Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News

Page created by Ana Nelson
 
CONTINUE READING
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters
                          FOOTWEARNEWS.COM / FEBRUARY 22, 2021 / @FOOTWEARNEWS

AS STAYING AT HOME
REIGNS, AFTER-WORK
COCKTAIL TIME NOW
INVOLVES SLIPPERS,
SLIDES AND SCUFFS.
HERE, SLEEPER'S PUFF
RECYCLED SATIN SLIP-ON
IS THE PERFECT APERITIF
PAIRING FOR ANOTHER
NIGHT IN.
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
The comfiest shoes that
you NEED in your life.

www.Dearfoams.com
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
F O O T W E A R N E W S // F E B R U A R Y 2 2 , 2 0 2 1 // F O O T W E A R N E W S . C O M

                         CONTENTS
                             INSIDER                    FEATURES                                                30 Earth & Beyond
                                                                                                                      Why Earth Inc. is
                                                                                                                                                       32 Double Take
                                                                                                                                                         These fall ’21 waterproof
                                                                                                                      helping to reintroduce             shoes have both style
                           9 Guiding                  18 Cozy Up                                                      the Tamaris label to               and substance.
                             Lights                     How core slipper                                              American consumers.
                                                        brands are capitalizing
                             Why mentorship is key                                                                                                     33 First Look
                                                        on the comfort boom
                             for Black founders                                                                 31 Burning                               A new footwear brand
                                                        and facing off against
                             looking to break in.                                                                     Question                           is tapping into the
                                                        newcomers
                                                                                                                      Does making                        wellness walking
                           12 NYFW Wrap                                                                               sustainable product                movement.
                             It was anything but
                                                        FN STYLE                                                      always have to cost

                                                                                                                                                         FN PICK
                             usual, but the mostly-                                                                   more?
                             virtual week had some
                                                      22 A-Pair-itif
                             key takeways.
                                                        Dressing for happy hour
                                                        at home requires a                                                                             34 State of
                           14 FN Insights               very different wardrobe.                                                                         Emergency
                             Could the next big                                                                                                          Texas continues to
                             fashion trend be
                                                        THE LIST
                                                                                                                                                         grapple with the impact
                             completely digital?                                                                                                         of brutal winter weather.

                                                      29 Shoe of
                                                        the Week
                                                        The Original Muck Boot
                                                        Company is geared up
                                                        for a new adventure.

                         18                                                                                                                                                     ON THE COVER
                                                                                                                                                                                 Photographed by
                                                                                                                                                                                  JOSHUA SCOTT

                         “we possess an authentic heritage
                               in slippers. it was expected that
                          in a work-from-home capacity
PHOTO: COURTESY OF UGG

                                  we would see more business.”
                                 — UGG PRESIDENT ANDREA O’DONNELL ON THE SLIPPER BOOM

                                                                                                                                                                                               3
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
ootwearnews.com
                           A S N E A K P E E K AT S O M E O F O U R B E ST U P C O M I N G C O N T E N T.
                                                                        STORIES         GALLERIES         VIDEOS

                                 THE BEST                                March is Women’s History Month

                                  OF MILAN                                                                                                   INTERNATIONAL
                                        Week
                                                                                                                                             WOMEN’S DAY:
                                  of Feb. 22                                                                                                 INSIDE RETAIL’S
                                  As Italy continues
                                  to grapple with high                                                                                       PROGRESS
                                  coronavirus case                                                                                              Week of March 8
                                  numbers, the global                                                                                         This annual event aims
                                   fashion industry                                                                                            to celebrate women and
                                   will meet virtually                                                                                          track their personal and
                                  for a digital Milan                                                                                            professional advancement.
                                  Fashion Week.                                                                                                  To mark the occasion, FN
                                  Follow FN for all                                                                                            investigates whether the
                                  the highlights from                                                                                         fashion industry — with its
                                  the new collections.                                                                                        large share of female workers
                                                                                                                                              — holds the key to gender
                                                                                                                                               parity in the workplace. Plus,
                                         Prada spring ’21                                                                                      how it can help women get
                                         ready-to-wear                                                                                         ahead amid the global crisis,
                                                                                                                                               which has disproportionately
                                                                                                                                             hurt minorities.

         HOW BOSTON-
         BASED BRANDS CAN
         OVERCOME THE CITY’S
         RACIST HISTORY &
         RECRUIT MORE PEOPLE
         OF COLOR
            Week of March 15
        Amid a racial reckoning across

                                                                                                                                                                                          PHOTOS: PRADA: GIOVANNI GIANNONI FOR WWD; ALL OTHERS: ADOBE
        the country, scores of shoe
        companies are stepping up and
        implementing programs to diversify
        their workforce at all levels. But
        in Boston — a mecca for footwear
        firms, from Rockport to Reebok,
        Converse and New Balance —
        attracting a diverse workforce is
        more challenging due to the city’s
        history with racism. FN explores
        how companies are tackling these
        issues and whether remote work,
        which is gaining steam amid
        COVID-19, can help.

Black History                        124,004
                                                                                       1926                                                       48.2 Million
                                                                                                             BHM was first observed during
                                                                                                             a week in February 1926 that
Month: Fast Facts                     The number of Black-owned businesses in the                            encompassed the birthdays of         The Black population, either alone or
SOURCE: THE U.S. CENSUS BUREAU
                                      U.S. as of 2017, a number that has undoubtedly                         both Abraham Lincoln and             in combination with one or more
                                      been impacted by the global health crisis.                             Frederick Douglass.                  races, in the United States in 2019.
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
POWERED BY

              LABS
    Influencer Bethany
    Everett shows the
    Torrent is a natural fit
    on city streets.

                          Wolverine: It’s What
                            Women Want
                 With over a century of experience in crafting the best in men’s work boots, Wolverine has
                   now turned its eye to the women’s outdoor market – and discovered it’s a perfect fit.

W
                                                market. While trends may come and go,                                           brand stick, we would have to enter and win
                                                                                                 THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S
                                                function remains a key consideration in any            CUSTOMERS                in the women’s market.”
                                                footwear purchase; with Wolverine, shop-                                            This market differs from the men’s in
                                                pers can be confident that every pair will                                      several ways, including requiring a different
                                                perform as needed. This guarantee is born                                       physical construction. But one of the most
                                                from years of product development, design          I think this is              important distinctions is the emphasis that
                                                refinement and consumer research – and                                          the women’s market tends to place on bal-
                                                this is exactly the same approach that the     way better. Love                 ancing function with aesthetics. Shoes can’t
                                olverine has    brand is applying to its latest launch: wom-   the colors and                   just perform as needed; they have to also
been designing work boots since 1883, mak-      en’s outdoor boots.                                                             fulfill a style requirement, in order to be the
ing it synonymous with trusted craftsman-           “We‘ve found that, considering our         fabrics used on                  pick of choice.
ship. The namesake brand in the Wolverine       roots in work boots, our brand awareness       these boots. This
Worldwide portfolio has honed its reputa-       among outdoor consumers is high,” said                                          An Outdoor Adventure
tion as the go-to source for comfortable work   Andy Shripka, VP of Wolverine Market-          is what I expected               The soon-to-be launching Torrent women’s
wear, with customers gravitating towards the    ing. “This creates a valuable opportunity      to see more of.”                 duck boot is new territory for Wolverine,
promise of quality and performance.             for us to enter the space. Women account                                        but the brand is well-suited to the task. The
                                                                                               —Shenika M., Oklahoma City, OK
    That name recognition allows Wolver-        for a majority of the seasonal boot market                                      company’s footwear experience meant that
ine to command a powerful position in the       and we knew that if we wanted to make our                                       Wolverine had a solid framework to build

