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Winter Adventures in Southern Vermont January/February 2023 $4 Coust C m om pl e r .9 im C en op 9 ta y ry Ride, tube or drift Customize your Vermont outdoor adventure at Stratton Page 46 Pipe dreams Arts venues sustain Brattleboro’s rich organ legacy Page 7 Maple is everywhere Page 12 Say ‘I do’ in the 802 Page 14 Allen Brothers a source of pies, produce and community Page 32 Local becomes tourist: A visit to the American Museum of Fly Fishing Page 51
CO N T R I B U TO R S Bob Audette has been writing for the Brattleboro Reformer for more than 17 President and Publisher years. Before that, he was a beat reporter in the Hudson Valley. He started out his Jordan Brechenser career in journalism as a newsroom clerk for the Salt Lake Tribune, in Salt Lake City. jbrechenser@reformer.com Executive Editor Noah Hoffenberg nhoffenberg@reformer.com Shane Covey has covered 15 different sports in his career, and would love to add Assistant Editor short track speed skating and ultimate fighting to that list. He would also like to Gena Mangiaratti interview WWE star Ronda Rousey and the great Dick Vitale. gmangiaratti@reformer.com Windham County Sales Manager Lylah Wright Gordon Dossett traded the traffic and urban ugliness of Los Angeles for the Green Mountains. He lives with his teenaged children, a cat and a dog, packing lwright@reformer.com urban sprawl into one home. He likes making to-do lists and losing them. Senior Sales Executive Richard Lolatte rlolatte@reformer.com Sales Executives Lex Lecce’s boss has called her a “bulldog” and “crime junkie.” Although she Richard Battista has a BA in English, she relies on autocorrect to spell restaurant. It remains rbattista@reformer.com unclear as to how she’s found so much success as a writer. Bruce Merrill bmerrill@reformer.com Bennington County Bill LeConey is night news editor of Vermont News & Media publications, the Sales Manager Brattleboro Reformer, Bennington Banner and Manchester Journal. He loves all Susan Plaisance kinds of music, especially rock, funk, punk, jamband, reggae, jazz and soul. He’s splaisance from New Jersey (don’t hold that against him) but now lives in Brattleboro with his wife Linda, son Billy, dog Iko and cat Pippi. He hates celery. @benningtonbanner.com Sales Executive Ahmad Yassir Gena Mangiaratti, whose first name rhymes with henna, is arts and entertain- ayassir ment editor for Vermont News & Media. She regularly falls behind on grocery @benningtonbanner.com shopping, which leads to picking up bread from the nearby Vermont Country Deli, which leads to impulse purchases of local wares. She lives in Brattleboro Vermont Country magazine with her cat, Theodora, who can be followed on Twitter, @fedoratheodora. is a publication of Makayla-Courtney McGeeney is a digital marketing consultant and journalist/ photographer. She became a staff writer for the Bennington Banner, Brattleboro Reformer, and Manchester Journal in 2015 and later contributed as a freelancer for Vermont Country Magazine. She consults small businesses in the Northern Berkshires on digital marketing, enjoys lifting weights and keeping up with her two energetic cattle dogs. More about her digital marketing business at mcgeeney.media. Tory Rich just joined the Manchester Journal in September. Though he went to high school in Bennington, 10 years living in the desert has him re-learning how to be a Vermonter the right way. Greg Sukiennik reports on the Northshire of Bennington County for Vermont News & Media. His occupational hazards have included a World Series victory riot in Kenmore Square, climbing up the hull of a moving Coast Guard cutter, and nearly being heaved into the bleachers by a surly donkey who did not find basketball amusing. He spends his free time scouring vinyl record bargain bins and obeying the whims of Cleo, the family cat. On the cover: Stratton Mountain Resort photo Dan Tebo is a Boston-based film critic whose work regularly appears on his All ages can earn their mother’s refrigerator. He works as a waiter and amateur archivist and runs a VHS turn at Stratton Mountain blog with a readership in the high single digits. Resort. Story, page 46. vermontcountry.com | 3
EDITOR’S NOTE In search of serotonin Every year, I wonder why we do Christ- corner stores, staff writer Bob Audette mas and all the stress and preparation spoke with Allen Brothers, a local busi- and finances required of it. Then the sun ness where Vermonters and visitors get sets before I have worked up the courage fresh pies and produce year-round. to be a member of society, and I remem- Though the holidays have passed, ber why: Christmas lights provide light. another winter event to look forward to Now, with the holidays behind us, we still is Brattleboro’s Harris Hill Ski Jump, to have several more weeks of darkness to take place this year Feb. 17 to 19. The make it through. Fortunately, we live in a adrenaline-filled competition is an annual place that offers reliable sources of sero- favorite for locals and tourists alike. In tonin all around, from the historic charm this issue of Vermont Country, our own of Brattleboro as an “organ town,” Shane Covey checks in with local com- explored in this issue by staffer Bill Le- petitor Spencer Knickerbocker. Coney, to maple-flavored lip balm at the Skiing is a popular Vermont pastime that Gena Mangiaratti corner store, tested by me. Speaking of uses our natural landscape. But if hurling Vermont Country Magazine