WE GO WHERE THE WIND BLOWS - VOLUME 442 April 2014 - Latitude 38
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CLIPPER ROUND THE WORLD RACE — S ir Robin Knox-Johnston could have been in a particularly devilish mood when he envisioned the Clipper first Clipper Race in 1995. To the un- Round the World Yacht Race back in informed, sending a 70-ft clipper yacht 1990. But truth be told, he was actu- through some of the world's roughest ally in search of sailing's equivalent to seas, with a crew of seemingly inexpe- climbing Mt. Everest — having been in- rienced sailors who've never met one spired by his friend, Chris Bonington, another, could be a recipe for disaster. while they were climbing in Greenland. But to the contrary, Clipper organizers Such a challenge is indeed monu- take each individual — sailor or not — mental in nature. For those who don't know of him, Sir Robin was the first person to complete a solo, nonstop cir- "The crux of the race was cumnavigation of the planet in 1967's that ocean yacht racing need Sunday Times Golden Globe Race. Forty years later, at the age of 67, he not be exclusively for competed in the singlehanded Velux 5 professional yachtsmen Oceans Race, finishing fourth and be- coming the oldest person to circumnav- or an elite minority." igate the earth alone. "I wanted to create something that through extensive training and screen- almost anyone could compete in, and ing and turn them into world-class sail- be able to experience the thrill of rac- ors. ing across the world’s oceans in a com- petitive team environment while chal- lenging themselves to limits they didn’t know they had," he says of the Clipper W e've met local participants with varying backgrounds in previous Lati- Race. tude 38 articles. Last month we intro- "The crux of the race was that ocean duced you to Stephanie Evans and Sar- yacht racing need not be exclusively for ah Lloyd. In February Tony Pohl and professional yachtsmen or an elite mi- Elaina Breen shared their stories as nority," says Sir Robin. "I want people to well. Stephanie and Sarah now are rac- say when they finish the race: 'That is ing across the Pacific Ocean from Qin- the best thing I have achieved in my life gdao, China to San Francisco in Race so far,' so they carry on pushing them- 10 (Leg Six). Elaina, as you may recall, selves and doing new adventures once took her first sailing lesson three days "Our crews are our best asset and they complete the Clipper Race." after signing up for four legs of the Clip- when they come into port after an in- The idea that anyone can sail around per. Her performance and drive are tes- credible adventure, they share their Planet Earth's oceans is a concept that taments to Clipper's vision. She departs stories with friends and family who in has gained lots of popularity since the from San Francisco on her second stint turn spread the word," relates Sir Rob- to Panama en route to New York in Rac- in. "Now, with so much social media, The Clipper Race consists of a series of legs that make up each race, crossing the world's es 11-14 (Legs Seven and Eight) this ‘armchair race fans’ are able to follow most formidable oceans. month. the race so closely with the Race View- er and stay updated with all the latest tactics and news, pictures and videos, which has helped with publicity and made it more accessible too." Although it is not inexpensive to par- ticipate, the race is set up so that more people can do it, rather than fewer. The Round the World Race is actually a se- ATLANTIC ries of "legs," broken down into "rac- OCEAN es." Individuals can sign up for single PACIFIC or multiple races within a leg (which OCEAN can be non-consecutive), multiple rac- es in different legs, or a complete cir- cumnavigation — like Sarah Lloyd. The structure can be a bit confusing, even PACIFIC OCEAN if you look at Clipper's world map — INDIAN OCEAN www.clipperroundtheworld.com/race- route/13-14/race-1. Each race is scored in a manner where teams accumulate points for winning; thus the boat that has the SOUTHERN most points in the end wins the overall OCEAN
COMING TO SAN FRANCISCO er sailed, 35% women and 65% men, and 40% non-UK crew," says David. "There are over 40 nationalities in the race, aged between 18-70." It's interesting to know how David approaches potential recruits. Jump- ing to the conclusion that his top objec- tive is to find physically strong people turns out to be completely wrong. It's actually a lot more nuanced than that. "What is key for me is people skills. Like most jobs the world over, you can teach technical skills far easier than chang- ing behaviors. And so with us, we know we can teach people to sail. What we’re looking for is raw energy, enthusiasm and excitement. And it doesn’t matter what age or size/shape body that en- thusiasm is wrapped in." David believes that if you are a team player who thrives on working with and for others, are enthusiastic and sup- portive of the team, and don't think twice about buoying them up or even ALL PHOTOS CLIPPER VENTURES PLC showing personal weakness, "chances are, you’ll make a great crewmate." "Because this is a competitive race, we get very few crew disagreements. There is nothing like healthy competi- tion to focus the mind outside of your boat. So when you’re battling the ele- ments and other competitors, you pull together as a team." David is continual- ly amazed at how physical hardship, liv- ing day-to-day aboard a sailboat in ba- The fast Clipper 70s surf down monster waves cants who will pay for the privilege of sic conditions, and the pressure to win like this quickly, giving all on board an adrena- participating is no small task. Depend- a race can create bonds among crew so line rush they won't soon forget. ing on the number of boats racing in a quickly. From what we've heard, this race. given year, the overall number of crew actually happens during the first week After each start, racers can opt to can vary widely for each boat and thus of training in the English Channel. sail through what's called a scoring for the entire race. David Lusworth, Last month Sarah Lloyd, who arrives gate, a virtual line across the route that Clipper's crew recruitment and devel- in San Francisco this month aboard is located approximately one-third the opment director, searches worldwide to A brave crewmember climbs Derry~London- distance to the finish line. By pass- find individuals suited for the rigors of derry~Doire's mast in what look to be rather ing through this gate, boats gain extra team ocean racing. "We have 14 yachts windy conditions! points. The first to cross it gets three in the next race points, the second gets two and the (2015-2016)," says third boat gets one. David. "Because Then, about two-thirds through the we own the yachts race, there is another area where the that race, it's com- Ocean Sprint occurs. Think of this as a plete match rac- race within a race. The team that sails ing, and we know across this portion of ocean the fast- absolutely how est is awarded one extra point. Then, many spaces we points are given for the order in which need to fill. We the boats finish at their destinations — then recruit world- 12 points for first, one point for last. Fi- wide for those nally, there are penalty points. These spaces." points are taken away from a team's to- Clipper has the tal for various reasons, such as break- math pretty well ing equiptment by mistake, rather than calculated. "His- by proper use in bad weather. torically we have around 40% of S electing from a group of appli- people who before training have nev-
