Untapped Potential New funding and growing interest are fueling unprecedented recreational opportunities for this remote, scenic stretch of ...
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SPECIAL REPORT
The
Lower Yellowstone’s
Untapped Potential
New funding and growing interest are fueling
unprecedented recreational opportunities for
this remote, scenic stretch of Montana’s
longest free-flowing river. By Marla Prell
THE GLORIOUS ROCHE JAUNE Blue skies,
abundant sunshine, and stunning scenery
show why the lower Yellowstone River,
pictured here near Rosebud, is such an
attraction. Local leaders are working
to find ways to bring more visitors to the
river—and more tourism dollars to nearby
communities.
PHOTO BY JOHN LAMBING
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SPECIAL REPORT
challenge could be the Yellowstone itself. In Hysham), Powder River Depot
spring the river can swell with massive runoff (near Terry), and Intake Dam
that carries mobile-home-size ice floes able to FAS (near Glendive). Powder
F
wipe out boat ramps, pit latrines, campsites, River Depot in particular is a
and parking areas. “We definitely need new historical gem. Now managed by
or years, southeastern Montana’s lower Yellowstone recreational infrastructure in this region,” the Bureau of Land Manage-
River has been one of the state’s last great recre- says Brad Schmitz, FWP regional supervisor ment, it’s the site of military
in Miles City. “But we need to be mindful of activities before and after the
ational secrets. Stretching 175 miles downstream
appropriately placing it where it doesn’t get Battle of the Little Bighorn, as
from the Bighorn River confluence, Montana’s washed away.” well as stagecoach traffic, steam-
longest free-flowing river glides past scenic limestone bluffs, boat landings, and frontier trade
Rapid report (see sidebar, page 29).
towering cottonwoods, rugged badlands, and vast stretches Both the river’s vast recreational potential and Another committee recom-
of prairie little changed from when Captain William Clark and possible hazards were on the minds of com- mendation: Create and promote
mittee members when they met throughout hiking, biking, and water-based
his men traveled here more than two centuries ago. The area’s much of 2021. Representing agricultural, trails for their health benefits
relatively few kayakers and canoeists often see more deer, recreational, conservation, and economic in- and potential to boost local
HOOKED ON FISHING Anglers use ocean surf-casting rods and large treble hooks to land prehistoric
mink, otters, and beavers than other floaters. Dozens of bird terests, the 12-member group was sponsored
paddlefish below Intake, one of several diversion dams on the lower Yellowstone. The river also
economies. The report specifically calls for
by Governor Greg Gianforte and convened by offers top-notch angling for smallmouth bass, sauger, northern pike, walleye, and channel catfish. purchasing, from willing landowners, four
species use the riparian habitats, including chattering belted FWP to help the department determine the parcels along the stretches with limited river
kingfishers that keep paddlers company as bald eagles and most effective way to spend the funding access for new public access sites. “It would
authorized during the last legislative session. important to maintain continuity with the report, “Recommendations for Improving be a dream come true just to get those four
ospreys soar overhead. Several committee members came from the previous lower Yellowstone coalition so that Public Access, Habitat Conservation, and properties,” says Angie Grove, former chair
Surrounding lands beckon visitors with to see more focus on this other part of Mon- Lower Yellowstone River Coalition, an earlier recommendations for spending the $4 mil- Management of the Lower Yellowstone of the Montana State Parks and Recreation
Native American cultural sites, battlefields tana and all we have to offer,” says Mandy group of regional community leaders and lion and managing the recreation corridor River Corridor.” FWP has the final say on Board and current chair of the Lower
from the Indian Wars, and world-renowned Hoffman of Glendive, who manages a river recreation advocates who promoted the represented local concerns and aspirations. considering, accepting, and carrying out any Yellowstone committee.
paleontology digs. And the fishing! Catch floating guide business with her husband river’s economic potential. “I didn’t want our department to just go out of the recommendations, and that process Schmitz agrees, noting that FWP has
rates for smallmouth bass, sauger, northern Justin, a member of the Lower Yellowstone The new committee’s main task was to and buy a few river access sites and call it a will be subject to public review. been trying for two decades to increase ac-
pike, walleye, shovelnose sturgeon, and River Corridor Advisory Committee. Adds develop a way for FWP to evaluate opportu- day,” he says. “I wanted to see the commit- One recommendation was to manage the cess on the lower Yellowstone. “We’ve never
channel catfish are so good that some Joel Krautter of Sidney, an attorney, former nities to acquire additional public river ac- tee’s vision for their region of Montana.” entire lower Yellowstone as a single entity had all these pieces line up before,” he says.
anglers swear an oath of silence. legislator, and committee member, “Western cess. Members were also asked to identify FWP officials and committee members while highlighting the unique amenities and “I think we’re on a wave, so we’d better ride
Now the lid has been lifted on the river Montana has made investments into public where the state could invest in protecting agree that the most pressing recreational it as long as possible.”
