VENETO CHIANTI ITALIAN ICON 30 WINES IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
MARCH
2014
VENETO
DELICIOUS
DIVERSITY
Bottega owners
CHIANTI Fabrizio and Massimo Covone
ITALIAN ICON BROTHERS
30 WINES IN STORES IN PIZZAS AND PAIRINGS
MARCH 6 AND 20
IN STORES
MARCH 6 AND 20
30 newly arrived wines.
DIRECTOR – SPECIALTY PRODUCTS BUSINESS UNIT – SAQ
Michel-André St-Jean
MANAGER FOR SPECIALITY PRODUCTS, MARKETING – SAQ
Sophie Drouin
PUBLISHER – SAQ
CONTENTS
Johanne Morrisseau
CONTRIBUTORS – SAQ
Marie-Lyne Alarie, Éric Bertoldi, Daniel Bonasso, Liette Chaput,
François Couture, Luc Dallaire, François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon,
Martin de Lottinville, Marie-Ève Meunier, Julie Perreault,
Justin Rouette, Veronica Ruiz, Alain Smith, André Viola
Médias Transcontinental S.E.N.C.
PUBLISHER – VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER SOLUTIONS
Lise Paul-Hus
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
MARCH 2014
Catherine Elie
COVONE BROTHERS’ PIZZERIAS
6 ITALY ON THE MENU
ART DIRECTOR
Renée Grégoire
LIFESTYLE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Josée Larivée
Great pizza plus wine.
EDITORIAL STAFF
Catherine Bergeron, Myriam Huzel, Pascale Navarro
CONTRIBUTORS
12 VERSATILE VENETO
Italy’s most productive
Kler-Yann Bouteiller, Rémy Charest
COPY EDITORS wine region.
Joan Irving, Donna Jensen
TRANSLATOR
Felicity Munn 20 VENERABLE CHIANTI
Iconic wines.
ART
PHOTO: LOUISE SAVOIE.
Graphic artists
Blanca Arellano, Christiane Gauthier, Davor Nikolic QUEBEC TERROIR
DIGITAL PRE-PRESS SERVICES
Sylvain Renaud (Director)
Linda Desjardins (Production Coordinator)
28 DOMAINE DU RIDGE
Ex-politico Denis
Jules Alexandre Obry Paradis’s winery.
(Director of Deployment and Support Tablet Computers)
ON THE COVER
29 NEW ARRIVALS
514-845-2211
ADVERTISING SALES Brothers Fabrizio and Massimo Covone
Sabrina Boucher – SAQ bring Italian tradition alive at their Bottega
514-254-6000, ext. 5115 Details on our specially
SAQ CUSTOMER SERVICE
selected new releases. pizzerias in Montreal and Laval.
Montreal area: 514-254-2020
Elsewhere in Quebec: 1-866-873-2020
PRINTING
TC Imprimeries Transcontinental, a division of Imprimeries Transcontinental S.E.N.C.
All correspondence should be addressed to: 1100 René-Lévesque Blvd. West,
24th Floor, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 4X9, CANADA. Telephone: 514-392-9000
cellier@tc.tc
CELLIER NEW ARRIVALS, published eight times a year, is produced and published by
TC media (www.tc.tc), in association with the following SAQ departments: Marketing;
Purchasing and Merchandising; Les Cours Connaisseurs; Communications; Quality
UPCOMING EVENTS
Management; Sales; and Legal Services. SAQ headquarters is located at • SALON COCKTAILS, BIÈRES IMPORTÉES ET VINS D’ÉTÉ – LAVAL
905 De Lorimier Avenue, Montreal, Quebec, H2K 3V9. CELLIER is a registered trademark
of the Société des alcools du Québec. Any reproduction of articles, illustrations or
MARCH 1 AND 2
photographs is strictly prohibited. Prices for products in the magazine are subject to • WEST ISLAND WINE AND SPIRITS SHOW – POINTE-CLAIRE
change without notice. Legal Deposit: Bibliothèque nationale du Québec, National MARCH 19
Library of Canada. ISSN 1911-2238. Publications Mail Agreement 40064963. Return
undeliverable addresses to CELLIER, 905 De Lorimier, Montreal, Que. H2K 3V9.
Limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following
the release of products. Prices are subject to change without notice.
March 2014 3
FABULOUS FINDS OF ALL KINDS
MORE ACCESSIBLE THAN YOU THINK
MUST-TRY SELECTIONS
Affordable prices, New arrivals
starting at $14.00 every two weeks
Wines identified Products in
by taste tags limited quantities
Restaurateurs Fabrizio (left)
and Massimo at Bottega.
Brothers Fabrizio and Massimo Covone
ITALY ON THE MENU
Fabrizio is a pizzaiole and sommelier,
while Massimo is a born communicator
and avid wine lover. Together, the “ We have organic wines,
natural wines, wines made
from indigenous grapes, and
sibling restaurateurs embody both so-called ‘popular’ wines.
innovation and a profound attachment
to their Italian roots.
Our wine list is very diverse.
”
– Massimo Covone
W
hen Montreal’s Il Mulino was at a peak Massimo, “I’m going to go for an indigenous grape –
of popularity in the 1980s, restaurateur Nerello Mascalese, for example. Respect for terroir
Aniello Covone’s young sons Fabrizio and is a philosophy that applies to wine as well as food.”
Massimo would often play in the kitchen of But Bottega patrons who are less familiar with Italian
the legendary Italian eatery. Now 32 and 31, wines needn’t worry. For Bordeaux fans, for example,
respectively, the brothers are themselves the joint owners of Massimo might suggest a blend of Merlot and Cabernet
three Montreal-area establishments: the Bottega pizzerias Sauvignon, but in a Supertuscan version. For customers
in Montreal and Laval, and the classic Italian restaurant who swear only by Pinot Noir, he might recommend a
Hostaria on Rue Saint-Zotique. When Fabrizio opened Frappato. Mind you, the brothers have also been known
Bottega Pizzeria in Little Italy after spending two years to add French rosés to their wine list in summer. “They
learning the craft of pizza making in Naples, Massimo was were from Corsica though,”notes Massimo under Fabrizio’s
still studying political science – but already knew so much amused gaze. “So, historically, these wines were at one
about wine that it was he who created Bottega’s wine list. time Italian!”
Seven years later, Fabrizio obtained a sommelier diploma While the Covones always have a mild argument about
from the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec. what to open for their own enjoyment, they fully agree
But Massimo, assisted by Luigi Cecere, continues to oversee on the importance of broad representation. “A good wine
the wine at their restaurants. “Now that he’s a certified list has to be diverse,” Massimo declares. “In every price
sommelier, Fabrizio puts in his two cents worth too,” Massimo range [their wine list runs from $34 to $811], customers
says with feigned despair, eliciting a smile from his brother. have a choice of regions and grapes, and can find wines
The wine list is 100-percent Italian and features many from small properties and big producers alike. It’s a
small producers. “If I want a red from Sicily,” explains tricky balance and I’m very proud of it.”
