São Paulo stay another day - BOOKLETIA
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Stay another day Where to stay, eat and have fun: save some time to know the best of São Paulo São Paulo stay another day One of the most pulsating metropolis in the world, São Paulo is much more than a great place for doing business. Taking a day off is the first step to find out the multiple attractions of the capital. This guide provides two suggestions for you to make the most of your stay: visiting the best sites in one neighborhood, or engaging in one- day themed tours, custom-made for travelers of different walks of life. CITY HALL CITY HALL Culture, shopping, parks, budget activities, INCLUdes courses, night life, free time with children
A publication of São Paulo Turismo S/A, the official tourism board of the city of São Paulo. Its mission is to position and promote the city of São Paulo as the capital for business, knowledge, and entertainment in Latin America, bringing out its avant-garde and cultural character, seeking its consolidation as a tourist destination, and aiming at the enhancement of the economical activity and the quality of life of its citizens. Mayor of the city of São Paulo: Fernando Haddad www.prefeitura.sp.gov.br President of São Paulo Turismo S/A: Marcelo Rehder Vice-President of São Paulo Turismo S/A: Ítalo Cardoso Araújo Strategic Actions and Communication Director:Marcos Vinícius Sinval Finance, Management and Investor Relations Director: Arley Ayres Infrastructure Director: Luiz Ricardo Santoro Events Director: Everaldo Teixeira Dourado Junior Marketing and Sales Director: João Francisco Aprá Employee Representation Director: João Batista de Godoy Tourism and Entertainment Director: Luciane Leite Planning Manager: Fernanda Ascar Promotions Manager: Marisa Marrocos Content collaboration and text revision: São Paulo Turismo S/A – Tourism Department Websites: www.spturis.com • www.cidadedesaopaulo.com www.fiquemaisumdia.com.br • www.anhembi.com.br • www.autodromointerlagos.com Address: Avenida Olavo Fontoura, 1209 • Parque Anhembi Santana • SP CEP 02012-021 • cidadedesaopaulo@spturis.com Content supplied and produced by Editora Abril S.A., commissioned by SPturis. Reproduction prohibited. Editorial Coordination: Fábio Peixoto Marketing Manager: Jair Oliveira Printed in August, 2013 5.000 copies Some information may be subject to changes without prior notice. Avoid any inconvenience by calling ahead before you set out. CITY HALL
Experience it all São Paulo is an emblematic and surprising city. As a business hub, it is a leader in South America, either due to its large market, its infrastruc- ture and its service network or for boasting some of the best research centers and qualified professionals, all of which make the metropolis a commercial and trendsetter hub, where subsidiaries of the world’s largest companies are located. These are the major features that attract a large share of the tourists arriving in São Paulo’s capital every year: no less than 45% of its visitors are businessmen, entrepreneurs, senior executives or companies’ em- ployees who come to the city to attend a meeting, an event or close a good deal. But there is another side to the town that visitors have started to discover - and have eventually fallen in love with. It’s that side of São Paulo that pulsates with culture, creativity, innovation, haute cuisi- ne, entertainment, and diversity, captivating people from all over the country and the world. The São Paulo that blends cutting-edge inter- national trends to the peculiarities of Brazilian culture, creating unique and innovative products, tours, places and experiences. That’s why this guide invites you, the visitor, to extend your stay for at least another day to experience what the city can offer, thus getting in contact with the new, the unique, and whatever is hip. And to make your search easier, you only need to select one of the suggested one-day tours on the following pages, according to your preferences and style or according to where you are staying, so you do not have to cross long distances. Do not miss the chance of enjoying this metropolis. Since you are in São Paulo, make the most of it, extending your stay for at least one day; prepare yourself a nice itinerary and experience it all. São Paulo Turismo São Paulo City Hall
Summary Welcome Shopping......................... 44 Design your A perfect itinerary............................. 5 weekend ......................... 48 Understand São Paulo .... 6 Check the map . .............. 10 Must-see São Paulo neighborhoods creative city........................ 12 Centro, Liberdade and Bela Vista ................ 54 Custom Pacaembu, Higienópolis Tours and Barra Funda............. 58 Nature............................. 16 Avenida Paulista, Culture ............................ 20 Consolação, Jardins Wellness......................... 24 Photo credit: Jair Magri / Cover credits: Carmen Fukunari, Bia Parreiras, Jair Magri, Publicity and Ibirapuera ................. 62 Good Deals . ................... 28 Pinheiros and Sophistication................ 32 Vila Madalena................. 66 Cool. ............................... 36 Moema, Itaim Bibi, Family.............................. 40 Brooklin and Morumbi. . 70 Ibirapuera Auditorium Luz, Bom Retiro and Brás . ........................ 74 Other neighborhoods.... 78 Get ready Stay (much) more than a day............. 82 4 cityofsaopaulo.com
