2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide

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2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND
2018-19
              www.liberoguide.com
2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND 2018-19
                                                                       www.liberoguide.com

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            intr o
                                                                                                                                                                                                          St Jakob Park

                                                                                                                                                                                In addition, for 2018-19, the Swiss
                                                                                                                                                                                champions do not gain an automatic
                                                                                                                                                                                slot in the group stage of the Champions
                                                                                                           Stadio Cornaredo
                                                                                                                                                                                League. Local neutrals welcomed
                                                                                                                                                                                Berne’s title triumph in 2017-18,
                                                                                                                                                                                bringing competition and variety.
Dominated by FC Basel from 2010            footballing royalty, ‘GC’ now attract      Sion, capital of the Valais, home canton
onwards, the Swiss Super League was        gates of well under the league average     of disgraced ex-FIFA boss Sepp Blatter,                                                   For foreign neutrals, away from the big
won by previous three-time runners-up      of 11,000.                                 is one of two current top-tier clubs from                                                 two in Basel and Berne, Swiss football
Young Boys in 2017-18, a first title for                                              French-speaking Switzerland. With                                                         is a quaint throwback. No, it’s not
the Berne side since way back in 1986.     St Gallen have long overtaken              Lugano representing Italianate Ticino,                                                    cheap, but then nothing in Switzerland
                                           Grasshoppers as top dogs in                the ten-team Swiss Super League is          Like in Scotland, the modest size of the      is. The beer will be decent, the cervelat
Basel is the hotbed of Swiss football,     Switzerland’s far north-east, up by the    a microcosm of Switzerland’s (mainly)       league means that teams meet each             sausage too.
its St Jakob Park, known by all as         German border. Like several others,        three-language divide.                      other more than once home and away.
the ‘Joggeli’, providing the fieriest      FCSG play in a new-build stadium.                                                      This four-game fixture set-up has been        Station to stadium
atmosphere for the Swiss national team                                                Supporters from six teams chant in the      looked at by the Swiss Football League,       Switzerland is well served by budget
as well as FCB. The other populist side    Some, such as Lucerne, Lugano,             same quirky form of Alemannic German        worried by the Basel monopoly and low         airlines, with hubs in Basel, Geneva
is FC Zürich, who share the Letzigrund     Neuchâtel and Thun, have gorgeous          that created the universal mantra to        gates. Unlike in Scotland, the season         and Zürich. Connecting all major
stadium with record champions              Alpine backdrops, within reach of a lake   back the national team, ‘Hopp Schwiiz!!’.   isn’t split after Christmas. In 2017, Basel   towns, Swiss Rail (sbb.ch/en/home.
Grasshoppers. Once considered              served by sightseeing boats.               We’re not in Hamburg anymore, Toto.         won the title with six games to spare.        html) offers Supersaver tickets online.
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2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND 2018-19
                                                                        www.liberoguide.com
                                                               Letzigrund, Zürich                                                                                                                         Lugano

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        intr o
                                                                                                                    BASEL
                                                                                                                                     ZÜRICH

                                                                                                                                                ST GALLEN
                                                                                                      Neuchâtel
                                                                                                                  BERNE          LUCERNE

                                                                                                                          THUN

                                                                                                                                                                           The bottom two from each regional
                                                                                                                                                                           division of the 1.Liga Classic demote
                                                                                                                                           LUGANO                          to the amateur 2.Liga Interregional,
                                                                                                                   SION
                                                                                                                                                                           currently consisting of six regional
                                                                                                                                                                           groups. Each winner goes up to the
                                                                                                                                                                           fourth flight at the end of the season.

                                                                                                                                                                           Below this level, the Swiss league
                                                                                      The last-placed team from the top          FC Zürich cannot gain promotion to        pyramid fans out into a myriad regional
                                                                                      division drops into the second-tier        the Challenge League – otherwise, the     groups, from the sixth-flight 2.Liga to
Those paying full fare can at least take     Tables & trophies                        Challenge League. Also consisting of       winners go up.                            the ninth-tier 5.Liga.
advantage of the City-Ticket scheme          The Swiss Super League consists of       ten teams who play each other home
that incorporates urban transport at         ten teams who play each other home       and away twice, the Challenge League       The bottom two clubs of the               The Swiss Cup, the Schweizer Pokal,
your destination and/or setting-off point.   and away twice. As of 2017-18, the       currently includes FC Vaduz from           Promotion League demote to the            begins with qualifying rounds within
                                             winners no longer gain automatic         Liechtenstein, who can qualify for the     fourth-tier 1.Liga. Their replacements    each level of the nine-rung pyramid
Areas not covered by rail are served         admission into the group stage of the    Europa League by winning the national      are decided by play-off, as the           – between the hundreds of clubs within
by PostBus (www.postauto.ch/en),             Champions League but must enter at       cup organised by the tiny principality.    1.Liga (aka 1.Liga Classic or Erste       the 2.Liga, the 3.Liga, and so on – before
regional buses run by the Swiss Post         the play-off round stage.                                                           Liga, Première Ligue, Prima Lega)         64 teams take part in August’s Round
Office. Some are also the main transport                                              The winners of the Challenge League        comprises three regional groups,          1. This involves all Super League clubs
provider in smaller towns, such as Thun.     Super League runners-up join the         swaps places with the lowest side          roughly French-speaking West,             from two seasons before, the previous
Larger cities have a tram network.           second qualifying round. The third-      from the Super League, with no play-       Central (German) and East (German,        season’s top four from the Promotion
                                             placed side goes into the Europa         off system in place. Similarly, the        Italian and Liechtenstein). The top       League, plus the 40 to have won through
Swiss motorways require drivers to by        League third qualifying round, the       lowest-placed team in the second           two from each of these divisions go       by qualifying.
an annual tax disc (vignette) of SF40,       fourth-placed, the second qualifying     tier demotes to the third rung, the        forward to the eight-team play-off
valid from December 1 of the previous        round. Unless the winners of the Swiss   Promotion League, whose 16 teams           round, accompanied by the two best        In 2017-18, ninth-tier Montfaucon
year to January 31 of the following one.     Cup have already qualified for the       face each other on the traditional         third-placed finishers. Play-offs are     (population 629) made Round 1, only to
They are sold at petrol stations, post       Champions League, then they go into      home-and-away basis. The reserve           home-and-away, the semi-finals            lose 21-0 to Neuchâtel. As for Rounds
offices and customs posts.                   the group stage of the Europa League.    sides of top clubs such as Basel and       producing four winners, the finals two.   2 and 3, the draw is seeded, lower-level
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2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND 2018-19
                                                                        www.liberoguide.com
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Lugano

                                                                                                                                                                                                                         intr o
                                                                                                                                        Au Celtique

                                                                                                                                  Facilities are generally excellent, with      Contents
                                                                                                                                  beer and wine sold at stadium bars.           4 Basel
                                                                                                            Stadio Cornaredo      With Lausanne’s new ground in 2019,           5 FC Basel
                                                                                                                                  and the overhaul of stadiums for Euro         6 Berne
                                                                                                                                  2008, you’ll see the game in comfort,         7 Young Boys
clubs granted home advantage, ties           summer the following June. All stops       than the Super League’s, everything       perhaps with an Alpine backdrop.              8 Lucerne
decided over one game, with extra-time       for the winter break before Christmas,     re-starting in early February and                                                       9 FC Luzern
and penalties if required.                   the spring season starting up in early     running until mid to late May.            Welcome to liberoguide.com!                   10 Lugano
                                             February and running until mid to                                                    The digital travel guide for football fans,   11 FC Lugano
Giantkilling is rare. The quarter-finals     late May. Match days are Saturdays         Entry level                               liberoguide.com is the most up-to-date        12 Neuchâtel
are also one-game affairs, invariably        and Sundays, the usual kick-off            Apart from big games involving FC Basel   resource, city-by-city, club-by-club, to      13 Neuchâtel Xamax
involving top-flight clubs. Semi-finals      times being 4pm or 7pm. Occasional         and Young Boys Berne, availability is     the game across Europe. Using only            14 St Gallen
are over one leg, home advantage             midweek games, on Wednesdays and           rarely a problem and pay-on-the-day       original photos and first-hand research,      15 FC St Gallen
drawn for. The final in May is staged at a   Thursdays, are scheduled for 8pm.          the norm. Cash payments are in Swiss      taken and undertaken over five seasons,       16 Sion
showcase stadium, the Stade de Suisse                                                   francs. Nearly all clubs offer advance    liberoguide.com has been put together         17 FC Sion
in Berne or the Stade de Genève.             The Challenge League sychronises           sales, online and in person.              to enhance every football weekend and         18 Thun
                                             its July kick-off with the top tier. The                                             Euro night experience. From airport to        20 FC Thun
Season’s dealings                            weekly schedule runs from Friday to        A place behind the goals is usually       arena, downtown sports bar to hotel,          20 Zürich
The Swiss Super League starts early,         Monday evenings at 7pm and 8pm.            around SF25, prices rising to around      liberoguide.com helps you get the best        21 Letzigrund
usually in late July, even as early as       Some Sunday games start at 4pm. The        SF50-SF60 on the sidelines. Home fans     out of your visit to football’s furthest      22 Grasshoppers
the third week if it’s a tournament          winter break comes a week earlier          generally have a standing area.           corners and showcase stadiums.                23 FC Zürich

