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FREE MAPS ™ WHAT ’S ON in Wellington AUTUMN AN ESSENTIAL GUIDE WINTER 2019 Semiconductor Earthworks – City Gallery Wellington exhibition. See page 12 whatsoninwellington.co.nz
INTERACTIVE EXHIBITION PLANETARIUM MOVIES STAR SHOWS EVENTS COURSES OPEN DAYS – SAT & SUN OPEN NIGHTS – TUES, FRI, SAT (At the top of Cable Car) Wellington Botanical Gardens museumswellington.org.nz Part of Experience Wellington. Principal Funder Wellington City Council.
Welcome Contents Kia ora, and welcome to Wellington! Whether you’re a Wellingtonian born-and-bred, a business person stopping by for a meet and mingle event, or a first-time visitor with your family in tow, this little guide will inspire and inform you with ideas on how to fill your days and nights in this exceptional city. Get to know the city, make yourself at home and check out the events calendar (our Facebook page has many more events which we add to at least three times a week) and share your Wellington experiences or your secret and best of Wellington selections on our Facebook page and with your friends. Enjoy & happy travels! Contents Autumn & Winter in Wellington...................................... 02 Events Calendar – April.................................................... 04 Events Calendar – May..................................................... 06 Events Calendar – June.................................................... 08 Events Calendar – July..................................................... 10 Best of Wellington............................................................ 12 Wellington Naturally......................................................... 15 Wellington Airport............................................................ 16 Need to Know................................................................... 17 Guide to Wellington......................................................... 18 Wellington City Map......................................................... 20 Things to Do...................................................................... 22 Eat & Drink........................................................................ 28 Shopping............................................................................ 31 Beyond the City Limits..................................................... 32 Central Wellington Map................................................... 36 Cover Image: Semiconductor Earthworks (2016). City Gallery Wellington exhibition. © What’s On in Wellington 2019 Published by Travel Ink Ltd PO 58154, Whitby, Porirua, Wellington 5245. Phone: 021 490 157 www.whatsoninwellington.co.nz Find us on facebook.com/whatsoninwellington Tag us on instagram.com/whatsoninwellington #whatsoninwellington What’s On in Wellington is published three times a year by Travel Ink Ltd, an independent, Wellington-based publisher and is printed in Wellington by Wakefields Digital Ltd. Please get in touch if you’d like to be involved in the August–November edition. Distribution & Advertising: sales@whatsoninwellington.co.nz Editorial & Events: Astral Sligo, editor@whatsoninwellington.co.nz Graphic Design: Claudine Thompson, claude88@xtra.co.nz Travel Ink’s ‘What’s On in Wellington’ is copyright © Travel Ink Ltd. Travel Ink Ltd has made every endeavour to ensure accuracy of all material, but accepts no responsibility for consequences arising from errors or omissions. All images within this publication either belong to the event or activity promoter, are Travel Ink’s own, or are otherwise credited.
in Wellington AUTUMN & winter 2 ter, the temperatures The days may be shor y mess with your hair, cooler and the wind ma Autumn and Winter but Wellington in the d as friendly as ever. months is as lively an over the next few If you’re in Wellington in for a treat! months, you really are Laughing until your ribs ache and your cheeks are numb at comedy events; finding inspiration or nuance – or inspired nuance – at numerous galleries around the region; taking part in a fun run; getting to know the wildlife or nightlife of Wellington; falling in love with our history at a museum or at our historic places; people-watching on Cuba Street; savouring the best coffee or other brews; filling up on films and fandom; being as head-strong as the wind when you walk the waterfront; day trips to the coast or discovering ‘the Hutt’; celebrating Matariki – the Maori new year; cheering on your team or singing along at a gig – Wellington is where you want to be. Opera, symphonies, rock stars, jazzers, dancers, home-grown and theatre all take to the stage while some big-time sporting events will have the crowds roused. Don’t forget all the other unmissable things to see and do in the Wellington region including mountain biking and taking a hike up a hill to explore the glorious outdoor playground that is the Wellington region. Cuba Street ©Pivot Photography
3 ©CC NASA, PJ_1004 Matariki – Welcoming the Māori New Year Around the time of the winter solstice, the star cluster Matariki (also known as the Pleiades or Seven Sisters) appears in the north-eastern sky. According to the Māori calendar, the rising of the Matariki star cluster brings the old year to a close and marks the transition to spring. The new moon following the rising of Matariki heralds the Māori New Year. The literal translation of Matariki means either the ‘eyes of god’ (mata ariki) or ‘little eyes’ (mata riki). The best time to observe the rising of Matariki is in the phase of the moon known as Tangaroa – the moon of plenty. The Tangaroa moon phase occurs in the three or four days leading to a new moon. Traditionally, Matariki also signalled the end of the harvest and it was a time for remembering the dead, and – because food stocks were full – feasting and celebrating new life. Nowadays, Matariki is celebrated through various events that showcase Māori customary knowledge about the natural world as well as activities that symbolise renewal, reawakening and revival. In recent years, the weeks around Matariki have become a particularly New Zealand celebration of people, culture, language, spirituality, and history. It’s a time for whānau (family) and friends to come together to reflect on the past 12 months and look towards the year ahead. The customary Matariki activity of making and flying heaven- bound kites as an acknowledgement of deceased loved ones and ancestors has been revived. In Wellington, the city marks Matariki with a series of events. Although last year, the planned Matariki waterfront fireworks were postponed due to a young southern right whale visiting the harbour – he was named ‘Matariki’ by locals. Check for Matariki events: facebook.com/ whatsoninwellington/events
