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EDITORIALS
                        CONT
  4. ITALY CELEBRATES YEAR                     18.
                                                        MISCELLANY
                                                        LAKES AROUND ROME                                                                                                                                                                                                        34.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       WHAT'S ON
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         EXHIBITIONS
         OF DANTE                              20.      ROME FOR children                                                                                                                                                                                                        38.     ART news
         Andy Devane
                                               22.      STREET ART guide                                                                                                                                                                                                         43.     Opera
  8. RUINS, PAST AND FUTURE                    24.      MUSEUMS                                                                                                                                                                                                                  43.     Classical
         Martin Bennett
                                               26.      ART GALLERIES
  14. REFLECTIONS FROM
                                               45.      CULTURAL VENUES
         A ROMAN LAKE
         Mary Jane Cyran
                                               51.      RECIPE
                                               52.      puntarella rossa
                                               54.      USEFUL NUMBERS

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME - Magazinos.com
ENTS
                4
              ITALY CELEBRATES
               YEAR OF DANTE

34
EXHIBITIONS
                                 10
                                 REFLECTIONS FROM
                                 A ROMAN LAKE

              43 ART NEWS
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME - Magazinos.com
Literature

                                      ITALY CELEBRATES
                                         YEAR OF DANTE
                   2021 MARKS 700 YEARS SINCE THE DEATH OF
                      THE FATHER OF THE ITALIAN LANGUAGE

                                                                                     Andy Devane

I
    taly is marking the 700th anniversary of the          The precious drawings are normally only available
    death of the mediaeval poet and philosopher           to view by a handful of scholars and have been seen
    Dante Alighieri, known as the Father of               by the public just twice: first in 1865 and again in
the Italian language, with a programme of                 1993. The online show of high-definition images is
commemorative events throughout 2021.                     called To See the Stars Again (A riveder le stelle).

Celebrations began with the Uffizi Gallery in Florence    Dante died before the Black Death swept through
launching a free virtual exhibition of 88 fragile         Italy however, seven centuries later, another
drawings for The Divine Comedy, Dante’s epic work         pandemic is upsetting the programme of events
which he completed a year before his death in 1321.       in his honour. At the time of writing, Tuscany
Depicting scenes of hell, purgatory and heaven,           is classified as a medium-risk orange zone under
the sketches by the 16th-century Renaissance artist       Italy’s tiered system of covid-19 restrictions, after
Federico Zuccari passed through the hands of the          the museums of Florence enjoyed five weeks of
powerful Orsini and Medici families before becoming       being open under the less-strict yellow zone rules.
part of the Uffizi collection in the 18th century.
                                                          The covid-19 regulations matter little in the case
                                                          of the online Dante exhibition at the Uffizi, now
                                                          closed to visitors. However Tuscany’s colour-coded
                                                          demotion came just days after Florence’s town
                                                          hall in Palazzo Vecchio put Bronzino’s allegorical
                                                          portrait of the mediaeval poet on display.

                                                          The work was commissioned by the Florentine
                                                          banker Bartolomeo Bettini in the early 1530s,
                                                          according to Giorgio Vasari in his Lives of the Artists.
                                                          It is hoped that the painting can go back on public
                                                          display before the exhibition is scheduled to end on
                                                          31 May but for now Palazzo Vecchio remains closed.

                                                          As Florence honours one of its most famous sons,
                                                          perhaps the Tuscan capital is keen to make up for
                                                          the way it treated Dante in the past. A descendant
                                                          of the poet made headlines recently by dusting
                                                          off a 700-year-old court case, keen to restore the
                                                          good name of his esteemed forebear.

Italy's logo for Dantedì, the national day in honour of   Astrophysicist Sperello di Serego Alighieri and
Dante Alighieri.                                          law professor Alessandro Traversi are seeking

4 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME - Magazinos.com
Domenico di Michelino, Dante e il suo poema, 1465. Fresco, Cattedrale di S. Maria del Fiore, Florence.

a pardon of sorts for Dante who – after failing                  dead: Inferno (hell), Purgatorio (purgatory), and
to appear in court in 1302 on charges of fraud,                  Paradiso (heaven).
perjury, extortion and embezzlement – was
sentenced to be burned at the stake.                             Dante, who began composing the groundbreaking
                                                                 trilogy in or around 1308, wrote the poem’s
Rather than face this terrible fate Dante chose to leave         14,233 lines in the vernacular, opting for the
the city of his birth, never to return. His descendant           Tuscan dialect which was accessible to the masses
told Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera that the              rather than the traditional Latin reserved for the
trial was “politically motivated” and the “death                 most educated readers.
penalties inflicted on my dear ancestor are unjust.”
In May a mock retrial in the form of a conference                Dante’s unorthodox approach paved the way for
will take place in Florence, with historians, linguists          important Italian writers such as Petrarch and
and lawyers examining whether Dante’s sentence                   Boccaccio, while his depictions of hell, purgatory
was the result of regular judicial proceedings or the            and heaven had a profound influence on western
“poisoned fruit of politics,” according to Traversi.             art, from Sandro Botticelli to William Blake.

