You, me and Utah - Canuckiwi
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MOOR,
PLEASE
An idyllic canal boat
trip across England P14
AUGUST 13-14, 2016
You, me
and Utah
An epic family road trip from
the desert to the snow. P16
INSIDE
CHOCOLATE BOXES: A WHOLE NEW
SIX OF THE BEST WAY TO SAVOUR
SWISS HOTELS P8 NEW GUINEA P12 INSIDE
Dream. Research. Plan. At traveller.com.au you’ll find the inspiration to make your next holiday a reality.
16 Traveller WEEKEND EDITION AUGUST 13-14, 2016 The Sydney Morning
M Herald WEEKEND EDITION AUGUST 13-14, 2016 Traveller 17
Cover story
UNITED
STATES In 2015, Zion National Park recorded 3.6 million visitors
and numbers are predicted to be up 30 per cent for 2016.
Salt of
Heights of adventure: (Clockwise guests of honour and dodge flying
from main) Walter’s Wiggles trail at pucks. Aspirin and ear plugs are
Zion National Park, Utah; the Utah sold in packs at the game for $3 and
Grizzlies in action; Park City; a it feels unpatriotic to have
canyon at Zion National Park; fire anything less than corn dogs, hot
pits on the Glitretind deck; a rock dogs, super-sized bags of popcorn
climber tries to scale an and nachos drowned under canary
the earth
overhanging sandstone wall; the yellow cheese (utahgrizzlies.com).
Mormon Temple is reflected in the EAT For a more sustaining feed
pool at Temple Square, Salt Lake with the locals and a short walk
City; (bottom) a scenic drive on from Temple Square, Squatters
Byway 12, Utah; the Orange Bubble pub favourites include a turkey
Express at Park City, Utah. mushroom burger, bourbon
Photos: Carol Polich, Josie Vimahi, burgers alongside jambalaya and
iStock; Alamy, Getty Images, Jerry mac and cheese.
From mountains to deserts, Utah is god’s gift to Dodrill, Jason Cameron There’s a string of microbrews
including cask conditioned ales,
lovers of the big outdoors, writes Jane Reddy. the American Wheat Hefeweizen
T
and the Polygamy Porter. I order a
here are many ways to mud. Led by Brigham Young in fondue fireplace with strawberries pitcher of Respect Your Mother
cross the snow covered 1847 of the Church of Jesus Christ and cinnamon pound cake on the Organic Amber and smile at the
Wasatch Mountains of of Latter-day Saints, the side. Justin, bring the sleigh children.
Utah. By skis, in wide 3000-strong faithful journeyed (deervalley.com). Leaving the city the next day we
elegant arcs; by chairlift west from Illinois before settling at WHERE TO STAY For immersion stock up on pastries from the
underneath a gentle snowfall, or by the Valley of the Great Salt Lake in the area’s ski culture the Stein excellent Gourmandise Patisseries
gondola, packed tight, rubbing where Young declared ‘‘This is the Eriksen lodge is relaxed and that’s a locals favourite for
Gore-Tex clad shoulders with place’’. friendly for families. blueberry croissants and
fellow enthusiasts to heights of We don’t have that long for our Named in honour of the alpine raspberry muffins (squatters.com;
3000 metres. road trip, just 10 days. But with a ski racer and Olympic gold gourmandisethebakery.com).
Today, I’m flat on my back, Jeep Patriot in this land of the free, medallist from Norway – Eriksen WHERE TO STAY As the name
strapped into the first-aid sled, an 11 and eight-year-old in the back was also credited with the creation suggests, the imposing 24-floor
eyes to the cloudless sky after an and a gas station at most highway of the freestyle ‘‘aerial’’ – Eriksen Grand America Hotel has museum
inelegant turn on a green run. exits, we’re ready to test the time memorabilia lines the walls of the quality paintings and antiques
The shame. My family, passing in a limits of a ski and hike adventure. lodge, which has also giant beams, including the 1760 French tapestry
chairlift overhead, send cheery In the centennial year of the stone fireplaces and couches that Games in the Countryside made at
salutations mouthing ‘‘R U OK’’ en National Park Service in this state guests are welcome to sink into at the Aubusson Royal Manufactory.