CLIPPER ROUND THE WORLD RACE — Henri Lloyd, said, "most people come off the very first training level feeling that training. Training takes place over four boat with your team. During the fourth they have bonded with the people they weeks. The first of these is primarily a and final week, sailors race directly trained with, and would be very happy part of the selection process, making against the other competing boats. This to cross oceans with them." sure everyone is right for the adventure. gives everyone a chance to fine-tune Now, David is "looking for 750 (in- "So in effect you’re assessed for six days their own skills, "and assess how good, dividuals) for the next race." And, the living on a boat. Again, we’re looking at or not, the other boats are." As David registry is already over 40% full. "I’ll be your people skills." After that you spend says, this is, "a great time to get into recruiting in London this week, Swit- two weeks training rigorously aboard a the heads of your rivals. Beat them all zerland next week, and San Francisco Clockwise from upper left: A mid-ocean rescue in Race 4; OneDLL arriving in Qingdao, China, in in April." Once someone has passed the first place overall; Sir Robin (left) assists with a headstay issue; Sarah Lloyd drives in heavy seas; initial selection process, then they start time for push-ups; rough seas on the pointy end; happy times trimming; a mountain of ocean astern. Page 88 • Latitude 38 • April, 2014
COMING TO SAN FRANCISCO ALL PHOTOS COURTESY CLIPPER VENTURES PLC tion, the new 70s have modern design during that week, and you’ve got a great year and will be in service until 2020. elements such as twin helms and rud- edge going into the race." They are the third generation of Clip- ders, six-foot bowsprits (fit for three per Round the World race boats and are asymmetric spinnakers and a quiver T raining on these boats is impor- tant. Not only do racers need to get quite different from their predecessors. Tony Castro, the naval architect who penned the Clipper 70, has been of Yankee headsails), updated fast hull designs and, of course, a fixed camera system to capture all the action. Ulti- used to skippering, trimming, changing designing world-class race boats since mately, these changes have made these sails and so on, they also need to ac- the early 80s. The Clipper 70s are a sig- the safest and fastest clipper boats to climate to the Spartan living conditions nificant departure from previous clip- date. Two more will be added to the fleet below decks. The newest clipper boats, per race boats — the Clipper 60s and in the 2015-2016 race, bringing David's the Clipper 70s, were just launched last the Clipper 68s. Breaking from tradi- recruiting target up to 780 people. April, 2014 • Latitude 38 • Page 89
CLIPPER ROUND THE WORLD RACE T here have been some minor hic- cups along the way, though. The Clip- the greatest factor keeping race offi- cials up late at night. Just recently, at ALL PHOTOS CLIPPER VENTURES PLC per 70s are subject to incredible forces the start of 5,800-mile Race Ten (Leg of nature and each will have raced over 6), Qingdao's intense fog halted racing 40,000 miles around the planet by the soon after it started. The extra rest may conclusion of the 2013-2014 event. well be a blessing for the crews, who In late February, as if on cue, the are certain to endure challenging con- forestay bottlescrews began to fail on ditions in the weeks to come. Just after three of the Clipper 70s, literally within the start, weather reports called for 40- hours of each other during Race 9 (Leg 60 knots of breeze. It was during a simi- 5) on the way from Singapore to Qing- lar crossing two years ago when Clip- dao, China. This prompted race orga- per crews were badly injured crossing nizers to stop the race and bring the the world's largest ocean on their way to boats into Hong Kong for what turned Sir Robin Knox-Johnston presiding over San Francisco Bay. Hopefully everyone out to be a quick repair — sparing dam- 'GREAT Britain's christening ceremony at Lon- will arrive at South Beach YC in good don's Trafalger Square in July 2013. age or injury to boats and crew. health sometime after April 11. It wouldn't be racing if the crew were crew had to be taken off their boats for The overall standings in the Clip- not subject to incredibly trying condi- medical attention. In one case in Race per Round the World Race show tions. And inevitably, people are go- 4, Leg 3, from Rio to Albany, Australia, team OneDLL leading (with 83 ing to get hurt. You may remember in the fleet encountered some of the most points) by one point over Hen- a previous story we wrote that Tony brutal conditions seen to date. Just be- ri Lloyd, which is only four points Pohl broke four ribs before his two-race fore this issue went to print, two more ahead of Derry~Londonderry~Doire. segment had even begun. In what will crew were offloaded, one with pneumo- Derry~London-derry~Doire is in the lead certainly be remembered as some of nia and another due to injury. coming to San Francisco, with GREAT the most intense racing seen last year, Beyond the irregular hiccups due to Britain and Henri Lloyd trailing. Stay crossing the Southern Ocean proved bodily injuries or rare equipment fail- tuned! more dangerous than anticipated. Two ure, it seems that the weather is often — latitude/ross Your Boatyard in the Heart of Paradise Our Services| HAULOUT • Marine Travelift 25 tons • Marine railway 120 tons • Storage in adjustable steel cradles • Fenced Yard PAINTING • Topsides, hull, bottom, varnish • Brush, roller, spray MECHANICAL WORK • Inboard, outboard, diesel, gas • All brands REPAIRS Large, fenced, secure dry storage area • Electrical repairs • Refrigeration installation & repair • Fiberglass & woodwork Tahiti Customs policy • Welding, steel, stainless, aluminum Foreign Flag vessels can stay on dry storage SAIL LOFT in our yard for up to 12 months out of 24. • Sail repairs, biminis, dodgers, covers STORE Professional boatyard in the heart of Paradise • International, Pettit, Epiglass, Devoe • Spares Raiatea Carenage will make sure • Fill U.S. gas cylinders paradise is everything you expected. DO-IT-YOURSELFERS WELCOME! Call, write, or sail in . . . we're here to serve you. BoatUS Cooperating Marina B.P. 1111 Uturoa Raiatea 98 735 Polynésie Française Tel: (689) 600-545 ~ Fax: (689) 600-546 ~ VHF 68 Web site: http://www.raiatea.com/carenage ~ email: raiateacarenage@mail.pf Page 90 • Latitude 38 • April, 2014