CALENDAR Calendar of Events of Events APRIL DAYLIGHT SAVINGS ENDS 7 APRIL GOOD FRIDAY (PUBLIC HOLIDAY) 19 APRIL EASTER MONDAY (PUBLIC HOLIDAY) 22 APRIL 4 ANZAC DAY (PUBLIC HOLIDAY) 25 APRIL WELLINGTON NIGHT NOODLE MARKET Ten nights filled with delicious street-style food, 5–14 exciting entertainment and the hustle and bustle of an authentic pop-up Asian Night Market. With authentic family-friendly entertainment, cuisine from top notch international and local vendors, and a fully licenced bar, this is the ultimate Asian pop-up market experience. Basin Reserve, Mount Cook,Wellington nightnoodlemarkets.nz Boyzone Wellington Thank You 10 Waterfront 12 & Goodnight Silent Disco Tour Adventure Tour After a quarter of a Take in the amazing waterfront of century together, the the Capital to a soundtrack of epic iconic Boyzone recently tunes. Expect all your inhibitions to announced it’s time evaporate away as you don hi-tech to say goodnight as headsets and bust some moves they prepare for their while dancing guides take you on a farewell tour of the UK. one hour adventure of this amazing TSB Arena, City. Wear comfy shoes and bring Queens Wharf. water and an open mind. Ticketmaster.co.nz booboomagoos.com FRIENDS WITHOUT BENEFITS Talking trash with friends never felt so 12 & 26 good, in this hilarious fast- paced interactive comedy show where experienced improvisers leap between smack talk on the couch and live improvised sketch. Get a drink and get lively, because in this living room, anything goes! Te Auaha, NZ Institute of Creativity, 65 Dixon St. basejumpimprov.co.nz ARTS & CULTURE COMMUNITY/FESTIVAL
Calendar of Events Armageddon Expo Wellington Meet pop culture TV and movie stars from 13–15 the fantasy, sci-fi and anime realms and participate in events such as Zombie Alley, Trading Card Tournaments, Hot Dog Eating Challenge and Cosplay costume events. This April School Holidays bring the family for three days of madness and mayhem at #Wellygeddon. Westpac Stadium, 105 Waterloo Quay, Wellington. armageddonexpo.com/ 5 Tim Minchin It’s hard to categorise Tim Minchin as just one 18–19 thing – maybe we’ll just say he’s brilliant. He’s an internationally renowned award-winning musician, comedian, actor, writer and he wrote writing the music and lyrics for the multiple award-winning West End show, “Matilda the Musical.” “Not only is Tim Minchin outrageously funny, he is also a beautiful singer and pianist. His piano solos are enough on their own to warrant the entry price.”– The Daily Telegraph. Michael Fowler Centre, 111 Wakefield St. ticketmaster.co.nz Wellington Phoenix VS 21 Peter Pan Take a 24–26 Melbourne City FC fairy tale The 2018/19 season is flight to Neverland in coming to an end – can the the swashbuckling family Nix muster up the strength adventure Peter Pan and join to take a last minute win against Melbourne City? our high-flying hero as he encounters evil pirates, Lost Westpac Stadium, Kids, a very hungry crocodile 105 Waterloo Quay. wellingtonphoenix.com and Captain Hook. With barrel-loads of laughter, a ship-full of magic and fairy dust, this is plenty of fun for kids and adults alike. Hannah Playhouse, 12 Cambridge Terrace. hannahplayhouse.org.nz Norah Jones Nine-time Grammy 24 International winner Norah Jones returns to New Zealand Dance Day 28 after 14 years. Her career- A day celebrating spanning set will mix jazz, movement to music in all its country, folk and rock with forms with plenty of kid-friendly her beguiling voice. dance workshops, films and TSB Arena, Queens Wharf. performances. frontiertouring.com/ Te Papa, 55 Cable St. norahjones. internationaldanceday.org.nz MUSIC FAMILY COMEDY OUTDOORS
CALENDAR Calendar of Events of Events MAY 6 HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY TO OUR MUMS! 12 May Kiss The Sky The New Zealand Dance Company 01 (NZDC) forges its stellar national and international reputation for powerful contemporary dance with its first national tour of Kiss The Sky, “a diverse magical experience” that “grabs your attention from start to finish.” This Asian-Pacific constellation of original dance, music, and design, reflecting will leave you dreaming for more. The Opera House, 111–113 Manners St. nzdc.org.nz CATS The One of 3&6 Proclaimers Scottish twins Craig 10 the world’s best-loved musicals, Cats and Charlie Reid and their is based on Old Possum’s talented band bring their Book of Practical Cats by T. fantastic live set including hits S. Eliot. The musical tells the like I’m Gonna Be (500 Miles), story of a tribe of cats called I’m On My Way, Sunshine on the Jellicles and the night Leith, Letter From America and they make what is known King Of The Road; as well as as “the Jellicle choice” and material from their acclaimed decide which cat will ascend new album Angry Cyclist. NZ to the Heaviside Layer and singer-songwriter Mel Parsons come back to a new life. will open the night. Michael Fowler Centre, Michael Fowler Centre, 111 Wakefield St. 111 Wakefield St. ticketmaster.co.nz ticketmaster.co.nz Edith & George: in our sea of UNTIL islands With 100 years separating them, photographers 26 Edith Amituanai (b. 1980 Auckland) and George Robson Crummer (b. 1868 Auckland, d. 1953 Rarotonga) each captured moments in time from their Pacifica communities. See page 25. New Zealand Portrait Gallery, Shed 11, Wellington Waterfront ARTS & CULTURE COMMUNITY/FESTIVAL
Calendar of Events The Greater Wellington BrewDay BrewDay allows you enjoy a fantastic selection of craft beer and food from the Greater Wellington Region - all 11 under one roof! Brewtown, 23 Blenheim St, Upper Hutt. cmnzl.co.nz/brewday The Mousetrap The West End’s legendary murder mystery 8–19 drama The Mousetrap is the longest-running show, of any kind, in the world. Written by the best-selling novelist of all time, Dame Agatha Christie, The Mousetrap has kept audiences guessing for six decades. It’s an atmosphere of shuddering suspense and a brilliantly intricate plot where 7 murder lurks around every corner. The tension is razor sharp: everyone is a suspect; everyone a potential victim. But who will be next, and who is the killer? The Opera House, 111–113 Manners St. themousetrap.co.nz The Wellington Food Show Whether you love to cook, or simply just love to eat, The Wellington Food Show will 24–26 expand your taste buds and reinvigorate your passion for food. Sample new flavours from over 180 exhibitors and grab show-only deals you can’t get anywhere else. Westpac Stadium, 105 Waterloo Quay. Foodshow.co.nz NZ Art Show FROM The largest exhibition and sale of original and affordable art by emerging and established New Zealand artists. It’s a visual feast for art lovers and 30 those interested in purchasing original New Zealand Art at affordable prices; the average sale price is $680. TSB Arena, Queens Wharf. Artshow.co.nz Black Swan, White Swan The Royal New Zealand Ballet presents a daring 31 retelling of ballet’s most enduring classic, Swan Lake. A deeply personal take on the classic love story, we follow Siegfried, tormented by sickness, battling his mortality. Caught between two women, the black swan and the white, he struggles with ideal love, pure evil, temptation, and most of all, himself. Runs until 2nd June. The Opera House, 111–113 Manners St. rnzb.org.nz MUSIC FAMILY COMEDY OUTDOORS
