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UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
EAI 01 ISSUE 07
                                                                                  ` 100

                                                                         Market Focus

                                                                        UK, as an
                                                                   apparel market
      BraND case stuDY
        Zara: success
        secret decoded

      LuXurY
      India emerging as a luxury market
      AppArel eXpOrT prOMOTION COUNCIl MAGAZINe   | October 2018

Apparel_Oct.indd 1                                                                 10/1/2018 6:03:24 PM
UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
Apparel_Oct.indd 2   10/1/2018 6:03:26 PM
UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
AppArel / Chairman’s Message

                          Dear Friends,

                          T
                                       he Indian apparel industry, at
                                       the close of the first half of
                                       this financial year, finds itself at
                                       a rather unenviable position of
                          being one of the few sectors, which has not
                          been able to come out of the red, in terms of
                          export performance. The favorable rupee has
                          improved exports in rupee terms, but exports
                          in dollar terms may need a few more months to
                          recover. However the silver lining is the positive
                          performance in the major markets like US and
                          EU. With a good demand position in major
                          markets, the imminent peak season can finally
                          take the exports northwards.
                              The industry is eagerly awaiting the new
                          RoSL rates that can be a game changer in this
                          market, where the only constraint before the
                          Indian exporter is the cost competitiveness.
                          AEPC submitted its data and representation
                          for Determination of All Industry Rate of            from the local factories also joined the
                          Drawback 2018-19 for readymade garments for          campaign . The minister urged for a more
                          reimbursement of actual incidence of custom          sustained effort to keep the clusters clean by
                          duties suffered on imported inputs. AEPC also        recycling waste through innovative usage.
                          submitted representation to PMO office to                At the cluster level, AEPC is creating
                          review and consider all embedded taxes. The          awareness on Swachhata in apparel factories and
                          new rates are expected by next month.                identifying dirty clusters drive with the support
                              Campaign to create awareness on                  of the local bodies / municipal corporations.
                          Swachhata in apparel sector Apparel Export               India and Sri Lanka representative
                          Promotion Council (AEPC) and its members             discussion to increase trade AEPC hosted
                          across the various apparel clusters observed         B2B meeting between representatives of
                          the “Swachhata Hi Seva” campaign. The                India and Sri Lanka on September 26, 2018
                          campaign was launched on September 15,               at Apparel House, Gurugram. The discussions
                          2018 with Union Minister of Textiles, Smriti         were aimed at increasing the trade between the
                          Zubin Irani joining the okhla industry in            two countries. Industry representatives from
                          cleaning the garbage around Okhla apparel            both sides agreed that it is time to look the
                          cluster. The entire north India’s apparel            beyond tariff issues and explore the possibility
                          associations like GEA, OGTC, AEMA,                   of working together as a partner on future
                          NAEC, DEA, along with AEPC officials,                collaborations for product and supply chain
                          students & faculties of ATDC and workers             development. n

                                                                                                    HKL Magu, Chairman, AEPC

                                                                      APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE    | October 2018 / 1

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UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
C O N T E N T S

                                                                                                 EAI 01 ISSUE 07
                                                                                         ` 100

                                                                                MARKET FOCUS

                                                                               UK, as an
                                                                          apparel market
             BRAND CASE STUDY
              Zara: Success
              secret decoded
                                                                                                                   04 | The Broadcast
                                                                                                                       India’s Ready-Made Garment (RMG)Export Update for FY
                                                                                                                       (April-August) 2018-19

             LUXURY                                                                                                05 | The Broadcast
             India emerging as a luxury market                                                                         India’s Textile & Ready Made Garment (RMG) Update for
             APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE   | October 2018                                                Index for Industrial Production (IIP) for FY (April-July) 2018-19

                                                                                                                   06 | aepC evenTs
                                                                                                                       AEPC holds B2B interactions between India and Sri Lanka.

                                                                                                                   08 | LuXury
                                                                                                                       India to emerge a strong market for luxury brands
          CHAIRMAN AEPC
          Mr. HKL Magu                                                                                             10| Brand reTaiL
                                                                                                                       • Indian brands shift focus to material quality strategy
          CHAIRMAN EP
                                                                                                                       • Gap Q2 sales up seven per cent
          Mr. Sudhir Sekhri
                                                                                                                       • Urban Outfitters Q1 sales up ten per cent

          ADVISOR AEPC                                                                                             11| Brand reTaiL
          Mrs. Chandrima Chatterjee                                                                                    • Google to enter e - com space in India
                                                                                                                       • Primark to generate 5.5 per cent more sales than last
          PUBLISHER                                                                                                      year
          Apparel Export Promotion Council                                                                             • Inditex to sell online by 2020

                                                                                                                   12 | Case sTudy
                                                                                                                       Zara: Success secret decoded

                                                                                                                   16 | reTaiL
                                                                                                                       Gap Inc faces challenging times ahead

                                                                                                                   18 | Business
                                                                                                                       • Indian apparel market to reach $155 billion by 2022
                                                                                                                       • India likely to overtake China in textiles business

          Editor-in Chief & Publisher & CEO -                                                                      19| Business
                                                                                                                       • India to change the rules of origin clauses in FTAs
          Sanjay Chawla
                                                                                                                       • Recovery in sight for Indian textile industry
          Director - Salil Chawla                                                                                      • India: Rising yarn prices worry hosiery makers
          Managing Editor - Sujata Dutta Sachdeva
          VP-Corporate Communications                                                                              20 | Cover sTory
          Shraboni Mukherjee                                                                                           market focus: UK to remain a lucrative market for Indian
          Assistant General Manager - Saqib Meer                                                                       apparels against all odds
          Editorial - Narayan Subramaniam
                                                                                                                   25 | eXporTs
          Editorial Asst. - Ranjit Kaur                                                                                • US-China trade war benefits India exports
          Correspondent - Ajay Kumar Goswami,                                                                          • Falling rupee boosts India’s exports sector
          Prerna Sharma
          Graphic Designer - Sanjeev D. Sonavane                                                                   26 | eXporTs
          Production & Admn. - Dhansukh Rathod,                                                                        • Tirupur knitwear exports decline by 13%
          Dinesh Poojary                                                                                               • India to double exports by 2025

          Mumbai Office: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4,
                                                                                                                   27 | eXporTs
                                                                                                                       • India’s apparel exports to grow by 1-2 % y-o-y for FY19
          Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W),                                                                  • Bangladesh, Sri Lanka to jointly make eco-friendly jute
          Mumbai - 400 062. Ph: 022 2875 5181                                                                            apparel
          e-mail: dfuif@yahoo.co.in / dfu@rediffmail.com                                                               • Kerala’s weavers need six months to repair looms

          Dehli Office: Salil Chawla, Business & Mktg:                                                              28 | Business
          New Delhi - 110017, Mobile: +9193503 18639/                                                                  Indian garment manufacturers need to speed up to grab
          95601 79633 e-mail: dfudelhi@yahoo.co.in                                                                     global business

          Printing Press: VIBA Press Pvt. Ltd. C-66/3,                                                             30 | Trade TreaTies
          Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-II                                                                              NAFTA 2.0 to change US apparel sourcing norms
          New Delhi-110020
          e-mail: info.vibappl@gmail.com                                                                           32 | Trade TreaTies
                                                                                                                       • India and Singapore review FTA
                                                                                                                       • US urge India to rethink trade barriers and tariffs
                                                                                                                       • Trump threatens to withdraw from the WTO