6
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
on. But the team also knew that, while they                                                                                                      boots,” said Shripka. “To be successful
                                                      THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S                         THE VOICE OF WOLVERINE’S
could hit the ground running in terms of                    CUSTOMERS                                        CUSTOMERS                           we’re going to have to be relevant; to be
outdoor protection and performance, win-                                                                                                         relevant we need a following that believes
ning in this category would rely on design-                                                                                                      in and endorses our product. We are work-
ing something that resonated aesthetically                                                                                                       ing with those who have raised their hand
with the end consumer.                                  There are                                        I expected the                          because they understand us and have a pas-
    “Dedicating an outdoor boot to women
is a tall challenge for a historically men’s
                                                   certainly more                                   boots to be rugged                           sion for the brand.”
                                                                                                                                                     Available in striking ivory, olive, grey,
brand,” said Shripka. “It’s a competitive          varieties than I                                 but was pleasantly                           cognac and black, the Torrent wraps
space with several established brands, so we
wanted to make sure we got it right. To do
                                                   expected! And on                                 surprised at                                 Wolverine’s 138 years of innovation in
                                                                                                                                                 a fashionable package that has immedi-
that, we needed a deep level of feedback           balance I would say                              the amount of                                ately resonated with shoppers. And once
from our core target: women. Building a
women’s boot that is both functional and
                                                   these look slightly                              variation and                                the brand has made that immediate aes-
                                                                                                                                                 thetic connection, it can support that prod-
stylish… That took some time and patience          less industrial and                              variety in the boot                          uct appeal with the technical performance
to ensure we got it right.”
    Consumer satisfaction has always been
                                                   more fashionable                                 options. I love the                          and function that women still want from
                                                                                                                                                 their footwear.
a priority for Wolverine, which is why the         than I would have                                different colors
team assembled a group of 36 women for
the initial round of feedback, before speak-
                                                   guessed as well.”                                available.”                                  New Horizons
                                                                                                                                                 Women’s outdoor is a new frontier for Wol-
ing with another 350 women for a second            —Maureen B., Saint Paul, MN                      —Kayleen W., Brookline, MA                   verine, but not one that the team takes lightly.
stage of insights. The risk of expanding into                                                                                                    Rather, it feels like the natural progression
a new category is always high, even when a                                                                                                       after decades spent developing and refin-
brand is as established as Wolverine. But to    Torrent’s appeal, as well as a broader theme     as well as its fashionable edge, Wolver-        ing their existing core collections. The brand
launch a successful women’s collection, Wol-    of the entire outdoor collection. The Wolver-    ine chose to take a new approach with its       already knew it could craft shoes that could
verine needs a product line that succeeds in    ine team understood immediately that these       product discovery. Selecting a few special      be walked in all day long, in extreme condi-
an entirely new area for the brand: fash-       boots would not just be used for specific out-   partners, the brand shared limited release      tions. But now it’s learning that it can also
ion-forward style.                              door activities, but would need to function as   product during the peak winter season so        look fashionable at the same time.
    By speaking directly with women from        well in an urban setting – albeit one expe-      that these women could style and wear the           “We believe the brand is a great fit in the
the earliest product development stages,        riencing inclement weather – as they did         Torrent in its natural environment. Through     outdoor space,” said Tom Kennedy, Global
Wolverine was able to ensure that they          on a mountainside. Women who commute             this influencer campaign, potential customers   Brand President at Wolverine. “There are
remained aligned with what their customer       through the elements and then need to hit the    can see the boots in action – and see them-     certainly some great competitors already in
truly wanted. The Torrent features a rug-       ground running need shoes that can keep up.      selves in the styles.                           place, but we know we have the brand and
ged lug outsole for superior grip, a vulca-     The Torrent does just that.                          “We’re not interested in just paying a      the know-how to succeed and will be giving
nized rubber shell for elemental protection,        To demonstrate this practical sensibility,   group of people to take pictures with our       it our best effort in the future.”
and a fleece inner lining for unparalleled
coziness. A slight heel provides style value,    The Torrent combines
while waterproof leather ensures feet stay       a rubber shell with
dry while looking good.                          waterproof leather for
                                                 total elemental protection.
    Based on the initial reactions of their
focus groups, it seems like the brand is onto
a winner.
    “Much, much better than I had
expected!” said Melody G., a 43-year-old
consumer in Selah, Washington. “I expected
to see more dark leather big boots for men
but I actually saw some really cute, trendy
and feminine type boots that I could see
myself wearing on many occasions.”

Surprise Style
Considering Wolverine’s existing collec-
tions, many of the women expected to
see more work-focused and monochro-
matic offerings, but the feedback consis-
tently highlighted the range of colorways
and sleeker silhouettes available in the new
outdoor collection. Hannah M. praised the
balance of fashion with waterproof and
tread features, while Stephanie C. could
see use cases in both everyday wear and
outdoor leisure.
   This versatility is a crucial piece of the

For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Sandi Mines at smines@footwearnews.com                                                                                      7
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
www.muk-luks.com
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
INSIDER
                                                                                                     NYFW WRAP It was anything but
                                                                                                     normal, but this season still
                                                                                                     had some key takeaways. 12

                                                                                                                     FN INSIGHTS
                                                                                                             How the fashion
                                                                                                       industry is competing
                                                                                                        the gaming world. 14

                                               THE BIG STORY9             F A S H I O N W E E K 12          F N I N S I G H T S 14

                                                                                                                                                      F O O T W E A R N E W S // F E B R U A R Y
                                 “While financial
                                 capital is still
                                 one of the big
                                 challenges, it                                                                       “I’m from the projects
                                 sometimes                                                                               and made a way for

                                                                   Guiding
                                 overshadows                                                                          myself. Now I’m trying

                                                                                                                                                      22, 2021
                                 the fact that there’s                                                              to kick the door open to
                                 this huge gap in                                                                 kids still in the projects to
                                 access to influential                                                             understand how they can
                                 relationships.”

                                                                    Lights                                       make a way for themselves.”

                                                                                                                                                      // F O O T W E A R N E W S . C O M
                                 — Shelly Bell                                                                                — James Whitner

                                                                 Major retailers have pledged to
                                                                stock more Black-owned brands.
                                                                 Consumers have vowed to buy
                                                                  them. But for these founders
                                                                 to achieve long-term success,
                                                                      mentoring is critical.

                                                                         BY KATIE ABEL
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF EXECUTIVES

                                 “For me,                                                                                     “I’m not here to
                                 education is                                                                                make [designers]
                                 America’s key to                                                                         famous. I want them
                                 getting through our                                                                            to understand
                                 racial problems.”                                                                              the business.”
                                 — Treis Hill                                                                              — Bethann Hardison

                                                                                                                                                  9
Black History Month: Mentoring Matters - Footwear News
THE BIG STORY

                                                               Salone Monet                                                      trying to break through.                 ers and understand what the needs are for Black
                                                               got her start at
                                                               a shoe store in
                                                                                                                                    She has seen every side of the        businesses to be successful long term.”
                                                               Washington, D.C.                                                  fashion industry and is well aware of
                                                                                                                                 the obstacles. Hardison got her start    STEPPING UP
                                                                                                                                 working in the Garment District, was     The call for action has never been clearer or
                                                                                                                                 a pioneering Black fashion model in      louder — and this month, several major companies
                                                                                                                                 the 1970s and later owned her own        unveiled new mentoring-centric programs to help
                                                                                                                                 modeling agency.                         Black founders build brands with longevity.
                                                                                                                                    “I constantly tell people, ‘Not           Fast-growing digital retailer Revolve said
                                                                                                                                 everyone is going to make it.’ The       it would dedicate a new section of its site to
                                                                                                                                 fashion island is only a certain size,   showcasing Black-owned and designed brands —
                                                                                                                                 and there are so many designers. But     and all of those talents would have access to the
                                                                                                                                 the island isn’t getting any bigger.”    company’s just-launched mentorship program
                                                                                                                                    Through her platform, Hardison        that focuses on the fundamentals of growing
                                                                                                                                 challenges the creatives she works       and scaling a business.
                                                                                                                                 with to ask themselves the right             “We’ve been evaluating how we can use
                                                                                                                                 questions as they formulate their        our strengths and resources, and help make
                                                                                                                                 strategy: Do they have the infrastruc-   a substantial and long-lasting impact to fight
                                                                                                                                 ture to build a direct-to-consumer       inequality,” Michael Mente, Revolve’s co-CEO and
                                                                                                                                 platform? Is retail the right path?      co-founder, told FN. “Black-owned and operated
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 22 , 2021 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM

                                                                                                                                 How can they effectively wholesale?      brands are far too often overlooked in the fashion
                                                                                                                                    “I’m not here to make them famous.    industry when it comes to receiving the resources
                                                                                                                                 I want them to understand the busi-      and platform needed to build out vital parts of
                                                                                                                                 ness,” Hardison said. “There are so      their business. We want to help change this. We
                                                                                                                                 many young talents out there who don’t   are uniquely positioned because we’re able to
                                                                                                                                 have anyone to advise them.”             provide our emerging brands with invaluable
                                                                                                                                    During Black History Month 2021,      information across different aspects of their
                                                                                                                                 mentoring and education programs         business that are imperative to their growth.”
                                                                                                                                 have entered the spotlight as compa-         Other companies are teaming up with estab-
                                                                                                                                 nies take their initial commitments      lished organizations that support Black founders.
                                                                           When rising                             around equality to the next level. These efforts
                                                                                                                   are critical as the pandemic continues to impact
                                                                                                                                                                          Nike pledged $500,000 to Black Girl Ventures, its
                                                                                                                                                                          newest partner focused on economic empower-
                                                                           designer                                Black businesses disproportionally, due in part to     ment. The athletic giant’s investment will support
                                                                           Salone                                  lack of credit and access to the Paycheck Protec-
                                                                                                                   tion Program and other government funding. (A
                                                                                                                                                                          Black Girl Ventures’ mission to provide Black and

                                                                           Monet was                               new round of PPP, worth about $284.45 billion and
                                                                                                                                                                          Brown women founders with access to “commu-
                                                                                                                                                                          nity, capital and capacity-building.”
                                                                           developing                              approved last December, is specifically targeted            “While the financial capital is one of the

                                                               her footwear collection                             toward minority-owned businesses, many of which
                                                                                                                   did not qualify for the first batch of loans.)
                                                                                                                                                                          biggest challenges, it sometimes overshadows
                                                                                                                                                                          the fact that there’s still this huge gap in access
                                                               — aimed at serving                                      In the last nine months, there has been some       to influential relationships. The money
                                                               women of color who                                  notable progress among corporations, as America’s
                                                                                                                   racial reckoning continues. In the wake of George
                                                                                                                                                                          actually comes from relationships,” said Shelly
                                                                                                                                                                          Bell, founder and CEO of Black Girl Ventures.
                                                               couldn’t find nude styles                           Floyd’s murder, companies, organizations and               In an effort to fuel those kinds of valuable
                                                               to match their skin tones                           individuals moved quickly to enact new equality        connections, Joor’s new mentoring program

                                                               — she turned to a trusted                           initiatives — both within their own ranks and to
                                                                                                                   support the broader Black community.
                                                                                                                                                                          brings Black brands together with the wholesal-
                                                                                                                                                                          ing platform’s network of more than 300,000
                                                               source for advice again                                 Meanwhile, consumers rallied around #Buy-          retailers in at least 40 countries.
                                                               and again: model, actress                           Black, and big retailers such as Nordstrom and
                                                                                                                   Macy’s stepped up their commitments to stocking
                                                                                                                                                                              To make it happen, Joor joined forces with
                                                                                                                                                                          RAISEfashion, a collective of seasoned industry
                                                               and activist Bethann                                and supporting Black-owned brands. Much of the         leaders formed in 2020. The group offers expertise
                                                               Hardison.                                           immediate action was a direct result of Aurora
                                                                                                                   James’ 15 Percent Pledge, which signed on Gap Inc.
                                                                                                                                                                          to emerging Black talent and, in partnership with
                                                                                                                                                                          Harlem’s Fashion Row, will pick designers who will
                                                               “I was getting a lot of mentorship from Bethann.    this month after joining forces with Macy’s, West      receive complimentary access to the Joor system
                                                               She pulled together a group of people in the        Elm and Sephora in 2020.                               and have a platform to present their collections.
                                                               industry that I could email or text whenever            While getting Black brands in the door is a big    In addition, the labels will receive training on best
                                                               I had any questions,” recalled Monet, who           step, James and other leaders believe the next part    practices to grow their wholesale businesses.
                                                               launched the business in 2018. For the designer     of the conversation is equally as important.               “Black brands are at a disadvantage when it
                                                               — who counts Beyoncé as a fan — being part of           “It’s already tough for a new business to start    comes to breaking into the retail industry,” said
                                                               Hardison’s Designers Hub platform also paved        if you’re anyone — to get financing, to put a team     Divya Mathur, a RAISEfashion advisory board
                                                               the way for some unexpected funding during          together, to make sure you connect to the con-         member and chief merchant at Intermix. “With
                                                               a pandemic that has presented endless chal-         sumer the right way — all those things,” said James    partnerships like the one with Joor, RAISEfash-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  PHOTO: COURTESY OF MONET

                                                               lenges. Last fall, Monet was one of 10 recipients   Whitner, founder and owner of The Whitaker             ion is able to offer both the mentorship and
                                                               who received a grant from CFDA/Vogue Fashion        Group. “But when you’re a Black business, it’s         digital platform to successfully connect Black
                                                               Fund’s “A Common Thread” initiative, supported      tough because you don’t have the same support          designers with prospective retailers to improve
                                                               by Tom Ford International.                          infrastructure. A big responsibility goes back to a    overall representation.”
                                                                  For years, Hardison has been working behind      lot of the publicly-traded companies and equity            Sergio Hudson — whose eponymous founder
                                                               the scenes to guide young Black talents who are     funds and banks to lock in on their Black consum-      had a breakout moment when he dressed both

                                                          10
former first lady Michelle Obama and new Vice          design academy founded by D’wayne Edwards.           sneaker industry. Now, he wants to take that idea
President Kamala Harris for the inauguration —         The collaboration will introduce Black and Brown     to the next level. “We’re going to continue to push
is one of the brands selected for the first round.     students to VF’s Timberland, The North Face          Free Game, but it’s about picking up our overall
Every six months, RAISEfashion will nominate an        and Vans brands. After participating in a Pensole    community narrative,” he said. “It’s going to be
additional group of up to 25 Black-owned labels        masterclass that will help develop them into         about partnering with other small Black entrepre-
to join the program.                                   capable designers, the young talents will earn the   neurs to help them get over some of the hurdles
    While some companies are targeting designers       opportunity to participate in a year-long VF ap-     that have been tough for me.”
at the beginning of their careers, others are focus-   prenticeship program.                                    Kerby Jean-Raymond, founder of Pyer Moss
ing on college students who haven’t yet entered           VF’s VPs are also committing three hours          and global creative director at Reebok, under-
the industry. Urban Outfitters, for example, has       per quarter to mentoring BIPOC employees             stands the power of building a community. At the
launched UO Summer Class ’21, a program that           within the organization, as well as individuals in   virtual FNAAs in December, he recalled leaning on
selects one student from each of five participating    the community.                                       close friend Aurora James in the fledgling days of
HBCUs. The students will participate in a 10-week                                                           his business. “We saw a lot of people being bailed
internship program, where they will get one-on-
one mentoring from members of the Urban Outfit-
                                                       “I CONSTANTLY TELL                                   out and that wasn’t a reality for us. It became a
                                                                                                            brain trust between you and I, where we would be
ters team. And once the internship is over, the         PEOPLE, ‘NOT EVERYONE                               able to talk about business, which stores wouldn’t
mentoring will continue, the company said.                                                                  pay so that we could avoid them, all of those differ-
    “Education, for me, is America’s key to getting     IS GOING TO MAKE IT.’”                              ent things. And I was learning a lot from you be-
through our racial problems,” said Alife partner       —BETHANN HARDISON                                    cause, you had already gone through the yearbook
Treis Hill, who collaborated with Urban Outfit-                                                             and had placed faces and names and personali-
ters on an HBCU hoodies collection as part of          PAYING IT FORWARD                                    ties,” he told James.
the initiative. “The more we can educate African       While companies big and small are taking up the          Pensole’s Edwards, the quintessential mentor,
Americans in underdeveloped communities and            mantle of change, some of the most effective men-    said that when he left the industry as a designer,
neighborhoods, and encourage them to go to             tors are Black founders who have carved their own    his goal was to leave the business better than he
college and grow and do things in the footwear         unique paths in business.                            found it. “That’s the part that’s driving me now,” he
industry and corporate America, [the better].”            “I’m from the projects and made a way for         said. “When I do decide to leave completely, I want
    VF Corp. — which aspires to achieve 25%            myself. Now, I’m trying to kick the door open so     to understand, ‘Did I do the job I set out to do —
representation for Black, Indigenous and people        kids still in the projects understand how to make    create a more diverse industry than I got into?’
of color (BIPOC) within its director and above         a way for themselves,” The Whitaker Group’s          Thirty years later, it’s gotten better, but there’s a
roles by 2030 — announced a series of new plat-        Whitner said. In 2020, Whitner grew the retail       longer way to go.”
forms and programs during Black History Month.         group’s “Free Game” educational series to help
Among the initiatives is a tie-up with Pensole, the    advise people who want to get started in the         With contributions from Peter Verry and Nikara Johns.
NYFW BUZZ