CALENDAR Calendar of Events of Events JUNE Queens Birthday (public Holiday) 3 June 8 MATARIKI RISING 25–28 June Wellington Jazz Festival Five days of serious play bring the sounds and spirit 5–9 of jazz to the capital’s streets, cafes, bars and live music venues. Jazz legend Herbie Hancock headlines this year’s programme which will enthrall jazz aficionados and intrepid newcomers with more than 100 gigs across the city. Various venues around Wellington. West Side Story One of the most celebrated musicals of all time is 6–16 a modern retelling of Romeo and Juliet. This tragic love story tells the tale of two young people whose happiness is destroyed by the hate of two enemy camps in New York City’s urban jungle. The Opera House, 111–113 Manners St. ticketmaster.co.nz The Monkees The Monkees’ Michael Nesmith and Micky Dolenz will 10 delight fans with back-to-back hits spanning more than 50 years. Michael Fowler Centre, 111 Wakefield St. ticketmaster.co.nz Cellfish Eight counts of unlawful entry using imagination, 11–16 five counts of reckless use of Maori mythology, four counts possession and cultivation of Shakespeare, and one count dangerous operation of a voice class...This wicked dark comedy explores the lives of a unit of hardened inmates at a men’s prison. Starring highly acclaimed actors Jason Te Kare and Carrie Green, Cellfish gives agency to the voiceless. Hannah Playhouse, 12 Cambridge Tce. hannahplayhouse.org.nz ARTS & CULTURE COMMUNITY/FESTIVAL
Calendar of Events Professor Brian Cox Using state of the art graphics and imagery from 11 ground-based telescopes and space probes, Brian will explore the latest missions to the planets, the nature of space and time from the Big Bang to black holes and the origin and fate of life and intelligence in the Universe. He will also address questions about the value of science, how we acquire scientific knowledge and why we should trust it. TSB Arena, Queens Wharf. ticketmaster.co.nz Hurricanes v Set Mo Blues 15 Celebrating the release 15 9 Join Wellington’s of their brilliant debut Hurricanes for Fan album, one of Australia’s Appreciation Night when most loved electronic acts will The Auckland Blues come have electronic music lovers to Wellington for our last enthralled as they bring live home round robin match of singers on the road along with a the 2019 campaign. mixture of unique analog gear, Westpac Stadium, visuals and lighting design. 105 Waterloo Quay. Meow, 9 Edward St. Ticketrocket.co.nz meow.nz Matariki Glow Show The delightful story of te kāhui whetu õ Matariki 17–19 (the star cluster/ sisters of Matariki) as they prepare for Te Tau Hou (Māori New Year) and the journey of the smallest star, Waipuna-a-Rangi. A giant scale puppet show for 5–9 year olds with magical glow-in-the-dark characters from Māori myth and legend. Soundings Theatre, Te Papa, 55 Cable St. ticketek.com Threepenny Opera In a world where evil goes unpunished, 22–29 money is corrupt, law is fickle and lowly souls remain on the poverty line, roams London’s most notorious criminal, Mackheath ‘Mack the Knife’. This theatre challenges the audience to reflect on their own beliefs and behaviour towards the poor and the underprivileged of our society. Famous for its exceptional musical score (which includes opening number ‘Mack the Knife’) and for its in-your-face realism, this is theatre with an edge and a healthy dose of cynical parody to get everyone thinking. Hannah Playhouse, 12 Cambridge Tce. hannahplayhouse.org.nz Wellington Marathon The fast, flat, scenic route around Wellington’s 30 spectacular waterfront creates an occasion for all with a Full Marathon, Half Marathon, 10k and the Kids’ Magic Mile. You might even win a Volkswagen Polo car or a trip to the New Caledonia Marathon! Westpac Stadium, 105 Waterloo Quay. wellingtonmarathon.co.nz MUSIC FAMILY COMEDY OUTDOORS
CALENDAR Calendar of Events of Events JULY 10 JULY SCHOOL HOLIDAYS 6th–21st july The Barber of Seville One of the craziest operatic comedies ever 2, 4, 6 written. Rossini’s razor-sharp musical wit delivers in riotous technicolour. Dashing Count Almaviva is in love with the feisty young Rosina. But her guardian, Dr Bartolo, is determined to marry her himself. Cue Figaro – also known as The Barber of Seville – with a series of hare-brained schemes, one of which just might work. The Opera House, 111–113 Manners St. nzopera.com Room On the Broom Based on the award winning 12–14 picture book by Julia Donaldson & Axel Scheffler, telling the story of a kind witch who invites a collection of animals to join her on her broom, though her cat thinks it will get too crowded. When a hungry dragon appears, who will save the poor witch? And will there ever be room on the broom for everyone? The team behind The Gruffalo and The 13-Storey Treehouse return with songs, laughs and scary fun for children aged 3 and up – and their grown-ups! The Opera House, 111–113 Manners St. Ticketmaster.co.nz ARTS & CULTURE COMMUNITY/FESTIVAL
Calendar of Events Mātauranga Mātauranga, by Wellington-based Michael Norris, was 13 commissioned as part of the NZSO Cook’s Landfall Series to mark 250 years since the first encounters between Māori and Europeans at Captain Cook’s first landfall. Featuring taonga pūoro–Māori 11 musical instruments, it conveys Cook’s journey to study the stars, flora, fauna and chart continents and islands. Other works presented tonight are from Beethoven, Mendelssohn, Mozart, Nielsen and Argentinian composer Osvaldo Golijov. Michael Fowler Centre, 111 Wakefield St. Nzso.co.nz London Calling – The Clash Tribute Show 23 The UK’s Premiere Tribute to The Clash, London Calling, Celebrate the 40th Anniversary of the double masterpiece “London Calling” (Train in Vain, London Calling, Clampdown, Guns of Brixton etc) by playing it in Full and in Sequence. Plus other Hits – Should I Stay or Should I Go, Rock The Casbah, White Man in Hammersmith Palais, White Riot, Tommy Gun plus more. San Fran, 171 Cuba St. ticketmaster.co.nz Festival for The Future Festival for the Future is a remarkable 26–28 weekend of inspiring speakers, future-focused panels, workshops and a marketplace for great ideas. The Festival is a chance to hear from a diverse range of thought-leaders from a range of different sectors on the mega trends and big issues of our time and learn how you can make a real difference for our future. TSB Arena, Queens Wharf, Wellington. festivalforthefuture.org.nz MUSIC FAMILY COMEDY OUTDOORS
