NEW: CHILE Mammals & Birds of Patagonia - BBC'S DYNASTIES - Wildlife Worldwide
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Winter/Spring | 2019 NEW: CHILE Mammals & Birds of Patagonia BBC’S DYNASTIES See the stars of the show yourself NEW: RAJA AMPAT CRUISE Birds-of-paradise KATE HUMBLE IN BORNEO Deramakot Reserve
Welcome Festival of Wildlife We hope you enjoy our latest seasonal brochure which is packed with ideas to inspire your holidays for the year Spitsbergen 2020 ahead. If you’ve been enjoying the BBC’s Dynasties series, we have an article about how you can see these amazing Our specially chartered Festival of Wildlife: Spitsbergen 2020 animals for yourselves, as well as a special feature on wild dogs. In addition, we introduce eight new tours, cruise has been timed to maximise our chances of seeing polar including a mammal and bird trip to Chilean Patagonia, a cruise to Indonesia’s stunning Raja Ampat islands bears on the pack-ice, and in this article Team Member Chris Smith in search of birds-of-paradise, and a wild dog tour to describes the thrill of seeing a polar bear in its natural habitat. Botswana. If seeing polar bears is high on your travel wish-list then why not join our team of expert naturalists, expedition crew and photographers on our Festival of Wildlife to O ur ship sliced through pinnipeds, allowing us fantastic Spitsbergen in 2020 aboard the specially chartered Ocean Adventurer, and timed to maximise our chances of the calm, inky black opportunities for photography. seeing polar bears on the pack-ice. waters of the ocean. Walruses really are mighty creatures: It was early morning, full-grown males can weigh more than We also have articles about our range of dedicated and yet it was broad daylight as we two tonnes and their tusks can reach wildlife photography tours – to Peru’s Manu Reserve as sailed high above the Arctic Circle more than a metre in length. well as many other destinations, along with the results of in midsummer. This was the closest our annual Wildlife Photography Competition. to the North Pole I had ever been. We returned to the ship after what we Finally, we’re delighted to welcome naturalist and popular We were sailing north from the tip thought was the end of an exhilarating Tour Leader Nick Acheson to our team, and in this issue of Spitsbergen. Another, smaller morning of wildlife watching in the Nick reveals a few of his travel and wildlife secrets. island of the Svalbard Archipelago Arctic wilderness. However, no sooner appeared as a faint speck on had we sat down to lunch, there was a Wishing you happy travels in 2019 and beyond. the horizon. Slowly, the island message sent over the ship’s tannoy – became more distinct, and two ‘Polar bear spotted onshore’! We raced snow-capped peaks burst through straight back to our cabins to layer up the misty cloud that cloaked this again; the Zodiacs were relaunched Chris Breen, Founder isolated landmass. The peaks grew immediately. It was time to see the larger and larger as we approached, until we passed right between the great wanderer of the Arctic. Contents two towering mountains, imposing As before, we approached as stealthily Festival of Wildlife 2020: Spitsbergen 2/3 ‘guardians’ of this High Arctic as possible. A large female polar Finland’s Bears, Wolves & Wolverines 4/5 world. We dropped anchor in the bear grabbed our attention – she Raja Ampat: Coral, Birds & Paradise Islands 6/7 serene waters of a sheltered cove had been attracted to the beach by a China: Sichuan’s Mammals & Birds 8 behind these rock goliaths, the only walrus carcass. Having eaten her fill, Kate Humble: Borneo’s Deramakot Reserve 9 sounds those of waves breaking she made herself comfortable on the Chile: Mammals & Birds of Patagonia 10/11 and bird calls echoing around the beach, lying down and surveying her mountains. Jaguars of Brazil’s Pantanal 12/13 surroundings. This was our chance to get closer. Our excitement had Exploring Costa Rica 14/15 Scanning the beaches around our reached a whole different level and Focus on British Columbia 16/17 Festival of Wildlife: Spitsbergen 2020 ship we quickly spotted the distinctive yet not a sound could be heard as Photography Tours & Competition Results 18/23 blubbery outlines of walruses on everyone watched the bear in stunned Since our first Festival of Wildlife in Wild Dogs: Up Close 24/25 the shoreline. We took to the water silence. The hairs stood up on the 2004, this winning formula – of a range Uganda: Bwindi’s Mountain Gorillas 26/27 in Zodiacs straight away, to take a back of my neck (despite the multiple of wildlife-based excursions alongside a Dynasties: See the Stars of the Show 28/29 closer look at these unique marine layers I was wearing) as we moved programme of expert-led workshops and Meet the Team: Nick Acheson 30 mammals. Approaching as quietly closer. talks – offers a very special celebration Calendar of Small Group Holidays 31 as possible, we were close enough of wildlife for all those who take part. to make out details on the bodies Crouching down, we drifted past the So please do join Nick Acheson, Wildlife Festival of Wildlife Team of these true Arctic specialists with just the naked eye. The sound of bear several times in the Zodiacs. Each time we got a tiny bit closer. On Worldwide Founder Chris Breen, Mark Carwardine, photographers Bret Charman Our Holidays these extraordinary animals as they our final pass we couldn’t have been and Nick Garbutt, and Wildlife Worldwide With over 25 years’ experience, we offer outstanding interacted with each other reached us more than 15 metres away. The polar Director Nick Joynes as well as other hand-picked wildlife holidays to more than 330 locations guest speakers for this eight-night Nick Chris Mark Bret Nick Nick on all seven continents. Our team of wildlife experts in full force. Indeed, the phrase ‘huffed bear really is one of the world’s most Acheson Breen Carwardine Charman Garbutt Joynes chartered voyage to Spitsbergen in explores destinations around the world to ensure that we and puffed’ might have been coined to captivating creatures, the true icon of give you the finest wildlife encounters. We offer tailor- describe the noise walruses make as the Arctic. This was why I had come search of the wonderful wildlife of the made itineraries to suit your personal requirements, they become increasingly boisterous to Spitsbergen, but nothing could High Arctic. and small group holidays with like-minded wildlife with one another. Our Zodiacs prepare me for the thrill of seeing this Group, 12 May 2020 All holiday prices in this brochure are based on two people sharing a room (or cabin), and include flights from the enthusiasts. UK, accommodation and transfers (except where specified). Prices are correct at time of going to print. For full drifted silently past these oversized magnificent mammal. 11 days, from £5,995 details contact our expert wildlife team. Cover image: Wild dogs, Botswana 2 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 3
