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Black History Month: Mentoring Matters FOOTWEARNEWS.COM / FEBRUARY 22, 2021 / @FOOTWEARNEWS AS STAYING AT HOME REIGNS, AFTER-WORK COCKTAIL TIME NOW INVOLVES SLIPPERS, SLIDES AND SCUFFS. HERE, SLEEPER'S PUFF RECYCLED SATIN SLIP-ON IS THE PERFECT APERITIF PAIRING FOR ANOTHER NIGHT IN.
F O O T W E A R N E W S // F E B R U A R Y 2 2 , 2 0 2 1 // F O O T W E A R N E W S . C O M CONTENTS INSIDER FEATURES 30 Earth & Beyond Why Earth Inc. is 32 Double Take These fall ’21 waterproof helping to reintroduce shoes have both style 9 Guiding 18 Cozy Up the Tamaris label to and substance. Lights How core slipper American consumers. brands are capitalizing Why mentorship is key 33 First Look on the comfort boom for Black founders 31 Burning A new footwear brand and facing off against looking to break in. Question is tapping into the newcomers Does making wellness walking 12 NYFW Wrap sustainable product movement. It was anything but FN STYLE always have to cost FN PICK usual, but the mostly- more? virtual week had some 22 A-Pair-itif key takeways. Dressing for happy hour at home requires a 34 State of 14 FN Insights very different wardrobe. Emergency Could the next big Texas continues to fashion trend be THE LIST grapple with the impact completely digital? of brutal winter weather. 29 Shoe of the Week The Original Muck Boot Company is geared up for a new adventure. 18 ON THE COVER Photographed by JOSHUA SCOTT “we possess an authentic heritage in slippers. it was expected that in a work-from-home capacity PHOTO: COURTESY OF UGG we would see more business.” — UGG PRESIDENT ANDREA O’DONNELL ON THE SLIPPER BOOM 3
ootwearnews.com A S N E A K P E E K AT S O M E O F O U R B E ST U P C O M I N G C O N T E N T. STORIES GALLERIES VIDEOS THE BEST March is Women’s History Month OF MILAN INTERNATIONAL Week WOMEN’S DAY: of Feb. 22 INSIDE RETAIL’S As Italy continues to grapple with high PROGRESS coronavirus case Week of March 8 numbers, the global This annual event aims fashion industry to celebrate women and will meet virtually track their personal and for a digital Milan professional advancement. Fashion Week. To mark the occasion, FN Follow FN for all investigates whether the the highlights from fashion industry — with its the new collections. large share of female workers — holds the key to gender parity in the workplace. Plus, Prada spring ’21 how it can help women get ready-to-wear ahead amid the global crisis, which has disproportionately hurt minorities. HOW BOSTON- BASED BRANDS CAN OVERCOME THE CITY’S RACIST HISTORY & RECRUIT MORE PEOPLE OF COLOR Week of March 15 Amid a racial reckoning across PHOTOS: PRADA: GIOVANNI GIANNONI FOR WWD; ALL OTHERS: ADOBE the country, scores of shoe companies are stepping up and implementing programs to diversify their workforce at all levels. But in Boston — a mecca for footwear firms, from Rockport to Reebok, Converse and New Balance — attracting a diverse workforce is more challenging due to the city’s history with racism. FN explores how companies are tackling these issues and whether remote work, which is gaining steam amid COVID-19, can help. Black History 124,004 1926 48.2 Million BHM was first observed during a week in February 1926 that Month: Fast Facts The number of Black-owned businesses in the encompassed the birthdays of The Black population, either alone or SOURCE: THE U.S. CENSUS BUREAU U.S. as of 2017, a number that has undoubtedly both Abraham Lincoln and in combination with one or more been impacted by the global health crisis. Frederick Douglass. races, in the United States in 2019.
POWERED BY LABS Influencer Bethany Everett shows the Torrent is a natural fit on city streets. Wolverine: It’s What Women Want With over a century of experience in crafting the best in men’s work boots, Wolverine has now turned its eye to the women’s outdoor market – and discovered it’s a perfect fit. W market. While trends may come and go, brand stick, we would have to enter and win THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S function remains a key consideration in any CUSTOMERS in the women’s market.” footwear purchase; with Wolverine, shop- This market differs from the men’s in pers can be confident that every pair will several ways, including requiring a different perform as needed. This guarantee is born physical construction. But one of the most from years of product development, design I think this is important distinctions is the emphasis that refinement and consumer research – and the women’s market tends to place on bal- this is exactly the same approach that the way better. Love ancing function with aesthetics. Shoes can’t olverine has brand is applying to its latest launch: wom- the colors and just perform as needed; they have to also been designing work boots since 1883, mak- en’s outdoor boots. fulfill a style requirement, in order to be the ing it synonymous with trusted craftsman- “We‘ve found that, considering our fabrics used on pick of choice. ship. The namesake brand in the Wolverine roots in work boots, our brand awareness these boots. This Worldwide portfolio has honed its reputa- among outdoor consumers is high,” said An Outdoor Adventure tion as the go-to source for comfortable work Andy Shripka, VP of Wolverine Market- is what I expected The soon-to-be launching Torrent women’s wear, with customers gravitating towards the ing. “This creates a valuable opportunity to see more of.” duck boot is new territory for Wolverine, promise of quality and performance. for us to enter the space. Women account but the brand is well-suited to the task. The —Shenika M., Oklahoma City, OK That name recognition allows Wolver- for a majority of the seasonal boot market company’s footwear experience meant that ine to command a powerful position in the and we knew that if we wanted to make our Wolverine had a solid framework to build 6
on. But the team also knew that, while they boots,” said Shripka. “To be successful THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S could hit the ground running in terms of CUSTOMERS CUSTOMERS we’re going to have to be relevant; to be outdoor protection and performance, win- relevant we need a following that believes ning in this category would rely on design- in and endorses our product. We are work- ing something that resonated aesthetically ing with those who have raised their hand with the end consumer. There are I expected the because they understand us and have a pas- “Dedicating an outdoor boot to women is a tall challenge for a historically men’s certainly more boots to be rugged sion for the brand.” Available in striking ivory, olive, grey, brand,” said Shripka. “It’s a competitive varieties than I but was pleasantly cognac and black, the Torrent wraps space with several established brands, so we wanted to make sure we got it right. To do expected! And on surprised at Wolverine’s 138 years of innovation in a fashionable package that has immedi- that, we needed a deep level of feedback balance I would say the amount of ately resonated with shoppers. And once from our core target: women. Building a women’s boot that is both functional and these look slightly variation and the brand has made that immediate aes- thetic connection, it can support that prod- stylish… That took some time and patience less industrial and variety in the boot uct appeal with the technical performance to ensure we got it right.” Consumer satisfaction has always been more fashionable options. I love the and function that women still want from their footwear. a priority for Wolverine, which is why the than I would have different colors team assembled a group of 36 women for the initial round of feedback, before speak- guessed as well.” available.” New Horizons Women’s