A JOURNEY THROUGH THE POETRY OF TIME - ENCOUNTER ON THE LOVERS' BRIDGE - Van Cleef & Arpels
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
A JOURNEY THROUGH T H E P O E T RY O F T I M E E N CO U N T E R O N T H E LO V E R S’ B R I D G E In February 2022, Van Cleef & Arpels will be celebrating some of its emblematic sources of inspiration at a watchmaking event open to the general public in Singapore. Pieces from the Maison’s patrimonial collection and contemporary creations will be revealed in an immersive environment that recreates the charm of Paris. Alongside the Jewelry and High Jewelry collections, Van Cleef & Arpels’ watches take center stage in four of its cherished universes: love stories – notably with the Pont des Amoureux collection –, ballerinas and fairies, Poetic Astronomy and Enchanting Nature. Each creation relates an instant of grace and enchantment, expressing the Poetry of Time unique to the Maison. PRACTICAL INFORMATION: A journey through the Poetry of Time: event open to the public from February 12 to 20, 2022 (by reservation) – Sand Expo Hall B - Marina Bay Sands, Singapore
T H E P O E T RY O F T I M E Ever faithful to a poetic view of life, Van Cleef & Arpels instills a distinctive dimension into the art of watchmaking: that of dreams and emotions. A blend of inventiveness and fantasy, its creations interpret the measurement of time as an invitation to imagine, wander and revel in happiness. The Maison draws from its history and emblematic sources of inspiration to depict the poetry of each instant. New tales of love and luck join pieces evoking Van Cleef & Arpels’ heritage. Fairies and ballerinas tick away the hours, while the rhythm of nature meets that of the cosmos. In line with the various watch collections, each timepiece relates a moment of grace and enchantment. 2
LOV E S TO R I E S Advert for “la boutique”, 1958 Romance à Paris bracelet, 2009 Van Cleef & Arpels Archives Van Cleef & Arpels Collection © Publicis Conseil Born out of the marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, the Maison has been celebrating love stories since its earliest creations. Like a sign of destiny, the first piece listed in the sales book in 1906 was a heart set with diamonds. Today, this founding theme continues to suffuse the Maison’s creations with poetry and enchantment. From High Jewelry to Watchmaking, they express every nuance of feeling and all the emotion of shared moments. 3
Pont des Amoureux collection The watches of the Pont des Amoureux collection celebrate love and the intensity of longed-for reunions. United by tender feelings, a young woman and a young man decide to meet on a Paris bridge. Indicating the hours and minutes respectively thanks to a retrograde movement, they move towards each other to exchange a kiss at midday and midnight. To relive the poetry of that moment at any time, an animation-on-demand module enables the romantic scene to be replayed at will. 4
Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux watch Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Jour watch - 38mm white gold case - 38mm rose gold case - White gold bezel and crown, round diamonds - Rose gold bezel and crown, round diamonds - White gold dial, grisaille enamel - White gold and rose gold dial, colored grisaille enamel - Shiny blue interchangeable alligator strap, white gold - Shiny dark purple interchangeable alligator strap, rose gold interchangeable pin buckle, round diamonds interchangeable pin buckle, round diamonds - Self-winding mechanical movement equipped with a retrograde - Self-winding mechanical movement equipped with a retrograde and on-demand animation module developed exclusively for and on-demand animation module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 36-hour power reserve Van Cleef & Arpels, 36-hour power reserve - Numbered piece - Numbered piece Grisaille enamel work on the dial Positioning the lovers-shaped hands 5
Faithful to the feelings that bind them together, the two lovers meet throughout the year. Four jewelry watches reunite them against a backdrop whose colors and motifs vary with the seasons. In spring, the city blossoms with pink flowers, while in summer butterflies flutter through the streets. In autumn, leaves dance around the loved-ones, before snowflakes cover the roofs in winter. Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Printemps watch Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Été watch - 38mm rose gold case - 38mm white gold case, round diamonds - Rose gold bezel and crown, round diamonds - White gold bezel and crown, round diamonds - Rose gold and yellow gold dial, colored grisaille enamel, - Yellow gold dial, colored grisaille enamel, miniature painting miniature painting - Rose gold bracelet, round pink, mauve and purple sapphires, - White gold bracelet, round yellow sapphires, round spessartite round diamonds, rose gold clasp garnets, round diamonds, white gold clasp - Self-winding mechanical movement equipped with a retrograde - Self-winding mechanical movement equipped with a retrograde and on-demand animation module developed exclusively for and on-demand animation module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 36-hour power reserve Van Cleef & Arpels, 36-hour power reserve - Numbered piece - Numbered piece 6
Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Automne watch Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Hiver watch - 38mm yellow gold case, round diamonds - 38mm white gold case, round diamonds - Yellow gold bezel and crown, round diamonds - White gold bezel and crown, round diamonds - Yellow gold dial, colored grisaille enamel, - White gold dial, colored grisaille enamel, miniature painting miniature painting - Yellow gold bracelet, round yellow sapphires, round - White gold bracelet, round sapphires, spessartite garnets, round diamonds, yellow gold clasp round diamonds, white gold clasp - Self-winding mechanical movement equipped with a - Self-winding mechanical movement equipped with a retrograde and on-demand animation module developed retrograde and on-demand animation module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 36-hour power reserve exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 36-hour power reserve - Numbered piece - Numbered piece Miniature painting decor on the dial Setting the sapphires on the bracelet 7
The Maison also gives lovers the possibility of experiencing the Poetry of Time together, with a masculine watch: the Midnight Pont des Amoureux. The men’s and women’s models echo one another, enabling hearts to beat in unison. On this piece, the reunion scene – featuring revisited details – is enclosed inside a 42mm case. The scenery in grisaille enamel has been reworked to bring out an urban feel: the roofs, chimneys and paving stones of Paris form the backdrop for this encounter, while the Moon and star- studded sky lend a gentle touch to the cityscape. The characters – slightly larger than on the feminine versions – move across a bridge in white gold, notable for its geometric lines. On the back of the case, an engraved scene traces a nocturnal view of the city. Back of the case Midnight Pont des Amoureux watch - 42mm white gold case - White gold bezel and crown - White gold dial, grisaille enamel - Black alligator strap, white gold folding buckle - Self-winding mechanical movement equipped with a retrograde and on-demand animation module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 36-hour power reserve - Numbered piece 8
Aïda & Radamès secret watch Love lends a romantic enthusiasm to a set of High Jewelry watches, which recount the stories of mythical couples from literature, mythology and opera. They include this very precious secret watch, which reinterprets the story of Radamès – a young Egyptian commander – who falls in love with Aïda, an Ethiopian princess. On the bracelet, slender curves in mirror-polished gold echo the warm sand dunes that border the Nile in Egypt. The river is represented by blue sapphires of assorted hues, which flow around the wrist in thin bands. A lotus seems to float at the center of the piece: composed of colored gems, ornamental stones and diamonds, it is crowned with a Madagascan sapphire weighing 5.93 carats. The Maison’s High Jewelry expertise combines with watchmaking savoir- faire to reveal a sliding dial beneath the central motif, adorned with fine stone marquetry. Lapis lazuli and turquoise form interlaced fish motifs. Set with diamonds, one of them indicates midday like a precious rendezvous. Aïda & Radamès secret watch - White gold, rose gold - One cushion-cut pink sapphire of 5.93 carats (Madagascar), sapphires, turquoise, lapis lazuli, diamonds - Quartz movement - Unique piece 9
Amytis & Nabuchodonosor secret watch This piece evokes colonnades, pools of clear water and luxuriant gardens, in homage to the mythic Hanging Gardens of Babylon. According to legend, this token of love – considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world – was a present from King Nebuchadnezzar to his wife, Queen Amytis. Cones of turquoise surrounded by buff-topped emeralds are arranged in a row, on a structure made up of columns of rose gold, white gold and baguette-cut diamonds. In the center of the piece is a baguette-cut diamond surround: at its heart, a 6.75-carat Burmese sapphire in a sugarloaf cut cleverly conceals a diamond-paved dial. The central motif can be raised at will, majestically revealing the time. Amytis & Nabuchodonosor secret watch - White gold, rose gold, one sugar loaf sapphire of 6.75 carats (Burma), emeralds, turquoise, diamonds - Quartz movement - Unique piece 10
Tristan & Iseult secret watch This watch brings together vine leaves and a rose bush in homage to the courtly love story of Tristan and Iseult. A cushion-cut sapphire weighing 5.59 carats seems to bloom like a rose at the center of a diamond leaf, its intense color evoking Iseult’s fresh complexion. It is accompanied by a pear-shaped diamond, in a precious tête-à-tête: weighing 1.13 carats, the stone is set on a leaf of blue and pink sapphires representing the young knight Tristan. Thanks to a secret mechanism, the center of the leaf can be raised to reveal a dial and an inscription: “Ni vous sans moi ni moi sans vous” (Neither you without me, nor me without you). A signature of the Van Cleef & Arpels style, the asymmetry of shapes and colors instills the piece with subtle dynamism, echoing the two lovers’ tumultuous union. Tristan & Iseult secret watch - White gold, one cushion-cut pink sapphire of 5.59 carats (Madagascar), one pear-shaped EVVS2 diamond of 1.13 carats, blue and pink sapphires, white mother-of-pearl, diamonds - Quartz movement - Unique piece 11