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PACIFIC PUDDLE JUMP PROFILES, PT I — I f you've ever doubted that cruising sailors are a fascinating group of people, you should tag along with us on one of canoes. gation. "I didn't actually go to Australia our annual trips to Mexico and Panama. As with all to buy a boat, but I decided I wanted Each year in early March, just as a new Wharram to try the lifestyle, and I've loved it ever herd of Pacific Puddle Jumpers are about designs, since. I'd already had my fill of shovel- to set sail for French Polynesia, we corral the liv- ing snow out of driveways." them for interviews by offering free beer, ing space hors d'oeuvres and official PPJ burgees. is mini- Moshulu — Spencer 42 Invariably, they come from a wide mal and Gerry Parkhurst & variety of backgrounds, and sail on the sailing Alf and Kathleen of 'Kattu' Gail Jasmer-Wilson a wildly diverse fleet of boats — from systems are simple, and high tech gear Gig Harbor, WA is almost nonexistent. But keeping Gerry tells us Moshulu is a Seneca things simple is good, right? Alf and Indian name meaning fearless. But his Kathleen won't waste a lot of time isn't the first awaiting the arrival of parts via DHL. vessel to adopt The build took them 10 years it. The the four- and was inspired by neighbors on masted barque Saltspring Island who built a tri and Moshulu was circumnavigated during the 1960s. the winner of The boat's name, by the way, is taken the last great from the Tamil word meaning lash- Australia-to- ings — you guessed it, the boat's Europe grain structural members are held together race (1939), and by lashings. is said to have The 'Moshulu' crew been the last Nakiska — Freya 42 commercial sailing ship to round Cape Our official Pacific Puddle Jump burgees make Trevor Anderson Horn. (She's now a classy restaurant in great souvenirs. But you can only get one if you Georgetown, CYM Philadelphia.) attend one of our Send-Off fiestas. Trevor's story is unique within the While the background of this Moshu- Spartan fixer-uppers to gleaming yachts fleet. Although he's lu is not quite that impressive, she does equipped with all the latest bells and from Calgary, Alberta have a colorful history. She has already whistles. The common thread, of course, (don't let that Cay- done two circumnavigations, and will is that they are all poised to head west man Islands homeport turn 50 next year. in pursuit of one of the sailing world's fool you), he bought Gerry and Gail spent five years re- greatest adventures: crossing from the his boat in Austra- furbishing her before heading south West Coast of the Americas to French lia 16 years ago, and with the 2010 Baja Ha-Ha rally. Their Polynesia. At roughly 3,000 miles, it's has spent much of plan now is to do a short South Pacific the largest uninterupted stretch of ocean that time cruising it circuit. a would-be circumnavigator would face around the world. At Trevor of 'Nakiska' Sure they're a little rowdy. You'd be in a festive when traveling around the world via the this point, he's about to complete the mood too if you were about to set sail for the tropics. final quarter of a very slow circumnavi- fabled isles of the South Pacific. Yeah, it's a pretty big deal. And that's why, ever since coining the phrase Pacific Puddle Jump nearly 20 years ago, we've expended lots of ink honoring the sailors who make this ambitious passage. The voyagers you'll meet here gathered March 7 at the Vallarta YC in Nuevo Vallarta, Mexico for our annual PPJ Send-Off Party. (We'll follow up next month by introduc- ing you to the adventure-hungry explorers we met at Panama's Bal- boa YC.) ALL PHOTOS LATITUDE / ANDY Kattu — Wharram Tiki 38 Alf Bangert & Kathleen O'Brien Hornby Island, BC Kattu is definitely one of the most unusual boats in this year's fleet. She's homebuilt to a James Wharram design that borrows concepts from ancient voyaging Page 92 • Latitude 38 • April, 2014
MEET ME IN PAPEETE 30° N Hawaiian Islands The Beguine — Valiant 40 you keep your mistress on the 15° N Paul & Celeste Carpenter sea" and this 38-ft cat definitely Marysville, KS qualifies as her husband's mis- Routes of the Despite being officially based in Kan- tress. Pacific Puddle Jumpers sas, Paul and Celeste already have a After nearly two years spent lot of sea miles under their belts. Now cruising in Mexican waters, the in her fifth year of cruising, Celeste ex- couple figures the time is right for a South Pacific cruise — "while we still have our health and wits "Thirty-four years, three about us!" 0° (grown) kids later, They met their crew, Dani Peters and Jack Whittmore, in and we finally get to Mexico. The foursome may sail pursue our dream!" together all the way to Australia. Marquesas Panama > Wind Cutter — Island Packet 485 plains that the last time they decided to Craig & Carol Fleetwood head offshore from Mexico they ended Portland, OR 15° S up in Alaska. so now it's time to "do a Based on the following, we'd 180 and head for the South Pacific." bet that few PPJ crews are more excited The folks you'll meet here set sail from Ban- Plans are open-ended. about chasing the deras Bay. But many others jump off from sun over the hori- Panama, Galapagos and elsewhere. And yes, the name is taken from that famous Cole Porter song. zon than Craig and a 20-ft Flicka — that process took 13 Carol: "From the years, but he got 20 years of sailing out Pied-a-Mer III — Seawind 1160 moment we said, 'I of her before deciding to upgrade. By Pam & Eric Sellix, Clatskanie, OR do,' we have talked contrast, Gail is a relatively new con- about this day. Thir- vert. She learned to sail only five years ty-four years, three ago. (grown) kids later, 'Windcutter' Craig and we finally get to Rhapsody — Herreshoff Nereia 36 pursue our dream!" Alan & Laura Dwan, Los Angeles Wow. That's a long time to defer ad- It's not often that we see the name venturing, but there's every indication Herreshoff in a Puddle Jump fleet list- that they'll make the most of it now. ing, and this one is a rare beauty. De- They left us with this pithy comment: signed by L. Fran- "When people share concern over our cis Herreshoff, but safety while sailing an open sea, we like launched in 1981, The