outdoor is a new frontier for Wol- ing with another 350 women for a second —Maureen B., Saint Paul, MN —Kayleen W., Brookline, MA verine, but not one that the team takes lightly. stage of insights. The risk of expanding into Rather, it feels like the natural progression a new category is always high, even when a after decades spent developing and refin- brand is as established as Wolverine. But to Torrent’s appeal, as well as a broader theme as well as its fashionable edge, Wolver- ing their existing core collections. The brand launch a successful women’s collection, Wol- of the entire outdoor collection. The Wolver- ine chose to take a new approach with its already knew it could craft shoes that could verine needs a product line that succeeds in ine team understood immediately that these product discovery. Selecting a few special be walked in all day long, in extreme condi- an entirely new area for the brand: fash- boots would not just be used for specific out- partners, the brand shared limited release tions. But now it’s learning that it can also ion-forward style. door activities, but would need to function as product during the peak winter season so look fashionable at the same time. By speaking directly with women from well in an urban setting – albeit one expe- that these women could style and wear the “We believe the brand is a great fit in the the earliest product development stages, riencing inclement weather – as they did Torrent in its natural environment. Through outdoor space,” said Tom Kennedy, Global Wolverine was able to ensure that they on a mountainside. Women who commute this influencer campaign, potential customers Brand President at Wolverine. “There are remained aligned with what their customer through the elements and then need to hit the can see the boots in action – and see them- certainly some great competitors already in truly wanted. The Torrent features a rug- ground running need shoes that can keep up. selves in the styles. place, but we know we have the brand and ged lug outsole for superior grip, a vulca- The Torrent does just that. “We’re not interested in just paying a the know-how to succeed and will be giving nized rubber shell for elemental protection, To demonstrate this practical sensibility, group of people to take pictures with our it our best effort in the future.” and a fleece inner lining for unparalleled coziness. A slight heel provides style value, The Torrent combines while waterproof leather ensures feet stay a rubber shell with dry while looking good. waterproof leather for total elemental protection. Based on the initial reactions of their focus groups, it seems like the brand is onto a winner. “Much, much better than I had expected!” said Melody G., a 43-year-old consumer in Selah, Washington. “I expected to see more dark leather big boots for men but I actually saw some really cute, trendy and feminine type boots that I could see myself wearing on many occasions.” Surprise Style Considering Wolverine’s existing collec- tions, many of the women expected to see more work-focused and monochro- matic offerings, but the feedback consis- tently highlighted the range of colorways and sleeker silhouettes available in the new outdoor collection. Hannah M. praised the balance of fashion with waterproof and tread features, while Stephanie C. could see use cases in both everyday wear and outdoor leisure. This versatility is a crucial piece of the For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Sandi Mines at smines@footwearnews.com 7
INSIDER NYFW WRAP It was anything but normal, but this season still had some key takeaways. 12 FN INSIGHTS How the fashion industry is competing the gaming world. 14 THE BIG STORY9 F A S H I O N W E E K 12 F N I N S I G H T S 14 F O O T W E A R N E W S // F E B R U A R Y “While financial capital is still one of the big challenges, it “I’m from the projects sometimes and made a way for Guiding overshadows myself. Now I’m trying 22, 2021 the fact that there’s to kick the door open to this huge gap in kids still in the projects to access to influential understand how they can relationships.” Lights make a way for themselves.” // F O O T W E A R N E W S . C O M — Shelly Bell — James Whitner Major retailers have pledged to stock more Black-owned brands. Consumers have vowed to buy them. But for these founders to achieve long-term success, mentoring is critical. BY KATIE ABEL PHOTOS: COURTESY OF EXECUTIVES “For me, “I’m not here to education is make [designers] America’s key to famous. I want them getting through our to understand racial problems.” the business.” — Treis Hill — Bethann Hardison 9
THE BIG STORY Salone Monet trying to break through. ers and understand what the needs are for Black got her start at a shoe store in She has seen every side of the businesses to be successful long term.” Washington, D.C. fashion industry and is well aware of the obstacles. Hardison got her start STEPPING UP working in the Garment District, was The call for action has never been clearer or a pioneering Black fashion model in louder — and this month, several major companies the 1970s and later owned her own unveiled new mentoring-centric programs to help modeling agency. Black founders build brands with longevity. “I constantly tell people, ‘Not Fast-growing digital retailer Revolve said everyone is going to make it.’ The it would dedicate a new section of its site to fashion island is only a certain size, showcasing Black-owned and designed brands — and there are so many designers. But and all of those talents would have access to the the island isn’t getting any bigger.” company’s just-launched mentorship program Through her platform, Hardison that focuses on the fundamentals of growing challenges the creatives she works and scaling a business. with to ask themselves the right “We’ve been evaluating how we can use questions as they formulate their our strengths and resources, and help make strategy: Do they have the infrastruc- a substantial and long-lasting impact to fight ture to build a direct-to-consumer inequality,” Michael Mente, Revolve’s co-CEO and platform? Is retail the right path? co-founder, told FN. “Black-owned and operated FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 22 , 2021 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM How can they effectively wholesale? brands are far too often overlooked in the fashion “I’m not here to make them famous. industry when it comes to receiving the resources I want them to understand the busi- and platform needed to build out vital parts of ness,” Hardison said. “There are so their business. We want to help change this. We many young talents out there who don’t are uniquely positioned because we’re able to have anyone to advise them.” provide our emerging brands with invaluable During Black History Month 2021, information across different aspects of their mentoring and education programs business that are imperative to their growth.” have entered the spotlight as compa- Other companies are teaming up with estab- nies take their initial commitments lished organizations that support Black founders. When rising around equality to the next level. These efforts are critical as the pandemic continues to impact Nike pledged $500,000 to Black Girl Ventures, its newest partner focused on economic empower- designer Black businesses disproportionally, due in part to ment. The athletic giant’s investment will support Salone lack of credit and access to the Paycheck Protec- tion Program and other government funding. (A Black Girl Ventures’ mission to provide Black and Monet was new round of PPP, worth about $284.45 billion and Brown women founders with access to “commu- nity, capital and capacity-building.” developing approved last December, is