yourself down a mountain doesn’t appeal to you, Vermont Country’s Tory Rich A rose the author made from has compiled a list of other options for recycled newspaper in an effort to exercising while enjoying the outdoors find small joy. in winter months. And correspondent If you prefer to stay home, film critic Makayla-Courtney McGeeney writes of Dan Tebo is back with his takes on an the many opportunities, skiing and other- array of three-hour films and whether wise, awaiting at Stratton Mountain. they are worth the watch. Some people like the Vermont landscape And of course, our resident crime and so much that they make it the backdrop all-things-spooky junkie Lex Lecce is for their wedding. Staff writer Greg Suki- back with a look at the history of spiritu- ennik explores the wedding business in alism in Vermont. Ever hear of Sleeping the region, highlighting some of its most Lucy? The first known trance medium popular venues. in spiritualism came from the Green And staffer Gordon Dossett has taken Mountain State. on the intrepid endeavor of exploring I hope we can provide some help in the region where he lives, but with the seeing the good around us in the dark Gena Mangiaratti eye and enthusiasm of a tourist. One of months that remain. Vermont Country Magazine his first stops was the American Museum of Fly Fishing in Manchester, where he And if you are struggling, I see you. The author celebrating a tiny victory of being able to smell learned that even “fishing bumbler” like Gena Mangiaratti is the arts & entertainment hand sanitizer after contracting himself could appreciate the experience editor of Vermont News & Media and COVID-19 this past fall. and atmosphere. assistant editor of Vermont Country. 4 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
TABLE OF CONTENTS 7 26 Pipe dreams Arts venues sustain Brattleboro’s rich organ legacy By Bill LeConey 14 Say ‘I do’ in the 802 By Greg Sukiennik Not a skier (or snowboarder)? Here are some other ways to enjoy Vermont this winter 51 Local becomes tourist By Tory Rich A visit to the American Museum of Fly Fishing By Gordon Dossett 3 Contributors 12 Maple is everywhere By Gena Mangiaratti 44 Three-hour power: Long films to watch in the comfort of your home 4 Editor’s note By Gena Mangiaratti 30 Hometown favorite to By Dan Tebo 19 Vermont Country Wedding Guide compete at Harris Hill By Shane Covey 46 Ride, tube or drift: Customize your Vermont outdoor adventure at Stratton 35 Vermont 32 Allen Brothers a source of pies, produce and By Makayla-Courtney McGeeney Country Homes community By Bob Audette 49 The rise and fall of spiritualism in Vermont By Lex Lecce vermontcountry.com | 5
Pipe dreams Arts venues sustain Brattleboro’s rich organ legacy Kristopher Radder Vermont Country Magazine Henry Danaher plays the Estey pipe organ at Epsilon Spires in Brattleboro during a monthly organ concert. vermontcountry.com | 7
By Bill LeConey mix — the Estey pipe organ under from around the world, from Taiwan, Vermont Country Magazine Danaher’s masterful control filled the Hong Kong, from Shetland Islands, sanctuary with all of its “personalities.” and from all over the U.S.” BRATTLEBORO — When Henry “It really turns a building into an in- The silent film series has been a hit. Danaher performed a free concert on strument,” Danaher said. “It’s like the Accompanist Ben Model, one of the historic Estey pipe organ at Epsi- whole building is singing. That’s one the top players in the country, has lon Spires on a weekday afternoon in thing that’s special about the organ. I provided live pipe organ soundtracks December, he wasn’t merely “tickling really feel like you’re inhabiting it for to Fritz Lang’s “Metropolis” (1927), the ivories” on joyous advent cho- a while.” and the Buster Keaton films “The rales of the holiday season. General” and “Steamboat Bill Jr.” The massive pipe organ is vital to He was actually building upon a tradi- Epsilon Spires, originally the town’s Model plans to return this spring for tion and legacy unique to Brattleboro. First Baptist Church, which bills a screening of “Safety Last!” starring It was almost as if the founders of itself as “a center of communica- Harold Lloyd. the Estey Organ Company — which tion, illuminating the relationships World-renowned organist Dennis transformed this Southern Vermont between creative arts, natural sciences James is also returning to Epsilon town into a manufacturing mecca of and sustainability using multimedia Spires in March for a suspense pro- the instrument more than 150 years platforms” (epsilonspires.org). The gram showcasing silent films by Alfred ago — were looking down in approv- arts venue features the organ in Hitchcock. In October, James per- al, and admiring their own handiwork everything from experimental drone formed a live soundtrack on the Estey still in use all these years later. performances to monthly classical for the centennial celebration of F.W. concerts to silent film accompani- Murnau’s silent classic “Nosferatu.” “With instruments like these, it’s kind ment — which is appropriate, since of like a conversation,” said Danaher, many of the Estey organs were key Epsilon Spires has also featured per- the director of music at the Church fixtures in movie theaters during the formers like experimental Canadian of Christ at Dartmouth College in era of silent films. composer Sarah Davachi — who pro- Hanover, N.H. “The instrument really vided immersive deep listening in the determines the tempo and the