19th-century French trappers named Roche access and state parks and trails, but eastern critical wildlife habitats while still enhanc- needs are access sites in key areas along the Worsech reviewed the report in Novem-
Jaune (“Yellow Rock,” for its abundant Montana’s natural beauty and opportunities ing water access and recreation. river (see map, pages 26-27). Though the ber 2021, and just a week later authorized
chalky bluffs). And the spotlight isn’t only on have been overlooked. That’s changing now.” FWP director Hank Worsech says it was lower Yellowstone currently contains more We’ve never had all these FWP staff to look into purchasing recom-
what the river and surrounding lands offer Yet even with the than a dozen access areas—most of them at pieces line up before. mended access sites.
today, but also the additional recreation— infusion of money FWP fishing access sites (FAS)—several
cycling and hiking trails, interpretive routes, and energy, adding stretches contain access gaps of 19 to 41
I think we’re on a wave, Local interests
improved campsites, and additional river outdoor recreation miles. That means most canoeists and so we’d better ride it as Committee members spent much of their
access—they could provide in the future. amenities may be as kayakers, who can paddle only 10 to 15 miles time discussing the potential for recreation
long as possible.
The 2021 Montana Legislature kicked challenging as ca- in a day, can’t use those portions of the river. to boost and diversify the region’s agricul-
things off by approving an initial $4 million noeing the big river Committee members visited or evalu- ture-based economy. Members heard from
investment by FWP into the lower Yellow- during its frequent ated 20 sites along the corridor, talking with Christine Whitlatch, former director of the
stone River corridor to bolster the river’s windy spells. Ironi- landowners and community leaders. They history of its three separate zones: the Glendive Chamber of Commerce, who a
wildlife habitat and water access. Then, this cally, the biggest TOP TO BOTTOM: JANIE OSBORNE; NATHAN COOPER identified two dozen existing or potential Bighorn River confluence to Miles City, Miles year earlier led the Lower Yellowstone River
past year, a new regional citizen committee opportunities for public access and habitat City to Glendive, and Glendive to the North Coalition. “There’s a huge level of excite-
provided FWP with carefully considered ICE BULLDOZERS
conservation. They also recommended in- Dakota border near Sidney. To protect and ment here over finally sharing the beauty of
guidance and recommendations. A challenge for any stalling river safety warnings; increasing ac- interpret historical sites, the report suggests Montana’s prairie and expanding a vision of
Local businesses and supporters are effort to add boat cessibility for people with disabilities; and developing a Lower Yellowstone River State the state that goes beyond just ski hills and
thrilled with the new attention. “It’s so great ramps and other posting signs and kiosks with historical, Park containing anchor destinations in each mountains,” Whitlatch says.
amenities along the of the three zones. Modeled after the multi- Committee member Brenda Maas, mar-
agricultural, tribal, cultural, geological, and
lower Yellowstone is
Marla Prell is the FWP regional the river’s destructive environmental information. ple-unit Flathead Lake State Park in western keting director for Visit Southeast Montana,
Communication and Education Program power during winter Members developed criteria to rank Montana, the new park could have potential
manager in Miles City. and spring. water access sites and produced a 20-page units at Myers Bridge/Howrey Island (near Continued on page 28.