Design your itinerary If you have an extra day in São Paulo you may decide what to do considering a theme or a region of the city Custom Tours Nine amazing routes, according to different profiles and interests, are suggested. Each one has a list of activities that last all day long, from breakfast till the wee hours. Museu da Língua Portuguesa Must-see neighborhoods Attractions in this section are organized accor- ding to the neighborhoods and regions that ga- ther most hotels and tourist sights, so you can have fun and enjoy the city any time you wish. Indications fall into categories: Attractions, Ac- commodation, Food, and Nightlife. a cultural day Rua João Cachoeira the span of 74 m, a result of a daring project by Lina Bo Bardi. Inside, it shelters one of the most important art collections in Latin America, with works by artists like Monet, Raphael, Renoir, Picasso and Van Gogh. This collection, which totals 8,000 pieces, is usu- ally displayed in themed exhibitions. The Courses underground area of the museum holds a large exhibition area, plus an amphitheater, a shop and a restaurant. São Paulo is also a place for teaching and EVENING COURSES learning, the pillars that support the mo- If you manage to walk along the 2.8 km of Paulista Avenue, you will stumble upon other Visiting so many mu- seums and art gal- leries in São Paulo cultural attractions. Closer to Praça Osvaldo vement of creative cities around the world Cruz lie the Casa das Rosas (Av. Paulista, 37, 3258-6986), whose activities are focused on may raise the desire to deepen your knowledge on the subject. MASP (Av. Paulista, 1578, (read more on page 12). To incorporate new poetry and literature, and Itaú Cultural (Av. Paulista, 149, 2168-1777), with exhibitions of 3251-5644, masp.art.br) offers an introductory course on art history with lessons taught within the experiences into your trip, the routes inclu- video art and multimedia languages. At the opposite end of the avenue, Conjunto Na- premises of the museum, provid- ing an overview of the visual arts. On the other hand, the Course on cional (Av. Paulista, 2073) holds regular exhi- de some suggestions of short-length dura- bitions in its corridors, which are covered in Portuguese mosaic. The gallery also shelters Art History at MIS (Av. Europa, 158, Jardim Europa; 2117-4777, mis-sp. org.br) emphasizes contemporary tion courses. Featured a unit of Caixa Cultural (3321-4400) and the Livraria Cultura (3170-4033), a mega book- art and its relationship with tech- nology and digital media, cover- ing from the Renaissance to pres- store with cultural activities. suggestions ent days. If you decide to see a play to wrap up your night, the city usually has on display dramas, comedies and musicals. Bela Vista is home to several theaters like Sergio Cardoso (R. Rui Barbosa, 153; 3288-0136), Ruth Escobar (R. Another haven for hungry stomachs in the dos Ingleses, 209; 3289-2358) and Abril The- downtown area is Avanhandava Street. A for- Services All the attractions and establishments are followed by their addresses and phone ater (Av. Brig.Luis Antonio, 411; 2846 -6060). mer meeting point of artists, it was revitalized Photo credits: Jair Magri After the spectacle, the right choice for in 2007 and became a boulevard with flower numbers (the area code for São Paulo is 11). Before setting out, check times, prices, and sche- dinner are the Italian cantinas. Roperto (R. 13 de Maio, 634, Bela Vista; 3288-2573) has four beds and a special pavement. Take your time to sample the antipasti and the pasta served dules – or book a table, for restaurants. Shops are usually open from Monday to Saturday, from lounges and many tables; the highlight on the at Famiglia Mancini (R. Avanhandava, 81, menu is the tasty polpettone, their specialty. Centro, 3255-6599). 9am to 6pm; shopping malls are open from 10am to 10pm and, on Sundays, from 2pm to 8pm. cityofsaopaulo.com 23 cityofsaopaulo.com 5
Understand São Paulo 1© Mário Pimenta Camargo Park (Parque do Povo): the green area brings color to the city’s skyline S ão Paulo is such a multiple city that it cannot be described in a few words. But it is exactly this diversity what makes it so unique, a city laden with museums, theaters, cinemas, parks, stadiums, ho- tels, bars, restaurants, and many other entertainment options. To make the most of your stay in the metropolis, follow these indica- tions and tips on how to arrive, get around and visit the main attrac- tions of São Paulo’s capital. 6 cityofsaopaulo.com
City routes Cultural programs You can contact one of the inbound trav- Listings supplements featuring the cul- el agencies and hire guided tours, which tural activities of the city are brought out also offer special packages – one exam- by major newspapers on Fridays. Veja ple is the SP Indy 300, which may be tak- São Paulo is a listings magazine enclosed en by fans on the days of the race. The published on Saturdays. On the internet, city hall also indicates themed itineraries check these websites: cidadedesaopaulo. you may follow on your own (learn more com, guiadasemana.com.br, guia.folha. at cidadedesaopaulo.com): com.br, vejinha.com.br and visitesao- paulo.com. You may also purchase tickets ARCHITECTURE IN THE HISTORICAL CEN- for movies and shows in these websites: TER Visit one-hundred-year-old buildings ingresso.com, ingressofacil.com.br, in- such as the Tribunal de Justiça (Court Room) gressorapido.com.br, ticketsforfun.com. and the Martinelli Building. br, and cinemark.com.br. AFRICAN CULTURE Casa Mestre Ananias, a house founded by the pioneer capoeira player in the city, is among the sights of this tour. STREET ART Interventions by artists are scat- tered on walls in the four corners of the city. CREATIVE CITY A tour to see the attractions and activities that confirm the expressiveness and the vocations of the metropolis. RURAL ECOTOURISM Trails, waterfalls, and indigenous communities can be visited in the environmental protection areas of the city. INDEPENDENCE OF BRAZIL A historical overview, from the site where independence was proclaimed to the museum within Inde- pendência Park. COFFEE The grain is part of the city’s history, Photo credits: 1© Ricardo Rollo, 2© Jair Magri bolstering the construction of railways, up to the place where the coffe was negotiated. FOOTBALL Praça Charles Miller is the starting point for visitors who want to learn more about the sport that landed first in São Paulo before taking over Brazil. VIEWING POINTS The vastness of the city can 2© be seen from above, from vantage points like the top of Copan Building and Pico do Jaraguá. Pinacoteca: a vast collection of sculptures cityofsaopaulo.com 7