specifically targeted “While the financial capital is one of the her footwear collection toward minority-owned businesses, many of which did not qualify for the first batch of loans.) biggest challenges, it sometimes overshadows the fact that there’s still this huge gap in access — aimed at serving In the last nine months, there has been some to influential relationships. The money women of color who notable progress among corporations, as America’s racial reckoning continues. In the wake of George actually comes from relationships,” said Shelly Bell, founder and CEO of Black Girl Ventures. couldn’t find nude styles Floyd’s murder, companies, organizations and In an effort to fuel those kinds of valuable to match their skin tones individuals moved quickly to enact new equality connections, Joor’s new mentoring program — she turned to a trusted initiatives — both within their own ranks and to support the broader Black community. brings Black brands together with the wholesal- ing platform’s network of more than 300,000 source for advice again Meanwhile, consumers rallied around #Buy- retailers in at least 40 countries. and again: model, actress Black, and big retailers such as Nordstrom and Macy’s stepped up their commitments to stocking To make it happen, Joor joined forces with RAISEfashion, a collective of seasoned industry and activist Bethann and supporting Black-owned brands. Much of the leaders formed in 2020. The group offers expertise Hardison. immediate action was a direct result of Aurora James’ 15 Percent Pledge, which signed on Gap Inc. to emerging Black talent and, in partnership with Harlem’s Fashion Row, will pick designers who will “I was getting a lot of mentorship from Bethann. this month after joining forces with Macy’s, West receive complimentary access to the Joor system She pulled together a group of people in the Elm and Sephora in 2020. and have a platform to present their collections. industry that I could email or text whenever While getting Black brands in the door is a big In addition, the labels will receive training on best I had any questions,” recalled Monet, who step, James and other leaders believe the next part practices to grow their wholesale businesses. launched the business in 2018. For the designer of the conversation is equally as important. “Black brands are at a disadvantage when it — who counts Beyoncé as a fan — being part of “It’s already tough for a new business to start comes to breaking into the retail industry,” said Hardison’s Designers Hub platform also paved if you’re anyone — to get financing, to put a team Divya Mathur, a RAISEfashion advisory board the way for some unexpected funding during together, to make sure you connect to the con- member and chief merchant at Intermix. “With a pandemic that has presented endless chal- sumer the right way — all those things,” said James partnerships like the one with Joor, RAISEfash- PHOTO: COURTESY OF MONET lenges. Last fall, Monet was one of 10 recipients Whitner, founder and owner of The Whitaker ion is able to offer both the mentorship and who received a grant from CFDA/Vogue Fashion Group. “But when you’re a Black business, it’s digital platform to successfully connect Black Fund’s “A Common Thread” initiative, supported tough because you don’t have the same support designers with prospective retailers to improve by Tom Ford International. infrastructure. A big responsibility goes back to a overall representation.” For years, Hardison has been working behind lot of the publicly-traded companies and equity Sergio Hudson — whose eponymous founder the scenes to guide young Black talents who are funds and banks to lock in on their Black consum- had a breakout moment when he dressed both 10
former first lady Michelle Obama and new Vice design academy founded by D’wayne Edwards. sneaker industry. Now, he wants to take that idea President Kamala Harris for the inauguration — The collaboration will introduce Black and Brown to the next level. “We’re going to continue to push is one of the brands selected for the first round. students to VF’s Timberland, The North Face Free Game, but it’s about picking up our overall Every six months, RAISEfashion will nominate an and Vans brands. After participating in a Pensole community narrative,” he said. “It’s going to be additional group of up to 25 Black-owned labels masterclass that will help develop them into about partnering with other small Black entrepre- to join the program. capable designers, the young talents will earn the neurs to help them get over some of the hurdles While some companies are targeting designers opportunity to participate in a year-long VF ap- that have been tough for me.” at the beginning of their careers, others are focus- prenticeship program. Kerby Jean-Raymond, founder of Pyer Moss ing on college students who haven’t yet entered VF’s VPs are also committing three hours and global creative director at Reebok, under- the industry. Urban Outfitters, for example, has per quarter to mentoring BIPOC employees stands the power of building a community. At the launched UO Summer Class ’21, a program that within the organization, as well as individuals in virtual FNAAs in December, he recalled leaning on selects one student from each of five participating the community. close friend Aurora James in the fledgling days of HBCUs. The students will participate in a 10-week his business. “We saw a lot of people being bailed internship program, where they will get one-on- one mentoring from members of the Urban Outfit- “I CONSTANTLY TELL out and that wasn’t a reality for us. It became a brain trust between you and I, where we would be ters team. And once the internship is over, the PEOPLE, ‘NOT EVERYONE able to talk about business, which stores wouldn’t mentoring will continue, the company said. pay so that we could avoid them, all of those differ- “Education, for me, is America’s key to getting IS GOING TO MAKE IT.’” ent things. And I was learning a lot from you be- through our racial problems,” said Alife partner —BETHANN HARDISON cause, you had already gone through the yearbook Treis Hill, who collaborated with Urban Outfit- and had placed faces and names and personali- ters on an HBCU hoodies collection as part of PAYING IT FORWARD ties,” he told James. the initiative. “The more we can educate African While companies big and small are taking up the Pensole’s Edwards, the quintessential mentor, Americans in underdeveloped communities and mantle of change, some of the most effective men- said that when he left the industry as a designer, neighborhoods, and encourage them to go to tors are Black founders who have carved their own his goal was to leave the business better than he college and grow and do things in the footwear unique paths in business. found it. “That’s the part that’s driving me now,” he industry and corporate America, [the better].” “I’m from the projects and made a way for said. “When I do decide to leave completely, I want VF Corp. — which aspires to achieve 25% myself. Now, I’m trying to kick the door open so to understand, ‘Did I do the job I set out to do — representation for Black, Indigenous and people kids still in the projects understand how to make create a more diverse industry than I got into?’ of color (BIPOC) within its director and above a way for themselves,” The Whitaker Group’s Thirty years later, it’s gotten better, but there’s a roles by 2030 — announced a series of new plat- Whitner said. In 2020, Whitner grew the retail longer way to go.” forms and programs during Black History Month. group’s “Free Game” educational series to help Among the initiatives is a tie-up with Pensole, the advise people who want to get started in the With contributions from Peter Verry and Nikara Johns.