          2 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

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UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
33 | Trade Treaties
                                          • Indian trade barrier to hurt Bangladesh exports
                                          • US-China trade war heats up with more tariffs on
                                            Chinese goods
                                          • India proposes stricter rules to prevent Chinese
                                            goods flooding the country

                                    34 | Trade War
                                          US-China tariff war sees newer sourcing destinations
                                          emerging strong

                                    36 | Imports
                                          • India’s apparel exports to Italy still minimal
                                          • UAE’s apparel imports from India fall by 59 per
                                            cent
                                          • Trouser imports of EU increase by 7%

                                    37 | Imports
                                          • US jeans imports increase in H1
                                          • India imports 56% more RMG from Bangladesh
                                            during July-November 2017

                                    38 | AEPC events
                                          Good response for the Indian Pavilion at ATSC

                                    40 | Insight
                                          Fashion adopting a functional approach

                                    43 | Trends
                                          • Companies prefer cotton over synthetic apparels
                                          • Denim back in fashion in the US
                                          • Nearly 24 per of US apparel sales generated by
                                            Athleisure

                                    44 | Trends
                                          Demand for temperature sensitive clothing on the
                                          rise

                                    46 | Infrastructure
                                          • Manipur upgrades three apparel making centres
                                            in Imphal
                                          • Kay Ventures to convert Karur into a global
                                            knitwear center

                                    47 | Infrastructure
                                          • YEIDA to set up textile park to boost industry
                                            growth
                                          • Arvind to outsource textile production in the next
                                            five years
                                          • UP launches ODOP scheme in Lucknow

                                    48 | Tech Trends
                                          Apparel Technology: New fabric handling
                                          technologies a time saver

                                    50 | AEPC events
                                          AEPC to launched Swachhata Hi Seva Campaign

                                    52 | sUsTainaBiLiTy
                                          Need for Fast Fashion retailers to tighten their eco
                                          goals

                                    54 |	certifications
                                          Sustainable materials, certifications driving apparel
                                          industry

                                    56 | events
                                          • India to participate in Footwear and Leather
                                            Show in Australia
                                          • IAF to hold World Fashion Convention in
                                            Netherlands this October
                                          • India to partner Germany at Ambiente 2019 Fair
                                            in Frankfurt

                                    57 | aepc event calendar
                                          CALENDAR OF EVENTS - 2018

                                    58 | NOTIFICATIONS
                                    59 | GST Update

                     APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE         | October 2018 / 3

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UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
AppArel / the broadcast

                                                                         India’s Ready-Made
                                                                          Garment (RMG)
                                                                          Export Update for
                                                                          FY (April-August)
                                                                               2018-19
                                                                             India’s RMG Exports

                                                                             RMG exports were to the tune of USD 1292.18
                                                                             million in August 2018 with the decline of -3.35
                                                                             per cent against the corresponding month of August
                                                                             2017, which was USD 1336.95 million

                                                                             In rupee term export for the Month of August 2018
                                                                             was ` 8986.67 cr. as against ` 8552.24 Cr. in
                                                                             August 2017 with the growth of 5.08 per cent.

                                                                             India’s RMG export to World in the April-August
                                                                             of 2018-19 was to the tune of USD 6612.85 mn.
                                                                             which has decreased by -12.07 per cent compared
                                                                             to the same period of previous financial year. During
                                                                             April-August 2017-18, India’s apparel exports were
                                                                             to the tune of USD 7520.3 mn.

                                                           India’s RMG Export to World
                                                                                                         MoM Growth of
                                           FY 2017-18                      FY 2018-19
                        Month                                                                        2018-19 over 2017-18 (%)
                                     	In INR Crore	In US$ Million	In INR Crore	In US$ Million	INR	US$
                         April        11272.24        1747.44         8859.67         1349.81              -21.4          -22.76
                         May          10342.55        1605.37         9040.63         1338.57             -12.59          -16.62
                         June          9979.57        1548.59         9202.63         1357.46              -7.79          -12.34
                          July         8262.94        1281.95         8757.23         1274.83               5.98            -0.56
                        August         8552.24        1336.95         8986.67         1292.18               5.08            -3.35
                     	April-August    48409.54         7520.3       44846.83         6612.85               -7.36          -12.07
                                                                                                 Source: DGCI&S, Kolkata, 2018

                     4 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

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UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
AppArel / the broadcast

                              India’s Textile
                              & Ready Made
                             Garment (RMG)
                             Update for Index
                               for Industrial
                             Production (IIP)
                                     for
                              FY (April-July)
                                  2018-19
                                                   INDEX OF INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTION
                     		                   Manufacture of   MoM Growth Rate       Manufacture of            MoM Growth
                     		                      textiles          (In %)            wearing apparel            Rate (In %)
                          Month          2017-18 2018-19 2018-19/2017-18 2017-18 2018-19 2018-19/2017-18
                     	April               116      114.2           -1.6          155.5      134.6             -13.4
                           May            116.7    116.1           -0.5          156.8      136.8             -12.8
                           June           116.4    115.5           -0.8          145.2      151.6              4.4
                            July          116.4    119.8           2.9           134.2      147.3              9.8
                     	Total April-July    116.4    117.9           1.3           147.9      143.8              -2.8
                                                                                                     Source: CSO, 2018
                     Summary
                     • Manufacturing of Textiles has shown a growth of 2.9% in July, 2018 and growth of 1.3% for
                       the period of April-July, 2018-19
                     • Manufacturing of Wearing apparel has shown a growth of 9.8% in July, 2018 and decline
                       of -2.8% for the period of April-July, 2018-19

                                                               APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE   | October 2018 / 5

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UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
AppArel / AEPC events

                          AEPC holds B2B interactions
                          between India and Sri Lanka.

                                                                                      A group photograph of Sri Lankan delegation with representatives from India

                     A
                               EPC recently held B2B interactions
                               between India and Sri Lanka that
                               were aimed at increasing trade
                     relations between the two countries.
                     Representatives from both sides agreed that
                     it is time to look the beyond tariff issues and
                     explore the possibility of working together
                     as a partners. India proposed that Sri Lanka
                     should share its knowledge on microfiber
                     fabrics and products, technology, etc while                                        India - Sri Lanka B2B meeting at Apparel House, Gurgaon

                     India should provide knowledge on value           Commerce, New Delhi; HKL Magu, Chairman, AEPC;
                     added products, designing and products            Sudhir Sekhri, Chairman-EP, AEPC; Gautam Nair, EC
                     development.                                      Member, AEPC and representatives from Sri Lanka Apparel,
                          The meeting commenced with the               Brandix Apparel Ltd, Sri Lanka; MAS Brands India Pvt Ltd,
                     opening remarks from Aditi Das Rout,              Sri Lanka; Hirdaramani, Sri Lanka; Timex Garments, Sri
                     Trade Advisor,Ministry of Textiles in             Lanka; Page Industries, Sri Lanka; CMAI, Vardhman Textiles,
                     presence of AG NimalKarunatilake, Actg.           CITI, Arvind Ltd., and TEXPROCIL
                     Addl. Director General, Department of                 The discussions aimed to increase the trade between the
                     Commerce, Sri Lanka. It was attended              two countries. The meeting ended on very positive note.
                     by,       UpekkhaSamaratunga,          Minister   HKL Magu, Chairman, AEPC thanked the delegation from
                     (Commercial), Sri Lanka High Commission;          Sri Lanka and proposed for future collaboration and B2B
                     SB Nanda, Under Secretary, Ministry of            meetings with Sri Lanka. n