Finland’s Boreal Wildlife Bears, Wolves & Wolverines This summer Wildlife Worldwide Manager, Dan Free, visited the boreal forests of central Finland in search of a suite of large mammals. Martinselkonen Wilderness Centre, from the Main Hide Martinselkonen Wilderness Centre, from the Pond Hide Boreal Wildlife Centre, from the Forest Hide Kuikka Base Camp, from the lodge grounds H ome to many of Europe’s remaining Our final destination was Kuikka Base Camp, only 40 large mammal species, Finland has kilometres south of BWC, the most remote of the three been on my radar for years and this July lodges we visited. In addition to some excellent bear my wife and I finally managed a visit. sightings, we also saw wolf and wolverine. The wolves Our mission – to spend a week there, visiting three were wary, appearing in the half light and constantly different bear watching lodges, in the hope of seeing on the move, making photography tricky. However, moose, brown bear, wolverine and, with luck, wolf. the wolverines showed well, allowing fantastic views and photo opportunities – my wife, a keen wildlife After arriving in the small town of Kajaani in central photographer, was in her element! After so many hours Finland, we picked up a hire car and drove north for a in the hides, the elation at seeing my first wolf and couple of hours to Martinselkonen Wilderness Centre wolverine was incredible, and right up there with my top (MWC), which offers some of the most reliable bear wildlife experiences. Based in hides and with a mix of watching in Europe. There is a variety of hides available salmon, dog biscuits or whole carcasses used to tempt to guests, ranging from two-person photographic hides the bears, wolves and wolverines, the set-up is not as to 12-person group hides, with the larger hides typically natural as seeing bears chasing salmon in North America. offering more comfort (bunk beds and a private loo). Our However, for actual sightings/photographic opportunities, first evening was spent in one of the larger hides and, and being able to observe a diverse range of behaviours, from the moment we arrived in the late afternoon, until Finland is an incredible option. the time we left the following morning around 7am, there was constant bear activity, with up to 20 bears present We already offer a range of fantastic small group trips at one time, including large males, sows and young that visit one or a combination of the above lodges, but cubs. I’d heard about such experiences from clients we also now offer a self-drive option, allowing you to and had a good idea about what to expect, but was still design your own itinerary, either for a long weekend, or completely overwhelmed by the amount of activity. an extended period. Self-driving in Finland is extremely easy and gives you the freedom to explore this Our second evening was spent in a photography hide fascinating part of Europe at your own pace. located near a small lake. Whilst it was much quieter here, when the bears did arrive it was spectacular – a Contact our expert team to book our new Finland mother and three cubs walking along the edge of the Self-Drive holiday or for more information about our lake made a perfect reflection in the mirror-like water. As small group tours to Finland. the light began to fade, the cubs moved off and several large males entered the fray, the tension amongst them obvious as the larger males sought to dominate the youngsters. After two nights at MWC, we drove back south for two hours, through vast tracts of boreal forest, punctuated by beautiful lakes and areas of swamp, encountering both moose and capercaillie en route. Our next stop was a two-night stay at the Boreal Wildlife Centre (BWC). Traditionally, BWC is quieter for bears, but offers a good chance of wolverine and, occasionally, wolf. We spent a night in a large hide overlooking an expanse NEW Finland Self-Drive of swamp, followed by a second night in a smaller, but Combining three of Finland’s finest mammal watching very comfortable, photographic hide. We had excellent lodges, this exciting new self-drive trip offers excellent bear sightings intermittently throughout the night, with chances of seeing brown bear, wolverine and wolf. enormous 300-kilo male bears passing within a few metres of the hides and the occasional white-tailed eagle Trip idea, Apr-Aug joining the feast. 8 days, from £2,395 Wolverine (main image) and all images by Dani Free 4 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 5
Raja Ampat’s Birds-of-Paradise Wildlife Consultant Nick Acheson describes the highlights of our new cruise to Indonesia’s Raja Ampat Islands which goes in search of the region’s extraordinary birds-of-paradise. Red bird-of-paradise Wilson’s bird-of-paradise MV Katharina MV Katharina, double cabin F ew birds fire the imagination detail of its multi-coloured plumage like the remarkable birds- and its bizarre dance. of-paradise. Since 18th century reports first reached Next we sail to Batanta, for more Europe of the shimmering courtship adventures in the forest, and from dances of these extraordinary here on to Salawati to visit a lek of the birds, they have been high on any breathtaking king bird-of-paradise. Also naturalist’s list of most coveted here, though harder to see, four other wildlife. However, of the more than birds-of-paradise and the imposing 40 known species distributed from northern cassowary may be found. And the Maluku Islands (Moluccas) to that’s just the birds! Each day we hope eastern Australia, most are either also to snorkel over a reef and marvel restricted to inaccessible highland at the region’s astonishing marine areas of New Guinea or are found biodiversity. on remote islands. Seeing them has always been a major challenge. Sailing between Raja Ampat and Until now. What better way to see Halmahera in the Maluku Islands the endemic birds-of-paradise we stop at Gebe. Birds-of-paradise of the Raja Ampat and Maluku here are represented by the glossy- archipelagos (Indonesia) than by mantled manucode, but the forest is island-hopping on a comfortable also home to a range of kingfishers, sailing vessel? Even better, why not parrots, imperial pigeons and fruit combine the spectacular scenery doves. Making land on Halmahera and birds of these little-visited we say goodbye to the Katharina and islands with snorkelling on many of move for three nights to Weda Reef their spectacular reefs? and Rainforest Resort. The forest here supports two of the westernmost Our exceptional new tour offers just birds-of-paradise: Halmahera paradise this combination: birds-of-paradise crow and the extraordinary Wallace’s shimmering in the crown of tropical standardwing. This last bird was named rainforest and vibrant marine fish in honour of Alfred Russel Wallace, a shimmering over tropical reefs. Our great biogeographer and co-discoverer adventures begin in West Papua, where of evolution, who spent years exploring from the port of Sorong we set sail Indonesia in the 1850s and 60s. on our vessel Katharina to the nearby archipelago of Raja Ampat. The next If since the days of Zoo Quest you day we have our first rendezvous with have longed to see birds-of-paradise birds-of-paradise: on the island of Gam in their natural habitat, our new we will visit a lek of the beautiful red Indonesia cruise is for you. Why not bird-of-paradise. A second species, join our search for these stunning the oddly named glossy-mantled birds on beautiful, little known islands, manucode, is also sometimes seen combined with snorkelling over pristine here. Setting off before dawn, the reefs and dolphin watching as we sail? following day we will land on Waigeo and walk to a lek of Wilson’s bird-of- paradise. One of the most dazzling NEW Raja Ampat’s Birds-of-Paradise birds on earth, unlike many of its relatives, Wilson’s displays on the Group, 19 Nov 2020 ground, allowing us to admire every 16 days, from £6,495 6 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 7