March 2014 7
IN STORES
MARCH 6 AND 20
Pizzaiole Fabrizio says there
are three rules to making authentic
pizza: the right oven for the crust,
the right cooking for the tomato
sauce, and a little restraint in the
number of toppings. “Plus a suitable
Italian wine!” adds Massimo.
“ If I want a red from Sicily,”
explains Massimo, “I’m going
to go for an indigenous grape.
Respect for terroir is a
philosophy that applies to
wine as well as food.
” – Massimo Covone
Fabrizio and Massimo Covone, who grew up near the brothers hold a wine tasting with the wait staff once
Saint-Martin Boulevard in Laval, run an authentic Italian a week, before the restaurant opens. “Sometimes we hire
pizzeria – but that authenticity is of necessity nuanced. sommeliers or invite producers to lead our tastings.
“It’s a pizzeria that’s tailored to Quebec tastes, though We explore new blends and discuss them as a group.”
we try to follow certain precepts,” explains Fabrizio. Before uncorking a bottle for a customer, the number
“The oven was imported from Italy and can cook pizzas one rule for the brothers and their team is to listen to
in 90 seconds. We never cook tomato sauce before the patron. “Everyone evolves differently,” Massimo
brushing it onto the dough; it gets cooked along with observes. “When I started buying organic wines, for
the other ingredients. Lastly, we try to keep the toppings example, I didn’t like them. There’s a whole process
to three ingredients, four max. The flavours really come you have to go through before getting to a point where
through that way. Provided, of course, the ingredients you can appreciate them. I used to invariably go for
are top quality and super fresh.” Sangioveses and Cabernet Sauvignons. Now I’m
The brothers are of the opinion that regional pairings interested in vins de soif and indigenous grapes, and
are the best way to go. With local ingredients, local I like turning other people on to them as well.
wines, that’s often the ideal. But when you’re talking “I enjoy dealing with our more adventurous customers.
wines from Italy, where there are hundreds of indigenous And I am never afraid to open a bottle for them to taste
grapes, the food pairings are almost limitless. So as because, if the customer doesn’t like it, I’m certain
an exercise in what seems to have become a ritual, someone else will – and who knows? It might be me!”
8 March 2014
ITALY ON THE MENU (CONTINUED)
MARCH 6
EASY GOURMET
Sicilian Pizza from Bottega
RECIPE AT SAQ.COM
SICILIAN PIZZA JR 16.5
ITALY
2016
MASSERIA SETTEPORTE,
Tomato The San Marzano tomato Mozzarella The cheese’s ETNA ROSSO 2010, ETNA ROSSO
lays the foundation of this wine-pizza fattiness and saltiness enrich $25.75 12134145, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV
pairing. Its natural acidity and slight the pizza. The Etna Rosso
NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES)
sweetness call for a wine with similar counterbalances that with its
characteristics, and the Nerello great freshness. The small domaine of barely
15 hectares is located high
Mascalese grape, indigenous to Etna in the foothills of Mount Etna,
Rosso, displays those very qualities. Spicy oil If you want to drizzle one of the world’s most
RECIPE: DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT.
ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY.
spicy oil on your pizza, go for active volcanoes.
Eggplant A terrific regional it! The one used at Bottega GRAPE: NERELLO MASCALESE
pairing! Widely thought of as a is a secret recipe created by
vegetable but actually a fruit, as the chef. It’s rare for lovers of AROMAS
botanically speaking eggplant spicy foods and fine wines to COOKED STRAWBERRY,
HERBS, PEPPER, GRAPHITE
comes from a flower, it’s a popular be able to indulge in both at ACIDITY – MODERATE
ingredient in Sicilian cooking. the same time, but the Etna
Matching your wine with foods Rosso possesses the requisite SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
from the same region makes for freshness and structure to stand BODY – MEDIUM
a win-win equation. Plus, cooked up to spiciness. Easy on the oil,
eggplant has a toasted aroma that though, as once your mouth is PALATE – GENEROUS
nicely complements the faint wood on fire you won’t be able to taste WOOD – SUBTLE
impression in this wine. anything...
March 2014 9
IN STORES
MARCH 6 AND 20
ITALY ON THE MENU (CONTINUED)
MARCH 6
Italian Grapes
UNMATCHED DIVERSITY ITALY
2028
ELENA FUCCI, TITOLO 2010,
I
f you drink Italian wines, then Italy’s dominance in this realm was a AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE
you’re familiar with Sangiovese, bit of an eye-opener for the Wine Grapes $36.25 12134014, 750 ML,
14% ABV
Nero d’Avola and Nebbiolo, team. “Jancis asked me at the start to plan
PHOTOS: HELEN CATHCART/GETTY IMAGES (TABLE); FELIPE RODRIGUEZ/GETTY IMAGES (GLASS);
NUMBER OF CASES: 124 (6 BOTTLES)
and probably also with lesser- on writing a paragraph in the introduction
GIOVANNI SIMEONE/SIME (ST. MARK'S SQUARE); RICHARD JUNG/GETTY IMAGES (PIZZAS).
known grapes like Verdicchio, that would explain why the Iberian Dubbed the Barolo of the south,
Aglianico del Vulture gets its
Aglianico and Barbera. But that doesn’t peninsula has the most grape varieties,” name from the ancient lava flow
mean you don’t have a great deal recalls Vouillamoz, a Swiss grape on which the appellation sits.
more to explore: Italy boasts some geneticist who supplied the scientific data GRAPE: AGLIANICO
380 indigenous grape varieties, more for the massive project. “However, that was
than any other country in the world. before we’d completed all the research. AROMAS
This incredibly rich diversity comes into “And it’s actually not so surprising,” he RIPE FRUIT, EUCALYPTUS,
sharp relief with just a few comparisons: notes, “when you consider that Italy was LEATHER, INCENSE,
BALSAMIC NOTES
Italy has almost twice as many native one of the first countries to recognize the ACIDITY – MODERATE
grapes as France (204), and more than importance of its indigenous grapes, back
twice as many as Spain and Portugal in the 1970s and 1980s.” As a result, more SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
combined (84 and 77 respectively). So and more Fiano, Freisa, Corvina and other BODY – MEDIUM
reports Wine Grapes, the encyclopedic wines made from native Italian grapes are
guide by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding now being sold around the world, for the PALATE – STRUCTURED
and José Vouillamoz that’s considered the greater pleasure of curious wine lovers WOOD – EVIDENT
Bible of grape varieties. open to new experiences.
10 March 2014WINE TRIVIA, ITALIAN STYLE
The whole wine business is taken very seriously in Italy. Well, usually, anyway...
WHIPLASH AT VINITALY
Producers vie for attention at Vinitaly
by staffing their kiosks with gorgeous
male and female models. “Vinitaly is the
only wine fair in the world where you
can get whiplash just walking past the
stands,” wine columnist Tim Atkin wrote
in The Guardian a few years ago. “The
general rule seems to be that the worse
the product,” he added, “the greater the
concentration of male and female models
offering to pour you a glass.”
SHADY SAYING
Venetians will say “andemo bèver
un’ombra” when inviting someone
for a drink – “let’s go drink a shade.”