                     6 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

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UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
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UK, as an apparel market - Market Focus
AppArel / Luxury

                      India to emerge a strong
                      market for luxury brands
                      I
                               ndian luxury market needs to think in        €150 and wines and spirits – more than €100 as true luxury. The
                               terms of size and growth, at least 10        luxury market in India is approximately $12 billion-$15 billion
                               years ahead of its time. Luxury brand        or 1.5 per cent of the world market. China, on the other hand,
                               Louis Vuitton opened its first store         makes up 40 per cent of the world luxe market.
                      in China in 1992 but could offer reasonable               One of the biggest constraints for Indian luxury market
                      sizes only 20 years later. The brand opened its       is talent. An important part of the experience is the in-store
                      first store in India in 2003 and is still few years   staff. There are simply not enough trained people available.
                      behind when it could offer the right sizes.           Even the pool available is more deferential than an informed
                      Standardising luxury by considering optimum           seller of luxury.
                      price for experiential and personal luxury
                      goods, BCG classifies handbags above €1,000,          Change in perspectives
                      shoes above €300, restaurants spend of above             Popular perception that luxury consumers are old, live in

                      8 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct.indd 10                                                                                                                           10/1/2018 6:03:36 PM
AppArel / Luxury
                                                         metros and predominantly female needs to
                                                         change. Although dealerships for luxury car
                                                         showrooms exists in cities like Jalgaon and
                                                         Coimbatore, but the consumers in most cities
                                                         do not find the offer in India compelling and
                                                         end up purchasing goods either in Singapore
                                                         or London, where they get a better range,
                                                         service standards and retail environment.
                                                             The role of women as prospective buyers
                                                         in both luxury and premium categories is
                                                         changing. With the percentage of women
                                                         getting education rising higher than boys
                                                         increasing since 2015, the future consumer-
                                                         base for luxury and premium goods is likely
                                                         to be female-centric. In China, this segment
                                                         of young working women is amongst the
                                                         most important demography in luxury.

                                                         The India advantage
                                                             The Chinese luxury market is much bigger
                                                         than the size of Indian luxury market and is
                                                         growing at a healthy clip. The spread in China
                                                         is much broader – 50 per cent of luxury
                                                         consumers are beyond the Top-15 cities. India
                                                         also being a big country, has a potential of
                                                         vast spread beyond Tier I cities.
                                                             Most global luxury brands worldwide
                                                         started as craft brands a century or more,
                                                         ago. Bulgari, for example, was once a single
                                                         jewellery store and Burberry an outdoor
                                                         wear manufacturer; today these are global
                                                         iconic brands across categories. India also has
                                                         potential to build few luxury brands in future
                                                         due to its ideal business climate. High end
                                                         apparel or jewellery, etc are some categories
                                                         where true Indian luxury brands may emerge.
                                                         Some brands in India have already started
                                                         on that journey and are likely to attain global
                                                         reach and appeal shortly.
                                                             Historically, luxury brands invest a
                                                         lot in print for brand building. In France,
                                                         LVMH is the biggest print advertiser. In
                                                         contrast, a lot of brand building in China
                                                         happens online. India is likely to adopt the
                                                         mid-approach by focusing less on TV as
                                                         it finds less relevance in luxury owing to
                                                         increased fragmentation and also being a
                                                         low attention medium. n

                                         APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE   | October 2018 / 9

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AppArel / Brand Retail

                       Indian brands shift focus to material quality strategy

                      I
                         n a bid to counter competition from
                         Ikea, domestic players have shifted their
                         focus from price point strategy to material
                       quality strategy. Some furniture makers are
                       manufacturing a roll-pack mattress that can
                       easily fit into the size of a TV box bringing the
                       shipping cost down by 70 per cent. They hope
                       to ship more products at a low cost across India
                       and the waiting period is less than three days.
                          One startup has even opened an experiential

                                                                              center, where customers can rest for 30 minutes before buying
                                                                              the product. Another startup visits customers at their homes. This
                                                                              helps a brand understand customer expectations and customize
                                                                              their products accordingly. n

                            Gap Q2 sales up                                   Urban Outfitters Q1 sales
                            seven per cent                                    up ten per cent

                                                                              T
                                                                                   he first quarter sales of Urban Outfitters rose by 10 per cent. This
                                                                                   growth was spurred by higher consumer spending, despite
                                                                                   a longer than normal winter, as well as easier comparisons
                                                                              versus the same period last year. The company expects to
                                                                              generate substantial growth in the revenue and earning metrics
                                                                              in the second quarter. Its sales are expected to grow by 12.2 per
                                                                              cent and EPS by a whopping 75 per cent.
                                                                                 The company’s total markdown rate during the first quarter
                                                                              was the lowest than that of any quarter in the last ten years. This

                            T
                                 he Q2 sales of Gap Group have increased      resulted in higher average unit retail, and eventually positive store
                                 by 7.5 per cent. Its US sales rose by 9.3    comps. A better assortment, higher consumer spending, and
                                 per cent. However, the group’s growth        disciplined inventory
                            has slowed since Q1 due to its limited range.     control also helped
                            It discourages people from visiting and           the company to
                            purchasing. It also leads to the company          offer lesser discounts.
                            resorting to continuous discounting to               Urban       Outfitters
                            stimulate sales. The brand needs to establish     opened         its    first
                            a clearer identity and a sense of purpose like    freestanding        store
                            other apparel brand.                              in Paris in February
                               The total sales of its Old Navy brand, aided   and its first franchise
                            by strong consumer economy, increaqsed            store in the outskirts
                            by 13.7 per cent. The division continues to       of Tel Aviv in April. The
                            produce nice fashion edits at good price          company plans to
                            points. It is also adding plus sizes to the       open two additional
                            range. Another brand Banana Republic also         stores in Europe
                            reported positive results n                       and facilitate the
                                                                              opening of several additional franchised stores in Israel. n

                       10 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct_shortstories.indd 1                                                                                                                           10/1/2018 7:25:28 PM
AppArel / Brand Retail

                       Google to enter e - com space in India
                      G
                               oogle is planning                                              further ripen up for acquisitions. The big three,
                               to enter the                                                   Google, Amazon and Walmart-backed
                               e-commerce                                                     Flipkart, flush with big money and investor
                       space in India. This                                                   optimism, will aim to buy out smaller players to
                       could pressurise the                                                   beef up their e-commerce war chest in India.
                       existing players through                                                  Start-ups in specialised niche domains
                       its higher customer acquisition costs and the latest technologies.     such as medicines, cosmetics, food, furniture,
                       Existing players, who do not pay attention to aspects like             fashion will continue to grow, acquire scale
                       recommendation engines and the search experience, will be              and ultimately get picked up by the big three.
                       forced to optimise on these aspects.                                   However, there wouldn’t be much space for
                          Though Google has an edge in terms of technology platforms,         horizontal e-commerce players operating
                       the existing e-commerce giants boast of a strong supply chain          in multiple products and service categories;
                       and customer support. For consumers, the party will continue           enabling strong vertical players to emerge in
                       with lots of deals, discounts and cashbacks. The market will           niche categories. n

                       Primark to generate 5.5 per                                               Inditex to sell
                       cent more sales than last year                                            online by 2020