Sichuan’s Kate Humble In Borneo Sensational Mammals & Birds Deramakot Forest Reserve In October 2018, Barrie Cooper led our inaugural mammal In recent years, Deramakot Forest Reserve in eastern Sabah has gained and birdwatching holiday to China’s Sichuan Province and Sichuan’s Sensational Mammals a reputation for its reliable sightings of one of the world’s rarest big cats, in this article he describes the trip’s highlights. & Birds with Nick Acheson the Sunda clouded leopard, as well as a host of other exciting mammals. Group, 2 Nov 2019 & 4 Apr 2020 TV Presenter Kate Humble writes about her visit to the reserve … 16 days, from £4,625 T he drive to Deramakot Forest Reserve is a long one, through acre after acre of palm oil plantation and past forestry depots where trunks of what were once mighty trees lie in towering stacks. It certainly doesn’t feel like the approach to what, just four years ago, was discovered to be a wildlife hotspot. Deramakot comprises 55,000 hectares of rainforest and, although it hasn’t been conventionally logged for 20 years, it is still sustainably logged. I was sceptical. Is it really possible that the logging has no detrimental effect on wildlife? I was keen to see for myself … Looking for wildlife in Deramakot consists of driving (by day and at night) very slowly along a single 40-kilometre-long forest track, standing in the open back of a Landrover, scanning dense jungle. I couldn’t quite believe we were going to see anything, but within moments of setting out on my first night in the reserve, my guide asked the driver to stop. ‘Slow loris!’ she said. And there, high above us in the crook of a branch, was a saucer- eyed creature with orange fur, hanging upside down by its toes, eating leaves. And so began five days and nights of wildlife viewing that was unlike anything I had ever done before. Every night we saw something new. Tibetan wolf by Tang Jun The ancient colugo (pictured). A moon rat. There were regulars: the flying squirrels, palm and Malay civets, and the gorgeously decorated banded S civet; and most nights we saw the small, exquisitely patterned leopard cat. ichuan’s scenery is on a (pictured above) as it turned to look at crested tit-warbler. Black-necked A long night of searching culminated in the sighting of two sun bears, only grand scale – towering snowy us, and then of the second as it trotted crane, six species of redstarts and four a few hundred metres from our base camp. We followed a trail of ripped- peaks shrouded in twisty over to join its companion. Elsewhere accentors were also noteworthy. up vegetation and piles of dung to a family group of diminutive Borneo snake-like mists, and big on the high grasslands we saw larks, elephant. skies over high-altitude (3,500+ snowfinches and pikas, a hunting saker In total we saw 35 mammal species, metres) grasslands that stretch falcon and upland buzzards, Himalayan including a family of feeding golden But there is one animal that has really made Deramakot’s name. It’s a from one horizon to the other. I was vulture and red-billed chough. Then a snub-nosed monkeys in Labahe show-stopper. The rarest and least known of the world’s big cats: the Sunda delighted to lead our first trip to the hillside scan brought us our first view of forest, and the rare Asiatic black bear clouded leopard. However, although the chances of seeing one here are region in October 2018, not least Tibetan fox – the first of an impressive in Tangiahe. Other special mammals possibly higher than anywhere else, many leave unsuccessful, including Borneo’s Rare Mammals because of the region’s delicious tally of nine Tibetan foxes that day. We included Chinese goral, forest me. But there is another animal found here, one not as visually stunning as and world-famous food. However, saw another of our target species, the musk deer, both Tibetan and rhesus the Sunda clouded leopard, but even more rare and even more elusive. It is Visiting some of Borneo’s best mammal it’s the province’s fantastic wildlife elusive Pallas’ cat, by torchlight. macaques, and the photogenic takin called an otter civet, and in the beam of my guide’s torch, I was fortunate watching nature reserves and national parks, that makes Sichuan truly special for – the latter sought-after mammal enough to see this extraordinary animal, snuffling along in a ditch. this small group tour provides opportunities nature enthusiasts. Next it was time to explore Sichuan’s was often seen wandering around the to see a host of rare mammals, including the forested mountains, already looking grounds near our hotel! What I discovered in Deramakot’s forests, is that it is possible to use elusive Sunda clouded leopard. Our Sichuan adventure began on the spectacular in their autumn colours. A nature’s resources in a way that still satisfies our demands for natural Group, 8 May, 7 Jun, 3 Aug, 29 Sep 2019 & grasslands of the Tibetan Plateau. A trio of glamorous pheasants awaited Overall, it was a wonderful trip, and resources such as timber, but not to the detriment of a habitat and its 24 Apr, 29 May, 14 Aug, 9 Oct 2020 snowy walk brought us to within a few us: blue-eared, Lady Amherst’s and I can thoroughly recommend a visit wildlife. And, at the end of my visit, with that optimistic realisation, I finally 14 days, from £3,195 hundred metres of a pair of Tibetan golden, as well as endemics including to Sichuan, both for its wildlife and drifted off to sleep as the first light crept into the sky and the gibbons wolves. We had great views of one wolf Sichuan tit, Sichuan leaf warbler and delicious cuisine. started to sing. Rufous morph colugo from Deramakot, by Dani Free 8 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 9