FA I R I E S A N D B A L L E R I N A S Product-card of a Dancer clip, 1946 Fée rayonnante clip Van Cleef & Arpels Archives Van Cleef & Arpels Signature High Jewelry Collections Symbols of joy and hope, fairies and ballerinas form an emblematic Van Cleef & Arpels tradition, which began in the early 1940s. Born out of Louis Arpels’ passion for the world of dance, the first dancer clips soon won over collectors with their elegant poses and beautiful costumes. Created during the same period, the fairy clips are recognizable for their ethereal winged silhouettes, sometimes complemented by a magic wand. Today, these feminine figures also adorn the Maison’s watches: like muses, they accompany the passage of time on creations that combine craft skills and watchmaking savoir-faire. 12
Lady Arpels Ballerines Musicales watches As an expression of its attachment to the world of dance, Van Cleef & Arpels has designed the three Lady Arpels Ballerines Musicales watches: a blend of music and movement in a genuine experience that is both acoustic and visual. The creations are inspired by the ballet Jewels, created by George Balanchine in 1967, following his encounter with Claude Arpels. The work by the American choreographer – and founder of the New York City Ballet – is made up of three chapters, each focusing on a precious stone to the music of one composer: Gabriel Fauré for Emeralds, Igor Stravinsky for Rubies and Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky for Diamonds. Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Émeraude watch - 44.5mm white gold case, round diamonds - White gold bezel and crown, round emerald, round diamonds - White gold dial, round diamonds, miniature painting - Shiny green interchangeable alligator strap, white gold interchangeable folding buckle, round diamonds - Manual-winding mechanical movement with retrograde time indication, on-demand musical animation, 52-hour power reserve - Numbered piece 13
Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Rubis watch Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant watch - 44.5mm white gold case, round diamonds - 44.5mm white gold case, round diamonds - White gold bezel and crown, round ruby, round diamonds - White gold bezel and crown, round diamonds - White gold dial, round diamonds, miniature painting - White gold dial, round diamonds, miniature painting - Shiny red interchangeable alligator strap, white gold - Shiny grey interchangeable alligator strap, white gold interchangeable folding buckle, round diamonds interchangeable folding buckle, round diamonds - Manual-winding mechanical movement with retrograde time - Manual-winding mechanical movement with retrograde indication, on-demand musical animation, time indication, on-demand musical animation, 52-hour power reserve 52-hour power reserve - Numbered piece - Numbered piece Echoing this triptych, the Lady Arpels Ballerines Musicales watches reinterpret the depth effect of a real theater stage: sculpted draperies, engraved and painted by hand, respectively highlight shades of green, red and tones ranging from blue to white. On demand, the dial comes to life: the curtain sweeps aside to reveal five ballerinas, their tutus and colors evoking different schools of dance – French, American and Russian – and the gems that inspired George Balanchine. Music rings out to accompany the scene. Thanks to a technical achievement, the melodies of the different pieces are played by two instruments with crystalline tones: a music box and a carillon. The innovative combination and harmonization of these elements enable the ear to easily pick out the musical themes of the ballet. 14
In keeping with one of the Maison’s cherished traditions, the watches also include a retrograde function for telling the time. At the top of the dial, a star – a tribute to “étoile”, the French term for a principal dancer – indicates the passage of time on a scale graduated with the 12 hours. From top to bottom and left to right: Drapes of the Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Émeraude Realization of the ballerinas in miniature painting on the Rubis disk Engraving of the drapes on the Diamants disk Hand engraving of a ballerina on the back of the case 15
