The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice, Savena and Setta
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_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 9 ag a 5 The Rivers the Futa state highway SS 65 and the road The valleys of the tributaries to the right of along the valley-bottom, which continues as the Reno punctuate the central area of the far as the Lake of Castel dell’Alpi, passing the Bolognese Apennines in a truly surprising majestic Gorges of Scascoli. Along the river, variety of colours and landscapes. They are there are numerous mills, some of which can the Idice, Savena and Setta Rivers, of which be visited, constructed over the centuries. only the Idice continues its course onto the Before entering the plains, the Savena cros- plains, as far as the Park of the Po Delta. ses the Regional Park of Bolognese Gypsums and Abbadessa Gullies, which is also crossed The Idice by the River Idice. The Idice starts on Monte Oggioli, near the Raticosa Pass, and is the largest of the rivers in these valleys. Interesting from a geologi- cal and naturalistic point of view, its valley offers many reasons for a visit. Particularly beautiful is the stretch of river where it joins the Zena Valley: this is where the Canale dei Mulini (mills) branches off, continuing alon- gside it until it reaches the plains, in the ter- ritory of San Lazzaro di Savena. Flowing through the Valleys of Campotto, the Idice finally joins the Reno. Here an interesting system of manmade basins stop the Reno’s water flowing into the Idice’s bed in dry periods. The Setta The Setta’s journey begins in Tuscany, in the Province of Florence, but a few kilometres from its source, it already enters Bolognese territory. A typical Apennine river of a tor- rential nature, its valley has always been a crossroads for people and goods to and from Tuscany. Today this land of travellers offers tourists innumerable opportunities of discovery along ancient trails, on foot, hor- seback or by mountain bike. In the territory of Castiglione dei Pepoli, one of its tributa- ries, the River Brasimone, flows into the Lake of Santa Maria, which, together with the basins of Suviana and Brasimone, make up the Regional Park of the Lakes. From the Setta, the Romans built an under- ground aqueduct (18 kilometres of tunnel, some of which can be visited) which still today carries water to Bologna. A little fur- ther on, about fifty kilometres from its sour- ce, the river ends its course, joining the Reno. The Savena First of all the pronunciation: we say Sávena and not Savéna, as would be natural accor- ding to Italian phonetics. An Etruscan term meaning “vein of water”, the Savena and Reno are the territorial borders of the city of Bologna: Dante Alighieri in the Divine Comedy identifies the Bolognese as living “between the Savena and Reno” (Inferno, River Setta Canto 18th). The river’s course is followed by Photo by Provincia di Bologna 115
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 9 ag a 6 The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice, H Cr Savena and Setta Tu Va the Apennines al m N Tourist itinerary Not to be missed: th The itinerary starts in the Apen- The Bread Route and the ancient mills on the Idice th nines: our main rood will be the and Savena be historical Futa road, on the The Route of the Gods and Bologna-Florence an range between the Savena and Trekking Trails lis Idice, from which there are infi- The Natural Parks re nite possible deviations to The Gardens of Casoncello Fa discover the treasures of the The spa-village of Monterenzio re various valleys. The Monzuno Golf Club Ce The Futa and the Raticosa Pass ge From the SS 65 “Futa” The Etruscan-Celtic village of Monte Bibele liv Highway to the Idice Valley and the Monterenzio Archaeological Museum th - Pianoro The Sanctuary of Boccadirio Bo - Loiano The chestnuts, mushrooms, truffles and their festivals of - Monghidoro The acrobatic park of Monghidoro be - Monterenzio The Loiano Observatory su The Zena Valley th The Valleys between an the Savena and Setta th - Monzuno ni - San Benedetto Val di Sambro ry - Castiglione dei Pepoli of w Pianoro th co w Th ni ne Monterenzio ex cl of ar Monzuno E Loiano F ( F m c Monghidoro n San Benedetto Val di Sambro H T B a t g 1 Castiglione m dei Pepoli o d 116
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 9 ag a 7 History and environment Buon appetito Crossed by the ancient pilgrims’ route from The Bolognese Apennines in these valleys Tuscany, the territory of the Bolognese has remained faithful to the simplicity and Valleys of the Idice, Savena and Setta has flavours of the traditional inn: mountain coo- always been an obligatory passage for com- king which unites the specialities of Emilia mercial and cultural exchanges between and Tuscany. The “tortelli di patate” (filled North and Central Italy. Human presence in pasta) and steaks “alla fiorentina” (T-bone) these Valleys has been found dating back to are a must, as well as unusual dishes such as the Palaeolithic Period and on Monte Bibele, the “agliata” (a garlic-based sauce). Every year between Monterenzio and Loiano, Etruscans in autumn there are festivals based around and Celts left important traces of their civi- chestnuts, mushrooms and truffles, perfect lisations. Created to house the numerous occasions to taste the most classic Apen- relics brought to light in the area, the “Luigi nines products. The ancient presence in the Fantini” Archaeological Museum in Monte- area of water mills has led to the baking tra- renzio today has one of the most important ditions of these valleys, celebrated by the Celtic collections in Italy. According to le- “Bolognese Mountains Bread Route”. gendary sources, the Etruscan King Ocno lived in this area, as also recalled by Virgilio, How to get there the legendary founder of Felsina (today’s - A1 Motorway Bologna-Florence: exit Sasso Bologna), as well as Parma and Mantua. Signs Marconi, Rioveggio, Pian del Voglio and Ron- of the successive passage of the Romans can cobilaccio. be recognised in the Flaminia Minor, a con- - Roads: State highway SS 64 Futa (Pianoro, sular road used by the Roman legions on Loiano, Monghidoro and Firenzuola in Tu- their way to conquer Gaul. Then the castles scany). State highway SS 325 Val di Setta and towers in these valleys take us back to Val Bisenzio (Sasso Marconi, Vado, Rioveg- the troubled medieval affairs of the Apen- gio, Pian di Setta, Castiglione dei Pepoli nines. The Lord of a large part of the territo- and Montepiano in Tuscany). ry in the 11th century was Marquis Bonifacio State highway SP 65 Savena Valley-bottom. of Tuscany, the father of Matilde of Canossa, - Railway: the “Direttissima” Bologna-Florence, who chose to reside in the Castle of Pianoro, with the possibility of transporting bicycles; then destroyed by the Bolognese in 1377. The stations in Rastignano, Pianoro, Monzuno, countryside of these valleys has remained Vado, San Benedetto Val di Sambro e Ca- wild and uncontaminated in many places. stiglione dei Pepoli. The landscape is typical of the mid-Apen- - Buses ATC www.atc.bo.it. connect nine mountains, where the highest peaks are the towns to each other and Bologna never more than 1,200 metres. Ideal for exploring slowly on foot, horseback or cy- Tourist Information cling, here you can experience the emotions Monghidoro - IAT Tourist Office of following in the centuries of footsteps of Via Matteotti, 1 - 40063 Monghidoro (BO) armies, pilgrims and writers. Tel. 051.6555132 - turismo@tuttoservizispa.it www.tuttoservizispa.it Events Opening times: Favolando per le Valli From Monday to Saturday 9-12.30 am / 4-7 pm (Fairy Tales in the Valleys) Sunday (from June to September) 9-12.30 am Festival internazionale dedicato al teatro su misura per bambini e ragazzi ospitato dai comuni delle Valli Bolognesi tra Idice, Save- na e Setta. www.vallibolognesi.it The Bolognese Valleys Tourist System, History and Culture created by the “Five Bolognese Valleys The Bolognese art of Bell-ringing Mountain Community” in conjunction with Between Monzuno and Monghidoro, an the “Idice, Savena and Setta Tourist Consor- ancient musical tradition still survives, linked tium”, offers unique proposals to tourists, to the sound of bells. The roots of the Bolo- allowing them to immerse themselves fully in gnese art of Bell-ringing date back to the mid- uncontaminated countryside, rich in history. 