Chile Puma by Dani Free, Torres del Paine National Park (main image) Mammals & Birds of Patagonia Wildlife Consultant Nick Acheson describes the highlights of our exciting new trip to Chilean Patagonia on which we go in search of blue whale, puma, Darwin’s fox, kodkod and king penguins. T here is no country on earth more remarkable than Chile. Reaching 4,200 kilometres from the border of Peru to the meeting place of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans at the southernmost tip of South America, Chile is on average just 177 kilometres wide. Astonishingly, for a country where you are always close to an international border, Chile is home to many virtual endemics, thanks to the unique but little known Valdivian temperate rainforest. Locked in by dry valleys to the north, lofty Andean peaks to the east, and wind-whipped Patagonian grassland to the south, Valdivian forests of monkey-puzzle and southern beech (in which 90% of all plants are endemic) are also home to many endemic birds, whose names are as beautiful and evocative as their plumage: black-throated huet-huet, chucao tapaculo, Des Murs’ wiretail and green-backed firecrown. More tantalising still, this is the habitat of the southern pudú (just pipped as the world’s smallest deer by its northern congener) and of the kodkod. This is South America’s smallest cat and, like the largest cat on the continent, the magnificent jaguar, it Still further south, in the bleak immensity of Tierra del Fuego, is found in both a spotted form and a much rarer all black form. South America’s only continental colony of king penguins may These forests are also where a young Charles Darwin collected be seen. Considered, from archaeological evidence, to have the first specimen of the fox (South America’s prettiest) which been hunted out here in prehistory, a small but growing colony bears his name. The animal was so trusting that Darwin killed it has recently returned to nest among ruddy-headed geese, with a blow from his geological hammer. Fuegian and flying steamer ducks and kelp geese. Offshore, in the Strait of Magellan, Commerson’s dolphins, surely among the Offshore here lives the little Chilean dolphin. Dark grey above most attractive cetaceans in the world’s oceans, are found. and pure white below, with a curiously rounded dorsal fin, this lovely animal is found only off the coast of Chile, from Santiago Wouldn’t it be superb if someone created a tour on which it was southwards, where seasonally it is dwarfed by the spectacular possible to see all of these wonderful Chilean animals, from blue whale. Along the rocky shore, the dolphin is accompanied rainforest, mountain and pampa? We knew you would ask, so throughout its range by the South American sea lion and the we have. Look no further than Mammals & Birds of Patagonia, endangered, scantly known marine otter. Where large rivers a brand new tour which will show you Chile as it has not been flow to shore, and around inland lakes, the equally endangered explored before. southern river otter is found. The wilderness of Chile’s far south is better known by NEW Chile – Mammals & Birds of Patagonia naturalists. In Torres del Paine thousands of guanacos graze the shores of shimmering lakes dotted with black-necked swans, Our new small group holiday to southern Chile goes in search great grebes and Chiloé wigeon, while huemul (South Andean of some of the country’s most exciting wildlife, including deer) browse groves of southern beech beneath towering snow- cetaceans such as blue whale and Commerson’s dolphin, as covered peaks. Both animals are followed by the implacable well as Darwin’s fox, kodkod – the smallest cat in the Americas eyes of Patagonia’s top predator, the dust-coloured puma, – and king penguin. which is seen here far more readily than anywhere else in its Group, 7 Feb 2020 vast range. 15 days, from £6,495 Darwin’s fox Kodkod King penguins 10 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 11
Brazil Wildlife of the Pantanal In September, Wildlife Consultant Helen Bryon travelled to the Brazilian Pantanal in search of South America’s apex predator. Here she describes the thrill of seeing her first jaguar. Wildlife of the Pantanal Jaguars of the Pantanal Group, 2 Jun, 17 Jul, 2 Aug, 22 Sep & 8 Oct 2019 Trip idea, Jun-Oct 12 days, from £4,395 15 days, from £7,095 I magine standing in a field full of sparklers. small, simple and spotless Jaguar Retreat) 45 That’s what it was like. I came looking for kilometres upriver, we enjoyed fresh fried fish jaguars and here I was being gloriously and salad before heading back out on the river. and unexpectedly dazzled by thousands Immediately, I was utterly captivated by capybara, and thousands of fireflies reflecting the star- their endearing young stealing our hearts with studded night sky above. An absolutely perfect every sighting. Rounding a bend in the river we end to an absolutely perfect day. saw a cluster of boats and realised a jaguar was swimming along the bank close to them Rewind 14 hours and we were up at the crack … and she wasn’t alone. A six-month-old cub of dawn, full of anticipation for what lay ahead. was following her along the banks and over the After a spot of birding and capybara photography sandbars, taking us to photographic heaven. around SouthWild Pantanal Lodge, we boarded Next came a lone male jaguar, and then our first our open-sided safari truck and headed south giant river otters squabbling over an eel. The sun down the Transpantaneira to Porto Jofre. glowed orange as we made our way back to the Travelling towards the end of the dry season, a lodge for a fresh caipirinha and dinner. Stumbling truly ridiculous number of yacare caiman lined across yet another female jaguar en route, this the drying pools as we drove past, jostling for time with two cubs, took our Day One total to position with egrets, herons and jabirus. Whilst seven jags. Incredible! And then, of course, there we thoroughly enjoyed the brocket deer, crab- were the fireflies – an absolutely perfect end to an eating foxes, black-tailed marmosets and hyacinth absolutely perfect day. macaws that vied for our attention, we really had only one thing on our minds. What unfolded over the next few days continues to leave me in awe – watching jaguar catching Next, the exhilaration of river travel as we powered caiman, caiman catching anaconda, swimming along the mighty Cuiabá River en route to the tapir, otter acrobatics and the most wonderfully ‘jaguar zone’ was short-lived as a fisherman vibrant birdlife. Tearing ourselves away to travel gestured towards the bank literally about seven or back up the Transpantaneira, we thought we’d eight minutes into our journey. The engine was cut left the ‘jaguar zone’ behind us, but not so. Pug and we turned towards the bank; our eyes were marks lined the road and we soon learned that on stalks. Surely not? Could it be? Scouring the two jaguars had been spotted early that morning bank with fervour, I couldn’t believe our luck when in the car park at SouthWild Pantanal Lodge. Michael, our guide, exclaimed, ‘Jaguar!’ Upon arrival at our next lodge, Pouso Alegre, tracks of another kind were visible after an As she came into focus, her beautiful, whiskered unexpected downpour – those of giant anteater. face peered out of the dense foliage above us, The animal in question paid us a visit that before she slowly moved back into the undergrowth. evening, sniffing its way around the gardens and A few metres further on was an opening, and our filling us with delight. prayers were answered when she emerged, stretched and then made her way slowly down The beauty of a stay at Pouso Alegre is that it the sandbank towards us. A sit down, a spot of offers the potential to stretch your legs over the preening, a little lie down. I was, for once, lost for well-marked trails that criss-cross the grounds. words. She was magnificent. Perhaps 10 or 15 Here we enjoyed excellent birding as well as minutes passed before she sauntered off, having seeing agouti, coati and marsh deer. A sundowner given us a monster first sighting that we were waterhole often attracts tapir, and we were lucky fortunate enough to have to ourselves. Little did enough to see tayra on more than one occasion. we know that this was only the start! So how do you sum up a trip like this? You don’t. After checking in to our accommodation (the You just grin! Jaguar by Helen Bryon, north Pantanal (main image) 12 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 13
