FUTURE INNOVATIONS How are the shifting macro trends influencing - Amanda Mannell
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Amanda Mannell Final Major Project
How are the
shifting macro
trends influencing
FUTURE
INNOVATIONS
within slow and
SUSTAINABLE
FASHION?
Amanda Mannell
ARTD3046 Final Fashion Management Project
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How are the shifting macro trends influencing future innovations within slow and sustainable fashion? Final Major Project
CON
T E
N TS
8 10 18 30 38 46 64
I N T RO D U CT I O N PA R T 1 .
S LO W
PA R T 2 .
D O M I N AT I N G
M AC R O
PA R T 3 .
D E TOX I F Y I N G
PA R T 4 .
C O N V E RG I N G
PA R T 5 .
BRAND
C O N C LU S I O N
FA S H I O N T H E S U P P LY M E G AT R E N D S P RO P O SA L
R E VO LU T I O N TRENDS CHAIN
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How are the shifting macro trends influencing future innovations within slow and sustainable fashion? Final Major Project
EXECUTIVE New and existing brands are incessantly looking for ways to
innovate their business models and thrive in a competitive
environment. However, Todeschini, B. V et al explains that
exposed themselves. This included the rise in attention
towards slow living, moreover, embracing wellness through
products and services. Trend forecasters at LS; N global
S U M M A RY
“sustainable business models are still in the exploratory phase,” believe that in our post-growth society, “success is no longer
(2017) are yet to fully acknowledge and experiment with hinged on GDP, but on happiness and fulfilment.” (Smith, J
emerging trends. New markets, new technologies and shifting and Firth, P. 2020) Obsessing over profit and revenue in turn
consumer needs are presenting significant opportunities along leads to wrong decisions. Therefore, rejecting the idea that
with costly risks. Currently the fashion industry is going under the economic sustainability of slow fashion is a matter to be
transformational change due to unprecedented disruption of fixated on when innovating a slow fashion brand, but instead
a global pandemic. The damage and recovery process is yet they need to be focusing on future innovations which embrace
to be established however McKinsey explain the in the midst their overall purpose and values and reflect the positive
of a macroeconomic event “only those brands who accurately contribution to environmental, social and ethnical progress.
reflect the zeitgeist or have the courage to self-disrupt will A solution to this would be focusing on the detoxification of
emerge as winners.” (McKinsey & Co. 2019) the supply chain which will encompasses ethnical values of
Analysis on the shift towards a more sustainable approach slow fashion whilst meeting the demands of the conscious
to fashion revealed how western retailers have started to consumer. Innovation in new materials, rise in legislations
transform their business models by abolishing fast fashion and demand for transparency is helping slow fashion brand
methods and implementing environmentally and ethnically innovate their business models to adopt a more economical
conscious strategies. This comes at a time where “consumers viable and social and environmental conscious business
are becoming increasingly concerned with social and model. Moreover, focus on more holistic and real approach
environmental cause backing their beliefs with shopping to business has driven the idea that to do business in fashion
habits and favour brands who align with their values.” you must stand for a bigger purpose rather than generating
(Business of Fashion, 2019) In response, large scale retailers profit. Once again emphasis that economic sustainability is
such as H&M & Zara have invested in sustainable actions not a defining success factor in this industry anymore.
with the legitimized belief that this trend will persist. They The rise in digital technologies has also revolutionised the way
are challenged by start-up brands who have also adopted this slow fashion brands can connect with their consumers and
macro shift towards sustainability but centred their whole create an opportunity to create a more immersive experience.
existence to providing consumers with environmentally Consuming digitally is much more sustainable and can be
conscious products. These brand aim to encompass balance accomplished by providing alternative content which doesn’t
by “slowing downing consumption, extending the lifecycle involve the production or consumption of new products.
of products and creating a circular economy.” (Fletcher, K. Part 5 of this report explore the future of slow fashion with
2008) However, Jung, S & Jung B question how economically a brand propose which encompasses the trends discussed
sustainable of slow fashion business models are as they believe and demonstrates how they can be implementing to create a
their ability to generate and sustain profit is challenged when successful business model.
trying to diminish consumption and select quality over
quantity which unhandily increase product price. (2016)
This report provides an investigative analysis into shifts in
the macro environment which are leading to bigger ideas
and innovative strategies likely to influence the future of the
slow fashion movement. The shifts in consumer attitudes and
demands will demonstrate how sustainability is creating a
new consumer value whilst the analysis of macro trends will
provide alternative approaches to sustainable business models
which still encompass the triple bottom line.
Upon exploring macro environment using the framework
provided by Nystrom, dominating trends, which are causing
a move towards slower consumption and sustainable products
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How are the shifting macro trends influencing future innovations within slow and sustainable fashion? Final Major Project
The aim of this report is to address a theoretical problem
and provide speculative solutions and conclusions to how
the macro environment is currently influencing innovations
within sustainable fashion. In order to achieve a validated
investigation, a mixed method approach was conducted using
numerous quantitative and qualitative secondary sources to
allow for a combination of numerical measurements and in-
depth exploration. Due to the disruption caused by covid-19,
obtaining primary research was made more challenging.
Although efforts were made to obtain qualitative data in the
METHOD
form of an interview with sustainable fashion brands, the
discrepancies of responses meant that it was not sufficient
enough to include in the body of research or draw out any
conclusions.
Quantitative data was attained through investigative analysis
of secondary surveys, reports and journals, such as Business
of Fashions and McKinsey & Company ‘The State of
O LO G Y
Fashion’ series, which provided statements and conclusive
data on consumer shifts and industry issues. Trend forecasting
sites such as Euromonitor and Mintel were also paramount
to the exploration into dominating macro trends and helped
legitimise findings with statistics. The quantitative data and
statements used to formulate an idea or conclusion were
validated by rigorousness study into multiple sources which
claimed the same or similar evidence. This approach achieved
the best results for categorising and identifying patterns which
generalisations could be made from.
Secondary qualitive data, although less controlled and
more interpretive, was used to gain an in-depth insight into
specific concepts and theories. Books such as ‘Consumer
Behaviour and Sustainable Fashion Consumption’ edited
by Senthilkannan Muthu, S provided understanding into
consumer behaviour regarding sustainable fashion, whilst
‘managing Sustainable Business’ edited by Lenssen G., Smith
N suggested business model innovations for sustainability and
the importance of creating shared value to achieve growth.