register, “There’s such a wide range of sounds sanctuary with performances on pipe and every instrument is completely that it can produce,” said Epsilon organ, strings and pedal steel drones. another personality, so you have to re- Spires director Jamie Mohr. “We try to have a wide variety, and you get It’s hard to imagine the company’s discover the music that you’ve learned founder, Jacob Estey, a former and think about it in a new way.” to see all the different characters that can come out of that. A lot of plumber, envisioning those sounds Several of the pieces that Danaher the organists are very excited about when he purchased a bankrupt played that day were written during the building their own program where Brattleboro company in 1850 that era when the Estey organ at Epsilon they can show their own influences, made melodeons, a category of reed Spires was built, in 1906. At times where it can range from very old and instruments that includes accordions. soothing and soft, at times boister- Baroque, to modern and everything Together with his relatives, Estey ous and dramatic — with percussive in between, and sometimes in the took the business from a failing chimes adding bursts of color to the same show. And we’ve had organists endeavor and built it into what would eventually become the largest man- ufacturer of reed and pipe organs in the world. An entire neighborhood (called Esteyville) sprung up around the large factory complex in Brattleboro, which included over 20 buildings of unique slate architecture, now listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. One of the buildings now houses the Estey Organ Museum, which is open from May through October and features many of the company’s “artifacts,” some of which are still operable. Its website is esteyorganmuseum.org. The Estey Company employed a large workforce, many of whom were highly specialized craftsmen, including woodcarvers, designers, engineers and Photo provided by Brattleboro Historical Society inventors from Europe. Estey pro- An Estey Company organ is transported by horse-drawn carriage in the duced more than 500,000 reed organs early 1900s. and 3,000 pipe organs 8 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
before closing its doors in 1960. If the company had taken advantage of the switch to electronic synthesizers earli- er, Estey may have bridged the divide quicker and continued operations. The Esteys were original founders of the First Baptist Church (now Epsi- lon Spires), and the “Sanctuary Or- gan” was given as a gift to the church in memory of Jacob’s son, Julius. The organ was revised (electrified) in 1958, but its tonal features remain, for the most part, untouched. The company offered its products at cost to local churches, in part to serve as examples of the quality of the product and hopefully increase sales. Often, the organs became inseparable from the buildings in which they were housed. Such is the case with the Opus 300 at Epsilon Spires. “You know, it’s got a mystical sound. It’s kind of got like a mammoth feeling to it,” Danaher said. “And I feel like playing the organ’s a little bit of an untapped resource, you know. Especially since there are so many instruments waiting to be played ev- erywhere. And I’m just grateful that some folks have decided to maintain this and make this concert possible. I’m lucky.” There are other Estey organs still in use in Brattleboro, and throughout New England, but none serves as di- verse a purpose as the one at Epsilon Spires. That’s an inspiration to Robin Johnson, owner and general manag- er of the nearby Stone Church, the remarkable and handsome “high Vic- Kristopher Radder — Vermont Country Magazine torian” Gothic building that is now Robin Johnson, the owner of The Stone Church, poses near the Estey one of the premier concert venues in pipe organ inside his Brattleboro music venue. New England. The Stone Church was built in 1875 ton of unused square footage behind digitize it — build a new console and by the Unitarian Congregational Soci- there and below, where the blower is, plug it in and play it like a MIDI (Mu- ety, and it houses an Estey pipe organ a giant motor that pumps air through sical Instrument Digital Interface).” that was originally installed in 1914 it. So, it’s like all this great space we Johnson said musicians who come in and rebuilt in 1948. The Estey organ could use. But we can’t quite give up to The Stone Church for concerts, is not currently operable, but Johnson on the dream of making it work, so especially keyboardists, ask him about would like to change that. that’s why it stays as is.” the pipe organ all the time. “It’s one of the coolest features we Johnson said local pipe organ expert “It’s a pretty standard question. A lot have. It would be great to use it and Larry Nevin, who also maintains the of times they’ll say, ‘This may be a to revive it. It’s the thing that peo- Epsilon Spires organ, has thorough- funny question, but,’ ... and we just ple ask about first, so that’s why it’s ly studied The Stone Church Estey cut them off. ‘No, it doesn’t work.’ I always remained on our minds,” said and reported that the organ “works” don’t even wait for the question any Johnson, whose family refurbished themselves are not in bad shape. more,” he said with a laugh. the old All Souls Unitarian Church as “I don’t think it would be ridiculous a concert venue in 2016. Some day, the question may get an money because we wouldn’t try to affirmative answer. And the legacy “The thing we toy with sometimes is restore the old console,” Johnson of the Estey Organ Company will that, if we’re not going to do it, it’s a said. “What we would probably do is continue for generations to come. vermontcountry.com | 9