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2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Basel
                                                             www.liberoguide.com/basel
                                                                                                                                                        Basel SBB station   tramline for St Jakob, the Radisson
                                                                                                                                                                            Blu, has a pool and gym.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Basel
                                                                                                                                                                            Also central but cheaper, the Stadthof
                                                                                                                                                                            near Barfüsserplatz occupies a land-
                                                                                                                                                                            mark building dating back to 1295.

                                                                                                                                                                            By picturesque Rheingasse, the historic
                                                                                                                                                                            Hotel Merian am Rhein has balconied
                                                                                                                                                                            rooms overlooking the river.

                                                                                                                                                                            Hotels surround the SBB station. These
                                                                                                                                                                            include upscale chains such as the
                                                                                                                                                                            Dorint as well as traditional railway
                                                                                                                                                                            hotels such as the Euler, the Schweiz-
                                                                                                                                 runs to the main Basel SBB (Swiss rail)    erhof and the Victoria. The conversion
                                                                                                                                 station. Tickets are available from the    of the venerable Helvetia to the self
                                                                                                                                 desk in Arrivals or the machine at the     check-in b-smart motel Basel, how-
                                                                                                                                 stop outside the terminal.                 ever, is a sign of the times.

                                                                                                                                 Based near St Jakob, Taxi-Zentrale (+41    Beer
                                                                                                                                 61 222 2222) charges SF45 from airport     Barfüsserplatz is lined with restau-
                                                                                                                                 to city.                                   rants and cafés – the timeless Rio
                                                                                                                                                                            (No.12) the best bar, the beerhall of
                                                                                                                                 German trains use Basel Bad station, on    Zum Braunen Mutz the best pub.

Basel
                                           Turkey. Four months later, Basel faced      The St Jakob stadium was built for the    the other side of the Rhine.
                                           their historic cousins FC Barcelona in      1954 World Cup, seeing 44 goals in                                                   For TV sport, Swiss pub chain Mr Pick-
                                           the Champions League.The two clubs          six games. These included the hosts       City transport consists of trams and       wick is central and displays seriously
Basel may adjoin France and Germany        were formed by the same man, Jo-            dumping Italy out of the competition,     buses. A day pass is SF9.90, a single      recherché retro football artefacts.
but this Rhine river port is the hotbed    hannes (‘Hans’) Kamper, a young Swiss       4-1. The game established the Joggeli’s   ticket SF3.80 but local hotels offer a     Nearby Jerry’s is where the Swiss go
of Swiss football. St Jakob Park, home     entrepreneur. On November 12, 1893,         credentials as a real football ground,    Mobility Ticket giving checking-in         to watch big matches. It’s also a decent
of eight-time consecutive champions        he saw an ad in the ‘National-Zeitung’      with crowd scenes never before seen in    guests free use of public transport.       late-night cocktail spot. The prominent
FC Basel and stage for the 2016 Europa     asking to form a football club, FC Basel.   sleepy Switzerland.                                                                  Irish bar, big on sport, is Paddy Reilly’s
League Final, has the country’s fieriest   Five years later, business took Kamper                                                Bed                                        near the station.
atmosphere.                                to Barcelona. There he became Joan          Bearings                                  The Basel Tourist Office (www.basel.
                                           Gamper and founded FC Barcelona.            Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg Airport           com/en) has a hotel-booking service.       On Rheingasse, Fischerstube is a
The ‘Joggeli’ was rebuilt for Euro 2008,   Back home, Basel didn’t become a            is actually in France, 6km (4 miles)                                                 homely old bar that serves its own Ueli
staging the opening match and dramatic     regular on the European circuit until       north-west of Basel. Bus No.50 (every     There are no hotels near the stadium.      lager – regulars take turns to play the
semi-final, Germany’s 3-2 win over         the 1970s.                                  8-10min, 17min journey time, SF4.70)      Close to Aeschenplatz on the No.14         piano.
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2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 FC Basel
                                                         www.liberoguide.com/fc-basel
                                                                                                                                                                           Tickets

                                                                                                                                                                                                                       FC Basel
                                                                                                                                                                           There’s a ticket office (Mon-Fri 9.30am-
                                                                                                                                                                           6.30pm, Sat 9am-6pm) at the back of
                                                                                                                                                                           the club shop behind Stand A. Online
                                                                                                                                                                           sales are German-language only.

                                                                                                                                                                           The best seats in Stand A are SF65-
                                                                                                                                                                           SF75, while a decent spot in Stand C
                                                                                                                                                                           opposite is SF48-SF59. Tickets behind
                                                                                                                                                                           the goals, and in the away sector are
                                                                                                                                                                           SF25.

                                                                                                                                                                           Shop & Museum
                                                                                                                                wisdom of holding the 2016 Europa          Behind Stand A, the FC Basel Shop
                                                                                                                                League Final at such a relatively small    (Mon-Fri 9.30am-6.30pm, Sat 9am-
                                                                                                                                arena was questioned.                      6pm, match days) stocks souvenirs
                                                                                                                                                                           from doormats to FCB-branded
                                                                                                                                Today’s Joggeli comprises four stands,     condoms.
                                                                                                                                lettered A-D, A being the main stand
                                                                                                                St Jakob Park
                                                                                                                                with the best seats, and bars and          At the back of the main store is a ticket
                                                                                                                                restaurants behind it. Stands B and        office, beside which is a discreet FCB
                                                                                                                                home end D are behind the goals. Away      Museum. Among the artefacts is a

FC Basel
                                            This is not the elegant St Jakob built for                                          fans are allocated sectors B1 and B2       photo of the teams before Basel took
                                            the 1954 World Cup, but a late 1990s                                                between Stand A and B.                     on the great Uruguay side, Olympic
                                            rebuild, inaugurated in 2001, for Euro                                                                                         champions in 1924.
Formed in 1893 by Hans Kamper, the          2008.                                                                               Transport
later Joan Gamper who also founded                                                                                              The St Jakob has its own train station     Bars
FC Barcelona, FC Basel (fcb.ch/en-          Set beside a railway line and the St                                                behind Stand C, with a regular direct      The only venue near the ground is the
US/Home) are the top dogs of Swiss          Alban stream, it allowed little room for                                            connection (8min) with Basel SBB           Wirtshaus St Jakob (St.Jakobs-Straße
football. Title winners eight times         expansion when Basel was awarded                                                    station on match days only.                377), a traditional restaurant that has
running, FC Basel have dominated            hosting rights for Euro 2008. The                          Basel Fan Shop/Museum
                                                                                                                                                                           been serving guests since 1526.
the Swiss game since the turn of the        solution was to rebuild.                                                            Regular transport is provided by
millennium.                                                                                                                     tram No.14 (direction Pratteln) that       At the stadium, behind Stand A, the
                                            Carried out by Basel-based architects        While capacity for Euro 2008 was       runs every 7min from downtown              Rotblau Bar-Bistro is decorated with
FCB’s 38,500-capacity St Jakob Park, or     Herzog & De Meuron, of Tate Modern           42,500, seats were later removed       Barfüsserplatz eight stops away. It also   old sports cuttings outside, and tasteful
‘Joggeli’, is two miles south-east of the   and Allianz Arena fame, this cost of         to provide more spectator comfort,     passes through Aeschenplatz, linked        football iconography. Menfolk can lay
city centre, part of a shopping complex     reconstruction was SF 220 million,           reducing the maximum accommodation     by tram No.15 to the station. Allow 10-    into big burgers and Schlossgold beers
and opposite a group of sports halls and    creating a three-floor retail complex        to 38,500. Considering the huge        12min from town. The tram drops you        while kids get their own menu and a
pitches.                                    of some 30 shops.                            numbers heading from Liverpool, the    right by Main Stand A.                     table football table.
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2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Berne
                                                         www.liberoguide.com/berne

Berne

                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Berne
Outside the Stade de Suisse in Berne
stands a reconstructed version of the
famous Longines clock that timed
matches here when this was the
Wankdorfstadion.
                                                                                                                                                                                                             Leichtsinn
The scoreline on it reads ‘Ungarn 2
Deutschland 3’. The World Cup Final
of 1954, a shock German win over a                                                                                                                                                Finally the hostel-like Hotel Glocke at
previously unbeatable Hungary one                                                                                                                                                 Rathausgasse 75 has a mix of singles,
wet July afternoon, changed football                                                                                                                                              doubles and multi-bed rooms with shared
history.                                                                                                                                                                          bathrooms, plus private doubles.