The range of qualitive data used was more expansive than
quantitative data used due to the nature of the investigation.
These sources provided areas of interest within the report
and worked the best for describing, interpreting and
contextualising ideas and future innovations. They also
underpinned knowledge and comprehensive understanding
into themes such as slow fashion. ‘Sustainable Fashion &
Textiles’ written by Fletcher, K contributed sufficiently to the Fig 1. Lazaridou, M (2020)
general understanding of slow fashion and although didn’t
provide evidence to conclude answers to the investigate, did
enhance the justification of ideas and gave standardised
information. Validity of this type of research was achieved by
analysing trusted resources and using known industry expert
materials. Alongside, maintaining a critical stance when
meticulously analysing sources to help ensure that the content
of this report is rational and balanced.
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How are the shifting macro trends influencing future innovations within slow and sustainable fashion? Final Major Project
I N T RO
D U CT I O N
Sustainability-related business model innovations are thriving, approach. The uncertainty on how to innovate a sustainable
with new ones arriving almost daily. The sudden proliferation fashion business model while pursuing not only economic
of such innovation guided this exploration into the impactful but social and environmental value creation can be relieved
Fig 2. Dukic, N (2020) macro trends and shifts in consumer behaviour which are by gaining perspective on the zeitgeist. Capturing the macro
likely to influence the future direction of slow fashion. trends develops a “capacity for systemic thinking so that
Slow fashion is an emerging form of retail “centred on they ‘connect the dots’ by separating the noise and everyday
production principles that encourage increased lifecycle of activities from the fundamental shifts that are taking place in
products, reduced volume of purchasing by individuals, and the industry.” (Thind, R. 2018) This report outlines some of
ethnical care in production and sales.” (McNeil. L & Snowdon, the dominated trends driving change in the fashion industry
J. 2019) The adoption of this system shifts incentives in the and which slow fashion brands can embody into their business
value chain and encourages consumers to prioritise longevity strategies to stay competitive and provide alternative values to
and consumption ethics over price and newness. However, consumers.
“the necessity for profit making and market share underscores
the difficulty in slow fashion position in the modern market”
(McNeil.L & Snowdon, J. 2019) due to understandable
higher prices and unique values. Unlocking opportunities to
encourage consumer to support this shift and adopt a new
approach to consumption will involve taking a new approach
to value creation which rejects the traditional fast fashion
Fig 3. Dukic, N (2020)
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P a r t 1 . S l ow F a s h i o n Revo l u t i o n P a r t 1 . S l ow F a s h i o n Revo l u t i o n
FA S T FA S H I O N
Slow
PA R T 1 .
Fashion
Fig 4. Fashion Revolution (2020)
Over the past 20 years the boundaries in the fashion industry to the “industry accounting for eight per cent of global green
started to expand and key strategies such as ‘sense and respond’ house gases.” (The Guardian, 2020)
were used by mainstream retailers to maintain a profitable Fortunately, the media has shone a light on the negativities
position in the increasingly dynamic and demanding market. surrounding fast fashion and the conscious consumers have
(Bhardwaj, V & Fairhurst, A. 2010) Large and sophisticated awoken and begun demanding more clarity on the supply
Revolution
fast fashion brands such as ASOS and Misguided are able to chain process used by their favourite retailers. McKinsey state
respond quickly to trends because of agile and streamlined that internet searches for ‘sustainable fashion’ tripled between
operating systems. This new business model has abolished 2016 and 2019 evidencing that the quest for knowledge
traditional Spring- Summer and Autumn- Winter collections is mounting. (Business of Fashion, 2019) Sustainability is
to incorporate constant deliveries of ‘seasonless’ merchandise. now arguably one of the biggest issues in fashion today
McKinsey have reported that “92% of vertically integrated and has encouraged a growing movement among retailers
players launch product monthly or even continuously.” (Berg, to incorporate ethical and sustainable practises into their
A et al. 2018) This relentless rotation of different trends business.
generated by celebrities, media, art and culture have “led
consumers to seek products, sometimes regardless of quality
and price, that are cool, fresh and relevant.” (Thind, R. 2018)
Millburn and Nicodemus believe that this system has resulted
in overconsumption and embedded an irresponsible attitude
amongst consumers who believe that cheap products can be
treated as disposable. (Minimalism: A Documentary About
the Important Things,2015) Furthermore, it doesn’t help
that the rapid and low cost manufacturing cycles needed to
keep up with the trends produces low quality and low priced
fashion products which prompts consumers to buy multiple
clothes at once, to which they then dispose of them shortly
after, resulting in increasing amounts of waste. (Fletcher,
K. 2010) This profit driven industry ignored its destructive
impact it was having on environment which, as a result, led
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P a r t 1 . S l ow F a s h i o n Revo l u t i o n P a r t 1 . S l ow F a s h i o n Revo l u t i o n
S LO W FA S H I O N Fig 5. Aiayu (2020)
Awareness of an increasing population and diminishing This mindful production cycle originated from the slow food
natural resources has enabled the sustainability concept movement in 1986 which “has gradually expanded to oppose
to play a more important role within economic, social and the proliferation of corporate-centred dynamics such as fast
environmental development. “It now has the core purpose of food restaurants in countries that have traditionally been
meeting the needs of today’s generation without giving harm attached to the origins of food” (Mayer, H & Knox, P.L. 2006)
to that of the future generation.” (Saricam. C & Okur. N. It since, has become a way of living and eating which remains
2019) In response, Slow Fashion Movement, came to play committed to the community and the environment.
and rotated the current fashion system. Fashion sustainability
enthusiast, Kate Fletcher explains it as a “new vision for The slow approach presents a prospect of fashion and can
fashion in the era of sustainability: where pleasure and identify sustainable solutions to the extreme wastefulness and
fashion is linked with awareness and responsibility.” (Fletcher, lack of environmental concern of the current system. Clark
K. 2008) Slow fashion calls for increased environmental and identifies 3 lines of reflections associated with the slow fashion
social consciousness from fashion producers when making movement, and if adhered to formulates a sustainable and
choices in all areas of the products lifecycle. This includes conscious brand. (Clark, H. 2015)
fabric choices, cultivation, production, manufacturing,
distribution, consumer laundering, reuse and final disposal.