happy crew of 'Pied-a-Mer' to say, "'We'd rather die living, than live this 'modern clas- Pam explains that the colloquial dying.'" sic' sports a ketch translation of her boat name is "where rig, and measures Starshine — 42 feet overall. Shannon 38 Why the South Dave & Gail Kenyon Pacific? Alan can Deale, MD trace his inspira- "We came down tion to sail there on the Ha-Ha this to his reading of 'Rhapsody' traditionalists year and decided to Joshua Slocum's Sailing Alone Around keep going," explains the World when he was about 12 years Dave. He and Gail old. Their game plan is to spend two plan to island-hop all seasons exploring the South Pacific be- the way to Australia, fore circling home via Hawaii. then figure out what comes next. Oogachaka — Kadey-Krogen 42 Like many, many Ken & Patty Sebby Puddle Jumpers Umatilla, OR over the years, Dave Easily one of the most unusual boat credits his reading of names ever to grace a Puddle Jump fleet David Lee Graham's roster, we have to wonder if Oogachaka Dove (40 years ago) was chosen because it would be fun to with sparking his lust say on the radio: "Harbormaster, this is for bluewater sailing. Oogachaka, Oogachaka, Oogachaka." The first step in that Trivia champions will know it's taken process was building from a 70's pop hit Hooked on a Feeling. April, 2014 • Latitude 38 • Page 93
PACIFIC PUDDLE JUMP PROFILES, PT I — In any case, this boat is also dis- tinctive, as she's Chara — Amel Maramu 48 night races. Before she knew it, she and one of only two Robert & Joyce Sarff Robie were in love, and were beginning motoryachts in Seattle, WA their cruising adventures together with the 2014 fleet. When we asked Bob how long he'd the 2011 Baja Ha-Ha. They've become Much to his credit, been wanting to head out into blue wa- so enamored with the cruising life that Ken stepped up to ter, he paused to think. But his grown they're already thinking about doing act as net control- a second Mexico-New Zealand-Hawaii- Repeat x3: 'Oogachaka' ler for boats jump- Mexico loop after they complete the first. ing from Mexico. He and Patty plan to reach New Zealand by the end of this Cygnus — Cabo Rico 38 season. Joe Lavash, Newport, OR Technically, Joe has already 'cruised' Bangorang — Fountaine-Pajot 42 the South Pacific, but in his mind that Colin & Wendy Gegg, Ventura, CA first crossing didn't really count. He Speaking of unusual boat names, was, after all, aboard a US Navy vessel how about Bangorang — the battle cry that made a beeline past all those gor- of the Lost Boys from Neverland (in a geous islands without Peter Pan movie). Roughly translated it stopping. From that means: awesome! point on, he vowed The kids and parents of 'Chara' Although Colin claims he's been to return on his own dreaming about making a South Pacific daughter Anna had an immediate an- boat someday so he passage since his teen years, it took swer. She remembers a day when she could stop and smell until 2012 to set the plan in motion. He was a little kid where her dad bought a the roses — or more and Wendy entered the cruising lifestyle lottery ticket and she asked, "If you win, appropriately, the ti- with the 2012 BHH, and are now follow- what are you going to do with all the are flowers. Joe of 'Cygnus' ing that frequently heard cruiser game money?" "Buy a sailboat," he said, "and Blair Faulwet- plan: "Keep sailing until it ain't fun any- sail off to the South Pacific." ter and Sally Jones will fill out Cyg- more." Their "adult(ish)" son Gavin will Well now he and his wife Joyce are nus' crew roster during the crossing to be along for the ride to French Polynesia, finally doing it, and Anna and her hus- French Polynesia, and possibly beyond. and possibly all the way to New Zealand. band Brian Radford get to come along Joe's plans are loose, but most likely too. If all goes well, the game plan is to he will spend the next South Pacific cy- Hotspur — Tartan 41 cruise all the way to Australia, where clone season in New Zealand. Jim & Meri Faulkner, Olathe, CO the Sarffs have family. Talk about a unique reference for a boat name, Nautical literature quiz: Who was Colin and Wendy named their F-P cat after an the captain of the British naval ship Red Witch II — Rhodes Bounty II exclamation from Neverland: 'Bangorang'! Robie & Stephi Kirkcaldie Nelson, NZL We have a special place in our hearts for Bounty IIs, because the first editions of Latitude 38 were laid out on the salon table of one. Like the Latitude Bounty, this one was built in Sausalito in 1958, and she's still going strong. Designers underestimated the strength of fiberglass back then, so they were built like battleships. Meet Jim, Carolyne & Meri of 'Hotspur' "She has a fiery red tempera- Hotspur Horatio Hornblower, of course. Hotspur? ment as well as an around-the- She was his first command. world histo- Jim and Meri started cruising six ry," explains years ago on a perfectly good Cal 35 Robie, a New sloop. But when their kids outgrew it Zealander and they were inspired to upgrade to this longtime rac- ALL PHOTOS LATITUDE / ANDY roomy 41-footer. Daughter Carolyne, er. Like many 14, is still with them. In fact, she's been Kiwis, he's pushing to head to the South Pacific been sailing for a while. "When Captain Jim said he all his life, but didn't feel like going south anymore," Stephi, who's explains Meri, "we changed direction, an American, so now Carolyne gets her wish." Plans 'Red Witch II' crew got started are open. only three years ago when she started showing up for Wednesday Page 94 • Latitude 38 • April, 2014
MEET ME IN PAPEETE fluent French is a bonus. She and Mike have cruised Mexico for the past two Code Blue — Caliber 40 LRC That's ex- Steve & Judy Dauzenroth actly what he Seattle, WA did, and now For Steve and Judy, one of the stron- Pamela is as gest draws of the cruising life is access excited about to great scuba diving. In fact, sailing crossing the and diving with blue skies above and Pacific as he 'Pamela's namesake & capt blue water below was the inspiration is. This is their for the boat's first boat, which they bought two years name. When ago, but Dennis says doing a cruise like someone re- this has been a lifelong dream. Dennis, minded him who plays guitar, met another guitarist it's also med- at a cruiser jam this year, and now that These sailors love 'Music' ical-speak for guy — Larry Byers — has signed on as cardiac ar- crew to French Polynesia. Should be a years on their own sailboat, which has rest, he said, tuneful crossing. an electric auxiliary. "Perfect. That will go with Sea Monkey — Jeanneau 39 Romany Star — Ohlson 38 the boat pay- Greg Mullen & Diane Hanny Paul Moore & Bonnie Wagner ments." Brisbane, AUS San Francisco, CA The 'Code Blue' divers Judy's done Like many Aussies we meet on