Useful telephone numbers in Campinas. Most Brazilian airlines sell AREA CODE 11 tickets online, but foreigners must head (São Paulo City and metropolitan area) to the companies’ counters or agencies. FIRE BRIGADE 193 AEROPORTO DE CONGONHAS Av. EMERGENCY MEDICAL SERVICE 192 Washington Luís, s/n, Campo Belo; 5090- MILITARY POLICE 190 9000; AEROPORTO INTERNACIONAL CIVIL POLICE 147 DE SÃO PAULO Rod. Hélio Smidt, s/n, TRAFFIC EMERGENCY 1188 Guarulhos; 2445-2945; AEROPORTO IN- DEATUR (Tourist Police Station) TERNACIONAL DE VIRACOPOS Rod. 3257-4475 Santos Dumont, Km 66, Campinas; (19) CONSUMERS’ DEFENSE 151 3725-5000; CAMPO DE MARTE Av. San- DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE 102 tos Dumont, 1979, Santana; 2223-3700. SÃO PAULO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU 3736-0600 INTERCITY BUS TERMINALS SÃO PAULO TURISMO 2226-0400 There are three bus terminals in São Pau- INTERNATIONAL CALLS lo (Tietê, Barra Funda and Jabaquara), all Embratel 00 + 21 + country code + area of which are operated by Socicam (3866- code + telephone number 1110; socicam.com.br). Telefônica 00 + 15 + country code + area TERMINAL RODOVIÁRIO GOVERNA- code + telephone number DOR CARVALHO PINTO (TIETÊ) The largest bus terminal is next to the Tietê Arriving subway station. Buses service 1 033 cities AIRPORTS of 21 states in Brazil and also in Uruguay, The airports of Congonhas and Guarulhos Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, and Peru. Av. are the entrance doors to those flying in Cruzeiro do Sul, 1800. to São Paulo. Special air-conditioned TERMINAL RODOVIÁRIO BARRA FUN- coaches (Airport Bus Service; 0800 770 DA This terminal interconnects the sub- 7995, Mon to Fri, 7am to 7pm; 2445- way system, metropolitan trains, buses 2430, at other times: airportbusservice. and interstate buses. 446 destinations com.br), connect both airports and stop are serviceed. R. Auro Soares de Moura at major sites in the city, like some ho- Andrade, 664. tels on Paulista Avenue, Augusta Street, TERMINAL RODOVIÁRIO JABAQUARA Praça da República and bus terminals. A Attached to the Jabaquara subway sta- metropolitan bus line also links the Tatu- tion. Buses service ten cities of the south- apé subway station to the Guarulhos ter- ern coast of São Paulo. R. Jequitibás, s/n. minal. The city is also home to a runway for executive aviation and air taxi, called Getting Around Campo de Marte; it is 99km from the CAR OR TAXI Aeroporto Internacional de Viracopos, The sheer number of vehicles in the city, 8 cityofsaopaulo.com
above 7 million, usually causes slow- attractions, facilities and essentials of the down in traffic, especially in the early metropolis. Visitors will also find guides, morning, late afternoon and on rainy maps, and leaflets with suggestions of days. If you rent a car, beware of vehicle activities and tips. Updated information restrictions based on plate numbers en- about the CITs can be obtained on the forced during the week in a large area website www.cidadedesaopaulo.com. around the city center. If you’d rather CIT ANHEMBI take a taxi, select from the categories: Open during events at common, special, and radio taxi. The the Anhembi Park. two last ones are more expensive, but CITs GUARULHOS reachable by phone (Guarucoop 2440- Terminals 1 and 2 (Arrivals area) of the 7070; Rádio-Táxi Vermelho e Branco São Paulo International Airport. 3146-4000; Táxi Comum Aeroporto de CIT MERCADO Congonhas 5533-6631; Táxi Comum R. da Cantareira, 306, inside Mercado Mu- Rodoviária Tietê 2221-3779). nicipal de São Paulo CIT OLIDO BUS Av. São João, 473, inside Galeria Olido. There are 1 349 bus lines operating in the CIT PAULISTA city. All of them take the so-called Bilhete Av. Paulista, 1853, inside Único, a card which allows users to get Mário Covas Park on up to four buses in a period of three CIT REPÚBLICA hours, paying for just one trip. This card is Pça. da República, Centro. sold on SPTrans booths, newsstands and CIT TIETÊ lottery kiosks. For itineraries, call 156 or Terminal Rodoviário Tietê (Intercity Bus access the website www.sptrans.com.br. Terminal), arrivals area. SUBWAY Electronic guide The Yellow, Blue, Green, and Red lines are If you have in your hands a smartphone open from Sunday to Friday from 4:40am or a tablet with internet access you may to midnight, and to 1am on Saturdays. obtain information about services, es- The Lilac line also operates daily, but al- tablishments and tourist sights with ways closes at midnight. Further infor- the app SP Mobile, available at Android mation on www.metro.sp.gov.br. Market (market.android.com) or App- Store (itunes.apple.com). CITs The CITs are the official Tourist Informa- tion Centers of the city of São Paulo. Bi- lingual professionals are available to help and provide information about events, cityofsaopaulo.com 9
Check the map S de Sousa ão Paulo has an area of 1.5 Freguesia do Ó million sq km. Most attractions Ba Anhan g n jar de Piqueri ir Ina an and tourist sights are located in t ue es ra OTAVIA NO Av. Centro (Downtown) and in South ALVES Zone or West Zone. This guide AV . A Ma v. rch Ermano Av. Domingos e tti has prepared six tours, which are Cas de Morais Lapa Lapa Br a tello Ga Brig. Água Br detailed in the chapter Must-see nc o v iã o to Lapa Imperatriz Peix o Av. Guaicurus Av Leopoldina XI Neighborhoods. You will find sug- Presidente Dr Altino Pi o . ia gestions of accommodation, res- pe Vi m d iga Ga Po AV Ce iroz l st ã taurants, shops, bars, and night . Que rro Av. o Ceasa Av. Sã o Fil h . Av Corá clubs in the following districts: Jaguaré 4 He Perdiz Av o Prof. F ito . Jaguaré r 1 CENTRO, Liberdade and Ro ons Guálter DA d r ec Pen é ig a Vila Madalena u ar S ue t ea d Bela Vista This region tells the his- Ja g s Santuário N. S. d Av. tory of São Paulo . Fátima - Sumaré . Av de Ped Av Cid. Universitária r Mo oso . a nic rai al e Poli té c s r de r d 2 Pacaembu, Higienópolis Ca c o v e Ar NA and Barra Funda Gastronomy, Cidade ÇÕE o la Faria Lima Esc Universitária o Co eb S Pinheiros .R rif Av soccer and nightlife meet in these . eu Av. Av Av V Brasi ital . l Pinheiros ue s Butantã 5 de multicultural neighborhoods. Azevedo Ma rq Butantã Rebouças - Hebraica Br 3 Paulista AVENUE, Conso- ig Av . Cid. a res Jockey Jardim Morumbi to lação, Jardins and Ibirapu- Tav Mo ra Club im Fa a Ra poso rd d. . Li m Ci Av Ja o era This route allows for an intense Fr a nc is c Vila Olímpia Av. UNID O cultural life and boasts the most pop- ST R Av. Pro f. Morumbi AS E CA ular green area in the city. hi Av. ÃE S D c Gr on Mo i 4 Pinheiros and Vila Mada- Be rrin Av. LH MA GA lena Day and night activities in this los Estádio do Dr. Ca r Morumbi ni Berrini n bohemian region, laden with bars Brook va . Luís Lu Gio sí AV. º Eng and workshops. Av. Av. Mig Av. Jor Mo n. 5 Moema, BROOKLIN, Itaim an ru li o Morumbi mb i Bibi and Morumbi Lined along A Campo H OS D IL EIR PA Limpo this axis are sophisticated establish- Av c e n Granja Julieta NH . . M o Av. . Vi St DE ments, from hotels to restaurants. IO te PI ÍLV .S V. das 6 Luz, Bom Retiro and Brás AJ O Av. Belezas RI .M AV Av. This region keeps records of the city’s Giovanni Gronchi Campo tradition, in museums and commer- Limpo Largo 13 Santo Amaro Santo Amaro cial streets. 10 cityofsaopaulo.com