The quirky expression dates to the
Middle Ages when wine merchants
at the foot of the clock tower in
St. Mark’s Square would sell their
wares to the thirsty throngs. As the
shadow cast by the tower shifted,
the vendors would move their stalls
along with it to keep the wine cool
and their customers in the shade.
THE MICHELANGELO OF PIZZA
Pizzaiole Gabriele Bonci creates some
GRAPE GOOF 1,500 different combinations of toppings
every year at his acclaimed Rome eatery,
After the Second World War, quite Pizzarium, located a stone’s throw from
a lot of Cabernet Franc was planted in the Vatican. Imagine the wine-pairing
Veneto. Several years later, it emerged possibilities! Some of Bonci’s concoctions
that these vines were in fact Carignan. seem a little over the top, like the goat-
Not unusually for Italy, the response cheese and raspberry pizza – but food
was to carry on regardless, because critics say it’s delicious. And no less an
changing the regulations would have authority than Vogue magazine dubbed
been far too complicated... Bonci “the Michelangelo of pizza.”
March 2014 11In the Vanguard
VERSATILE VENETO A tasting at the Giorgio
Cecchetto winery in
Veneto’s Treviso province.You can’t think of Venice without
picturing gondolas, such an integral
part of the cityscape. Charming
Italy’s most productive wine region serves up fabulously canals, romantic Italians, fine cuisine
diverse foods – all the better to go with its impressive and exceptional wines also help make
the Veneto region unique.
Proseccos, Soaves and Valpolicellas.
PHOTOS: LUCA DA ROS/SIME (TASTING) ; PETE GODING/4CORNERS/SIME (GONDOLAS) ;
S
ituated in northeast Italy, Veneto vegetables from the saline soils and offering
stretches westward to scenic Lake a wealth of fresh fish and seafood.
Garda from Venice on the Adriatic As if to echo all that geographical and
Sea and northward to the Alps from culinary diversity, Veneto wines run the
the vast, fertile plain of the Po. At gamut: festive sparklers, light whites,
the heart of this region is Verona, famous as fruity and age-worthy reds, and dessert
the setting for Romeo and Juliet, but also as a wines. There’s something for every course
wine- and food-industry hub. Vinitaly, the top of every meal. “Traditionally in Veneto,
MATTEO CARASSALE/SIME (MASK).
annual exhibition devoted to Italian wines, is people see wine as something that highlights
but one of the international salons held there. food and vice versa,” notes sommelier
When it comes to local foods to go with Katie Parla, who’s lived in the region for
the region’s wines, prosperous Veneto is several years. That’s why simple, easy-
like an enormous pantry, growing rice and drinking wines are in favour, particularly
corn, making cheeses, drawing exceptional on Verona dinner tables.
March 2014 13IN STORES
MARCH 6 AND 20
VERSATILE VENETO (CONTINUED)
SOAVE WITH SEAFOOD
In hilly Soave, Veneto’s most productive appellation, adds, but the overall quality has greatly improved.
the wines are blends with a minimum 70-percent High-profile American wine writer Matt Kramer goes
Garganega, a late-ripening grape variety that presents further. “Forget everything you thought you knew about
notes of lemon and almond, occasionally with a spicy Soave,” he declares. “Today’s best Soaves will astonish
touch. Most often the other grape in the blend is you with their Chablis-like minerality and – here’s a big
Trebbiano di Soave, but Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay surprise – their ability to age for a decade or more.”
and Trebbiano Toscano are also used. With time, the wines take on lovely floral or apricot notes.
Soave became Veneto’s most prolific appellation Shrimp, white fish with fennel or seafood fritto misto
by creating big industrial wine brands that sold well are mouth-watering with a refreshing Soave. Or do as the
internationally due to one factor: price. “As a youth, I was Venetians do: Pair your Soave with a small-shrimp risotto
familiar with Soave purely because it was the cheapest or sarde in saor – fried sardine fillets marinated for
wine,” laughs Jeremy Parzen, whose Do Bianchi blog is 24 hours in vinegar flavoured with small onions. Another
a leading resource for information on Italian wine. Mass- typical Veneto dish that complements Soave, risi e bisi,
produced wines are still very much in evidence, Parzen or risotto and peas, makes terrific comfort food.
The Treviso region’s verdant valleys abound with
vineyards. It’s also a favourite area for hikers and
other sports-minded visitors.
PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY.
PHOTOS: ARCANGELO PIAI/SIME (VINEYARD). RECIPE : DANA DOROBANTU,
14 March 2014MARCH 20
WA 90
2018
ITALY
MARION 2009, EASY GOURMET
VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE Roast guinea fowl
$39.00 10710268, 750 ML,
14% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 224
RECIPE AT SAQ.COM
Some of the grapes used
for this wine are dried to
concentrate the flavours, VALPOLICELLA WITH PIZZA AND MORE With guinea fowl, the
resulting in a richer, more Inland, tastes run to meatier, more rustic fare featuring tendency is to uncork a
generous Valpolicella. chicken, rabbit or, in a traditional stew called pastissada, white. But since red wine
GRAPES: CORVINA GENTILE, horsemeat. Such dishes naturally call for red wine, is one of the ingredients
CORVINA GROSSA, RONDINELLA, in our Easy Gourmet recipe,
TEROLDEGO which has a lengthy history in the region: Roman poet
Virgil sang the praises of Raetian wine, made in Veneto, I recommend accompanying
AROMAS while 13th-century decrees by Frederick I, Holy Roman this particular guinea-
COOKED FRUIT, WILD FRUIT, Emperor, coined the term Valpolicella, a Greco-Latin fowl dish with a flavourful
GRENADINE SYRUP, word meaning “valley of many cellars.” medium-bodied red that
SWEET SPICES
ACIDITY – DISCREET Though a handful of artisan producers like Prà and has soft tannins, such
Quintarelli still hold aloft the torch of tradition, the as the delightful Marion
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY Valpolicella appellation now tends toward a modern Valpolicella.
BODY – MEDIUM wine style in which the classic acidity is toned –Élyse Lambert, sommelier
down in favour of ripeness, softness and oakiness.
PALATE – GENEROUS Valpolicella’s reds are blends that typically contain
WOOD – PRONOUNCED mainly Corvina. They range from easy-drinking
and lively in the generic Valpolicella appellation to
March 2014 15VERSATILE VENETO (CONTINUED)
Dating from the 11th century, the
Carnival of Venice is world famous for
the beautiful, extravagant costumes
worn by participants.
sumptuous and deep in Amarone della Valpolicella,
whose wines, made from partially dried grapes in the
appassimento method, are capable of decades of aging.
Veneto reds, in short, are suitable for everything from
quick meals to special occasions.
Lighter Valpolicellas (such as Bardolino and other
regional wines made from more rustic grapes like Refosco)
go particularly well with pizza or pasta in tomato sauce.
More serious Valpolicellas, particularly Amarones, are
wonderful with game, but they’re also delicious with simple
pan-sautéed wild mushrooms on a bed of polenta, the
cornmeal dish so popular in northern Italy. Or recreate
a much-loved Verona treat by uncorking an Amarone with
a well-aged Asiago, a gem of a local cheese: potent flavours
upon which to meditate before the dessert course.