Ex-Goose keyboardist to launch funk ‘residency’ at Stone Church By Bill LeConey in America,” likening it to a 1950s Vermont Country Magazine refrigerator. “It’s kind of amazing, really. It was BRATTLEBORO — Keyboardist like the competitor of the pipe Kris Yunker has played all sorts of organ. The pump organ was made organs and pianos, from vintage for homes so you can have kind of Fender Rhodes, Ludwigs and his the pipe sound because it’s got reeds beloved Hammond A100, to modern in it, but the Hammond organ was synthesizers hooked up with MIDI the first electric organ made to just technology. But the only instrument be a stand-in for pipe organs for that really “scared” him was a church churches that couldn’t afford the pipe organ he dabbled with as a large pipe organs. And then this guy youngster growing up in Texas. built a Leslie speaker for it to toss the “I was just playing a couple of notes, sound around. Even though Ham- and I felt the power wielded by it and mond didn’t want his organ sold that it was, like, kind of frightening,” said way, the instrument just became an Yunker. “I was like, ‘Oh my god, I iconic piece of American music, rock don’t know what to do with this.’” and roll, all music over the ages. It’s become an iconic piece for that.” He long ago overcame any fears and has gone on to a stellar keyboard Keyboardist Kris Yunker toys with Originally from Indiana, Yunker has career, but he remains intrigued by the the vintage Estey player pipe lived all over the country, including idea of mastering an instrument such organ at the old Shriners Club lengthy stops in Texas, Hawaii and as the Estey pipe organ at The Stone building in Brattleboro. Santa Cruz, California. He settled in Church in Brattleboro. And he may Southern Vermont partly because musical “brother,” guitarist Danny one his musical partners, Alan Evans, just get the chance: in February, Yunk- Mayer), Jen Durkin and the Business, er will begin a monthly afro-funk-soul has a studio in Irving, Mass., but also Wubakia and many others, Yunker because the town of Brattleboro “residency” at the Church, one of the has been rising in the music scene top concert venues in New England. “spoke to him.” with a very unique style that includes He plans to bring in special guests, rich and soulful soundscapes along- “I wanted to be close enough to the including former American Idol side heavy grooves from his left hand city but also in nature, because I do finalist Elise Testone, Boston-based bass lines. Influenced by the likes of better and feel more inspired when- soul singer Toussaint the Liberator, legendary jazz keyboardists such as ever I’m in a more natural surround- members of the Connecticut funk- Oscar Peterson and Herbie Hancock, ing. And also I love the community rock band Deep Banana Blackout, as well as rock and funk pioneers of Brattleboro and it surely has great, and maybe even members of his ever such as Stevie Wonder, Ray Manza- conscious-minded people.” more popular former band, Goose, rek and John Medeski, he eventually Yunker is currently recording and currently challenging Phish at the top became hooked on the Hammond, giving lessons in a studio at the old of the jam band mountain. which he calls the “focal point” of Shriners Club building in Brattleboro, “I was talking with (Stone Church his extensive live gig array. which owner Steve Heim is convert- owner) Robin (Johnson) about it, and “I always have the Hammond, and ing into a hub for music recording I thought it would be good to get then I’ll add different keyboards and performance. The space also a funk night going in Brattleboro,” around that,” he said, “whether it’s includes an old Estey player organ, said Yunker, who lives in Guilford. “I a MIDI controller for bass, or other which fits perfectly with Yunker’s think there used to be one at the old sounds that I use on my computer, passion for vintage instruments. Metropolis (Wine Bar), but I thought or I’ll bring in a clavinet. Sometimes Yunker toured with Goose for about it’d be great to get it into the Church, I’ll bring a Rhodes. It just depends on a year, in 2016, right before they which is a really cool spot. We’ll start the gig. I pick and choose my hefty started “picking up steam,” as he puts off with trying it as a monthly thing, instruments. They all weigh a lot, and it. He remains friends with them, the first Wednesday of every month, they’re vintage, so they require main- especially percussionist Jeff Areva- and if it starts going off we might tenance inevitably, so I’m picky and lo, and doesn’t resent their current want to turn it into a weekly thing.” choosey about what I take out.” success at all. As the keyboardist for Alan Evans Yunker calls the Hammond organ “That’s so cool, I’m really happy for Trio, On The Spot Trio (with his “one of the toughest built things ever those guys. They definitely deserve it.” 10 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