Jd. São Vila Medeiros de Sousa s re va Paulo Ál Dr. Zumquim Santana no e ta Co jar Santana nc Ca a e Av. Av. tra Ina Ca s Verd Lem e Câ M ei çã Du nd a ria o º. ida g . Av En Brás Av. Sul ALVES . Av DE Campo Ara r Carandiru i ta uina de Marte gu o ab Av. a lh a Vila Joa q LIM A Fontoura ROBIAN O Ram AV Av. Olavo do Av. . Maria i ng e Mq. Anhembi 2de . Co h er m Portuguesa - Tietê es Pr S. PRE S. tch AV 6 Av. il Água Branca Vi cente . Gu CA ST EL A O V. Av MO Cruzeiro BR A R DO . R Barra Funda DO NC VA IR E es Av. N O FIGUE . urus Av DE ud DE Ti radent Francisco Júlio DIAS ge Barra Funda Armênia s Prestes rlo AV . EL IZ AB ET H Ca Mal. s . ia po Pq. Ma t Dr Av Deodoro CO cia A pe Tiradentes m Água Branca ara zzo N DE SS A G ar Av. v. . Ca m Penha Ca t Po Av. Luz Av. Celso Av. Rio Luz um Av. Le ste ES T Tatuapé bi Br tan a . Sta. Cecília Luz ré Sã el Pes a o Rang nc a A Antôn l Carrão Sum Rad ia DO o República . Perdizes Av Av. Pacaemb u Joã o Tatuapé a República io é lic São Bento Belém Salim An g Pen . t ea d Anhangabaú Sé Av Av. o da ç ã o la Bresser - Av. so Tatuapé de Av. n Sé Pedro II Brás Mooca ário N. S. de Dr. Co Av. Ar - Sumaré 3 na ld o Paulista Centro AV. da Av. o lh Clínicas DO Ju 1 Mooca Barro l Re ni o e a de Consolação Liberdade Mo a r d o v er RI o Feij ge nte tô ca Far c O ó An Maio Ar s A a São Joaquim a Trianon - Pa v. st h ES T gu ma ç as Masp ul Pa Mooca Au is t es ou A a Vergueiro eb DO .R Av de i s Av de Lu pa Brigadeiro ce los o . r de Eu Av. Sap Va scon TA uças - Br o Li ns 9 as p em Maluf . M Paraíso ig aica il ba de AN Br Br DU ig Av. 23 . Ipiranga Av Barros . Cid. AT Itaim . t EÍ Jardim Av . e Líbano . Av Av Jaf Ana Rosa o Luí s Inácio Bibi m rd Vila Prof. Fa a ca i Anhaia Melo rd do Ri d. . Li m de Ci Av . ria Ja c bits hek Av Ku Pq. Mariana Vila Prudente . Av. Dr Av. Rep. V. Mariana Juntas Ibirapuera Am aro Vila Prudente Av Ve Provisórias Av. J. . rg Tamanduateí ue iro de Morais Santos - ra ue Imigrantes Rubem p Av. Hé das ra ino Berta Chácara Moema Pellegr Tamanduateí lio i Sta. Cruz Ib Av Klabin Sacomã AV. rrini Sto. . Alto do de M r aão . ENLARGED Av Doming os Ipiranga is Av. o ra Av. Ab s Av. ve AREA o DO O Cursin Ne Prof. D TA Es Alm . Av Brooklin tr. ES Dela . Av. do Pça. da Árvore s m are ed o Aliberti Ve Saúde rg ar o São Caetano r India an c ue Saúde Am Jab aquara iro do s. T Ba n óp Jor n de n rum . ira São Caetano Pre olis Guido n Luís bi te das s do Sul Av. . Av S. Judas Ro rio b . Vi á e rt Av lexo Aeroporto Co m p luf La o Ma g rim de Congonhas Ma ri a Av c e n Ma as Av g to n . Vi . ri nh Pe. Vieira Pr o te h in of do Conceição . Av. An as c W Ra hi Cursino e Av. rant es o do ta Jabaquara Pq. do N rlin N Sté Estado A Imig fa Jabaquara no . Av cityofsaopaulo.com 11
São Paulo creative city The diversity of cultures and ethnicities that shaped the state capital works as a driving force in the search for knowledge, inventivity and quality of life within urban areas Nearly five centuries after its foun- ted by scholars in the 1980s. It arose dation, São Paulo moves ahead in its from the need to open up new paths cutting edge path, strongly influenced for sustainable urban development, by diversity. The melting pot of natio- as a result of the decline of the indus- nalities, cultures and ideals transfor- trial age and the constant adoption of med a small village into the modern new technologies. and vibrating metropolis we know. Following the lead of London and São Paulo is superlative. It holds Australia, many cities and countries fairs and business events, sporting have already adopted creativity as a events, film festivals and interna- watchword in order to reinvent their tionally acclaimed music festivals. It means of production and of society’s houses museums with precious art participation. These are places in whi- collections, while its stages receive ch socioeconomic conditions were de- numerous talents of the dramatic arts. signed to attract and retain talented São Paulo boasts the largest number citizens. It is through the appreciation of hotel rooms in Latin America. Its of the intellectual capacity of people territory is home to major companies that new management or business and prestigious universities. It is one models may be created. of the gastronomic and bohemian ca- São Paulo also has plenty of rea- pitals of the world. sons and tools to partake in this mo- It is in this context of multiple vement. The metropolis has long pro- vocations that São Paulo takes on ved to be a democratic space, hosting its role as a creative city. This term, an array of activities related to the which stemmed from the concept of cultural and entertainment markets. creative economy, was first elabora- Recent studies show that São Paulo 12 cityofsaopaulo.com
2© 1© 3© Musicals, museums, and cultural activities feed the creativity of the metropolis concentrates 9% of Brazilian compa- Architecture biennials. These expe- nies linked to the creative economy, riences convey knowledge to its citi- as well as 15% of all professionals in zens, expanding job opportunities and this segment. encouraging the search for improved Thus the city expresses its creative quality of life in urban environments. Photo credits: 1© Publicity, 2© 3© Jair Magri potential all year long and all over its To continue as the creative city we territory. In the bustle of Rua Augus- expect it to be, São Paulo’s metamor- ta and Vila Madalena, in the cultural phosis must be based on imagination, hubs of art and design, in its parks collaboration and the effective parti- and sports centers, in its educational cipation of its inhabitants and visitors institutions, at the São Paulo Fashion alike. Enjoy the many cities of São Week, at the International Film Festi- Paulo. Frenzied, savvy, green, cozy, val, at the Campus Party, at the LGBT unique, unfathomable. Come discover Pride Parade, at the Book, Arts, and all of them and be a part of this story. cityofsaopaulo.com 13
1© 3©
2© Custom itineraries Sao Paulo is a superlative city, with attractions for all walks of life. Do Photo credits: 1©, 3© Jair Magri , 2© Andréa D’Amato not miss the chance of delving into the charms of the metropolis: discover which suggested itinerary suits your style and enjoy it.