DIVINE DESSERT WINES
In using the appassimento method, Veneto winemakers
were traditionally seeking to make dessert wines, called
Reciotos in Italian. In fact, Amarone is sometimes described
as “a Recioto that failed to stop fermenting.” During If you want to cook like the Venetians
fermentation, yeast working in an environment of very do, check out Cinzia Armanini’s Venezia
concentrated sugar is not always able to convert all that in Cucina: The Flavours of Venice.
sugar into alcohol. This results in a sweet wine that’s utterly Not only does it contain 80 recipes,
appropriate with dessert. from antipasti to seafood to desserts,
There are white (Recioto di Soave) and red (Recioto the book also takes the reader on a
della Valpolicella) Reciotos. The whites are particularly gorgeously illustrated journey through
suited to almond or walnut desserts, while the reds go Venice’s culinary history and culture.
well with chocolate or tiramisu. Sweet without being rich (Sime Books, Editor)
and supported by good acidity, they tempt you to keep on
slowly sipping while dreaming of leisurely times in Venice.
16 March 2014IN STORES
MARCH 6 AND 20
MARCH 20
Peperonata is
wonderful with pasta
or with grilled meats
cooked rare to bring
out the best in the
accompanying wine.
EASY GOURMET
Peperonata
2020
ITALY
RECIPE AT SAQ.COM VIGNALTA, MARRANO
2007, VENETO
$28.90 12131391, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
Italy’s ratatouille NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES)
The basic peperonata, featuring and that in this instance echo Veneto property Vignalta is
red peppers, onions and tomatoes, the flavours in the peperonata.
PHOTOS: SANDRA RACCANELLO/SIME (GLASS) ; MATTEO CARASSALE/SIME (WOMAN).
splendidly situated at elevation –
is from Sicily. In some regions It also has a small vegetal accent hence its name, a contraction of
eggplant is added, making for that, far from being a defect, vigna and alta, or “high vines.”
RECIPE : DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT.
ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY.
a softer texture. Venetians adds complexity and teases GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
like sweet-and-sour fare and out the fresh basil and thyme MERLOT
often incorporate vinegar into in the peperonata. Incidentally, AROMAS
peperonata. Our recipe calls for because Marrano is a tannic DARK FRUIT, UNDERBRUSH,
green peppers, a little garlic and wine, it’s a great bet with grilled LEATHER, ROASTED NOTES,
MOLASSES, BUTTER
a splash of red-wine vinegar. meat, be it beef, venison or ACIDITY – MODERATE
duck. Just make sure that the
In the glass meat is cooked on the rare side, SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
Marrano, containing Cabernet which will soften the tannins and BODY – FULL
Sauvignon and Merlot, makes optimize the match.
a good pairing because it has PALATE – GENEROUS
the bell-pepper aromas that are – Élyse Lambert, sommelier WOOD – PRONOUNCED
typical to Bordeaux-style blends,
March 2014 17VERSATILE VENETO (CONTINUED)
MARCH 20
ITALY
PIONA, CAMPO MASSIMO
2008, VENETO
VENETIAN GRAPES
$19.40 12132035, 750 ML,
12.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
In addition to dominating Italy in wine In Valpolicella, small quantities are Perfect for the first warm
volume, Veneto is distinguished by its great permitted of charmingly named grapes days of spring, and a Cellier
favourite. Has a scrumptious
diversity. No fewer than 27 indigenous such as Corvinone, Oseleta, Forsellina, quality that will beguile
PHOTOS: ARCANGELO PIAI/SIME (GRAPES) ; MAURO FERMARIELLO (G. PRÀ).
grapes, one of the highest totals in Italy, Rossignola and Dindarella. Beaujolais fans.
are under vine in the region. On top of that, In whites, Garganega is a biggie. It’s GRAPE: CORVINA
international grapes such as Merlot and blended with a range of other grapes,
Cabernet Sauvignon have been widely especially in Soaves, and is also used in
used in Veneto for several decades. Gambellara, a neighbouring appellation AROMAS
Native grapes include intriguing varieties like to Soave, and in Bianco di Custoza wines. RED FRUIT, FRUIT DROPS,
FLORAL NOTES
Manzoni Bianco, a full and flavourful white, and The white grape Pinot Grigio is used ACIDITY – MODERATE
Raboso, a brawny red that takes time to soften. in varietal wines as opposed to blends,
But the key roles are played by a small number and its export success was one of the SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
of grapes used primarily in blends. spearheads in Veneto’s growth. BODY – LIGHT
Corvina is the mainstay in Valpolicella, Last but not least, the region’s Proseccos,
Amarone and Bardolino wines. It’s usually sparkling wines made from the Glera PALATE – DELICATE
the majority grape and usually blended grape, have also been a great international WOOD – UNOAKED
with Rondinella and, for acidity, Molinara. hit for Veneto.
18 March 2014BEHIND THE WINE GRAZIANO PRÀ | VENETO
AT A GLANCE MARCH 20
In 30 years as a winemaker,
Graziano Prà has acquired
near legendary status
in Veneto for boosting
the overall quality of the
region’s wines.
Along with producers such
as Pieropan, Inama and
Anselmi, he has contributed
significantly to restoring the
reputation of Soave whites.
Prà cuvées are exemplary
and have frequently
been awarded the Italian
magazine Gambero Rosso’s
highest rating, Tre Bicchieri.
Graziano Prà is • His philosophy After he and his brother Sergio took over ITALY
widely credited their father’s property in 1983, Graziano Prà concluded that to PRÀ, MONTE GRANDE 2012,
SOAVE CLASSICO
with being one of improve wine quality he was going to have to rethink everything
$30.00 12132140, 750 ML,
a handful of world- from scratch. “I realized that at winemaking school we had 13.5% ABV
class producers been taught to put right in the cellar what had been done wrong NUMBER OF CASES: 125
who have returned in the vineyard.” Prà is a player in the Soave
Soave Classico to revival. Low-yield old vines
its former glory. • His backstory Prà worked hard at every level. Inspired grown at elevation make this
by the Slow Food movement, he went organic in the vineyard, an exceptional cuvée.
improved viticultural methods and fermented his whites in GRAPES: GARGANEGA,
TREBBIANO DI SOAVE
stainless steel vats, all with a view to encouraging clear, precise
expression in the wines.
AROMAS
• His rise He gradually expanded the family holdings to PEAR, BAKED APPLE,
SWEET SPICES
23 hectares from five, adding parcels from the region’s best ACIDITY – MODERATE
vineyards. His influence also grew, and his techniques now
serve as a model for young producers. SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
• His wines The Prà winery concentrates on Soave whites
and the virtues of that zone’s primary grape, Garganega. In PALATE – GENEROUS
the mid-2000s, it also began producing high-quality reds that WOOD – SUBTLE
were soon garnering top scores from international critics.Tuscany VENERABLE CHIANTI
Sourced from Sangiovese
grown in the picturesque
Tuscan hills, Chianti is
indisputably one of Italy’s
most iconic wines.