BEST OF Best of Wellington Wellington 12 © Zoom Photography The Best International Art Exhibitions Stars align as City Gallery exhibits two acclaimed international artists side by side. Don’t miss this double helping of spectacular international art. Free entry. Semiconductor: The Technological Sublime, Until 14 July 2019 Semiconductor – UK artist duo Ruth Jarman and Joe Gerhardt – produce spectacular, large-scale moving-image works that extend our experience and understanding of the world through the lens of scientific technology, making the invisible visible. Many of their works have resulted from collaborations with prestigious science agencies, including NASA, CERN, the Smithsonian, and the Charles Darwin Research Station in the Galapagos Islands. The show’s central video installation Earthworks (2016), uses data from real-world volcanoes, glaciers, and earthquakes – including the 2016 Kaikoura quake. Other works take data from the ultrabig to the ultrasmall, from activity on the surface of the sun to the movement of subatomic particles. Eva Rothschild: Kosmos, 6 April–28 July 2019 A giant punching bag, a decorated concrete-block barricade, an upholstered play space, a disco décor curtain, and a surveillance video of young boys demolishing and repurposing art. London- based sculptor Eva Rothschild puts her own spin on the modern- sculpture tradition, using eclectic forms and novel materials. Eva Rothschild is representing Ireland at this year’s Venice Biennale, the world’s most important contemporary art exhibition. Venue: City Gallery Wellington, Te Ngākau, Civic Square Contact: +64 4 913 9032 citygallery.org.nz See page 22 Semiconductor Earthworks 2016. Eva Rothschild: Kosmos, ACCA, Melbourne, 2018.
Best of Wellington The Best Way to See the Sights & Sites Wellington is known for being a compact and vibrant city, and Walk Wellington gives guests a personal introduction to the heart and soul of the 13 city. The enthusiastic and knowledgeable local guides will show you the key historical and cultural sights and reveal stories about Wellington’s past, present, people and places – with insights you won’t find in the guidebooks. The easy-paced 2.5 hour walk begins at the i-SITE Visitor Centre in front of the Michael Fowler Centre, 111 Wakefield Street (look for the guide in green). You’ll visit historic sites including Old Government Building, Parliament grounds, the Supreme Court and Old St Paul’s. Walks depart at 10am daily, rain or shine (except on Good Friday and Christmas Day). Walkers are advised to wear comfortable shoes and dress for the weather. From December through March, evening guided walks run from 5pm on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and last 1.5 to 2 hours. Personalised group tours can be arranged to suit any size group; please email at least 4 weeks in advance. Bookings: at the i-SITE or on walkwellington.org.nz Email: information@walkwellington.org.nz Web: walkwellington.org.nz Cost: Adults $20, children 5–16 years $10. Did you know that Wellington has a Time- Machine? Located up in the Attic at Wellington Museum amongst all the curiosities and historical objects of Wellington’s colourful past is a Time-Machine! It’s called Nga Hau (in Māori it means the four winds of Tawhirimatea – North, South, East and West) and it is a wonder of ingenuity and creativity. This six-sided, Victorian time-machine is located in a darkly lit, steampunk themed laboratory – you can imagine famous Inventors like Thomas Edison and Alexander Bell tinkering away at the controls to get this time machine to work. And boy, does this time machine work! - as you travel through Wellington’s past from the Big Bang to the future in 14 minutes. Pretty quick for covering over 2000+ years! It’s a stunning visual installation created by Perpetual Engineering and it’s just one of many weird and wonderful exhibits up in the Attic at Wellington Museum where many other interesting stories of Wellington’s past (and also future) are waiting to be discovered. Venue: 3 Jervois Quay, Queens Wharf, Wellington Contact: museumswellington.org.nz
Best of Wellington BEST NIGHTLIFE Sometimes you can see more after dark! Explore ZEALANDIA in a guided torchlight tour in search of some of the more distinctive sights and sounds of New Zealand’s native forest. See unique species such as wētā, glow worms, and tuatara. 14 Your group may see some of the 130 little spotted kiwi who call this sanctuary home - sightings of kiwi are common on these tours (80% possibility), but are not guaranteed. Gain insights into New Zealand’s natural history and the significance of the unique species within Māori culture. The tour ends with a replenishing cup of hot kawakawa tea in the Visitors Centre. These nightly tours are 2.5 hours long and bookings are essential! Contact: visitzealandia.com BEST INDOOR THINGS TO DO Whatever the weather, it’s good to schedule some indoor time. Here’s a couple of ideas to keep for a rainy or sunny day. Discover a world where board games are far more than Snakes and Ladders or Guess Who at Counter Culture (page 23). Our favourite games: Ticket To Ride for ages 12–120; Carcassonne Junior for ages 6 and up, and Onitama as a quick Chess alternative. Free guided tours of Parliament are available on the hour from 10am to 4pm seven days a week except 25th and 26th December, 1st and 2nd January, Waitangi Day (6th February). Bookings advised: +64 4 817 9503. Your informative guide will show you a room dedicated to Maori discourse and political expression and reveal how the whole building is ‘floating’ on a suspension system for reducing oscillations during an earthquake. Contact: parliament.nz/en/visit-and-learn/visit/guided-tours Counter Culture
WELLINGTON Naturally Wellington Naturally Sometimes the best things about a city are not the obvious iconic highlights, but the little things that locals savour, and guests delight in finding. 15 Mother Nature rocks the Wellington party This is not so much a secret, but it is the oft-forgotten highlight of that whole culture-coffee-craft-beer- cool capital spiel. The harbour city capital allows its residents and guests enviable access to a real outdoorsy lifestyle – walk along the waterfront stopping at cafes and markets, take a ferry to Matiu Island have a picnic on the beach, take a Zealandia ©Judi Lapsley Miller hike or a bike across the hills or along the coast, meander the incredible Botanic Gardens or explore a unique and extraordinary eco-sanctuary just 2km outside of the city centre. The city of Wellington is hugged by 400 hectares of forest and reserve land, known as The Town Belt, which stretches from Mount Victoria in the north-east, around to Berhampore at its southern end, then reaches north-west all the way to near Wadestown. This continuous tree-lined stretch not only separates the inner city from some of Wellington’s outer suburbs, it is also allows on- the-go commuters or lunchtime runners and hikers a chance to get up and away from the city – incorporating lifestyle and leisure with stunning views.