Florence’s loss was Ravenna’s gain, for             it was       The first printed edition of the book was published in
in this city near the Adriatic coast that            Dante       Foligno on 11 April 1472, with 14 of the original 300
settled for the remaining years of his life.        It was       copies still in existence. Today Dante’s masterpiece
here that he completed the work which               would        is widely considered the pre-eminent work in Italian
guarantee him eternal fame.                                      literature and one of the greatest works of world
                                                                 literature. There are few poets in western literature,
But why exactly did La Divina Commedia make                      from the Romantics to the contemporary, who have
such an indelible impression on both literature                  not been inspired by Dante.
and theology? The long narrative poem represents
a 14th-century vision of the afterlife, describing               Dante’s milestone has also prompted Italy to
Dante’s journey through the three realms of the                  create a Museum of the Italian Language, in

                                                                                       Wanted in Rome • January 2021 | 5
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Literature
                                                           Dante is hitting the radio airwaves too with the
                                                           poet’s verses being streamed every Monday at
                                                           11.00, 13.00, 16.00 and 18.00 on Radio Dante,
                                                           via www.radiomi.al.

                                                           Wordsmiths and Dante fans are also being
                                                           entertained by Accademia della Crusca in
                                                           Florence, the world’s leading authority and
                                                           research centre on the Italian language. Every
                                                           day this year it is publishing a new word or
                                                           expression coined by the poet, accompanied
                                                           by an explanation, on its website www.
                                                           accademiadellacrusca.it.

Luca Signorelli, portrait of Dante. Fresco (1500-1504),    This month will see the second, bumper edition
Cappella della Madonna di S. Brizio, Duomo of Orvieto.     of Dantedì, a national day dedicated to Dante.
Florence, with works to begin this year after being        Launched last year by Italy’s culture ministry,
stalled by covid-19. The museum will be housed             Dantedì is held annually on 25 March, the date
in a wing of the S. Maria Novella complex that             given by scholars for the start of the journey
played a decisive role in Dante’s studies and in           to the afterlife in The Divine Comedy. Culture
writing his masterpiece.                                   minister Dario Franceschini effused: “Dante
With funding of €4.5 million from Italy’s culture          reminds us of many things that hold us together:
ministry, the new museum will outline the                  Dante is the unity of the country, Dante is the
history and evolution of the Italian language and          Italian language, Dante is the very idea of Italy.”
celebrate Italy’s great writers such as Boccaccio,         Many of the anniversary events will be staged in
Dante, Machiavelli and Petrarch. The museum is
                                                           Ravenna, where the exiled poet died of malaria
to market itself on an international level and will
                                                           in 1321, aged 56, and where his tomb can be
adopt an interactive approach with the aim of
                                                           visited at the Basilica di S. Francesco. From
attracting younger visitors.
                                                           virtual tours to lectures, events are planned in 70
Dante continues to reach new audiences thanks              Italian towns and villages connected to the poet
to literary initiatives being streamed on radio            either through his writings or personal life.
and television. Following in the footsteps of the
                                                           One of the biggest events is the ambitious exhibition
memorable readings by Roberto Benigni a few
                                                           project Dante: The vision of art to be held in Forlì
years ago, a new project emerged during lockdown
                                                           from 12 March until 4 July, subject of course to
last year when actress and theatre director Lucilla
                                                           covid rules. “A great show will be dedicated to
Giagnoni dedicated herself to Dante in the
                                                           the Supreme Poet in a strongly symbolic place,
north-west Italian city of Novara. With special
                                                           because it was in those lands that the author of
permission to leave her home, Giagnoni sat on the
                                                           The Divine Comedy spent several years of his exile”
stage of Teatro Faraggiana for 100 days, with her
                                                           – said Eike Schmidt, director of the Uffizi which
husband on sound and daughter filming, as she
read a “canto a day” from March to June.                   is co-organising the exhibition. The display will
                                                           include portraits of Dante by Andrea del Castagno
Now her project, which saw up to 70,000 viewers            and Pontormo’s Expulsion from Paradise, alongside
tuning in during lockdown, makes its debut on              works by Michelangelo and Zuccari.
national television. Each evening until 25 March,
RAI5 will screen three verses a day, with The Divine       To keep up to date with Italian events for the
Comedy being read in its entirety on Italian television.   anno dantesco as they are announced, follow
                                                           #Dante2021 on social media. However it is worth
The epic work will also be read in Milan’s                 remembering that it is not just Italy making a
Duomo, from 7 April until 15 July, in 100 canti in         fuss. Commemorative events are taking place
100 giorni, a collaboration between the musicians          around the world, in multiple languages, making
of Teatro alla Scala and the students of the               Dante’s writings accessible on a scale that the
Piccolo Teatro di Milano.                                  great poet could never have imagined.