By Gena Mangiaratti Vermont Country Magazine BENNINGTON — Vermonters know maple isn’t just for pancakes. Turns out, it even transcends food. When I spotted lip balm made with “100% Pure Vermont Maple Syrup” near the checkout at Vermont Coun- try Deli, the popular tourist stop that is also my corner store, I was imme- diately intrigued. There’s something about the natural sweetener that appeals to my senses (It’s also of mythical origins, by the way: It comes from trees!). Vermont Maple Beak Balm, I learned, is made by Jenny Wren, of North Bennington, called “the village” by locals. The tube is decorated with artwork of maple leaves around the top and bottom, framing a small, round bird wearing a red bandana. A visit to wrenhouse.com reveals that Wren creates needle-felted sculptures of small forest creatures such as birds and mice and chipmunks. She pho- Maple is tographs and draws her creations in natural and whimsical settings, such as in front of a covered bridge and holding maple syrup. “I’ve always been interested in nat- everywhere ural products and making my own things,” Wren said by phone. “And I always made my own lip balm. After giving it to friends and family and stuff, I was encouraged to, maybe, take it further afield.” She started Wrenhouse in 2005 with ... in lip balm and more original note cards and handcrafted jewelry. At that time, she lived in Maine, so the first flavored lip balm she sold was blueberry. “When I came back to Vermont, I was like, ‘Oh, I should do some maple stuff,’” she recalled. “And that really took off. People really respond- ed very happily to that flavor.” The Beak Balm ingredients are sweet almond oil, coconut oil, beeswax, avocado oil, cocoa seed butter, shea butter, stevia leaf extract, organic natural maple flavor and 100 percent pure Vermont maple syrup. “It’s really all natural. There’s no chemicals in it at all,” Wren noted. Photo provided by Laura Greve She said people have asked her if she “One of my nephews literally uses them as a hockey puck. They’re very makes sunscreen lip balm. She does sturdy,” Laura Greve said of her birch wood coasters. not, because she would need to add 12 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
Photo provided by Jenny Wren Jenny Wren photographs her needle-felted sculptures in natural and whimsical settings — and holding her maple lip balm. chemical additives as a sun pro- Photo provided by Laura Greve tectant. “Those chemical additives are Some of Laura Greve’s coasters include birch bark hearts placed in the really not the best thing to be putting middle of the maple leaf. “It was an idea my sister actually had, kind of on your lips, because what you put on like, ‘My heart is in Vermont,’” she said. your lips is going into your body.” Wren said she uses her product artwork of Laura Greve, who grew Vermont maple burls (those knobby herself, sometimes smearing it on her up in the Brattleboro area and now sections of tree trunks) to create chapped knuckles. lives in Central Vermont. Among her you a one-of-a-kind coffee table. creations are birch wood coasters His hand-turned maple bowls cost “This is all very skin-safe, natural with red maple leaves lacquered on way less. Check them out at andrew- stuff that you can feel good about — very Vermont, and also reminis- pearcebowls.com. putting on your skin.” cent of the Canadian flag. Up in Middlebury, Maple Landmark I have found that my tube is lasting “I was lacquering coasters one day, (maplelandmark.com) is making all for a while — yes, because I hav- and I was like, I should put leaves manner of toys out of maple. As dura- en’t lost it, and nobody has sent it inside of this,” Greve said, adding ble as they are functional, these quaint through the wash — and also because lightheartedly, “One of my nephews and natural items make for a gift that it works well. After using it, my lips literally uses them as a hockey puck. will stay out of the landfill, where so aren’t chapped ... until another run of They’re very sturdy.” many plastic junk toys end up. dry weather or nose-blowing. Beak Her work, which also includes candles For an item enjoyable for any age, Balm has a light taste and scent of and pebble art — images put together Vermont Woodshop’s Randy Cross- maple, too. I asked Wren if there are with small rocks and other elements man turns native Green Mountain any healing properties in the maple. from nature — can be found and hardwoods into heirloom quality “Maple syrup is a natural product. It ordered via her Facebook page, pieces, such as his maple carou- has trace minerals and stuff if you “Greve’s Grove Art.” She also makes sel. Using hand planes, scroll saws, ingest it. I’m not sure if it does any- appearances at Vermont craft fairs. steam bending and hand chiseling thing specific,” Wren told me. “Topi- Some of her coasters include birch techniques, Crossman employs old cally, more of what’s happening is the bark hearts placed in the middle of techniques to produce modern gifts, special blend of oils and fats that are the maple leaf. signs, toys and games, many from the used in my recipe are really good in maple. Visit vermontwoodshop.com terms of locking in the moisture.” “It was an idea my sister actually had, to see Crossman’s puzzles, sleds and kind of like, ‘My heart is in Ver- cutting boards. The maple lip balm and other work mont,’” Greve said. by Wren can be found at wrenhouse. Of course, if these maple-y things com, as well as at local shops. Maple everything aren’t doing it for you, you can The mighty maple can be functional always go back to the syrup Sturdy maple coasters art, too. If you have a spare $20,000, (vermontmaplesyrup.com, a Ver- Another non-food maple product Taftsville artist and craftsman mont Country Magazine sister I recently learned about was the Andrew Pearce will personally pick company, isn’t a bad place to start). vermontcountry.com | 13