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SPECIAL REPORT
Culbertson
Bainville
Missouri Ri
ver
Confluence of
PHOTO CREDITS, CLOCKWISE the Yellowstone
FROM BOTTOM LEFT: JOHN WARNER; and Missouri rivers
NATHAN COOPER; JOHN LAMBING;
JEREMIE HOLLMAN; JEREMIE HOLLMAN;
MONTANA FWP; MONTANA HISTORICAL Fairview
SOCIETY; USGS; RODNEY SCHLECHT Richland Park
Montana Moss Agate Paddlefish Kayaking Evelyn Cameron Calypso Bridge Bald Eagles Boat Ramp
Diamond
Willow FAS
Sidney
Bridge FAS Sidney
LOWER YELLOWSTONE RIVER Gartside
Reservoir FAS
Existing and potential recreation amenities in Seven
Sisters FAS
one of Montana’s last best places
Elk
Island FAS
NO RT H DA KO TA
ss le
p
MO NT AN A
ce i
ga
ac 19-m
HERE AND NOW Possible future Savage
state park unit
The lower Yellowstone River is one of the Treasure State’s best-kept secrets. The unimpounded warmwater river offers vast stretches
Terry Badlands of solitude for canoeists and kayakers; great fishing for bass, sauger, northern pike, paddlefish, and other species; gravel bars Intake Dam
FAS
containing stunning Montana moss agates; and scenery little changed from when Captain William Clark traveled these waters. Stipek
FAS
The surrounding region includes vast prairies, historic battlefields, Native American cultural sites, and world-renowned
Glendive
paleontology digs, as well as pronghorn, mule and white-tailed deer, wild turkeys, sharp-tailed grouse, raptors, Community Ramp
Black
songbirds, and other wildlife on vast public lands open for wildlife watching and hunting.
ap
Bridge FAS Glendive
ssg
e
DREAMING BIG ea
cc
Yellowstone River advocates and local boosters envision a wide range of possible infrastructure and il Makoshika
1-m State Park Frontier
recreational improvements to make the waterway even more attractive to visitors. Foremost are Big Sky 3 Gateway
Terry Badlands Backcountry Museum
river access sites at key gaps between existing sites (see red zones in map below and at right). Wilderness Byway
Study Area Fallon
In addition, local and regional coalitions and committees have identified these possible Bridge FAS
Confluence of Calypso
enhancements: improving boat ramps, roads, camping opportunities, and water the Yellowstone
Bridge
supplies at several existing access sites; establishing portage trails around and Powder rivers
Smallmouth Bass Terry Fallon
diversion dams; building hiking and cycling trails with interpretive signs Powder River
Depot
and information kiosks; and even developing visitor centers. Possible future
state park unit Bonfield
FAS
Possible future Kinsey
iver
state park unit Confluence of the Yellowstone Bridge FAS Kinsey
Powder R
and Tongue rivers Roche
Jaune FAS
ess gap
36-mile access gap 41-mile acc
Confluence of the Amelia
Yellowstone and Island FAS Pirogue Island
Bighorn rivers Myers State Park
Bridge FAS Rosebud
Rosebud East FAS
West FAS Far West Miles City
Hysham FAS
Custer Forsyth Rosebud
Captain Hathaway
Makoshika State Park Clark FAS Manuel
Lisa FAS
r
ve
Ri
ue FWP Fishing Access Site
Lake Elmo ng
State Park
Shephard To (with boat ramp)
Boat ramp managed by
ver
another agency or entity
Huntley
n Ri
Montana state park Medicine Rocks
0 5 10 State Park
Billings
hor
Prehistoric attractions
MILES
Carter
Big
ILLUSTRATED MAP BY LUKE DURAN/MONTANA OUTDOORS CountyMONTANA OUTDOORS | MARCH–APRIL 2022 | 27
Pictograph Cave Colstrip Museum
State Park
SPECIAL REPORT
Powder River Depot
Located near the confluence of the Yellowstone
and Powder rivers, the historic Powder River
Depot could someday be part of a Montana
state park. Lower Yellowstone advisory com-
mittee members envision it as one of a three-
unit heritage state park with camping facilities,
trails, and an interpretive center.
It’s an ideal place for cultural and historical
interpretation. The scenic area was the site of
Native American encampments for centuries,
military activities during the Sioux War of
1866-67, fur trapper trade, and pioneer move-
ment. A gravel road off West Old Highway 10
leads to the site, southwest of Terry, where an
ornate iron fence with silhouettes of buffalo
hunters surrounds graves from the late 1800s.
Interpretive signs share tales of frontier people
who traveled these lands and waters, including
Captain William Clark, fur traders, missionaries,
cattlemen, and railroaders.
Brigadier General George Crook and Gen-
eral Alfred Terry established military camps
here. Visible across the river is Sheridan Butte,
used by soldiers for signaling. It is named for
LAST LONELY PLACE The lower Yellowstone, shown here flowing through badlands near Fallon, provides floaters, anglers, and others with solitude General Philip Henry Sheridan, who went on to
that’s becoming increasingly rare in Montana. A major challenge for those boosting the river’s recreational potential is finding ways to also preserve become general in chief of the U.S. Army. Sheri-
what makes the river and surrounding region so pleasurable today.