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Exhibitions

                RUINS, PAST AND FUTURE
  ROME'S ARA PACIS SHOWS MORE THAN 100 BLACK
AND WHITE IMAGES OF ANCIENT ROMAN AND GREEK
    HERITAGE TAKEN BY MAGNUM PHOTOGRAPHER
       JOSEF KOUDELKA IN THE MOST IMPORTANT
 ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN

                                                                                Martin Bennett

A
         sked in an interview to name a                    The show opens with a view of Delphi; dated
         photographer’s most precious asset, Josef         1991, recent or not so recent here are particularly
         Koudelka, exile and chronicler of the             relative. In an interplay between human/historical
1968 Prague Spring and now resident in Paris,              time and its geological counterpart, stacked drum-
replied, “A good pair of shoes.”                           like sections of what were once Doric columns
                                                           foreground a mountainside. On the wall opposite,
Or maybe a dozen, given that the exhibition now on         photo-turned-panoramic-window          frames   the
display at Rome's Ara Pacis museum was 28 years            temple of Hercules outside Amman. Off right a
in the making. A map of the travelling exhibition          colossal hand and disjointed elbow of the demi-
pinpoints a blistering 200 sites visited, often times      god is caught in the act of hauling himself upwards
over in Koudelka’s pursuit of perfection: west-east        through a crack. Or is he clinging on for dear life
from Morocco or Portugal to Petra or Palmyra;              until the ground consumes him? Who knows.
north-south from Plovdiv (Bulgaria) to Algeria,
Libya or Egypt. “To choose between endless striving        In one photograph the now horizontal Doric
and wise resignation,” as he puts it, another key          drums resemble the vertebrae of some mastodontic
quality being patience, a trust that repetition will       animal. Another picture revolves around a single
eventually deliver the definitive shot, leaving the        drum slanted, dipping toward the viewer, part
photographer free to move on.                              chthonic cog, part massive sunflower.

Aphrodisias, Turkey, 2014. © Josef Koudelka/ Magnum Photos / Contrasto.

8 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME - Magazinos.com
Exhibitions

Palmyra, Syria, 2006. © Josef Koudelka/ Magnum Photos / Contrasto.

"Evidence," in another of Koudelka’s phrases,              in Ostia the goddess Roma as imperious Amazon,
gets twinned with "enigma." Cubist houses of the           only that like a moon in eclipse half of her face
modern suburbs behind the ruin photographed                has gone missing: all photos on the benches are
are just visible through a haze of grey. In another        hauntingly, not to say disconcertingly, laid flat.
room, layering three millennia, a shot of the
Roman Forum features a paving slab of the Via              Collapse can suggest chaos, as in a view of
Sacra accompanied by protective guard-rail for             Selinunte, atria, architraves or peristyles heaped
present-day tourists. Temples and churches (or             like rubble, entropy spelt in marble and granite.
amalgams of both) lean like ghosts to either side.         Yet in other photographs columns have fallen
                                                           with a grace of their own, preserving an order
Compared to his Magnum Studio colleague                    in destruction.
Henri Cartier-Bresson, the past-master of human
movement, Koudelka’s work is markedly static.              Ruins, yet with a still impressive strength. A
And in contrast to C-B , who had an exhibition in          photo of the oldest ruin, placed modestly on
Rome 10 years ago, in Koudelka’s work there is             top of one of the benches, is tagged 2600-2250
scarcely a living person in sight. Movement occurs, if     BC; the paved ramp at the image’s centre leads
at all, in the form of gravity; collapse and destruction   to Troy’s Scaean Gate whence, Homer tells us,
also frequently produce patterns all their own. An         the Trojans would venture to battle with the
ex-painter, Cartier-Bresson possessed an unerring          Greek army on the plain below. Thanks to the
sense of geometry; so with equivalent precision does       Romans' use of the arch, the Pont du Gard
Koudelka, a former aero-engineer, the absence of           acqueduct in France remains not just majestically
colour serving to focus the attention on the ‘fearful      upright. Helped by Koudelka’s camera-work, the
symmetry’ of his scenes. C-B captures moments in           structure is doubled in the relection below.
time – the so-called ‘infinite instant’; Koudelka, for
his part, directs the gaze not ‘in’ time so much as        There are two pictures of Roman roads: one from
‘across’ it. (C-B would tease Koudelka by saying his       Via dei Cureti in Ephesus, the other, from out
work resembles so much ‘spaghetti.’)                       along the Appian Way, still shows the tracks of
                                                           chariots and ancient carts. Koudelka represents
The massive wall-photographs come interspersed             both sets of slabstones vertically. One might
with smaller scenes placed on top of benches,              wonder whether our tarmacked motorways will
occupying the museum floor like the tumbled                last a fraction as long. Meanwhile, suggesting
masonry they represent. As when visiting an                the darker side of empire, there’s a view of the
archaeological site, one is tempted to sit down on         Colosseum. Decorous statuary and travertine
them. (Attendants are on hand to prevent this              long vanished, we share a downward look onto
happening.) Olympia; Rome’s Domus Augustana,               the monument’s innards, the ragged circles and
Trajan’s arch, here in Algeria not the Forum; back         sinster tunnels conjure up Dante’s hell.

                                                                             Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 9
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME - Magazinos.com
Exhibitions

The Koudelka exhibition at the Ara Pacis can be visited until 16 May.