Say ‘I do’ in the 802 Places to choose from, and how the wedding industry helps Vermont 14 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
By Greg Sukiennik Manchester, according to Robert Vermont Country Magazine Booth, the historic hotel’s director of sales. The same is true for The Wil- MANCHESTER — Who wouldn’t burton, said Tajlei Levis, the historic want to get married in Southern inn’s director of weddings and special Vermont? events. Whether it’s amid the splendor of “It’s very nice knowing our summer’s fall colors, intense summer greens basically sold out,” said Levis, whose or even the dazzling white of win- family has operated and owns the ter frost, there’s something about historic mansion overlooking the the region’s charming small towns, Green Mountains for 35 years. “Most breathtaking mountain landscapes every weekend is already booked. … and enchanting rustic pastures that I know how much staff we need. I makes lasting memories for couples know a lot way in advance.” and their guests. While the Northshire is just one slice Consider Manchester, a commercial of Southern Vermont, its variety of ac- and education hub of 4,500 on the commodations — from quaint inns to Battenkill River, wedged in a narrow grand hotels — speaks to the range of valley between the Green Mountains options available to couples when they and the Taconic Range in the North- choose the region for their big day. shire of Bennington County. While prices and settings vary, the Most think of Manchester as a thing that gets folks in the door and four-season resort town, thanks to keeps them here is Vermont itself, in its historic links to fly fishing, golf, all its splendor. Every innkeeper and hotel manager we talked to said the skiing, restaurants and shopping. same thing: Couples usually have some But Manchester has another claim connection to the state when they to fame, one that’s also an economic plan a wedding here, whether it was a engine for the region: Every week- vacation house, an annual ski trip, or a end, visitors arrive here as nervous family member or friend’s wedding. engaged couples and leave as happy newlyweds. “There are lots of reasons why they come to Southern Vermont. A lot “It’s important to the region, and it of the ones I hear are ‘I went to provides predictability,” said Steven school in Vermont or spent sum- Bryant, whose hospitality group in- mers here,’ or ‘My grandparents cludes The Dorset Inn, The Barrows have a second home here,’” Booth House and the Old Gray Barn, in said. “We hear ‘We want to be here. addition to several restaurants in the It’s beautiful.’” region. “If someone commits to a wedding, they’re going to come up Saying “I do” in the 802 has econom- here. The transient guest may cancel. ic benefits, as well. In addition to the Weddings are committing six months hotels, inns, bed and breakfasts and to a year in advance. It allows for the employees, a good many vendors, better planning for everything.” retailers and service providers — bartenders, florists, servers, photogra- In 2021, Manchester Town Clerk Anita phers, caterers, hairdressers, musi- Sheldon issued 145 marriage licenses. cians and DJs among them — can Just 24 of those went to residents; the make a living from serving couples remainder went to out-of-state couples, on their big day. mostly from New York, Massachusetts “Let’s say you have 200 people for a and Connecticut. The remainder went wedding,” said Carmine Cole, private to couples from 16 other states and functions director at Hildene, The Washington, D.C., and from as far away Lincoln Family Home, in Manchester. as Oregon and Arizona. “Those 200 people are in town at Weddings are half of the annual local hotels, motels, inns and Airbnbs. banquet and catering business for The Those 200 people are eating several Equinox Golf Resort and Spa in meals a day outside of the one they Photo provided by Andy Duback Hildene, The Lincoln Family Home, in Manchester, can provide a picture-perfect backdrop for newlyweds. vermontcountry.com | 15
get at Hildene, not to mention all of weddings for revenue that helps care craving that nostalgia, that Norman them shopping in town, as well.” for the 35-room mansion. It hosts Rockwell fantasy.” In a letter to Gov. Scott during the 15 to 20 weddings a year, according Many venues can and will host wed- pandemic, the Vermont Association to Jeanne Mintrone, the nonprofit’s dings year-round, but the majority of Wedding Professionals estimated event and tour group manager. report that fall and summer are the that the state’s wedding industry is “We’re turning away bookings for most-requested seasons, in that order, worth $164 million per year. October. We’re booked through 2024 and gear up accordingly. The 36 weddings hosted annually at already, and September is right be- “It’s funny how many times we get Hildene, Robert Todd Lincoln’s fam- hind. Fall has been way more popular a wedding asking for September and ily estate, account for about $400,000 than summer,” Mintrone said. October, asking us, ‘Can you tell me in revenue for the nonprofit’s $3 “A lot of it is the natural beauty exactly when the leaves are going to million operating budget, according of the area,” Booth said. “They do change?’” Booth said with a laugh. to its president, Brian Keefe. That’s want to be outside. I would say the That said: When the mountains are part of the reason that