Set in the middle of Switzerland,                                                                                                                                                 Beer
easily accessible from the main                                                                                                                                                   Bars dot the Old Town. Many gather
airports of Basel and Zürich, this                                                                                                                                                on the terrace of the Leichtsinn at
charming, cobbled capital hosted                                                                                                                                                  Kornhausplatz 10 to watch match
three matches for Euro 2008, the                                                                                                                                                  action – inside is an intimate, two-
Wankdorf knocked down to make way                                                                                                                                                 floor contemporary space.
for the eco-friendly Stade de Suisse.
                                                                                                                                                                                  Round the corner, Rathausgasse is
A regular venue for the Swiss Cup                                                                                                                                                 lined with cellar bars, most only open
Final, Berne is also home of Young                                                                                                                                                after dark.
Boys (www.bscyb.ch). Twelve times
league champions, Young Boys were       The nearest airports are Basel 117km (73     transport is free for match-ticket holders   Ibis Budget Bern Expo stands alongside.         At the edge of the Old Town, GOAL
a constant presence in the top three    miles) and Zürich 140km (87 miles) away.     for three hours before kick-off and two                                                      at Junkerngasse 1 is a football bar
of the Swiss Super League from 2008                                                  hours after.                                 Also in the vicinity at Militärstraße 38, the   with a YB bent, where Swiss, Italian,
onwards until the long-awaited title    A direct train service runs from Zürich                                                   Hotel Jardin is a traditional, mid-range        German, English and Spanish top-
win of 2017-18.                         Airport (1hr 25min) and Basel SBB (1hr)      Bed                                          lodging with its own restaurant.                league matches are screened in
                                        to Berne station, a shortish stroll to the   The Berne Tourist Office (bern.com/en/                                                       a cellar that once hosted a Louis
Bearings                                city centre. The Stade de Suisse is over     detail/tourist-information) has a hotel-     In the Old Town. Equally old-school             Armstrong aftershow in 1955.
Berne airport, 9km (5.5 miles) south-   the river north-east of town.                booking service.                             hotels include the historic Hotel Bern          Other soccer-friendly spots include
east of town, is no longer used by                                                   The nearest hotel to the Stade de Suisse     at Zeughausgasse 9, the Goldener                Mr Pickwick on Wallgasse near
Berne-based SkyWork Airlines,           Buses and trams form Berne’s transport       is the four-star, business-friendly Hotel    Schlüssel at Rathausgasse 72 and                the station and, on Spitalgasse, the
which went bust in 2018. Currently it   network. A single ticket is SF2.60, SF13     Novotel Bern Expo, by the terminus of the    the more affordable Metropole at                Nelson, both Berne branches of
only serves summer charters.            for six journeys or a day pass. Public       No.9 tram. The more budget-conscious         Zeughausgasse 26.                               nationwide chains.
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2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Young Boys
                                                   www.liberoguide.com/young-boys
                                                                                                                                                                  Eleven    9am-5pm) in the Wankdorf Center,

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Young boys
                                                                                                                                                                            Papiermühlestraße 85, also distributes.

                                                                                                                                                                            Online sales are dealt with by Eventim
                                                                                                                                                                            and TicketCorner.

                                                                                                                                                                            On match days, kiosks on three
                                                                                                                                                                            corners of the stadium open 90min
                                                                                                                                                                            before kick-off. Kassenhaus 1 on
                                                                                                                                                                            Papiermühlestraße and Kassenhaus 3
                                                                                                                                                                            on Sempachstraße then close 15min
                                                                                                                                                                            before the match starts, Kassenhaus 2
                                                                                                                                                                            stays open.
                                                                                                                                  Home fans gather behind the goal in the
                                                                                                                                  Ostkurve, even-numbered sectors D2-       Prices start at SF25 to stand in the
                                                                                                                                  D14 standing. Away fans are allocated     home end, Tribüne D sectors, and SF35
                                                                                                                                  B12-B15 in a corner of the opposite       to sit – places limited. In Tribüne B
                                                                                                                                  end. The best seats and boxes are         behind the opposite goal, it’s SF35, and
                                                                                                                                  accessed through Quartierplatz, the       SF25 for away fans in the Gästesektor,
                                                                                                                                  pedestrianised square containing the      B13 and B15.
                                                                                                                                  Restaurant Eleven.
                                                                                                                                                                            Along the sidelines in Tribüne A or C,
                                                                                                                                  Transport                                 prices run from SF45 to SF70 for prime
                                                                                              Wankdorfstadion/ Stade de Suisse
                                                                                                                                  Bern Wankdorf S-Bahn stop is by the       seats.
                                                                                                                                  stadium, 5min from Bern main station
                                                                                                                                  on lines S1, S2, S3, S31 and S44.         Shop

Young Boys
                                            Built in 1925, the then 22,000-capacity    Wankdorf was closed in 2001, Swiss                                                   At the YB-Fanshop (Mon-Fri noon-
                                            Wankdorf, named after this area of         watchmakers Longines renovated the         Alternatively, tram No.9 leaves every     6.30pm, Sat 9am-noon, 1pm-5pm,
                                            north-east Berne, was remodelled and       famous clock from 1954 to stand outside    5-10min from outside the station (eight   match days) in the Wankdorf Center,
The flagship club of the Swiss capital,     expanded to a 64,000-capacity stadium      the new Stade de Suisse, a high-tech       stops, 10min), via the main square of     Gäub-Schwarz paraphernalia includes
Young Boys (www.bscyb.ch) were              worthy of staging a World Cup final. On    rebuild. Built for Euro 2008, the Stade    Zytglogge (6 stops, 7min).                T-shirts bearing the foundation date of
crowned champions in 2017-18, after         July 4 1954, all-conquering Hungary        opened in 2005, solar panels covering an                                             1898, plus replica shirts.
three consecutive finishes as runners-up.   fell to West Germany, a turning point in   artificial pitch and 32,000 seats.         Tickets
                                            football history.                                                                     Ticketing (Mon-Fri 8am-noon, 1pm-         Bars
The Gäub-Schwarz were founded in                                                       Attracting Switzerland’s second biggest    5pm) at Papiermühlestraße 71 (third       By the stadium on Quartierplatz, Eleven
1898 by students from Berne University,     Three years later, YB won their first      crowds after Basel, YB have put in         floor) sells advance tickets, including   (Mon-Fri 8.30am-11pm, Sat 5pm-11pm,
inspired by Basel’s Old Boys in yellow      of four consecutive championships.         credible title challenges, gained a draw   by email (ticket@bscyb.ch) from14         Sun match days only) offers quality
and black. Early success led to the         This side also made the semi-final of      with Liverpool and wins over Napoli and    days before the game. The YB-             Italian food, live match screenings and
construction of the Wankdorfstadion.        the European Cup in 1959. When the         Udinese in the Europa League.              Fanshop (Mon-Fri noon-6.30pm, Sat         YB souvenirs.
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SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Lucerne
                                                       www.liberoguide.com/lucerne
                                                                                                                                                                             In town, the Luzernerhof on Alpenstraße

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          lucerne
                                                                                                                                                                             is a reliable mid-range choice close
                                                                                                                                                                             to the lake. Nearby Rebstock on St
                                                                                                                                                                             Leodegarstraße has a sister operation
                                                                                                                                                                             the Hotel Hofgarten on Stadthofstraße.