More serene is the temple of Poseidon in Greece.              he contorts himself, a sort of optic acrobat,
Five columns still standing form a shutter onto the           wriggling his still limber frame into alignment
sea-god’s realm. Off left two figures, tiny as inverted       with his ageless model.
commas, peer out on our behalf. Occupying the
foreground like a beached boat is a fallen frieze.            A previous Koudelka show in Rome (at Trajan’s
The pagan god seems present even in his own                   Markets in 2003) was entitled Teatro del tempo.
absence. In the distance hump-backed islands                  Ancient theatres recur here. In Sagalosso, Turkey,
extend the gaze beyond any easy formulation. ‘The             one is cut from a rocky slope, giving the impression
enigma of beauty’ is Koudelka’s phrase. Another               of the landmass behind gradually taking back
photo, again from Ostia Antica, represents the same           what is its own. The theatres at Epidaurus and
god in a mosaic riding a marine chariot, cherubs,             at Pergamon seem to invite us modern citizens (if
dolphins and the odd sea-serpent as outriders. The            again invisibly) to take centre stage. "Ruins are
diagonal play of light evoking the element over               not the past, but the future, seeking our attention
which the god’s trident holds sway.                           and beckoning us to enjoy the present while it
                                                              lasts," Koudelka offers further caption.
The show ends with an intriguing hands-on video
of the master at work. One notes Koudelka’s                   At once concentrating and widening perspectives,
beatific smile throughout. Like a spectrometre on             this exhibition lingers in the mind for days, and
legs, he walk and walks. Waits, now pausing for               especially nights. "The enigma of beauty," yes.
midday snooze, now consulting his wristwatch                  Also power and even a hint of terror, what’s
turned triangulation-device for the right slant               beyond tame definition, to summarise Edmund
of light or most telling angle. In one shot he                Burke’s concept of the sublime. Here’s history
interacts with a frieze containing a reticent                 for everyone, though captured within a vaster
legionnaire. More waiting for the Roman soldier               time-frame whose immensity precedes or shall
to fully present himself. Then, snap: There he                surely follow it.
is, like a fully developed negative. Photographer
can finally bid his subject a happy farewell.                 The exhibition can be visited Mon-Fri 09.30-18.30
                                                              until 16 May at the Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in
To capture a carved female head, in Turkey, he                Augusta. Online booking advised, for full details see
doesn’t just walk. His 80 years no impediment,                website, www.arapacis.it.

10 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 11
Book Review

                                    REFLECTIONS FROM
                                        A ROMAN LAKE
         AS MORE PEOPLE SEEK A QUIETER PACE OF LIFE
         OUTSIDE ROME, JUDITH HARRIS WRITES ABOUT
               LIVING IN NEARBY TREVIGNANO ROMANO

                                                                                 Mary Jane Cyran

T
        he publication of Judith Harris’s latest            smallest of three towns on the perimeter of
        book is very timely as real estate brokers          pristine Lake Bracciano, just an hour north of
        are noting a surge of interest for spacious         Rome. Trevignano, the most ancient of the three,
residences in small towns outside of major cities           has preserved many of its original traditions and
around the world. Why live in a cramped apartment           local dialect while Bracciano and Anguillara, on
in Rome, New York or London when you can enjoy              the train line linking Rome and Viterbo, have
a quieter, healthier and less expensive lifestyle with      morphed into dormitory suburbs of the capital
more space for family and working from home.                with enormous expansion in the past 40 years.

Reflections from a Roman Lake, Trevignano Romano,           The first part of Reflections describes Trevignano’s
a biography of an adoptive home is a love story             long and intricate history, beginning with the
that Harris dedicates to her adopted home, the              prehistoric settlement of La Marmotta discovered

Trevignano is located about 50 km north of Rome. Photo ValerioMei / Shutterstock.com.

12 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Trevignano Romano sits on the northern shore of Lake Bracciano.

and excavated by underwater archaeologists between                and gold jewellery. Over the years she gained
1989 and 2009. Archeologists who excavated the                    vast knowledge of archaeology in Italy which she
underwater site say that in approximately 5,600 BC                passes on to the reader in this and a previous
it was home to about 500 people. The prehistoric                  book, Pompeii Reawakened: a Story of Rediscovery.
village was submerged by the lake waters when
an earthquake or other natural disaster occurred,                 Through personal encounters and research in
similar to what happened to the Roman colony                      specialised texts Harris gleans information about
Baiae / Baia in the Bay of Naples.                                the ancient sites in Trevignano and shares the
                                                                  more interesting tidbits with her readers, making
The site is located under 7m of lake water and                    it easy for the layperson to understand and
nearly 3m of silt which, once removed, have given                 appreciate the various civilisations that existed
up precious objects including pottery shards, opium               on the lakeside: Villanovian settlements, Etruscan
pipes, pirogues, tools, animal bones, food residues               necropoli and imposing Roman vestiges.
and textiles. These are now conserved at the Pigorini
Museum in Rome’s EUR. The most important piece                    The second part of the book tells of the strict
according to archaeologists who worked there, is a                rules people were subjected to by absentee noble
tiny chubby Venus figurine in soapstone which was                 landlords from feudal times right up to the 1950s
discovered inside a sanctuary hut on the lake floor.              when battles for reforms finally resulted in grants to
                                                                  the families that had worked the land for centuries.
Other objects from later Etruscan and Roman times                 She writes about life in the area during more recent
are in Trevignano’s civic museum or can be viewed                 times of war and peace. Harris has interviewed
in situ. These include the marble panel sculpted                  dozens of townspeople, recording their memories
with rosettes from a Roman public building in                     of the harsh life endured by the local fishermen
the main square and the imposing remains of                       and farmers during two world wars when many
the aqueduct which was built by Trajan to bring                   men of the town were conscripted.
precious spring water from the Trevignano and
Bracciano area to the fountains of Rome.                          Talks with elderly local people helped to collect eye-
                                                                  witness details of the German military occupation
Harris narrates how during her early years in                     during world war two when German nuns at the
Trevignano she sometimes heard the whirring                       Vicarello complex cared for their injured military
sound of a mechanical device at night, which                      countrymen. Now abandoned, this picturesque
meant tombaroli, or tomb-raiders, were searching                  borgo was a spa during Roman times and more
the nearby Etruscan tombs for precious Attic vases                recently used as a film set.