NYFW BUZZ Vegetable-tanned leather cially considering the prolif- hub that is Paris, over the past few years it has ankle boots, part of a tight eration of slippers, slipper-like lost some of its star names (such as when Paul footwear edit from Zero + flats, heavy lug-sole boots and Andrew pressed pause on his line in March Maria Cornejo fall ’21 the usual sneakers in cur- 2019 to take on a larger role at Salvatore Fer- rent times. Johnson’s offering ragamo). Other designers like Chloe Gosselin including a mix of statement have chosen to show elsewhere or opted out boots, done in contrast stitch- of fashion weeks altogether in recent seasons. ing with tassels and a high Gosselin said this week she will switch to a see- wooden heel, balletic soft-toed now, buy-now format for fall ’21. pumps with grosgrain ankle Though it may have been missing marquee wraps and a series of hiking names — and its biggest shoe-heavy brands, styles with Diemme. such as Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Coach and All the designers were keen Tom Ford (the last of which had to resched- on getting back to the idea of ule unexpectedly for Feb. 26) — New York’s going out, even if that meant designer footwear is actually hanging on. That’s baby steps, easing into it with thanks to niche high-contemporary designers a mix of comfort pieces and like Cornejo and Gabriela Hearst, who both FO OT W E A R N EWS // F E B RUA RY 22, 2021 // FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M statement items, such as the know that customers see value in well-made, aforementioned boots. day-to-night shoes and boots that are less about “I think everyone wants a flash and more about the aesthetic codes of bit of a lift, and I tend to go intelligent women. with my gut,” said Cornejo in a There are some notable new designers, such phone interview following the as Emily Amelia Inglis, who started her brand release of her fall ’21 collection, Studio Amelia with a collection of strappy san- which she debuted ahead of dals that quickly gained a cult following with the New York Fashion Week with a fashion set. When IMG invited her to debut her simple lookbook. “We all want first show at NYFW, the Australia-based British to be dreaming a little bit.” designer jumped at the chance to showcase not The designer’s ready-to- just footwear but the second season of a sustain- wear included plenty of her able ready-to-wear collection that she launched signature easy-to-wear pieces, in 2020. with a little something extra “There are six women behind Studio Amelia, in metallic jacquard materials including myself, and we are located between and velvets. So, too, was the Sydney, New York and London, so New York acts At New York footwear, a small but powerful edit that in- as a middle point for us all,” said Inglis, whose cluded statement knee-length and ankle boots brand is a year-and-a-half old. “Our biggest done in a metallic fabric style and black and market is the U.S. and the customer has been Fashion Week, caramel-colored, vegetable-tanned leather with a belt detailing that gave a subtle crinkle-like quality to texture. There was also a series of incredibly supportive from day one, so it makes even further sense to showcase here,” she added. Historically, some of the best NYFW shoe Footwear high-heeled sandals, done in simple black, tan and a black-and-red colorway. moments have come from collaborations, and this season is still following that tradition. Hangs On “Maybe it’s stupid, because we didn’t really Johnson’s aforementioned boot offering in- sell a lot of shoes in the past year. [But] I think cluded a collab on hiking styles from Diemme. things will lift up,” said Cornejo, who works Jason Wu tapped U.K. brand Dear Frances for a with a small factory in Italy to produce her multitude of boots for his fall ’21 collection, the The city has never been a shoe footwear collections, second season to focus mecca, but at this season’s NYFW, which focus on vegeta- on his new lower-priced footwear remains relevant with ble-tanned leather and strategy. Victor Glem- new designers, collabs and a lot local materials, adher- aud worked with Lagos of persistence. ing to her philosophy brand Shekudo on a on sustainable materi- series of pumped-up BY SHANNON ADDUCCI als. “The whole point of clogs, which the design- fashion is that we have ers are selling on The The state of fashion may seem a bit dreary to inspire and create, to RealReal. And Anna these days, but New York Fashion Week dream a little bit and Sui, New York’s resident launched its mostly-virtual showings with a take ourselves out of footwear collaborator, somewhat surprising — and much needed — the doldrums.” teamed back up with spring in its step. While New York has John Fleuvog for a few A number of key brands that showed never been the shoe groovy boots to match PHOTOS: COURTESY OF DESIGNERS during the week — including Ulla Johnson, mecca that Milan is, her ’60s-inspired col- Proenza Schouler, Zero + Maria Cornejo, 3.1 or the luxury brand lection. Phillip Lim, Jonathan Simkhai and Veronica At this New York Beard — offered a kind of wardrobe that sug- Jason Wu teamed Fashion Week, it’s tak- up with U.K. brand gested an easing back into public life come fall. Dear Frances for ing a village. But the The footwear, which was heavy on boots, a collection of fashion — and the shoes was also surprisingly focused on heels, espe- statement boots — are still there. 12
POWERED BY LABS Spyder Footwear consists of 3 product ranges, for all activity levels A New Partnership, Unlimited Opportunity Combining the shoe knowledge of Footwear Unlimited with the stylish mountain aesthetic of Spyder, this new footwear collection is unlocking a new level of outdoor excellence. W and product design team ensured that we “We are excited on being able to expand were staying true to the Spyder’s outdoor and offer Spyder’s lifestyle assortment all American brand heritage: ‘Authentically year-round,” said Wesley Chu, SVP of Spyder,’” said Angel Ilagan, GM and EVP sports, street and active at ABG. “The new of Spyder Footwear and CMO at Footwear collection fuses elements of performance, The ability of this line Unlimited. “And it also made sure that we function and fashion with key models, to merge outdoor hen it comes to were developing product that the Spyder including outdoor, hike, trail, Après Ski, performance and tech, designing, manufacturing and distributing outdoor lifestyle consumer was looking for and lifestyle – all in fresh, trend-setting col- footwear, Footwear Unlimited is the nat- – and demanded.” orways with technical details for ultimate with product that ural choice, counting 48 years of indus- The collaboration of these two compa- performance and comfort.” looks amazing on the try experience. Known for its Baretraps nies has enabled the resulting footwear line The timing of the launch will enable Spy- foot, is really where line, Footwear Unlimited has a history to draw on both sets of strengths. For Spy- der and Footwear Unlimited to capitalize on Spyder shines. Our of producing quality fashion shoes and it der, this means utilizing color and moder- the booming sneaker and outdoor trends. was this shoe knowledge that made them nity in a trend-forward way that