                                                                                                                                                                             Overlooking the lake and the Chapel
                                                                                                                                                                             Bridge, the Hôtel des Alpes is classier
                                                                                                                                                             Hotel Spatz
                                                                                                                                                                             (and pricier) than its three-star
                                                                                                                                                                             status might indicate. Alongside, the
                                                                                                                                                                             Pickwick is attached to the chain pub of
                                                                                                                                                                             the same name, with simpler, cheaper
                                                                                                                                                                             rooms, all with waterfront views and
                                                                                                                                                                             most with balconies.

                                                                                                                                                                             Beer
                                                                                                                                                                             Perhaps because of its location in the
                                                                                                                                                                             middle of Switzerland, this city with
                                                                                                                                                           Chapel Bridge
                                                                                                                                                                             one Swiss title to its name has plenty of
                                                                                                                                                                             football bars. Eichhof is the local beer.
                                                                                                                                                                             Boat restaurants offer it with a view –
                                                                                                                                  A valid match ticket allows free use       though at a price.
                                                                                                                                  of the bus or S-Bahn to and from the
                                                                                                               Lake Lucerne
                                                                                                                                  stadium for up to three hours before and   Pick of the pubs is Legends Luzern. Run
                                                                                                                                  after the game.                            by the indefatigable Billy, it is a tucked
                                                                                                                                                                             away near the lake on Löwenstraße.

Lucerne
                                          minutes, to the site of the old Stadion   Bearings                                      Ernst Hess taxis (+41 41 310 10 10) are    Nearby Anfield Pub (Seehofstraße 7) is
                                          Allmend that served the club from 1934.   The nearest airport is Zürich 67km (41.5      based near the swissporeana.               a somewhat predictably themed sports
                                                                                    miles) away. One train an hour runs                                                      bar, busy for big matches.
The lakeside resort of Lucerne is as      Overlooked for the 1954 World Cup and     directly from Zürich Airport to Lucerne       Bed
pretty a setting as you’ll find for a     Euro 2008, railway hub Lucerne is set     1hr away, tickets SF28.                       The Lucerne Tourist Office (www.luzern.    The Lucerne branch of Swiss chain Mr
football match – even in Switzerland.     in the heart of Switzerland, convenient                                                 com/en/index.cfm) has a hotel-booking      Pickwick sticks to the standard formula
Home of flagship club FC Luzern, the      from Zurich, Berne and Basel.             Buses comprise the public transport. A        service.                                   of its counterparts but also offers an
swissporarena is not lakeside but close                                             single ticket is SF3.20, a day pass SF6.40.                                              unsurpassable view of the lake from its
to snow-capped mountains, and by a        A top-flight proposition since 2006,      The Swissporaeana is in the same zone         The only hotel near the stadium is the     terrace. It has rooms upstairs.
classic Swiss chalet restaurant.          FC Luzern have lost three cup finals      101 as Lucerne station. There’s an            Spatz, with its own restaurant. Prices
                                          in recent years but, in Swiss terms,      S-Bahn regional train network that also       are about 20% higher in high season,       On the other bank on Wagenbachgasse,
A city bus takes you there from           manage to attract healthy crowds, quite   serves the stadium. A single ticket is        which runs between April and October       the Irish-run Shamrock Irish Pub has a
Lucerne’s busy station in less than ten   used to European football.                SF3, day pass SF6.                            inclusive.                                 raised terrace in the Old Town.
                                                                                                                                                                                                      liberoguide.com 8
2018-19 SWITZERLAND - www.liberoguide.com - Libero Guide
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 FC Luzern
                                                    www.liberoguide.com/fc-luzern
                                                                                                                                                                         Horwerstraße. Visiting fans should use

                                                                                                                                                                                                                     FC Luzern
                                                                                                                                                                         kiosk No.5, cash only.

                                                                                                                                                                         Online sales operate through the
                                                                                                                                                                         Eventim (eventimsports.de/ols/
                                                                                                                                                                         fcluzern) via the club website.

                                                                                                                                                                         For domestic fixtures, standing tickets
                                                                                                                                                                         (B Tribüne) are SF28. Seats alongside
                                                                                                                                                                         are SF33, SF41 behind the opposite goal
                                                                                                                                                                         (D Tribüne), and SF58 in the sideline
                                                                                                                                                                         C Tribüne. Seats in the A Tribüne are
                                                                                                                                                                         SF62-100. Visiting fans are charged a
                                                                                                                              Transport                                  flat SF28 for a seat in sector C6.
                                                                                                                              The transport stop by the stadium is
                                                                                                                              for the No.20 bus (every 7min). It takes   For all-seated European games,
                                                                                                                              7min from Lucerne train station, where     admission is cheaper at SF43-70 in A,
                                                                                                                              the stop is clearly marked near the        SF23 in B, SF29 in D, and SF41-48 in C.
                                                                                                                              archway.                                   Away fans are charged SF20.

                                                                                                                              Alternatively, towards town by the         Shop
                                                                                                                              roundabout, Allmend/Messe S-Bahn           You’ll find toy FCL lions amid the blue
                                                                                                                              is one stop south on the S4 (direction     T-shirts and kits at the FCL-Fanshop
                                                                                                                              Stans or Wolfenschlessen) and S5           (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm) behind D Tribüne.
                                                                                                                              (direction Giswil) lines from Lucerne
                                                                                                            swissporarena
                                                                                                                              station. Trains leave every 15min,         Bars
                                                                                                                              usually from platform 14.                  By the stadium, the Wirtschaft
                                                                                                                                                                         zum Schützenhaus is a traditional

FC Luzern
                                         long envied the success of Basel or       Completed in 2011, it comprises a          A match ticket allows use of the bus or    restaurant in Swiss chalet style.
                                         Grasshopper Zürich.                       distinctive gold-tinted exterior, with     S-Bahn to and from the stadium for up
                                                                                   interior seating in blue, FCL lettering    to three hours either side of the game.    Allmend (Moosmattstraße 51) is
Europa League competitors in 2017-18,    FCL had the courage to invest in the      clearly outlined. For domestic fixtures,                                              attached to the bowling alley where FCL
FC Luzern (www.fcl.ch) have rarely set   future, the €65 million swissporarena,    3,000 standing places fill sectors B2-3    Tickets                                    players changed in the park-pitch days.
the Swiss League alight but can count    replacing the venerable Allmend           in the home end, B Tribüne (blue).         Advance tickets are sold at the FCL-
on a loyal and lively fan base.          on the club’s 110th anniversary.                                                     Fanshop (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm) behind           On Horwerstraße, the Militärgarten
                                         Architects Daniel Marques and Iwan        Away fans are allocated C6, at the other   D Tribüne and at the LZ-Corner of the      was opened before FCL were founded.
FCL have only three major trophies       Bühler created a contemporary,            end of Tribüne C (red), facing the main    ‘Neue Luzerner Zeitung’ (Pilatusstraße     Scarves decorate a wooden interior,
to their name, one title and two cups,   17,000-capacity venue also suitable for   stand, Tribüne A (yellow). Tribüne D       12) in town. On match days, kiosks 1       where Eichhof and Hubertus dark ale
and their fans in blue-and-white have    Switzerland internationals.               (green) is behind the other goal.          and 2 operate behind A Tribüne on main     are served. It has a terrace, too.
                                                                                                                                                                                                 liberoguide.com 9
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Lugano
                                                          www.liberoguide.com/lugano
                                                                                                                                     Trinity

                                                                                                                                                                                                                         lugano
                                                                                                                                                                                                           Olimpia

                                                                                                                                  (valid 30min) is SF1.90, a day pass         set around a pre-war delicatessen,
                                                                                                                                  (carta giornaliera) SF7.20. You’ll need a   Mediterranean restaurant and bar.
                                                                                                                                  bus for the stadium. Some hotels offer
                                                                                                                                  free public transport if you book a room    Also in the centre, the Pestalozzi
                                                                                                                                  through their website.                      hides recently rooms behind a historic
                                                                                                                                                                              façade. Nearby, the family-run Zurigo
                                                                                                                                  Taxi Luganese (+41 91 967 24 24) is a       Garni has been in operation since 1951.
                                                                                                                                  reliable local firm.
                                                                                                                                                                              By the station, the Continental
                                                                                                                    Seven
                                                                                                                                  Bed                                         Parkhotel echoes the steam era.
                                                                                                                                  Lugano Turismo (luganoturismo.ch)
                                                                                                                                  has online booking.                         Beer