                                                                                     Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 13
History

The third section of Reflections is a hymn to the good   Recently the Lazio region has given funds to
life enjoyed by Trevignano residents today, a series     continue the bike path around the lake begun
of cameo appearances featuring residents who have        under a previous administration and more money
left an imprint on the town over the centuries from      to improve the surrounding parklands. However
17th-century saints to ferocious princes, the blind      there are also a few problems. In the chapter Lake
mailman and the pioneer teacher of the hearing-          at Risk Harris denounces the present state of the
impaired, to sculptors and bogus miracle workers.        lake’s health, due to climate change and reduction
                                                         of its water level. The receding lake is a threat to
From a tiny, rather isolated lakeside borgo the
                                                         tourism, one of the area’s major sources of income
town has expanded, welcoming many expats
                                                         today. The use of pesticides for hazelnut orchards
who enjoy living in the area today. Jackie Bennett
Leto who came to live here in 1979 explained the         surrounding Bracciano, and nearby Lake di Vico
phenomenon, mentioning the magical Etruscan              and Lake Bolsena, is another serious problem that
atmosphere, the simple fishing village life and micro    needs to be resolved to protect the bucolic nature
climate which make Trevignano a perfect place for        of the countryside north of Rome.
wine enthusiasts, painters and horse riders.
                                                         The final chapter of Harris’s book Flight, is
For a recent newcomer to Trevignano the location         prompted by the presence near Trevignano of
is ideal, for it is steeped in ancient history and       three interesting centres: the historic Vigna di
on the doorstep of the Tuscia region while still         Valle Aeronautic Museum, a small airport (Scuola
accessible to Rome and its amenities. Nature             di Volo Club Arrow) for ultralight aircraft and the
lovers enjoy the surrounding national forest             centre for Rapacious Birds (Centro Volo Rapaci).
land, windsurfing on majestic Lake Bracciano,            The sprawling aeronautic museum at Vigna di
as well as strolling along the peaceful lakefront,       Valle, a sea plane station during world war one,
having an open air meal or aperitivo at one of           now houses dozens of original historic airplanes
the restaurants and cafes.                               and a few unexpected curiosities: the silk remains
                                                         of a giant hot air balloon which flew from Paris
                                                         to Bracciano in 1804. Perhaps the most curious
                                                         exhibit in the museum however is the embalmed
                                                         dog of explorer Umberto Nobile. Out of a crew of
                                                         16, just nine including Nobile survived months on
                                                         the polar ice, as did Titina the terrior, before being
                                                         rescued. Their story was told in Nobile's 1967
                                                         book which later became the film The Red Tent.

                                                         Five pages of footnotes and a vast bibliography
                                                         complete this extremely interesting and thorough
                                                         exploration of Judith Harris’s adoptive hometown
                                                         of Trevignano.

                                                         See www.judithinrome.com for book trailer and purchasing
                                                         choices. Reflections from a Roman Lake is available in
                                                         ebook form or hardback (Fonthill Media, €26).

                                                         Before searching for a new country residence,
                                                         Judith Harris called historic Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
                                                         home. Among the real estate she turned down was
                                                         a property badly in need of restoration in Vetralla.
                                                         Serendipitously this became my new home in 1993
                                                         and the subject of a bilingual book Painted Palazzo/
                                                         Palazzo Dipinto (Etruria Editions/Archeoares).