WELLINGTON Wellington Airport AIRPORT 16 If you’ve just flown into Wellington, you may have been lucky enough to have a window seat and glimpsed the city and its stunning surrounds. Wellington Airport is an arrival and departure point for many international and domestic flights. Flights from Wellington Airport depart to central and regional airports nationwide and have a rapidly growing international network including Sydney, Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne continuing to Singapore, and Nadi (Fiji). As well as being a transit point, the airport has become a bit of a destination, due to the installation of some significant Hobbit themed sculptures throughout the terminal. You can snap a photo of Smaug or Gandalf the Grey and the Great Eagles and easily upload it to social media thanks to the free Wellington Airport Wi-Fi. The airport has numerous retail stores where you can pick up essential items such as sim cards, or New Zealand produced gifts, clothing and cosmetics. Coffee outlets vie to provide travellers with a caffeine fix, and there are plenty of options to enjoy a quick and healthy bite to eat, or enjoy a relaxed meal and beverage while watching the planes take off and land. Travel options to and from Wellington Airport include taxis, shuttle buses and Airport Flyer Bus that travels into Wellington city and then on to Lower Hutt (departs every 10 minutes on weekdays from 6.30–9am and 2–7pm; every 20 minutes at all other times), as well as rental vehicles, which may be picked up and dropped off at the airport or nearby. Wellington International Airport Stewart Duff Drive, Rongotai, Wellington Phone: +64 4 385 5100 (24 hrs) Visit www.wellingtonairport.co.nz to view the status of arrivals and departures.
NEED TO Need to Know KNOW Wellington Beehive © zoomphotography.co.nz 17 Driving To/From Wellington Airport From the Airport: If you are travelling north and to the city from the airport, follow the signs to the city, go through the Mt Victoria tunnel, around the Basin Reserve cricket ground and follow the signs to either the city or north towards State Highway (SH1). This leaves the CBD and follows alongside the harbour then, at the Ngauranga interchange, SH1 veers left and continues north (via Porirua and Kapiti). SH2 continues straight ahead to Hutt Valley and Wairarapa. From the City: The airport is located about 15–20 minutes southeast of the city and is accessible via a tunnel beneath Mt Victoria to Kilbirnie. Alternatively, you can take the scenic route via Oriental Bay and Point Jerningham. Allow 30 minutes during peak times. Sailing between the North and South Islands If you’re travelling to the South Island by car or campervan, you’ll need to book a ferry across the Cook Strait to Picton. There are two operators: Bluebridge Cook Strait Ferry (50 Waterloo Quay), phone 0800 844 844, and Interislander (1 Aotea Quay), phone 0800 802 802. Wellington Public Transport For all bus, train, cable car and city ferry information, contact Metlink, freephone 0800 801 700, visit www.metlink.org.nz The Airport Flyer is an express route that travels between Lower Hutt, Wellington City and Airport. Emergencies – Police, Fire and Ambulance: phone 111 Wellington Hospital – Riddiford Street, Newtown, phone 04 385 5999. Hutt Hospital – High Street, Lower Hutt, phone 04 566 6999. Wellington Central Police Station – Cnr Victoria & Harris Streets, phone 04 381 2000. Visitor Information Wellington i-SITE Visitor Centre – 111 Wakefield Street (Outside the Michael Fowler Centre), Wellington, phone 04 802 4860. www.WellingtonNZ.com
Guide TO Guide to Wellington WELLINGTON 18 Mt Victoria view ©wellingtonnz - photo Capture Studios Wellington’s waterfront CBD & Harbour Wellington city is nestled between bush-clad hills and a lively waterfront that can be seen as almost a microcosm of the city at large – packed with heritage buildings, cultural activities, parks, public art, bars and restaurants. The waterfront also serves as one of the quickest ways to get from one side of the city to the other. Wellington’s nearly circular harbour is about 10 kilometres in diameter. On the water you’ll see kayaks, sail boats, harbour ferries, inter-island ferries and international cruise ships. During British settlement, Matiu (Somes Island) was a quarantine station then was used as an internment camp during both world wars; now it has evolved to become part of the conservation estate with more than 90,000 trees planted. Rats and other pests have been eradicated and the 25-hectare island is now home to tuatara, weta and native birds such as kakariki (parrots). Central Wellington Wellington’s beautiful Botanic Garden nestles between Kelburn (where some of Victoria University campus is located) and Thorndon. Take the cable car up from the CBD’s Lambton Quay and meander back down to the city through the Botanic Garden and Bolton Street cemetery. Historic Thorndon is home to New Zealand’s Parliament Buildings, antique shops, and Bolton St Cemetery where amongst many others Samuel Parnell, the man who popularised the eight-hour working day, and Wellington’s founder, William Wakefield, are buried. It’s a bit of a case of ‘looking at you looking at me’ with one of the central city’s oldest suburbs. Perched on the flank of a hill, the suburb of Mt Victoria is one of Wellington’s most photographed and is the location of a lookout where you’re able to get a full perspective on inner city Wellington and harbour. Nestled just beneath Mt Vic is the beautiful stretch of Oriental Bay where golden sands and shallow (warm) waters invite summer swims and the broad sidewalk is made for leisurely strolls – just be mindful of all the runners, cyclists and in-line skaters who also use this world-class promenade.