16th century: it requires a particular “athletic- Viale Risorgimento, 1 - 40065 Pianoro (BO) musical” technique, involving on average four Tel. 051.6527743 - Fax 051.774690 or five ringers (one for each bell), still passed info@vallibolognesi.it down from generation to generation. www.vallibolognesi.it 117
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 8 The Ancient Apennine Roads between history and legend The Flaminia Minore and the Via degli Dei With the rebuilding of the road in the 18th Pia Between the Futa Pass and the Via Emilia, the century, restoration work was also carried out up last section of the ancient military and pil- on the Customs Houses of La Ca’ in Bologne- ly grims’ road known as “Flaminia Minore” or se territory, now demolished, and the Floren- m “Flaminia Militare” winds. Built by Consul Fla- tine one of Filigare, near Monghidoro. Built on “la minio in 187 BC, the road links Bologna and the wishes of Grand Duke Leopoldo II, the ba Arezzo and served to connect Rome as quic- ancient Customs House is still surprisingly co kly as possible to the new colonies which magnificent. The Customs Houses survived ar were being created along the Via Emilia. Its until 1859, when, at Villa Loup near Loiano, it an route along the ridge between the Idice, was decided to abolish all duty barriers in anti- st Quaderna and upper-Sillaro valleys, as well as cipation of the imminent Union of Italy (1861). of having splendid views of uncontaminated lan- M dscape, passes through places of great milita- History and Culture ry, historical and cultural importance. The The Futa and the Grand Tour In road took on greater relevance in the Middle Just as the pilgrimages of the various Jubi- Ch Ages: from 1200 onwards, the most ancient lees marked the history of the Via Toscana in stretch of the Via Francigena, the Cisa, beca- in the Middle Ages, so the passage through pi me less important and pilgrims from Nor- the Apennines became fundamental to the of thern Europe, heading for Rome, preferred to Grand Tour which, from the 16th to 19th cen- alt travel along the Via Emilia to Bologna and tury, saw legions of young aristocrats and then join the roads which followed the an- artists visit our nation. Culture, adventure A cient Flaminia Minore. The most famous is the and majestic landscapes were the attrac- m Via dello Stale or Via degli Dei (Route of the tions which led travellers to face the dan- ex Gods), which still today links Bologna and Flo- gers involved. On their return to their (a rence in a series of trails. various European countries, they recoun- St ted the fear and emotions of travelling a- cl The Futa long the Bologna-Florence stretch in either lo The “Strada della Futa”, known to the Bolo- direction. Montaigne (1580), Goethe (1786), gnese as Via Toscana and to the Tuscans as Via Casanova (1761), the Marquis de Sade (1776), Th Bolognese, follows the Savena Valley and Stendhal (1811 and 1817), Sir Walter Scott of then rises along the ridge between the Savena and Emperor Frederick of Russia are only a w and Idice to the Raticosa Pass. From there it few of the illustrious travellers who wrote ta reaches the Futa Pass and then Flo-rence. As their impressions of the Futa Pass in their Ap far back as the 14th century, a similar trail was diaries. These writings are a rich testimony du chosen by the Bologna City Council as the to episodes which also underline the per- th official road to Tuscany. This success was con- sonalities of the various characters. In 1811, firmed on the occasion of the 1300 Jubilee, Stendhal visited Pianoro, Loiano and Mon- Ca when the Via Toscana was recommended to ghidoro and wrote: “Two Frenchmen travel- Ph pilgrims journeying to Rome, since it was con- ling in a good coach with an intelligent ser- sidered safer than the others and moreover, vant can transport the pleasures of a dra- was equipped with inns, hospices, parish wing room into the Apennines, but they churches and monasteries, all fundamental will not enjoy the Apennines as I do, travel- for travellers. In 1759, the Grand Duke of Tu- ling alone in an open carriage”. Both De scany, Francesco di Lorena, achieved his aim Montagne and Goethe, almost two centu- of improving the ancient road by building a ries apart, in their Voyages in Italy (1580 the more efficient means of communication bet- former and 1786 the latter) passed through ween Florence and Bologna. The Grand Duke’s Loiano and Monghidoro. Many other more project had to overcome the opposition of or less famous travellers followed them. the Papacy, which would have preferred the Then progress and the inventions of steam, main link between Rome and its northern electric and internal combustion engines possessions not to leave the pontifical terri- changed the world, the ways of travelling tories, passing instead through the Marches. and so the most important roads changed. 118
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 9 Pianoro 8th Pianoro is the first town you reach travelling Events ut up the Futa highway. The centre was drastical- The Bologna-Raticosa Time Trials e- ly damaged in the Second World War, so Motoring fans should not miss the histori- n- much so that Pietro Nenni described it as the cal “Bologna-Raticosa Time Trials”, 603 on “largest and saddest example of Nazi-fascist bends against the clock in a race for clas- he barbarity”. Following the devastation and the sic cars. Started in 1950, it was for years ly consequent post-war reconstruction, there one of the most difficult time trials in ed are now two distinct parts - Pianoro Nuovo Italy, for distance second only to the it and Pianoro Vecchio. However, the territory Parma-Berceto. Occasionally staged until ti- still has numerous examples of the thousands 1969, the Bologna-Raticosa was reintrodu- of years of history here, in particular from the ced in 2001 on the road between Pianoro Middle ages. Vecchio and Livergnano. Since then, it has taken place every year. In Pianoro Vecchio, it is worth visiting the Info: www.velocitaraticosa.it - Church of San Giacomo Maggiore, restored a in the 18th century, together with a hospice for h pilgrims which can be traced back to the end Nature e of the 12th century. Inside there is a notable The Paleotto Park - altar piece from