A day in nature 1© Ibirapuera Park, the green area is one of the most complete leisure facilities in the São Paulo I t is easy to see São Paulo as a “stone jungle”, always with a row of skyscrapers against the skyline. But a closer look shows more green space. There are over 90 parks; some of which are oases with- in the urban area, while some, farther from the center, are natural reserves – totaling 300,000 sq km of vegetation, a 21% of the city’s territory. And to keep in touch with nature at mealtimes, several res- taurants offer tables outdoors in tree-lined areas. 16 cityofsaopaulo.com
a day in nature Morning Wear light clothes for your ride outdoors. Then, it is worth sampling a hearty and healthy break- fast. A large variety of fruit juices and other natural suggestions, such as mashed açaí, com- pose the menu of Bolados Sucos (R. Joaquim Floriano, 373, Itaim Bibi; 3168-5723). On week- ends, head to the nearby Pé no Parque (R. Inhambu, 240, Moema; 5051-3376). Thus you have started your day near the green area which is at the heart of São Paulo and its inhabitants, Ibirapuera Park (Av. Pe- dro Alvares Cabral, s/n; parqueibirapuera.org). Open for almost six decades, it is one of the most comprehensive leisure facilities in the city. The park stretches well over 1600 sq km, with hiking trails, jogging tracks, a bike lane, sports courts, playground and areas and equip- 2© ment for gymnastics and fitness activities. En- compassing four lakes, a forest of eucalyptus Cantareira Park: a native forest in the city trees, lawns and native and exotic specimens of trees such as ironwood and Brazil wood, the park also shelters a plant nursery, the Viveiro AFTERNOON Manequinho Lopes (Av. IV Centenário, Gate For a more intense contact with nature, 7; 3887-6761), the origin of many seedlings head to Serra da Cantareira and spend the that are planted along city streets. Still inside afternoon there. If you want to quench your the Ibirapuera, you can see another side of na- hunger before beginning the adventure, visit Photo credits: 1© Carmen Fukunari, 2© Renato Nascimento ture at the Planetário (5575-5206; prefeitura. the restaurant O Velhão/As Véia (Estr. Santa sp.gov.br/astronomia). Thanks to a modern Inês, 3000, Mairiporã; 11 4485-4195). Ask for projector, visitors may observe the skies of dif- a table on the terrace facing the woods, help ferent parts of the universe. yourself at the buffet with regional food and It is worth mentioning that there are more take your time savoring the dishes and enjoy- reasons to deem the Ibirapuera, designed by ing the scenery. architect Oscar Niemeyer, a multifaceted por- Next, visit the Cantareira Park (R. do Hor- trait of the metropolis: it also hosts the build- to, 1799, Horto Florestal; 2203-0115) and see ings of Bienal, Oca, Auditório Ibirapuera, the one of the largest urban native forests in the headquarters of the museums of Modern Art world. Among the tracks, take the one leading (MAM) and AfroBrasil, as well as monuments to the Mirante da Pedra Grande (Belvedere), and works of art installed on the lawns. which offers a beautiful panorama of the city cityofsaopaulo.com 17
1© Horto Florestal: in addition to leisure facilities, some areas promote the contemplation of nature from the top of a rock, at 1010 m height. An- Casa da Fazenda do Morumbi (Av. Morumbi, other major green area in the region is Horto 5594, Morumbi; 3742-2810). The restaurant, Florestal (R. do Horto, 931, Horto Florestal; surrounded by vegetation, occupies the former 2231-8555; iflorestal.sp.gov.br/hortoflor- mansion of one of the first tea plantations from estal), inaugurated over a century ago. With the Brazilian colonial period. Its menu offers sports courts, playground and good facili- recipes from the Brazilian cuisine. ties, it is a nice setting for picnics. Still today To contemplate the exuberant flora right it is home to capuchin monkeys, capybaras, inside the metropolis, take a stroll along the toucans and other animals. Another pleasant tree-lined alleys of Burle Marx Park (Av. Dona site is the Pico do Jaraguá (access by Rod. Helena Pereira de Morais, 200, Vila Andrade; Anhanguera, km 18, Jaraguá), the highest 3746-7631; parqueburlemarx.com.br). What peak in the capital, with a height of 1135 m. fascinates visitors here is the garden designed You can go by car or hike along one of the by landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, trails leading to the top, from where you see with imperial palms around a water mirror and the vastness of São Paulo. a set of sculptures on the lawn, resembling a If you’re in the opposite side of town, in checkerboard. Not far away is another lovely South Zone, a suggestion for your lunch is garden, at the Fundação Maria Luisa and Os- 18 cityofsaopaulo.com
a day in nature car Americano (Av. Morumbi, 4077, Morumbi, Machado, 1263, Cidade Jardim; 3037-7426), 3742-0077; fundacaooscaramericano.org.br). inside the Jockey Club de São Paulo, has ta- You can see the sunset from the museum tea bles on the lawn and a beautiful night scen- room, which is in a house designed by Oswal- ery. If you prefer something more laid-back, do Arthur Bratke. make for Pé de Manga (R. Arapiraca, 152, Vila Madalena; 3032-6068), where a leafy Evening mango tree in the open area welcomes lively If you still have some energy after sunset, you customers. may head to Mário Pimenta Camargo Park, also known as Parque do Povo (Av. Henrique Chamma, 490, Itaim Bibi; 3073-1217), which closes at 10pm. It is a great place for physical activity, for it holds several sports courts – in- cluding some specially designed for Paralym- pic sports – a grass soccer field, a bike lane and a jogging track. If you’d rather take it a little bit easy, use the low impact fitness equipment or take a 2© walk through the gardens, among fruit trees, hardwoods and a seedbed with herbs. Bear in mind that Ibirapuera Park is also sought COURSES by those willing to walk, jog or exercise after An alternative to learn their working hours, for gates 5 (Av. IV Cen- about sustainability tenário), 2, 3 and 10 (Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral) and socio-environ- only close at midnight. mental education are Later on, choose the restaurant Praça São the courses given by the Univer- sidade Aberta do Meio Ambiente Lourenço (R. Casa do Ator, 608, Vila Olimpia; e Cultura da Paz (UMAPAZ; 5572- 3053-9300) to keep with the open air feel dur- 1004; prefeitura.sp.gov.br/uma Fotos: 1© Sergio Tahuata, 2© Pedro Henrique Cunha ing your dinner. The glazed halls surround a paz). The headquarters is in Ibira- square – that’s the meaning of praça in Por- puera Park, but classes are taught in different locations within the tuguese – where tables lie amidst fruit trees city. Another way to get engaged and a koi pond. On the menu, Italian dishes is through the free course of en- and specialties made in a wood oven. vironmental communication at Another option is Capim Santo (Al. Min Senac – Jabaquara branch (Av. do Café, 298, 2146-9150; sp.senac.br), Rocha Azevedo, 471, Jardins; 3068-8486), in which students learn to dissemi- which serves traditional Brazilian dishes on nate information about nature, be- a patio surrounded by greenery. If you are up sides discussing the importance of for a drink and want to cap off your evening green for society. under the stars, Cânter (Av. Lineu de Paula cityofsaopaulo.com 19