Wellington suburbs Guide to Wellington Just minutes from downtown Wellington, lies bush-clad Karori and Zealandia – the eco-sanctuary brimming with New Zealand’s rarest wildlife (see page 27). In the same vicinity, mountain bikers will find 250 hectares of nirvana and spectacular views at Makara Peak. The Basin Reserve (where thousands will enjoy watching the cricket over summer) acts as a giant roundabout between Newtown and much of the city. This eclectic suburb is home to the hospital, hipsters, ethnic eateries and the zoo. A creative hub, not just for the film and screen industry (for this is where Weta is based), but also for painters, photographers and 19 up-cyclers, Miramar has a lovely buzz and some great eateries to plonk yourself in and enjoy culinary flare – perhaps after an afternoon on the arts trail. Greater Wellington Often referred to as ‘the Hutt’, the Hutt Valley comprises Lower Hutt (24km north of Wellington), Petone and Upper Hutt (39km north of Wellington). New Zealand’s first suburb, Petone is home to a lively café culture bolstered by a heady mix of artisan food producers, galleries, boutique shops, and outlet stores. Porirua is largely formed around the arms of the Porirua Harbour and the coastline facing out to Cook Strait. It is home to Pataka Art + Museum, one of New Zealand’s leading galleries of Maori, Pacific and New Zealand contemporary art. A little over an hour from Wellington by car or train, the region Wellingtonians refer to as ‘just over the hill’ has a relaxed rural pace nicely mixed with a world-class wine scene. Within the charming townships of the Wairarapa region, you’ll find delicious gourmet produce, vineyards to visit (look for Martinborough’s famed Pinot Noir), quaint village shops, cafés and boutique accommodation. Wellington KEY Region Map Districts = Blue Towns = Green KAPITI COAST Otaki Kapiti Island Waikanae Masterton UPPER HUTT CITY Paraparaumu MASTERTON Carterton PORIRUA CITY Greytown HUTT CITY CARTERTON Martinborough WELLINGTON CITY SOUTH WAIRARAPA © What’s On in Wellington 2019
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Things to Do Things to Do 22 Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa Tongarewa For such a compact city, New Zealand’s capital is crammed with so many ways to spend your time that it may be difficult to decide what to see and do first. Plan your visit and create your Wellington itinerary from the following pages of cultural attractions, heritage highlights, natural wonders and scenic tours. Cable Car Museum Experience the original Winding House and climb aboard one of the famous ’relentless red rattlers’. Discover the unique system that has transported people between the harbour and the hills for more than a century. The store is known for its uniquely Wellington gifts and souvenirs. 1A Upland Rd, Kelburn Open 9.30am – 5pm daily. Free Entry. Ph: +64 4 475 3578 museumswellington.org.nz cablecar@experiencewellington.org.nz City Gallery Wellington Join us for a double helping of spectacular international art: Semiconductor and Eva Rothschild. City Gallery is the capital’s public contemporary art gallery, also offering a busy events calendar of tours, talks, film, and live music. Open daily 10am–5pm and until Te Ngākau Civic Square, CBD 10pm on the first Thursday of each Ph. +64 4 913 9032 month. Free entry. citygallery.org.nz
Things to Do COUNTER CULTURE Choose from over 600 different board games and enjoy some of Wellington’s fine food, coffee and craft beers at Counter Culture Board Game Cafe & Bar. Fun and games for all ages! Open daily until late. Bookings highly recommended for weekends & evenings. $5 to play. $2.50 for kids. Come get your game on! Our 211 Victoria St, Wellington friendly staff are keen to help you try something new. +64 4 891 2345 counterculture.co.nz 23 East By West Ferries Take the East By West ferry to Matiu Somes Island and take a picnic lunch, explore the historical sites and maybe spot some tuatara and weta. Or head over to Days Bay and experience the beaches, fine food and galleries. Rent a bike and cycle out to the Pencarrow lighthouse or rent a kayak and play in the bay. See advert page 33. 1 Queens Wharf, Ph: +64 4 499 1282 eastbywest.co.nz THE ULTIMATE WAY TO SEE NZ ANIMALS LIVING WILD
Things to Do Katherine Mansfield House & GARDEN Discover the home of internationally famous author Katherine Mansfield. The 1888 house and heritage garden are beautifully restored, there is a small shop and throughout the year, exhibitions, documentaries and tours are held. For admission fees and opening 25 Tinakori Rd, Thorndon times during public holidays, please visit the website. 24 Ph: +64 4 473 7268 katherinemansfield.com Mud Cycles Wrapped in a green belt of parks & tracks, Wellington offers mountain bikers breathtaking views, varied landscapes & exhilarating rides through a network of purpose- built trails. Mud Cycles at Makara Peak offers bike hire accessing more than 40km of tracks through beautiful natural bush & along 424 Karori Road, Karori ridge tops giving spectacular Ph: +64 4 476 4961 views of the city, Cook Strait & the mudcycles.co.nz South Island. Nairn Street Cottage Take a trip into surburban Wellington and you will find an original cottage. The cottage exhibition reflects three generations of the Wallis family who must have arrived with some wealth to afford land that is today considered a small plot, but would have been a significant size in 1858 when the cottage was built. The cottage has a heritage garden that reflects many existing local gardens with chickens 68 Nairn St, Mount Cook and bees. Enjoy a guided tour on the Ph: +64 4 384 9122 hour. Visit museumswellington.org.nz cottage@experiencewellington.org.nz for full information. Eastbourne © Jeff McEwan
Things to Do 25 ©wellingtonnz New Zealand Portrait Gallery The New Zealand Portrait Gallery Te Pūkenga Whakaata tells the stories of New Zealanders through the art of portraiture. Open Daily 10.30am – 4.30pm Free Entry Shed 11, Queen’s Wharf Ph: +64 4 472 2298 nzportraitgallery.org.nz