Lugano
                                           Still based at the same quaint              Milan’s Malpensa and Linate airports                                                   On the main square, piazza Riforma,
                                           municipal stadium, i Bianco-Neri            are 90km (56 miles) and 100km (62          For age-old hospitality by the              the classic Olimpia dates back to 1845,
                                           enjoyed a run in the Europa League in       miles) from Lugano. Lugano Servizi         waterfront, the classic Hotel               its lived-in bar where older Lugano
By the pretty lake of the same name, in    2017-18.                                    and Malpensa Express buses run             International has an outdoor pool           supporters meet. On the waterfront,
the Italian-speaking region of Ticino by                                               10-12 times a day between Malpensa         in summer while the Walter Au Lac           the Bar Vela has sport on TV and tables
Switzerland’s twisting border with its     The Cornaredo is also home to Rapid         terminals 1-2 and piazzale Besso           Lugano features a roof terrace.             outside overlooking the lake.
southern neighbour, Lugano is more         Lugano, in the regional Ticino divisions.   in Lugano (1hr 20min journey time,
suited to pleasure boats, Eurovision       The stadium is almost as close to           €25/€40 return). There is no direct        Set back from the waterfront, the San       Further round the lake, chic Seven
Song Contests and financial services       the Italian border as it is to Lugano’s     public transport from Linate to Lugano.    Carlo is a more affordable two-star         is a sport-forward lounge bar, with
than football.                             landmark casino.                                                                       and, by the foot of the funicular, the      a waterfront terrace. Upscale chatty
                                                                                       From Milano Centrale, a EuroCity train     Acquarello Swiss Quality Hotel is           Bistro Lugano near the Hotel Zurigo
FC Lugano found success in the 1940s.      Bearings                                    takes 1hr 10min, internet price €23.       another handy and affordable find.          Garni buzzes during aperitivi hour.
The Stadio Cornaredo was built for         Lugano Airport 4km (2.5 miles) west         Lugano station stands high over the        Nearby, the Hotel Lugano Dante is
the 1954 World Cup, 24,000 Italians        of town receives regular services from      city, connected by funicular. City buses   a notch-above four-star. Round the          Irish pub Trinity is at via Canonica 19,
cheered a 4-1 win over Belgium.            Zürich and Geneva.                          serve town and station. A single ticket    corner, Gabbani is an urban lodging         by a waterway that leads from the lake.
                                                                                                                                                                                                    liberoguide.com 10
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 FC Lugano
                                                      www.liberoguide.com/fc-lugano

FC Lugano

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          F C LUGANO
The biggest club in Ticino, Ital-
ian-speaking Switzerland, FC Lugano
(fclugano.com) are enjoying a modest
revival. Swiss Cup finalists in 2016,
the Bianconeri came within a point of
qualification from the group stage of the
Europa League in 2017.

In 2003, Lugano had been forcibly
relegated, then declared bankrupt. A
new outfit, AC Lugano, was created,
formed of under-21 players. In 2004,
it merged with nearby FC Malcantone
Agno, and became FC Lugano, again,
in 2008.

The Bianconeri last won the Swiss title
in 1949. Lugano then prepared for 1954                                                                                                                   Stadio Cornaredo
World Cup hosting by building a new
ground. As elegant today as when it
opened in 1951, the Stadio Cornaredo        The Stadio Cornaredo also hosts lower-    the stadium or via national agency         Shop                                          Behind the Curva Sud, the Buvette
is a classic Swiss stadium backdropped      league Rapid Lugano – supporters have     ticketcorner which also distributes        The main outlet is the Lugano Store,          Rapid is a small, basic bar with a
by dramatic hillsides and under             their own bar behind the Curva Sud.       online. On match days, tickets are sold    a match-day kiosk behind the Tribuna          terrace overlooking the adjoining
seemingly permanent bright blue skies.                                                at the kiosks behind each goal.            Monte Brè. FCL shirts with the cool V         training pitch. There’s also a Buvette
                                            Transport                                                                            across the chest come in black, white         Monte Brè on match days, serving local
Crowds have dropped dramatically            From Lugano station, lines No.4 and       The cheapest seats (SF25) are in the       and red versions and there are also the       Luganighetta spiral sausages.
since the 1950s but the graceful main       No.6 take 10min to reach the stadium.     Spalti, the areas either side of the       standard frilly pennants, scarves and
stand, the Tribuna Centrale, remains,       From Lugano Centro, on via Pestalozzi     central seats in the main stand, as far    keyrings.                                     The main venues are the Osteria
on via Trevano that runs from town.         near the Hotel Zurigo Garni, the No.7     as the home and away sectors behind                                                      Bianconero and adjoining Bar Lugano
                                            also takes 10min. The No.3 from via       each goal.                                 Bars                                          behind the main stand. The restaurant
Opposite, the Tribuna Monte Brè holds       Pestalozzi runs along the waterfront, a                                              Behind the Curva Nord, the Pizzeria           operates during the week until early
almost half the current 6,330 capacity.     pretty ride to the ground 15min away.     A seat in the Tribuna Monte Brè is SF40,   Resega (via Sanvico 1) has been in the        evening.
Each end is open to the elements, home                                                under-14s SF15, under-6s free. The         Albieri family for decades. A lovely little
ultras gathered in the Curva Nord, up to    Tickets                                   main stand is divided into the Tribuna     tavern run by an equally affable old          For match days, reserve via
800 away supporters accommodated in         Tickets are sold from the club office     Laterale (settore 1 & 4, SF65) and         landlord, it offers wood-fired pizzas and     ristorazione@fclugano.ch. The bar
the Curva Sud.                              (Mon-Fri 9am-noon, 2pm-5pm) at            Centrale (settore 2 & 3, SF80).            Feldschlösschen beer.                         serves Calanda beer from Chur.
                                                                                                                                                                                                     liberoguide.com 11
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Neuchâtel
                                                                       www.liberoguide.com
                                                                                                                                                                        In the same vicinity, the Hôtel du

                                                                                                                                                                                                                    N e u c h ât e l
                                                                                                                                                                        Marché is more restaurant/terrace
                                                                                                                                                                        café than hotel, with ten basic rooms
                                                                                                                                                                        upstairs.

                                                                                                                                                                        Further up by the castle and funicular
                                                                                                                                                                        station, neat, 22-room Hotel de
                                                                                                                                                                        L’Ecluse suits the modern urban
                                                                                                                                                                        traveller.

                                                                                                                                                                        Beer
                                                                                                                              Bed                                       Pubs and bars dot the historic centre,
                                                                                                                              Neuchâtel Tourisme                        many with terraces overlooking the
                                                                                                                              (neuchateltourisme.ch/en) has an          picturesque surroundings.
                                                                                                                              accommodation database that links to
                                                                                                                              a booking site.                           Among them, the main Irish-style place
                                                                                                                                                                        for live sport and live music is the Café
                                                                                                                              The nearest lodging to the stadium is     du Cerf on rue Ancien-Hôtel-de-Ville,
                                                                                                                              the contemporary Hôtel des Arts one       showing Premier League action. On
                                                                                                                              tram stop away at Université. In the      nearby places des Halles, popular Le
                                                                                                                              same family, the Hôtel Alpes et Lac       Charlot offers some 30 beers and a
                                                                                                                              serves the train station over the road,   prominent terrace. Across the square,
                                                                                                                              a modernised railway hotel with lake      the upscale Prestige Club specialises
                                                                                                                              views from the restaurant terrace.        in wine.