Costa Rica Resplendent quetzal (main image) Quetzals, Hummers & Harpy Eagles! Product Manager Brian Wood describes Costa Rica’s key wildlife sites, and why this tiny country punches well above its weight in terms of bird biodiversity. C osta Rica has long been a enthusiast – and birders, in particular. major destination for avid birders in search of exotic On the Caribbean side, Tortuguero National avifauna. The mainland and Park comprises natural lagoons and creeks territorial waters together are home to linked by canals created for the export over 840 species – some 10% of the of bananas. The area’s heavy rainfall, entire world population. This riot of combined with a lack of human habitation, birdlife includes about 600 residents ensure that the park is a haven for wildlife. and eight endemics; there are 54 The vegetation that lines the waterways species of hummingbird, and 16 species teems with herons and kingfishers, tree of parrot. frogs and primates, while beaches of dark volcanic sand provide a nesting ground Such diversity is due, in part, to the nature for four species of marine turtle – green, of Costa Rica’s formation. After millions leatherback, hawksbill and loggerhead. By of years of earthquakes and volcanic contrast, the town of San Gerardo de Dota eruptions, the once separate continents in the foothills of the Talamanca Mountains of North and South America became sits amidst high-altitude rainforest. Here, connected, and the land-bridge that linked the upper slopes of a steep-sided valley them – Central America – was populated are shrouded with cloud forest that is home by species from both, such as jays from to many species of bird, including the the north and hummingbirds from the resplendent quetzal, regarded by some as south. In addition, Costa Rica’s tropical the most beautiful bird in the world. climate ensures that it is blessed with an abundance of fruit and flowers. Birds that However, in my opinion, the jewel in Costa specialise in feeding mainly on fruit or Rica’s wildlife crown is the remote Osa flower nectar become progressively rarer Peninsula, which lies in the south-west of the further away you get from the equator. the country near the Panama border. This But in Costa Rica, where trees fruit all bastion of biodiversity – Central America’s year round, birds such as the resplendent last major tract of Pacific rainforest – quetzal can live on a diet that consists shelters its largest remaining population of virtually of a single fruit. jaguar and tapir. Occupying some 40% of the Osa Peninsula, Corcovado National Park For a tiny country (with an area smaller is home to half of Costa Rica’s species, than Scotland), Costa Rica punches well with its largest population of scarlet above its weight in both biodiversity and macaws and many other endangered conservation initiatives. Established in animals including Baird’s tapir, giant 1976, the National Protected Areas System anteater and the magnificent harpy eagle, includes more than 190 areas in seven the world’s largest bird of prey. categories, giving Costa Rica one of the highest percentages (26%) of protected A combination of social conscience, land in the world. With both Pacific and political will, unusual economics and sheer Costa Rica’s Wildlife Wonders Costa Rica’s Natural Highlights Caribbean coastlines, and nowhere more effort ensure that, in Costa Rica, a larger than 130 kilometres wide, the country’s percentage of land remains as natural Explore this lush and biodiverse country in Explore forests, beaches, waterfalls and lagoons in spine is dominated by a 400-kilometre- habitat than in any other country in the search of its wonderful mammals, birds, reptiles, search of nesting turtles, monkeys, a diverse flora long chain of mountains, with a maximum world. It offers a valuable way forward to amphibians and incredible flora. and spectacular birdlife. elevation of 3,820 metres. The net result every country on the planet … as well as Group, 9 Nov 2019; 11 Jan & 8 Feb 2020 Trip idea, Jan-Dec is a patchwork of different habitats, a remarkably rewarding destination for the 12 days, from £3,695 14 days, from £2,995 and a dream destination for the wildlife keen naturalist. 14 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 15
Canada To view our full collection of small group and tailor-made holidays to Canada, please visit our website or contact our expert team. British Columbia at its Best Wildlife Worldwide Manager, Dan Free, writes about the special wildlife of western Canada and the highlights of our new self-drive holiday through British Columbia. Vancouver Island Self-Drive British Columbia’s Wildlife Highlights The Bear Essentials Enjoy grey whale, orca and black bear See black bear, humpback whale, sea Based at one of our carefully selected B on Vancouver Island, with the option to otter and bald eagle; includes a three- lodges, enjoy daily bear watching trips ritish Columbia is a firm coast, these bears are still in the process of conclude at a bear watching lodge. night stay at Tweedsmuir Park Lodge. and expect some close encounters. favourite of ours here at Wildlife being habituated and the experience is all Worldwide. In September, award- the more thrilling for it. We were treated to Trip idea, May-Oct Group, 30 Aug 2019 Trip idea, May-Oct winning photographer Nick some fantastic sightings and, in the absence 15 days, from £3,795 13 days, from £7,495 8 days, from £4,695 Garbutt led our Spirit Bear Quest into of any viewing platforms or hides, we were the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest, often at eye level with bears passing within where our group enjoyed fabulous views just a few metres of us (pictured). Grizzly of spirit bear (a white variant of black days meant heading out by boat at 8am and bear), alongside the more common black returning about 4pm; however, if the whales form, grizzlies, humpbacks and even were in the area we would often view coastal wolves. In early October, Chris them on the way back, making for a super Breen, Mark