Things to Do Ship ‘n’ Chip Tour Explore Wellington on and off shore, from its islands to its icons. Begin the day with a guided tour through Wellington Museum. For lunch, indulge in a classic kiwi favourite, fish’n’chips, before setting sail across the harbour to visit Matiu/Somes Island, where you’ll be free to explore at your leisure before returning to the city. Daily tours, book via email Departs Wellington Museum museumtours@experiencewellington.org.nz 26 wellingtonmuseum.org.nz Space place At Space Place you can find out how stars are used by New Zealanders and our role in worldwide space exploration. View hourly planetarium shows in the dome theatre that take you beyond the skies seen with the naked eye. Space Place offers live presentations of the night sky unique to New Zealand, a space © Mark Gee exhibition and tuhuna module for Carter Observatory children to play and explore. It’s 40 Salamanca Rd, Kelburn great fun for everyone. Ph: +64 4 910 3140 See advert inside front cover. Staglands Wildlife Reserve & Café Staglands offers visitors the unique and exciting opportunity to connect with nature in a beautiful, natural environment. Feed and freely interact with wildlife in this very special place – the product of one man’s passion and vision to experience nature at its best. Located in the scenic Akatarawa Valley, Staglands is a 2362 Akatarawa Valley, ‘must see’ attraction for visitors to Upper Hutt the Wellington region. staglands.co.nz See advert page 25. Mt Victoria © Pivot Photography Mt-Victoria-176-credit-pivot-photography.jpg
Recommended by Lonely Planet, Rough Guide and Frommer’s New Zealand. Group Walks: We can schedule a walking tour for your group with a time and route of your choice. Great for conferences, school trips & group tours. Things to Do Walk Wellington Minimum charges apply. Please allow at least 4 weeks to arrange group walks. Contact us at walkwellington@xtra.co.nz (04) 473 3145 Join a 2.5 hour guided walk through the central city learning about Wellington’s history and culture from local residents. Visit WalkWgtn Flyer 2010.indd 2 4/08/10 10:50 AM historic sights including the Old Government Buildings, Waterfront, Supreme Court and Old St Paul’s. Departing rain or shine from the i-SITE; look for the guide in the bright green vest. Departs i-SITE See more on page 13. Visitor Centre, walkwellington.org.nz Discover 27 Wellington Wellington Museum “Amazing Museum. Everyone who visits Wellington should visit.” Visitor 2018. Different from Te Papa, this Museum reflects the local history of Wellington through quirky and curious stories. Here you will find theatre illusionistic techniques that tell Māori creation legends, prized taonga and contemporary work from Māori artists and poets, alongside European settlement and the development of the Capital City 3 Jervois Quay, of New Zealand. Queens Wharf museumtours@experiencewellington.org.nz See advert inside back page. Zealandia The world’s first fully-fenced ecosanctuary, ZEALANDIA is an interactive conservation project with an extraordinary 500-year vision. This wildlife safe haven is one of the few places to see many rare and endangered native animals living wild in their natural environment. To make the most of your visit take a guided tour and Waiapu Rd, Karori see beautiful and elusive wildlife. Ph:+64 4 920 9213 See advert page 23. visitzealandia.com
EAT & Eat & Drink DRINK 28 Crumpet 22 © Pivot Photography Chow Located in the heart of Wellington’s CBD, Chow offers fresh, fast, Modern Asian cuisine in a relaxed environment. Both vegan and vegetarian-friendly with dairy and gluten-free options and a beverage list designed around the flavours that come from our kitchen. Open 7 days Noon-Midnight 45 Tory Street, Wellington (Until 1am on Saturday) Ph: +64 4 382 8585 chow.co.nz Fratelli At Fratelli the concept is fresh Italian. It takes bits of the old traditional Italian cooking styles and assembles them with new modern ideas, with a menu that changes seasonally ensuring only the freshest ingredients are used. Fratelli specialises in 100% homemade pasta, gnocchi, risotto, 15 Blair St, Wellington and pizza from the wood-fired oven. Ph: +64 4 801 6615 Open Monday–Saturday from fratelli.net.nz 5.30pm onwards.
Eat & Drink Olive Olive has been a favourite spot for Wellingtonians for almost two decades. We serve quality handmade food for breakfast & lunch from 8am Monday to Friday, and dinner from 5.30pm Tuesday to Saturday. On the weekends we’re brunching it up from 8am until 3pm. Olive’s menu honours the seasons and utilises quality ingredients from 170 Cuba St, Wellington as close to home as possible. See advert page 30. Ph: +64 4 802 5266 oliverestaurant.co.nz 29 River Cottage Café Nestled beside the Otaki river, historic River Cottage Café is open 7 days from 8am–4pm. Meet with family and friends or book a business lunch to enjoy our delicious menu and fresh cabinet food. Families are well catered for with indoor and outdoor toys for the kids. Browse our gift shop for a special card or perhaps some pottery. 3 State Highway 1, Otaki Ph: +64 6 364 6359 The Library Hidden away upstairs in the heart of Courtenay Place sits The Library. Fun & frivolous cocktails, exquisite & obscure wines, delicious desserts, exceptional cheese & scrumptious savoury snacks. This is a great place to meet before or after a show. The Library has live music Friday & Sunday evenings. Open: Mon-Thurs 5pm-late, Fri-Sun 4pm-late. 53 Courtenay Pl, Wellington Ph: +64 4 382 8593 thelibrary.co.nz ©Olive
Eat & Drink 30 Thai Chef’s Restaurant Join us at Thai Chef’s Restaurant for a refined dining experience in the Royal Thai Cuisine style. In 2013 we have received the Thai Select Label Premium Award (5 star) from the Royal Thai Government in recognition of the quality and authenticity of our cuisine. Dine in or takeaways 1 Blair Street, Wellington available. Open for lunch Tuesday Ph: +64 4 385 4535 to Friday and dinner 7 nights thaichef.co.nz from 5.30pm. See back cover. A collection of contemporary dining areas for Dinner, Corporate functions, Private events & cocktail functions in the garden 04 802 5266 170-172 Cuba St Tues-Sat 8am-late Sun & Mon 8am-3pm Breakfast, Brunch, Lunch, Dinner, Functions, Boutique Wine, Craft beer & Secret Garden. oliverestaurant.co.nz info@oliverestaurant.co.nz
SHOPPING Shopping 31 Souvenir Factory Shop More than just a factory outlet store! While giving you the best deals you’d expect from an outlet store, this unique shop also offers a large range of quality souvenir gifts at prices you’ll love. You’ll be sure to find something to suit your needs and price range. Located just five minutes’ drive from the Airport and Weta Cave. 32 Tauhinu Rd, Miramar Open: Monday–Friday, 9am–5pm; Ph: +64 4 388 1391 Saturday and Sunday, 10am–4pm. souvenirfactoryshop.co.nz More than a FACTORY OUTLET STORE While giving you the best deals that you would expect from an outlet store, this unique shop also offers you a large range of quality souvenir gifts at prices you will love.