                                                                                                                              Overlooking the lake, a short stroll      On rue des Fausses-Brayes, the

Neuchâtel
                                            Cantonal and FC Xamax in 1970, the         Neuchâtel station is equidistant       from the stadium, the pricier Best        Great Glen Scottish Tavern shows
                                            new club was overseen by, of all people,   from the town centre and the           Western Premier Hotel Beaulac             major games and has a plentiful beer
                                            Sepp Blatter, president in the early       Stade de la Maladière towards          makes best use of its waterside           selection. Nearby Les Brasseurs
A pretty historic town by the lake of the   years.                                     the lake. A funicular also connects    location.                                 started out as artisanal brewers in
same name, Neuchâtel is the home of                                                    the station to the university below.                                             Geneva in 1997, and set up in Neuchâtel
two-time Swiss champions Neuchâtel          Home since 1924 has been Stade de          Trolleybuses and funiculars are run    Further along the waterfront and close    ten years later. Across the road, Le
Xamax. Forced out of existence in 2012,     la Maladière, overlooking the lake and     by the regional Transport Publics      to the town centre, Hotel Touring au      Bistrot du Concert provides a classic
Xamax took six years to climb back up       reasonably close to Neuchâtel station.     Neuchâtelois. You can buy regular      Lac is an old-school three-star. In the   zinc-bar, terrace-café experience.
the Swiss league pyramid and regain                                                    tickets (2.30SF/30min journey) from    historic centre itself, the Auberg’Inn
top-tier status in 2018.                    Bearings                                   machines at stops.                     offers a mix of rooms in a building       In the shadow of the château, the Café
                                            From Geneva Airport 126km (78 miles)                                              dating back 500 years. Alongside, the     de la Collegiale on the steep, cobbled
Neuchâtel Xamax are a post-war              away, a direct hourly train takes 1hr      Taxi-Kam (+41 32 725 22 22) has a      Aubier is run by the café downstairs      street of the same name offers all kinds
construct. Created from a merger of FC      20min to reach Neuchâtel (24SF).           10SF minimum fee per ride.             – guests should arrive by 7pm.            of beers and a stunning panoramic view.
                                                                                                                                                                                               liberoguide.com 12
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Neuchâtel Xamax
                                                                    www.liberoguide.com
                                                                                                                                                                             Tickets

                                                                                                                                                                                                                         N e u c h ât e l X a m a x
                                                                                                                                                                             Tickets are sold online for three or
                                                                                                                                                                             four home games in advance. For
                                                                                                                                                                             information, call +41 32 847 95 98
                                                                                                                                                                             (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm).

                                                                                                                                                                             The ticket office opens 1hr before kick-
                                                                                                                                                                             off and sell-outs are rare.

                                                                                                                              prettier than its unpromisingly functional     The cheapest admission is SF25 in the
                                                                                                                              exterior suggests. Done out in signature       home end, or anywhere in Tribune D
                                                                                                                              red and black, the stadium has a low           and B, away fans able to pay on the day.
                                                                                                                              curving roof along each sideline, offering     A decent seat along sideline Tribune C
                                                                                                                              views of the hillsides. All is offset by the   Nord, or in the corners, is SF40-SF45.
                                                                                                                              bright green of the artificial turf.
                                                                                                                                                                             Shop
                                                                                                                              Stands are designed A-D, all numbered          The Boutique Xamax is in the
                                                                                                                              apart from section D4 in the home end,         Maladière Centre mall surrounding
                                                                                                                              Tribune Est. Tribune (Ouest) B is mainly       the stadium. First-team tops of red and
                                                                                                                              for visiting supporters, allocated B1-B3.      black melting into each other differs
                                                                                                                              The main stand, Tribune A Sud, is VIP-         from the classic stripes of 2017-18.
                                                                                                      Stade de la Maladière
                                                                                                                              only.                                          Second kit is canary yellow.

                                                                                                                              Transport                                      Bars

Neuchâtel Xamax
                                          And that youngster was Max ‘Xam’                                                    Even though public transport for match-        Between stadium and waterfront, the
                                          Abegglen, one of three brothers who                                                 ticket holders is free from 2hrs before        Café des Amis is more a restaurant,
                                          would later earn more than 100 caps                                                 and after the game, in practice the best       but you’re welcome to find a terrace
A familiar if unusual name from           for Switzerland between them.                                                       way to reach the stadium from the town         table, order a Swiss beer and gaze at
European competitions in the 1980s                                                                                            centre is to walk.                             the lake.
and 1990s, Neuchâtel Xamax (xamax.        Formed as Xamax in 1912, the team
ch) must be the only case of a top-tier   played its first match in 1916, which                                               Bus No.121 serving Maladière runs              Right on the water, Vio offers wok-
club being founded by a ten-year-old      was when FC Cantonal, won their only                                                every 15min Mon-Sat only, up to 8.20pm,        based and grilled dishes – and that
boy.                                      Swiss title. Cantonal then built the                                                and takes 4min to run the four stops from      fabulous view. If you’re not in the mood
                                          Stade de la Maladière in 1924, rebuilt                                              central place Pury.                            for Thai soup, you can order a glass of
That club, FC Xamax, later fused          and reopened in 2007.                    crammed into the old ground for the                                                       draught Heineken at standard Swiss
with Neuchâtel-Sports, known for                                                   visit of Real Madrid in 1986.              From the train station, take the               prices.
six decades as FC Cantonal, to create     Part of a sport, leisure and retail                                                 Fun’ambule funicular down to the lower
Neuchâtel Xamax in 1970.                  complex, the new ground holds 12,000,    Home to 54 shops, including one stocking   terminus at Université. The stadium is a       In the ground, kiosks serve Boxer beer
                                          just less than half the crowd that       Xamax merchandise, the stadium is          5-7min walk or one bus stop away.              from Yverdon.
                                                                                                                                                                                                    liberoguide.com 13
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 St Gallen
                                                      www.liberoguide.com/st-gallen
                                                                                                                                                           Café Hörnli      close, New Star also has its own car

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        St Gallen
                                                                                                                                                                            park. Staying near the stadium means
                                                                                                                                                                            that you’ll be far from town.

                                                                                                                                                                            Near St Gallen station, the Metropol
                                                                                                                                                                            has been serving rail travellers for over
                                                                                                                                                                            a century while the four-star Walhalla
                                                                                                                                                                            St Gallen features a popular brasserie.

                                                                                                                                                                            By Marktplatz, traditional Hotel Am
                                                                                                                                                                            Ring gleams with historic chintz. Across
                                                                                                                                                                            the street, the Weisses Kreuz offers
                                                                                                                                                                            mid-range rooms and a modern bar.

                                                                                                                                                                            Am Spisertor by the station of the same
                                                                                                                                                                            name comprises 12 basic rooms with
                                                                                                                                                                            limited reception hours at weekends.

                                                                                                                                                                            Beer
                                                                                                                                                                            A bar hub clusters around
                                                                                                                                                                            Augustinergasse, Engelgasse and
                                                                                                                 St Gallen                                 O-Five Pub
                                                                                                                                                                            Metzgergasse near Marktplatz. On
                                                                                                                                                                            Metzgergasse, Gallus offers those
                                                                                                                                                                            watching a whole St Gallen game a free

St Gallen
                                           Grün-Weißen then went almost an            western outskirts of town, was renamed   pass via the station near the city centre.   drink should the Green-and-Whites win.
                                           entire century trophy-less.                kybunpark.                               Match-ticket holders and many local          The traditional Hörnli on Marktplatz
                                                                                                                               hotel guests travel for free. A single       is where the meeting took place to
The tranquil shores of Lake Constance      The club’s long-term home was              Bearings                                 ticket is otherwise SF2.40, a day pass       form FC St Gallen. Nearby, the Süd
that divide Switzerland from Germany       Espenmoos, its record attendance           The nearest international airport to     Tageskarte SF6.40. Based near St             Bar attracts young hipsters with varied
and Austria are where football took root   of 16,200 set in 1985 with the visit of    St Gallen is Zürich 87km (54 miles)      Gallen station, Herold Taxi (+41 71 2222     beers and cocktails until the early
in Europe. On the Swiss side, St Gallen    Internazionale in the UEFA Cup. Fifteen    away. A half-hourly train runs direct    777) accepts credit cards.                   hours. Behind it, Seeger is another St
is home to the oldest club side still in   years later, it witnessed St Gallen lift   from the airport to St Gallen, journey                                                Gallen landmark, a bar/restaurant with
existence on the Continent.                their first league title in 96 years.      time 50min-1hr, single SF14.50. If       Bed                                          a popular terrace.
                                                                                      you’re going straight to kybunpark       St Gallen Bodensee Tourist
On 19 April 1879, an advert in the St      St Gallen’s senior side moved out to       stadium, the hourly ICN train allows     Information (www.st.gallen-bodensee.         Towards the station, the O-Five Pub on
Galler Tagblatt announced a meeting        a new-build on the eve of Euro 2008,       you to change at Gossau for Winkeln,     ch/en) has a hotel database and              Poststraße provides jugs of Guinness
at the Hörnli restaurant, with a view to   Switzerland christening the AFG Arena      and reach the stadium in 1hr from        booking function. Near kybunpark             to go with the European match action.
starting a football club. FC St Gallen     with a 3-0 win over Liechtenstein.         the airport. Otherwise, change at St     stadium, the hotel one66 is a handy          Behind Spisertor, Da Sláinte Inn goes
duly won the Swiss title in 1904. The      Before 2016-17, the stadium, at the        Gallen main station.All local buses      three-star with weekend deals. Also          more for live music than sport.
                                                                                                                                                                                                   liberoguide.com 14
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 FC St Gallen
                                                 www.liberoguide.com/fc-st-gallen
 St Gallen store                                                                                                                                                          Shop

                                                                                                                                                                                                                     FC St Gallen
                                                                                                                                                                          The main FC St Gallen store (Mon-Sat
                                                                                                                                                                          9am-5pm, match days 2hrs before kick-
                                                                                                                                                                          off 30min after final whistle) is in the
                                                                                                                                                                          Shopping Arena by the Eingang West.