14 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Mater Dei SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. G. Cervelli - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. D0111 del 17-03-03
SIEROLOGICAL TEST
COVID-19 IGG - IGM
  IN PRIVATE HOSPITAL

  AT YOUR HOME

  IN YOUR BUSINESS

                                                                                                        Paideia SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. A. Lamanna - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. 1072 del 10-12-02
                     Companies certified with ISO 9001:2015 Quality Management System

YOUR PRIVATE                                                                            Via A. Bertoloni, 34
                                                                                        00197 Rome
                                                                                        +39 06 80220.1

HOSPITALS                                                                               clinicamaterdei.eu

IN ROME                                                                                 Via V. Tiberio, 46
                                                                                        00191 Rome
                                                                                        +39 06 33094.1
                                                                                        clinicapaideia.eu
A FOOTBALL GAME
 UNLIKE ANY OTHER
    GET YOUR
TICKETS ON YOUR
     MOBILE PHONE
asroma.com/en/ticketing
       OR SIMPLY SCAN THIS CODE
              WITH YOUR PHONE
Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 17
LAGO DI ALBANO
                                                         This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with
                                                         beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding
                                                         forests. The picturesque towns along the shores
                                                         serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans,
                                                         including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer
                                                         papal palace whose gardens were recently opened
                                                         to the public. On the other side of the lake is
                                                         Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable
                                                         English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The
                                                         towns surrounding the lake are known for their
                                                         restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming,
                                                         fishing and boating are among the favourite
                                                         activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located
                                                         on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride
                                                         from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by
                                                         taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and
                                                         getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

                          around
                                                                          LAGO DI BOLSENA
                                                         Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant
                                                         since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands
                                                         and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The

                            rome
                                                         area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore
                                                         of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The
                                                         town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist
                                                         resort in summer and it is here that the famous
                                                         so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263
                                                         when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood
                                                         coming from the host that he had just consecrated
                                                         at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake
                                                         is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides
                                                         activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year
                                                         round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from
                                                         Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini
                                                         Station are infrequent.

                   LAGO DI NEMI                                         LAGO DI BRACCIANO
Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake         Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake
where divers in the 19th century discovered two          Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes
large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor        for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a
Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom    little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for
of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures.         swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale
Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are     operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara.
on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships.          Churches and historic sites are located in the three
Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the   small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano
lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century       and Anguillara. There are also places for camping
foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated       and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an
with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for       hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense
the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival.        station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century
Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia      Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen
southbound as far as Genzano, and then following         as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also
signs for Nemi.                                          an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

                  LAGO DI VICO                                          LAGO DI MARTIGNANO
Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus,          This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake
Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop         Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with
                                                         scenic views of the surrounding meadows and
set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding
                                                         wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor
nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is
                                                         activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain
most characteristic of the area are the hazel and
                                                         biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and
chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels
                                                         luggage storage are available to rent along with
offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two
                                                         canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is
towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola
                                                         also known for the hot sulphurous springs surroun-
with its magnificent and recently restored Villa
                                                         ding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car
Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from          is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public
Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at         transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano
Sutri.                                                   and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

18 | January 2021 • Wanted in Rome                                            Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4
IB WORLD SCHOOL

A rewarding international
education. Ages 2 to 18.
Request information!
+39 06 84482 651
romeinternationalschool.it

                             Wanted in Rome • January 2021 | 19
Please note that not all of these activites
 ARTandSEEK
 English-language
 are currently open, culturaldue
                              workshops
                                   to theand   visits to
                                             covid-19      There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and
 museums   and   exhibitions for children
 crisis. It is advisable to check websitesin Rome.   For   a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta),
 event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekfor-       tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.
 for visiting details and make reservation
 kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandse-
 before going.
 ekforkids.com.                                            Casa del Parco
                                                           Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids
 Bioparco                                                  can learn about nature and how to care for the
 Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers         environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature
 special activities for children and their families at     park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409,
 weekends and during the summer. When little legs          www.valledeicasali.com.
 get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric
 train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20        Casina di Raffaello
 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.        Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme
                                                           of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural
 Bowling Silvestri                                         projects and educational activities for children from
 This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course,         the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and
 with good facilities for children aged 4 and over,        17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pincia-
 adults and disabled children.                             na), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