TRANSPARENT PRODUCTION SYSTEMS
Transparency across the supply chain is now demanded by consumers and
according to Business pf Fashion, “consumers now expect companies to
reciprocate with radical transparency and sharing of information. (2018) It has
become important further up the supply chain with increasing concerns about
issues including fair labour, sustainable resourcing and the environment. Giving
the consumer greater transparency can add to the value chain because retailers
and brands will rigorously audit their business practises to identify potential areas
that may erode consumer trust.
L I N E O F R E F L E CT I O N
VALUING OF LOCAL RESOURCES SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS
Fashion currently works on an international scale. We are consuming clothes that have been The slow fashion movement encourages responsible use on resources
designed, manufactured and retailed in more than one country. “The textile and clothing and labour in the production of fashion good. The whole lifecycle of
industries, which produce around 7% of all world exports manufactured by 26.5 million, the fashion products needs to be sustainably considered including the
mainly women, workers, many of whom are paid below living wages and suffer sweatshop materials and fibres used in manufacturing down to its disposal and
conditions” (Allwood, J.M. 2006) An emerging approach is to decentralise and localise the waste management strategy. “The introduction of alternative fibres
production of fashion good, harbouring the physical and social resources of each origin. and innovative technologies such as organic cotton and lyocell can have
Garments process offshore creates an environmental cost of transportation but reducing large positive effects of the environmental impact posed by the fashion
carbon emissions is only one part of the move towards local. Fletcher notes that localisation industry.” (Fletcher, K. 2008) Valuing resources and minimising the
brings “economic resilience, social engagement and cultural and aesthetic diversity.” impact on the environment is the fundamental credential to the slow
(Fletcher, K. 2008) Developing product to sustain a community, providing people with fashion movement and creating more sustainable fashion products is
meaningful work and a sense of connection to the place they live represents an opportunity the first step to improvement.
for major change within the industry.
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P a r t 1 . S l ow F a s h i o n Revo l u t i o n P a r t 1 . S l ow F a s h i o n Revo l u t i o n
W E S T E R N R E TA I L E R S
TA K I N G O N
S U S TA I N A B L E P R AC T I S E
CAS E ST U DY H & M
Fast Fashion brand H&M has begun to implement long term strategies into their business
model which progress towards circular and climate positive future of fashion. They have
described their deepest intentions are “to be fair and equal to the people and the communities
around them. Use the planet’s resources consciously and become a Circular & Climate
Positive company. And Lead the Change by pushing themselves and the industry to reinvent
and transform.” (H&M. 2020) Their ambition to transform into a fully sustainable brand
has reinvented the fast fashion industry and provided a clear example of how it can be done.
In their 2019 `Group Sustainability Performance Report’ they detailed the launch of a
“business-to-business service called Treadler, which offers textile and apparel retailers access
to the group’s supply chain, enabling other companies to accelerate sustainable social and
environmental change through their own value chains more quickly” (Fish, I &Whelan, G.
2020) This demonstrates that they are leading the way to a more sustainable industry, focused
on true change with an authentic nature and not driven by competition and profit.
Efforts H&M have taken include using one recycled or organic cotton, working with supplier
who are enrolled in the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals programme and creating a
transparent supply chain so consumers can see who and how their clothes were made.
Fig 6. Topshop (2019)
In a recent survey conducted by Euromonitor “61% of competitors in the market.” (Jung, S & Jin, B. 2016) Therefore
consumers said they were worried about climate change and you could suggest that brands who are capturing consumer
53% of them feel that they can make a difference in the world shift and incorporating sustainable values into their strategies
with their purchases.” (Euromonitor International, 2020) This are gaining a competitive advantage. However, Business of
eco-anxiety is reshaping consumer values and expectations Fashion emphasis that it is important that brands “carefully
increasing trepidation into businesses. In recognition to ensure consistency in their messages and actions” or they risk
consumer shifts and new government legislations surround losing authenticity and consumer trust. (Business of Fashion.
sustainable practises, existing retailers have adapted parts of 2018) Some companies are disrupting the industry further by
the business strategy to incorporate sustainable and ethical putting purpose at the heart of their strategy and operations.
strategies. Clinton and Whisnant have explained that “business
models are the underlying structures of how companies
create, deliver and capture value which form the engine of
our economy.” (Clinton, L & Whisnant, R. 2018) The pressure
from the circulating awareness of sustainability which is filtered
throughout the macro environment has encouraged conscious
brands to transform their existing models, so they are able to
create, deliver and capture sustainable values and ultimately
disrupt the industry. In order to capture the attention of
the new conscious consumer, brands are having to innovate
their business models and rethink their proposed values and
brand identity. According to the customer value creation Fig 7. H&M (2020)
framework set out by Jung and Jin, “firms that are capable of
creating and providing customers with products of believed
superior value may acquire a more favourable position than 14 15
P a r t 1 . S l ow F a s h i o n Revo l u t i o n P a r t 1 . S l ow F a s h i o n Revo l u t i o n
S LO W
FA S H I O N B R A N D S
Start-up brands which have a brand ethos and values rooted However, the economic sustainability of slow fashion is
towards sustainability are causing even more competitive questionable. This is because “low speed and small quantity
disruption within the industry. These innovative and future production cannot compete with companies based of
thinking brands act as challenger brands because they are economy of scale strategy, and higher pricing may not generate
C A S E S T U D Y TA L A
often considered “nimbler and more effective at reaching sufficient demand.” (Jung, S & Jin, B. 2016) Suggesting that
younger audiences.” (Business of Fashion, 2018) These brands sustainable start up brands are actually unlikely to be seen as TALA is an on-trend and inclusive sustainable activewear brand. Their mission
are characterised by rapid growth, social media fluency and competitors to established brands but can act as a dominator outlined goals to “help combat the effects of fast fashion, fight for climate action,
e-commerce focused distribution and are able to match the in shift attitudes towards sustainability and put pressure on and continue the trend towards ethical consumerism.” (@wearetala, 2020) Their
zeitgeist more quickly than established brands. Bigger retailers established brands to implement sustainable practices. products are made from materials which have been upcycled from factory cut offs
with embedded values and brand identity have to fully disrupt The economic uncertainty of slow fashion will be discussed and waste. However, TALA claim that they are constantly choosing to “innovating
in order to adapt to the shifts in macro environment, which through this report and will be matched with dominating by researching and trailing the best suitable materials.” (TALA, 2020) Being a start-
are continuously rotating, therefore can cost a lot of money macro trends, which if adapted into a business model, will up brand with a core focus on affordable sustainable products means they are able
and time. Start-up slow fashion brands are able to act more shine a light of reflection on the permanence of the business. to quickly adopt developments in new materials and fabrics without it effecting
flexibly to the macro environment with the use of technology their brand identity or model. Their positive contribution to environmental issue
and loose expectations. has been noticed by media and journalist, and accumulated huge amounts of
press coverage, helping to sustain a drive towards more conscious attitude towards
fashion.