A cultural day MASP: the museum shelters one of the largest art collections in Latin America S ão Paulo can proudly boast the title of capital of cultural diver- sity. Since the 1922 Modern Art Week, the city opened up to old and new art movements, whether national or international. Impres- sionist and cubist works live side by side under the modern design of MASP, while urban art invades galleries and cultural centers. That is not to mention theaters, cinemas and other venues, set on con- quering the public. 20 cityofsaopaulo.com
a cultural day Morning The ground floor houses the circulating li- Joining culture and history is a good reason brary, with 43,000 books for loan to readers. to start the day in Centro (Downtown). Thus A cultural morning may be spent at the the first step is to have your breakfast at the concrete side of Ibirapuera Park, checking its oldest bakery in town, Santa Tereza (Pça. museums, pavilions and outdoor exhibits. The João Mendes, 150, Centro; 3101-5667), estab- Museu de Arte Moderna – MAM (Ibirapuera lished in 1872. When in doubt, order a média, Park, Gate 3, 5085-1300; mam.org.br) usually a typical local combination of buttered bread holds temporary exhibitions; contemporary toasted on the griddle and a pingado, coffee artists such as Cildo Meirelles enhance the served in a glass with some drops of milk. collection of more than 5,000 works. Around Not far, on Praça do Patriarca, one can see the building, some pieces are displayed out- an excellent example of how the new and the doors in the Sculpture Garden. The Museu old coexist in the metropolis. Buildings from Afro Brasil (Ibirapuera Park, Gate 10, 3320- the beginning of last century, like Matarazzo 8900; museuafrobrasil.com.br), also in one of Building (Viaduto do Chá, 15, Centro), which the pavilions in the park, is dedicated to works houses the town hall, fit harmoniously with a of art, photographs, documents and other huge portico of 40 m supporting a metal roof ethnological items, some dating from the XV – a creation of award-winning architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha. Inaugurated in 2002, it sits atop the entrance to Galeria Prestes Maia. Walk across Viaduto do Chá, over Vale do Anhangabaú, and admire the splendor of the Municipal Theater (Pça Ramos de Azevedo, s/n, Centro, 3397-0300; teatromunicipal. sp.gov.br). Thoroughly restored and reopened in 2011, in its 100th anniversary, the theater has guided tours, but you can simply enter the marble lobby and visit the cafe on the ground floor, which was redesigned by the Campana brothers. Head to the box office and check if there are tickets available for are any perfor- mances scheduled for the evening. Nearby is the Biblioteca Mário de Andrade (R. da Consolação, 94, Centro; 3256-5270). Its col- Photo credits: Jair Magri lection, that has occupied the building for 70 years, is only surpassed, in Brazil, by that of Biblioteca Nacional (RJ). It shelters important works for research, such as a letter by Manuel da Nóbrega and manuscripts by Ruy Barbosa. Municipal Theater: a renewed cafe cityofsaopaulo.com 21
century, thus composing a comprehensive 50th anniversary of the institution in 2013. profile of the black culture in the construction If you get hungry before you leave the of Brazilian society. park, take a chance at the restaurant Prêt no MAM (5085-1306), which is inside the muse- AFTERNOON um and always has creative recipes. Another Just by crossing a footbridge over 23 de option is the nearby Così (R.Jacques Felix, Maio Avenue you will find another piece of 381, Moema; 3672-0089), where fresh pasta the architectural complex of Ibirapuera: the and the octopus risotto with green olives are new headquarters of the Museu de Arte prepared by chef Renato Carioni. For dessert, Contemporânea da Universidade de São peer through the shop window of Pâtisserie Paulo – MAC USP (Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, Douce France (Al. Jaú, 554, Jardins, 3262- 1301, Ibirapuera, 5573-9932; mac.usp.br). 3542). The puff pastry pie will be the fuel you Also designed by Oscar Niemeyer, the build- need to move toward Paulista Avenue. ing housed a government office up to 2009; it Your next stop is at the Museu de Arte was reopened in January 2012 with an exhibi- de São Paulo – MASP (Av. Paulista, 1578, tion of 18 sculptures on the ground floor. The 3251-5644; masp.art.br). As relevant as its remaining floors will be progressively taken collection, the building is a concrete box until the end of the year, to celebrate the suspended by red beams, towering over Museu de Arte Contemporânea – USP: more exhibition space in the new headquarters 22 cityofsaopaulo.com
a cultural day the span of 74 m, a result of a daring project by Lina Bo Bardi. Inside, it shelters one of the most important art collections in Latin America, with works by artists like Monet, Raphael, Renoir, Picasso and Van Gogh. This collection, which totals 8,000 pieces, is usu- ally displayed in themed exhibitions. The underground area of the museum holds a large exhibition area, plus an amphitheater, a shop and a restaurant. COURSES Evening If you manage to walk along the 2.8 km of Visiting so many mu- Paulista Avenue, you will stumble upon other seums and art gal- leries in São Paulo cultural attractions. Closer to Praça Osvaldo may raise the desire Cruz lie the Casa das Rosas (Av. Paulista, 37, to deepen your knowledge on the 3258-6986), whose activities are focused on subject. MASP (Av. Paulista, 1578, poetry and literature, and Itaú Cultural (Av. 3251-5644, masp.art.br) offers an introductory course on art history Paulista, 149, 2168-1777), with exhibitions of with lessons taught within the video art and multimedia languages. At the premises of the museum, provid- opposite end of the avenue, Conjunto Na- ing an overview of the visual arts. cional (Av. Paulista, 2073) holds regular exhi- On the other hand, the Course on Art History at MIS (Av. Europa, 158, bitions in its corridors, which are covered in Jardim Europa; 2117-4777, mis-sp. Portuguese mosaic. The gallery also shelters org.br) emphasizes contemporary a unit of Caixa Cultural (3321-4400) and the art and its relationship with tech- Livraria Cultura (3170-4033), a mega book- nology and digital media, cover- ing from the Renaissance to pres- store with cultural activities. ent days. If you decide to see a play to wrap up your night, the city usually has on display dramas, comedies and musicals. Bela Vista is home to several theaters like Sergio Cardoso (R. Rui Barbosa, 153; 3288-0136), Ruth Escobar (R. Another haven for hungry stomachs in the dos Ingleses, 209; 3289-2358) and Abril The- downtown area is Avanhandava Street. A for- ater (Av. Brig.Luis Antonio, 411; 2846 -6060). mer meeting point of artists, it was revitalized Photo credits: Jair Magri After the spectacle, the right choice for in 2007 and became a boulevard with flower dinner are the Italian cantinas. Roperto (R. 13 beds and a special pavement. Take your time de Maio, 634, Bela Vista; 3288-2573) has four to sample the antipasti and the pasta served lounges and many tables; the highlight on the at Famiglia Mancini (R. Avanhandava, 81, menu is the tasty polpettone, their specialty. Centro, 3255-6599). cityofsaopaulo.com 23
A day for wellness 1© Spa Elements, inside Hotel Tivoli: have a massage in a zen and relaxing environment T hose who say that São Paulo never stops are those who still don’t know where and how to relax here. It is worth seeking a quiet moment in aesthetic medical clinics or even in cosmetic stores. You can also find a little corner of peace within a park or a Japanese restaurant. By day or by night, you may be carried away by the harmony of classical music, which spreads its notes around many corners of the city. 24 cityofsaopaulo.com