the Friends of Equinox Pond Pavilion is the most shrouded and frost and the trees are Hildene are replacing a quasi-perma- requested site we have — nearly coated in snow and ice, the effect is ment event tent with Lincoln Hall, a every wedding wants to take pictures magical, Booth said. Last year, after 14,000-square-foot building that will up at the pond. When you have that an ice storm, “the pictures they took also offer year-round event space for backdrop, the photos are stunning.” of the trees sparkled. Everything was educational programming and food “I think there’s something cozy that coated in diamonds,” he said. “We service operations. builds into the Vermont brand,” tell people, don’t shy away — it’s a Down Route 7A in North Benning- Bryant said, noting that the region magical time of year to be here.” ton, the Park-McCullough Historic is only a four-hour drive from the Weddings involve a lot of mov- Governor’s Mansion also relies upon New York metro area. “People are ing parts. Fortunately, for couples Photo provided by Julia Luckett Photography The Wilburton’s rural campus provides a beautiful escape for newlyweds and their guests. Next page: Photo provided by Andy Madea “People really appreciate that everything is one place,” said Tajlei Levis, The Wilburton’s director of weddings and special events. 16 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
“The world’s kind of chewed up, and they see Vermont as a safe place.” — Tajlei Levis, director of weddings and special events, The Wilburton vermontcountry.com | 17
Other wedding venues in the region Alyson’s Orchard 57 Alyson’s Lane, Walpole, N.H. 603-756-9800 alysonsorchard.com/ wedding-overview The Grafton Inn 92 Main St., Grafton, Vt. 802-843-2248 graftoninnvermont.com/ southern-vermont-weddings Scott Farm Orchard 707 Kipling Road, Dummerston, Vt. 802-254-6868 scottfarmvermont.com/weddings Southern Vermont Arts Center 860 SVAC Drive/West Road Manchester, Vt. 802-362-1405 svac.org/rentals Stratton Mountain Resort 5 Village Lodge Road Stratton Mountain, Vt. 802-297-4000 stratton.com/plan-your-trip/ Hannah Photography groups-and-weddings/weddings Southern Vermont Arts Center in Manchester is on a 103-acre campus. wanting to get married in Southern The Wilburton’s rural campus. “They on-site ceremony, a complimentary Vermont, local venues and vendors can have a welcome party on Friday one-night suite stay, a three-course have a lot of practice at making sure night, a bonfire … the ceremony, dinner at The Copper Grouse, com- the details are just right for the cou- cocktail hour and reception can all plete with Champagne toast and more. ple, the family and their friends. Area be outdoors, and 100 guests can stay hotels and inns pride themselves on here, so nobody has to drive. Once For Peggy Brockett and Briana being “one-stop shopping” for cou- you’re here, there’s space to connect Wilkins at The Lily of the Valley ples — whether they can offer onsite in a lot of different ways.” Florist in Manchester, which gets activities, have a list of preferred 95 percent of its business through Bryant has also noticed how a shared weddings, the challenge of personal- vendors to choose from, or simply destination brings families and suggest things to see and do until the izing arrangements for each couple is friends together. big moment arrives. rewarding. “There’s something about a desti- At the Equinox, the resort is large nation wedding that resonates. It’s “Bringing their vision to life and enough to accommodate multiple multigenerational,” he said. “Vermont being such an important part of events during the weekend, whether as a whole is within a four-hour drive their wedding day. Those are pho- it’s cocktails on the veranda, spa treat- for a lot of people. The world’s kind tos they’re going to have forever,” ments for the bridal party, or a round of chewed up, and they see Vermont Wilkins said. of golf. “It makes it very simple for as a safe place.” “That reaction, that feedback from the couple to plan one point of con- What if you want to bring no guests them is the best part,” Brockett said tact,” Booth said. at all? The Kimpton Taconic Motel’s of making couples happy. “When “People really appreciate that ev- website offers an “Escape to Elope” you can bring someone’s dream to erything is one place,” Levis said of package that includes an officiant, an fruition, it’s a good feeling.” 18 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
The Vermont Country Wedding Guide Vendors and venues in Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
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Vermont Country Magazine file photo People enjoy the fresh snow while sledding at Living Memorial Park, in Brattleboro, in February 2021. 26 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