G
iven Italy’s rich and varied array of
wines, it’s remarkable that Chianti
remains practically synonymous with
Italian wine. Drawn from an enormous
appellation that’s also the country’s
most prolific, turning out more than 100 million
litres annually, Chianti is world famous.
IDENTITY CRISIS
Geographic location and history alone could The influence of the Supertuscans, some of which
account for this region’s international prestige. Both are composed entirely of Merlot, Cabernet and other
its simpler wines and its age-worthy Riserva cuvées Bordeaux grapes, has sparked a debate over the
are sourced from vineyards situated around some identity of Tuscan wines in general. Should only
of the world’s loveliest cities, including Florence,
PHOTOS: SEBASTIANO SCATTOLIN/SIME (CAR); MAURIZIO RELLINI/SIME (GLASS).
Italian grape varieties be used, or is it okay to
Siena and Pisa. But Chianti wines are also admired
on their own merits, particularly after the quality
add international grapes to the mix? In Chianti,
gains of recent decades. producers are permitted to use Cabernet and Merlot
Underpinning the Chianti signature is the Sangiovese as complementary grapes to Sangiovese, which gives
grape, comprising a minimum 80-percent of the wine. the wines a rounder fruitiness and softens the often-
The very name Sangiovese is evocative: It translates bracing acidity and somewhat astringent tannins.
as “blood of Jupiter” (Giove in Italian), which suggests Then again, acidity and tannins are the hallmarks
a strong character – apt indeed for Sangiovese.
Spirited on the palate, Chianti has lively flavours of red
of traditional Chiantis, and a number of producers
cherry that are sometimes accentuated with tobacco. continue to proudly tread that path. This can be a bit
With aging, it acquires floral or slightly animal notes. confusing for consumers, but reading the back label
Simpler versions of Chianti are pizza wines par will clarify which wine style you’re dealing with.
excellence, but this is also a wine that can display
complexity and elegance, especially after cellaring.
March 2014 21VENERABLE CHIANTI (CONTINUED)
PICI WITH TOMATO-
LAMB SAUCE
Recipe by Pasquale Vari
INGREDIENTS
Sauce
1 454-g (1-lb) lamb shoulder,
bone and excess fat removed
45 mL (3 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil
RECIPE: DANA DOROBANTU, PHOTOGRAPHER; WILLIAM COLE, ASSISTANT. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY.
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 sprig rosemary
3 sage leaves
250 mL (1 cup) red wine (Chianti)
750 mL (3 cups) tomato purée RECIPE AT SAQ.COM
(passata)
250 mL (1 cup) water
DIRECTIONS 4 SERVINGS (main) OR 8 SERVINGS (starter)
1 pinch crushed red pepper Preparation: 15 minutes Cooking: 1 hour 20 minutes
Salt and freshly ground
black pepper, to taste STEP 1 and season with the salt and pepper. Leave to
Cut the lamb into cubes of about simmer, covered, for at least one hour, stirring
Pasta 1 1/2 cm (1/2 inch). occasionally. Add a little more water if the
360 g (13 oz) pici* sauce thickens too much during cooking.
STEP 2
30 mL (2 tbsp) flat-leaf parsley,
In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil and STEP 3
chopped
lightly brown the lamb cubes on all sides. Add Cook the pasta in boiling salted water. Drain
30 mL (2 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil the onion, garlic, rosemary and sage leaves. and toss in a bowl with half the sauce. Mix
60 g (1/4 cup) grated Pecorino Cook on very low for 10 minutes. Incorporate in the chopped parsley and the olive oil.
Toscano** the wine and let reduce by half for about eight
minutes, scraping the brown bits from the STEP 4
*Pici is available at fine food stores. bottom of the pan. Add the tomato purée. Then Divide the pasta among plates, top
Spaghetti can be used as a substitute. pour the water into the purée jar and add to with the rest of the sauce and sprinkle
** Pecorino Toscano, an ewe’s milk cheese, is the preparation. Stir in the crushed red pepper with the grated cheese.
available in specialty cheese shops across Quebec.
22 March 2014IN STORES
MARCH 6 AND 20
MARCH 6 CLASSIC
REGIONAL COMBO
Food and wine are regional throughout Italy,
and Tuscany is the only place where I have
ever eaten pici (sometimes spelled pinci or
picci), a thick tube-shaped pasta like a fat
spaghetti. Of course, the pasta isn’t what
makes the pairing. Pici is here served with a
tomato-lamb sauce. To pull off a match with
tomatoey dishes, you want a wine that’s not
too tannic and has good acidity – precisely
the qualities of Fontodi’s Chianti Classico,
crafted from Sangiovese, a grape so widely
cultivated in Tuscany that it virtually defines
the region. In addition to tomato, the sauce
contains lamb, rosemary and sage, making
it rich and complex.
Such flavourful fare calls for a flavourful
wine, and the organically grown Fontodi
fits the bill: It has evident but not excessive
tannins, and its notes of underbrush and
garrigue are a foil for the meat and herbs
in the sauce, creating good balance.
Buon appetito!
– Élyse Lambert, sommelier
WA 92 WS 91 Hambar Restaurant,
2023
in Old Montreal.
ITALY
FONTODI 2009,
CHIANTI CLASSICO
$27.75 00879841, 750 ML,
14% ABV
WHAT A HAM!
NUMBER OF CASES: 131
Finesse and character mingle in
this cuvée, aged for 12 months
in French oak. The 70-hectare
property is certified organic.
T
GRAPE: SANGIOVESE he hanging hams in its octogenarian who introduced him to this
huge window telegraph to traditional savoury pork roast and who was
AROMAS passersby that Montreal’s willing to share his recipe and savoir faire.
TOBACCO, BLACK CHERRY, Hambar Restaurant Bar is one The Hambar wine list, meanwhile, boasts
ANISE NOTES, LICORICE
ACIDITY – MODERATE establishment where the whole private imports and a vintage section that will
deli concept is practically a religion. We’re satisfy the most discerning palate. But then,
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY spotlighting Italy in this issue, so the fantastic Poitras was once the sommelier at Au Pied
BODY – MEDIUM melt-in-your-mouth porchetta on Hambar’s de Cochon. Speaking of wine, should you be
deli platter is worth singling out. “It’s made in the mood for charcuteries, this Fontodi
PALATE – GENEROUS here,” owner Philippe Poitras says proudly. possesses the requisite freshness to take on
WOOD – EVIDENT He fell in love with porchetta on a trip to the fat and saltiness in prosciutto, sausages
Italy and brought to Montreal the Abruzzi and other deli meats.
March 2014 23IN STORES
MARCH 6 AND 20
VENERABLE CHIANTI (CONTINUED)
WINERY OLIVE OILS
On Italian dinner tables,
the olive oil is at least as
important as the wine.
And in Tuscan wine
country, olive trees grow
alongside grapevines.
Almost all wineries produce
and sell their own oils,
which just like the wines
have protected designations
of origin. Olive oils made in
PHOTOS: COLIN DUTTON/SIME (OLIVE OIL); MICK ROCK/CEPHAS (VINEYARD).
the Chianti Classico DOCG,
for example, are entitled
to be labelled with that
appellation. Tuscan olive
oils, produced from specific
olive varieties such as
Frantoio, are among Italy’s
tastiest. They are intense
and piquant, many carrying
the peppery note that’s the
region’s trademark.