                                                                                                                                                                          Merchandise includes woolly Alpine
                                                                                                                                                                          hats with earflaps, baseball caps
                                                                                                                                                                          bearing the foundation date of 1879,
                                                                                                                                                                          Swiss watches, FCSG monopoly games,
                                                                                                                                                                          branded cigars, shot glasses, beer
                                                                                                                                                                          glasses and spirit flasks.

                                                                                                                                                                          Kiosks dot the stadium on match days.

                                                                                                                                                                          Bars
                                                                                                                                                                          Near Winkeln station on Herisauer
                                                                                                                                                                          Straße, typical Swiss bar/restaurant
                                                                                                                                                                          Landhaus Winkeln opens on match

FC St Gallen
                                                                                                                                                                          days, serving Bratwurst and chips, and
                                                                                                                                                                          local St Galler Schützengarten beer.
                                                                                                                                                          kybunapark
The oldest football club still operating                                                                                                                                  Further along on the other side, the
on mainland Europe, St Gallen (www.                                                                                                                                       standard bar/restaurant Brücken
fcsg.ch) have had meagre reward for        ones behind the west goal. Visiting       minutes away. Winkeln is also served      outlets such as the Post Office outside    Waage at No.54 has tables outside in
some 120 years of competitive play.        supporters are allocated Gästesektor      by the No.1 bus every 20min from the      the train station and the Tourist Office   warmer weather.
Rarely out of the top flight since the     4 of the arbonia-Tribüne opposite. The    main station, journey time 20min.         on Bankgasse.
early 1970s, St Gallen won a rare Swiss    main stand, the former Piatti-Tribüne                                                                                          Of the outlets at the Shopping Arena
title in 2000, moved into a new stadium    now the RWD Schlatter, houses the VIP     After arriving at Winkeln station, take   Match-day Tageskassen also operate         by the stadium, chain bar/restaurant
in 2008 then made the group stage of       and business seats.                       the underpass then the street ahead of    but expect to pay SF5 extra. Prices        Marktplatz offers several types of St
the Europa League in 2013.                                                           you, Herisauer Straße. The stadium is     start at SF20 to stand with the home       Galler Schützengarten beer on draught,
                                           Transport                                 about 7-8min ahead.                       fans, and for a seat in the corner of      schnitzels, spare ribs and burgers.
Opened as the AFG Arena, the               Public transport is free for match-                                                 the opposite end. You’ll pay SF35 to sit
currently named kybunpark holds            ticket holders.                           Tickets                                   either side of the standing fans in the    All payments at the stadium are with
nearly 20,000, average gates usually                                                 Unless Grasshoppers are in town,          forster-Tribüne. Seats in the sideline     a Stadionkarte from orange-dressed
around 12,000.                             The quickest way to the stadium is to     availability is rarely a problem.         EgoKiefer Stand run from SF30-SF50,        vendors. Match-Die Stadion Bar is the
                                           take the S1 (direction Wil) or S5 train                                             from corner to halfway line, and in the    main place for home fans, behind the
St Gallen fans fill the home forster-      (direction Weinfelden) from St Gallen     The main distribution agents are          main stand it’s SF55-SF80, apart from      forster-Tribüne, decorated with framed
Tribüne, sectors D2 and D3 standing        main station to Winkeln, two stops/five   Starticket, both online and at local      the family area (A6).                      black-and-white shots of FCSG action.
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SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Sion
                                                                 www.liberoguide.com/sion

                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Sion
Sion
                                             as local patriotism. The population of
                                             Sion is only just twice that of the Stade
                                             de Tourbillon, just over a narrow stretch
Capital of the canton of Valais, just down   of the Rhône, so many head in from
the A9 motorway from Sepp Blatter’s          around the canton, taking advantage of
home village of Visp, French-speaking        the A9 motorway alongside.
Sion is nestled halfway between the
Matterhorn and Lake Geneva.                  Bearings
                                             The nearest airport to Sion is Geneva
Here FC Sion (fcsion.ch/fr), in the 13       160km (100 miles) away. A train runs
stars and red livery of their canton,        from Genève-Aéroport to Sion (every
have survived thanks to controversial        30min, 2hr journey time, SF26 single).                                                                                                                          Au Poker
president Christian Constantin and a         Trains from Bern, Basel and Zürich,
knack for winning the Swiss Cup – even       including Zürich airport, require a
when in the second division.                 change in Visp.                             from SF160. Also on rue du Scex, the         Beer                                       over the bar counter and tables outside
                                                                                         Hôtel du Rhône Sion is quiet. The Hôtel-     Surrounded by vineyards, Sion also         in nice weather.
Sacking coaches every other week,            Sion’s adjacent bus and train stations      Restaurant Elite at avenue du Midi 6 has     drinks local Walliser/Valaisanne beer.
stepping in to do the job himself, signing   are a stroll from the town centre.          offers in the run-up to Christmas.                                                      The main football spot in town, though,
unsignable players and fielding the                                                                                                   Bars surround place du Midi, including     is Au Poker at avenue de la Gare 25.
ineligible, Constantin has made many         Public transport consists of buses,         Also near the stadium but on the other       Café de la Place, Le Brésilien, and,       With a bar interior decked out in Sion
enemies but Sion have been top flight        singles SF2.70 from the driver.             side of the A9 motorway, the ibis Sion       also with football action, old-school Au   line-ups over the seasons, some
since 2006 and regular competitors in                                                    Est has 71 two-star rooms.                   Boulevard. In summer, their terraces       autographed, Au Poker also provides a
Europe.                                      Bed                                                                                      merge in the Valais sunshine.              large screen for match coverage.
                                             Sion Tourisme has an online booking         An alternative, also close to the station,
With no immediate rivals – although          system. The centre has three three-         is La Pension du Vieux-Canal (chemin         Close by on rue de Scex, opened by         Party-minded Saint James at rue de la
it’s always good to beat Servette – cup      star hotels. Old-school Castel, closest     du Vieux-Canal, +41 27 322 7200, +41 79      sponsors of FC Sion, the Dugout is a       Dents-Blanche 9 is more club than bar,
specialists Sion attract regional as much    to the stadium, has standard doubles        947 0398), with a dozen simple rooms.        standard sports bar with TVs ranged        with DJ nights and late-opening hours.
                                                                                                                                                                                                        liberoguide.com 16
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 FC Sion
                                                           www.liberoguide.com/fc-sion

                                                                                                                                                                                                                           FC Sion
                                                                                                                                 Transport                                     For domestic fixtures, prices start at
                                                                                                                                 The stadium is a 20-min walk from             SF25 in the standing home end, secteur
                                                                                                                                 Sion’s main train station – head straight     B (Tribune Nord), rising to SF35 in
                                                                                                                                 out to avenue de Tourbillon opposite,         secteurs D1-D3 for home seats behind
                                                                                                                                 bear right and keep following it until the    the opposite goal, Sud. It’s SF55 for
                                                                                                                                 river. Cross it at the junction with rue du   excellent seats in secteurs C3-C5 in
                                                                                                                                 Scex and the stadium is ahead of you          Tribune Est.
                                                                                                                                 down rue du Stade.
                                                                                                          Stade de Tourbillon
                                                                                                                                                                               Bars
                                                                                                                                 By bus, take No.BS2 (every 20min) from        The nearest venue is the Café Le Parc
                                                                                                                                 the station stop by the Orient Express        (route de Vissigen 72), a simple wooden