a day for wellness Morning It doesn’t matter what your beliefs are. Try to start the day attending a Mass celebrated with Gregorian chants at the Basílica de Nossa Sen- hora da Assunção, in Mosteiro de São Bento (Lgo. de São Bento, s/n, Centro; 3328-8799). This sung Mass is held daily at 7 am on week- days, an hour earlier on Saturdays and every Sunday at 10am. Remember to arrive early if you don’t want to stand in the aisles. When it is over, your body and mind will certainly feel fresh and lighter. A good alternative to have breakfast right there, opposite the monastery, is Café Giron- dino (R. Boa Vista, 365, Centro; 3229-4574). The atmosphere is sober and the decor is inspired in the São Paulo of the beginning of the XX century; the menu features a variety 2© of hot drinks for breakfast, including special coffee blends, as well as juices, fruit salad, Aclimação Park: a place to rest outdoors bread, snacks and sandwiches. You can also shop at the Padaria do Mosteiro, which sells bread, cakes, biscuits and jams. Among the like moving their bodies to achieve a sense of delicacies made by the monks themselves are well-being may head to the Espaço da Antiga gingerbreads filled with strawberry jam and Serraria. There, adepts of Chinese gymnastics loaves of whole grain bread that take brown (information on 3266-5829) meet from Mon- sugar, oat and olive oil. Just don’t commit the day to Saturday at 10:30am. The oriental tech- sin of gluttony. Take everything to the park of nique, known as lian gong, stimulates blood your choice and have a delicious picnic. After circulation, increases stamina and helps to Photo credits: 1© Andréa D’Amato, 2© Jair Magri eating, check if there is any physical activity or correct the posture. Also in Ibirapuera, but meditation scheduled for the day. only on Sundays, at the same place, from Ibirapuera Park offers a place to con- 8 to 9:45 am, it is time for yoga exercises. template and relax the mind: the Pavilhão Other green areas of the city offer yoga les- Japonês (5081-7296). This wooden building, sons: Aclimação Park (R. Muniz de Souza, designed in Japan, has a hall for tea ceremo- 1119, Aclimação; 3208-4042), Severo Gomes nies, and also handicraft workshops. A koi Park (R. Pires de Oliveira, 356, Santo Ama- pond and a traditional Japanese garden com- ro; 5687-4994), Guarapiranga Park (Estr. de plete the atmosphere of tranquility. Guarapiranga, 575, M’Boi Mirim, 5514-6332) Still inside the Ibirapuera, those who feel and Praça Victor Civita (R. Sumidouro, 580, cityofsaopaulo.com 25
Pavilhão Japonês, in Ibirapuera Park: an ornamental garden, a tea room and workshops Pinheiros, 3031-3689). Do not forget to call zen yogurt at Tutti Frutti Frozen Yogurt to check times, for schedules are different at (3266-7383). each location. Save some time in your afternoon to un- dergo a health or beauty treatment at a spe- AFTERNOON cialized clinic in São Paulo. Buddha Spa (R. After spending the morning relaxing your Manuel da Nóbrega, 1944, Ibirapuera; 3052- mind, it’s time to focus on your body. Right 1756; buddhaspa.com.br) offers Ayurvedic beside Trianon Park is the natural restaurant massage and body scrubs, in addition to im- Cheiro Verde (R. Peixoto Gomide, 1078, mersion baths in ofuros. Jardins, 3262-2640), which offers tasty a la At Espaço Girassol (R. Girassol, 602, Vila carte dishes, such as an amazing vegetarian Madalena; 3034-4449; espacogirassol.com. polpettone. If you take a table upstairs near br), the day spa includes aromatherapy, color the windows, your sight will be cheered as therapy and anti-stress massage with essen- you will manage to see the tops of the trees. tial oils, among other options. At Kabanah For a lighter dessert, go to Shopping Pátio Spa (Av. Brig. Luís Antônio, 4442, Ibirapuera, Paulista (R. 13 de Maio, 1947, Bela Vista; 3885-8278; kabanahspa.com.br), treatments 3191-1100) and delight yourself with a fro- are grouped into themed packages such as 26 cityofsaopaulo.com
a day for wellness the traditional Bride’s Day and Spa Day. 3088-6019), the sushi chef after whom the Those looking for more exclusive services restaurant is named, serves only eight people can choose a spa at one of the five star hotels at the counter, while another team remains in in town. At the Hilton Morumbi, the Ama- the kitchen preparing the dishes for custom- zonian Spa (Av. das Nações Unidas, 12901, ers at the tables. Another renowned Japanese Brooklin, 5102-4784) accepts guests and non- restaurant is Aizomê (Al . Fernão Cardim, 39, guests, offering a range of massages, facial Jardins; 3251-5157), where the menu is faithful hydration and skin cleansing, in which prod- to traditions, while accepting some peculiari- ucts are made with raw material from the ties of the international cuisine. Amazon rainforest. Inside the Tivoli Mofarrej, After dinner, you may wish for a more in- you can relax with massages, special hydra- timist suggestion. If you like concerts, check tion and baths with aromatic oils at the Spa the program of the Symphony Orchestra of Elements (Al. Santos, 1437, Jardins; 3146- the State of São Paulo, aka Osesp, whose 6423). An alternative for a relaxation session primary concert venue is Sala São Paulo (Pça outside the clinics is a visit to L’Occitane (R. Júlio Prestes, 16, Luz, 3223-3966). Even if an- Oscar Freire, 731, Jardins; 3061-8586), where other group is performing, this temple of clas- you may purchase some of their excellent sical music deserves a visit for its beauty and cosmetic products that use raw materials di- flawless acoustics. rectly from Provence, in France. Now that your body is feeling great, stop at the Villa-Lobos Park (Av. Prof. Fonseca Rodrigues, 2001, Alto de Pinheiros, 3023- COURSES 0316). In an outdoor area called Espaço Ou- The bustle of the villas, you can sit and listen to the repertoire city calls for re- of Brazilian composer Heitor Villa-Lobos. laxing activities The site has gained new lounge chairs, five for both body and displays and was reopened to the public in soul; therefore, take some time to have lessons on yoga therapy March 2012, when the conductor would be- at Espaço Premma Yoga (R. Maria come 125 years old. Figueiredo, 189, Paraíso, 3283- 0884), located in a charming Evening townhouse just two blocks from Paulista Avenue. If beauty is what The zen atmosphere of Japanese restaurants makes you feel good, visit the in the metropolis has all it takes to provide Payot aesthetic center (R. Borges Photo credit: Carmen Fukunari a cozy place for you. In Kinoshita (R. Jaques Lagoa, 913, Vila Mariana, 5081- Felix, 405, Vila Nova Conceição; 3849-6940), 7790), which offers self make-up lessons and cosmetic procedures the ambiance is modern and chef Tsuyoshi such as lymphatic drainage, wax- Murakami prepares not only sushi, but also ing and eyebrow design. refined dishes from the cuisine of his coun- try. Jun Sakamoto (R. Lisboa, 55, Pinheiros; cityofsaopaulo.com 27
A day for good deals 1© Museu da Língua Portuguesa, in the Luz district: free admission on Saturdays W ho said it is not possible to spend little or almost nothing when it comes to have fun and enjoy the best of São Paulo? The city has great cultural centers that propose free activities, as well as cheap tickets for the theater, cinemas and museums (or free admission on certain days). Not to mention the variety of restaurants and bars, from Downtown to other neighborhoods, offering fine and plentiful food at affordable prices. 28 cityofsaopaulo.com