the School of the Francia. The Paleotto Park stretches along the d banks of the Savena on gently sloping land e A kilometre before Pianoro Vecchio, there is a in the territories of Rastignano (Pianoro), - medieval tower, the Torre Lùpari, a precious Sasso Marconi, San Lazzaro di Savena and - example of the art of the “Maestri comacini” Bologna. The name comes from an ancient r (an ancient Guild of Master-builders and noble Bolognese family and its history has - Stonemasons - page 71), which was later en- been linked since the Middle Ages to an - closed in a 15th-century building with double- ancient mill which used to exist nearby, r loggia. and which is still recalled today in the na- ), me of a local area, Molino del Paleotto. ), The village of Livergnano has the peculiarity There is a notable ancient stone bridge t of a series of houses built deep into the rock, providing a link to the old road for Sant’An- a with only their façades external. A fundamen- drea di Sesto. e tal crossroads between the low and high r Apennines, it was the site of violent clashes y during the Second World War - this was one of Museums - the main areas of the Gothic Line (page 160). “WINTER LINE” MUSEUM , via della Chiesa, 4 - Livergnano - Calanchi (gullies) 40066 Pianoro (BO) - Tel. 380.5074820 - Photo by Provincia di Bologna Dug at the base of the Pliocene Foothills - above Livergnano, the museum lies in a - cave where there was an air-raid shelter y during the Second World War. It collects - soldiers’ objects of the 65th German Di- e vision and 91st Division of the 361st USA - Infantry, found along trenches and shelters e which still today can be seen in the coun- h tryside around Pianoro. Here, in the winter e between 1944 and 1945, the two opposing . armies blocked passage to each other. , s g . 119
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 0 Along the Zena Valley, inside the Regional Park Nature of Bolognese Gypsums and Abbadessa The Pian di Macina Amphibian Centre is Gullies (page 137), about 15 kilometres from a European conservation project for spe- Pianoro, there is Monte delle Formiche (Mount cies of amphibians which are rare or in of the Ants), with its highly original Sanctuary. ranger of extinction, promoted and finan- ced by the Province of Bologna and the History and Culture Pianoro Town Council. In the centre’s Monte delle Formiche (Mount of the Ants) is a tanks and humid zones, you can discover rocky crag dominating the Idice and Zena strange animals such as the Spectacled Valleys. From its summit, there is an incredible Salamander, the Alpine Newt and the view which, on particularly clear mornings, goes Apennine Yellow-bellied Howler, whose from the Adriatic coast to the foothills of the name refers to the sounds made by the Alps near Verona. The name of the mount males in the mating season. Workshops comes from a very particular natural phenome- and educational meetings are organized. non: every year, in early September, swarms of Info: Anfibi, Rettili e Territorio Onlus flying ants reach the summit for their nuptial Tel. 051.774253 www.centroanfibi.it flight, then die around the Sanctuary of Santa Maria di Zena. Since 1400, the Sanctuary has been known as “Santa Maria Formicarum”, proof Nature that the phenomenon already occurred then. The Zena Valley As Even today, on occasion of the Festival of the The Zena is a river which starts in the ter- Ph Madonna, the ants are collected, blessed and ritory of Loiano and ends its tortuous given out to the faithful: according to popular journey in the River Idice, in San Lazzaro di To belief, they have therapeutic properties. Savena. Near Loiano, in Quinzano, it pas- to ses over a beautiful 30-metre-high water- Un fall, which precipitates into a woody km In the direction of Monte delle Formiche, gorge. The Zena valley has a road along there is the Castle of Zena, which belonged the valley-bottom, the first few kilome- S to the Countess of Canossa. Of medieval ori- tres of which are the provincial road S.P.16 O gins, its architecture today shows element “Val di Zena”, then becoming smaller roads o from the 14th and 17th centuries. Another part for Pianoro and Monterenzio. With its g of the castle is a nearby tower, the Torre bucolic appearance, the valley alternates I dell’Erede (14th century), which being on higher between gentle meadow and wood-cove- 1 ground, served as a lookout. red hills and the occasional gypsum, in a n largely uncontaminated landscape of D Towards the west, the stark, imposing peak great naturalistic and historical interest. d of Monte Adone, dominating the ridge of Apart from the Etruscan-Celtic remains t the watershed between the Savena, Setta found on Monte Bibele, on the river banks f and Reno, is the highest point of the there is the Castle of Zena. With the d Pliocene Foothills (page 60). Pliocene Foothills running along one side, L In Pian di Macina, there is the Centro Anfibi the valley contains the Regional Park of l (Amphibian Centre), where you can encounter Bolognese Gypsums and Abbadessa f rare species of amphibians from the Apennines. Gullies. About 2 kilometres upstream I from the confluence with the River Idice, o Museums just after entering the territory of San T THE “CIVILTÀ DEI MESTIERI” MUSEUM Lazzaro di Savena, near the left bank of u Via del Gualando, 2 - 40066 Pianoro (BO) the Zena, there is a famous cave, the Comune di Pianoro - Tel. 051.6529105 Grotta del Farneto, in which important Tuttoservizi s.p.a. - Tel. 051.6555132 proof of human presence dating back to The “Artisan Culture” Museum has collected the Neolithic period was discovered. numerous craftwork tools. Created as a genui- ne informative workshop, it is divided into dif- ferent sections: rural house, cellar, stables, agri- Pianoro is a member of the “National Asso- cultural work, craftwork, weights and measures. ciation of Wine Cities”. Events Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): in October C’era una volta (Once upon a time): October and in November Festival of Santa Maria Assunta: 15th august MARKET DAY: Wednesday Hi 120
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a s - n Loiano - e s r d e e e s Astronomical Observatory - Photo by Provincia di Bologna Loiano is situated on the spur separating the s Idice and Savena Valleys and, apart from the i To justify a visit to Loiano, it would be enough observatory, there is no lack of historical and - to mention the astronomical observatory of the artistic points of interest. The first is the - University of Bologna, along the Futa highway, 2 Church of San Giacomo and Santa Marghe- y kms after Loiano towards Monghidoro. rita, built by the Augustinians in the 14th cen- g tury. Inside there is a painting by Calvaert and - Science and Technique: Park of the Stars the Madonna del Carmine by Angelo Piò. In 6 On Monte Orzale, there is the Loiano Station the town centre, there are still traces of the s of the Astronomical Observatory of Bolo- 15th-century porticos which were part of its s gna, in a structure belonging to the National original character. s Institute of Astrophysics. Inaugurated on the - 15th November 1936, its biggest telescope is The Corona inn is famous, being the place a named after the astronomer Giovanni where, in the 16th century, the annexation of f Domenico Cassini, designer of the great sun- Cento to