FC Sion
                                             Another feature of Constantin’s          is barely noticeable as you approach       bar. Alight at either Promenade Rhône         bar with Feldschlössen beer, local Valais
                                             ownership, along with attacking a        from town. However, the 14,000-capacity    nearest the Café Le Parc or the next          wine and a small front terrace.
                                             TV reporter in 2017-18, has been the     stadium is gradually losing its quaint     one, Manège 1, near the equestrian
Run by controversial Christian               frequent sacking of managers.            feel: the wooden benches that used to      centre slightly closer to the stadium. It’s   At the equestrian centre next to the
Constantin, FC Sion (fc-sion-live.ch)                                                 line the East Stand were replaced by       10min by bus from the station, passing        stadium, Le Paladin serves grilled
had the envious record of winning all 13     Sion moved to the Stade de Tourbillon    plastic seats in 2011.                     central place du Midi on the way.             meats, pancakes and cheese fondue, as
Swiss Cup finals they appeared in – until    in 1968. Nestled between a winding                                                                                                well as beers – there’s a TV for football
defeat to FC Basel in 2017.                  stretch of the Rhône and the Alps, the   With home fans in the standing Tribune     Tickets                                       action too.
                                             Tourbillon was named after a medieval    Nord, away ones occupy blocks D5 and       Tickets are sold at branches of the Post
For all the criticism, this architect from   castle on the surrounding hilltops.      D6 in the standing Tribune Sud. VIPs are   Office, Manor stores and at train station     Buvettes ranged around the ground
nearby Martigny saved the club in 2003.                                               housed in the Tribune Ouest, the best      offices, as well as at the stadium from       offer local Fendant white wine and
Sion rebounded, and have been regulars       Its chalet-like home North Stand adds    seats in A2 and A8 facing the ones over    90min before kick-off by the Tribune Est.     red Gamay, as well as beers in 25cl
in the top flight since.                     to the charm – behind, the A9 motorway   the halfway line in Tribune Est, C3-C5.    Online sales are via ticketcorner.ch.         measures.
                                                                                                                                                                                                      liberoguide.com 17
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 Thun
                                                                www.liberoguide.com/thun

Thun

                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Thun
South of Berne, beneath the Bernese
Alps, Thun has made its footballing
presence felt over the last decade or so.
Flagship club FC Thun have embarked
upon four European campaigns since
their surprise debut in the Champions
League in 2005.

Back then, Arsenal, Ajax and Sparta
Prague were hosted in Berne, Thun’s
venerable but modest Stadion Lachen
deemed unsuitable. The last major           Thun, including the airport bus to Basel
international team to play there was        SBB train station, costs SF27.70. The
West Germany, for training before           half-hourly rail service to Thun takes
winning the World Cup of 1954.              1hr 20min. Thun station and main bus
                                            concourse are alongside each other
In 2011, the club opened the Arena          on the west bank of the Aare river. The
Thun, on the edge of town. It was later     stadium on the outskirts of town is too
named after cable-car firm Stockhorn.       far to walk but the city centre is close.
                                            All local STI bus lines call at the station.
With average gates for domestic fixtures    A single ticket, from machines or the
above 5,000, FC Thun are ticking over       driver, is SF3.                                     McArthurs
without making any credible challenge
for major silverware. The Alps and more     Oesch Tagsi (+41 33 222 2222) is located
prestigious Berne still provide ample       halfway between the stadium and the            nearby is the modern Holiday Thun.          The Krone on focal Rathausplatz was        table football. Bright El Camino offers a
reason for the floating fan to spend his    station.                                       Behind it on the main road, the Gasthof     a guildhouse, now a 29-room hotel          fair range of beers on tap.
Saturday afternoon elsewhere.                                                              Rössli Dürrenast is basically an old-       renovated in 2014. Across the square,
                                            Bed                                            school restaurant with six guest rooms      the Hotel-Restaurant Rathaus dates         For TV football, head to McArthurs, with
The Stadion Lachen still stands, its bar    The Thun Tourist Office (thunersee.            with or without private facilities. These   back even earlier, its comfortable rooms   matches on a 55-inch HD screen, live
displaying posters from that Champions      ch/en/stadt-thun.html) has a hotel             three hotels are 15-20min walk to the       also the result of stylish renovation.     bands and good grub. On Rathausplatz,
League campaign of 2005-06.                 database and booking function.                 stadium.                                                                               prominent Ratsstübli also shows sport
                                                                                                                                       Beer                                       and hosts live music.
Bearings                                    Across from the club’s old ground,             Of the options in the city centre, the      You’ll find bars and restaurants on
The nearest main airport to Thun is         Stadion Lachen, the Alpha Thun                 Freienhof on Freienhofgasse enjoys          either side of Obere Hauptgasse,           Former football bar Schleusenbar at
Basel 130km (81 miles) away. Online         Hotel provides pleasant, mid-range             waterside views but charges four-star       around Mühleplatz near the river. These    Bälliz 67 has changed its focus to food
with Swiss Rail, a ticket all the way to    accommodation, close to the lake. Also         Swiss prices.                               include the Cadillac Café with pool and    but cherishes its heritage as Tifo.
                                                                                                                                                                                                         liberoguide.com 18
SWITZERLAND 2018-19 FC Thun
                                                             www.liberoguide.com/fc-thun

FC Thun

                                                                                                                                                                                                                             FC Thun
Since promotion to the top flight in 2002,
FC Thun (www.fcthun.ch) have qualified
for Europe four times, played Arsenal
and Ajax in the Champions League and
gained a new stadium.

Currently, though, this little club                                                                                                                                                                      Stadion Lachen
overshadowed by nearby Berne is
treading water, surviving in the Swiss
Super League but without the clout to
challenge the big boys.

Home is the Arena Thun, aka Stockhorn
Arena. It bears all the hallmarks of a
new-build: artificial turf, out-of-town
location, retail park alongside, motorway
nearby, little else in the vicinity. Opened
in 2011, renamed in 2014, the stadium
holds 10,000, of which 2,000 are standing
places in the Heimsektor, the home                                                                                                                           Stockhorn Arena
                                                                                                                                                                                  Under the main stand on match days,
end of the Südtribüne. Away fans are                                                                                                                                              the FanZelt is a beer-dispensing
allocated sectors D9 and D10 in the                                                                                                                                               marquee, with sausages at SF6.50.
Nordtribüne.                                  62, by the junction with Weststraße.         SF40/SF20. Kategorie 2, better seats      The beautifully knitted winter scarves       Depending on the opposition, the beer
                                              Branches of TicketCorner also distribute.    around the corners, are SF44/SF22,        also feature the yellow sunburst logo on     might be alcohol-free Carlsberg.
Transport                                                                                  SF52/SF26 for YB Berne and Basel. The     red-and-white bars.
Arena Thun has its own bus stop on the        The club offers online booking through       priciest seats are SF64/SF32, SF72/                                                    The best FC Thun drinking spots are at
No.3 line. Buses leave every 10-15min         Eventim (eventimsports.de/ols/fct).          SF36 for YB Berne and Basel. Visiting     Bars                                         the old Stadion Lachen on Gwattstraße.
from Kante 2 outside Thun station, taking                                                  supporters pay SF25, SF20 reduced.        The only bars near the stadium are           The supporters’ bar is decorated with
7min to cover the six stops there.            The Tageskassen kiosks outside the                                                     the two cafés at street level at the         vintage pennants and autographed
                                              ground open on match days only.              Shop                                      Panorama Centre opposite: the                posters from the 2005 Champions
Tickets                                       To stand with the home fans costs            The FC Thun shop (Mon-Fri 8am-noon,       Cappuccino Club, with its table football     League campaign. It should be open
Availability is rarely a problem. Advance     SF26, SF13 for 6-15s. The cheapest           1.30pm-5pm, match days) is by Eingang     table outside, and Migros, attached to       and serving beer most evenings. Across
sales in person are through Ochsner           seats are Kategorie 3, in three corners      A. Replica tops are either first-choice   the supermarket of the same name.            the street, the Restaurant Lachen
Sport in the Panorama Center next to          of the stadium and behind the goal in        red-and-white or away lime green. A       Both have terraces, the Cappuccino Club      is another age-old Thun haunt with
the stadium and Sport XX in the Zentrum       the Nordtribüne, SF32/SF16 reduced.          retro version has a string collar and a   sells beer, Migros coffee, soft drinks and   pennants to prove it. Beer and main
Oberland retail centre at Talackerstraße      For the visits of YB Berne and Basel, it’s   bright yellow starburst badge.            snacks.                                      dishes, are served on the terrace.
                                                                                                                                                                                                        liberoguide.com 19
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