a day for good deals Morning Língua Portuguesa, Pinacoteca, and Mu- The money-saving way to get around São seu de Arte Sacra, all of which lie in the Luz Paulo is by using a Bilhete Único to pay for the district. On Sunday, you can keep your wallet subway or bus (see how to get one on page 9). untouched if you go to MAM, in Ibirapuera, or Indeed the public transport is the most practi- the Museu da Casa Brasileira (Av. Brig. Faria cal means to get to Centro (Downtown), where Lima, 2705, Jardim Paulistano, 3032-3727). you can start the day frugally. To start off, get into any bakery or coffee shop and order a typi- Afternoon cal São Paulo breakfast that will be right within Concrete, iron frames and the promise of a your budget: bread toasted on the griddle and cultural program as varied as that of the Cen- pingado – or simply coffee and milk. A good tre Georges Pompidou in Paris. These were choice would be Bar Estadão (Viaduto 9 de Jul- the ingredients that gave rise to the São ho, 193, Consolação; 3257-7121), open 24 hours Paulo Cultural Center (R. Vergueiro, 1000, a day, practically every day of the year. If you Paraíso, 3397-4002, centrocultural.sp.gov. prefer something more homey, you may sit at br), opened in 1982. Encrusted on a hillside a colonial table and pick one of the cakes of the beside the Vergueiro subway station, the day at Café do Pateo (Pça. Pátio do Colégio, complex is one of the most popular of the 2, Centro, 3105-6899), housed in the building where the Jesuits founded São Paulo. 2© Nearby, a great place to see free exhibitions is the Banco do Brasil Cultural Center (R. Álva- res Penteado, 112, Centro, 3113-3651). Built in 1901, it was the head office of a major bank in São Paulo. Today, it shelters exhibits of impor- tant names of the fine arts and photography; its amphitheater receives plays, film festivals and other events. Another construction linked to the financial past of the city is the Altino Arantes Building (R. João Brícola, 24, Centro, Photo credit: 1© Jair Magri, 2© Andréa D’Amato 2196-3730), former headquarters of a bank, and one of the postcards of the metropolis. On weekdays, you have free access to the top to admire a beautiful view of São Paulo. Several museums also have free entry on certain days (check the addresses in Must- See Neighborhoods, p. 53). That’s the case of Tuesdays at MASP, on Av. Paulista, and Thurs- days at the Museu do Futebol, in Pacaembu. On Saturdays, entrance is free at Museu da Cantina do Magrão: just a subway-ride away cityofsaopaulo.com 29
capital, thanks to a series of free events and scores, records and other items in a collec- activities, as well as plays and concerts at tion dedicated to classical, popular, national popular prices. and international music. The four libraries it houses are attractions When hunger strikes you, walk or take on their own, especially for researchers and the subway to some restaurant that offers students. The Sérgio Milliet library holds a good value for money. A few blocks from collection of theater plays and several books the Paraíso station is the Tenda do Nilo (R. on Latin American literature, philosophy, re- Cel. Oscar Porto, 638, Paraíso; 3885-0460), ligion, social sciences, and history. The target where the sisters Olinda and Xmune serve a public of the Louis Braille are the visually- hearty vegetable sfiha (Arabic minced meat impaired, who may find adapted computers, pies). On the way to the Consolação station, audio books, textbooks, technical journals the suggestion to spend little is to have a and literature, all in Braille. Inside the Gibi- traditional dinner fare for lunchtime, at O teca Henfil are stored more than 8000 titles Pedaço da Pizza (R. Augusta, 1463, Conso- of comics, fanzines and related books, while lação; 2619-8408). Still on the Green line of the Discoteca Oneyda Alvarenga, created in the subway, but in the opposite direction, 1935 by Mario de Andrade, preserves music take a chance at the Cantina do Magrão Independência Park has French-inspired gardens and shelters the Museu Paulista 30 cityofsaopaulo.com
a day for good deals (R. Agostinho Gomes, 2988, Ipiranga, 2061- 6649), only 600m from the Sacomã station. Courses This very popular bar has reinforced its culi- nary and is now preparing pasta and meats In addition to free con- certs and popular to satisfy any hunger and taste. shopping streets, In this neighborhood, the attraction is the São Paulo also offers Museu Paulista, also known as Museu do courses that cost little – or noth- Ipiranga, which occupies an imposing palace ing. São Paulo Cultural Center (R. Vergueiro, 1000, 3397-4002) offers within Independência Park (Av. Nazareth, s/n, a course with live models, which Ipiranga; 2273-7250). It shelters a collection of consists of drawing and painting objects and documents from the time Brazil lessons based on the observation was an empire – even the mortal remains of of the human figure. The space also offers comics and fanzines Dom Pedro I are there, in the Capela Imperial, workshops, with drawing, writ- inside the Monumento à Independência. If you ing and sequential art classes. need to snack something to line your stomach The participation results in the late in the afternoon, stop by Bar do Nico (R. production of a commemorative fanzine, related to the 30th anni- Moreira e Costa, 538, Ipiranga; 2273-4811) and versary of the complex. enjoy the appetizers. Evening The varied attractions at the SESI Theater (Av. a nice place to have dinner with no surprises in Paulista, 1313, 3146-7405 and 3146-7406) are the bill is Sobaria (R. Áurea, 343, Vila Mariana; good choices for the evening entertainment, 5084-8014), where you can discover the de- since the theatrical and musical performances lights of the cuisine from Mato Grosso do Sul. usually have popular prices or are simply free. Meats and sausages come in hearty servings, In this case, tickets are distributed one hour always accompanied by cassava; the curiosity before the beginning of the presentations. But on the menu is the sobá, a dish of Japanese ori- it’s good to arrive a little earlier, so as not to gin, common in the state due to the influence run the risk of lining up just to see the tickets of Eastern immigrants who went there to work gone before your turn. in local agriculture. The units of SESC (sescsp.org.br), scattered Another option in the region is Innominato around the city, also provide several activities, Osteria (R. Joinville, 56, Vila Mariana; 5571- including exhibitions, lectures, workshops, 9839). Plates of stuffed pasta are enough for Photo credit: Andréa D’ Amato sports activities and many shows on the stag- two, as in most typical Italian cantinas. If you es of their theaters. Keep an eye on the units prefer, sit in the lounge of Baalbeck (Al. Lore- Vila Mariana (R. Pelotas, 141; 5080-3000) and na, 1330, Jardins, 3088-4820) and you’ll find Pompéia (R. Clélia, 93, 3871-7700), which usu- good-quality Arabic dishes like chich barak ally have lots going on. (cooked ravioli with curd) and desserts such as On the surroundings of SESC Vila Mariana, atayef (cream sweet and nuts). cityofsaopaulo.com 31
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