Lady Féerie watch Like a protective muse and symbol of femininity, a fairy in a sapphire and diamond gown watches over the Poetry of Time. Her wings – a combination of grisaille enamel and turquoise plique-à-jour enamel – echo the nuances of the starry sky in guilloché mother-of-pearl and diamonds. Sitting lightly on a cloud, she indicates the minutes with her magic wand thanks to a retrograde movement. The Moon harbors the passing hours in a window of mother-of-pearl, haloed by a gentle glow. On the back of the watch, the visible oscillating weight is engraved with a full Moon in a star-studded sky. 2021 2021 Prix de la Complication Prix de la Complication pour Dame pour Dame Back of the case 2021 2021 Ladies’ Complication Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize Watch Prize Lady Féerie watch - 33mm white gold, round diamonds - White gold bezel and crown, round diamonds - White gold dial, round sapphires, round and rose-cut diamonds, white mother-of-pearl, grisaille on plique-à-jour enamel, miniature painting 2021 - Shiny white interchangeable2021 alligator strap, white gold interchangeable pin buckle, Prix de la Complication pour Dame pour Dame round diamonds Prix de la Complication - Self-winding mechanical movement with a jumping hours and retrograde minutes module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 36-hour power reserve - Numbered piece 2021 2021 Ladies’ Complication Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize Watch Prize ROUGE: pantone 485 C, CMJN: 0 - 100 - 100 - 0 JAUNE: pantone 114 C, CMJN: 0 - 0 - 70 - 0 16
CO U T U R E I N S P I R AT I O N S Product-card of a Flower secret watch, 1951 Macaron Hexagon Ludo secret watch, 1941 Van Cleef & Arpels Archives Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Ever since its foundation in 1906 on Paris’ Place Vendôme, Van Cleef & Arpels has drawn inspiration from the world of couture, like a homage to its place of birth. Over the years, the Maison has reinterpreted the fluidity of fabric in gold and precious materials, giving rise to creations of timeless elegance. Revisiting the style of the Ludo bracelets or presenting unique long necklaces hiding secret dials, Van Cleef & Arpels blends flowing lines and refined materials to bring new delight to the art of telling the time. 17
Ludo secret watch Reinterpreting the Ludo bracelet, the Ludo Secret watch reveals a luminous combinations of yellow gold, chrysoprase, emeralds and sapphires. In an interplay of colors and materials, precious and hard stones come together within a symmetrical rose motif. The petals – depicted by gems of different sizes – blossom around a generous hard stone cabochon, haloed with diamonds. Recalling the outline of a belt, the extremity of the bracelet is made up of a gem-set motif that echoes the rose. In keeping with the Maison’s tradition of transformable pieces, these creations can be worn in a variety of ways: the motif with the dial can be replaced on the bracelet by an hexagonal mesh buckle set with precious stones, to create a new piece of jewelry. The rose can also be transformed into a clip or a pendant, threaded onto a long chain. Ludo secret watch - Yellow gold, sapphires, emeralds, chrysoprase, white mother-of-pearl, diamonds - Quartz movement 18
Pompon Margaret transformable long necklace watch Made up of rows of cultured pearls, jewelry motifs and a fluid tassel, this long necklace reveals a 6.19-carat Sri Lankan sapphire at its heart, in a well- proportioned cushion cut. Its remarkably intense color contrasts with the whiteness of the pearls and establishes a dialogue with the sapphire details and lapis lazuli beads present on the piece. Hidden beneath the central motif, a secret dial is revealed by delicately pressing one of the diamonds. Extremely transformable, this creation is simultaneously unique and graced with a multiplicity of functions: the secret watch and tassel can be removed to vary the length of the long necklace, which can be shortened even further thanks to removable strands of pearls. The latter metamorphose into two bracelets, while the secret watch can be attached to a third bracelet in diamonds, sapphires and cultured pearls. Pompon Margaret transformable long necklace watch - White gold, one cushion-cut sapphire of 6.19 carats (Sri Lanka), sapphires, lapis lazuli, white cultured pearls, white mother-of-pearl, diamonds, - Quartz movement 19
Pompon Margaret transformable long necklace watch - White gold, one cushion-cut sapphire of 6.19 carats (Sri Lanka), sapphires, lapis lazuli, white cultured pearls, white mother-of-pearl, diamonds, - Quartz movement 20
Pompon Gaia transformable long necklace watch With their dazzling colors, these creations are characterized by an interplay of materials and contrasts. The palette of blues provided by lapis lazuli is enriched by the greens of emeralds and amazonite on this long necklace, which harbors a secret watch. On the top of the tassel, a set motif slides to reveal a dial in mother-of-pearl. Pompon Gaia transformable long necklace watch - Yellow gold, white gold, sapphires, emeralds, lapis lazuli, amazonite, white cultured pearls, white mother-of-pearl, diamonds - Quartz movement 21
POETIC ASTRONOMY Product-card of a Meteor secret watch, 1955 Zodiac set leo clip Van Cleef & Arpels Archives Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry collections Since 1906, the wonders of the heavenly vault have inspired creations that elicit dreams and contemplation. After finding an echo throughout the years in the Maison’s Jewelry and High Jewelry pieces, the theme of the cosmos has been extended to Watchmaking with Poetic Astronomy. From the starry night to the constellations of the Zodiac, the trajectories of the Sun and Moon and the ballet of the planets, the timepieces combine the poetry of the celestial bodies and the measurement of time to evoke a unique emotion with every second. 22