                                                                                                 S
                                                                                                      pain’s Inditex SA plans to sell its Zara and
                                                                                                      other brands online within the next two
                                                                                                      years. The retailer currently has stores in
                                                                                                 96 countries and e-commerce in about half of
                                                                                                 those. It has been warned by Morgan Stanley
                                                                                                 analysts regarding the drop in its rankings
                                                                                                 from great to good; Credit Suisse too has

                      P
                             rimark, in its recent trading update, has stated that it would
                             generate 5.5 per cent more sales than last year at constant
                             currency of 6 per cent at actual exchange rates). But, this
                       will be offset by a 2 per cent decline in like-for-likes (LFL).
                          The company stated that its full year sales in the UK are
                       expected to be 6 per cent higher than the last year. Its share            criticised its growing shift to online sales. The
                       of clothing market has also increased significantly. The brand’s          company’s shares too have dropped by 14
                       stores in Spain, Portugal and Italy have delivered strong sales           percent this year. E-commerce is the source
                       growth in the year. Its LFL sales have decreased due to a decline         of 10 percent of its sales, having grown more
                       in northern Europe where the unseasonable weather led to                  than 40 percent last year.
                       difficult retail conditions. Despite this, sales in northern Europe          Inditex’s ailing rival, Hennes & Mauritz AB,
                       were well ahead of last year driven by increased selling space.           aims to add online sales in all its brick-and-
                          The company’s operating margin during the period declined              mortar markets eventually, and expand in
                       to 9.8 per cent from 10 per cent year-on-year, due to the adverse         other countries as well. The H&M chain has
                       effect of the US dollar exchange rate on purchases. But margin            e-commerce in about 50 markets and stores
                       in H2, driven by the weakening of the US dollar exchange rate, is         in about 70. n
                       likely to be more than in the first half and last year. n

                                                                          APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE         | October 2018 / 11

Apparel_Oct_shortstories.indd 2                                                                                                                      10/1/2018 7:25:29 PM
AppArel / Case Study

                                                     Zara
                                           Success secret
                                             decoded
                      Customer insights are the holy grail of modern business, and more the
                      companies know about their customers, the better they can innovate
                      and compete. This is the winning formula that Zara has been using to
                      beat the competition and remain successful over the years. An intriguing
                      case story by Martin Roll Company…

                      Z
                                   ara is one of the world’s most            The secret to Zara’s success has largely being driven by its
                                   successful fashion retail brands.     ability to keep up with the rapidly changing fashion trends and
                                   With its dramatic introduction        showcase it in its collections with very little delay. From the
                                   of the concept of fast fashion        very beginning, Zara found a significant gap in the market that
                      retail since it was founded in 1975 in Spain,      few clothing brands had effectively addressed. This was to keep
                      Zara aspires to create responsible passion         pace with latest fashion trends and offer collections that are a
                      for fashion amongst a broad spectrum of            combination of high quality and yet, are affordable.
                      consumers, spread across different cultures            The brand keeps a close watch on how fashion is changing
                      and age groups. There are many factors that        and evolving every day across the world. Based on latest styles
                      have contributed to the success of Zara but        and trends, it creates new designs and puts them into stores
                      one of its key strengths, which has played a       in a week or two. In stark comparison, most other fashion
                      strong role in it becoming a global fashion        brands would take close to six months to get new designs and
                      powerhouse as it is today, is its ability to put   collections into the market.
                      customers first. Zara is obsessed with its             It is through this strategic ability of introducing new
                      customers, who have defined the company            collections based on latest trends in a rapid manner that has
                      and the brand’s culture right from the very        enabled Zara to beat other competitors. It quickly became the
                      beginning.                                         people’s favourite brand, especially with those who want to keep

                      12 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct.indd 12                                                                                                                         10/1/2018 6:03:43 PM
AppArel / Case Study
                                                                                            Winning formula
                                                                                                Zara’s unrelenting focus on the customer
                                                                                            is at the core of the brand’s success and
                      up with fashion trends. Founder Amancio Ortega is famously            the heights it has achieved today. Customer
                      known for his views on clothes as a perishable commodity.             insights are the holy grail of modern business,
                      According to him, people should love to use and wear clothes          and the more companies know about their
                      for a short while and then they should throw them away, just          customers, the better they can innovate and
                      like yogurt, bread or fish, rather than store them in cupboards.      compete. But it can prove challenging to have
                                                                                            the right insights, at the right time, and have
                      Success strategies                                                    access to them consistently over time.
                          The media often quotes that the brand produces ‘freshly               One of the secrets of Zara’s success is
                      baked clothes’, which survive fashion trends for less than a          that the brand trains and empowers its store
                      month or two. Zara concentrates on three areas to effectively         employees and managers to be particularly
                      ‘bake’ its fresh fashions:                                            sensitive to customer needs and wants, and
                          Shorter lead times (and more fashionable clothes): Shorter        how customers enact them on the shop
                      lead times allow Zara to ensure its stores stock clothes that         floors. Zara empowers its sales associates
                      customers want at that time. While many retailers try to forecast     and store managers to be at the forefront of
                      what customers might buy months in the future, Zara moves in          customer research – they intently listen and
                      step with its customers and offers them what they want to buy         note down customer comments, ideas for
                      at a given point in time.                                             cuts, fabrics or a new line, and keenly observe
                          Lower quantities: By reducing the quantity manufactured           new styles that its customers are wearing that
                      for a particular style, Zara not only reduces its exposure to any     have the potential to be converted into unique
                      single product but also creates artificial scarcity. Similar to the   Zara styles.
                      principle that applies to all fashion items (and more specifically        Due to Zara’s competitive customer
                      luxury), the lesser the availability, the more desirable an object    research capabilities, its product offerings
                      becomes. Zara only has two time-bound sales a year rather than        across its stores globally reflect unique
                      constant markdowns, and it discounts a very small proportion          customer needs and wants in terms of
                      of its products.                                                      physical, climate or cultural differences.
                          More styles: Rather than producing more quantities per            It offers smaller sizes in Japan, special
                      style, Zara produces more styles, roughly 12,000 a year. Even         women’s clothes in Arab countries, and
                      if a style sells out quickly, there are new styles waiting to take    clothes of different seasonality in South
                      up the space. This means more choices and a higher chance of          America. The fact that Zara’s designers and
                      getting it right with the consumer. Zara only allows its designs      customers are inextricably linked is a crucial
                      to remain on the shop floor for three to four weeks. This             part of the brand strategy. Specialist teams
                      practice pushes consumers to keep visiting the brand’s stores.        receive constant feedback on the decisions
                                                                                            its customers are making at every Zara
                                                                                            store, which continuously inspires the Zara
                                                                                            creative team.