20 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Cinecittà World
This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic
of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and
virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super
Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with
cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from
EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S.
148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.
Climbing
Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and
competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.
Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torri-
no/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.
Explora
The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises
creative workshops for small children in addition to
holding regular animated lectures, games and
meetings with authors of children’s books. Via
Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.
Go-karting
Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for
children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult
and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see          Luneur
website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel.        Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is
0665004962, www.kartroma.it.                              Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include
                                                          ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo
Gymboree                                                  tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style
This children's centre caters to little people aged       farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee
from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities,       €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre
music, art, baby play, school skills and even English     Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.
theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante
(Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gym-          Rainbow Magicland
bo.it.                                                    The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are
                                                          divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and
Hortis Urbis                                              kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water
Association providing hands-on horticultural              roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and
workshops for children, usually in Italian but someti-    the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte,
mes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend         south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038
activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and   Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.
harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be
accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia            Time Elevator
Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.                         A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema
                                                          experience with a motion-base platform, bringing
Il Nido                                                   the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun
Based in Testaccio, this association supports             way. The time-machine's commentary is available
expectant mothers, parents, babies and small              in six languages including English. Daily
children. It holds regular educational and social         11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS.
events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata            Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-eleva-
169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazio-         tor.it.
neilnido.it.
                                                          Zoomarine
                                                          This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome
                                                          offers performances with dolphins, parrots and
                                                          other animals for children of all ages. It is also
                                                          possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10
                                                          must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca
                                                          61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoo-
                                                          marine.it.
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  The M.A.G.R.
          M.A.G.R. (Museo(Museo Abusivo
                                      Abusivo    Nuovo       MercatoViaTrionfale,
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                                                                                                   the Istituto        di Vittorio
                                                                                                                   Superiore     di Lattanzio,
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                 opposite           landmark     Primavalle
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                                 details see     The   Roadkill
                                                  Cristoforo     by Fintan Magee. Via
                                                             Numai.                                   Pietro
                                                                                                   S. Pietro
  www.999contemporary.com.
www.999contemporary.com.                         Cristoforo   Numai.
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                                                                                                                  Bordalo  II. Stazione
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                                                                                                                            di Gallo.
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                           dell’Altrovedidi      Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.                    Gallo.
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  This former
This     former meatmeat factory
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                                          the    Quadraro
                                                  Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio                Hunted
                                                                                                   TestaccioWolf by ROA. Via Galvani.
  outskirts of
outskirts     of Rome
                 Rome isis now
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                                    street art   Tunnel
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                                                             Via Decio byMure.
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                                                                                                                               Pasquini, Via
                                                                                                                                   Galvani.
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  migrants.     The Museo      dell’Altrodi e    del
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                                                                      Ron English. Via dei         Tor Pignattara
Museo     dell’Altro   e dell’Altrove
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                                                  PisoniHulk
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                                                 Pisoni 89.
onis Saturdays,
      only open   andon    Saturdays,
                       features  the workand                                                       Etnik.  Via Bartolomeo
                                                                                                   Dulk. Via                Perestrello 51.
                                                                                                                Antonio Tempesta.
offeatures
    more thanthe work   of moreincluding
                  300 artists     than 300        Rebibbia                                         Coffee
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                                                                                                             ViabyBartolomeo
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                                                                                                                                 Perestrello
  artists including                              Rebibbia
Edoardo        Kobra,Edoardo
                           Gio Kobra,    Gio
                                  Pistone,        Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via             Pavoni.
                                                                                                   51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via
  Pistone, Sten&Lex                              Murals     by Blu.   Via
                                                                        dèCiciliano
                                                                            Pazzi). and Via
Sten&Lex,       Pablo and    Diamond.and
                         Echaurren        See     Palombini
                                                 Palombini
                                                                (Casal                             Tom   SawyerPavoni.
                                                                                                   Ludovico      by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio
  MAAM Facebook page for details.                 Welcome to(Casal       dè Pazzi).
                                                                    Rebibbia  by Zerocalcare.      Serbelloni.
Borondo.    See MAAM Facebook page               Welcome      to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.          Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via
  Via Prenestina 913.                             Metro B station.                                 Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema
for details. Via Prenestina 913.                 Metro B station.                                  Gabrio Serbelloni.
                                                                                                   Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.
                                                                                                   Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema
 Ostiense                                         S. Basilio                                       Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo
Ostiense                                         S.SanBa
                                                     Basilio                                       Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.
 Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto                     features large-scale works on          Alessi.
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del                 SanBa     features   large-scale works            Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via
 Fluviale.                                        the façades     of social-housing   blockson
                                                                                             in    Herakut. Via Capua 14.
Porto Fluviale.                                  the                                               Galeazzo Alessi.
 Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via             the façades     of social-housing
                                                      disadvantaged                     blocks
                                                                         north-east suburb   of    Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.
Fish’n’Kids  by Agostino Iacurci. Via
 del Porto Fluviale.                             in   the disadvantaged
                                                  S. Basilio   near Rebibbia. The  north-east
                                                                                      regenera-
                                                                                                   Herakut. Via Capua 14.
del Porto  Fluviale.
 Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei                suburb     of S.includes
                                                  tion project      Basilio works
                                                                             near Rebibbia.
                                                                                     by Italian    Agostino
                                                                                                   Tor         Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.
                                                                                                        Marancia
Wall  of Fame
 Magazzini      by JB Rock. Via dei
             Generali.                           The
                                                  artistsregeneration
                                                          Agostino Iacurci,project
                                                                               Hitnesincludes
                                                                                       and Blu     The Big City Life scheme features 14-m
Magazzini   Generali.
 Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass,            works
                                                  alongside by Spain's
                                                                 ItalianLiqen.
                                                                           artistsViaAgostino
                                                                                       Maiolati,   Tormurals
                                                                                                   tall   Marancia
                                                                                                                 by 22 Italian and interna-
Shelley     by
 Via Ostiense.    Ozmo.      Ostiense            Iacurci,
                                                  Via Osimo, Hitnes     and BluVia
                                                                  Via Recanati,     alongside
                                                                                       Arcevia,    The Big
                                                                                                   tional      City artists
                                                                                                            street   Life scheme      features
                                                                                                                              including    Mr
underpass,  Via Ostiense.
 Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.          Spain’s
                                                  Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via               14-m tall
                                                                                                   Klevra,  Seth,murals  by Jerico.
                                                                                                                   Gaia and  22 Italian   and
                                                                                                                                     The idea
Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via                     Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia,                 international
                                                                                                   was              street
                                                                                                         to transform   theartists
                                                                                                                             area's including
                                                                                                                                     blocks of
Ostiense.
 Pigneto                                         Via  Treia.
                                                  S. Giovanni                                      Mr Klevra,
                                                                                                   flats           Seth, Gaia
                                                                                                         into an open-air        and Jerico.
                                                                                                                            art museum.    Via
 Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by               Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via                 TheMarancia.
                                                                                                   Tor   idea was to   transform the area’s
                                                                                                                    www.bigcity.life.it.
Pigneto
 Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.                S.Apulia
                                                     Giovanni
                                                            corner of Via Farsalo.                 blocks of flats into an open-air art
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by               Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via                  museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full
Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.                 Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.                     details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