Fig 8. LOOKSLIKEAFILM (2018)
Fig 10. TALA (2019)
16 17
Fig 9. Lamparelli, A (2018)
P a r t 2 . D o m i n a t i n g M a c ro Tre n d s P a r t 2 . D o m i n a t i n g M a c ro Tre n d s
N YST RO M S T H E O RY
In 1928, Nystrom suggested a series of factors that guide and influence the direction of fashion. Brannon, E states that to this
day, these factors are still used as a framework to observes the zeitgeist, which in turn help brands and retailers adapt their
strategies to suit the current environment. (2012) This part if the report investigates dominating stances on society, which are
likely to impact the slow fashion movement, either helping it to grow or causing a wave of uncertainty.
Genz
Activists
Lifelong
learners
Conscious
consumer Luxurians
Dominating Brexit
Dominating Purpose
PA R T 2 .
Social Led
Environ-
Covid-19
G ro u p s
Macros
mentalists
Dominating
Eve nts
Black Dominating
Anxiety
Lives At t i t u d e s
Trends
rebellion
Matter
Protest
Dominating
Tr e n d s
Health
E-commerce a n d We l l -
Dominating ness
Te c h n o l o g i e s
Dominating
Slow
Social living Ideals Rental
Media
Gami- Digital
fication Block- Sub-
AI Fashion
chain scription
We e k s Mini-
based Fash-
malism
ion
AR
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C OV I D 1 9
Fig 13. Akmen (2020)
Fig 12. Bloomberg (2020)
Fig 11. Microban (2020)
On 11th March 2020 the world Health organization officially labelled Covid-19 as a global pandemic. As a result of this,
countries turmoil into a lockdown state rewriting the rules for urban living. This international concern put pressure on
fashion retailers to close their doors and freeze retail experiences as well as supply chain operations, which consequently
has damaged the economy. The crisis is installing anxiety and uncertainty in almost everybody’s minds and it is not
known how the scope of the pandemic will play out. Fashion is particularly vulnerable to the changing environment;
McKinsey have reported that 80 percent of publicly listed fashion companies in Europe and North America will be in
financial distress. (McKinsey, 2020) As lockdowns were imposed, manufacturing in effected countries halted meaning
fashion players and business leaders had to focus on crisis management and contingency planning to shift towards
re-imagining the industry. The global shifts in the economy and consumer behaviour will re-wire the pre-coronavirus
system, therefore Business of Fashion “believe the companies surviving this crisis will make bold and rapid intervention
to stabilise their core business before seeking new markets and strategic opportunities.” (Business of fashion, 2020) The
fashion industry is undergoing dramatic transformation and although the future of the post-pandemic remains tentative,
fashion brands can still seek out opportunities to innovate and transform their strategies.
Fig 14. @zhijunwang (2020)
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CONSCIOUS
MILLENNIAL
Aged between 24-36 years old, millennials are the largest profiling their target consumer and delving deeper into their
generation, standing at 1.8 billion and are set to revolutionise consumer attitudes, opinions and interests.” (Fedder, C. et al.
the economic market. (Daneshkhu, S, 2018) They are an 2018) Slow fashion brands need to unlock the buying attitudes
educated and entrepreneurial cohort has formed a powerful and motivations of those millennials who are determined to
wave of employees, consumers and citizens. “Their spending drive social change and have a conscious attitude towards
power is on the rise and is set to overtake gen X by 2020” environmental issues. Who are these conscious millennials
AT T I T U D E S
Finding from the global Oeko-Tex study that focused
(Daneshkhu, S, 2018) so will be making a large direct and what do slow fashion brands need to do to gain their on millennials, “70 percent of participants indicated that
contribution to the economy. This puts pressure on consumer attention? they are committed to living a sustainable, environmentally
facing businesses to conform to millennials demands and friendly lifestyle.” (Oeko-Tex, 2018) This involved buying into
spending habits. In order to successfully attract a fitting Brand need to avoiding targeting the stereotypical view of brands with sustainable values and supporting businesses which are
target audience for their brand, businesses need to take believed to be acting responsible and authentically
millennial consumers, as Deloitte analysis shows that “not
In a study, conducted by Deliotte, conditions that “46 percent of millennials
the following steps: “one, penetrate the right segment; two, all commonly held beliefs about generations are true and were labelled as responsible go-getters who “plan purchases in advance and give
unlock what motivates that segment to spend money; and clinging to stereotypical beliefs about each age group can quality more importance when buying apparel and fashion products.” (Fedder, C.
three, act on strategies that build loyalty through on-going limit profitability and growth.” (Fedder, C. et al. 2018) Slow et al. 2018) This attitude is likely to encourage conscious millennials shift towards
consumer engagement.” (Finneman, B, et al. 2017) However fashion retailers can crack down an in-depth understanding sustainable brands who value quality over quanity.
the exposure to disruptive forces of globalization, technology, of their target consumers by consumer profiling, which will Millennial are savvy online consumers however still want to benefit from the
innovation and social media can cause a blending of attitudes encourage them to consider developing their own approach
in-store experiences. However, they are after easier and quicker mediums
of purchases which satisfy their fast-paced lifestyles. Data analyst, OPINIONS
and behaviours, making it “important for consumer- to segmenting consumers. Accenture, found that “68 percent of all Millennials demand an
marketing organisations to take a more nuanced approach to integrated, seamless experience regardless of the channel.” Millennials believed that the brands they buy into act as
(Donnelly, C. & Scaff, R. 2019) extensions of themselves and can reflect their own identity.
Therefore, matching the values of millennials is essential to guiding
them to purchase into a new product.
Schumacher explains that the experience economy is growing, and people
are buying into experience that create long-lasting memories.” (Schumacher,
M 2020) Hedonism and exploration is sought after by millennial consumers who
believe “consumption can be defined by enjoyment, joy, and dynamic community
I N T E R E STS affiliation.” (Schumacher, M. 2020)
Products with no apparent purpose or value don’t bode well with millennials.