route to a more difficult slope, as of five national parks, six national apres hour. It’s close to the local tram that will
Val of the snow patrol is left to tow monuments and an end-of-season It’s Eriksen branding right down in turn take you close to Temple
me down to the mountain doctor. dump of snow, we have hit nature’s to the lip balm in our suite. We fuel Square. Rooms from $US250 a
She blows hard on her whistle that paydirt, all with a driving distance up with other families on quinoa night (grandamerica.com).
screams ‘‘get outta my way’’ to under 1000 kilometres. porridge, maple glazed sausage
anyone in her path. and elk bacon. Rooms in ski season SALT LAKE CITY TO
The diagnoses – a knee sprain SALT LAKE CITY TO cost from $US550 a night CAPITOL REEF
and bruised ego – are not even in PARK CITY (steineriksen.com).
the ballpark of Val’s litany of NATIONAL PARK
55 kilometres, 40 minutes 350 kilometres, 3 hours and
injuries sustained from an DEER VALLEY TO SALT
otherwise healthful lifestyle in the Park City will be a revelation to 30 minutes
LAKE CITY
place where muscular locals carry anyone who considers resort ‘‘Today you will go to Mars,’’ says a
57 kilometres, 55 minutes
the glow of a life lived far from a towns the exclusive domain of knowing Utahn as we set off on the
desk. snow aficionados, built-out with The state capital with its mountain Interstate 15 for the reef and its
From white mountains to modern condos. The largest ski backdrop is an easy place to 160-kilometre-long warp, the
yawning desert and slot canyons, area in the United States is on the navigate thanks to the gridded, Waterpocket Fold, in the Earth’s
Utah is a state that is god’s gift to doorstep of Salt Lake City Airport; 40-metre-wide streets originally crust that defines it.
lovers of the big outdoors; where, an easy drive into the Wasatch built to allow for the turning of four When the kids start bickering
with a simple change from ski Mountains (with some help from oxen pulling a wagon. We find the over the last piece of the newly
boots to hiking boots, one could be Google maps). state’s most visited attraction, the discovered cotton candy, I
among snow covered mountains Long before the skiers and Latter Day Saints Temple Square, threaten an alien sibling to sit
before lunch and other-worldly boarders came, the region’s silver that covers four hectares. between the two.
sandstone hoodoos at sunset. veins made millionaires of 23 Here we sit and listen to the They laugh in my face. We pass
Adventure is easy and accessible. people (one of them the father of Tabernacle choir rehearsal with tiny towns, each with a large star-
Immersed in landscapes shaped newspaper publisher William the 11,000 pipe organ. It sounds like spangled banner flying proudly
by wind, water and time, super Randolph Hearst). the voice of angels to our untrained and RVs bigger than the homes
highways are an absolute bonus for The rich silver ore and the ear, but not so the choirmaster, they sit next to. There’s Mountime
families and the time-poor on a consequent booms and busts saw who is putting the 300-strong Taxidermy in Lyman and in Scipio
journey of geological time travel of mining finish in the area in the member group through its paces a farmhouse store selling goods
millions of years. early 1980s, but parts of its Anne, Spanish revival and independent boutiques (‘‘mom and pomegranate vinaigrette and wood affair and some argue more true to DON’T MISS An afternoon at the business and the Montage has during the Songs of Levi. ‘‘You have ‘‘from Alaska to Australia’’.