Lady Arpels Planétarium watch In 2018, Van Cleef & Arpels has revisited its Midnight Planétarium watch to provide a feminine interpretation. Featuring both refined aesthetics and an automatic movement developed exclusively for the Maison, the Lady Arpels Planétarium watch depicts the Sun and its closest planets: Mercury, Venus and Earth – accompanied by its satellite, the Moon. Each heavenly body moves at its actual speed, orbiting the dial in 88 days for Mercury, 224 days for Venus and 365 days for Earth. In a major innovation, the Moon also rotates around the Earth on this piece, completing its orbit in 29.5 days and bringing the dial to life with its daily dance. Lady Arpels Planétarium watch - 38mm case in white gold set with diamonds - White gold bezel and crown, diamonds - Dial: aventurine, Sun in pink gold, shooting star in rhodium-plated gold, Mercury in pink mother-of-pearl, Venus in green enamel, Earth in turquoise, Moon in diamond - Case back: white gold, pink gold, aventurine, sapphire glass, calendar, oscillating weight in white gold and black PVD, Moon in white gold with serti neige style diamonds, Earth in turquoise and ornamental stones echoing the planets. - Self-winding mechanical movement featuring a Planétarium module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 40-hour power reserve. - Numbered edition 23
The choice of planets, imbued with feminine symbolism in the case of Venus and the Moon, is accompanied by the careful adaptation of the timepiece’s dimensions to a woman’s wrist. The Lady Arpels case – 38mm in diameter and set with diamonds on the sides of the case and bezel – houses a movement redesigned for this smaller size, with an exclusive module based on an idea from Christiaan van der Klaauw. The dial’s refined design combines the spectacle of the planets with that of a shooting star in rhodium-plated gold, indicating the time with poetic grace. On the back of the watch, two apertures display the day, month and year in the midst of enchanting decoration. From top to bottom and left to right: Polishing and sizing the turquoise representing the Earth Assembling the Sun and Mercury discs on the movement Assembling the aventurine discs on the movement Positioning the turquoise at the center of the oscillating mass 24
Midnight and Lady Arpels Zodiaque Lumineux Poetic Astronomy offers an invitation to live in harmony with the rhythm of the cosmos. In 2019, it was enriched with a new set of twelve feminine Lady Arpels Zodiaque Lumineux models, which join the masculine Midnight Zodiaque Lumineux watches introduced at the Salon de la Haute Horlogerie (now called Watches & Wonders), in 2018. These watchmaking creations recreate the sparkle of the stars with an exclusive light-on-demand module, first developed in 2016 for the Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch. This automatic mechanical movement now illuminates the twelve signs of the Western Zodiac. The astrological theme has been a dear one for the Maison ever since the first lucky medals created in the 1950s. Here, it comes to life in twelve luminous dials: Aries, Taurus, Gemini, Cancer, Leo, Virgo, Libra, Scorpio, Sagittarius, Capricorn, Aquarius and Pisces. Midnight Zodiaque Lumineux Capricorni (Capricorn) watch Lady Arpels Zodiaque Lumineux Arietis (Aries) watch - 42mm case in white gold - 38mm case in white gold set with diamonds - White gold bezel and crown - White gold bezel and crown, diamonds - Dial: blue glitter enamel, sculpted white gold, enamel tracing, - Dial: glitter blue enamel, enamel tracing, translucent blue enamel translucent blue enamel beads beads. yellow gold, yellow sapphires, blue sapphire, spessartite - Bracelet in black alligator, folding buckle in white gold garnets, yellow enamel with golden foil. - Self-winding mechanical movement with a light-on-demand - Glitter blue alligator strap with a white gold pin buckle set with module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, diamonds 40-hour power reserve - Self-winding mechanical movement with a light on demand - Numbered edition module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 40-hour power reserve - Numbered edition 25
The Midnight Zodiaque Lumineux watches’ spellbinding illumination has its origins in a phenomenon known as piezoelectricity. An object of study since the 18th century, it refers to the capacity of certain materials to accumulate an electric charge when subjected to mechanical constraints. Developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, the module incorporates a piezoceramic blade whose vibration – under the effect of the watch’s movement – enables electrical energy to be generated mechanically. This energy is then used to supply from four to six LEDs: at the press of a button, they backlight the dial’s translucent enamel beads for about three seconds. Midnight Zodiaque Lumineux Aquarii (Aquarius) watch Lady Arpels Zodiaque Lumineux Piscium (Pisces) watch - 42mm case in white gold - 38mm case in white gold set with diamonds, - White gold bezel and crown - White gold bezel and crown, diamonds - Dial: blue glitter enamel, sculpted white gold, enamel - Dial: glitter blue enamel, enamel tracing, translucent blue tracing, translucent blue enamel beads enamel beads. yellow gold, yellow sapphires, blue sapphire, - Bracelet in black alligator, folding buckle in white gold spessartite garnets, yellow enamel with golden foil. - Self-winding mechanical movement with a light-on-demand - Glitter blue alligator strap with a white gold pin buckle set module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, with diamonds 40-hour power reserve - Self-winding mechanical movement with a light on demand - Numbered edition module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 40-hour power reserve - Numbered edition 26
