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TRAVEL | OUTDOORS
Exploring Scottsdale. . . 52
72 Hours in St. George. . 63
PHOTO MATT SEUSS
A glorious Sonoran
Desert sunset.
S E P T / O C T 2 0 1 8 | S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
52 worth a trip 53
apprentices. But his cocky and his work huge mounds of desert
wild nature, manic was getting notice in silt, covering them in
Revival in
energy and boundary- important circles,” she concrete and digging out
pushing designs says. “I suspect that the dirt, leaving behind
didn’t mesh with the wasn’t to Mr. Wright’s a dome structure that
monastic environment liking.” Whatever inspired George Lucas’
at Taliesin. He was also the reason, Soleri left design of the Skywalker
the Desert
challenging Wright Taliesin for Italy in 1950. Ranch in the opening
on the national stage, He could not, however, scenes of Star Wars.
winning exhibitions in just let things lie. He Tours daily.
New York and making returned to Arizona in
the cover of the Rolling 1956 to establish his Play
Stone of architecture, own rival school and
Now it’s time to enjoy the
Art, Architecture and Design Unstuff-ify SCOTTSDALE Architectural Digest. workshop, which he
desert, specifically the
still trains architecture And, although there is called Cosanti (6433
BY JEREMY PUGH Salt River. Yes. A river.
students in Wright’s no definitive account of E. Doubletree Ranch The Salt River flows
methods, which, in a why Soleri was expelled Rd., Paradise Valley, past the cities of Mesa,
tradition dating back to from Taliesin West, Claire 480-948-6145, cosanti. Tempe and Scottsdale,
the school’s earliest days, Carter, the curator at com). Cosanti remains a then south of downtown
requires students to live The Scottsdale Museum working workshop where Phoenix, and is a haven
in a tent in the desert of Contemporary Art apprentices fire Soleri’s for wildlife. Birds, river
and design and build (7374 E. Second St., Cosanti Bells, elaborate otters and herds of wild
their own desert shelters Scottsdale, 480-874-4666, bronze or ceramic wind horses find their way
to live in. Wright was a smoca.org), who has chimes, to help fund the to the flowing water
madman for order and studied Soleri’s career continued work on Soleri’s and a kayaking trip is a
this National Historic extensively, believes masterwork Arcosanti riot of desert life. Book
Landmark is a marvel of the Italian’s splashy (see sidebar). Where a tour with Arizona
thoughtful design and success in New York Taliesin West is all right Outback Adventures
building. Not a blade of was a threat to Wright’s angles (Wright angles?), (866-455-1601, aoa-
grass is out of place. The near-domination of the Cosanti is wild and adventures.com). Or
The exterior of Frank Lloyd site offers tours daily. American architectural organic. He pioneered a spend a day hiking in
Wright’s Taliesin West at 12621 N. Frank Lloyd scene. “Soleri was brash, technique of building up the McDowell Sonoran
dusk. Below: Interior room
at Paolo Soleri’s Cosanti. Wright Blvd., Scottsdale,
Above: Scottsdale Museum franklloydwright.org/
of Contemporary Art. taliesin-west
Wright’s Rival
materials that could If Frank Lloyd Wright
Taliesin West: Frank
PHOTOS: (MUSEUM) AN PHAM FOR EXPERIENCE SCOTTSDALE;
be harvested from the was a madman for
(COSANTI) RYAN CORDWELL FOR EXPERIENCE SCOTTSDALE.
Scottsdale Arizona is Paolo Soleri. The two rivals represent
Phoenix’s posh neighbor, dotted with a yin and yang of design philosophies. Lloyd Wright’s Legacy surrounding desert all
to the end of working
order, Paolo Soleri was
just plainly a madman.
gated communities, resorts, spas and Their apprentice compounds—Wright’s Frank Lloyd Wright came to with, instead of against, Although his reputation
fancy hotels. While Arizona in gen- fastidious Taliesin West and Soleri’s Arizona in the 1930s to create the terrain. “There were has recently been
PHOTO (TALIESIN WEST) TALIESIN WEST
eral remains best known for retirees, chaotic Cosanti—are magnets for a a space where he could work in simple characteristic tarnished by posthumous
snowbirds and a particular brand of revival in interest in the area’s older peace and train his apprentices. silhouettes to go by, allegations of sexual
Don’t Tread on Me conservativism, a homes and buildings, especially mid- He built Taliesin West (named tremendous drifts and abuse, Soleri’s work
new generation is taking up residence century projects from the 1940s to ‘60s. in concert with his Wisconsin heaps of sunburned remains an important
in the area, drawn there not for golfing Scottsdale’s stuffy reputation is giving workshop Taliesin) in what was desert rocks were nearby part of design history.
