 150-foot cliff butler.” The island can be
resort’s own private jet.
studio hosts Haida carvers, overlooking the Tyrrhenian rented for exclusive use.
painters and weavers. Sea. Chef Ludovico De Vivo
conducts cooking classes for ANDRE W HARPER HOTEL R ATINGS
Central lounge area, Ocean House
those interested to learn about A99-100 A truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind in the world
loca l c u li na r y trad itions. A96-98 An exceptional hotel of great individuality and distinction
The surrounding vineyard A93-95 An outstanding hotel of genuine sophistication
produces Malvasia wine, and A90-92 A fine hotel with considerable charm about which we have minor reservations
guests may not only sample 89 & Below A hotel that did not meet the required standard
the products but also take A minimum score of 90 is required to become a recommended hotel and to be included
in The Andrew Harper Collection. Find all of our recommended hotels at AndrewHarper.com.
part in pruning or harvesting
The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 4214 Medical Parkway,
s hou ld t he y w i s h . O t her Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices.
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FULL-SERVICE TR AVEL PL ANNING IS AVAIL ABLE TO MEMBERS AT (80 0) 375 - 4 6 8 5 OR RESERVATIONS@ANDREWHARPERTR AVEL .COM.You can also read