                                                                             Vegetable-tanned leather                                            cially considering the prolif-        hub that is Paris, over the past few years it has
                                                                             ankle boots, part of a tight                                        eration of slippers, slipper-like     lost some of its star names (such as when Paul
                                                                             footwear edit from Zero +                                           flats, heavy lug-sole boots and       Andrew pressed pause on his line in March
                                                                             Maria Cornejo fall ’21                                              the usual sneakers in cur-            2019 to take on a larger role at Salvatore Fer-
                                                                                                                                                 rent times. Johnson’s offering        ragamo). Other designers like Chloe Gosselin
                                                                                                                                                 including a mix of statement          have chosen to show elsewhere or opted out
                                                                                                                                                 boots, done in contrast stitch-       of fashion weeks altogether in recent seasons.
                                                                                                                                                 ing with tassels and a high           Gosselin said this week she will switch to a see-
                                                                                                                                                 wooden heel, balletic soft-toed       now, buy-now format for fall ’21.
                                                                                                                                                 pumps with grosgrain ankle                Though it may have been missing marquee
                                                                                                                                                 wraps and a series of hiking          names — and its biggest shoe-heavy brands,
                                                                                                                                                 styles with Diemme.                   such as Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Coach and
                                                                                                                                                     All the designers were keen       Tom Ford (the last of which had to resched-
                                                                                                                                                 on getting back to the idea of        ule unexpectedly for Feb. 26) — New York’s
                                                                                                                                                 going out, even if that meant         designer footwear is actually hanging on. That’s
                                                                                                                                                 baby steps, easing into it with       thanks to niche high-contemporary designers
                                                                                                                                                 a mix of comfort pieces and           like Cornejo and Gabriela Hearst, who both
FO OT W E A R N EWS // F E B RUA RY 22, 2021 // FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

                                                                                                                                                 statement items, such as the          know that customers see value in well-made,
                                                                                                                                                 aforementioned boots.                 day-to-night shoes and boots that are less about
                                                                                                                                                     “I think everyone wants a         flash and more about the aesthetic codes of
                                                                                                                                                 bit of a lift, and I tend to go       intelligent women.
                                                                                                                                                 with my gut,” said Cornejo in a           There are some notable new designers, such
                                                                                                                                                 phone interview following the         as Emily Amelia Inglis, who started her brand
                                                                                                                                                 release of her fall ’21 collection,   Studio Amelia with a collection of strappy san-
                                                                                                                                                 which she debuted ahead of            dals that quickly gained a cult following with the
                                                                                                                                                 New York Fashion Week with a          fashion set. When IMG invited her to debut her
                                                                                                                                                 simple lookbook. “We all want         first show at NYFW, the Australia-based British
                                                                                                                                                 to be dreaming a little bit.”         designer jumped at the chance to showcase not
                                                                                                                                                     The designer’s ready-to-          just footwear but the second season of a sustain-
                                                                                                                                                 wear included plenty of her           able ready-to-wear collection that she launched
                                                                                                                                                 signature easy-to-wear pieces,        in 2020.
                                                                                                                                                 with a little something extra             “There are six women behind Studio Amelia,
                                                                                                                                                 in metallic jacquard materials        including myself, and we are located between
                                                                                                                                                 and velvets. So, too, was the         Sydney, New York and London, so New York acts

                                                                           At New York
                                                                                                                               footwear, a small but powerful edit that in-            as a middle point for us all,” said Inglis, whose
                                                                                                                               cluded statement knee-length and ankle boots            brand is a year-and-a-half old. “Our biggest
                                                                                                                               done in a metallic fabric style and black and           market is the U.S. and the customer has been

                                                                           Fashion Week,                                       caramel-colored, vegetable-tanned leather with
                                                                                                                               a belt detailing that gave a subtle crinkle-like
                                                                                                                               quality to texture. There was also a series of
                                                                                                                                                                                       incredibly supportive from day one, so it makes
                                                                                                                                                                                       even further sense to showcase here,” she added.
                                                                                                                                                                                           Historically, some of the best NYFW shoe

                                                                           Footwear                                            high-heeled sandals, done in simple black, tan
                                                                                                                               and a black-and-red colorway.
                                                                                                                                                                                       moments have come from collaborations, and
                                                                                                                                                                                       this season is still following that tradition.

                                                                           Hangs On
                                                                                                                                  “Maybe it’s stupid, because we didn’t really         Johnson’s aforementioned boot offering in-
                                                                                                                               sell a lot of shoes in the past year. [But] I think     cluded a collab on hiking styles from Diemme.
                                                                                                                               things will lift up,” said Cornejo, who works           Jason Wu tapped U.K. brand Dear Frances for a
                                                                                                                               with a small factory in Italy to produce her            multitude of boots for his fall ’21 collection, the
                                                                           The city has never been a shoe                      footwear collections,                                                              second season to focus
                                                                           mecca, but at this season’s NYFW,                   which focus on vegeta-                                                             on his new lower-priced
                                                                           footwear remains relevant with                      ble-tanned leather and                                                             strategy. Victor Glem-
                                                                           new designers, collabs and a lot                    local materials, adher-                                                            aud worked with Lagos
                                                                           of persistence.                                     ing to her philosophy                                                              brand Shekudo on a
                                                                                                                               on sustainable materi-                                                             series of pumped-up
                                                                           BY SHANNON ADDUCCI                                  als. “The whole point of                                                           clogs, which the design-
                                                                                                                               fashion is that we have                                                            ers are selling on The
                                                                           The state of fashion may seem a bit dreary          to inspire and create, to                                                          RealReal. And Anna
                                                                           these days, but New York Fashion Week               dream a little bit and                                                             Sui, New York’s resident
                                                                           launched its mostly-virtual showings with a         take ourselves out of                                                              footwear collaborator,
                                                                           somewhat surprising — and much needed —             the doldrums.”                                                                     teamed back up with
                                                                           spring in its step.                                    While New York has                                                              John Fleuvog for a few
                                                                              A number of key brands that showed               never been the shoe                                                                groovy boots to match
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             PHOTOS: COURTESY OF DESIGNERS

                                                                           during the week — including Ulla Johnson,           mecca that Milan is,                                                               her ’60s-inspired col-
                                                                           Proenza Schouler, Zero + Maria Cornejo, 3.1         or the luxury brand                                                                lection.
                                                                           Phillip Lim, Jonathan Simkhai and Veronica                                                                                                At this New York
                                                                           Beard — offered a kind of wardrobe that sug-               Jason Wu teamed                                                             Fashion Week, it’s tak-
                                                                                                                                      up with U.K. brand
                                                                           gested an easing back into public life come fall.           Dear Frances for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  ing a village. But the
                                                                              The footwear, which was heavy on boots,                     a collection of                                                         fashion — and the shoes
                                                                           was also surprisingly focused on heels, espe-               statement boots                                                            — are still there.