particularly The past year has seen more consumers quality, unique designs the perfect partner for a new venture at resonates with younger shoppers; the millen- invest in their health, opt for casual styles will resonate in the Spyder, a brand in the Authentic Brands nial demographic accounts for nearly half over formalwear, and explore the outdoors outdoor channel where Group portfolio. of the brand’s retail sales. When customers – all of which has inspired a boom for the consumers continue As a leading sportswear and outdoor purchase from the Spyder brand, they know athletic market. But these newer novice con- brand, the Spyder name carries an expec- they are getting the latest in performance sumers are also looking for fun designs that to be on the lookout tation for excellence. But despite the com- and design. they can wear throughout the day, as well as for what’s coming pany’s leading product across the ski and For Footwear Unlimited, it is the compa- for any outdoor excursions. next, as the pace of outdoor categories, footwear has remained ny’s experience in developing footwear that This makes Spyder’s footwear line a per- changing consumer unknown territory – until now. Through a ensures that the inaugural Spyder shoe line fect fit. The collection, which includes ded- new partnership with Footwear Unlimited, is rooted in function and quality. Its back- icated men’s and women’s lines, focuses as tastes continues to this year will see the release of Spyder’s ground in lifestyle fashion has also opened much on style as it does on function. And accelerate.” first footwear collection, which harnesses the door to greater variety in the collection: the price point, ranging from $100-$200, —ANDY DUEMLING the bold aesthetics and quality craftsman- Spyder’s first line includes a Mountain Sport means that the product is more accessible VP OF SPYDER ship of each party. range, an Everyday Active range and a ded- than some of the more performance-driven FOOTWEAR SALES “Working closely with the Spyder brand icated Lifestyle range. styles on the market. 13
V I RT UA L FA S H I O N BY M A D E L E I N E ST R E E TS INSIGHT With gaming growing in popularity, fashion may have found its next big collab opportunity The Untouchable World Digitization reimagined how products are made and sold. Now, it’s helping the fashion industry compete in the gaming world. Fashion may be tied to aesthetics, but it is By the music or photography, the transition to digital practices is already a fundamental and growing part of every industry. We already spend so also a multisensory Numbers much of our lives online and the near-global lockdown forced by the experience. For creators pandemic enabled the fashion industry and consumers to wake up to and consumers alike, the way a product feels $30 The price for con- the need to digitize.” The main focus of these digital efforts has been to support the selling can be as meaningful sumers to buy a still of physical product. For the past few years, footwear and clothing as how the item looks image of themselves designers have been increasingly digitizing their back-end processes, when worn — and for wearing the Buffalo replacing hand-drawn models with software prototypes. And others London sneaker leather goods and accessories, even smell are getting creative with their approach to e-commerce, developing comes into play. Which is why the fashion interactive experiences through augmented and virtual reality, or using industry’s shift toward the virtual world might seem counterintuitive. Or perhaps not. 160+ 3D product assets to make shopping online more reliable. But a small — yet growing — group of businesses are focusing on the “Fashion is the last creative industry The number of luxury virtual experience as the end goal in itself. Building off the huge growth brands currently fea- to embrace digitization, and the change in the gaming and online entertainment worlds, they are making it tured on Drest is long overdue,” said Michaela Larosse, possible for brands to reach new customers and sell them product, even head of communications at digital fashion SOURCES: BRANDS if it’s worn by just their avatar. house The Fabricant. “If you look at film, At Drest, a fashion styling app founded by former fashion editor and 14
Then there are the brand partnerships, which allow companies to create a narrative around individual styles they want to highlight. Drest will launch styling challenges around a particular product or campaign theme, inviting users to spend time engaging with this one item and styling it for real-life use. FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 22, 2021 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM “It’s so targeted because you can’t enter the challenge unless you play with that very VIRTUAL product,” said Yeomans. “It is different from HIGHLIGHTS an ad campaign, where you might look at it but be distracted by the model or by the location. You actually have to go in and use These top luxury brands have made memorable this product.” online appearances. With Drest, the focus is on play over product acquisition. But for The Fabricant BURBERRY and digital retailer Dress-X, virtual products Buffalo Before Animal Crossing swept are a commodity to be bought and used London’s the world in 2020, Burberry was capitalizing on the potential of across the online ecosystem. And they don’t digital-only sneaker cute online games. Beginning need to have any roots in reality at all. with B Bounce in October 2019, Unconstrained by the requirements of Burberry has designed a number the physical world, designers can use digital of short video games, hosted on its e-commerce executive Lucy Yeomans, the virtual products products to explore fantastical interpretations e-commerce site, which each feature are the stars. Real fashion products are rendered in digital characters dressed in signature of a brand’s identity. This allows them to form for use in the app. Users can create outfits around a brand looks. disregard the cost and logistics of certain specific product or for a specific event, enabling them to materials — or even ditch realistic materials see how different pieces might work together — both in the LOUIS VUITTON altogether. For instance, Buffalo London Through a collaboration with leading digital and the real world. partnered with The Fabricant to produce a pair video game producer Riot Games, “What I’ve tried to do with Drest is take all the elements Louis Vuitton created several of sneakers made from flames. of the real world — whether it’s a hairstyle by Sam Knight themed items for the 2019 League “From a consumer perspective, the digital or a dress by Gucci — and replicate them in this beautiful of Legends World Championship fashion environment is this vast, untapped, virtual space,” said Yeomans. “People can come and still Finals. Products included a bespoke creative terrain where all things are possible, travel case for the league’s trophy, be with the product, but it can be done at scale, it can be without limits or boundaries. It’s an open as well as a number of digital skins done very sustainably, and they can really engage with the (virtual outfits) designed by Nicolas goal for the imagination,” said Larosse. storytelling in