Carwardine and 25 guests conclusion to the day. took over Knight Inlet Lodge for our Festival of Bears, enjoying a wealth of Tweedsmuir Park Lodge is one of the longest grizzly sightings – watching the bears as operating lodges in western Canada, dating they chased salmon in the shallows and back to the late 1920s. Located in the heart foraged in the intertidal zone. Meanwhile, of British Columbia’s largest protected park my wife and I took time to visit a new – in a breathtaking location on the edge lodge in the Broughton Archipelago, as of the Atnarko River, and set against the well as an old favourite further north in backdrop of the coastal mountains – the Tweedsmuir National Park. lodge offers a luxurious option for grizzly bear watching. The timber framed chalets Run by the excellent husband and wife are finished to a very high standard and team of Kelli and Tim McGrady, Farewell the food and service are exemplary. Guests Harbour is an intimate 12-room wildlife are invited to join a range of bear watching lodge located in a secluded position on a activities including nature walks and small- small island across the Johnstone Strait boat drifts, but the lodge also benefits from from Telegraph Cove. The lodge offers a having two private viewing platforms on comfortable base from which to explore the river which are only available for lodge this outstandingly rich area for wildlife. The residents. This gives you the freedom to fill whale watching is on your doorstep, the your day with bear watching opportunities, blows from the humpbacks clearly visible rather than being forced to take time out beyond the shelter of the bay, whilst the (which can be a source of frustration at area is a favourite haunt of both resident some other bear watching lodges). and transient orcas which we were fortunate enough to encounter on several occasions. Tweedsmuir Park Lodge is approximately Black bears are seen on and around the one hour’s drive from the small coastal neighbouring islands, whilst for grizzlies, we town of Bella Coola, which is serviced daily would travel by boat for approximately 90 by a 70-minute flight from Vancouver; minutes through the magnificent Broughton however, there is the option to drive from Archipelago, and into a secluded inlet of Vancouver or, alternatively (as we did), you the Great Bear Rainforest. Once ashore, we can travel to Bella Coola via a full day ferry crept slowly through lichen-covered forests from Vancouver Island. We were blessed before emerging into a stretch of river where with some beautiful weather and it was we concealed ourselves by the shoreline one of the most scenic boat trips I’ve ever to await the arrival of a bear. Unlike more undertaken, with plenty of cetacean action established bear watching areas along the en route! Grizzly bear by Dani Free, Farewell Harbour (main image) 16 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 17
Photography Tours UK: Skomer’s Perfect Puffins with Bret Charman & Ben Cherry or Tom Mason The Welsh island of Skomer is the perfect place to build a portfolio of images of this charismatic auk. Spending three days (and two nights) on the island allows us to escape the throng of day visitors and photograph the Our collection of dedicated photography trips offers outstanding wildlife viewing as puffins undisturbed. In addition, around 70,000 Manx shearwaters return well as exceptional photography opportunities and tuition from our growing team to their breeding burrows on the island as darkness falls – a magical event that can only be experienced by staying on the island. of experts. Below is a selection of our trips for 2019/20. To view the full portfolio please see our website, or order our dedicated Photography Tours brochure. Group (max 10), 28 May, 11 Jun, 13 Jun & 9 Jul 2019 3 days, from £545 Zimbabwe – Mana Pools: Wild dogs & Elephants with Bret Charman Papua New Guinea: Culture & Birds-of-Paradise Photography with Bret Charman On this safari, led by award-winning photographer Bret Charman, we explore Mana Pools National Park by vehicle, canoe and on foot. The park’s PNG’s magnificent birds-of-paradise have long been recognised and wild dogs, which were featured in the recent BBC Dynasties series, are revered, thanks to their ornamental plumage, dazzling colours and renowned for their very close approaches, while bull elephants also allow extravagant courtship displays, and we aim to observe and photograph for superb views as they feed from high branches. Lion, leopard, impala, these stunning birds on this tour. We will also hope to capture some of the zebra, hippo and aquatic birds are among the other highlights. country’s special expressive tribal art forms during our time in PNG. Group (max 8), 10 Oct 2019 Group (max 8), 26 Jun 2019 11 days, from £8,795 19 days, from £11,695 UK: Red Squirrel Photography with James Shooter NEW Finland: Bear Photography with Tom Mason Based at a comfortable rural lodge in Cairngorms National Park, we have Finland offers some of the best opportunities for photographing brown exclusive use of purpose-built hides and tuition from wildlife photographer bears anywhere in the world, and has a series of well established, James Shooter. With their bushy tails and tufted ears, red squirrels make purpose-built hides which provide the chance to photograph brown extremely appealing subjects. We have timed our departure so that we will, bears and other wildlife in a variety of natural settings. Combining two of hopefully, have a snowy backdrop for photographing the squirrels, as well Finland’s finest bear watching lodges, and with expert tuition from wildlife as other wildlife including crested tit and several species of woodland bird. photographer Tom Mason, this six-day holiday is the perfect introduction to photographing bears in the wild. Group (max 10), 16 Feb & 2 Mar 2019 Group (max 8), 1 Jul 2019 5 days, from £795 6 days, from £1,995 NEW Spain – Pyrenees Photo Workshop with Joe Cornish NEW Ethiopia – A Unique Wonder with Ben Cherry The charming hill town of Berdún sits in a valley framed by fertile farmland Join award-winning environmental photojournalist and conservationist Ben to the south and dramatic badlands to the north. The immediate area Cherry on a trip through three of Ethiopia’s most rewarding locations: the around Berdún and nearby city of Jaca, has a wealth of sites of interest, Simien Mountains, Lalibela and Bale Mountain National Park, all of which including the extraordinary landscapes of Mallos de Riglos, and Agüero. are on the cusp of mainstream tourism. Ben’s passion is ‘putting a face to Along with hidden monasteries and charming historic towns and villages, conversation’, and this tour offers a chance to watch his unique approach this is a wonderful destination for the keen photographer. to wildlife photography in action, in fascinating and scenic settings. Group (max 6), 28 Feb 2019 Group (max 10), 2019 (fully booked); 7 Feb 2020 8 days, from £2,495 15 days, from £5,295 Slovenia: Brown Bear Photography with Bret Charman NEW South