24 March 2014MARCH 6
The Chianti Rufina appellation just east of Florence boasts spectacular scenery. The steep hills are part
of the Apennines, a mountain range that runs the length of Italy, skirting Tuscany en route.
IWC 95 WS 89
THE SEVEN SATELLITES
2023
ITALY
FATTORIA SELVAPIANA,
BUCERCHIALE RISERVA 2009,
CHIANTI RUFINA
$32.50 12132123, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
C
hianti Classico, the most to rivaling Chianti Classico: The zone’s
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
prestigious delimited distinctive wines were garnering praise
The property in the classic zone in Chianti, has seven as far back as the 18th century. The famed
appellation has been owned
by Francesco Giuntini Antinori so-called satellite appellations. Frescobaldi family is a major player in
since 1957. This, its flagship Collectively they account Rufina, owning fully 20 percent of the
wine, is sourced from old vines. for a little more than 6,000 of Chianti’s vineyard area.
GRAPE: SANGIOVESE total 24,000 hectares of vines. Most Rufino vineyards are on clay-
Like Chianti Classico and the limestone soils, very beneficial to vines.
AROMAS generic Chianti appellation, each of The appellation is protected to the north
DARK FRUIT, HERBS, the seven peripheral appellations has by a small mountain chain that keeps
DRIED FLOWERS, ANISE, its own identity. They are: Chianti Colli the climate warmer and drier than
PEANUT, LEATHER
ACIDITY – MODERATE Senesi, Chianti Colli Pisane, Chianti the regional norm. Meanwhile, sea
Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colli Aretini breezes from the Mediterranean exert
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY (respectively the hills around Siena, a moderating influence, enabling slower
BODY – FULL Pisa, Florence and Arezzo), Chianti ripening that promotes better aroma
Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli development. Yields are limited and
PALATE – GENEROUS and Chianti Rufina. there are many old vines. All these
WOOD – EVIDENT Chianti Rufina has long been seen elements reinforce the character of
as the appellation that comes closest the wines – and their aging potential.
March 2014 25WINE REGION TUSCANY | CHIANTI CLASSICO
• Chianti heartland Chianti Classico, Chianti’s
“classic” zone, was given its geographical delimitation
by the Medici Grand Duke Cosimo III in an edict of 1716
(and expanded in 1932). The historic sector, located in
the heart of the region, produces wines that have red-fruit
notes, good acidity and firm tannins, and are considered
the best Chiantis.
• Big-name producers Accounting for just under
one-third of the Chianti vineyard area, the Chianti
Classico zone turns out from 33- to 40-million bottles
a year, including wines by top Italian producers like
Antinori, Frescobaldi and Banfi.
• Comeback kid In the 1960s and ’70s, Chianti
produced huge volumes of light reds that contained up
to 30-percent white grapes. All that changed in 1984,
when new rules dramatically cut yields and altered the
permitted grapes, including disallowing the addition of
white grapes. The upshot was greatly improved quality.
Paula Papini Cook grew • Appealing and age-worthy Today’s Chianti
up in Saint-Bruno-de- Classico wines are made from 80- to 100-percent
Montarville and studied Sangiovese, with local (Canaiolo and Colorino) or
winemaking in France international (Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah or Merlot)
and Italy. She’s been varieties as the other grapes in the blend. The wines
managing her parents’ can be fruity and easy-drinking, but the Riserva cuvées
Chianti Classico winery, are very age-worthy.
Le Miccine, since 2010.
GR
2019
ITALY
LE MICCINE, RISERVA 2010,
MARCH 6
Florence Chianti CHIANTI CLASSICO
Rùfina $24.80 11580135, 750 ML,
PHOTOS: MICHELE BORZONI/TERRAPROJECT/CONTRASTO (P. P. COOK); MAURIZIO RELLINI/SIME.
Pisa 13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 149
Crafted by Quebecer Paula Papini
Cook, this cuvée earned the top
tre bicchieri score in the prestigious
Chianti Gambero Rosso guide.
Chianti Classico GRAPE: SANGIOVESE
AROMAS
FRESH HERBS, BLACK
Siena CHERRY, UNDERBRUSH
Tuscany ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENTIN STORES
MARCH 6 AND 20
VENERABLE CHIANTI (CONTINUED)
MARCH 6
WHERE SANGIOVESE RULES
Chianti aside, Tuscany as a wine-producing region revolves around
one common factor: the dominant role played by the Sangiovese
grape. It rules in Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany's most revered
appellation), Morellino di Scansano and Carmignano. It's significant A festive dinner in Siena’s
in the Bolgheri and Maremma appellations, where Supertuscans Piazza Santo Spirito on
and international varieties enjoy greater favour. One of our New the eve of Italy’s most
Arrivals, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, is a Sangiovese famous horserace, the
produced in the town of Montepulciano – and is not to be confused Palio di Siena, which
with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, crafted in the Abruzzi region attracts spectators from
from the Montepulciano grape. around the world.
JR 16.5 WS 92
2025
ITALY
CANNETO, RISERVA 2007,
VINO NOBILE DI
MONTEPULCIANO
$34.75 12108756, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
The Canneto estate was
bought by a dozen Vino Nobile
enthusiasts who wanted to
further their passion. This wine
is a Cellier favourite.
GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, MERLOT,
CABERNET
AROMAS
BLACK CHERRY,
CHOCOLATE, FLOWERS,
HERBS
ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT
March 2014 27The winemaking team uses
oak barrels for two to six
months before switching
to stainless steel. “We’re
aiming for freshness and
smoothness, with a touch
of wood,” says winery
owner Paradis.
The proprietor is proud of
Clos du Maréchal, made
mainly from Maréchal Foch.
“It’s a hybrid grape that’s
more difficult to work with
than other, hardier hybrids
because it has to be well
protected in winter,” Paradis
says. But the extra effort
is worth it.
Quebec Terroir
FROM POLITICS TO PARADISE CANADA
DOMAINE DU RIDGE,
The love affair continues between former federal CLOS DU MARÉCHAL 2012
RED WINE, QUEBEC
cabinet minister Denis Paradis and the winery $16.90 10220373, 750 ML,
he created nearly two decades ago. 12% ABV
Ex-politician and lawyer Denis Paradis
hasn’t looked back since he planted
“M
y neighbour offered me plants at $1.50 per and I thought that was
the first vines at his impressive
such a great price I bought 2,000 of them,” Denis Paradis recalls Saint-Armand property in 1996.
with a laugh. After planting those Seyval Blanc vines 18 years ago, PAIRINGS: GRILLED CHICKEN,
he added many other grape varieties and now his vineyard in the VEGETARIAN PIZZA
Brome-Missisquoi region has about 55,000 vines, making it one GRAPES: MARÉCHAL FOCH,
of Quebec’s largest. “It took me 15 years to get a return on my investment, but LUCY KUHLMAN, DE CHAUNAC
I’d do it all over again tomorrow,” declares the one-time politician. Some 3,000
people visit his Domaine du Ridge in Saint-Armand every summer, and Paradis AROMAS
personally greets all of them. “I’ve learned that when it comes to producing wine, RED FRUIT, FLOWERS,
HERBS, VEGETAL NOTES
you cannot play it by ear,” he observes. Two French winemakers, the well-known ACIDITY – LIVELY
Jean Berthelot and the young Julia Torchut, a native of Bordeaux, craft the wines.