                                                                                            Super-efficient supply chain
                                                                                                Zara’s highly responsive, vertically
                                                                                            integrated supply chain ships new products
                                                                                            to stores twice a week. After products are
                                                                                            designed, they take around 10 to 15 days
                                                                                            to reach the stores. All its clothes items are
                                                                                            processed through the distribution center in
                                                                                            Spain, where new items are inspected, sorted,
                                                                                            tagged, and loaded into trucks. In most cases,

                                                                        APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE    | October 2018 / 13

Apparel_Oct.indd 13                                                                                                                           10/1/2018 6:03:43 PM
AppArel / Case Study

                      clothing items are delivered to stores within
                      48 hours. This vertical integration allows
                      Zara to retain control over areas like dyeing
                      and processing and have fabric-processing
                      capacity available on-demand to provide the
                      correct fabrics for new styles according to
                      customer preferences.
                          It also eliminates the need for warehouses
                      and helps reduce the impact of demand               the most outstanding pieces in the collection, are also a powerful
                      fluctuations. Zara produces over 450 million        communication tool designed by a specialised team. A lot of
                      items and launches around 12,000 new designs        time and effort is spent designing the window displays to be
                      annually, so the efficiency of the supply           artistic and attention grabbing. According to Zara’s philosophy
                      chain is critical to ensure that this constant      of fast fashion, the window displays are constantly changed.
                      refreshment of store level collections goes         This strategy goes down to how the employees dress as well
                      off smoothly and efficiently.                       – all Zara employees are required to wear Zara clothes while
                          In addition to these supply chain               working in the stores, but these ‘uniforms’ vary across different
                      efficiencies, Zara can also modify existing         Zara stores to reflect socio-economic differences in the regions
                      items in as little as two weeks. Shortening         they were located.
                      the product life cycle means greater success
                      in meeting consumer preferences. If a design        Rising up to the challenges
                      does not sell well within a week, it is withdrawn        For Zara to effectively compete and maintain its strategic
                      from shops, further orders are cancelled and a      advantage, the focus needs to shift away from price but
                      new design is pursued.                              towards quality. Even today the Zara brand enjoys high levels
                                                                          of appeal, which is evident by the serpentine queues outside
                      Brand communication                                 its stores when it launches in new markets. There is a need for
                      strategy                                            Zara to start investing in building a strong brand positioning
                          Zara has used almost a zero advertising         and aggressively communicate it. Additionally, Zara needs to
                      and endorsement policy throughout its entire        adopt, imbibe and leverage social media and digital platforms
                      existence, preferring to invest a percentage of     in its advertising and communication strategies deeper going
                      its revenues in opening new stores instead.         forward. Without advertisements, Zara relies heavily on
                      It spends a meagre 0.3 per cent of sales on         word of mouth or social media. This causes the perception
                      advertising compared to an average of 3.5           of potential customers towards Zara to be heavily shaped by
                      per cent by competitors. The brand’s founder        family and friends, which may not be accurate. In addition,
                      Amancio has never spoken to the media nor           Zara’s social media platforms such as Facebook and YouTube
                      has in any way advertised Zara. This is indeed      exist merely as a feed for updates rather than a platform that
                      the mark of a truly successful brand where          consumers can interact with. Its videos on YouTube are also
                      customers appreciate and desire the brand,          seeing very low viewership in comparison with its follower
                      which is over and above product level benefits      count, which is not ideal as videos are a powerful medium
                      but strongly driven by the brand experience.        for brands in the fashion industry. This is a gap that Zara
                          Instead of advertising, Zara uses its store     needs to plug immediately as the reach and impact of social
                      location and store displays as key elements of      media marketing gets stronger. As Zara’s target customer
                      its marketing strategy. By choosing to be in        segments start using more social and digital platforms for
                      the most prominent locations in a city, Zara        communication and for sharing their lives, it is important for
                      ensures very high customer traffic for its          Zara to have a strong presence on such platforms. n
                      stores. Its window displays, which showcase                                                 Source: Martin Roll Company

                      14 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct.indd 14                                                                                                                             10/1/2018 6:03:44 PM
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Apparel_Oct.indd 15                                                                                  10/1/2018 6:03:44 PM
AppArel / Retail

                      Gap Inc faces
                      challenging times ahead
                      F
                                   ollowing a strong industry retail     Accelerating store openings
                                   report of growth of 6.6 per cent         Gap has speeded up Old Navy store openings. The brand
                                   and 6.4 per cent in June and July     opened over 30 stores in FY 2017, and 28 in H1 2018, along
                                   versus the previous year, and         with 85 remodels. The performance of these stores is exceeding
                      stellar results posted other leading like Urban    expectations and remodels are outperforming the fleet by an
                      Outfitters, much was expected from the             average spread of five comp points. The company further
                      company Gap Inc. However, the performance          plans to double store openings as compared to FY 2017, which
                      of the brand Gap left much to be desired. Gap      should help increase revenues.
                      Inc’s comparable sales increased only 2 per
                      cent as against the expected 1.5 per cent, while   Introduction of plus collection
                      comparable sales of the Gap as a brand fell 5          Old Navy will launch its plus collection, which was previously
                      per cent against the expected decline of 2.3 per   available only online, in 75 select stores. The women’s plus-
                      cent. However, the growth of company was led       size market is growing at a higher rate than the overall apparel
                      by Old Navy, followed by Banana Republic as        market. According to NPD, even with just the online business,
                      these brands performed in-line with estimates.     Old Navy falls within the top 10 women’s plus-size brands
                      As per analysis of Forbes, the following factors   and the expansion of the category in the stores represents a
                      may influence the brand’s future performance:      significant growth opportunity.

                      16 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct.indd 16                                                                                                                           10/1/2018 6:03:44 PM
AppArel / Retail

                                                                                           Improvement in online
                                                                                           business
                      Focus on Athleta and Old Navy                                            The company has one online platform
                          Sales in the activewear category increased 2 per cent, valuing   for all its brands, ensuring customers can
                      the market at roughly $48 billion in 2017. The brand registered      purchase items for in one place. This also
                      a double-digit growth in its second quarter and the momentum         ensures recognition for its new brands which
                      is expected to continue through FY 2018. The company                 would not have been possible if they had had
                      expects its future store openings to be focused on Athleta and       a separate web presence. An upshot of this is
                      Old Navy, with closures weighted toward Gap and the Banana           that the company was able to deliver strong
                      Republic.                                                            growth from its online and mobile channels in
                                                                                           the second quarter, and is on track to garner
                      Excess inventory impacts margins                                     over $3.5 billion in digital sales this year.
                           The company was saddled with excess inventory in the first          Gap Inc. is increasing store count of
                      quarter, which consequently impacted its sales from this brand       Athleta, Old Navy, and the factory and
                      as well as its ability to optimise its margins. The overall gross    outlets at the Banana Republic and Gap.
                      margins of the company fell by 10 basis points in the quarter,       Consequently, in the first half, the company
                      after a 20 basis point decline in Q1. Looking ahead, the company     opened 60 stores, largely Old Navy and
                      has cut 30 per cent styles heading into the second half of the       Athleta, and closed 38 stores, primarily Gap
                      financial year, which should help to improve the performance.        and Banana Republic. n

                                                                        APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE   | October 2018 / 17

Apparel_Oct.indd 17                                                                                                                        10/1/2018 6:03:45 PM
AppArel / Business

                       Indian apparel market to reach $155 billion by 2022

                      T
                             he Indian apparel market is slated to                 accordingly. For example, men and women display different
                             grow at the rate of 15 per cent CAGR till             drivers for entering the purchase funnel. Fashion brands need
                             2022. Purchases of seven out of 10 fashion            to adopt relevant marketing strategies and reduce friction in
                       accessories in India during this period will be
                       executed through mobile phones. Nearly
                       half of these mobile-executed purchases will
                       be driven by Facebook, amounting to a 110
                       billion dollar sales opportunity. Additionally,
                       the mobile will influence two in three apparel
                       purchases, amounting to a 66 billion dollar
                       opportunity for brands, half of which will be
                       driven by Facebook.
                          Friction accounts for 19 per cent of
                       consumer dropouts in the apparel category,
                       while in the accessories category, it accounts
                       for 22 per cent of consumer dropouts. Friction
                       occurs when consumers dropout during
                       purchase due to unnecessary additional                      consumer journeys across multiple touch-points, leading to
                       effort, incremental step or inconvenience                   improved conversion rates and increased revenue opportunity.
                          Top friction areas for different demographic                The fashion spectrum in India has evolved considerably
                       cohorts vary, therefore marketers need                      enabling the apparel and accessory market to reach $155
                       to customise their marketing strategies                     billion by the year 2022. n