Some may baulk at an 18 or so heritage are well-preserved Victorian buildings, all built after a pop shops’’) and locals are hoping fired pizzas of prosciutto and blood alpine sports with not one imposing and popular family staked its claim as the largest spa to sing this lighter – never, ever Snow-capped mountains of the
hour flight to Salt Lake City from around town. disastrous fire in 1898. At a time the character of the place will orange (thesilverstarcafe.com). snowboarder in sight. resort, the 220-room Montage atop in the state with 29 treatment push sound.’’ morning have given way to rock
Australia just to get to the holiday We spend an afternoon when the population was nearing remain, despite the recent merger WHERE TO STAY Park City Ski credentials aside, this Empire Pass that welcomes rooms, women’s and men’s DON’T MISS Another group with a formations such as The Castle and
starting line, but cry me a river. exploring the genuinely western 10,000, 200 of 350 homes and of the Park City and Canyons Waldorf Astoria at the Canyons evening cowboy Justin, in leather outside guests. We spend an relaxation areas and fitness centre loyal following is the Utah Grizzlies The Flute Wall that could indeed
Modern-day inconveniences town with street names such as businesses burnt including the resorts. Village at the base of Park City chaps and Stetson with horses and afternoon in Daly’s Pub and Rec (montage.com). ice hockey team. The match be from a fantasy novel with its
pale when you are venturing into a Payday and Bonanza, a legacy of grand opera house and 500 people Be sure to stop in at the Park Resort is more than a pretty face, sleigh is making my long-buried sampling the local microbrews like EAT At the charming Fireside against the Tulsa Oilers is nothing spires, turrets and hideouts. It’s a
state Mormon pilgrims pioneered the mining days and the Main were left homeless. City History museum inside the old with its lobby chandeliers made of childhood Disney dreams come Shades of Pale and Park City Dining at the Empire Canyon short of exhilarating with the 40-million-year old snapshot with
with wagons, often in axle-deep Street, with its charming Queen There’s said to be more than 100 City Hall of 1885 Baccarat crystals and stags true. The farmer-insurance Brewery, in between frames on the Lodge where servers dish up Swiss sounds of cracking hockey sticks distinct layers and colours of brick-
(parkcityhistory.org). fashioned from 150-year-old hand- salesman by day tucks heavy four-lane bowling alley beside us. raclette cheese and veal and wild and players’ bodies thudding red stone, gray-green rock and
DON’T MISS Tubing on Gorgoza carved wood. blankets around us before some There’s also shuffleboard, darts mushroom stews from one of five against the rink’s edge. orange-red sandstone once ocean,
Park. An ideal place for effortless Getting from the hotel and onto circle work among fir and aspen and vintage arcade games. While great stone hearths to a convivial We join the locals to stand up for swamp and desert.
snow play while giving your ski legs the slopes, with children in tow, is and the peculiar quiet that snow skiing may be the main game in the queue of guests. the national anthem, applaud the
a rest. There’s seven lanes, all close to effortless with the hotel’s landscapes bring. mountains, spas are also a serious We finish ourselves off at the returned servicemen who are Continued on page 18
served by magic carpet lifts and in dedicated Frostwood Gondola to
between midair maniacal laughter take you to the Canyons village
(it’s that much fun) we take hot base and the start of the runs.
chocolate breaks in the heated
yurt. See gorgoza.com
Helpful staff take you by buggy
on the short ride to the gondola.
TRIP NOTES GETTING THERE
Virgin Australia has daily services
SKIING THERE
Deer Valley & Park City There are
Park City In 2015, operators Vail
Resorts linked Park City and
HIKING THERE
The annual America the Beautiful
between Sydney or Brisbane to Los 800 hectares of skiable terrain, 101 Canyons to create the largest Pass costs $US80 a car and
EAT You’ll need to book to get a Rooms from $US609 a night
Angeles, with non-stop codeshare trails and 21 chairlifts. The Utah resort in the United States. See provides entry to all US National
table at the pumping Riverhorse on (parkcitywaldorfastoria.com,
services on Delta Air lines between TRIP Pass provides access to both parkcitymountain.com. The 2016-17 Parks. A seven-day entrance for
Main for heart-warming choices visitparkcity.com).
Los Angeles and Salt Lake City. See resorts from $US113 a day for Epic Pass offers unlimited access at Bryce and Canyon costs $US30.
including huckleberry mojito and a
MORE virginaustralia.com adults, $US66 for children. See all of Vail Resorts destinations. It See nps.gov.
Rocky Mountain rack of lamb PARK CITY TO DEER INFORMATION Qantas flies daily to LA with visitparkcity.com/international- costs $US809 for adults and
(riverhorsegroup.com). For a VALLEY visitutah.com connections to Salt Lake City with visitors/two-resort-pass, $US419 for children; see Jane Reddy was a guest of the
relaxed brunch or lunch, Silver
Star Cafe’s dishes include organic
2 kilometres, 10 minutes lonelyplanet.com American Airlines. deervalley.com EpicPass.com. Utah Office of Tourism.