Luangwa Photo Safari with Bret Charman Join award-winning wildlife photographer Bret Charman on a five-night Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park is a photographer’s paradise with visit to Slovenia’s southern Dinaric Alps region in search of brown bears exquisite light, stunning wildlife and some of the best guides in Africa. This and Ural owls. Our mornings will consist of walks to view Ural owls along ten-day tour has been designed to maximise photography opportunities. We with visits to intricate cave networks and disappearing lakes, whilst our hope to see and photograph mammals such as Thornicroft’s giraffe, puku, afternoons and evenings will be spent in purpose-built hides observing and zebra, elephant, hippo and impala, as well as lion and leopard. On night photographing the local brown bear population. drives, African civet, genet and honey badger are all possible. Group (max 8), 19 May 2019 Group (max 6), 6 Nov & 13 Nov 2020 6 days, from £1,645 10 days, from £3,395 18 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 19
The Peruvian Amazon Photography Tours & Workshops with Nick Garbutt Below is a small selection of our photography Manu – Photography Tour holidays led by award-winning photographer Nick Garbutt. To view our full portfolio of photography tours please see our website. Award-winning photographer Nick Garbutt describes the diverse and colourful Amazonian birdlife in Manu National Park, from lekking cock-of-the-rocks to raucous macaws gathering at a clay-lick … it’s a photographer’s dream destination! UK: Badger Photography Workshop A purpose-built photography hide in a secluded valley in the Devon countryside offers a perfect opportunity to photograph a well-established badger sett. Group (max 4), 3 Jun, 7 Jun, 26 Jul & 29 Jul 2019 I 2 days, from £395 first read about the Madre de Dios and Manu Rivers. and other parrot species gather on a extraordinary biodiversity of daily basis. They often descend early in Manu in Peru in my final year The cloud forests are rich in birdlife, the morning onto the exposed wall of a at university. Back then, it including the iconic Andean cock- bluff to eat the soil, its alkaline properties was touted as arguably the most of-the-rock that can be seen and helping to neutralise the acidic toxins biodiverse chunk of land on the photographed from close quarters at that accumulate from their diet. planet, and it conjured up images in a well-known lek (display area) where my mind of a tropical forest bursting males show off to females. Other There is a strict pecking order at the with life, from the forest floor to the specialties of the area include several clay-lick, with smaller species such as tree-tops. I made a mental note – species of hummingbirds, motmots, blue-headed parrot and mealy parrot one day I had to go. Fast forward toucans and quetzals. There is also a gathering shortly after sunrise. A little 30 years and I finally got to visit in huge diversity of butterflies, moths and later, the spectacular red-and-green Northern Tanzania – The Great Migration November 2017. After three decades other invertebrates, all of which provide macaws begin to amass, at first settling Photograph and admire the wildlife of the of anticipation, it was worth the endless photographic options, as well in adjacent trees and sometimes flying northern Serengeti during the height of the wait! Manu did not disappoint, rather as numerous frogs and reptiles that in small flocks back and forth along the annual migration with expert tutelage from it far exceeded expectations. Put provide further inspiration. length of the clay-lick. Then perhaps Nick. simply, some areas of Manu were one or two descend onto the lick itself, the most pristine rainforest locations Once in the lowlands it is possible to followed by a few more, until a critical Group (max 8), 21 Aug 2019 I’ve yet visited, and I’ve been to a venture deep into the Peruvian Amazon mass is reached and all the remaining 18 days, from £11,195 fair few around the globe. and visit a number of interesting gathering of macaws descends in locations. One of these sites allows unison, transforming the bland earth- All tropical rainforests are extremely visitors to work closely with scientists coloured wall into a raucous, riotous rich in flora and fauna, but Manu is involved in active research, and this rainbow of colour … an occurrence exceptional and has rightfully earned a gives us unprecedented access to rare that couldn’t be more perfect for the reputation as the jewel of Amazonian and difficult-to-photograph species. A keen photographer! wildlife viewing experiences. Consisting very remote location on the Manu River of several very different habitats and has an oxbow lake close by which is ecological and elevational zones, Manu home to giant otters and an abundance Peru: Amazon’s Secrets – Rainforest is the perfect multi-location rainforest of birdlife, while the surrounding forests Photography destination that offers several different support 13 species of primate, a large India: Tiger Trails & Wildlife Photography and contrasting areas of exceptional number of which are regularly seen. Join Nick on a photographic journey through one of the most biologically No other animal sets the pulse racing quite species richness. An overland route, like a tiger. Join Nick in Bandhavgarh and beginning in the highlands of the Further downstream, and off the main diverse areas on earth – Manu Biosphere Reserve in the Peruvian Kanha National Parks to see and photograph Andean páramo, sequentially descends channel of the Madre de Dios River, is this magnificent feline. though high and mid-elevation cloud Blanquillo clay-lick, undoubtedly a Amazon. forests, finally reaching various sites in highlight of any visit to the region. Here Group (max 8), 3 Sep 2020 Group (max 8), 5 Feb 2020 lowland Amazonian rainforest along the flocks of noisy red-and-green macaws 20 days, from £7,495 16 days, from £5,595 Red-and-green macaws at a clay-lick by Nick Garbutt, Manu Biosphere Reserve (main image) 20 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 21