                            India likely to overtake China in textiles business

                           O
                                     wing to the availability of cheap labor and
                                     modernisation, India is likely to outpace
                                     the Chinese textile sector. The country can
                            easily counter Chinese competition with the aid of
                            cheap and skilled labor.
                               India, with the help of FDI, aims to double its
                            annual revenue from textiles by 2025. This will
                            also create millions of jobs in the sector. High-
                            tech machines, which deliver quality goods,
                            will enable India to reach the set targets at the
                            production level. Tamil Nadu, which has 4.13 lakh
                            handlooms, alone accounts for 39 per cent of
                            the total textile production in the country. These
                            provide employment to around 6.08 lakh weavers
                            in the state. The state also has 3.66 lakh power
                            looms and 1,889 spinning mills that provide
                            employment to another 2.40 lakh people, while
                            knitwear and woven garment production units
                            provide employment to over five lakh people.
                               The textile sector in India is showing signs of
                            recovery. The stressed advance ratio of the textile    hit by demonetisation, GST, rupee appreciation and high domestic
                            sub-sector has improved in March 2018 from the         cotton prices. Packages and incentives are expected to create a strong
                            levels of September 2017. The sector was heavily       turnaround in the textile and clothing sector.

                       18 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct_shortstories.indd 3                                                                                                                             10/1/2018 7:26:56 PM
AppArel / Business

                       India to change the rules of origin clauses in FTAs

                      I
                         ndia is planning to change the clauses for the rules of origin      Bangladesh, with which India has FTAs.
                         in the free trade pacts, including the South Asian Free Trade         As India has not imposed any sourcing
                         Agreement, as the country fears that with the US-China trade        restrictions on less developed countries
                       war escalating, Beijing may divert its manufactured goods into        (LDCs), analysts believe China can use the
                       the Asian markets.                                                    LDC route. Besides Bangladesh, within Asia,
                          India’s trade deficit with China has already increased to          Nepal, Afghanistan, Myanmar, Maldives and
                       $62.9 bn in 2017-18 out of a bilateral trade worth $89.6bn in         Cambodia are LDCs.
                       the last fiscal.                                                                           The country has increased
                       The country does                                                                        its basic customs duty
                       not have any                                                                            on printed circuit boards,
                       free trade pact                                                                         including        populated,
                       (FTA) with India.                                                                       stuffed and loaded PCBs,
                       However, policy                                                                         as well as camera modules
                       makers feel that                                                                        and connectors used in
                       Beijing may use                                                                         mobile phones to 10 per
                       other countries                                                                         cent from zero, seen as
                       in South East                                                                           part of a bid to kick-start
                       Asia and South                                                                          the much hyped “Make in
                       Asia, such as                                                                           India” campaign. n

                       Recovery in sight for Indian                                             India: Rising yarn prices
                       textile industry                                                         worry hosiery makers
                      T
                            he textile sector in India, hit by demonitisation, GST, rupee

                                                                                                H
                            appreciation and high cotton prices, is showing signs of                  osiery manufacturers in Mumbai are
                            recovery. The stressed advance ratio of the textile sub-sector            protesting against the rising prices of
                       has improved in March 2018 from the levels of September 2017.                  yarn. Yarn rates, which were around Rs
                         Support in the form of the Rs 1300-crore ($US 185.41 million)          255 till January, have reached Rs 400 per kg.
                       Samarth scheme for skilling and the Rs. 6000-crore($US 855.86            The prices have almost doubled during these
                       million) package for apparel and made-ups, along with various            six months. Due to this many manufacturers
                       incentives, is expected to create a strong turnaround in the             are losing orders.
                       textile and clothing sector and put the industry back on the                Dealers are also urging the government
                       growth path.
                         What the industry now needs is policy support to stop excess
                       imports and refund of all duties and taxes on exports across
                       the value chain. In the financial year 2018, imports of textiles
                                                                and apparel were 16
                                                                per cent higher than the
                                                                previous year’s value. All
                                                                categories across the
                                                                value chain have seen a         to deal with the issue of cartelisation in yarn
                                                                drastic rise in imports.        industry. Many hosiery manufacturers have
                                                                  Moreover, embedded            protested against this “cartel” of yarn dealers
                                                                duties, in the range of 4       and owners. Under the banner of For Arm
                                                                per cent to 6 per cent          Welfare Organisation, they burnt the effigy of
                                                                across the value chain,         yarn dealers/ owners of yarn manufacturers.
                       are not getting refunded. This is one of the key factors for the         They are now trying to meet Member of
                       decline in exports; apart from blockage of funds due to delay in         Parliament Ravneet Singh Bittu on this issue. n
                       GST refunds and rupee appreciation. n

                                                                         APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE        | October 2018 / 19

Apparel_Oct_shortstories.indd 4                                                                                                                   10/1/2018 7:26:56 PM
AppArel / cover story

                                                             Market Focus
                           UK to remain a lucrative
                          market for Indian apparels
                               against all odds
                        UK has always been a key textile and apparel market for India. However, with
                      Brexti, the actual effects on the apparel industry will only be clear once the terms
                       of trade are negotiated. Indeed, Brexit is expected to impact India’s exports in
                           some ways. Stakeholders are still waiting for the clear picture to emerge.

                      T
                                  he UK and India have more than        India’s apparel exports to the UK
                                  200 years of shared history with      remains steady
                                  powerful democracies, connected           For India, the UK is a key market for textile and apparel
                                  cultural institutions and a strong    products. Out of India’s total textile and apparel exports to
                      economic trade relationship. The Indian           the EU, the UK’s share was 23 per cent in 2016. India is the
                      Diaspora, which totals about 1.5 million          fourth largest supplier of textile and apparel products to the
                      people, is the largest ethnic minority group in   UK. Apparel is the largest category with a share of 75 per cent
                      the UK, has an important role to play in many     in India’s textile and apparel exports to the UK. This is followed
                      spheres ranging from economic and business        by cotton textiles and manmade textiles having shares of 12 per
                      relations to sports, science and politics.        cent and five per cent.