spinach with fetta, mushrooms and Deer Valley resort is a skier-only
1 8 Traveller WEEKEND EDITION AUGUST 13-14, 2016 The Sydney Morning Herald
Cover story
UNITED
STATES
From page 17
At the aptly named Goosenecks
Point the otherworldliness is fully
Five must-dos for Utah
revealed as we stare down the red J OIN TH E TRAD ITION
hued canyon 244 metres below. A Most hotels offer the traditional
woman commends our kids for and sickly sweet campfi re
keeping a safe distance from the S mores treat: toasted
edge but still, I can hardly breathe. marshmallow and chocolate
These landscapes are far from sandwiched between two
static; Sulphur Creek, a tributary Graham crackers.
of the Colorado River, continues to
shape the canyon. BOOK AH EAD
DON! T MISS A walk among the Cas Getting onto the slopes can be a
Mulford orchard, one of the largest test for parents and children.
historic orchards in the National The cheery and on time Ski
Park Service with more than Butlers staff deliver gear to the
3000 trees of apple, peach, pear hotel room, adjust fi ttings and
apricot, cherry and plum. When collect everything when you re
the fruit is ready visitors can use done.
the three legged ladders to pick a B ig c ountry: Maj estic roc kf orms tower ov er the highway.
Photo: Getty Images See skibutlers.com
bag for a nominal fee.
EAT Sit under cottonwood trees campground in the park. Sites at signs with fl ashing lights give a G ET YOU R BEARING S
and eat fresh baked pie and the Fruita Campground are party vibe on a road built in parts Zion National Park s excellent
cinnamon rolls from the Gifford $US20 a night. from grit alone, and with side roads shuttle service departs every
Homestead, one of the few carrying names like Hell s 15 minutes from Springdale in
remaining buildings from the CAPITOL REEF Backbone. During the Depression, summer and stops at nine
historic Fruita district established NATIONAL PARK TO President Franklin Roosevelt different jumping off points
in 1880 by a group of Mormons led created the Civilian Conservation including Angel s Landing and
by Nels Johnson. BRYCE CANYON Corps to provide work to young Zion Lodge.
The homestead includes a NATIONAL PARK unmarried men. The CCP blasted Melting moments: (From top)
seven room house, barn and 2. 5 hours, 18 6 kilometres through this slickrock terrain TAKE YOU R TIM E S! mores treat; the hooded
smokehouse and doubles as a We drive in a golden afternoon removing debris by hand. The Capitol Reef, Bryce and c hairlif ts c arry skiers in c omf ort
museum. Its spartan nature recalls light along scenic byway 12, At the Head of the Rocks we Zion visitors centres all Photos: L au r i Patter son, Getty
the rural Utah farm homes of the climbing more than 3000 metres stare across the Escalante contain excellent topographical Images
early 1900s. on switchbacks, passing alpine Canyons to plateaus and canyons models and depictions of
WHERE TO STAY We re pushing forest and patches of snow on one beyond. The road dubbed the creatures such as Tyrone S ET TH E ALARM CLOCK
on to Bryce Canyon. The 7 1 site side and pink and russet stone Million Dollar Highway has a (Tylosaurus proriger) the Get the jump on queues and
Fruita Campground is full with cathedrals on the other. The kids, matching million dollar outlook. 15 metre lizard that roamed the crowds on trails and lookouts by
RVs and the handsome Airstream on nature watch, spot mule deer, Bryce area. starting early.
campers. It s the only developed jackrabbit and squirrels. The deer C on t i n u ed on page 2 0
SEEMS LIKE IT S NOT A SMALL WORLD AFTER ALL
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1 8 Traveller WEEKEND EDITION AUGUST 13-14, 2016 The Sydney Morning Herald
Cover story
UNITED
STATES
From page 17
At the aptly named Goosenecks
Point the otherworldliness is fully
Five must-dos for Utah
revealed as we stare down the red J OIN TH E TRAD ITION
hued canyon 244 metres below. A Most hotels offer the traditional
woman commends our kids for and sickly sweet campfi re
keeping a safe distance from the S mores treat: toasted
edge but still, I can hardly breathe. marshmallow and chocolate
These landscapes are far from sandwiched between two
static; Sulphur Creek, a tributary Graham crackers.
of the Colorado River, continues to
shape the canyon. BOOK AH EAD
DON! T MISS A walk among the Cas Getting onto the slopes can be a
Mulford orchard, one of the largest test for parents and children.
historic orchards in the National The cheery and on time Ski
Park Service with more than Butlers staff deliver gear to the
3000 trees of apple, peach, pear hotel room, adjust fi ttings and
apricot, cherry and plum. When collect everything when you re
the fruit is ready visitors can use done.
the three legged ladders to pick a B ig c ountry: Maj estic roc kf orms tower ov er the highway.