the "We met while living in the same ma- two previous stints of South Pacific voy- West Coast these days, Greg and Diane rina in San Diego," explains Paul. She aging and Steve has seen parts of it on capitalized on the current strength of may now be in love with Paul, but she dive and charter trips. So they've un- the Australian admits that one of the first things that doubtedly got a list of favorite spots to dollar to buy a attracted her to Romany Star was her return to. We expect you'll find them nice production aluminum toe rails. "I really fell in love along the cruiser milk run to New Zea- boat here and with them," she says. (They never need land, wherever the water is clear and sail it home to varnishing.) the reefs are abundant with sealife. the land down Paul has done two previous Puddle u n d e r. T h e y Jumps, both times via the Galapagos. Roundabout II — Moody 40 found Sea Mon- But this time the game plan is to head Ted & Pam Simper key in San Di- from PV straight to the less-traveled Edmonton, AB ego last winter, Gambier archipelago of French Polyne- Don't let the fact that Ted and Pam and have spent sia. He and Bon- live near Calgary fool you. They've been 'Sea Monkey' sailors the intervening nie both jumped sailing since the mid-1970s, when they months enjoying Mexico. through hoops first sampled the sport in East Africa. "This is my first cruising experience to get their "long The name Roundabout isn't original and ocean crossing in 30 years," explains stay" six-month with them, but it perfectly suits their Diane with just a wee bit of apprehen- visas, rather than intentions: "It has been our dream sion, although she admits that she's the customary for 30 years to always dreamed of crossing the Pacific. three months, so sail around the Greg nudged her into committing, after they'll have plenty world," explains doing the Puddle Jump in 2007 aboard of time to take it Pam. This sea- his previous boat. "He loved the South slowly and explore son they may Pacific islands and wanted me to experi- all five FP archi- island-hop all ence them as well," says Diane. After a pelagos. "We'll fin- The stars of 'Romany Star' the way to New stint in Brisbane, they intend to cruise ish with the Marquesas," explains Paul, Zealand, with north to Papua New Guinea. "then sail north to Hawaii for hurricane stops along the season. We hope to see the Cooks, Ton- way at French Music — Island Packet 40 ga, and other island nations next year Polynesia, the Wayne Fofonoff, Vancouver, BC before landing in New Zealand for a Cook Islands, We're not sure if Wayne gave his boat while." Tonga and Fiji. 'Roundabout' we go this name, but he's got a good reason for But for them, that's only the beginning. keeping it: "I really like music, and feel it Anthem — Hylas 46 to be one of the great joys of life — just Jack Warren & Jan Holmes Pamela — Pacific Seacraft 37 like my sailboat." Weeki Wachee, FL Dennis Maggard & Pamela York Wayne's chance meeting of Mike Jack explains that the name Anthem San Francisco, CA Knapp and Marie Cantin has proven to is taken from a book by Ayn Rand, and Dennis is no dummy. He knows the be a coup for all, as Wayne will have lots represents a song of praise for individu- answer to that often-pondered ques- of help (and will get some sleep) during alism. That's certainly fitting for craft tion: How does a sailor get his wife to the crossing, and Mike and Marie get owned by self-sufficient sailors who are approve of buying a cruising sailboat? to test South Pacific waters on a very about to cross thousands of miles of Simple, name it after her! capable boat. The fact that Marie speaks open ocean. April, 2014 • Latitude 38 • Page 95
PACIFIC PUDDLE JUMP PROFILES, PT I — Jack's been cruising full-time since January, As we said they're really into fishing. In 2009. He and fact, they even design and sell their own Jan have one of unique lures (skabengalures.com). skabengalures.com skabengalures.com). the most unusual Veteran Puddle Jumper Jennifer Mar- answers we've tindale signed on for the passage, and Jack & Jan of 'Anthem'. ever heard to the even though she's done lots of offshore question: "So, where did you meet?" An- sailing it took a little practice to become swer: "Big Mamas in Tongatapu." Yeah, an "excellent" helmsperson while the it's in Tonga — in what most people boys were fighting marlin. "It takes a lot would say is a long way from anywhere. of skill to keep that fish behind the boat," "We plan to spend cyclone season says Bruce. in New Zealand, where we have many 'Fluenta' is home to the littlest PPJer friends, then head up to New Caledo- Mintaka — Ingrid 38 nia, Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand Mark Bennett & Robyn Rogin Fluenta — Stevens 47 in 2015. After that our plans are a little Salt Lake City, UT Max Shaw & Elizabeth Brown-Shaw fuzzy — written in sand at low tide." Remarkably, this will be Mark and Halifax, NS Robyn's third We haven't had time to confirm Grasshopper — Waterline 46 Pacific cross- this assertion, but we're pretty sure Jeff & Cheri Slotta, Polaris, MT ing on the that three-month-old Benjamin is the Cheri couldn't make it to our fies- same classic, youngest 'cruiser' ever to do the Pacif- ta, and we didn't get to 1979 William ic Puddle Jump — at least since we've spend much time with Atkins-de- been keeping records. As you may have Jeff either, which is a signed ketch. read in February's Sightings section, shame because we don't She's not only little Ben was born in Mexico, which often meet sailors from salty looking, turned out to be a great experience. Mark & Robyn of 'Mintaka' When he gets a little older his mom Montana. but has also Jeff says he's been proven her seaworthiness again and and dad (Elizabeth and Max) will have subscribing to sailing again. "This time we're hoping to visit plenty of help with babysitting: daugh- magazines for years, and some of the more obscure islands," says ter Victoria is now 10, and son Johna- 'Grasshopper' Jeff the cruising bug finally Mark. There are plenty to choose from. than is 8. The family began cruising bit so hard that he and Cheri had to In fact, in French Polynesia alone there from Nova Scotia almost two years ago, give it a try. are 118 islands, and that doesn't count after Elizabeth and Max made their exit all the islets and motus. from the Royal Canadian Air Force. Skabenga — St. Francis 44 Mk II At the end of the season Mintaka will The game plan now is to hop west Bruce & Fynn Harbour, Big Sky, MT likely be back at her "base" in New Zea- for the season, then head south to New We're not quite sure how Bruce and land. Zealand or Australia. his 19-year-old son Fynn got from their South African homeland to Big Sky, True Blue V — Island Packet 45 Exodus — Lagoon 400 Montana, but