“Nearly two thirds of consumers are ‘belief driven’ buyers who will
They are seeking out brands that are contributing
choose to switch, avoid or boycott brands based on the political and
positively to societal causes. Forbes state that millennials
social issues they care about.” (Scott, R. et al. 2020)
social awareness stems from their Internet and social media
infused upbringing. “79 percent of millennials appreciate
companies that care about their effect on society and believe that
corporate social responsibility is key to alleviating poverty and improving
life outcomes.” (Cheng, M. 2019) Creating a positive buzz amongst
millennials can strength brands adoption to market.
Social media is an influential factor in the path to purchase for millennials. Platforms
such as YouTube and Instagram are popular amongst this age range and Forbes
have reported that “57 percent of millennials discover fashion trends on social
media.” (Loeb, W. 2020) Not only that, but this population are also spending
more time online communicating with friend, family and brands. This
is creating new opportunities to engage with consumers as “people
spend their money where they spend their time, and more and
more people are spending their time in digital eco-systems.”
(Amjad, M & Josephs, R. 2020) Therefore optimising
the use of digital content can increase interest with
millennials and be a new medium to generate
revenue.
22 23
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H E A LT H A N D
WELLNESS
Healthy lifestyle habits are topical mega trend amongst global consumers identifying health with mental wellbeing,
the consumers of today as concerns over obesity, food the prospect of commercialising concepts that endorse
sensitivities and different types of diseases continue to the principles of spiritual and body balance will become
rise. However according to Euromonitor International a more appealing.” (Euromonitor International, 2020) This
more holistic approach to wellness is being adopted, which establishes that consumers are easily persuaded by the latest
encompasses spiritual and mental wellbeing alongside and revolutionising products and services that suggest they
physical health. (2020) As urbanisation spreads across the provide the answer to improving their mental and physical
globe and workplaces intensify, people are busier and more wellbeing. Slow fashion has the potential to deliver a mindful
mentally engaged than ever before. Many are felling stressed and holistic fashion which emphasis phycological wellness
and stretched in this modern world. Mintel has reported through the use of conscious consumption. Delivering trends
that 50% of UK consumers go to a fitness facility to relieve at a slow pace and giving them time to be fully digested by
stress. (Mintel, 2019) This entails a wider lifestyle shift and consumers may help relieve stress and anxiety among trend
evolving attitudes towards healthcare, nutrition, beauty, demanding consumers who feel the need to buy into the fast
physical activity and overall self-improvement. “65% of fads.
“ The prospect of
commercialising
concepts that
endorse the principles
Fig 17. Salem, O (2018)
of spiritual and body
Due to current disruption from covid-19, millennials spending is set to halter as they enter financial uncertainty. “Consumer
pessimism about the economy is widespread, with 75 percent of shoppers in the US and Europe believing that their financial
situation will be negatively impacted.” (Business of Fashion, 2020) Therefore their spending habits are due to change, inevitably balance will become
impacting the fashion industry. Slow fashion brands may benefit and retain loyalty from this social group, because of their
appraisal responses to brands incorporating more corporate social responsibility surrounding the affects covid-19 is having
”
on different areas of the supply chain and communities. Cracking the millennial sustainability gap is a major commercial
more appealing.
opportunity waiting to be exploited by new slow fashion brands. Brands and retailers are right to assume that sustainability
will be the next major battlefields where they will compete for millennial spend. Fig 18. Portraitphotography (2020)
Euromonitor International (2020)
24 25P a r t 2 . D o m i n a t i n g M a c ro Tre n d s P a r t 2 . D o m i n a t i n g M a c ro Tre n d s
D O M I N AT I N G T E C H N O LO G I E S
“ 88% of UK Generation Z say they
would prefer brand experiences
delivered by blending digital and
physical channels.
Amjad, M & Joseph, R (2019) ”
The democratisation of online shopping is radically an integrated way with cutting edge consumer engagement.
transforming the customer journey and changing consumer (McKinsey, 2020) Kathryn Bishop, Deputy foresight editor at
dynamics states (Hawkins, A & Scott, R. 2020) The lines LS:N Global argues this and emphasis that “brands striving
between e-commerce, entertainment and socialising are to be sustainable need to re-think social platforms.”(Bishop,
blurring as Generation Z comes of age, highlighting new K. 2020) Social media platforms have seen pockets of
ways to shop that are powered by curation, connection and momentum and have delivered much-needed solutions for
co-creation. some brands and retailers during the pandemic. But bishop
Social distancing has highlighted the importance of digital believes “if your brand is all about encouraging people to take
channels among all business, however the fashion industry a more considered approach to the products they buy, the
reliance’s on elevated digital content has accelerated faster styles they select and the materials used, does it make sense to
than anticipated. Pioneering new ways to engage with exist and engage in a space that’s leaning so heavily towards
consumers digitally, now that lockdowns have put a stop to incessant newness and impulsive purchasing?” (Bishop, K.
retail experiences, is the only way to preserve the relationships 2020) Therefore, in summary, brands need to utilise new
built with consumers. Using physical experiential retail to technologies and escalated digitalisation in favour of their Fig 19. Mannell, G (2019) Fig 20. Mannell, G (2019)
create enriched e-commerce experiences, innovative customer values and ensure they align with their purpose.
engagement on digital platforms such as Instagram, twitter
and WeChat has seen consumers increasingly engaged with
brands and embraced a solution for shopping, entertainment
and communication. The Business of Fashion explains that
strong players in the fashion industry who are taking on
digital escalation are staying ahead of this shift. However,
it is evident the digital channels can be less profitable than
physical retailers so McKinsey emphasis that brands will
need to establish a model which prioritise digital growth in 26 27P a r t 2 . D o m i n a t i n g M a c ro Tre n d s P a r t 2 . D o m i n a t i n g M a c ro Tre n d s
S LO W L I V I N G
“ Being a minimalist
d o e s n ' t m e a n yo u ' l l
The biggest dominating factor affecting slow fashion antipathy towards waste-producing business models and
right now is the rise in slow living otherwise referred to as heighten expectations for purpose-driven, sustainable action.
minimalism. Online retail has created a fixation on convince Dr Schumacher stresses this with his belief that isolation
and immediacy, but some fashion brands have rejected these
demands and taken a more considered and slower approach.