The dials brought to life by this technical feat are decorated at Van Cleef & Arpels’ Meyrin workshops in Switzerland. Intricately and individually sculpted in white gold, the Zodiac signs on the masculine watches stand out against a background in blue pailleté enamel, evoking the heavenly vault. On the feminine watches, these symbolic figures are adorned with white or yellow gold, precious stones and enamel. The depths of the cosmos are suggested by an intense glittery effect on the blue, nuanced by an interplay of light and shade. The four elements are depicted by different tones of stones and enamel: green for earth, orange for fire and gradations of blue and violet for the air and water signs. Within each constellation, several points are represented by delicate enamel beads: shaped by hand and mounted on the dial, some of them light up like genuine stars. From left to right: Positioning the cam generating the vibrations Positioning the glitters on the blue enamel background with a brush 27
E N C H A N T I N G N AT U R E Hawaï ring with a secret watch, 1944 Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Product-card of a Butterfly clip, 1937 Flying butterfly Between the Finger Ring Van Cleef & Arpels Archives Van Cleef & Arpels Signature collections A cherished inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels ever since its foundation, nature breathes poetry and vitality into its creations. Enthralled by the constant metamorphoses of fauna and flora, the Maison transcribes spring in full bloom, the luxuriance of gardens or the beating of a butterfly’s wings. Closely linked to the passage of time, this theme is explored in Van Cleef & Arpels’ watchmaking collections through Enchanting Nature, a haven of beauty and harmony. 28
Charms Extraordinaires Nature Féerique Ever inspired by the beauty of nature, Van Cleef & Arpels pays tribute to its enchantment through creations imbued with a delicate poetry. This year, the Extraordinary Charms collection welcomes two new timepieces, each telling a wonderful farytale. A graceful fairy seems to flutter through the dials, meeting tender animals. On the Charms Coccinelle Féerique watch, bathed in the colors of dusk – thanks to miniature painting work on the dial’s mother-of-pearl – the feminine figure encounters a ladybug, perched on a green leaf. On the Charms Papillon Féerique watch, the fairy stands above a pond, greeting a colorful butterfly. As a final touch to each piece, a ladybug or butterfly charm echoes the dial, its precious stones illuminating the passing hours. Charms Coccinelle Féerique watch Charms Papillon Féerique watch - 32mm rose gold case - 38mm white gold case - Rose gold bezel and crown, round pink sapphires, round diamonds - White gold bezel and crown, round sapphires, round diamonds - Rose gold rotating charm, round buff-topped rubies - Rose and white gold rotating charm, marquise-cut diamond, - Dial: white and yellow gold, cabochonné enamel, miniature round sapphires painting, pearly white mother-of-pearl, mother-of-pearl glitters, - Dial: white and rose gold, black aventurine, plique-à-jour enamel, round yellow sapphires and round diamonds paillonné enamel, miniature painting, white mother-of-pearl, - Interchangeable shiny lie de vin or shiny white alligator straps, mother-of-pearl glitters, round buff-topped sapphires, marquise- interchangeable rose gold pin buckle, round diamonds cut, rose-cut and round diamonds - Quartz movement - Interchangeable shiny lapis or shiny white alligator straps, - Numbered edition interchangeable white gold pin buckle, round diamonds - Quartz movement - Nmbered edition 29
On the dials, the art of enamel, miniature painting, stone setting and gold engraving come together to give rise to highly complex miniature tableaux, imbued with a striking relief. Several emblematic techniques are here assembled, cabochonné enamel gives the ladybug a life-like volume, while miniature painting and white- mother-of-pearl glitters breathes movement to the leaves. The Sun sheds its light on the scene thanks to its yellow sapphires. The diaphanous wings of the butterfly come to life thanks to plique-à-jour enamel, subtly adorned with miniature painting. Paillonné enamel recreates the ripples of water under the fairy’s feet, while the flower lilies are colored with miniature painting and set with blue sapphires. The combination of crafts and mastery of Van Cleef & Arpels watchmaking workshops endow the pieces with the wonders of nature, like an invitation to dream. From left to right and top to bottom: Application of enamel miniature painting on the ladybug Assembling the white gold fairy set with round and rose-cut diamonds on the dial Application of plique-à-jour enamel on the butterfly wing Assembling the white gold butterfly wing with plique-à-jour enamel on the dial 30