Ferrara was negotiated, and where t. dial of San Petronio in Bologna. The observa- on the 21st October 1786, Goethe stayed en s tory of Loiano is the second biggest in Italy route to Florence. s for the dimension of the telescope (152 cm in e diameter). Thanks to a collaboration with the Among the most characteristic settlements in , Loiano Town Council and the Province of Bo- the territory is Anconella, an ancient 16th-cen- f logna, the observatory is open to the public tury village. The village develops around a a for evening visits from April to September. particular construction with porticos, a rare m Info and bookings: Loiano Library example in the Apennines, which was once a , on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 10-12am. hospice for pilgrims. Inside you can admire a n Tel. 051.6543617 beautiful fireplace with the coat-of-arms of f urp@comune.loiano.bologna.it the noble Bentivoglio family. In the area it is e also still possible to see the so-called “buse t nelle lastre”, caves dug into the sandstone, o once used as inhabitations and store rooms, and during wartime as shelters. Along the provincial road from Loiano to o- Quinzano, on a high plain there is the Parish Church of Scanello dedicated to San Giovan- ni Battista, which conserves a painting attri- buted to Passerotti and two painting from the School of Carracci. Nearby, in Cà di Priami, r you can admire the main mountains of the Idice and Savena Valleys, with the upper- Apennines on one side, and the hills which Hills around Loiano - Photo by Provincia di Bologna frame Bologna on the other. 121
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a Near Scanello, there is Villa Loup, which owes Nature its name to the Swiss gentleman who, marrying The Gardens of Casoncello a member of the Ghisilieri family, received the Via Scascoli, 75 - Loiano (BO) residence as part of the dowry. Pope Pious VII Tel. 051.928100/928281 stayed here in 1805, after meeting Napoleon in Born from the restoration of an ancient far- Paris, but it became famous in the Risorgimento mhouse and open to the public since 1996, for the “Convegno di Scanello”. Here on the 28th the Gardens of Casoncello are today consi- September 1859, the representatives of Tuscany, dered an excellent example of a “natural Romagna, Modena and Parma negotiated the garden” where the mark of nature and that An abolition of custom duties between their states of mankind exist in harmony and where the bo and the adoption of a single currency, in antici- multiplicity of animal and vegetable life are to pation of the Union of Italy. respected and favoured. It has an unusual m appearance, rich in ornamental plants and ex From the centre of Quinzano, there is a road spontaneous flora: in the space of a single fro which, winding through the atmospheric hectare there are more than a thousand ZenaValley, reaches the archaeological site species which, freely associated in “harmo- In of Monte Bibele (page 125). nious disorder”, create an enchanting atmo- st sphere. The guided visits lead to the disco- na The village of Scascoli is one of the most very of this enormous "green book" through by enchanting, due to its position. The Church of various "vegetable situations": mixed mea- Ra Saints Stefano and Martino was rebuilt after dow, vegetable garden, rockery, wet zone, w the Second World War: for the façade, the san- wood-garden, herb-garden, flowering bor- th dstone blocks from the destroyed Church of ders, perennial grass borders, orchard, up San Ansano di Brento were used, while the high mixed hedges, with an approach that is not altar was made by melting down the brass car- merely visual, but involves all the other sen- C tridge cases of the American artillery. ses. A particular element of the visit is in T Near Scascoli, we find the interesting rural fact the olfactory one, in which different A building called the Torre, a typical example of and unusual smells are offered from flo- m 15th-century building by the Maestri comacini wers, leaves, bark and even roots. The R (an ancient Guild of Master-builders and Gardens of Casoncello can only be visited t Stonemasons) (page 71). by booking with guided visits. f Continuing along the road which descends C towards the Savena, we reach the majestic t Gorges of Scascoli, above the course of the river. Events m Festa della Batdura (Threshing Festival), A farming show, exhibition of machines and f tools for threshing grain: July t Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): October l and November i Market of Santa Lucia: December d w Scascoli o Chestnuts Festival: October P f MARKET DAY: Sunday h e Gardens of Casoncello - Private archive M s h ( Th st so st of m tu 122
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 3 Monghidoro - 6, - l t An ancient pontifical Customs House on the Museums e border with Tuscany, Monghidoro also used MUSEUM OF APENNINE FARMING e to be called Scaricalasino (“Unload-the- CULTURE l mule”), since it was necessary to check the Via Provinciale, 13 - Piamaggio 40063 d exhausted animals’ loads after the climb Monghidoro (BO) - Tel. 051.6555132 - Fax e from Roncastaldo. 051-6552268 - turismo@tuttoservizispa.it d The museum reconstructs the working and - In the town centre, the cloisters of La Ci- day-to-day aspects of past rural life of the - sterna are all that remain of the ancient Mo- Apennines. Alternated with spaces dedica- - nastery of San Michele ad Alpes, built in 1528 ted to ancient jobs (carpentry, the elabora- h by converting the Palazzo di Armaciotto dei tion of wool and straw, wine production), - Ramazzotti, donated to the Olivetani order, there are some domestic spaces: the kit- e, who ran it until 1797. Today the cloisters are chen, the bedroom, a school room, sta- - the splendid setting for events which liven bles, and finally, an aristocratic corner. , up the town in summer. There is also a unique 1:3-scale reconstruc- t tion of a perfectly-working water mill. - Culture and Famous Names Opening times: in winter, Sunday 3-6pm; in n The Ramazzotto summer, Saturday 4-7pm, Sunday 10-12am t Armaciotto dei Ramazzotti, called the Ra- and 4-7pm. - mazzotto, is a typical figure of the Italian Free entrance (donations welcome). e Renaissance. Born in Scaricalasino in 1444, d the Ramazzotto took up arms and built his MONGHIDORO PARISH MUSEUM future battle by battle. Becoming a Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Captain, he first served Cesare Borgia, Via Garibaldi, 37 - 40063 Monghidoro (BO) then various Popes among whom Cle- Tel. 051.6555539 mente VII dei Medici, his great protector. This 19th-century parish church houses a , As compensation, he received ever-larger small collection of sacred art: devotional d feudal territories in the Apennines and and liturgical objects and vestments. There the title of Count. Ramazzotto became is also a notable painting by Burrini from lord of his own personal state, which 1685, showing Saints Petronio and Dionigi. included an impregnable fort, the Rocca Opening times: Sunday and public holi- di Tossignano, in the Santerno Valley, days; by request on weekdays. which he fortified even further. The re- Free entrance. organisation of the lands of Romagna by Paolo III Farnese threw the survival of his feud into crisis, and after various mishaps, he finally surrendered in 1537. He died in exile in Tuscany, but in the Church of San Michele in Bosco in Bologna, there is the splendid marble arch commissioned by him to the sculptor Alfonso Lombardi (1531-1533). The Sentiero dei Pilastrini is a trail which starts from the county town and takes in some typical villages, following ten small stone pillars, some rebuilt, direct evidence of the sacred element so pervasive in the La Cisterna mountain peasant culture up to the 19th cen- Photo by Comune di Monghidoro tury. 123