has driven positive aspect to consumerism. He believes that
“quality is given priority over quantity, and self-reflection n eve r b u y a ny t h i n g
This matches the ideologies of slow living, a mega trend comes before new experiences. Shopping is no longer a
manifesting it-self in a range of social phenomena. The so- pastime and every purchase is carefully thought through,
called ‘wellness revolution’, for example, places emphasis on while possession is seen as a burden and status symbols are a
bodily well-being and is linked to the increasing popularity thing of the past.” (Schumacher, M. 2020)
of ‘slow’ practices such as yoga and meditation (Parkins, W The coronavirus crisis has presented the fashion industry with
and Craig, G. 2006) Care, attention and mindfulness are
terms associated with this trend, This has also powered the
a chance to reset and completely reshape the industry’s values
chain. However, Business of Fashion argue that “some experts
a g a i n . I t m e a n s yo u ' l l
community in the neighborhood trend, which focuses on predict that consumer sentiment may never recover to pre-
sustained growth and utilization of local resources and skills 2020 levels as anti-consumerism and economic fallout cast
to fuel the economy. Minimalist activists Joshua Millburn a shadow over global markets.” (Business of Fashion, 2020)
1”
and Ryan Nicodemus discuss the impact social media has Therefore this anti-consumerism trend can have damaging
had in installing ideologies into society about consumption
and happiness in their documentary, ‘A documentary about
effect on the economy if not handled sufficiently by fashion
retailers, resulting in a decline in capitalism and lack of d o s o w i t h i nte nt i o n .
important things.’ They believe that advertising and social economic growth making it difficult for some retailers to stay
media have created a disillusioned culture, which has wired in business. Brands must remember that that as economies Millburn and Nicodemus (2015)
society to believe that the consumption of new products will change, “the physical landscape will transform to match it.
lead to greater happiness, self-affiliation and social inclusion. It’s necessary to create new products and services that allow
However, the consumers goods sector has become an object for slower, sustained consumption.” (Smith, J & Firth, P. 2018)
of fashion ability and trends are in constant rotation, so
consumers are never truly satisfied. This lack of satisfaction
has built an unsustainable emperor of businesses trying to
fuel consumer’s satisfaction but causing detrimental effects on
the environment and society whilst doing so. The conscious
consumer is recognizing this and taking an anti-consumerist
approach. Millburn and Nicodemus describe this attitude as
“being a minimalist, where every purchase brings joy and is
justified to add value to your life.” (Millburn, J & Nicodemus,
R. 2015) Slow Fashion has taken on the responsibility to
enforce minimalistic values in the fashion industry such as
rejecting the 52-week seasons of the year implemented by fast
fashion retailers.
The pandemic has given consumers time to reevaluate lifestyle
choices, materialism and consumption of fashion goods being
considered as unnecessary. This has been reflected by a lull
in sales and “a reported 5 to 20 percent decline in online
sales across Europe and the UK.” (Business of Fashion. 2020)
Although anti consumerism and the economic fallout walk Fig 21. Aiayu (2020)
hand in hand, the pandemic may have accelerated mindful
consumption and the shifting consumer mindset on themes
such as ‘sustainability first’ and ‘getting woke’ hence growing
28 29P a r t 3 . D e t ox i f y i n g t h e S u p p l y C h a i n P a r t 3 . D e t ox i f y i n g t h e S u p p l y C h a i n
Slow fashion starts with the detoxification of the current
supply chain practises and creating an environmentally
conscious production process, which reduces amounts of
waste and resource consumption. Jung and Jin state that
“slow fashion is a broader concept that encompasses caring
for the producers and local communities for sustainable life,
connoting history for a sustainable perceived value of the
product, seeking diversity whilst maximising product lifespan
and efficiency for a sustainable environment” (Jung, S and
VA L U E T O T H E S O C I E T Y
Jin, B. 2014). Clinton and Whisnant capture this in their
new business model for creating and delivering value which
requires moving beyond product modification but to the
reshaping the process to generate sustainability and financial
performance.
Re nta l
Closed loop
B
Detoxifying
U
PA R T 3 .
S
S h a re d
IN
E c o n o my
E
S
Re cyc l e d
S
M ate r i a l s
M
P ro d u ct a s
the Supply
O
Digital a service
D
P
Experiences
R
E
L
O
D
Experience
U
E c o n o my
C
Chain
T
P
Pe e r to p e e r
R
O
Tr a n s p a r e n c y
C
Experiental
E
Lo c a l i s at i o n Reta i l
S
S
Codes of Conduct
C i rc u l a r
Supply Chain certifications I n n ovat i ve E c o n o my
M ate r i a l s
re n ewa b l e e n e rg y s o u rc e s
E nt h i c a l P ra ct i c e s C o nte nt
P rov i d i n g
re s p o n s i b l e u s e of re s o u rc e s D i ffe re ntate d
USP
VA L U E T O T H E B U S I N E S S
Adaptation of Clinton, L & Whisnant, R Innovation Framework (2014)
30 31P a r t 3 . D e t ox i f y i n g t h e S u p p l y C h a i n P a r t 3 . D e t ox i f y i n g t h e S u p p l y C h a i n
L E G A L I S AT I O N S T R A N S PA R E N C Y
Fig 23. Fashion Revolutions (2013)
Generally speaking, large business exerts an enormous amount
of influence on society and the environment, therefore it
doesn’t come as a surprise that consumers are asking how,
what and who made their clothes. Business of Fashion recently
wrote, “Fashion companies must come to terms with the fact
that a more distrusting consumer expects full transparency
across the value chain... consumers have become more active
in scrutinizing the brands they do business with.” (Business of
Fashion, 2018) Quite often brands are sharing information on
business values and positive progress without actually sharing
honest systematic challenges they face and the effort to protect
human rights and the environment. This can come across as
green washing. Fashion Revolution state that “transparency
is more than just sharing good work that brands are doing.
Transparency must be a public disclosure of credible and
comprehensive and comparable data and information about
the fashion supply chain, business practices and the impact
of these on workers, communities and the environment.”