a far more immersive environment.” Ghesquière to be worn within “When you’re digitally dressed, you can wear For Yeomans, the duality of the physical and virtual the game. materials that are impossible in real life, like product is critical. Fashion, especially luxury fashion, waterfalls or clouds.” has always possessed an aspirational element; digital BALENCIAGA Digital products might seem to the To announce his fall ’21 collection, products enable a democratization of discovery, even Balenciaga’s creative director, uninitiated like a fun gimmick, but they if only in a virtual realm. For the brands, it provides a Demna Gvasalia, released a video represent a growing business. Dress-X sells new way to share their designs with a greater audience, game called “Afterworld: The Age of digital-only products, which they will render without diluting the exclusivity of the products Tomorrow.” Available to any visitor to onto a chosen image once purchased. For social the brand website, players began in a themselves. media users, this makes it possible to style and dystopian Balenciaga store and then It’s this expanded exposure that turns Drest from explored ascending levels of utopia, post a greater volume of outfits for a fraction of pure entertainment into a potential brand revenue surrounded by 3D avatars wearing the cost of a physical outfit and without any of source. Younger consumers, or anyone not currently in looks from the new collection. the associated waste. Sustainability is a growing concern for brands and consumers alike, and digital products offer an appealing compromise. And as technology develops, connecting different virtual platforms into a unified Metaverse, the merchandise will be able to travel across video games and other digital worlds. Blockchain technology makes it possible to tokenize these assets, for resale or donation as needed, much like physical product. “From our perspective, as 3D specialists working at the intersection of fashion and PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS technology, we envision a world where digital garments replace physical inventory when the position to purchase luxury product, can still explore Brands can partner possible,” said Larosse. “The non-physical collections and build a relationship with these labels, with Drest to launch world has become our primary tool for human which might prompt purchases in the future. For those styling challenges connection and self-expression. With this around a single product who are able to buy now, Drest provides the ability to do backdrop, it’s inevitable that screenwear has so through its partnership with luxury e-tailer Farfetch. become the new streetwear.” 24 15
POWERED BY LABS The Creative Recreation Bolt is new for 2021 A Bolt of Sneaker Inspiration After nearly two decades as a mainstay of the LA streetwear culture, Creative Recreation is back with a new energy, a new silhouette and a dynamic design duo. T Recreation is looking to infuse its brand with the next generation of creative leaders. the original brand DNA. It starts from the a bolt of energy, embodied in the brand new Rich Cofinco: We created a new side logo concept design process; from there every- Zeus silhouette. that enables the brand to expand its identity thing goes through brand filters to ensure we FN spoke with Cofinco and Jones about and adapt a new look as we transition and stay true to ourselves and the brand vision. their creative partnership, the evolution of transform for the next wave of CR fans. Yet, the brand and what consumers can expect the identity of Creative Recreation remains FN: How has Creative Recreation devel- oday, athleisure is every- in spring 2021. unique, quality product for free spirits and oped as a brand since it first launched where but the evolution of sneakers, from creative fashion leaders. in 2002? athletic accessory to fashion staple, has been Brand Direction RC: In 2002, we didn’t have a core estab- building since the early 2000s. One brand FN: How has the brand’s identity FN: How does the team balance Creative lished. Nobody knew us. Today, Creative was at the heart of this transition: Creative evolved as we’ve entered a new year Recreation’s distinctive DNA, while still Recreation can make anything. We aren’t a Recreation. Quickly earning a reputation and a new decade? embracing innovation and growth? brand that sticks to any certain lifestyle – we amongst the creative trailblazers of Los Ange- Jason Jones: I think the biggest shift is posi- RC: Trends come and go so it’s important are a lifestyle. If we make tap dancing shoes, les, the Creative Recreation brand has built tioning the brand to be more accessible to a for us to stay true to our DNA – and we they’ll be the coolest tap shoes in the market. itself a legacy as the leader in streetwear. diverse range of consumers. In the early days will. Our innovation and process remains We follow inspiration wherever it leads and Now, the brand is embracing a new audi- the brand garnered attention through the LA the same: No rules, creative freedom, stay let the market follow. Our family of retailers ence of consumers with its latest collection club scene, back when pure athletic shoes true to the original idea of the brand. When and customers have an emotional attach- for spring 2021. Behind this reinvention is were not accepted as proper dress code for you wear Creative Recreation products, it’s ment to Creative Recreation; And we are the combined talents of Jason Jones and the better clubs. Creative Recreation became recognizable. driven to keep them satisfied. original Creative Recreation co-founder, integrated with the LA streetwear culture and JJ: Bringing Rich back to his CR roots as JJ: Undoubtedly, the introduction of the Rich Cofinco. With these two design minds we want to tap back into that core, embracing one of the original founders was the first iconic “Cesario” style in the early days behind the upcoming product line, Creative our heritage while introducing the brand to step in identifying those key elements of was a tipping point for the brand. As Rich 16
both understand what Creative Recreation is about. So, working with the original founder and design developer of CR – a Trends brand that has captured the imagination of so many loyal fans – is exciting, enjoyable come and and rewarding. go so it’s FN: As a design partnership, how does the development process play out? important RC: As long as the partnership is in sync, the possibilities are endless. Our team is enthusi- for us to astic about the creative process; it never feels like work for any of us. Generally, I create the stay true to idea and we all discuss and kick around ways to improve the product. Jason is a genius at our DNA – recognizing lines and shapes. He can tell if and we will.” something on paper will execute in an instant. JJ: To me, the ingredients must work together to bring an idea to market. Rich — RICH COFINCO, and I complement each other and lead all CO-FOUNDER OF CREATIVE RECREATION design and development for the brand. If Rich needs to design 10 new patterns, he referenced, the Cesario created a reliable can knock that out before lunch. He’s got core customer. This is still the style that limitless ideas in his head. So