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a The whole area is also of great natural the macaroni with ragù washed down with worth, in particular the Park, “La Martina”, too much wine, the great seducer wrote that and the Alpe of Monghidoro. he was unable to “partake” of the young woman, a certain Corticelli, who was ac- Nature companying him. “La Martina” Provincial Park In the upper-Idice Valley, the Park offers The singer Gianni Morandi maintains very the ideal environment for walks in the close links with his birthplace, Monghidoro. woods and open-air picnics. Created by Th the Province of Bologna in 1972, in an area Beyond Monghidoro, there is the German w of about 155 hectares, it belongs to the Cemetery of the Futa, in Tuscan territory, la Monghidoro Town Council. This area was created by the architect Oesterlen and the tim once covered with meadows and cultiva- landscape artists Rossow and Bournot. Built Bi ted fields, with the occasional oak wood; in sandstone, it has more than 30,000 graves Et then in the Twenties, it was reforested of fallen soldiers from the Gothic Line (page in with conifers such as Black Pine, Wood- 160) in the Second World War. In summer, it un land Pine, Silver Fir and Lawson’s Cypress. lends its highly evocative setting to the sta- Fa An informative trail gives an insight into ging of classical Greek tragedies. co the natural aspects of the Apennines and lat the widespread network of well-signpo- sted paths makes the park a useful base M for longer excursions in the Apennines, in N particular the connection between the P Futa Pass and the Grande Escursione a Apennine (G.E.A.). Within the Park, there B is an equipped campsite, a bar and an a educational hall. i r The Alpe of Monghidoro is a very intere- d sting natural area extending above the Fu- Triton’s Park o ta state highway SS 65, just after the area of Photo by Comune di Monghidoro t Ca’ del Costa, about 2 kms from Monghi- T doro. Secondary roads and well-sign-po- Sport and Active Tourism M sted trails make the Alpe easily accessible. Tarzaning - Adventure Park V At an altitude of 800-1200 metres, it is In the heart of the Bolognese Apennines, t covered with oak and chestnut woods in Monghidoro is happy to host anyone m the lower band, beech woods in the higher wishing to emulate Tartan, thanks to O one, and is full of springs. Jays, buzzards, Triton’s Park (Newt Park), an acrobatic park b woodpeckers and owls can be seen, as well in the greenery of Monte Oggioli. At an alti- S as squirrels, dormice and hares. Less easy to tude of about 1,000 metres, the park has 3 spot, but not impossible, particularly at various structures such as ropes, trapezes, d dawn and dusk, there are fallow and roe net tunnels, fixed and swinging walkways. a deer, wild boar, and foxes. From the highest There are six routes, three for adults and b point of the Alpe, Monte Oggioli (1290 three for children, of varying levels of diffi- t mts), on a clear day you can admire a view culty at a maximum height of 7 metres that stretches from the foothills of the above the ground. Triton’s Park also offers a Alps in Veneto to the Adriatic. picnic area equipped with barbecues and a Info: Tuttoservizi s.p.a. - Tel 051.6555132 spectacular little lake with various species turismo@tuttoservizispa.it of fish and some newts. Open all year. Info: Tuttoservizi s.p.a. - Tel 051.6555132 turismo@tuttoservizispa.it Like other places in the valley, Monghidoro has also been recalled in the travel diaries of more and less well-known characters who Events have passed through. There is the strange Festival of Saints Pietro e Paolo: June story of Giacomo Casanova, who, having Festival of San Michele: September left Florence at eight in the evening, arrived Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): tra October in Scaricalasino in the middle of the night and November and even though he made them prepare “a bed which astounded the host, since making MARKET DAY: Thursday it meant using four others”, maybe due to 124
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 5 th at ng Monterenzio c- ry o. The territory of Monterenzio stretches bet- an ween the green valleys of the Idice and Sil- ry, laro, an area that has been inhabited since he time immemorial: on the massif of Monte lt Bibele (towards Loiano), the remains of an es Etruscan-Celtic village have been found, built ge in the 4th century BC. The copious evidence it uncovered, which can be seen at the “Luigi a- Fantini” Archaeological Museum, indicates the contemporaneous presence of the two popu- lations. Museums Named after the pioneer of Bolognese Prehistoric research, the museum was created after the discovery in 1978 of the Monte Bibele Etruscan-Celtic village. It offers visitors a clear picture of the ancient inhabitation and its complex of sepulchres, through numerous relics, with illustrative panels, photographs, drawings, maps, plans, reconstructions of the original appearance and how to use some of the tools: the vertical frame, hoes and sickles. THE “LUIGI FANTINI” ARCHAEOLOGICAL Rebuilding of a Celtic mut with original objects MUSEUM Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Vanes Cavazza Via del Museo, 2 - 40050 Monterenzio (BO) , tel. 051.929766 - Fax 051.929766 History and Culture e museomonterenzio@yahoo.it The Celts o Opening times: in summer (April-Septem- Migrating from the north in the 4th century k ber), Tuesday-Friday 9am-1pm; Saturday, BC, the Celts settled in Gallia Cisalpina, a - Sunday and public holidays 9am-1pm and region between the Alps and Apennines. s 3-6pm; in winter (October-March), Satur- Among the numerous tribes to come down , day, Sunday and public holidays 9am-1pm into Italy, the Gauls Boi settled in the . and 3-6pm, weekdays subject to prior Bolognese area, from which it is said the d booking. Tickets: € 3.00; free entrance on name Bologna derives. After more than - the first Sunday of the month. 2000 years, traces of their presence can still s be found, not only in museums and archa- a eological sites, but also in many aspects of a the local culture, starting with the language. s Contemporary Bolognese dialect, even though largely derived from Latin, still has a consistent Celtic element. Of similarly Celtic origins are practices such as pig-far- ming and the elaboration of pork, so impor- tant to the cooking of the territory. The peaceful co-existence and the ethnic and cultural mixing between Etruscans and Celts, confirmed by the finding of the villa- r ge on Monte Bibele, created a new civilisa- tion in the area, defined as “Etruscan-Celtic”. Bronze mirror Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Vanes Cavazza 125