                                                                           12
POWERED BY

           LABS

Spyder Footwear consists of 3 product ranges, for all activity levels

         A New Partnership,
        Unlimited Opportunity
    Combining the shoe knowledge of Footwear Unlimited with the stylish mountain aesthetic of Spyder,
               this new footwear collection is unlocking a new level of outdoor excellence.

W
                                                     and product design team ensured that we             “We are excited on being able to expand
                                                     were staying true to the Spyder’s outdoor        and offer Spyder’s lifestyle assortment all
                                                     American brand heritage: ‘Authentically          year-round,” said Wesley Chu, SVP of
                                                     Spyder,’” said Angel Ilagan, GM and EVP          sports, street and active at ABG. “The new
                                                     of Spyder Footwear and CMO at Footwear           collection fuses elements of performance,          The ability of this line
                                                     Unlimited. “And it also made sure that we        function and fashion with key models,                  to merge outdoor
                            hen it comes to          were developing product that the Spyder          including outdoor, hike, trail, Après Ski,         performance and tech,
designing, manufacturing and distributing            outdoor lifestyle consumer was looking for       and lifestyle – all in fresh, trend-setting col-
footwear, Footwear Unlimited is the nat-             – and demanded.”                                 orways with technical details for ultimate
                                                                                                                                                              with product that
ural choice, counting 48 years of indus-                The collaboration of these two compa-         performance and comfort.”                           looks amazing on the
try experience. Known for its Baretraps              nies has enabled the resulting footwear line        The timing of the launch will enable Spy-          foot, is really where
line, Footwear Unlimited has a history               to draw on both sets of strengths. For Spy-      der and Footwear Unlimited to capitalize on           Spyder shines. Our
of producing quality fashion shoes and it            der, this means utilizing color and moder-       the booming sneaker and outdoor trends.
was this shoe knowledge that made them               nity in a trend-forward way that particularly    The past year has seen more consumers
                                                                                                                                                         quality, unique designs
the perfect partner for a new venture at             resonates with younger shoppers; the millen-     invest in their health, opt for casual styles         will resonate in the
Spyder, a brand in the Authentic Brands              nial demographic accounts for nearly half        over formalwear, and explore the outdoors          outdoor channel where
Group portfolio.                                     of the brand’s retail sales. When customers      – all of which has inspired a boom for the           consumers continue
   As a leading sportswear and outdoor               purchase from the Spyder brand, they know        athletic market. But these newer novice con-
brand, the Spyder name carries an expec-             they are getting the latest in performance       sumers are also looking for fun designs that
                                                                                                                                                           to be on the lookout
tation for excellence. But despite the com-          and design.                                      they can wear throughout the day, as well as           for what’s coming
pany’s leading product across the ski and               For Footwear Unlimited, it is the compa-      for any outdoor excursions.                           next, as the pace of
outdoor categories, footwear has remained            ny’s experience in developing footwear that         This makes Spyder’s footwear line a per-          changing consumer
unknown territory – until now. Through a             ensures that the inaugural Spyder shoe line      fect fit. The collection, which includes ded-
new partnership with Footwear Unlimited,             is rooted in function and quality. Its back-     icated men’s and women’s lines, focuses as
                                                                                                                                                            tastes continues to
this year will see the release of Spyder’s           ground in lifestyle fashion has also opened      much on style as it does on function. And                  accelerate.”
first footwear collection, which harnesses           the door to greater variety in the collection:   the price point, ranging from $100-$200,              —ANDY DUEMLING
the bold aesthetics and quality craftsman-           Spyder’s first line includes a Mountain Sport    means that the product is more accessible              VP OF SPYDER
ship of each party.                                  range, an Everyday Active range and a ded-       than some of the more performance-driven              FOOTWEAR SALES
   “Working closely with the Spyder brand            icated Lifestyle range.                          styles on the market.

                                                                                                                                                                                    13
V I RT UA L FA S H I O N                 BY M A D E L E I N E ST R E E TS

INSIGHT                                                                                                                                 With gaming growing in
                                                                                                                                        popularity, fashion may
                                                                                                                                         have found its next big
                                                                                                                                             collab opportunity

                               The Untouchable World
                              Digitization reimagined how products are made and sold. Now, it’s
                              helping the fashion industry compete in the gaming world.

                               Fashion may be tied
                               to aesthetics, but it is
                                                          By the                     music or photography, the transition to digital practices is already a
                                                                                     fundamental and growing part of every industry. We already spend so
                               also a multisensory        Numbers                    much of our lives online and the near-global lockdown forced by the
                               experience. For creators                              pandemic enabled the fashion industry and consumers to wake up to
                               and consumers alike,
                               the way a product feels
                                                          $30
                                                          The price for con-
                                                                                     the need to digitize.”
                                                                                         The main focus of these digital efforts has been to support the selling
                               can be as meaningful       sumers to buy a still      of physical product. For the past few years, footwear and clothing
                               as how the item looks      image of themselves        designers have been increasingly digitizing their back-end processes,
                               when worn — and for        wearing the Buffalo        replacing hand-drawn models with software prototypes. And others
                                                          London sneaker
       leather goods and accessories, even smell                                     are getting creative with their approach to e-commerce, developing
       comes into play. Which is why the fashion                                     interactive experiences through augmented and virtual reality, or using
       industry’s shift toward the virtual world might
       seem counterintuitive. Or perhaps not.
                                                          160+                       3D product assets to make shopping online more reliable.
                                                                                         But a small — yet growing — group of businesses are focusing on the
           “Fashion is the last creative industry         The number of luxury       virtual experience as the end goal in itself. Building off the huge growth
                                                          brands currently fea-
       to embrace digitization, and the change                                       in the gaming and online entertainment worlds, they are making it
                                                          tured on Drest
       is long overdue,” said Michaela Larosse,                                      possible for brands to reach new customers and sell them product, even
       head of communications at digital fashion          SOURCES: BRANDS
                                                                                     if it’s worn by just their avatar.
       house The Fabricant. “If you look at film,                                        At Drest, a fashion styling app founded by former fashion editor and

  14
Then there are the brand partnerships,
                                                                                                                                       which allow companies to create a narrative
                                                                                                                                       around individual styles they want to highlight.
                                                                                                                                       Drest will launch styling challenges around a
                                                                                                                                       particular product or campaign theme, inviting
                                                                                                                                       users to spend time engaging with this one
                                                                                                                                       item and styling it for real-life use.