Photo: Getty Images See skibutlers.com
bag for a nominal fee.
EAT Sit under cottonwood trees campground in the park. Sites at signs with fl ashing lights give a G ET YOU R BEARING S
and eat fresh baked pie and the Fruita Campground are party vibe on a road built in parts Zion National Park s excellent
cinnamon rolls from the Gifford $US20 a night. from grit alone, and with side roads shuttle service departs every
Homestead, one of the few carrying names like Hell s 15 minutes from Springdale in
remaining buildings from the CAPITOL REEF Backbone. During the Depression, summer and stops at nine
historic Fruita district established NATIONAL PARK TO President Franklin Roosevelt different jumping off points
in 1880 by a group of Mormons led created the Civilian Conservation including Angel s Landing and
by Nels Johnson. BRYCE CANYON Corps to provide work to young Zion Lodge.
The homestead includes a NATIONAL PARK unmarried men. The CCP blasted Melting moments: (From top)
seven room house, barn and 2. 5 hours, 18 6 kilometres through this slickrock terrain TAKE YOU R TIM E S! mores treat; the hooded
smokehouse and doubles as a We drive in a golden afternoon removing debris by hand. The Capitol Reef, Bryce and c hairlif ts c arry skiers in c omf ort
museum. Its spartan nature recalls light along scenic byway 12, At the Head of the Rocks we Zion visitors centres all Photos: L au r i Patter son, Getty
the rural Utah farm homes of the climbing more than 3000 metres stare across the Escalante contain excellent topographical Images
early 1900s. on switchbacks, passing alpine Canyons to plateaus and canyons models and depictions of
WHERE TO STAY We re pushing forest and patches of snow on one beyond. The road dubbed the creatures such as Tyrone S ET TH E ALARM CLOCK
on to Bryce Canyon. The 7 1 site side and pink and russet stone Million Dollar Highway has a (Tylosaurus proriger) the Get the jump on queues and
Fruita Campground is full with cathedrals on the other. The kids, matching million dollar outlook. 15 metre lizard that roamed the crowds on trails and lookouts by
RVs and the handsome Airstream on nature watch, spot mule deer, Bryce area. starting early.
campers. It s the only developed jackrabbit and squirrels. The deer C on t i n u ed on page 2 0
SEEMS LIKE IT S NOT A SMALL WORLD AFTER ALL
.')/0$!""#,%1$!"%23
!""#$%"&$'%($)*+*,-*
!
"### * !"#$%&'!("$)*$+,,",$-+('"$.&$
/!"*,$&*$"0.#+$1&."($*)21./3$
/)21./"")*2$4$5&#"6
!""#$%#&'($#)%*+,-,.+
)H**&#'1$*%'C3D;3
20 Traveller WEEKEND EDITION AUGUST 13-14, 2016 The Sydney Morning Herald
Cover story
UNITED
STATES
From page 18
DON! T MISS It seems improper to be
rewarded so readily at Bryce s Sunset Point,
a vista of hoodoos, statuesque limestone
pillars sculpted by rain and time into
bulbous spires, all just a 10 minute drive
from the hotel and a two minute walk from
the carpark. Shouldn t this take more toil?
While the family descends the steep path
INFO
to walk among them from Sunset Point on
the Navajo Loop into the main
amphitheatre, I opt for some true blue sky
thinking along the paved pathway in the
cold thin air.
SESSIONS
It s here I read about the Trickster, or the
Coyote God Sinawava. Paiute Indians, who
inhabited this region for hundreds of years
before the arrival of European Americans,
state that the hoodoos are ancient Legend
People turned into stone by Sinawava. As
voices echo up from the chamber of hoodoos
I can imagine the Trickster at work.