                      20 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct.indd 18                                                                                                                          10/1/2018 6:03:45 PM
AppArel / cover story

                          As a trendsetter in global fashion, the apparel and footwear
                      market in the UK has been growing steadily over the last seven      and the pound plummeted to its lowest level
                      years, with 2018 expected to bring the current market value         in 31 years with $2 trillion wiped off the
                      to a massive €60.7 billion. Besides market value, the annual        global stock market. Tariff-free trade in the
                      expenditure on clothing which is based on sales volume has          EU, free movement of talent and skills, EU
                      also seen a gradual increase, reaching £57.8 billion in 2017.       funding and investments were the lifeline of
                          As prevalent in all markets around the world, the maximum       UK’s apparel industry.
                      sales come from women’s outerwear which is almost double of              Actual effects of how Brexit will affect
                      men’s outerwear purchasing. Many leading brands are doing           the apparel industry will only be clear after the
                      well in the UK market, including high street retailers, which       terms of trade are negotiated.
                      include brands such as Primark, Next, New Look as well as               However, a soft Brexit, which is a sigh of
                      online shops, like ASOS. In recent years, growth in internet
                      sales has been considerably high, with 56 per cent of individuals         India’s exports to the UK
                      purchasing clothing online in 2017. Despite this growing trend,           account for less than 7 per cent
                      many consumers still prefer to buy clothes in physical shops              of total textiles but more than 10
                      and offline purchases are predicted to remain responsible for             per cent in case of apparels. In
                      around 71.2 per cent of sales by 2020.                                    2015, exports to UK aggregated
                           Many high street brands have now set up shop in Indian               $2.41 billion including $1.81
                      malls of Tier I and II cities. Many brands are importing their            billion of apparels alone. This
                      raw material from India or doing the finishing work on their              shows trade between India
                      garments by outsourcing from India, thus leading to a healthy             and UK becomes pertinent for
                      economic relationship between the two countries.                          apparel. Although it is a large
                          The UK is a major consumption centre of a variety of
                                                                                                market for India, it is more
                      textile and apparel products from around the world. Apart from
                                                                                                or less saturated now with so
                      these, other varieties such as manmade textiles, cotton textiles,
                                                                                                many players. Post Brexit, it is
                      and carpets are also imported from other countries. China is
                      the largest supplier, followed by Bangladesh, Turkey and India.
                                                                                                expected to be a growing market
                                                                                                for high value-added products
                      Brexit’s fallout on trade still                                           over the next few years. Many
                      undetermined                                                              large Indian mills such as Arvind
                          Beset by a protracted economic recovery, rising cost of               Mills, D’Décor, Oswal, Mafatlal
                      massive European Union (EU) bureaucracy, and migrant crisis,              and Raymond and other premium
                      Britain opted to exit the EU. On June 23rd, 2016, when Britain            producers have been exporting
                      voted to leave the European Union, the 28-nation trading bloc             to UK labels

                                                                       APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE     | October 2018 / 21

Apparel_Oct.indd 19                                                                                                                           10/1/2018 6:03:46 PM
AppArel / cover story

                                                                         on its trade with India because of the EU’s failure to agree to a
                                                                         free trade deal. However, the deal has been held up for a decade
                                                                         by EU regulations on intellectual property and data protection,
                                                                         with which India is refusing to comply. But after Britain leaves
                                                                         the EU, the deal can go ahead because British trade negotiators
                                                                         regard the disputed EU rules as unnecessary. A Commonwealth
                                                                         report, whose 52 member nations also include India and the
                      relief for the apparel industry, is expected.      UK, says Brexit will bring forth a great opportunity for bi-
                      Before its exit, Britain had a trade agreement     lateral relationship when actually implemented.
                      with the EU but now, all trade between
                      Britain and EU would be as per the WTO             UK’s apparel manufacturing market
                      rules. This means, trade between Britain and       holds steady
                      EU will be subject to trade tariffs on imports         Inspite of market fluctuations and changes in regulations,
                      and exports, the textile goods tariff being        apparel manufacturing market has been holding steady in the
                      around 12 per cent. It is mainly the UK-based      UK. There has been an increase in the number of companies
                      garment companies that will suffer by these        over the last five years and a rise in the value of clothing
                      tariffs and their only way out is to pass on       exports, which was worth approximately £6 billion in 2017.
                      the extra cost to customers. This will further     Growth in the apparel market has also been supported by the
                      impact retail as a whole and further impact        rise of niche markets, such as plus size clothing, which garnered
                      the companies doing business with British          £18.7 million in 2016 alone. Plus size clothing in many styles
                      apparel firms globally. There may be chances       and brands has lately taken over the women’s apparel market by
                      of a negotiable free-trade deal as well, similar   storm. There will be initial turmoil post Brexit as there will be
                      to Norway (EFTA) and other new regulations.        some structural market changes and fresh negotiations.
                      Britain will be able to increase its exports to        In perspective, EU imported textiles worth $235 billion in
                      India by more than £2 billion per year after       2015 from the world. Of this, UK accounted for 15 per cent or
                      Brexit by cutting EU red tape.                     $35 billion. Thus, the country is one of the largest markets for
                          The UK currently faces significant tariffs     textiles including fibres, yarns, fabrics, apparels and other textile
                                                                         products. However, it is not a major supplier of this industry

                          The impact on India’s exports
                        is expected to happen in some
                             ways. There will soon be an
                           inevitable decline in demand
                         for India’s goods and services
                              because of Brexit-induced
                       growth slowdown in the UK and
                       EU, and also some un-favorable
                              exchange rate movements

                      22 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct.indd 20                                                                                                                              10/1/2018 6:03:47 PM
AppArel / cover story

                      and thus will have negligible impact on sourcing.                    a FTA with the EU and preferring a separate
                           India’s exports to the UK account for less than 7 per cent      economic pact with the UK. India currently
                      of total textiles but more than 10 per cent in case of apparels.     enjoys a 12.5 per cent tariff preference in
                      In 2015, exports to UK aggregated $2.41 billion including $1.81      the EU under its generalised scheme of
                      billion of apparels alone. This shows trade between India and        preferences programme.
                      UK becomes pertinent for apparel. Although it is a large market          However, the initial hurdle is the UK will
                      for India, it is more or less saturated now with so many players.    firstly have to negotiate terms and conditions
                                                                                           of trade with many different countries, besides
                                                                                           India. So India will have to prove itself to be
                                                                                           the best viable option and this will involve
                                                                                           many complex and market interdependent
                                                                                           variables. What to export/import in what
                                                                                           quantity and what pricing between will be a
                                                                                           different ball game altogether post Brexit.

                                                                                           Change is inevitable
                                                                                               A recent report on India’s trade relations
                                                                                           with the UK says the value of India’s exports
                                                                                           to the EU in FY16 stood at $45 billion, which
                                                                                           is around 17 per cent of its total merchandise
                                                                                           exports in dollar terms. Of that, Britain alone
                                                                                           accounted for over 20 per cent, equivalent to
                                                                                           $9 billion. Of this, around $2.5 billion or 28
                                                                                           per cent was apparels and made ups. Overall,
                      Post Brexit, it is expected to be a growing market for high value-   Britain accounted for 40 per cent of India’s
                      added products over the next few years. Many large Indian mills      total merchandise exports to the EU.
                      such as Arvind Mills, D’décor, Oswal, Mafatlal and Raymond and           The impact on India’s exports is expected
                      other premium producers have been exporting to UK labels.            to happen in some ways. There will soon be
                         Indian garment exporters however are now a little perturbed       an inevitable decline in demand for India’s
                      about how the post Brexit economic relationship will work out.       goods and services because of Brexit-induced
                      After separation from EU, they are looking at a trade treaty         growth slowdown in the UK and EU, and also
                      with a free trade agreement (FTA) with the UK which will help        some un-favorable exchange rate movements.
                      boost garment exports. Knitwear exporters are also pitching for          Brexit will have direct and indirect impact