                                                                                                                                                                                             FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 22, 2021 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
                                                                                                                                           “It’s so targeted because you can’t enter
                                                                                                                                       the challenge unless you play with that very
                                                                                              VIRTUAL                                  product,” said Yeomans. “It is different from
                                                                                              HIGHLIGHTS                               an ad campaign, where you might look at
                                                                                                                                       it but be distracted by the model or by the
                                                                                                                                       location. You actually have to go in and use
                                                                                              These top luxury brands
                                                                                              have made memorable                      this product.”
                                                                                              online appearances.                          With Drest, the focus is on play over
                                                                                                                                       product acquisition. But for The Fabricant
                                                                                              BURBERRY                                 and digital retailer Dress-X, virtual products
                               Buffalo                                                        Before Animal Crossing swept
                                                                                                                                       are a commodity to be bought and used
                               London’s                                                       the world in 2020, Burberry was
                                                                                              capitalizing on the potential of         across the online ecosystem. And they don’t
                               digital-only
                               sneaker                                                        cute online games. Beginning             need to have any roots in reality at all.
                                                                                              with B Bounce in October 2019,               Unconstrained by the requirements of
                                                                                              Burberry has designed a number           the physical world, designers can use digital
                                                                                              of short video games, hosted on its
                             e-commerce executive Lucy Yeomans, the virtual products                                                   products to explore fantastical interpretations
                                                                                              e-commerce site, which each feature
                             are the stars. Real fashion products are rendered in digital     characters dressed in signature          of a brand’s identity. This allows them to
                             form for use in the app. Users can create outfits around a       brand looks.                             disregard the cost and logistics of certain
                             specific product or for a specific event, enabling them to                                                materials — or even ditch realistic materials
                             see how different pieces might work together — both in the       LOUIS VUITTON                            altogether. For instance, Buffalo London
                                                                                              Through a collaboration with leading
                             digital and the real world.                                                                               partnered with The Fabricant to produce a pair
                                                                                              video game producer Riot Games,
                                 “What I’ve tried to do with Drest is take all the elements   Louis Vuitton created several            of sneakers made from flames.
                             of the real world — whether it’s a hairstyle by Sam Knight       themed items for the 2019 League             “From a consumer perspective, the digital
                             or a dress by Gucci — and replicate them in this beautiful       of Legends World Championship            fashion environment is this vast, untapped,
                             virtual space,” said Yeomans. “People can come and still         Finals. Products included a bespoke      creative terrain where all things are possible,
                                                                                              travel case for the league’s trophy,
                             be with the product, but it can be done at scale, it can be                                               without limits or boundaries. It’s an open
                                                                                              as well as a number of digital skins
                             done very sustainably, and they can really engage with the       (virtual outfits) designed by Nicolas    goal for the imagination,” said Larosse.
                             storytelling in a far more immersive environment.”               Ghesquière to be worn within             “When you’re digitally dressed, you can wear
                                 For Yeomans, the duality of the physical and virtual         the game.                                materials that are impossible in real life, like
                             product is critical. Fashion, especially luxury fashion,                                                  waterfalls or clouds.”
                             has always possessed an aspirational element; digital
                                                                                              BALENCIAGA                                   Digital products might seem to the
                                                                                              To announce his fall ’21 collection,
                             products enable a democratization of discovery, even             Balenciaga’s creative director,          uninitiated like a fun gimmick, but they
                             if only in a virtual realm. For the brands, it provides a        Demna Gvasalia, released a video         represent a growing business. Dress-X sells
                             new way to share their designs with a greater audience,          game called “Afterworld: The Age of      digital-only products, which they will render
                             without diluting the exclusivity of the products                 Tomorrow.” Available to any visitor to   onto a chosen image once purchased. For social
                                                                                              the brand website, players began in a
                             themselves.                                                                                               media users, this makes it possible to style and
                                                                                              dystopian Balenciaga store and then
                                 It’s this expanded exposure that turns Drest from            explored ascending levels of utopia,     post a greater volume of outfits for a fraction of
                             pure entertainment into a potential brand revenue                surrounded by 3D avatars wearing         the cost of a physical outfit and without any of
                             source. Younger consumers, or anyone not currently in            looks from the new collection.           the associated waste.
                                                                                                                                           Sustainability is a growing concern for
                                                                                                                                       brands and consumers alike, and digital
                                                                                                                                       products offer an appealing compromise. And
                                                                                                                                       as technology develops, connecting different
                                                                                                                                       virtual platforms into a unified Metaverse, the
                                                                                                                                       merchandise will be able to travel across video
                                                                                                                                       games and other digital worlds. Blockchain
                                                                                                                                       technology makes it possible to tokenize these
                                                                                                                                       assets, for resale or donation as needed, much
                                                                                                                                       like physical product.
                                                                                                                                           “From our perspective, as 3D specialists
                                                                                                                                       working at the intersection of fashion and
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS

                                                                                                                                       technology, we envision a world where digital
                                                                                                                                       garments replace physical inventory when
                             the position to purchase luxury product, can still explore           Brands can partner                   possible,” said Larosse. “The non-physical
                             collections and build a relationship with these labels,              with Drest to launch                 world has become our primary tool for human
                             which might prompt purchases in the future. For those                styling challenges                   connection and self-expression. With this
                                                                                                  around a single product
                             who are able to buy now, Drest provides the ability to do                                                 backdrop, it’s inevitable that screenwear has
                             so through its partnership with luxury e-tailer Farfetch.                                                 become the new streetwear.”

                                                                                                                                                                                        24
                                                                                                                                                                                        15
POWERED BY

           LABS

 The Creative
 Recreation Bolt
 is new for 2021

A Bolt of Sneaker Inspiration
                  After nearly two decades as a mainstay of the LA streetwear culture,
        Creative Recreation is back with a new energy, a new silhouette and a dynamic design duo.

T
                                                  Recreation is looking to infuse its brand with    the next generation of creative leaders.        the original brand DNA. It starts from the
                                                  a bolt of energy, embodied in the brand new       Rich Cofinco: We created a new side logo        concept design process; from there every-
                                                  Zeus silhouette.                                  that enables the brand to expand its identity   thing goes through brand filters to ensure we
                                                     FN spoke with Cofinco and Jones about          and adapt a new look as we transition and       stay true to ourselves and the brand vision.
                                                  their creative partnership, the evolution of      transform for the next wave of CR fans. Yet,
                                                  the brand and what consumers can expect           the identity of Creative Recreation remains     FN: How has Creative Recreation devel-
                     oday, athleisure is every-   in spring 2021.                                   unique, quality product for free spirits and    oped as a brand since it first launched
where but the evolution of sneakers, from                                                           creative fashion leaders.                       in 2002?
athletic accessory to fashion staple, has been    Brand Direction                                                                                   RC: In 2002, we didn’t have a core estab-
building since the early 2000s. One brand         FN: How has the brand’s identity                  FN: How does the team balance Creative          lished. Nobody knew us. Today, Creative
was at the heart of this transition: Creative     evolved as we’ve entered a new year               Recreation’s distinctive DNA, while still       Recreation can make anything. We aren’t a
Recreation. Quickly earning a reputation          and a new decade?                                 embracing innovation and growth?                brand that sticks to any certain lifestyle – we
amongst the creative trailblazers of Los Ange-    Jason Jones: I think the biggest shift is posi-   RC: Trends come and go so it’s important        are a lifestyle. If we make tap dancing shoes,
les, the Creative Recreation brand has built      tioning the brand to be more accessible to a      for us to stay true to our DNA – and we         they’ll be the coolest tap shoes in the market.
itself a legacy as the leader in streetwear.      diverse range of consumers. In the early days     will. Our innovation and process remains        We follow inspiration wherever it leads and
   Now, the brand is embracing a new audi-        the brand garnered attention through the LA       the same: No rules, creative freedom, stay      let the market follow. Our family of retailers
ence of consumers with its latest collection      club scene, back when pure athletic shoes         true to the original idea of the brand. When    and customers have an emotional attach-
for spring 2021. Behind this reinvention is       were not accepted as proper dress code for        you wear Creative Recreation products, it’s     ment to Creative Recreation; And we are
the combined talents of Jason Jones and           the better clubs. Creative Recreation became      recognizable.                                   driven to keep them satisfied.
original Creative Recreation co-founder,          integrated with the LA streetwear culture and     JJ: Bringing Rich back to his CR roots as       JJ: Undoubtedly, the introduction of the
Rich Cofinco. With these two design minds         we want to tap back into that core, embracing     one of the original founders was the first      iconic “Cesario” style in the early days
behind the upcoming product line, Creative        our heritage while introducing the brand to       step in identifying those key elements of       was a tipping point for the brand. As Rich

16
both understand what Creative Recreation
                                                   is about. So, working with the original
                                                   founder and design developer of CR – a
        Trends                                     brand that has captured the imagination of
                                                   so many loyal fans – is exciting, enjoyable
      come and                                     and rewarding.