they are now definitely Leanne & Craig Chalker Tim & Deanne Gresham Brisbane, AUS San Diego, CA We first met Leanne and Craig in The Gresham family left San Diego a September 2012. They'd just flown year ago on a grand adventure that none out to California from Australia to buy of them are likely to forget. We think sons this boat, and Alex, 12, and Brenden 11, are at an ideal were eager to age to participate in the sailing chores start their new and become fully engaged in the cultures cruising life- style with the start of the Baja Ha-Ha a few weeks lat- er. Bucking the norm, in this Aussies of 'True Blue V' The 'Skabenga' crew sails for Marlin couple Leanne is the captain, and right- getting back to their nautical roots. Both ly so. After all, she makes her living as are avid fishermen, and their motto for a ferry master. the cruise is: "Catching marlin under Their original plan was to sail back sail." Bruce explains, "Skabenga Skabenga has home to Oz last year, but they got se- been customized into a sportfishing duced by the Sea of Cortez. Time will sailing vessel, complete with a fighting The Greshams are making an 'Exodus' tell if distractions along the way west chair, outriggers, teaser reels and a will sidetrack them again this year. they visit. Apparently that was the idea: special fighting station on the transom." "We wanted a freer, slower lifestyle while Page 96 • Latitude 38 • April, 2014
MEET ME IN PAPEETE watches, general maintenance and the boys are still young enough to enjoy tralia. overall seaman- it," explains Deanne. Steve speaks ship as we con- Captain Tim has a specific plan for eloquently tinue on. That, crossing into the Southern Hemisphere: about their ex- and they have a "Head to 7°N, 127°W, and when we get periences thus lot of fun doing a close to the ITCZ, close our eyes and turn far: "The people variety of activi- south." Sounds about right. that we are to- ties with a variety day are nothing of people. Not bad Lady Carolina — Island Packet 44.5 like the people for 13 and 9." Steve & Carolina Danielewicz that we were His advice: Victoria, BC two years ago. "Stop dreaming There's apparently a couple of varia- This is, and and go cruising. tions on why this boat is named Lady continues to You and your Carolina. "The good story?" asks Steve. be, an excellent kids will love it — Cruising has been life-changing for this crew. "I found the boat and fell in love with trip filled with although it takes it, then I had to find a wife named Car- highs and lows that are atypical of any 6 to 12 months to adjust." olina. In the end, it all worked out." 'normal' life. It gives a new perspective Sounds a little fishy, but a good story nonetheless. This is yet another 'kid boat', with on what is important and what is mate- rialistic and 'Jonses'-driven. "Our kids are doing very well and I W ith those insightful observa- tions we'll take a break here, and pick it sons Kyle, 13, and Joel, 9, along as would suspect they are better here than up again next month with mini-profiles able-bodied crewmen. Now in their sec- back on land. They have more respon- of the internationally diverse fleet of Pa- ond year of cruising, the entire family sibility, more jobs and are exposed to cific Puddle Jumpers that we recently seems very well adjusted to the cruising many cultures and several excellent met in Panama. We think you'll be as life, as they push on toward the South role models through fellow cruisers. fascinated to meet them, as we were. Pacific islands, and eventually to Aus- We have come to depend on them for — latitude/andy Use the Autopilot Favored by Singlehanded Racers For over 40 Years, ALPHA PILOTS Have Delivered the Highest Performance, Reliability and Low Power Consumption These Competitors Demand! Photo by Robbie Gabriel Overall Winner 2012 Singlehanded TransPac Jim Quanci, after placing 1st Overall in the 2012 Singlehanded TransPac in his Cal 40 Green Buffalo says: "13 days from San Francisco to Hawaii alone, 10 of those days flying the spinnaker in winds up to 32 knots without a round up or a wrap. My Alpha Spectra autopilot drove the whole way – and then drove the boat another 16 days taking us home. What more can one ask for? I just love my Alpha Spectra autopilot." Why buy an Alpha Autopilot? We'll make your boating more fun! A WORLD CLASS PRODUCT PROUDLY BUILT IN THE USA ALPHA MARINE SYSTEMS, INC., 6809 96th Avenue SE, Mercer Island, WA 98040 • (800) 257-4225 (206) 275-1200 email sales@alphamarinesystems.com Visit our website www.alphamarinesystems.com April, 2014 • Latitude 38 • Page 97
THE SCIENCE IS IN — S ailing is good for you. It’s not just me saying that. It’s science. There is a growing body of research ing offers a refreshing tonic that can help the stresses of life. Making time linking happiness and overall health. reduce the stress associated with daily for sailing can be hard. But we And while it is true that engaging in life. Indeed, one of the features of sail- could argue that not making time activities you enjoy — such as sailing — ing that can make it so hard to engage for sailing is bad for your heart. can make you happy, the relationship in frequently — time — turns out to be is not a simple one. You might derive one of the reasons sailing is so effective Feel the Freedom great happiness from eating pizza, but as a stress reducer. More so than many of the dedicating yourself to that activity as a Who among us has not struggled just activities we engage in, sailing way to achieve happiness is probably not to get down to the boat to go sailing? offers a sense of freedom and so good for you. So it matters what you But once on the boat, it is too late to self-reliance. Sailing gives us the do to make yourself happy, and also how worry about all the things left undone. chance to explore the world at a you do it. leisurely pace, and once on the It might be a bit of a stretch to claim that sailing will make you happy and that The self-contained boat, we can take a thousand different paths to the same des- your happiness will make you healthier. nature of a sailboat tination. We are never really far from help while sailing the Bay, Happiness is a state of mind, or perhaps a state of being, but it is subjective and pushes us to be but the self-contained nature of difficult to measure directly. However, it would not be too much to claim that self-reliant a sailboat pushes us to be self- reliant and to try to take care of many aspects of sailing are directly the problems that arise without related to reduced mortality and bet- The laundry will still be there, and the outside assistance. As it turns ter health. And good physical health is shopping, and the taxes, and the myriad out, a sense of self-reliance is highly predictive of