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 6 Then it was the turn of the Romans, who Still in the territory of Monterenzio, in the Sillaro created the copper mines of Bisano, active Valley, 15 kms from the Via Emilia, there is an up to modern times. Bisano is today a typical important spa-centre deep in the countryside. village of medieval origins, near which there is Casa Cella, a noble house which in the 15th Spas & wellness century belonged to Giacomo di Gottifredo, Health Spa and Aqua Park and which still conserves the original archi- Immersed in the calm of a large natural tectural characteristics. amphitheatre, the “Villaggio della Salute più” is an oasis of relaxation, sport, cultu- The strategic importance of the situation, re and wellness. With its thermal systems astride the two valleys, led it to be chosen for and numerous services for treatment and a castle in the Middle Ages, belonging to physical therapy, the centre, denominated Queen Matilde of Canossa, later devastated “Terme dell’Agriturismo”, is open all year. by Barbarossa’s troops. Even today there is still It looks over the valley and has spa pools a lot of evidence of the period. The most which can be both covered and open-air. notable can be found in the village of The adjoining summer complex of the Scaruglio, between Monterenzio vecchia and Aqua Park has 14 pools, each with diffe- Monterenzio nuova - an imposing 13th-century rent health and wellness properties. building called the “Torre”: it is worth noting Enriching the offer is Bimbolandia, the the original openings, a façade with three off- first spa park created specifically for chil- set portals, a slit and viewing-flap. dren, and the Oasis of Zello, where natu- Heading down towards the Idice, we come to rists can find the ideal environment for the village of Villa di Cassano, where there complete heliotherapy. Il V are two tower-houses connected by architra- Villaggio della Salute Più ves and portals decorated with an eight-poin- Via Sillaro, 6 - 40050 Monterenzio (BO) - Tel. H ted star. 051.929791 www.villaggiodellasalutepiu.it L I Sport and Active Tourism h The Traversata delle Cinque Valli Bolo- f gnesi (Crossing of the Five Bolognese m Valleys) winds along the Pliocene Foothills s (page 60) reaching the most interesting vil- h lages of the Bolognese mid-Apennines, a from Rocca di Badolo with its climbing face, v to Monte Adone with beautiful sandstone o towers, from Livergnano with its War m Museum, to Monte delle Formiche (page p 120). We close the crossing in Monterenzio, r Celt and Etruscan land. You can do this trek- t king on foot or cycling in two days. n Info: Sistema Turistico Valli Bolognesi g www.vallibolognesi.it a B Crossing of the Five Bolognese Valleys - Monte Adone Aqua Park of the Villaggio della Salute Più S Photo by Comunità Montana Cinque Valli Bolognesi Private archive A m i t d t E F p C c C p 126
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 7 ro an l e - s d d . s . e - . e - - r Il Villaggio della Salute Più - Private archive . History and Culture nist. In Monghidoro, in perfect working order La Via dei Mulini (Water Mill Route) and open to visits, there is the Mulino del In the Savena and Idice Valleys, water mills Mazzone from 1785, with its ample portico, have for centuries been the reference point and, on request, the Mulino di Ca’ di for the rural econo- Guglielmo from 1776. my. Some mills are In the territory of San still working, others Benedetto Val di have been restored Sambro, there is the and turned into pri- Molino di Federico, vate homes, while in perfect working of others there re- order and open to mains no more than visits, and two lovely place names. The mills near the Lake of river water drove Castel dell’Alpi. the heavy millsto- These are only a few nes, grinding the examples: many other grain, chestnuts and even walnuts, extracting mills are dotted along the rivers which flow an oil used both for food and lighting. through these valleys. Various initiatives have Between Monzuno and Monghidoro, in the grown up around them, including gastrono- Più Savena Valley, a spectacular path leads to the mical ones, which lead visitors on a journey ve Allocco Mill, perhaps the best known and of rediscovery. most representative of the whole area, built in the 19th century on a pre-existing 16th-cen- Info: Tuttoservizi s.p.a. tury structure. Also interesting is the Mulino Via Matteotti, 1 - 40063 Monghidoro (BO) della Valle, where Melchiade Benni alterna- Tel. 051.6555132 - Fax 051.6552268 ted his work as a miller with the art of violi- turismo@tuttoservizispa.it Events Bisano Flower Fair, general market and sale of Bisano Festival, market, gastronomic stalls, plants and flowers: April musical shows: end of July Celtic Festival, Festival of Celtic culture and customs with dancing and food: September MARKET DAY: Sunday Chestnut Fair, Sale of chestnuts and polenta: October 127
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 8 Monzuno Th un an (p an ha se di Monzuno is a small centre in the Apennines, Along this trail, not far from Monzuno, there is to whose name refers to Juno (Mons Junonis) and Monte Venere, a 996-metre summit softened by th to the sacred aspect of the site since ancient woods and pastureland, on which it is said there of times. At the end of the 15th century, the terri- used to be a temple dedicated to the Goddess se tory of Monzuno came into the possession of of love. The Hospice, about a kilometre from an Giovanni II Bentivoglio, Lord of Bologna. Monzuno, however, was built around the year ce The present inhabitation is modern, but the 1000 to offer hospitality to pilgrims bound for gi Church of San Giovanni Evangelista, resto- Rome. In the period around the Second World of red in 1891, has a surprising Baroque interior. War, Nino Bertocchi, an important Bolognese tu painter and art critic, stayed here. Since then, tu The greatest value of Monzuno is that it overlo- Monzuno has become the destination of nume- (p oks a stunning valley, rich in natural and histori- rous other artists, such as Giacomelli and Manzù. Ca cal beauty, enhanced by Trekking Bologna- tu Florence and by the re-discovery of the Via Sport and Active Tourism m degli Dei (Route of the Gods) (page 131), the medieval pilgrims’ route, also called the “Via dello Stale” which linked Bologna to Florence. History and Culture The County of Bentivoglio “100 bushels of wheat, 10 pairs of capons, 10 goats, 10 chickens and an ample collec- Trekking from Bologna to Florence G tion of cheeses: this was the annual rent Over the centuries, various roads have pas- M for the territory of Monzuno in 1471. At sed over the mountain range, among which a that time the village, togheter with the Flaminia Minore, the Via Cassìola, the Via V Scascoli and Ripoli, sold or donated its Francesca della Sambuca, the Via dello Stale T farm produce to the Lord of Bologna, or Via degli Dei and the Via Montanara. In i Giovanni Bentivoglio, in return for the any case, at the centre of these routes were w right to permanent settlement on the the two great world-famous cities of i land. This agreement exempted the villa- Bologna and Florence. Based on historic rou- I ges from other taxes to the city of tes, there is the trekking itinerary from t Bologna. Justice was administered by Bologna to Florence, well sign-posted and a emissaries appointed by Bentivoglio.” divided into 7 sections which can be follo- f Renzo Renzi wed by bicycle, on foot or on horseback. F From the ancient roads to new trails betwe- w en the two ancient cities on opposite sides b of the Apennines, this is a new proposal for t tourism which respects the environment, s allowing genuine contact with nature and an m understanding of the cultural and gastrono- n mic aspects of Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany. i The “Bologna-Florence” trail is illustrated by g the guide “Voyage in Italy - Trekking in the o footsteps of De Montaigne and Goethe S across the Alps (via Spluga) and Apennines T (Bologna-Florence)” and is accompanied by b tourist packages. t Info and bookings: Tuttoservizi s.p.a. q Via Matteotti, 1 - 40063 Monghidoro (BO) t Tel. 051.6555132 - Fax 051.6552268 turismo@tuttoservizispa.it Giovanni II Bentivoglio www.vallibolognesi.it Photo by Provincia di Bologna 128