There’s also a vineyard manager and “a couple of kids in their 20s,” as Paradis SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
PHOTO: DOMINIQUE LAFOND.
affectionately refers to them, who handle sales and marketing. “With this kind BODY – LIGHT
of team, my ultimate goal is to produce the best red wine in Quebec.”
PALATE – GENEROUS
For information on Quebec alcohol producers, go to alcoolsduterroir.com WOOD – UNOAKED
(in French only).
28 March 2014 Limited quantities. Vintages may vary from store to store.MARCH 6
JR 16 GR
WS 89
2018 2017 P. 26 2019
ITALY ITALY ITALY ITALY ITALY
PANIZZI 2012, VERNACCIA CARUSSIN, LIA VÍ 2012, PLANETA, PLUMBAGO 2011, CASTELLO D’ALBOLA, RISERVA LE MICCINE, RISERVA 2010,
DI SAN GIMIGNANO BARBERA D’ASTI SICILIA 2008, CHIANTI CLASSICO CHIANTI CLASSICO
$20.90 12102821, 750 ML, $21.85 12131121, 750 ML, $22.20 11724776, 750 ML, $23.95 10254717, 750 ML, $24.80 11580135, 750 ML,
13% ABV 13% ABV 13.5% ABV 13% ABV 13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 200 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 125 NUMBER OF CASES: 250 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 140 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 149
Giovanni Panizzi founded his Family winery produces Label depicts plumbago, Horizontal tanks to facilitate Crafted by Quebecer Paula
eponymous winery in 1989. traditional-style wines. a flowering plant that grows extraction were installed during Papini Cook, this cuvée earned
It specializes in Vernaccia, Lia Ví has no contact with around Planeta’s vineyards modernization of the winery, the top tre bicchieri score
an iconic Tuscan grape. wood so retains fruit purity. in western Sicily. owned by Zonin for more than in the prestigious Gambero
PAIRING: COD WITH PAIRING: MARINATED PAIRING: HERB-AND- 30 years. Rosso guide.
LEMON BUTTER FLANK STEAK PROSCIUTTO-CRUSTED PORK PAIRINGS: LASAGNA, ITALIAN- PAIRING: CHICKEN CHASSEUR
TENDERLOIN STYLE VEAL WITH TOMATOES
GRAPE: VERNACCIA GRAPE: BARBERA GRAPE: SANGIOVESE
GRAPE: NERO D’AVOLA GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CANAIOLO
AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS
VEGETAL, RESIN, ALMOND, CHERRY, STRAWBERRY, BLACKBERRY, PEONY, RIPE FRUIT, CHERRY, FRESH HERBS, BLACK
WHITE FRUIT SWEET SPICES, VIOLETS MINT, PRUNE LEATHER, TOBACCO CHERRY, UNDERBRUSH
ACIDITY – LIVELY ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – DISCREET ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT
March 2014 29MARCH 6
JR 16.5 WA 92 JR 16.5+
WS 91
P. 9 2016 P. 23 2023 2020 2019 2021
ITALY ITALY ITALY ITALY ITALY
MASSERIA SETTEPORTE, FONTODI 2009, FRATELLI ALESSANDRIA, CARPINETO, RISERVA 2009, ISOLE E OLENA 2011,
ETNA ROSSO 2010, ETNA ROSSO CHIANTI CLASSICO PRINSIÒT 2011, LANGHE CHIANTI CLASSICO CHIANTI CLASSICO
$25.75 12134145, 750 ML, $27.75 00879841, 750 ML, $28.45 12131104, 750 ML, $28.50 10300023, 750 ML, $29.95 00515296, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV 14% ABV 14.5% ABV 13.5% ABV 14% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 131 NUMBER OF CASES: 100 NUMBER OF CASES: 149 NUMBER OF CASES: 125
The small domaine of barely Finesse and character mingle in A wine to delight Piedmont fans. A first-rate Chianti at a Owner Paolo de Marchi,
15 hectares is located high this cuvée, aged for 12 months Prinsiòt means “little princes,” reasonable price. Quebecers are passionate proponent of
in the foothills of Mount Etna, in French oak. The 70-hectare an historical nickname for the very fond of Carpineto wines. Sangiovese, is recognized
one of the world’s most property is certified organic. Alessandria family. PAIRING: ROAST CHICKEN worldwide as one of the top
active volcanoes. PAIRING: BEEF STEW WITH PAIRING: VEAL SCALOPPINE WITH CHANTERELLES experts in the variety.
PAIRING: PESTO PASTA WITH STAR ANISE WITH TOMATO SAUCE GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CANAIOLO PAIRING: DUCK BREAST WITH
GRILLED CHICKEN GRAPE: SANGIOVESE GRAPE: NEBBIOLO MUSHROOMS
GRAPE: NERELLO MASCALESE GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CANAIOLO
AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS
COOKED STRAWBERRY, TOBACCO, BLACK CHERRY, RED FLOWERS, SPICES, DARK FRUIT, CEDAR, RED FRUIT, COCOA,
HERBS, PEPPER, GRAPHITE ANISE NOTES, LICORICE CHERRY, CEDAR TOBACCO, SPICES WOOD, HERBS
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED
WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT
30 March 2014ICON LEGEND
WHITE WINE RED WINE Favourite
SOURCES CITED: WINE PROFILE CHART
drink now through hold until GR: G ambero Rosso
drink now the year indicated the year indicated ( , , , JR: Jancis Robinson (out of 20)
Presence and intensity
red glasses for superior wines) WA : Wine Advocate, Robert Parker of acidity, body, wood
The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply IWC : International Wine Cellar, (out of 100) and other elements at
a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule. Stephen Tanzer (out of 100) WS : Wine Spectator (out of 100) the time of tasting.