but for art, architecture and design. way to a second look from a younger then the middle of nowhere—26 to be used,” Wright said. The Italian architecture
These design nerds are taking note generation and the cooler fall weather miles from Phoenix. Wright and “We got it all together student came to Taliesin
because of the legacy of two giants of makes for the perfect time to explore his students built everything with the landscape.” West in 1946, to study
architecture—Frank Lloyd Wright and the new scene. at Taliesin West by hand, using Today Taliesin West among Wright’s
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | S E P T / O C T 2 0 1 8 S E P T / O C T 2 0 1 8 | S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
54 worth a trip
of wine after 8 p.m. For Fastidiously renovated
a taste of Old Arizona, in the now-retro decor
PHOTOS: (PADDLE BOARDING ) ARIZONA OUTBACK ADVENTURES; (MOUNTAIN SHADOWS) MOUNTAIN SHADOWS; (CLOTH AND FLAME) JEREMY PUGH
visit The Mission that is so chic, it’s
(3815 N. Brown Ave., chic again. Take your
Scottsdale, 480-636- wife there, please. For
5005, themissionaz.com) even more throwback,
in Old Town Scottsdale. visit the Hermosa Inn
Try the Malbec-
(5532 N. Palo Cristi Rd,
braised short rib and
Paradise Valley, 602-
chorizo porchetta. For
955-8614, hermosainn.
an exciting dining
com) Handcrafted in the
adventure, find yourself
1930s by cowboy artist
in the Sonoran Desert
with Cloth and Lon Megargee as his
Flame (480-428-6028, residence and art studio,
clothandflame.com) this hacienda with its
Stand up paddle boarding 34 guest casitas is like
on the Salt River with
which sets up pop-up
Arizona Outback Adventures restaurants amid the staying at Hopalong
saguaro cacti. Cassidy’s house. If
boutique-on-top-of-
Preserve (18333 N. collaborations with local
Thompson Peak Pkwy., farmers, FnB highlights Stay boutique style—with a
dash of the artisanal,
Scottsdale, 480-312- a different Arizona At the foot of Camelback
is more your bag—
7013, mcdowellsonoran. growing region every Mountain lies Mountain
org). The preserve is four weeks. consider the Bespoke
Shadows (5445 E.
nearly 36,000 acres of For a marriage of food Inn (3701 N. Marshall
Lincoln Dr., Scottsdale,
permanently protected and architecture (and Way, Scottsdale, 844-
480-624-5400,
land, an area larger more wine) try Postino mountainshadows.com), 861-6715, bespokeinn.
than the cities of (4821 N. Scottsdale Rd., once the resort to the com). Bespoke Inn
Tempe and Paradise Scottsdale, 602- 428- stars who came to escape shares a courtyard with
Valley combined. For 4444, postinowinecafe. the flashbulb paparazzi. Virtù (480-946-3477,
SOLERI’S more art and culture, com). Postino’s owners In the interim, the resort virtuscottsdale.com), a
UTOPIAN DREAM: take a walking or bike find mid-century modern fell into disrepair but its James Beard-nominated,
commercial buildings
ARCOSANTI tour of the Scottsdale
(think banks, post
new heyday has arrived. chef-driven restaurant.
Public Art Program
Seventy miles north of offices) and turn them
(scottsdalepublicart. A desert sunset with
Phoenix lies Arcosanti, into restaurant spaces.
org), a diverse collection Cloth and Flame
an ongoing endeavor
of 70 permanent and 30 Also, their happy hour
to build one of Paolo
temporary artworks. is bananas—$5 glasses
Soleri’s fantastic cities of
of wine and pitchers
the future. Soleri drafted
of beer before 5 p.m.
plans for hundreds of
cities. Published in his
Dine and $20 for a board of
book, Arcology, a term he Scottsdale’s dining scene bruschetta and a bottle
invented, commingling has mirrored the town’s
the words “architecture” artistic revival. Take for
and “ecology.” He began example, FnB (7125 E.
construction in 1970 5th Ave. #31, 480-284-
and acolytes still journey
4777, fnbrestaurant.
to Arcosanti to join
com) a haven of local
intensive five-week-long
workshops where they food and local wine. Yes,
study Soleri’s work, Arizona has a growing
techniques and continue wine industry. Helmed
the city’s construction. by James Beard Award
arcosanti.org finalist Chef Charleen
Badman, known for her
Mountain Shadows
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | S E P T / O C T 2 0 1 8
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