(Fashion Revolution, 2020) Equipping consumers with
Fig 22. Fashion Revolutions (2013)
more and better-quality information about the social and
environmental impact of the clothes they buy can encourage
McKinsey reported, “Sustainable fashion is becoming part of Core guidelines to sustain environmentally conscious better decision making. This authenticity in transparency
a broader movement, driven, in part, by the concern, activism, production of fashion products was driven by the UN builds consumer trust but a lack of transparency can damage
and rising spending power of Generation Z consumers. At sustainability guidelines set in 2015. These incorporated brands’ reputation.
the same time, political action has changed the framework factors such as climate action, responsible consumption and In Fashion Revolutions, Fashion Transparency Report 2020,
within which apparel companies operate, and regulations production, reduced inequalities and sustained cities and H&M preformed the best, reaching a score of 73%. They
have become stricter.” (McKinsey & Company, 2019) communities. Companies that incorporate a sustainable were able to reach this score by sharing knowledge about
Legislations have been a key driving force in innovating this development goal into the purpose of their brand are likely to the business and disclosing which material the products are
sector of the industry as well as codes of conduct (sometimes be credited for authenticity and ethnical trading. Pressure to made from and which countries it was produced in and
referred to as ‘soft laws’) and voluntary agreements, frequently recognise their responsibility to end poverty, improve health which suppliers and factories partnered with them to make
drawn up by the companies themselves and are passed onto and education, reduce inequality whilst tackling climate it. This has been achieved through a series of technological
through the initiative, with information provided around the
contracted factories and auditors. Issues such as “Low wages change has spurred growth in the adoption of purposeful developments such a Block chain and AI. Using the H&M
benefits of sustainable components compared to conventional
and excessive working hours are endemic and persistent brand missions. It’s common for brand to form partnerships app on your phone, you can use the scan feature to scan the
materials.” (Buller, A & Scott, S, 2020) Big brand like these
issues in global supply chains, which leave full-time workers with organisations or sign agreements to legalisations which price tag, which will bring you to the product page, revealing
who are taking more responsibility to engage the consumer
and their families, trapped in a cycle of poverty.” (Behind see them incorporating ethnical practises and leading to the the product background. Bringing consumers closer to the
within the supply chain will have a competitive advantage
the Barcode, 2019) As a result, legal boundaries and pressure detoxification of the supply chain. supply chain with innovations like these will establish different
over those who don’t and will lead the revolution to radical
for the consumers, non-government organizations and the dimensions of the product, which will allow the consumer to
transparency.
media have acted as important mechanisms for controlling evaluate value for money and product authenticity. Following
The slow fashion business model tackles concern over fair
exploitation. “Examples include the NGO campaigns in this, Nike recently launched a new online program that
labor, sustainable use of resources and the environment,
1990s that exposed labour abuses in the supply chains of makes it easier to search, shop and learn about sustainable
therefore the pressure on brands to be more transparent will
major brands such as Nike and Gap, leading eventually to the credentials of its products. Nike believe “As well as being
hopefully call for more collective industry action to positively
introduction of codes of conduct setting out minimum levels empowered to shop more sustainably, Nike hopes customers
disrupt the production chain like the brands discussed.
of workers’ rights and legislation driven change.” (Fletcher, will also develop eco-conscious awareness more generally
K. 2008) 32 33P a r t 3 . D e t ox i f y i n g t h e S u p p l y C h a i n P a r t 3 . D e t ox i f y i n g t h e S u p p l y C h a i n
N E W M AT E R I A L S
Fig 25. BigCartel. (N/A)
The fashion industry is facing a critical moment in tackling However, it is argued sustainable production can become
the challenges of climate change, environmental pollution, unsustainable when garments made of eco-materials are
and responsible use of resources. Fast fashion business worn only a few times and discarded quickly. Making
models have extenuated the industry’s production of 10% products out of organic cotton for them to be mass consumed
of global carbon dioxide emissions every year as well as an and disregarded quickly, contradicts the sustainable factors.
estimated use of 1.5 trillion litres of water annually according Expediting technological innovation in recycling will be
to Intergovernmental Panel of Climate change. (Davis, N. paramount to fulfil the new demand and creating the desires
2020) The fashion industry’s consumption of vast quantities of a circular economy. Materials like Circulose are favourable
of raw materials, production of hazardous levels of pollution, in creating closed loop system because they can be recycled
creation of a weighty carbon footprint, and alarming levels over and over again. Moreover, it is fair to suggest that
of waste all pose particular problems to environmental consumers also have a responsibility to make conscious and
sustainability. sustainable decisions when consuming new products. Fashion
The slow fashion movement “naturally promote sustainability Revolution believe consumers play the biggest role in tackling
through more ethical sourcing and production techniques as overconsumption and therefore need to “buy responsibly and
well as by using organic, recycled, or more durable materials.” with integrity, investing in pieces that will last and, wherever
(Brewer. M.K. 2019) Organic systems are currently changing possible, where you can confirm their provenance.” (Taylor,
the way we procure raw materials making opportunities to I. 2019) Consequently, accountability for responsible use of
reduce the impact on the environment. Organic cotton resources lies in both the consumer and the brands hands.
is popular among sustainable brands “because it reduced
pesticide, fertilizer and water use whilst creating better
working conditions for farmers.” (Fletcher, K. 2008)
Organic farming can be used to lead social change, however
accelerated investment in research and development is
driving innovations bio-based fabrics which are focused on
improving the environment and have created new commercial
opportunities. “45 percent of apparel companies surveyed by
McKinsey are looking to integrate more innovative bio-based
materials and over 67 percent of sourcing executives state that
the use of innovative sustainable materials will be important Fig 24. Thegoodtrade (N/A) Fig 26. Circulose (2020)
for their company.” (Business of fashion & McKinsey, 2020)
Brands, even in fast fashion, experimenting with fabric
alternatives such as Piñatex, a leather which is made of
pineapple leaf fibres. Other innovative materials include
Circulose, a fibre made by extracting the cotton from recycled
clothes and turning it into a reusable martials. E-textiles and
closed loop recycling are helping to form a circular economy,
a “alternative to a traditional linear economy, designed to
keep products and materials in use for longer.” (Macarthur,
E. 2019) 34 35P a r t 4 . C o nve r g i n g M e g a Tre n d s P a r t 4 . C o nve r g i n g M e g a Tre n d s
A sustainable solution to
competitive advantage
Converging
PA R T 4 .
Mega
Trends.
The goal for most fashion brands, whether they are sustainable or not, is to maintain a competitive position in the market and
generate profit. In order to do so, brand need to recognised shifts in consumer attitudes and behaviours, along with changes
in the macro environment and react to them with innovative strategies. This section of the report examines the convergence
of macro trends discussed in Part 2 and how they are reshaping the industry and helping to influence a more sustainable
approach to fashion and consumption. The current humanitarian and financial crisis have caused major disruption to the
fashion industry leaving business exposed to a vulnerable future. However, Buchanan, Senior futures analyst for The Future
Lab, believes “Consumers will be encouraged to get out and spend to stimulate the economy post-pandemic.” (Buchanan, V.