                                                                        APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE   | October 2018 / 23

Apparel_Oct.indd 21                                                                                                                          10/1/2018 6:03:47 PM
AppArel / cover story
                                                                          discretionary spending is limited. Young clothing shoppers have
                                                                          higher purchase frequency, with 58.1 per cent of 16-24s buying
                                                                          clothing at least once a month, boosted by fast fashion trends
                                                                                                       and shoppers’ desire for newness. In
                                                                                                       comparison, just 14.6 per cent of 65
                                                                                                       plus age group, buy clothing at least
                                                                                                       once a month.
                                                                                                           Experts feel the future of India-
                                                                                                       UK relations is bright and India
                                                                                                       can play an important role once
                                                                                                       Britain exits the EU. However,
                                                                                                       Indian exports could face increased
                                                                                                       competition from cheaper Chinese
                                                                                                       products—from steel to textiles—
                                                                                                       not only in European markets but
                                                                                                       also in third country export markets
                                                                                                       such as the US, because of relative
                                                                                                       weakness of the yuan vis-a-vis rupee
                                                                          against the dollar.
                                                                              Brexit and the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) trade deals
                                                                          are two big threats for the revival of India’s exports to the
                                                                          UK. However, an intelligent precaution over the last few years
                                                                          India has diversified its exports significantly away from the EU
                                                                          and other developed markets towards emerging markets of
                                                                          Asia, Africa and Latin America. This is expected to minimize
                      on growth prospects of both Britain and the         the damage to current market. However, Brexit could be
                      EU. As per IMF, Brexit will mop up anything
                      between 1 to 9 per cent of Britain’s GDP
                      growth rate, depending upon actual terms
                      of withdrawal from the EU. If Britain fails
                      to retain duty-free market access, rise in EU
                      tariff and non-tariff trade barriers will disrupt
                      existing supply chains. That, along with
                      slowing GDP growth, will reduce the demand
                      for India’s exports to the region.
                          Brexit will come at a time when emerging
                      economies are struggling to export to the rest
                      of the world. Industry experts feel that it will
                      make India’s exports revival quite difficult
                      unless it’s a soft Brexit.
                          Value for money is the biggest purchase         problematic for sectors which are overexposed to Britain and
                      motivator for clothing, especially among            EU, like textiles and clothing, IT and pharmaceuticals. The
                      mature shoppers. This is followed closely           Japanese Yen has gained immensely against the dollar over the
                      by quality and then price. Across all socio         last few quarters and that makes its imports cheaper. India can
                      economic groups, value for money and quality        use this limited window to push exports to Japan to make up
                      were the top two drivers, ensuring it is not low    for the likely loss from Brexit. Industry experts are now seeing
                      prices alone that will garner sales as shoppers     a wait and watch policy till the impact of Brexit is truly felt in
                      look to justify purchases at a time when their      the Indian markets. n

                      24 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct.indd 22                                                                                                                            10/1/2018 6:03:48 PM
AppArel / Exports

                       US-China trade war benefits India exports
                      T
                           he trade war between the US and China
                           has presented India with an opportunity to
                           export more cotton, corn, almonds, wheat
                       and sorghum to China. There are at least
                       100 products where India can replace US
                       exports to China by benefiting from the higher
                       import duty China has imposed on products
                       originating in the US.
                         While China has imposed 15 to 25 per
                       cent tariff on these goods coming from the
                       US, other countries are subject to a five to a
                       10 per cent duty. Moreover, India has been
                       granted additional duty concessions under
                       the Asia Pacific Trade Agreement, making its
                       exports more competitive.
                         Fresh grapes, cotton linters, fluecured                       exports of these products because of the tariff differential and
                       tobacco, lubricants and certain chemicals,                      the substantial demand in China.
                       including benzene, are a few products which                       Corn is of specific interest to India as the country is a huge
                       the US has been exporting to China. India too                   corn exporter. While American corn is subject to 25 per cent
                       has been exporting these products to China                      duty, APTA countries can get up to 100 per cent concessions on
                       but now there is scope for India to increase                    corn exports to China. n

                            Falling rupee boosts India’s exports sector

                           I
                              ndian exporters are buoyant due to the falling rupee.       Those who have just raised funds, especially in dollars or about to
                              The auto component players are especially happy          close a fund, are in the positive sphere. Venture capital money is drawn
                              with increasing flow of dollars. It has resulted in      over time and the exchange rate matters only at the time of withdrawal.
                            businesses, transacted in dollars (the IT, apparel,        Those who have drawn down their tranche of capital in the last two to
                            leather or textile sectors), to make a substantial gain    three months will gain 6 per cent -7per per cent only due to exchange
                            of 7-8 per cent. Those raising funds from the Indian       rate fluctuations. The current slide augurs well for those intending to
                            market can be rest assured as investments typically        raise money from the domestic market. However, despite gains, the
                            pour in with a one-year timeline.                          moot point is having a stable currency should be the way forward. n

                                                                                      APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE           | October 2018 / 25

Apparel_Oct_shortstories.indd 5                                                                                                                                   10/1/2018 7:28:35 PM
AppArel / Exports

                       Tirupur knitwear exports decline by 13%
                      K
                            nitwear     exports    from
                            Tirupur, in the first four
                            months of the current
                       year, have fallen by 13 per
                       cent. A major reason for this
                       is GST and the consequent
                       reduction in duty drawback
                       and rebate of state levies. The
                       basic customs duty has been
                       increased from 10 to 20 per
                       cent on specified garments.
                          The duty hike on import of
                       23 knitted garment items and
                       one knitted fabric is expected
                       to protect the domestic textile
                       industry. Knitwear exporters
                       had been appealing for swift action in this                  of labor, low wages and customs exemption available to these
                       regard as textile imports from countries such as             countries in EU and Canada. Under the South Asian Free Trade
                       China, Bangladesh, Vietnam and Cambodia                      Area agreement, specified garment items imported into India
                       have increased significantly.                                from Bangladesh are also exempted.
                          Exporters have urged for a restriction on                    The Tirupur knitwear cluster is looking forward to the Indo-
                       import of textile products. They have prepared               Pacific economic corridor as it would open up traditional
                       a white paper detailing the threat from China,               apparel markets abroad. The corridor is a treaty of 12 countries,
                       with Chinese companies setting up factories                  including India, the US, Australia, Indonesia, Japan and New
                       in countries bordering India to take advantage               Zealand among others. n

                            India to double exports by 2025
                           I
                               ndia plans to double its exports by 2025.
                               These exports will not only create jobs but
                               also bring in foreign exchange and validate
                            India’s international competitiveness in view of
                            the challenges like uncertainty of global trade,
                            rigid approach of banks which affects availability
                            of credit, high logistics cost and productivity
                            standards and qualities.
                               India will focus on 12 identified sectors for
                            promoting their development, and realising their
                            potential. It is preparing a special strategy for the
                            services sector to achieve broad-based growth
                            instead of the existing pre-dominance of IT. New
                            structures, policies and action plans will be
                            formulated for the sector.                              country will boost trade with smaller countries and explore new
                               Attention will also be given to gems and jewelry,    territories like Africa, which has 54 countries but accounts for only 8
                            leather, textile and apparel, engineering sector,       per cent of exports from India.
                            electronics, chemicals and petrochemicals,                 India has acceded to the WTO’s Trade Facilitation Agreement. An
                            pharma, agri and allied products and marine             action plan containing specific activities to further ease bottlenecks to
                            products. Apart from traditional markets, the           trade has been prepared. n

                       26 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | October 2018

Apparel_Oct_shortstories.indd 6                                                                                                                                 10/1/2018 7:28:35 PM
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