MARCH 6
IWC 95 IWC 90 JR 16.5 WA 91
WS 89 WS 92 WS 90
P. 25 2023 2023 P. 27 2025 2020 P. 10 2028
ITALY ITALY ITALY ITALY ITALY
FATTORIA SELVAPIANA, BRUNO GIACOSA, NEBBIOLO CANNETO, RISERVA 2007, BRANCAIA, RISERVA 2010, ELENA FUCCI, TITOLO 2010,
BUCERCHIALE RISERVA 2009, D’ALBA 2011, NEBBIOLO D’ALBA VINO NOBILE DI CHIANTI CLASSICO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE
CHIANTI RUFINA $33.50 12102848, 750 ML, MONTEPULCIANO $35.00 10431091, 750 ML, $36.25 12134014, 750 ML,
$32.50 12132123, 750 ML, 14% ABV $34.75 12108756, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV 14% ABV
14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 125 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 121 NUMBER OF CASES: 124 (6 BOTTLES)
NUMBER OF CASES: 125 The name of this noble grape, NUMBER OF CASES: 125 After buying the then- Dubbed the Barolo of the south,
The property in the classic used in the great Barolos The Canneto estate was abandoned Brancaia in 1981, Aglianico del Vulture gets its
appellation has been owned and Barbarescos, references bought by a dozen Vino Nobile the Widmers rejuvenated the name from the ancient lava flow
by Francesco Giuntini Antinori the morning mists in the enthusiasts who wanted to estate and now produce tasty on which the appellation sits.
since 1957. This, its flagship Piedmont hills. further their passion. This wine modern wines. PAIRING: GRILLED GAME
wine, is sourced from old vines. PAIRING: MUSHROOM is a Cellier favourite. PAIRING: ROSEMARY LEG OF LAMB GRAPE: AGLIANICO
PAIRING: STEWED LAMB OSSO BUCCO PAIRING: LIGHTLY SPICED GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, MERLOT
GRAPE: NEBBIOLO PORK TAJINE
GRAPE: SANGIOVESE
GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, MERLOT,
CABERNET
AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS
DARK FRUIT, HERBS, UNDERBRUSH, RED FRUIT, BLACK CHERRY, AROMAS RIPE FRUIT, EUCALYPTUS,
DRIED FLOWERS, ANISE, EAU-DE-VIE, WOOD, CHOCOLATE, FLOWERS, CHERRY, WOOD, EAU-DE-VIE, LEATHER, INCENSE,
PEANUT, LEATHER TOBACCO HERBS WHITE PEPPER BALSAMIC NOTES
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED
WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT
March 2014 31Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways
are permitted until the Monday following the release of
the products. Prices are subject to change without notice.
MARCH 20
WA 90 JR 16
WS 90
P. 19 2018 2016
ITALY FRANCE ITALY FRANCE FRANCE
GINI, LA FROSCÀ 2011, VINCENT PINARD, FLORÈS PRÀ, MONTE GRANDE 2012, BACHELDER, FRANÇOIS COLLARD, CHÂTEAU
SOAVE CLASSICO 2011, SANCERRE SOAVE CLASSICO LES BAS LIARDS 2011, LA TOUR DE BÉRAUD 2011,
$26.85 12132107, 750 ML, $29.45 12097962, 750 ML, $30.00 12132140, 750 ML, SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES
13% ABV 13% ABV 13.5% ABV $34.50 12089567, 750 ML, $16.30 12102629, 750 ML,
NUMBER OF CASES: 125 NUMBER OF CASES: 100 NUMBER OF CASES: 125 12.5% ABV 13.5% ABV
Family winery in the historic Seventeen-hectare domaine is Prà is a player in the Soave NUMBER OF CASES: 164 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 200
Soave Classico zone. La Froscà on calcareous soils that yield revival. Low-yield old vines Globe-trotting Montreal native Small family winery is one of
is sourced entirely from a hill a Sauvignon Blanc of striking grown at elevation make this Thomas Bachelder makes the few to work with Marselan,
of that name. purity and great complexity. an exceptional cuvée. wines in several regions around a cross between Cabernet
PAIRING: GRILLED HONEY-THYME PAIRING: SCALLOP CEVICHE WITH PAIRING: TROUT IN the world, but Burgundy is his Sauvignon and Grenache Noir.
PORK CHOPS FRESH CORIANDER BEURRE BLANC spiritual home. PAIRING: THYME PORK
GRAPE: GARGANEGA GRAPE: SAUVIGNON BLANC GRAPES: GARGANEGA, PAIRING: BRESSE CHICKEN GRAPES: CARIGNAN, MARSELAN,
TREBBIANO DI SOAVE WITH CREAM AND MORELS SYRAH, GRENACHE
GRAPE: CHARDONNAY
AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS
PEAR, HONEY, TEA, PEACH, PEAR, MINERALITY, PEAR, BAKED APPLE, MELON, PEAR, OAK, BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY,
MINERALITY FRESH HERBS SWEET SPICES HAZELNUT THYME, INCENSE, PEONY
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – LIVELY ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – RICH PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – UNOAKED
32 March 2014ANDRÉ DANIEL LUC
VIOLA BONASSO DALLAIRE
These wine advisors were
on the tasting committee
and helped select the
Cellier favourites.
MARCH 20 wine advisor
Saint-Bruno SAQ Sélection
wine advisor
Centropolis SAQ Sélection
wine advisor
SAQ Restauration
IWC WA
88-90 (94-96)
WS 90
P. 18 2018 2021
ITALY ITALY ITALY FRANCE FRANCE
SANTA MARGHERITA, REFOSCO PIONA, CAMPO MASSIMO PRÀ, MORANDINA 2012, PIERRE LURTON, CHÂTEAU MICHEL CHAPOUTIER,
LISON PRAMAGGIORE 2011, 2008, VENETO VALPOLICELLA MARJOSSE 2010, BORDEAUX BILA-HAUT OCCULTUM
VENETO $19.40 12132035, 750 ML, $21.65 12131964, 750 ML, $23.00 10849534, 750 ML, LAPIDEM 2011, CÔTES DU
$19.05 12208538, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV 13.5% ABV 14.5% ABV ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES
14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 125 $25.50 11940698, 750 ML,
NUMBER OF CASES: 200 14.5% ABV
Perfect for the first warm Graziano Prà, known for his An audacious and affordable red NUMBER OF CASES: 500
Indigenous to northern Italy, days of spring, and a Cellier role in the renaissance of the from Bordeaux’s well-known
the Refosco grape has a fruity favourite. Has a scrumptious Soave DOC, brings equal care Pierre Lurton. A great find. An outstanding ambassador for
and thirst-quenching quality quality that will beguile to crafting his biodynamically Rhône wines, Chapoutier also
PAIRING: FILET MIGNON WITH
that produces a delicious, Beaujolais fans. grown reds. PEPPER SAUCE produces this delicious wine in
easy-to-enjoy wine. the Roussillon region to the south.
PAIRING: PIZZA MARGHERITA PAIRING: MAIN-DISH SALAD GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET
PAIRINGS: VEGETARIAN FETA WITH BEEF STRIPS SAUVIGNON, MALBEC, PAIRING: HERB-CRUSTED
GRAPE: CORVINA CABERNET FRANC RACK OF LAMB
PIZZA, ANTIPASTI GRAPES: CORVINA, CORVINONE,
GRAPE: REFOSCO RONDINELLA, OSELETA GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH,
CARIGNAN
AROMAS AROMAS
AROMAS AROMAS RED PEPPER, RED FRUIT, AROMAS MOCHA, DARK FRUIT,
VIOLETS, FRESH FRUIT, RED FRUIT, FRUIT DROPS, FLOWERS, TOMATO, WOOD, ANIMAL NOTES, BALSAMIC NOTES,
RIPE WILD FRUIT FLORAL NOTES YELLOW CHERRY DARK FRUIT, UNDERBRUSH BLACK OLIVE
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – LIGHT BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT
March 2014 33You can also read