2020) So, a big question bouncing around is, how can retailers stimulate meaningful consumption whilst contributing to the
economy. Business are having to adapt and innovate to a pandemic proof structure and incorporate sustainable values to gain
a prosperous position in the market.
36 37P a r t 4 . C o nve r g i n g M e g a Tre n d s P a r t 4 . C o nve r g i n g M e g a Tre n d s
P u r p o s e - Le d B ra n d s
“Increasing recognition of Corporate Social Responsibility as “brand purpose can help continually re-orientate the core
a core business activity raised as social responsibility became capabilities to remain relevant.” (Scott, R et al. 2020) Fast
a growing area of concern in increasing globalised supply fashion brands have been incorporating CSR strategies into
chains.” (Perry, P & Towers, N. 2013) As discussed in part 3, their brand purpose as they support functional and emotional
many mainstream brands based their values of comprehensive benefits which helps them to stand out. According to Thind,
codes of conducts which are built on notions of purpose a “clear brand purpose is a self-certification of its values and
and sustainability and proactive responses to societies enduring narrative which aims to provide a consistent message
challenges. These codes of conduct are used to implement for the consumers across various touchpoints.” (Thind, R.
CSR and create a more sophisticated business model. This 2018) Therefore, as consumers become more knowledgeable
way business can reconnect company’s success with social about their choice and demand better reasons to buy, brand
progress and shared value. According to M, Porter and M. purpose supported by a good strategy is likely to propel the
Kramer “creating shared value is believed to a new way to business into commercial success.
achieve economic success,” (2019) which could prove to be
the next major transformation for slow fashion business who
constantly face economic uncertainty (Discussed in part 1).
However, because the macro environment is always changing
Fig 27. Nike (2020)
CAS E ST U DY N I K E
Nike is a company taking the lead to bring business and society back together. The reported
purpose is “to unite the world through sport to help create a health planet, active communities
and an equal playing field for all.” (Nike: FY19 Nike, Inc. Impact report. 2019) They aim to
achieve this with various goals such as attracting and developing an increasingly diverse and
engaged workforce who engage with their communities and support their giving of expertise,
time and money. Nike have a deep-rooted legacy as committed partners in the communities
where they live and work. According to their 2019 impact report “Nike invested $81.9 million
to drive impact in communities around the world.” (Nike: FY19 Nike, Inc. Impact report.
2019) This aimed to get kids moving, training coaches and bringing people together to
experience the power of play and sport through their global “made to play” commitment.
Fig 28. Nike (2019)
38 39P a r t 4 . C o nve r g i n g M e g a Tre n d s Infatuation with constant P a r t 4 . C o nve r g i n g M e g a Tre n d s
newness has resulted in
blurred boundaries of
To offer a meaningful differentiation. Patagonia
experience brands have distinguished a Patagonia is ahead of
need to be real whilst position divergent to their the game when it comes
maintaining the consumers by rejecting to engaging consumers.
flexibility and agility newness and more They take responsibility
to stay authentic consumption by utilising in linking sports with
and genuine to a repair, shar and recycle activism by involving
their brand DNA. strategy. “Worn Wear’ their employees in
Patagonia aim to be is Patagonia’s secondary sport communities to
brand which allows
DIFFERENT
reflected the values drive positive social
from which the brand consumers to recycle their and environmental
was built on, which work products so they can
ALIVE
change. The aim to
REAL
is to build the best be resold. The aim is to use the resources such
products causing now cut down consumption as their voice, business
unnecessary harm and get more use out of and community to do
in their business stuff we already own. The something about climate
activities. also help you to repair crisis.
and care for you existing
products using the site
IFIXIT.
Fig 29. Patagonia (2020)
Customers, employees, and a new generation of young people to develop new skills and knowledge—”such as a far deeper
are asking business to step up and broaden their constricted appreciation of societal needs and a greater understanding
concept of capitalism which has prevented brands from of the true bases of company productivity.” (Porter, M &
understanding that societies needs are growing. According Kramer, M. 2019) It is possible to suggest that the future of
to Mintel, “Consumers are in search of a more mindful fashion brands is more wholesome as it has been reported that
approach to their spending, they also desire something that the “brands that will thrive in this decade will take a more
is authentic and unique to them.” (Mintel, 2020) The ‘less- realistic, honest and iterative approach to development.”
COMPREHENSIBLE
talk-more-action attitude resonating amongst the younger is (Scott, R et al. 2020) Fashion brands who are putting in
adapting how brands interact with consumers and igniting effort to create shared value by reconceiving the intersection
action towards issue such as, mental health, environmental between society and corporate performance provide greater This related to having
consciousness or community betterment. LS; N global chances to legitimize business. This will drive the next wave distinct qualities and clear
emphasis that “the value a brand brings to the consumer, of innovation and productivity growth in the global economy Patagonia have pledges propositions relating to
C O N S I ST E N T
emotionally and functionally, will be the future measure of as brand begin to recognise that their offering must match the 1% of sales to the what the target consumer
R E LV E N T
success.” (Scott, R et al. 2020) Hence why brands who use current global mood. Patagonia is a successfully establish slow They remain relevant
preservation and perceives as value.
their business to share modest values and support bigger moving fashion brand with encompasses minimalist views by following activist
restoration of the natural Patagonia have targeted
issues can establish more meaningful relationships with their and sustainable strategies to build brand purpose. movements, engaging
environment since 1985. vocal, conscious and
consumers and increase brand loyalty. with consumer’s using
With sustainability at active consumers so have
social platforms and
their core, they have never matched the position and
However, many fashion brands remained trapped in an creating movement for
failed to understand the propositions by operating
outdate approach to value creation and it is believed that change.
necessity of protecting a business model which is
the fashion industry can view “value creation narrowly, the natural environment driven by implementing
optimizing only short-term financial performance,” (Porter, and run this deep within social and environmental
M & Kramer, M. 2019) by focusing on the immediate future all areas of their business change.
instead of thinking ahead. To implement purpose into an model.
established business effectively require leaders and managers 40 41
Adaptation of Thinds, R Brand Purpose Model (2018)You can also read