Wildlife Photography Our Sponsors A huge thanks must go to all of our sponsors: Swarovski Optik, Wex Photo Video, Rohan and Bloomsbury Wildlife. 2018 Competition Winners Without their support we wouldn’t have been able to provide such a wonderful array of prizes to our deserved winners. We are excited to reveal the winning images for our new However, we are delighted to announce that the overall winner Overall Winner & Animal Action Winner – Derek Howes Wildlife Portfolio Winner – Kellie Netherwood Worldwide Photography Competition 2018 – we had over 500 of our Photography Competition 2018 is ‘Humpback Whales This image immediately stood out. It obviously meets the Kellie’s stunning collection of images from Japan was the entries and the quality was astounding! Thank you to everyone bubble-net feeding’ by Derek Howes, and his superb image criteria for the Animal Action category, but also has that extra standout entry in the Wildlife Portfolio category. Her portfolio who entered. Our panel of judges had a very tough task is also the winner in the Animal Action category. The winner wow factor! The humpback whales are bubble-net feeding, a includes a perfect mix of atmospheric scenes, incredible action shortlisting the entries, and then picking the winners for each of the Wildlife Portraits category is ‘Grumpy Cub’ by behaviour only seen in the coastal waters of Alaska and Canada. shots and powerful portraits. Be sure to view the rest of the category – Wildlife Portraits, Animal Action and Wildlife Portfolio Nathalie Mountain, while Kellie Netherwood wins the Derek wins our five-day trip to Slovenia to photograph brown images from Kellie’s portfolio on the competition website. Kellie – and, finally, the overall winner. Wildlife Portfolio category. bears, as well as a pair of Swarovski CL Companion binoculars. wins a Rohan shopping experience worth £500. Wildlife Portraits Winner – Nathalie Mountain Our Wildlife Portraits category had by far the most entries, and proved particularly tough for our panel. In the end, our judges decided on this stunning image of a lion cub in the Moru Kopjes of the Serengeti, Tanzania. The subtle range of hues, tones and textures in the image were commended by a number of the judges. Technically, it is a very accomplished photograph, but it is how Nathalie captured the cub’s expression that led to ‘Grumpy Cub’ being named as the winner in this extremely competitive category. Nathalie will receive a £500 voucher from Wex Photo Video. Our wildlife photography holidays provide the perfect combination of outstanding wildlife viewing, exceptional photography See all of the awarded images by visiting: www.wildlifeworldwidephotographycompetition.com/winners2018 opportunities and expert tuition to suit all levels of ability. To view our portfolio of dedicated Photography Tours please visit our We will soon be launching our new 2019 Wildlife Photography Competition, so sign up to our e-news to keep up-to-date. website, or order our Photography Tours brochure. 22 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 23
African Wild Dogs Call our expert team for further details about our full range of tailor-made and small group holidays which include a chance to observe wild dogs hunting and socialising. Product Manager Brian Wood reveals the two sides of wild dogs, Africa’s most charismatic canine – efficient, tireless hunters that also have a complex and fascinating social life. NEW Botswana’s Wild Dogs Mana Pools: Wild dogs & Elephants Wild Zimbabwe O nce known as the Cape Their social life is as fascinating as it is A luxury mobile camping safari to Join Bret Charman on a safari to the Enjoy Zimbabwe and its superb variety hunting dog, and still entertaining. The adults indulge in complex two of northern Botswana’s prime UNESCO World Heritage Site of Mana of wildlife by vehicle, on foot and from occasionally referred to rituals, often seeming to watch the pups’ wilderness areas, in search of wild Pools National Park to experience close the water on this exciting safari based as the African painted playful antics with indulgent gazes. When dog, lion, leopard, elephant and other encounters with wild dogs and bull in the country’s best national parks and wolf (a translation of its Latin name) they wake from a day’s sleep, much exciting wildlife. elephants. wilderness locations. the wild dog is one of Africa’s most sniffing, nuzzling, licking, pawing and Group, 7 Jul 2019 Group, 10 Oct 2019 Trip idea, Apr-Nov endangered mammals. Long seen as a scratching (and even nipping) goes on, as 10 days, from £3,495 11 days, from £8,795 12 days, from £5,725 wanton killer, it was treated as vermin every dog ‘does the rounds’. Then, as if by and summarily eliminated. Thankfully, magic – there is no visible or audible cue these fascinating carnivores are now – they all head off together on the evening the subject of various conservation hunt. initiatives; however, much damage has already been done to its numbers, The focus of any pack is the dominant and the WWF estimates the total world pair, which occupies a temporary den to population at only around 6,600. breed in. The other pack members are all subordinate to them, and when pups are Taller than a jackal yet slimmer than born they take priority over even the alpha a hyena, with prominent ears and a pair. A litter may contain as many as ten feathery white-tipped tail, the wild dog is pups, and the pack females cooperate in unmistakable in appearance. The unique raising them. pattern of its mottled tan, black and white coat means that researchers can identify Any kill is shared, according to an individuals for study. Its preferred habitat individual’s position in the pack hierarchy, is open bush with good sight-lines where and on return to the den adults regurgitate it can chase down prey and, in prey-rich meat for the pups. Once old enough, the areas, a pack may contain as many as 30 pups are taken to the kill and given first or more individuals. choice while the others stand guard until it is their turn. They rarely squabble over They are highly efficient opportunistic food, and when a dog falls ill, is injured predators, hunting early in the morning or or unable to hunt, the pack feeds it. This around dusk for medium-sized ruminants, behaviour gives them an advantage over or the young, ill or aged of larger species. competitors such as leopards and hyenas, In a typical hunt, the pack spreads out in a and only lions pose a significant threat. line to cover more ground and have space to manoeuvre. When they locate potential Although once found right across the prey they test its defences, probing a herd African continent, their main strongholds for any weak member. After singling out are now Botswana’s Okavango Delta, their quarry, they try to panic the herd Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools and the Selous and separate the target, then use speed in Tanzania. Wild dogs can cover 50 and stamina to chase it until it tires, kilometres in a day, so their territories are before bringing it down by sheer weight of large – up to 1,500 square kilometres – numbers. They communicate constantly to and they only stay in one location while let each other know their location and that denning. If you would like to see wild of their prey, while some perform flanking dogs for yourself, why not join our new movements to cut off escape routes; and, dedicated departures in Botswana’s as the lead dog tires, another takes its Okavango Delta and in Mana Pools place. This allows them to react rapidly, National Park in Zimbabwe, where you and their high success rate is due mainly have the opportunity to photograph these to this coordinated approach. magnificent animals on foot? Wild dog by Bret Charman, Mana Pools, Zimbabwe (main image) 24 Over 25 years’ experience of designing the finest wildlife holidays sales@wildlifeworldwide.com 01962 302055 www.wildlifeworldwide.com 25
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