that means the majority of old school CR fans will we must recognize the best of the best and remember most fondly and it has become perfect it, as part of the design equation. one of those rare timeless classics that remains relevant today. We will always Spring Collection The brand is update and make unique versions of the FN: The upcoming collection introduces synonymous with Cesario but our next development, the a brand new silhouette, the Zeus. What LA streetwear Zeus, launches in spring 2021. was the inspiration behind this style and and culture how does it reflect the future direction FN: Tell us more about what long-time of the brand? The Bolt logo fans of the brand can expect in 2021? RC: We integrated the concept of ancient represents the RC: Unique styles with creative color combi- Zeus and his lightning bolt and adapted it to fresh energy of CR nations. There’s an energy to our new the shoe. Positive, powerful energy is the fuel products that will catch the eye. We learned of creation and so this idea of energy plays that the Cesario was an evergreen pattern into the “Bolt” logo. We’re looking to focus that could be reimagined forever; now again on fresh new looks that inspire a creative, with the Zeus, our big introduction for 2021, young, entrepreneurial lifestyle. That’s we have a design that can be reimagined with why the Bolt fits the idea of the brand: An endless iterations that are easily recognizable. entrepreneurial lifestyle is one that takes JJ: Customers should expect a nod to our boundless energy and optimism. heritage products, along with some explo- JJ: The new collection embraces our heri- ration of new design inspirations from tage but also pushes us forward to explore Rich. These really push the brand in some new directions. CR speaks to consumers who fresh directions. Fans will start to notice covet creativity in all aspects of their lives and the transformation through our consumer who possess an entrepreneurial spirit to create direct touchpoints in a narrative format their own individual paths to success. this spring, as we begin to launch new product introductions. FN: What are you most excited for with this new collection launch? Designer Collaboration RC: Looking forward to the reaction. FN: What is it like to work together on I’m anxious to watch it grow. Creative this brand? Recreation, as a brand, is back! The chem- RC: Jason is multitalented and even better, istry and the enthusiasm is real; the product he gets the Creative Recreation DNA and we have created represents a lot of collabo- mission. For us to collab and create together ration among talented people. The hardest makes our products have more meaning part is waiting for the launch. because of the passion and understanding JJ: Introducing a new generation to Creative put into building the brand. Recreation and continuing to drive the brand JJ: We all share a common passion for evolution. Like Rich said, waiting to see the creative people, places, and things. We shoes on our customers is the hardest part. For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Sandi Mines at smines@footwearnews.com 17
Slippers have helped drive Ugg sales gains COZYUP As the comfort market continues to boom, established slipper brands are finding ways to maintain momentum, while new players look to capitalize on the growing category. By Nikara Johns PHOTO:: COURTESY OF UGG
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Minnetonka is putting a bigger emphasis on slippers And comfort overall will remain important, even in non- slipper footwear, Goldstein added. In September, 70% of consumers surveyed told NPD that once they can return to work and normal activities, they plan to dress just as or more casually than they did prior to the pandemic. This consumer shift has caused established slipper brands to up their game, by expanding their selection of indoor-outdoor styles or hard-soled shoes. At the same time, many newcomers have materialized as they look to capitalize on the boom, bringing fresh excitement and competition to a normally TOPS niche market. TO TOES The Establishment Footwear is not the only place Traditional comfort brands found people are looking for comfort these themselves in strong standing days. Leisure is in demand from last year as consumers looked to head to toe, and traditional shoe prioritize ease. According to The brands are looking to connect with consumers through apparel lines. Lyst Index’s quarterly ranking, Last year, Allbirds expanded searches for casual items such as into clothing with wool jumpers and slippers skyrocketed a whopping cardigans, and it has since added 242% in Q4, compared with the new styles including a men’s hoodie and a long cardigan for women. Y same period in 2019. Leading the pack was Ugg. In fall ’20, Ugg also took the plunge into the ready-to-wear Searches for Ugg shoes surged category, featuring a mix of in the last quarter of 2020, loungewear, such as fleecy hoodies, ou knew times resonating with both men and women. For track pants and shorts. were changing example, the Ugg Scuff Deco slippers made an “Ugg is a brand known for how early last year appearance on the men’s hottest product list, it makes people ‘feel,’” said brand president Andrea O’Donnell in a when high heels while its Classic Ultra Mini boots topped the statement at the time. “Our new started collecting women’s list. apparel collection was inspired by dust in closets Ugg was also a driving factor for Deckers the emotional relationship we have and Instagram Outdoor Corp.’s record Q3 performance, with with our customers.” feeds filled up sales for the brand jumping 12.2% to $876.8 Now, L.L. Bean has expanded its with influencers in million, fueled by major growth for non-classic product line to reflect the pandemic wardrobe. This month, the company sweatpants with big balls of fluff on their feet. footwear, including slippers and the now- launched an athleisure collection Since the coronavirus pandemic began ubiquitous Fluff franchise. for all comfort-wear needs, from upending norms last year, “at-home” leisurewear According to Deckers CEO and president Dave joggers and jackets to hoodies (and has gained major momentum, and with that has Powers, the Fluff series has been a compelling sport shoes and scuffs, too). come a surge in slipper sales — a trend that is acquisition vehicle for driving repurchase not likely to slow down any time soon, according decisions and helped increase the brand’s 18- to to experts. 