Perles de Glace Rose watch When the white season awakens the imagination of Van Cleef & Arpels, jewels are dressed in soft colored harmonies evoking snow-covered landscapes. Precious snowflakes dialogue with openwork ribbons and icy corollas to compose a hymn to the splendor of winter. Adorned with the pink hues of a sunrise over a sleeping nature, the Perles de Glace Rose watch combines two sources of inspiration dear to the Maison: nature and couture. The bracelet’s rows of pearls culminate on the wrist with snowflake motifs in re-cut rubies, along with marquise-cut and round pink sapphires of different tones. Together, they bring majesty to a dial entirely paved with diamonds. When opened, the bracelet reveals all the flexibility of its structure; when closed, the watch clasp forms a precious ruby and diamond snowflake motif reminiscent of those framing the dial. Perles de Glace Rose watch - Rose gold - Rubies, pink sapphires, white cultured pearls, diamonds - Quartz movement - Unique piece 31
The work of jewelers is combined with the know-how of gem-setters and the expertise of lapidaries to give life to the Perles de Glace Rose watch. Subtle details constellate the piece, testifying to the particular care taken by Van Cleef & Arpels in its creations. The fully articulated structure of the bracelet is finely enhanced with gradient pink sapphires. Light passes between the stones to accentuate the effect of lightness of the ensemble. A row of diamonds set on the side of the case completes the creation. Carefully selected according to the Maison’s high standards, the stones are distinguished by their bright colors and the quality of their materials. The rubies have been meticulously cut to perfectly match the motifs of the watch, while the pearls give the creation great softness, their orient evoking the mildness of sunny winter mornings. From top to bottom and left to right: Jewelry work, assembling the watch bracelet Jewelry work, assembling the pearls on the watch bracelet 32
Dahlia secrète watch In Van Cleef & Arpels’ garden, the Dahlia Secret High Jewelry watch unfolds its corolla of yellow gold and diamonds upon a mount adorned with precious leaves. Thanks to a system of subtle articulations, the petals quiver when touched, mimicking the sway of nature in the breeze. Each one is sculpted in volume, hand-worked and mirror polished to bring out intense reflections. The petals each envelop a closed-set diamond, illuminated by the 1.59-carat central diamond. Next to the sparkling gem, three round yellow sapphires indicate the position of the secret mechanism: slight pressure on this discreet fastener reveals the dial, adorned with spessartite garnets. The result of highly complex jewelry savoir-faire, as well as the expertise of the Ateliers Horlogers de Genève to assemble the watch movement, this jewel that tells the time required more than 1,100 hours of work. Dahlia secrète watch - Yellow gold, rose gold, white gold - One round EVVS2 diamond of 1.59 carats, yellow sapphires, tsavortie garnets, diamonds - Quartz movement - Unique piece 33
VA N C L E E F & A R P E L S S I N C E 1906 1926 Renée Puissant, daughter and niece of the Maison’s founders, becomes Creative Director of Van Cleef & Arpels. 1927 Creation of the Chinese Magician pocket watch and its double retrograde movement. 1933 Inspired by Florence Jay Gould, Charles Arpels creates the Minaudière, a sophisticated Watch, 1921 vanity case intended for elegant ladies. Van Cleef & Arpels Collection - Van Cleef & Arpels patents its Mystery Set technique. 1934 1895 Creation of the Ludo jewels. Marriage of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef in Paris. 1935 Creation of a watch on a double snake chain, entirely in yellow gold, which will be called 1906 Alfred Van Cleef and his brother-in- the Cadenas watch in 1938. law Charles Arpels open a boutique at 22 Place Vendôme. Charles’s brothers Julien and Louis join them in 1908 and 1912 respectively. 1937 Van Cleef & Arpels takes part in the International Exhibition of Art and Technology - First watches and first animal jewelry and lucky in Modern Life, in Paris. charms to be sold by the Maison. 1918 Lapel watches are in fashion, worn on 1938 Creation of the transformable Passe- Partout jewel. jacket lapels or at the belt. 1920 Beginning of the fashion for jewelry and vanity cases inspired by India, Egypt, China, Japan and Persia. - During the 1920s and 1930s, orders are produced for the Maharajas of Hyderabad, Indore, Kapurthala, Nawanagar and Nepal. 1925 Van Cleef & Arpels takes part in the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris, and is awarded the Grand Prix notably for its Interwined Flowers, White and Red Roses bracelet, set with rubies, emeralds and diamonds. Table clock, 1934 Van Cleef & Arpels Collection 34