22 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen,
Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
     Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen,
     Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

                                                                                                Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 23
ROME'S MAJOR

                                                            MUSEUMS
 PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO
 CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS                                                       Crypta Balbi
                                                                      Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeo-
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.            logia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages
Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and                 on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of
Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.         Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free
entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours   Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For               Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.benicul-
private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26                turali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30-
December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.                     19.30. Mon closed.
Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
                                                                      Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums                            Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private                 modern art collection. Mon closed.
behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
                                                                      MAXXI
STATE MUSEUMS                                                         Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.
                                                                      National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid.
Baths of Diocletian                                                   Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoro-
ma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the       Palazzo Corsini
Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the            Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsi-
restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.           ni.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s
                                                                      Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101,           Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova,           Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14
paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.                  (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00
15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.                    Palazzo Altemps
                                                                      Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700,
Castel S. Angelo Museum                                               www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantan-            Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.
gelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes               09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
                                                                      Palazzo Barberini
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine                                   Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberini-
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza         corsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century
di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.                        paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and
Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colos-               Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
seo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the            Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.be-
Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino;             niculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture,
last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English          coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano,
and Italian.                                                          including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

  24 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
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                                          Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 25
Villa Farnesina                                                       PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A
16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by             Casa di Goethe
Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.                       Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.
                                                                      Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.00-
CITY MUSEUMS                                                          18.00. Mon closed.
Centrale Montemartini                                                 Chiostro Del Bramante
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemarti-
ni.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoli-       Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages
ne Museums are on show in a former power plant.                       exhibitions by important Italian and international artists.
09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if        Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035
reserved in advance.                                                  www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums                                                    Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitoli-               Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323,
ni.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo         www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it
Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and           contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a
the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for             portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by
groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.                         Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna                                      Galleria Colonna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it.       Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galle-
The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.        riacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido
                                                                      Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00
MACRO Asilo                                                           only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of
free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end    request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange
of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.                                     alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO                                                             Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.         Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechiri-
Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.               co.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio
                                                                      de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.
Museo Barracco                                                        Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A
collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.   Keats-Shelley House
                                                                      Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-hou-
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi                                       se.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s        poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.
collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and         Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.
clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.        Guided tours on prior booking.
Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior
booking tel. 0682059127.
                                                                      Museo storico della Liberazione
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets                         Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum       Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum
dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and     were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from
the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.                         1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica                                                        Palazzo Merulana
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museoca-       Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.
nonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the        Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection,
sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.               including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation.
09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English          09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
(book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleo-
nico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napole-
on and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Guided tours in Italian and English.

 26 | March 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Wanted in Rome • March 2021 | 27
PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF
                                                                                          THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY
                                                                                          OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS.
                                                                                          IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK
                                                                                          WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS
                                                                                          AND TO MAKE RESERVATION
                                                                                          BEFORE GOING.

                              ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

                              ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove                                                     Franz Paludetto
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and interna-           Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and
tional contemporary artists and explores various media            international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18,
including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli         www.franzpaludetto.com.
Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
                                                                  Frutta
A.A.M. Architettura                                               This contemporary art gallery supports international and
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contem-            local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel.
porary design, photography, drawings and architecture             0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537,
www.ff-maam.it.                                                   Gagosian Gallery
                                                                  The Rome branch of this international contemporary art
Contemporary Cluster                                              gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty       Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel.
0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.                          GALLA
                                                                  Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconven-
C.R.E.T.A.                                                        tional art works at affordable prices by artists working in
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual,           various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515,
humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops,          www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei
Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.                   Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
                                                                  Gallery showing the works of important Italian and interna-
Dorothy Circus Gallery                                            tional visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858,
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist    www.bonomogallery.com.
art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircus-
gallery.com.                                                      Galleria Valentina Bonomo
                                                                  Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both interna-
Ex Elettrofonica                                                  tionally recognised and emerging artists who create works
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes     specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13,
and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S.   tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
                                                                  Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Fondazione Memmo                                                  Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists     emerging and established Italian and international artists.
for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.   Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
                                                                  Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere                                      High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes                  gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.
educational projects and residencies for young artists and        0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures,
workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.             Galleria della Tartaruga
0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.                             Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian
                                                                  and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.
Fondazione Volume!                                                066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically
for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via    Galleria Il Segno
di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazi-     Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and interna-
onevolume.com.                                                    tional artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387,
                                                                  www.galleriailsegno.com.
  28 | January 2021 • Wanted in Rome
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