happiness. Here, other things that compete for our atten- good for one’s self-esteem, and then, are some of the ways in which tion. But happily, none of them can be the freedom to seek our own sailing is good for you. done while we are out on the boat. So, path on our own schedule is a for the time being, we might as well let good way to take a step back Get Out of Your Own Head go and live in the moment — sailing is from the pressures of daily life. In this pressure-packed world of work an ideal way to do just that. and family and activities and obligations There is always plenty to do or noth- Put Your Body In Motion and traffic and chores, stress can often ing to do, depending on one’s proclivi- The health benefits of mod- build up and cause all sorts of negative ties, and the physical separation from erate physical activity are well health effects, including hypertension, our land-bound lives means that we known. Physical activity is good for your heart disease, stroke and diabetes. Sail- cannot easily return our attention to circulation, muscle tone and develop- Sailing is good for the gray cells, as it requires those things that need to be done. As ment, your respiratory system and your you to strategize, navigate, adjust to changing with meditation and other relaxation heart, and it is a really good way to re- conditions and remember which line does what. techniques in which the goal is to focus lieve stress. Sailing offers an ideal way on something other than the pres- to remain physically active, even when sures of life, sailing offers us the other activities such as running or tennis opportunity to lose ourselves in become too hard on the aging body. the activity and to forget about the Grinding the primary winches on stress. Even racing, which can be even a small boat while short-tacking quite stressful at times, requires up a narrow channel will get your heart an external focus that provides a rate up, as will trimming a spinnaker, reprieve from mundane daily bur- hauling on the mainsheet, or jumping a dens. halyard. There is no upper limit to how hard you can work at making your boat Time Is On Our Side sail faster or better. Think about the size One of the great challenges in of the grinders on the AC-72s during last sailing is time. Even a short sail summer's America's Cup and you'll get a or a beer can race on a Wednes- sense of just how strong and physically day night requires three or four fit one needs to be to compete at the hours, start to finish, more if one highest levels of the sport. ventures up to the bar afterward to But the benefits of physical activity share stories. But the time require- are not limited to those who race. A ca- ments of sailing turn out to be one sual daysail can provide an opportunity of the reasons that it can also be to put your body in motion and to engage such a great stress reducer. The in moderate physical activity, especially meditative state, or ability to live when the wind comes up. Just sitting in the moment, does not happen on a boat that is heeled over can require instantaneously. We need time to physical effort, and moving about on a JOHN TUMA calm the inner voice, to focus on boat that is heeling or moving about in a the tasks at hand, and to reach the seaway requires balance and concentra- quiet space necessary to set aside tion.
SAILING IS GOOD FOR YOU the sailing that much more emotionally invigorating and satisfying. The sailing community is small, but we speak a com- mon language, and find support within the community for the activity that we love. And social support, it turns out, is an essential ingredient of happiness. Meaning is also derived from getting involved and giving back. I was fortunate enough to develop friendships early in my sailing days with sailors much more accomplished than myself, and I still recall their patience — "Shut up and drive!” — with great fondness. Giving back can be as simple as teaching a new sailor how to trim the sails, but it can also include getting involved in a yacht club or sailing club, working on a race committee, or organizing an impromptu Saturday night potluck on the dock. Any of these activities can help to create the kind of social relationships that have been linked to happiness and improved health. Take It Outside Sailing is an outside sport. This is a good thing. There are, of course, many LATITUDE / ANDY health benefits associated with being outside. Sunlight activates the creation of vitamin D, which has been linked to lower blood pressure and a reduced risk of type 1 diabetes, muscle and bone pain, All together now: "Sailing is good for you!" Get- to get out sailing, and that has allowed and certain types of cancers. Natural ting kids — and young adults — off the couch me to spend more time doing what I light may promote healing, and it tends and out in nature can be a challenge, but few love. That said, I prefer to sail with crew. to elevate people’s moods. There is also will refuse an offer to go sailing. For all the benefits of being able to sail some evidence that being outside helps The benefits are also cumulative. It whenever I want, sailing with friends is to improve concentration and focus. is easier to stay fit than to get fit. Get better still. Spend a day sailing, feel the wind on up and do it today, and there’s a good One of the keys to happiness is being your face, the warmth of the sun on your chance you’ll be able to get up and do socially active and emotionally engaged, back, and the smell of salt in the air, it tomorrow. So put down the beer, pick and sailing is an inherently social sport. and you'll return home feeling physically up a winch handle, and help grind that Singlehanded racers may seem to be tired but satisfied. sheet. You’ll feel better for it at the end solitary souls, but you need only at- Whether you sail solo or with a boatload of of the day. tend a meeting of the Singlehanded friends, you're apt to go home feeling relaxed, Sailing Society to discover this is not refreshed and energized. Go It Alone, Or Don’t so. These folks may One of the trends in contemporary race alone, but they sailing is the growth of short-handed are part of a larger racing and recreational sailing. There are community that is many reasons for this. If you're racing, a committed to that small crew is much less burdensome to activity. feed than a large one, and just finding The social rela- enough sailors to make up a large crew tionships that are is often impossible. Even when daysail- forged through sail- ing, reliable crew can be hard to come ing bring meaning by. I can't count the number of times to the activity. Re- my friends have said they would love to laxing in the cockpit go sailing, and that any day would work or standing around — except, of course, the one on which at the bar after a I planned to go. So rather than remain race or a day of land-bound, I have rigged my boat so sailing, comparing JOHN TUMA that I can sail it by myself. notes about wind Being able to sail alone gives me a speed and sail trim freedom I didn’t have when I needed crew and weather, makes