       go so it’s                                  FN: As a design partnership, how does
                                                   the development process play out?
      important                                    RC: As long as the partnership is in sync, the
                                                   possibilities are endless. Our team is enthusi-
       for us to                                   astic about the creative process; it never feels
                                                   like work for any of us. Generally, I create the
     stay true to                                  idea and we all discuss and kick around ways
                                                   to improve the product. Jason is a genius at
      our DNA –                                    recognizing lines and shapes. He can tell if

     and we will.”
                                                   something on paper will execute in an instant.
                                                   JJ: To me, the ingredients must work
                                                   together to bring an idea to market. Rich
         — RICH COFINCO,
                                                   and I complement each other and lead all
      CO-FOUNDER OF
    CREATIVE RECREATION                            design and development for the brand. If
                                                   Rich needs to design 10 new patterns, he
referenced, the Cesario created a reliable         can knock that out before lunch. He’s got
core customer. This is still the style that        limitless ideas in his head. So that means
the majority of old school CR fans will            we must recognize the best of the best and
remember most fondly and it has become             perfect it, as part of the design equation.
one of those rare timeless classics that
remains relevant today. We will always             Spring Collection
                                                                                                                                 The brand is
update and make unique versions of the             FN: The upcoming collection introduces
                                                                                                                             synonymous with
Cesario but our next development, the              a brand new silhouette, the Zeus. What                                       LA streetwear
Zeus, launches in spring 2021.                     was the inspiration behind this style and                                      and culture
                                                   how does it reflect the future direction
FN: Tell us more about what long-time              of the brand?                                        The Bolt logo
fans of the brand can expect in 2021?              RC: We integrated the concept of ancient             represents the
RC: Unique styles with creative color combi-       Zeus and his lightning bolt and adapted it to        fresh energy of CR
nations. There’s an energy to our new              the shoe. Positive, powerful energy is the fuel
products that will catch the eye. We learned       of creation and so this idea of energy plays
that the Cesario was an evergreen pattern          into the “Bolt” logo. We’re looking to focus
that could be reimagined forever; now again        on fresh new looks that inspire a creative,
with the Zeus, our big introduction for 2021,      young, entrepreneurial lifestyle. That’s
we have a design that can be reimagined with       why the Bolt fits the idea of the brand: An
endless iterations that are easily recognizable.   entrepreneurial lifestyle is one that takes
JJ: Customers should expect a nod to our           boundless energy and optimism.
heritage products, along with some explo-          JJ: The new collection embraces our heri-
ration of new design inspirations from             tage but also pushes us forward to explore
Rich. These really push the brand in some          new directions. CR speaks to consumers who
fresh directions. Fans will start to notice        covet creativity in all aspects of their lives and
the transformation through our consumer            who possess an entrepreneurial spirit to create
direct touchpoints in a narrative format           their own individual paths to success.
this spring, as we begin to launch new
product introductions.                             FN: What are you most excited for with
                                                   this new collection launch?
Designer Collaboration                             RC: Looking forward to the reaction.
FN: What is it like to work together on            I’m anxious to watch it grow. Creative
this brand?                                        Recreation, as a brand, is back! The chem-
RC: Jason is multitalented and even better,        istry and the enthusiasm is real; the product
he gets the Creative Recreation DNA and            we have created represents a lot of collabo-
mission. For us to collab and create together      ration among talented people. The hardest
makes our products have more meaning               part is waiting for the launch.
because of the passion and understanding           JJ: Introducing a new generation to Creative
put into building the brand.                       Recreation and continuing to drive the brand
JJ: We all share a common passion for              evolution. Like Rich said, waiting to see the
creative people, places, and things. We            shoes on our customers is the hardest part.

For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Sandi Mines at smines@footwearnews.com
                                                                                                                                            17
Slippers have helped
drive Ugg sales gains

COZYUP           As the comfort market continues
                    to boom, established slipper
                    brands are finding ways to
                  maintain momentum, while new
                 players look to capitalize on the
                         growing category.
                           By Nikara Johns

                                                     PHOTO:: COURTESY OF UGG
INFINITY FD WORK BOOT SERIES
            Designed for performance and comfort that lasts all day, the Infinity Series work boots will keep you
           on your feet, wherever the site and whatever the job. Get the protection your job needs, with waterproof
                 full-grain leather, a composite shank, and composite safety toe, as well as the multi-traction,
             self-cleaning, Infinity FD FLEX-DRIVE outsole. And you’ll be ready to bounce back with our proprietary
            anti-fatigue high rebound sole that returns energy with every step! With all of the energy you put into
           your day, don’t you deserve something back? These work boots don’t sacrifice comfort for performance,
                       giving peace of mind, comfort, and confidence so you can focus on a job well done.

804-3416                      804-4305                     804-6305                      804-4303               804-4304 // 400G INSULATED

                                     T H O R O G O O D U S A . C O M
                                                                                                                                             0221
Minnetonka is putting a bigger
                                           emphasis on slippers          And comfort overall will
                                                                     remain important, even in non-
                                                                     slipper footwear, Goldstein added.
                                                                         In September, 70% of
                                                                     consumers surveyed told NPD
                                                                     that once they can return to work
                                                                     and normal activities, they plan to
                                                                     dress just as or more casually than
                                                                     they did prior to the pandemic.
                                                                         This consumer shift has caused
                                                                     established slipper brands to up
                                                                     their game, by expanding their
                                                                     selection of indoor-outdoor styles
                                                                     or hard-soled shoes.
                                                                         At the same time, many
                                                                     newcomers have materialized
                                                                     as they look to capitalize on the
                                                                     boom, bringing fresh excitement
                                                                     and competition to a normally                TOPS
                                                                     niche market.
                                                                                                                  TO TOES
                                                                     The Establishment                            Footwear is not the only place
                                                                       Traditional comfort brands found           people are looking for comfort these
                                                                       themselves in strong standing              days. Leisure is in demand from
                                                                       last year as consumers looked to           head to toe, and traditional shoe
                                                                       prioritize ease. According to The          brands are looking to connect with
                                                                                                                  consumers through apparel lines.
                                                                       Lyst Index’s quarterly ranking,
                                                                                                                      Last year, Allbirds expanded
                                                                       searches for casual items such as          into clothing with wool jumpers and
                                                                       slippers skyrocketed a whopping            cardigans, and it has since added
                                                                       242% in Q4, compared with the              new styles including a men’s hoodie
                                                                                                                  and a long cardigan for women.