34-year-old demographic. While the comfort footwear category was Ugg president Andrea O’Donnell said the already accelerating prior to COVID-19, it saw increased consumer attention makes sense: and reach a diverse audience. “We’ve already an inevitable boost last year, with slipper sales, “We possess an authentic heritage in the slipper established that most of our [slipper] styles specifically, increasing 21% compared to 2019, category. So it was expected that in a work-from- have indoor/outdoor versatility and serve many according to The NPD Group Inc. Meanwhile, home capacity we would see more business.” purposes in our consumer’s life,” said O’Donnell. sales of fashion footwear, including heels, sandals, For 2021, Ugg continues to focus on “Our upcoming ‘Feel You’ campaign is all about and boots, declined 27% for the year. introducing new styles and updating its icons. style and individuality and features creatives who Beth Goldstein, fashion footwear and This spring, the brand added more Fluff Yeahs all wear key styles in different ways.” accessories analyst at NPD predicted further to its assortment, featuring new colorways, Meanwhile, Dearfoams has been expanding its gains for slippers in the early part of 2021, durable outsoles and strappy silhouettes for product offerings to compete in an increasingly followed by a gradual leveling out later in the warmer months. crowded market. For more than 70 years, the PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS year. However, she noted the slipper trend could Execs noted the key goal this year is creating heritage brand has been an be here to stay: “Continued innovation in the comfort looks that are accessible mainstay for consumers category and a lasting focus on the at-home multifunctional looking for slippers, but now wardrobe — even as we start shifting back to it’s entering the everyday office life and social events — could allow for Olivia Morris At Home footwear category with sales of the category to remain elevated.” mules are made in Spain The Original Dearfoams 20
Comfort collection, which launched in early “When COVID came on we started to get For British designer Olivia Morris — who February and offers the feeling of a house slipper calls from our retailers asking if we had slippers. had her own namesake line in the 2000s and in a slip-on sneaker silhouette. They were canceling our dress shoes,” explained worked for well-known brands such as Hobbs “Consumer behavior and needs have president Kevin Schiff. “We really went to work. and Lulu Guinness in recent years — launching fundamentally changed over the past year and We found that work-from-home was just a small an eponymous label in today’s market required are not going back,” said Angela Kenney, VP of part of the lifestyle change that was happening. a unique viewpoint — and it wasn’t going to be merchandising and design at Dearfoams. “As So we looked at it like, ‘What are we building for? heels. Instead she’s betting big on slippers after we look forward, we will take our lead from the How are we living our life differently?’” seeing a gap in the market for stylish options. consumer, who is clearly leading the brand to Enter the Short Commute Collection, which “It’s absolutely about a woman wanting all things comfy in the home and beyond. The launches this spring. The shoes are designed to get dressed at home, wanting to feel chic casualization and ‘buy now, wear now’ trends with slip-resistant, non-marking outsoles, water- and fashionable. The fact [that the shoes] are have allowed us to excel given how readily resistant uppers and are offered in clog and moc comfortable is the added bonus,” she said about accessible our brand and products are.” silhouettes. her glamorous, made-in-Spain house mules. Bob Mullaney, CEO of Dearfoams parent Even without seeing samples firsthand, “Olivia Morris At Home is designed as beautifully company RG Barry Brands, added that savvy Florsheim’s wholesale partners, from Zappos to as any high heel, with vibrant and feminine print moves ahead of the pandemic set the stage Macy’s, jumped on board. “We sold more of these and color and trims. It’s a nod to nostalgia, but for these new opportunities. “The investment than any other item that we have in our line,” for a modern-day client with modern-day needs,” in new products and entering the shearling added Schiff. said Morris. That idea appears to be resonating: segment with 100% genuine Australian shearling Leading slipper brands say they are unphased The line has been picked up by Shopbop, has enabled RG Barry to be ready when the by this increase in competition, but it’s clear they Hampden Boutique and Capitol & Canary, and consumer trends accelerated,” he said. aren’t staying complacent. Beyond the steps taken also sells on her e-commerce site. Similarly, Minnetonka also found itself well- by Ugg, Dearfoams and Minnetonka, Lamo last For luxury label Zyne, known for its traditional Moroccan-made, babouche styles, the pandemic C ONSU MER changed the fashion landscape, prompting the founders to enter the home category in 2021 with a variety of slippers. B EHAVIOR AND “With the lockdown in place, a majority of people were not going out, so their shoes NE EDS HAVE remained unused in their closet. We decided to launch our home line because we understood that investing in a pair of slippers was more valuable FU N DAMENTALLY than [investing] in a pair of slides or heels that you were not realistically able to use at the CHA NGED OVER moment,” said co-founder Zineb Britel. Now, with this entry into comfort, Zyne is able THE PAST YEAR. to target a different audience through the new styles, as well as by significantly reducing its price points. (The at-home collection starts at $150, compared with $290 to $440 for its core pieces.) Angela Kenney, Dearfoams Said co-founder Laura Pujol, “This was a turning point for our brand. We never imagined positioned during the height of COVID, thanks to fall introduced Lamolite, a line of everyday casual launching a home line collection, but we came an earlier decision to focus on slippers. President footwear for men and women. And this month, to the realization that looking great for others Jori Miller Sherer said the category has been part Birdies, the 6-year-old slipper startup, unveiled should be equally as important as looking good of Minnetonka’s assortment since its inception its first sneaker silhouette, The Swift. for yourself.” 75 years ago, but in 2019, the brand launched a new line called Home & Away that offered The Luxe POV The first Dearfoams comfortable indoor-outdoor styles. Then in 2020, As the high fashion and slipper debuted in 1948 Minnetonka introduced slipper slides, which have comfort markets intersect been a success. like never before, it’s no “We actually did that as a test and it kept surprise that luxury brands selling out. Now this year, it’s going to be a large are also looking to cash in category for us,” said Miller Sherer. “We think the on the slipper craze. On the cozy vibe is going to be here for quite a while. runways this season, high-end We’re doing releases every month for our 75th menswear labels, including anniversary, and we’re doing extra releases all the Fendi, Dries Van Noten, JW time on our website.” Anderson and Alyx, showcased Even though the consumer shift to slippers comfort-driven designs ranging has proved beneficial for industry power players, from cozy socks to shearling it has opened the door for others to take a piece scuffs. And almost every brand of the pie. — including Gucci, Louis One unexpected newcomer is men’s dress Vuitton and Coach — now shoe brand Florsheim, which previously had counts at least one slipper one slipper in its lineup. But after the pandemic silhouette in their collections. halted office life, the brand made an aggressive But for some shoemakers, pivot and developed a new line of at-home slippers are now the way to comfort shoes. make a splash with consumers. 21
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