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 9 The most interesting site in the area is In Brento, there is the Grotta delle Fate (Cave of undoubtedly Montorio, the seat of an the Fairies), a tectonic cave which owes its name ancient, vast ecclesiastical district. The Pieve to legends which tell of treasures and myste- (parish) of Montorio, dedicated to San Pietro rious apparitions of ethereal feminine figures and containing notable sacred ornaments, suspended in the void over the Savena valley- had a good 42 parish churches and was bottom below the mountain summit. An expla- second only to that of Monteveglio. A short nation may lie in the strong currents of air inside distance from the town, there is an imposing the cave, which in certain atmospheric condi- is tower, the Torre di Montorio, dominating tions led to the expulsion of clouds of vapour. by the Setta and Sambro Valleys from the peak re of a rocky crag. The original building, altered Sport and Active Tourism ss several times, dates back to the 12th century The “Molino del Pero” Golf Club m and is next to a second building from the 16th Via Molino del Pero, 323 - 40036 Monzuno (BO) ar century. The tower still has traces of the ori- Tel. 051.770506 - molino.golf@tin.it or ginal Guelph battlements with the addition www.molinodelpero.it ld of Ghibelline battlements from the 19th cen- Created in 1991, it proposes a highly techni- se tury. In the Tower, in the early of the 14th cen- cal course, extremely enjoyable even for n, tury, the Count Mostarda da Panico lived the most expert. The ascent to the first e- (page 63). Also near Montorio, there is the holes, rising steeply from the Savena Valley, zù. Castello d’Elle, dating back to the 14th cen- has often been mentioned in international tury, and the 18th-century Oratory of San Ma- magazines as “The stairway to heaven”. molo. Technical Data: 18 holes, 300 mts a.s.l. Gastronomy and Wine - MONTAGNAMICA h and THE ROUTE OF THE BREAD a Via Casaglia, 4 - 40036 Monzuno (BO) e Tel. 051.6773328 - Fax 051.6770144 n info@montagnamica.it Mountain Bread - Photo by Diateca Agricoltura e www.montagnamica.it della Regione Emilia-Romagna - Fabrizio Dell’Aquila f info@laviadelpane.it - In the Bolognese Apennines, you can find Remarkable is also borgo Polverara, that m the products of the “MontagnAmica bre- shows two 16th century fortified buldings. Part d adbasket”: meat, salami, cheese, forest of the Monzuno territory, it is included in the - fruit, honey, wine and baking produce. Regional Historical Park of Monte Sole . Fragrant from the oven and smelling of (page 64). - wood smoke, the tasty local mountain s bread, with its high quality and its tradi- Events r tional and cultural value, has become Village Festival: April , symbolic of the typical flavours of these MontagnaAperta (Open Mountains): n mountain lands. This bread is the protago- country festival based on bread and typical - nist of a tourist-cultural-gastronomical products from the Bolognese Apennines. y. itinerary - The Bread Route of the Bolo- Various events and entertainment, open- y gnese Mountains - covering the territory air sport, folk music and traditional dan- e of the Bolognese Valleys of the Idice, cing, June e Savena and Setta. Festival of San Luigi: August s The basic idea is to recover and valorise Festival of Monte Venere: August y biological cereal-farming, so common in Chestnut Festival: October the Bolognese Apennine area, through the Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): October and qualification of the entire process, from November the field to the table. MARKET DAY: Wednesday in Vado 129
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 30 San Benedetto Val di Sambro Ha Sa po ch ch at pe sin Taking its name from an ancient Benedictine In Ripoli, it is worth having a look at the di abbey, San Benedetto Val di Sambro comes Sanctuary of the Beata Vergine di Serra from the fusion of two important communi- (1616), in a panoramic position at the con- A ties held by the noble families of the de’ fluence of the Brasimone and Setta Valleys. ac Bianchi, the Counts of Piano, and Rossi di ni San Secondo, feudal lords of Poggio. Not far from there is the railway station of Fo San Benedetto Val di Sambro, whose name is ve Nature is the main attraction of the area, from impressed in the Italian memory for the two Sa the woods of Val Serena and Pian di Balestra tragic terrorist attacks which took place N to the notable Lake of Castel dell’Alpi, 7 kms there in 1974 on the Italicus train and ten of from the town. The lake is an ideal spot for a years later on the Rapido 904 train: in total 27 M trip: originating in 1951 from a landslide which dead and about 150 wounded. In the station, fa blocked the course of the Savena, its banks there is the monument to the Italicus by the w are today used for fishing, sunbathing and sculptor Walter Veronesi, and a commemo- is having picnics. It is also possible to visit two rative plaque in memory of the victims. on ancient mills, each with a grindstone and pr large barrels to collect the river water coming History and Culture re down from Monte Oggioli. The “Direttissima” and the “Great Tunnel th of the Apennines” Science and Technique The “Direttissima” can be defined as the first Fr The Monte Galletto Wind-Power Park high-speed rail link between Bologna and 16 In 1998, in the territory of San Benedetto Florence. Planned at the turn of the 20th cen- sla Val di Sembro, the first wind-power park in tury, it was at the time a highly advanced an Northern Italy was set up. The turbines of piece of engineering work. In fact, creating Bo the Monte Galletto Wind-Power Park the new line meant excavating the longest produce clean energy and contribute signi- tunnel in Italy, the “Great Tunnel of the ficantly to the regional energy require- Apennines”: 18.5 kilometres in a straight line. ments. To discover the secrets of this new Work started in 1920 and on the 22nd April clean energy production system and for 1934, the first trains ran along the stretch. guided visits to the Park, contact the IAT Bologna and Florence had never been so (Tourist Office) of Monghidoro. close. The cost in human lives for the con- struction of the “Direttissima” was heavy: 97 workers, of which 65 just for the creation of But the territory’s history is also of great arti- the Great Tunnel. stic value. We can start in the centre of Pian del Voglio, with its pretty, ancient village centre and Palazzo Comitale with a 15th-century tower, which belonged to the Counts of de’ Bianchi, and where there are still beautiful panelled ceilings and a late-16th-century fire- place. In the chapel adjoining the tower, it is worth noting the tombstone of the de’ Bianchi, dated 1526. The building hosted the Medici during their exile from Florence and was the residence of Cardinal Lambertini, later to become Pope Benedict XIV. In Mon- teacuto Vallese, the Palazzo di Poggio Su- Monte Galletto wind-power Park vizzano is a majestic 16th-century building Photo by Comune di San Benedetto Val di Sambro with the coat-of-arms of the Counts of de’ Bianchi on an architrave, dated 1525. 130