THE SCIENCE IS IN Lifelong and beverage re- Learning quirements for a Just as being crew of eight on physically active is an all-day cruise essential for good around the Bay. physical health, Sailing offers the being mentally ac- opportunity for tive is essential for constant mental keeping the mind stimulation, no sharp. Sailing is a matter how long JOHN TUMA complicated busi- you've been do- ness, and there ing it. is always more to learn. Sailboats Sailing is Good operate in a com- Will sailing keep you going? Seems to have worked for these guys, all of whom have been sailing and For You plex environment. racing with each other for decades. Left to right: Jim Jessie, 81, Fred Joyce, 78, Emile Carles, 87, Martin The science Jemo, 87, George Gurrola, 82, Mel Silverman, 85, Tom Sator, 91, and Jim Labbe, soon to be 70. The hull has to is in. Sailing is float and drive through water, propelled puzzle. good for you. It will give you a chance by the force of the wind. There are doz- But making the boat sail, and sail to focus on something you enjoy and to ens of variables in play at any one time, well, is just the beginning. Then there live in the moment, outside, where you and making the boat sail well requires is navigation and currents and under- can be mentally and physically active, constant attention to the changing standing the rules of the road and the and part of a community of like-minded conditions and frequent adjustments to meaning of buoys and how to read a souls. So put down the remote, haul on the controls. Figuring out which lines chart. There are diesel engines and single the halyard, and get out on the water. to adjust, which course to steer, which sideband radios and image-stabilizing You’ll be happier and healthier because sails to set and how much of each sail binoculars, and if you really want to work of it. to use at any given time is a complicated hard mentally, try calculating the food — john tuma o ut O ur San Diego’s Cruiser Destination Call Ab l Harbor Island S p e c i a a t e s! West Marina Cruiser R 620 Single Slips Outstanding Central Location Complimentary Wifi Fuel Dock Pool/Spa/Laundry Deli & Restaurant Package/Mail/Fax/Notary 619.291.6440 www.harborislandwest.com 2040 Harbor Island Drive San Diego, California 92101 Page 100 • Latitude 38 • April, 2014
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LIVIN' THE DREAM WHILE WORKING — W e dropped the hook for the first time in 19 days in Taioha’e Bay, Nuku Hiva, on April 16, 2013. We’d anticipated what is laid out below, there are many closest to the pier were sometimes able to being blown away by the incredibly rug- restaurants, cafés, yacht clubs, etc., that connect with the help of a Wi-Fi booster. ged Marquesan landscape, the visual also provide wireless connections. Please (Ed. note: Booster antennas are often delight of colors other than blue, the bear in mind that prices and coverage a hot topic on cruiser forums. One recent smell of the jungle, and the taste of beer. may have changed. (This is 2013 info.) post praised an antenna from www.ra- But we didn’t expect to be able to pick diolabs.com that can pull in a signal from up three pay-per-hour wireless Internet Mexico shoreside Wi-Fi routers a mile away (if not connections, on the boat at anchor! A jumping-off point for many cruis- running network security) — and even ers heading to the South Pacific, farther if the antenna is mast-mounted.) Mexico offers easy cruising and • Website: internetniue.nu easy communications. The tele- • Cost: $25 NZD fee, purchased from communications giant Telcel sells RockET Internet Café in Alofi (approx. a 3G USB dongle (yes, we know $21 USD) what ‘dongle’ means to the Brits!), known to cruisers as the Banda Kingdom of Tonga Ancha. The SIM card is inside it. It Quite a few Wi-Fi signals pop up in is essentially a USB modem that is Neiafu Harbour, Vava’u group. Depend- plugged into your laptop and allows ing on the time of day and how many you to go online anywhere within the other cruisers are online, they can be mobile data range. We found that the very slow. We tested every Internet café coastal coverage was very good, with in Neiafu, but couldn’t find a consistently the exception of the Sea of Cortez. reliable and fast option. We also bought a • Website: www.telcel.com In Fiji's remote Yasawa island group, Will down- • Cost: $500 pesos for 3 GB of data loads emails on his smartphone from the top Sarah and Will called home as they crossed the or 30 days of service, whichever is used of a hill. Simple tricks kept them connected. equator. Satphone calls can be pricey, but these first (approx. $38 USD) devices greatly enhance safety and security. Being offline is part of many cruisers’ French Polynesia vision of the lifestyle. My husband Will Wi-Fi hotspots are the answer in and I ‘work and cruise’, so trying to stay French Polynesia. Three main providers connected isn’t a choice, it's a necessity. operate hotspots in many locations, in- Remarkably, between mobile data net- cluding some quite remote anchorages. works (purchasing SIM cards from local One of the best connections we had was providers) and Wi-Fi hotspots, we were on the boat while anchored off the vil- able to access the Internet frequently lage of Rotoava at the northern end of enough to work our way across the South Fakarava atoll in the Tuamotus. The Pacific all the way to Australia. hotspots are accessed by creating an The following is a rundown of the online account or purchasing a prepaid Internet options and providers in all of card from local shops or the post office. the countries we visited. In addition to • Hotspot website: www.hotspot-wdg. It would be a stretch to say that Fakarava, in com the Tuamotus, is sophisticated, but it does have • Cost: Various plans, i.e.: 10 hours + up-to-date communications infrastructure. 1 free hour for 4,000 XPF (approx. $46 USD) • Manaspot website: www. manaspot.pf • Cost: Various plans, i.e: 10 hours for 3,300 XPF (approx. $38 USD) • Iaoranet. Buy pre-paid cards in shops. Niue, 'The Rock' We read that the tiny Pacific island of Niue is the world’s first and only ‘Wi-Fi Nation’ so natu- rally we expected free wireless internet across the island. This turned out to be a myth. The SARAH CURRY HYDROQUEST connection was the worst we had in the South Pacific: inaccessible except for a few locations. Boats on the Niue Yacht Club moorings
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