#SuzyNYFW: Drastic Classicism From Marc Jacobs; Michael Kors Is Sporty
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#SuzyNYFW: Drastic Classicism From Marc Jacobs; Michael Kors Is
Sporty
Marc Jacobs: Drastic Classicism
Bodies stretching and folding as sporty dancers advanced in a flurry of action… the Marc Jacobs show was exceptional, even
before any fashionable clothes appeared across the empty floor-space.
Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show
Karole Armitage's choreography adds dramatic tension to the Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2020 show
Dimitrios Kambouris
This was THE show of the Autumn 2020 New York season – sport and grace combined to produce an eternal, youthful
elegance and at the same time an urgent energy. The audience, sat at coffee tables as though part of the everyday story, took
in the tidy head scarves, the dresses with short hemlines and the normality of it all compared to the complex and historical looks
of last season.
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Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show
Tidy scarves, short hemlines and colour at the Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2020 Show
Slaven Vlasic
Women in smart, often tailored outfits, in sweet colours such as buttercup-yellow and girly pink, emerged to extraordinarily fresh
effect. They were the fashionably elegant surface, while a team of dance figures in athletic garments writhed beneath.
Sometimes the two elements came together, as the models revealed light sportswear underneath their more formal clothes.
“Valuing simplicity and timeliness without forgoing our elaboration of individuality, variety and character,” explained the
designer, who might have been referring to the effect of a single mad hat – all curly fronds – a fashion echo of the wild dancing.
pagina 2 / 17Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show
Elaborate simplicity was the recurring motif of the Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2020 designs
Slaven Vlasic
pagina 3 / 17The Jacobs mentor was Karole Armitage, the choreographer and dancer whose fiercely abrupt gestures formed the core of the
presentation. The designer described the dancer’s work as “the outermost expressions of our innermost feelings”.
Even without a single garment – but perhaps including the colourfully dressed Nicki Minaj – the show would have been
fascinating. But however intelligent and articulate a designer, the proof is in the clothes. And they were stellar.
To describe the collection as classic seems ludicrous when the first impression was of the figures throwing themselves across
the wooden floor. But from the plainest of dresses to a narrow-tailored trouser suit or a sparkly dress, the clothes were
streamlined, elegant and never difficult or ridiculous.
pagina 4 / 17A forward-looking, modern and lean ethos at the Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2020 show
The Marc Jacobs concept seemed to be to offer a clear and lean wardrobe while conveying the controlled energy underneath.
pagina 5 / 17The collection was resolutely modern, from slim trouser suits and colourful dresses to shimmering evening clothes. The
message throughout was of elegance, positivity – and the ever-present wild energy hidden below.
Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show
The Autumn/Winter 2020 Marc Jacobs collection - sweet colours and room to move
Jamie McCarthy
Were the clothes ever complicated or awkward? The opposite was true; from loose tailoring offering space to move to the
simple, rigorously shaped dresses, the show presented an unparalleled collection of day-to-night garments.
pagina 6 / 17Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 12: Models walk the runway at the Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 runway show during New
York Fashion Week on February 12, 2020 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images for Marc Jacobs)
Slaven Vlasic
It is hard to think of another New York presentation with this level of sincerity in dressing women – and such a knack for
suggesting what lies beneath.
pagina 7 / 17Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show
Marc Jacobs moments before plunging into darkness, at his Autumn/Winter 2020 show
Dimitrios Kambouris
As Jacobs appeared at the centre of the long line-up of models, he stepped forward, stamped his foot – and vanished into
darkness. That personal statement was as decisive as the show.
Michael Kors: Cautiously Sporty
Come snow, come sun, come the alarmingly fast spread of coronavirus – and the consequent shut down of the Chinese market
– Michael Kors remains beamingly optimistic.
pagina 8 / 17Elegant winter warmth on the runway for Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2020
After nearly 40 years as a fashion designer, he believes passionately in serving his customer, whether that happens to be Bette
pagina 9 / 17Midler (who just dropped him a text) or the women in Miami for whom he is is prepared to hold a trunk show, even on vacation.
Michael Kors AW/20 Fashion Show
pagina 10 / 17Stylish and utilitarian hybrid knitwear from Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2020
Aurora Rose
As in his life – so in his clothes. They are designed to be worn. And the big, thick but stylish knits hit just that spot of usefulness
for Winter 2020.
The designer describes these chunky new knits as ‘hybrid’, meaning that they can be worn in different ways, taking advantage
of a new lightness. On the runway, they looked easy and cosy – two of the designer’s favourite words and the reality of the
pieces he had put together.
pagina 11 / 17Artful use of checkering by Michael Kors for Autumn/Winter 2020
“I think it is about privacy,” he added, referring not just to the to the chevron and checkered materials he served up as an all-
pagina 12 / 17embracing poncho or a cape, but also to the ‘scourge’ of the internet.
Michael Kors - February 2020 - New York Fashion Week
pagina 13 / 17Cosy with a twist from Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2020
Peter White
The collection, for both men and women, was classic Kors – with a twist – which is the way he likes it.
pagina 14 / 17Privacy from the elements in knitwear from Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2020
This embracing of winter-warm, unisex clothes was finally interrupted by the introduction of glitter, making the evening
pagina 15 / 17clothes more striking, but still practical.
Michael Kors - February 2020 - New York Fashion Week
pagina 16 / 17Michael Kors' glittering dress in recycled sequin for Autumn/Winter 2020
Peter White
“I think my approach to fashion has always been about things that are timeless and an investment,” the designer said, admitting
that he did not archive his work in his early days and that when he tries to fill that gap of garments from the Eighties and
Nineties, he finds that people have kept, not sold, his designs.
Kors, looking at the new collection, said, “Every day there is something so difficult to comprehend. Are the best things that you
can wear the ones that make you feel you are in a chic security blanket? Yes! The new collection fills the gap with things that
allow you to feel comfortable, cosy and relaxed”.
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