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 3 Halfway down the left-hand side of the Sport and Active Tourism Sambro Valley, S. Andrea stands directly op- The Via degli Dei, (Route of the Gods), a posite San Benedetto, which can also be rea- trail which goes from Bàdolo and Bologna ched on foot along a steep path. In the to Fiesole and Florence in four sections, church, there is a painting, the Visitazione, crosses the central valleys of the Bolognese attributed to Guido Reni. The climb to the Apennines as far as the Futa Pass. The route peak of Monte Armato is worth the effort, passes Monte Adone, Monzuno, Monte since there is a wide view over the surroun- Venere and Madonna dei Fornelli (San he ding valleys. Benedetto Val di Sambro). From the names ra of these mounts, the origins of the name of n- A crossroads for naturalistic outings and the route becomes clear, evoking sacred s. access to the Bologna-Florence trans-Apen- sites dating back to time immemorial. nine passes, the area of Madonna dei Evidence of this is an earthenware fragment of Fornelli owes its name to the “fornelli” (sto- found in the Setta Valley with an inscription is ves) of the charcoal-burners and to the dedicated to “Iuppiter Appenninus”, the wo Sanctuary dedicated to the Madonna della Apennine Jupiter of the Celts of Liguria. The ce Neve. Built in 1638 as an ex voto for the end Via degli Dei partially follows the ancient en of the Plague, also described by Alessandro Via dello Stale, in use since the Middle ages, 27 Manzoni in Promessi Sposi, the apse and whose name comes from a linguistic tran- n, façade of the Sanctuary were restored bet- sformation of “Ospedale”, referring to the he ween the 19th and 20th centuries. Inside there Benedictine Hospice of San Salvatore which o- is a notable portrait of the Madonna in oil was built here to offer shelter to travellers. on copper. Every year, the icon is carried in a Along the path it is possible to tread the procession to Castel dell’Alpi, where it ancient street remains of the Flaminia mili- remains for eight days before returning to tare, built by Romans in the 2nd century BC. l the Sanctuary on the day of the Ascension. The best conserved ones are near the sum- mit of Monte Bastione (1190 mts a.s.l), adjoi- t From Madonna dei Fornelli, we reach the ning the quarry where the stone was won to d 16th-century village of Qualto, near which pave this arduous piece of route, unpaved in - slabs of local sandstone, the remains of an the remaining part. The trekking is marked d ancient road on Monte Bastione between out by the VD trail sign and also by the g Bologna and Fiesole came to light. famous “dau bal zali” (two yellow balls), t which represent the first trail marker of this e exciting crossing. . l . Remarkable is also the village named Cà o Musolesi, where there are 15th- and 16th -cen- - tury architectonic elements and a building, 7 in the past tower-house. f Events Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): October and November San Benedetto VS. Fair: end of August MARKET DAY: Saturday Qualto Photo by Comune di San Benedetto Val di Sambro 131
_ d ce_gb 0 008 3: 0 ag a 3 H Castiglione dei Pepoli S T i t t l w We are now in the territory of Castiglione dei Culture and Famous Names s Pepoli, rich in chestnut and fir tree woods. Leo Nucci B The area, on the limits of the Regional Park of A world-famous baritone, Leo Nucci was S the Lakes, has the typical mountain beauty, born in Castiglione dei Pepoli in 1942 into a d situated among different summits, all slightly typical Emilian family of the time, in which b over 1,000 metres above sea level. everyone sang a little. His father in particu- h lar sang in a choir and played in the town p The ancient name being “Castiglione dei band, which Leo joined at nine years of age. P Gatti”, from the Lombard “gaita” meaning Also typical of Emilia is the technique he b mount, the town was part of the vast posses- jokingly said had created and maintained his c sions of Queen Matilde of Canossa. It was extraordinary breathing: his passion for t the dominion of the Counts of the Alberti cycling! In 1977, he made his debut at the p family and then the feud of the Pepoli fami- Scala in Milan as Figaro in The Barber of c ly, who held it for over four centuries. In the Seville, which together with Rigoletto, a f 18th century, it even had the right to make role he interpreted about 400 times, beca- coins. me his tour-de-force. Since then he has per- formed regularly in the most important Ca Particularly fascinating, and in some ways theatres around the world and has recorded Br unique in the Apennines, is the architectural over thirty complete operas with conduc- its complex of the main square, in particular the tors such as Herbert von Karajan, Riccardo th imposing form of the 15th-century Palazzo Muti and Claudio Abbado. He has also de Comunale (Town Hall). Designed by the made two films of opera, including a architect Marchesino di Cento, a guest in 1473 Macbeth presented at the Cannes Festival of the Pepoli family, the building was the seat in 1987. Nominated a UNICEF “Goodwill of the local government and so included a Ambassador” for Italy in July 2000 and an jail, commissioner’s residence and the Pepoli international opera star, Leo Nucci has family quarters. Enlarged in the 17th century maintained strong links with his birthplace, with the building of the so-called “Palazzina”, sometimes performing in the events which it still today has the frescoes which have enliven this tourist location. embellished the interiors over the centuries. Art-lovers should not miss the 17th-century Near Castiglione dei Pepoli, it is worth visi- Church of the Madonna della Consolazio- ting the ancient 17th-century villages of ne, with important works by the Bolognese Canova with its Oratory dedicated to San School, and the Church of San Lorenzo, built Giusto, Linari with its Oratory built in 1641, in about 1576 as the Oratory of the Com- and Rasora with its Oratory of 18th-century pagnia della Misericordia. origins, enlarged in the 19th century with the construction of a bell tower and a small sa- cristy. S T In Monte Baducco, a small village on the r peak of a mount overlooking Castiglione dei B Pepoli, there are splendid views of the val- T leys below. c t A few kilometres from Baragazza, there is S one of the most beautiful places of worship A in the Bolognese Apennines: the Sanctuary p of Boccadirio, the destination of incessant i pilgrimages from all over Italy. This 16th-cen- a tury building is in an enchanting position k Chestnut wood amidst green forests, at the confluence of i Photo by Comune di Castiglione dei Pepoli two rivers at the foot of Mount Tavianella. 132
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