Y
                                                                       same period in 2019.
                                                                           Leading the pack was Ugg.                  In fall ’20, Ugg also took the
                                                                                                                  plunge into the ready-to-wear
                                                                           Searches for Ugg shoes surged          category, featuring a mix of
                                                                       in the last quarter of 2020,               loungewear, such as fleecy hoodies,
                               ou knew times           resonating with both men and women. For                    track pants and shorts.
                               were changing           example, the Ugg Scuff Deco slippers made an                   “Ugg is a brand known for how
                               early last year         appearance on the men’s hottest product list,              it makes people ‘feel,’” said brand
                                                                                                                  president Andrea O’Donnell in a
                               when high heels         while its Classic Ultra Mini boots topped the
                                                                                                                  statement at the time. “Our new
                               started collecting      women’s list.                                              apparel collection was inspired by
                               dust in closets             Ugg was also a driving factor for Deckers              the emotional relationship we have
                               and Instagram           Outdoor Corp.’s record Q3 performance, with                with our customers.”
                               feeds filled up         sales for the brand jumping 12.2% to $876.8                    Now, L.L. Bean has expanded its
                               with influencers in     million, fueled by major growth for non-classic            product line to reflect the pandemic
                                                                                                                  wardrobe. This month, the company
sweatpants with big balls of fluff on their feet.      footwear, including slippers and the now-                  launched an athleisure collection
    Since the coronavirus pandemic began               ubiquitous Fluff franchise.                                for all comfort-wear needs, from
upending norms last year, “at-home” leisurewear            According to Deckers CEO and president Dave            joggers and jackets to hoodies (and
has gained major momentum, and with that has           Powers, the Fluff series has been a compelling             sport shoes and scuffs, too).
come a surge in slipper sales — a trend that is        acquisition vehicle for driving repurchase
not likely to slow down any time soon, according       decisions and helped increase the brand’s 18- to
to experts.                                            34-year-old demographic.
    While the comfort footwear category was                Ugg president Andrea O’Donnell said the
already accelerating prior to COVID-19, it saw         increased consumer attention makes sense:            and reach a diverse audience. “We’ve already
an inevitable boost last year, with slipper sales,     “We possess an authentic heritage in the slipper     established that most of our [slipper] styles
specifically, increasing 21% compared to 2019,         category. So it was expected that in a work-from-    have indoor/outdoor versatility and serve many
according to The NPD Group Inc. Meanwhile,             home capacity we would see more business.”           purposes in our consumer’s life,” said O’Donnell.
sales of fashion footwear, including heels, sandals,       For 2021, Ugg continues to focus on              “Our upcoming ‘Feel You’ campaign is all about
and boots, declined 27% for the year.                  introducing new styles and updating its icons.       style and individuality and features creatives who
    Beth Goldstein, fashion footwear and               This spring, the brand added more Fluff Yeahs        all wear key styles in different ways.”
accessories analyst at NPD predicted further           to its assortment, featuring new colorways,              Meanwhile, Dearfoams has been expanding its
gains for slippers in the early part of 2021,          durable outsoles and strappy silhouettes for         product offerings to compete in an increasingly
followed by a gradual leveling out later in the        warmer months.                                       crowded market. For more than 70 years, the
                                                                                                                                                                 PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS

year. However, she noted the slipper trend could           Execs noted the key goal this year is creating                  heritage brand has been an
be here to stay: “Continued innovation in the          comfort looks that are                                               accessible mainstay for consumers
category and a lasting focus on the at-home            multifunctional                                                        looking for slippers, but now
wardrobe — even as we start shifting back to                                                                                      it’s entering the everyday
office life and social events — could allow for           Olivia Morris At Home                                                    footwear category with
sales of the category to remain elevated.”               mules are made in Spain                                                   The Original Dearfoams

20
Comfort collection, which launched in early                “When COVID came on we started to get                  For British designer Olivia Morris — who
February and offers the feeling of a house slipper     calls from our retailers asking if we had slippers.    had her own namesake line in the 2000s and
in a slip-on sneaker silhouette.                       They were canceling our dress shoes,” explained        worked for well-known brands such as Hobbs
    “Consumer behavior and needs have                  president Kevin Schiff. “We really went to work.       and Lulu Guinness in recent years — launching
fundamentally changed over the past year and           We found that work-from-home was just a small          an eponymous label in today’s market required
are not going back,” said Angela Kenney, VP of         part of the lifestyle change that was happening.       a unique viewpoint — and it wasn’t going to be
merchandising and design at Dearfoams. “As             So we looked at it like, ‘What are we building for?    heels. Instead she’s betting big on slippers after
we look forward, we will take our lead from the        How are we living our life differently?’”              seeing a gap in the market for stylish options.
consumer, who is clearly leading the brand to              Enter the Short Commute Collection, which              “It’s absolutely about a woman wanting
all things comfy in the home and beyond. The           launches this spring. The shoes are designed           to get dressed at home, wanting to feel chic
casualization and ‘buy now, wear now’ trends           with slip-resistant, non-marking outsoles, water-      and fashionable. The fact [that the shoes] are
have allowed us to excel given how readily             resistant uppers and are offered in clog and moc       comfortable is the added bonus,” she said about
accessible our brand and products are.”                silhouettes.                                           her glamorous, made-in-Spain house mules.
    Bob Mullaney, CEO of Dearfoams parent                  Even without seeing samples firsthand,             “Olivia Morris At Home is designed as beautifully
company RG Barry Brands, added that savvy              Florsheim’s wholesale partners, from Zappos to         as any high heel, with vibrant and feminine print
moves ahead of the pandemic set the stage              Macy’s, jumped on board. “We sold more of these        and color and trims. It’s a nod to nostalgia, but
for these new opportunities. “The investment           than any other item that we have in our line,”         for a modern-day client with modern-day needs,”
in new products and entering the shearling             added Schiff.                                          said Morris. That idea appears to be resonating:
segment with 100% genuine Australian shearling             Leading slipper brands say they are unphased       The line has been picked up by Shopbop,
has enabled RG Barry to be ready when the              by this increase in competition, but it’s clear they   Hampden Boutique and Capitol & Canary, and
consumer trends accelerated,” he said.                 aren’t staying complacent. Beyond the steps taken      also sells on her e-commerce site.
    Similarly, Minnetonka also found itself well-      by Ugg, Dearfoams and Minnetonka, Lamo last                For luxury label Zyne, known for its traditional
                                                                                                              Moroccan-made, babouche styles, the pandemic

C ONSU MER
                                                                                                              changed the fashion landscape, prompting the
                                                                                                              founders to enter the home category in 2021 with
                                                                                                              a variety of slippers.

B EHAVIOR AND                                                                                                     “With the lockdown in place, a majority
                                                                                                              of people were not going out, so their shoes

NE EDS HAVE
                                                                                                              remained unused in their closet. We decided to
                                                                                                              launch our home line because we understood that
                                                                                                              investing in a pair of slippers was more valuable

FU N DAMENTALLY                                                                                               than [investing] in a pair of slides or heels that
                                                                                                              you were not realistically able to use at the

CHA NGED OVER
                                                                                                              moment,” said co-founder Zineb Britel.
                                                                                                                  Now, with this entry into comfort, Zyne is able

THE PAST YEAR.
                                                                                                              to target a different audience through the new
                                                                                                              styles, as well as by significantly reducing its price
                                                                                                              points. (The at-home collection starts at $150,
                                                                                                              compared with $290 to $440 for its core pieces.)
Angela Kenney, Dearfoams                                                                                          Said co-founder Laura Pujol, “This was a
                                                                                                              turning point for our brand. We never imagined
positioned during the height of COVID, thanks to       fall introduced Lamolite, a line of everyday casual    launching a home line collection, but we came
an earlier decision to focus on slippers. President    footwear for men and women. And this month,            to the realization that looking great for others
Jori Miller Sherer said the category has been part     Birdies, the 6-year-old slipper startup, unveiled      should be equally as important as looking good
of Minnetonka’s assortment since its inception         its first sneaker silhouette, The Swift.               for yourself.”
75 years ago, but in 2019, the brand launched
a new line called Home & Away that offered             The Luxe POV                                                                             The first Dearfoams
comfortable indoor-outdoor styles. Then in 2020,       As the high fashion and
                                                                                                                                            slipper debuted in 1948
Minnetonka introduced slipper slides, which have       comfort markets intersect
been a success.                                        like never before, it’s no
    “We actually did that as a test and it kept        surprise that luxury brands
selling out. Now this year, it’s going to be a large   are also looking to cash in
category for us,” said Miller Sherer. “We think the    on the slipper craze. On the
cozy vibe is going to be here for quite a while.       runways this season, high-end
We’re doing releases every month for our 75th          menswear labels, including
anniversary, and we’re doing extra releases all the    Fendi, Dries Van Noten, JW
time on our website.”                                  Anderson and Alyx, showcased
    Even though the consumer shift to slippers         comfort-driven designs ranging
has proved beneficial for industry power players,      from cozy socks to shearling
it has opened the door for others to take a piece      scuffs. And almost every brand
of the pie.                                            — including Gucci, Louis
    One unexpected newcomer is men’s dress             Vuitton and Coach — now
shoe brand Florsheim, which previously had             counts at least one slipper
one slipper in its lineup. But after the pandemic      silhouette in their collections.
halted office life, the brand made an aggressive       But for some shoemakers,
pivot and developed a new line of at-home              slippers are now the way to
comfort shoes.                                         make a splash with consumers.

                                                                                                                                                                 21
You can also read