EAT Energy for the hikes ahead is at Rubys
Inn. Established in 1916 and still run by the
same family, rustler s ribs, battered green
bean fries and cowboy steak with a sauce of
portobello mushroom and gorgonzola Great outdoors: (From top) On the road with
cheese are on the menu (rubysinn.com). Zion Jeep Tours; skiing at Park City, Utah;
WHERE TO STAY Best Western Plus Bryce hikers on Angel! s Landing in Zion National
Canyon Grand Hotel is the newest Park. Photos: Getty Images, Dan Campbell
accommodation close to the hugely popular
Bryce Canyon and is just off Scenic Byway DON! T MISS A thrilling ride outside the
12, and next to the national park. Rooms are park for effortless views atop mesas
comfortable and the buffet breakfast is isolated fl at topped hills with steep sides
included but be prepared to queue at peak in an open back Jeep with Zion Outback
YOU’RE INVITED
times. Rooms from $US89 a night Safaris. Climbing 500 metres, we pass
(brycecanyongrand.com). Hurricane Mesa, an Air Force testing
facility said to have an ejection seat from a
BRYCE CANYON TO ZION supersonic sled, before heading through
TO DISCOVER NATIONAL PARK Rockville.
Here, residents are passionate about the
1 hour and 20 minutes, 115 kilometres
protection of the night sky from light
THE WORLD OF SCENIC When artist and topographer Frederick S.
Dellenbaugh exhibited his paintings
pollution with a 60 watt limit on each fi tting
which is a far cry from the glow of Las Vegas
depicting the Zion area at the 1904 St Louis 250 kilometres over the border in Nevada.
World Fair, spectators did not believe such a We cross the historic Grafton Bridge for
Join us at a free information SYDNEY place existed. But it was not olde worlde sunset over Grafton Mesa where Red Bull
session where we’ll share Wednesday 31 August clickbait. In 2015 the park recorded Rampage mountain bikers hurl themselves
the wonders of Europe River Four Points by Sheraton 3.6 million visitors and numbers are off the edge and we get a sunset view that
161 Sussex Street predicted to be up by 30 per cent for 2016. could be a Dellenbaugh painting
Cruising, South East Asia River Today, at the end of spring break the queues (zionjeeptours.com, redbull.com).
Cruising, Africa, South America, of RVs are long to see Zion s sculpted EAT Springdale at the park s entrance is full
PENRITH sandstone canyons following the path of the with locally owned eateries. For excellent
Canada, Alaska and USA and Monday 5 September Virgin River along the canyon fl oor. coffee go to Cafe Soleil at the park entrance.
introduce you to The World’s Panthers Event Centre Walks with sweet names and terrifying It s worth a 20 minute wait at Oscar s for
First Discovery Yacht - Scenic 123 Mulgoa Road drops Angel s Landing looking down generous servings of burgers and Mexican
Eclipse. Special offers for 450 metres for starters are not for the (oscarscafe.com) or the Spotted Dog with
MANLY faint of heart, while on the Emerald Pools regional choices of Rocky Mountain Red
attendees available on the day. Trail we walk alongside the elderly and Trout or Wild Game Meatloaf, elk buffalo
Tuesday 27 September children in wheelchairs on the wide and fl at and beef, wrapped in bacon with pan gravy
Novotel path. (fl anigans.com).
55 North Steyne Road Near the Temple of Sinawava, rock WHERE TO STAY The family owned
climbers are mere specks. The blockbuster Cliffrose Lodge and Gardens within the Zion
WOLLONGONG walk into the Narrows Canyon is closed as Canyon, a short walk to the park s entrance,
Tuesday 11 October river levels are on the rise, so we tackle the has modern accommodation on the edge of
Canyon Overlook trail for biblical vistas to the Virgin River, where you can easily while
Novotel
BONUS 2-14 Cliff Road
the West Temple, Altar of Sacrifi ce and The
Sentinel. This is my kind of worship
away a day in a lounger on the sandy banks
staring up at the canyon. Rooms from $139 a
OFFERS PARRAMATTA
(zionoutfi tter.com). night (cliffroselodge.com). t
when booking Wednesday 19 October
on the day* Novotel
350 Church Street
For session times and to RSVP
visit SCENIC.COM.AU/RSVP
or call 138 128
Our popular information sessions are free but places are limited.
We encourage you to RSVP early to secure your seats.
*Conditions apply
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