dan is said to have climbed the butte to watch
for the arrival of his subordinate, Lieutenant
Colonel George Armstrong Custer. Not long
Continued from page 25. ing challenges to making the lower Yellow- ers, the time it takes for the state to complete over time leverage additional after, Custer met his fate at the Little Bighorn.
stone anything like a Madison River or an acquisition can be too long for landown- funds to stretch the dollars we do In addition to all that history, vast wildlife-
says more boat ramps, especially, are key upper Yellowstone River tourist magnet. ers receiving other offers. “We’ve lost a half- have,” he says. rich state and federal lands surrounding the
to the region’s recreation-based economic Increased visitation may mean more money dozen opportunities over the years because Grove says she’s thrilled that site could expand a new state park’s recre-
growth. “The reason the lower Yellowstone is streaming into the region, but it also means of those delays,” Schmitz says. FWP is moving quickly to acquire ational offerings. As could the Terry Badlands
not more of a destination is directly related to more people, too. “Members want to share That’s another reason the FWP regional the four properties, but she’s not Wilderness Study Area’s extensive trails and
the inability of visitors to access the river,” she their region with others, but they still want supervisor is so excited about these new afraid to dream bigger. Like Tem- scenic outlooks, and the Evelyn Cameron
says. “The time is right for this project—the the solitude and space they treasure,” Grove possibilities: “We can’t let them slip by, ple, she wants to help attract Heritage Center in nearby Terry, which high-
new funding, the growing interest in outdoor says. “We talked a lot about maintaining because they might not come back for additional funding for more of the lights the celebrated frontier photographer. n
A sandy beach near Miles City
recreation created by the pandemic. Resi- that balance.” another 25 years.” committee’s recommendations,
dents and visitors want to be outdoors and Jamie Hould, FWP regional Fishing such as establishing a heritage
have more access to public lands and waters.” Access Site Program manager in Miles City, People take to the river says he and other chapter members experi- state park. Grove also anticipates more land-
Stewardship, too, is part of the economic echoes that desire. “I hope that, at the end Like so many other outdoor recreation ence the burgeoning number of floaters and owners coming forward, which could open
vision. “Data and economic research show of this process of creating more water destinations, the lower Yellowstone saw a anglers firsthand. “We’re out on the river new possibilities for public access. “That’s one
us that places that care for their public lands access, a person who wanted to get lost on flood of new visitors during the past two TOP TO BOTTOM: JOHN LAMBING; ABC-FOX MONTANA; MONTANA FWP all the time and see not only the growing of the many advantages of a local advisory
and waters and invest in their recreation in- the river still could.” summers. “We were not prepared for the interest but the need for additional access— committee—neighbors talking to neighbors,”
frastructure have the chance to achieve Another challenge is acquiring and main- amount of interest we received about float- especially for families,” he says. she says.
greater prosperity than those that do not,” taining access to one of the state’s most ing the river,” float guide business co-owner FWP deputy director Dustin Temple is Inspired by the momentum, Schmitz
Lance Kalfell, committee member, rancher, powerful rivers. During some winters, Mandy Hoffman says. “The Travel Channel well aware of the access deficiences. He has hopes that new access sites will engender
and chair of the Prairie Country Economic sheets of ice over 10 feet tall flow down the called, bloggers called.” family in the Glendive area, enjoys fishing the even more legislative support. “If we can
Development Council wrote in a summer Yellowstone, tearing out concrete boat According to Schmitz, FWP boat ramps in lower Yellowstone, and was instrumental in show legislators that we’re accomplishing
2021 Billings Gazette opinion piece. ramps, fences, and pit toilets like bulldozers. the region received more use in 2021 than helping FWP get legislative authorization for what they asked us to do, that here’s an access
Then there’s the fact that when an ideal ever before. “We sense an increase of anglers using department funds to boost access and site or two on the ground with more coming,
Major challenges public access spot is identified—one less and boaters on the horizon, and we need the wildlife habitat. Temple stresses that building then that could inspire even greater interest,”
Despite their excitement over the region’s prone to flood damage and between two infrastructure in place to handle it,” he says. boat ramps and other amenities won’t he says. “Because there’s sure a desire from Angie Grove, chair of the Lower Yellowstone River Advi-
potential recreational and economic growth, existing access sites—the landowner may Duncan Bartholomew, president of the happen overnight, “but we’re hoping to put the public, the committee, the governor, and sory Committee (pink coat), discusses the Powder River
committee members also recognized sober- not want to sell. And even with willing sell- Miles City chapter of Walleyes Unlimited, pieces on the ground in the coming year, and our director to do a lot more out here.” Depot’s rich history with other committee members.
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