1954 Inauguration of “la boutique” at 22 Place Vendôme: the Bestiaire humoristique will be one of its emblematic collections. 1956 H.S.H. Prince Rainier III offers a Van Cleef & Arpels pearl and diamond set to his wife Grace Kelly as a wedding present. The following year, Van Cleef & Arpels becomes “Official Supplier to the Principality of Monaco”. Place Vendôme charm, 1959 Van Cleef & Arpels Collection 1967 The New York premiere of Jewels, a ballet by George Balanchine created after his encounter with Claude Arpels, to music by Fauré, Stravinsky and Tchaikovsky. - For the coronation of Farah Pahlavi, the 1939 Van Cleef & Arpels settles in New York’s Empress of Iran, the Maison produces the crown, Rockefeller Center, before opening a boutique at necklace and earrings, along with jewelry sets for 744 Fifth Avenue in 1942. members of the imperial family. - On the occasion of the marriage of Princess 1968 Fawzia of Egypt to Mohammed Reza Pahlavi, the future Shah of Iran, Van Cleef & Arpels creates Creation of the first Alhambra long jewelry sets for the bride and her mother, Queen necklace. Nazli of Egypt. 1971 Jacques Arpels acquires the Thibaw, 1941 Creation of the first ballerina clips and a Burmese ruby weighing 26.13 carats, and the the Little Winged Fairy clip, later called Spirit of Walska Briolette, a yellow diamond weighing beauty. 96.62 carats, later mounted on a transformable Bird clip. 1949 1972 Pierre Arpels designs an exceptionally thin watch with central attachments referred to The “Boutique des Heures,” dedicated as “rollers”. Produced from 1950 onwards, it is to watches, opens on Place Vendôme. known as the PA.49 watch. 1950 Creation of the Zip necklace transformable into a bracelet, following an idea probably suggested by the Duchess of Windsor in the late 1930s. Paris sparrow clip, 1965 Cadenas watch, 1972 Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Van Cleef & Arpels Collection 35
2014 Launch of the Midnight Planétarium watch. 2016 “Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art and Science of Gems” exhibition at the ArtScience Museum in Singapore. - Creation of the Extraordinary Object the Automate Fée Ondine. Pétales de vœux bracelet Le Secret collections, 2017 - Opening in Paris of the exhibition “L’Arche de Noé racontée par Van Cleef & Arpels”, staged by Robert Wilson, before its presentation throughout the world. 1992 In Paris, the Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode et du Costume, organizes a 2018 “Van Cleef & Arpels: When Elegance Van Cleef & Arpels retrospective. Meets Art” exhibition at the Today Art Museum in Beijing. 2006 Launch of the Poetic Complications watchmaking collection, with the Lady Arpels 2020 “Gems” exhibition at the Muséum Centenaire watch. National d’Histoire Naturelle in Paris. 2009 “The Spirit of Beauty” exhibition at the 2021 “Florae, Mika Ninagawa” exhibition at Mori Arts Center in Tokyo. the Hôtel d’Évreux in Paris. 2010 Launch of the Pont des Amoureux Poetic Complication watch. 2011 “Set in Style” exhibition at the Cooper- Hewitt National Design Museum in New York. - After Paris and New York, Van Cleef & Arpels inaugurates its third emblematic boutique in Hong Kong, Landmark Prince’s. - The Maison creates the Océan diadem, transformable into a necklace, offered to H.S.H. Princess Charlene by H.S.H. Prince Albert of Monaco on the occasion of their wedding. 2012 “Timeless Beauty” exhibition at the MOCA, Museum of Contemporary Art in Shanghai. - “Van Cleef & Arpels, l’Art de la Haute Joaillerie” exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. - Van Cleef & Arpels begins its partnership with the French dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied, founder of the L.A. Dance Project company. This encounter results in the trilogy Gems, made up of Reflections (2013), Hearts & Alleanza necklace Romeo & Juliet collection, 2019 Arrows (2014) and On the Other Side (2016). 36
Van Cleef & Arpels’ awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2005 Ladies’ Watch Prize for the Secret Pavée watch 2010 Ladies’ Watch Prize for the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux watch 2011 Jewelry and Artistic Crafts Watch Prize for the Lady Arpels Polar Landscapes Seal Decor watch 2013 Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize for the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée watch 2017 Ladies’ High-Mech Watch Prize for the Lady Arpels Papillon Automate watch 2018 Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize for the Lady Arpels Planétarium watch and Jewelry Watch Prize for the Secret de Coccinelle High Jewelry watch 2020 Jewelry Watch Prize for the Frivole Secrète watch and Artistic Crafts Watch Prize for the Lady Arpels Soleil Féerique watch 2021 Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize for the Lady Féerie watch Lady Arpels Secret de Coccinelle Papillon Automate watch High Jewelry watch 37
PRESSLOUNGE Discover the press kit and photos at the following adress: https://presslounge.vancleefarpels.com/ encounterPontdesAmoureux/ If you do not yet have an account, please subscribe online. #VanCleefArpels #PoetryofTime #VCAlovestories @vancleefarpels « BALANCHINE » is a trademark of the The George Balanchine Trust, which has no link with Van Cleef & Arpels or its products. © Van Cleef & Arpels SA, December 2021.
You can also read