Beyond the City Limits MIRAMARture 32 Pretty as a pic www.miramarpeninsula.org.nz Located at the south-eastern end of Wellington, Miramar is the centre of attention when it comes to New Zealand’s movie making prowess. The word Miramar is Spanish for ‘behold the sea’, and visitors to Miramar Peninsula will soon know why. Sandy beaches, secluded rocky coves, mountain bike tracks and bush walks up to hill-top picnic spots with unrivalled views make this part of Wellington a top location for locals and visitors alike. The highest point on the peninsula is Mt Crawford at 163 metres. At the southern end of the peninsula, Strathmore Park boasts some of the best views towards the South Island. Top movie producers, directors and stars beat a regular path to Miramar. It started with the Oscar-sweeping Lord of the Rings’ trilogy, directed by famous home-town boy Sir Peter Jackson and enhanced by the technical wizardry of Weta Workshop. Later came King Kong, Avatar, The Lovely Bones and The Hobbit trilogy. Jackson and his team are responsible for creating a hub of multi-million dollar studios, sound stages, pre- and post-production facilities in Miramar. Nearby, Shelly Bay has a fascinating history as the site of a Submarine Mining Depot Barracks built in 1887, which then became a navy base (1907– 46) and then was designated the air force base from 1946 until 1995. The military base buildings are now used to house a film props company, a gym, art studios, and the wonderful Chocolate Fish café where you can enjoy a barbequed seafood late lunch and catch the afternoon sun.
Experience the best of Wellington with a cruise on the city’s unique Harbour Ferry Service Wellington looks stunning from the harbour. With the fresh sea breeze and friendly crew at your side who would miss soaking up this priceless experience from the comfort of one of two Dominion Post Ferries WELLINGTON - MATIU SOMES ISLAND - DAYS BAY E: info@eastbywest.co.nz P: 04 499 1282 www.eastbywest.co.nz
Beyond the City Limits Porirua e land 34 Get the lay of th Less than half an hour’s drive north of Wellington city, the Porirua region is a haven for those seeking a breath of fresh air and the prospect of a day exploring mountain bike and walking trails. Home to Pataka Art + Museum, the city of Porirua is formed around the arms of the Porirua Harbour. The coastline faces out to Cook Strait and on a clear, fine day you can admire the north-eastern tip of the South Island. The surrounding hills of Porirua offer some of the most spectacular views of the region and lower North Island. Rolling hills clad with native bush, coastal views, ridge-line trails, wetland areas, historic quirky boatsheds, serene reservoirs, cafes, and walking and cycle tracks for all levels – the diversity of landscape in this region will have you coming back for more. The Porirua Outdoor Recreation Park offers a range of walks and a chance to climb to the top of Colonial Knob for panoramic views and a breath-catching outlook of the harbour and beyond. Down at sea level, the Te Ara Piko Pathway winds along the edge of Pauatahanui Inlet through native salt marshes and wetland habitat. This area is a nationally important estuary and is an easy stroll. The new Paekakariki Escarpment Track, a highlight of the Te Araroa Trail, is not for those scared of heights. This track from Paekakariki to Pukerua Bay offers spectacular ocean views and runs high above State Highway 1, reaching 220m above sea level. Visit pcc.govt.nz/Leisure/ Walkways-and-Pathways for more information.
Beyond the City Limits KAPITI t h e m o st th e c o a s t w it h 35 Meander north up SH1 from Wellingtoncity to discover Kapiti Coast – a bountiful region with some of the best cycling and walking trails, beaches, fishing, adventure sports, bird watching, artisan food and drink, and sunsets you could wish for. The Kapiti Coast, shouldered by the rugged Tararua ranges, stretches from Paekakariki in the south, through the towns of Raumati Beach, Paraparaumu, Waikanae,Te Horo, right up to the outlet shopping hotspot of Otaki. The area attracts artists and entrepreneurs who help make it a vibrant, creative area with a friendly coastal village atmosphere. Easily accessed by car, train or air and just 45 minutes from Wellington, it is the perfect place for a relaxing break. Just 5km off Kapiti coast, 8km-long Kapiti Island is a designated Nature Reserve. It’s home to many native birds including takahe, kokako, brown teal, stitchbird (hihi), saddleback (tieke), fantail (piwakawaka), morepork (ruru), weka as well as brown and little spotted kiwi. Artisan food & drink at loca l markets Paekākāriki Hill Road lookout Roxy Theatre © Justine Hall
36 Wellington Map IWHARAWH KA AR A RD 1 WADESTOWN D R Interislander RD TT U N H Ferry Terminal TO IL W WILTON D AOTE WILTON R A QUAY THO 1 RN DO N THORNDON MU D AY Westpac IR LGR QU OR T Stadium OO AK Beehive SS L N TI AVE ST ER Parliament RTI AT W Buildings CU B OW NORTHLAND EN ACE LAMBTON QUAY T RAILWAY Y KAR NS UA STATION BUS TERR O ORI T EQ Botanic TERMINAL ST RS LAMBT RD THE US RE Garden HE MO Space HO T N A E M GL Place O FE KARORI Point Halswell ST ON QUAY CU Cable Car Point Jerningham CE Lambton A RD ST RR IS QUAY U KELBURN Harbour
A RI AI Kau Bay ET ST W TO Victoria TH JERV I S VIC University ILL M Zealandia W ORIENTAL AN CA N 1 DIX BL ER E S Te Papa ON WA T DE S ST KE AL P BAY GH CO FIE IENT UZ NE UR LD OR T ES TE ST Scenic AR T IS NA ST O TE ARO YP ROSENEATH Drive T ST L Balaena Bay IA AK ST RE MA YS BA JO AN OR CE E R ET T ARO R RIB Mt Victoria CU STRE AN TC ET ET TO TA KS VIC VIV G IAN ST Lookout NT AR RID T MAUPUIA KE HIGHBURY WE HUR MT MB BB N PIR Shelly Bay A BU IE O C T CK ST VICTORIA LE PS IS ST Kio Bay AK OM TH AN Massey R TA University MT E RD HATAITAI E ST COOK AC LAID ADE WALL Greta Point 1 Weta Workshop Scenic JO CAMPE HN RDOWN Drive RD EVAN RUA S Wellington HINE RD KEY Hospital RIDD Hataitai Beach ST BAY P KARAKA IFO MAUPUIA RD TON Railway Station & HALL ST MEIN ST DE BAY RD S Intercity Bus Terminal LING T N ST WELLINGT ON RD UI S T MIRAMAR WILSO E ST Evans Bay AN DAR BL AR RD C ONSTA C NU O Cable Car Aquatic HI BH NEWTOWN U Centre RD AM TA OWEN C K D R DANIE R T RI E ST AW PA VE MANSF IV AS Wellington Hospital FO MI L ST R R RA DR D MA PA R R RINTOUL D COBHAM AV E Worser Bay IELD ST RON ADELAIDE RD ST Wellington RO Y ST KILBIRNIE GOT AI R D OY International Airport TR MANC RUSSELL TCE HES CALABAR
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