Not a skier (or snowboarder)? Here are some other ways to enjoy Vermont this winter By Tory Rich to not fishing or hunting, I’ve never people that I’m a native, but I don’t Vermont Country Magazine participated in the snow sports. You ski, the response is usually visible see, I wrestled in high school. For the confusion, as if I told them I didn’t It’s no secret that Vermont is home uninitiated, that meant that during have my driver’s license. to some of the best skiing and snow- the winter I was booked all Saturday, boarding in the country. We’re just set every Saturday, and in bed until about “[Shrug] It just … never happened.” up for that sort of thing around here. noon every Sunday. I aim to change that and join the club The governor’s office even made Between being stationed in Yuma, at some point this winter. I don’t things official in 2012, declaring ski- Ariz., in the Marines followed by a exactly know how it works, but I can’t ing and snowboarding as the sports five-year stint living in Las Vegas, I help but imagine myself on the bun- of the Green Mountain State. spent most of my 20s living in the ny slopes with a bunch of elementary I have joked for years now that I am desert. I’ve been back in Vermont schoolers, like a repackaged version the worst Vermonter ever. In addition for about four years now. When I tell of “Billy Madison.” But I digress. People pull their sleds up one of the hills at Willow Park in Bennington. Vermont Country Magazine file photo vermontcountry.com | 27
Vermont Country Magazine file photo Anna and Gil Rosenberg, from Brattleboro, enjoy cross-country skiing at the Brattleboro Country Club, in January 2022. So whether you’re a local like me and for launching yourself down a hill in own hill. If you’re willing to pay a just never found the time to learn, a low-friction vehicle of some kind little extra, ski resorts like Mt. Snow or just visiting and seeking a way is quite high, and it’s a great family in West Dover or Magic Mountain in to break up a week on the slopes, activity. Between $10 and $20 will get Londonderry offer trails for tubes, you might find yourself looking for you an adequate chunk of plastic to as well, which also means lifts to take another way to spend your day in our glide downhill on. Or, if your body you back to the top. fine state. Without any further ado, requires something with a little more I give you my list of the best ways give to it, tubes are available with Snowshoeing and to stay active in Vermont that aren’t most retailers for just a bit more. cross-country skiing skiing or snowboarding. Going sledding or tubing is a great fam- Vermont might be known for being ily activity sure to keep a smile not just most picturesque in foliage season, Sledding or tubing on your kids’ faces, but yours, as well. but there is no shortage of stunning If you’ve got a need for speed, skiing There’s even a hard work/reward dy- views to be had from December and snowboarding aren’t the only way namic to it. Kids will be hustling back through March. If you seek a place to to put Vermont’s mountains and hills up the hill for “just one more time,” quiet your mind and get some rest for to good use. If you find the invest- and you might just forget yourself that your soul, Vermont might be second ment of time and money in lessons to none. There’s a catch, though, you’re getting quite a bit of exercise as as you’ll probably have to find that and equipment to be less than palat- you work your way back to the top for peace on foot. It’s worth the trip to able, tubing or sledding are excellent another boost of adrenaline. those spots where once your feet stop alternatives. Of course, that’s if you’re going the crunching the snow, you can’t hear a The fun-to-skill level required ratio old-school route and finding your single sound. 28 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
Vermont Country Magazine file photo Christine Koenig and Jane MacKugler play a game of pickleball at the Manchester recreation park. Snowshoes or cross-country skis own trail (and be able to walk freely pingpong ball, you use a whiffle ball. make traversing snow a much more with your dog), there are plenty of This makes for a fast-paced game and enjoyable and efficient experience, spots to explore, free of charge. an excellent workout. but it’s still fantastic cardio! Both Among my personal favorites are the While the skillset for both tennis activities burn about 500 calories per hills on the old Southern Vermont and pickleball is similar, the learning hour for a 180-pound adult, which is College campus. curve is a lot shorter for the latter. nothing to sneeze at. Pickleball courts are roughly a quarter There are those weird winters where Pickleball of the size of tennis courts, making there isn’t much snow on the ground If you haven’t heard of pickleball yet, spaces to play easier to find. at lower elevations. In that case, you will. It’s the fastest growing sport Less ground to cover means less I’ll borrow the premise of Mitch in the country. If you like tennis, mobility is required, and it generally Hedberg’s old joke about escalators: or squash, or badminton — or any comes down to a battle of reflexes “Snowshoeing is now temporarily of the racket sports — you’ll love and accuracy versus speed and power. hiking … sorry for the convenience.” pickleball. Even the way the relatively This makes it a great activity for all Most of the time, though, snow new sport was named is fun; Most ac- ages; seeing players in their 70s and on the ground isn’t going to be an counts say “Pickles” was the name of 80s isn’t at all uncommon. issue. If you aren’t sold on buying the inventor’s family dog that would steal the ball and run off with it. As the sport continues to catch on, your own pair, check out resorts like pickleball courts (and opponents) are Stratton Mountain, where skis or While there are a few nuances that only getting easier to find. Multiple snowshoes are available for $38 a day are easy to pick up after a few games, locations are listed for Bennington, ($28 for kids 12 and under), as well as I liken pickleball to pingpong, but Brattleboro and Manchester for plac- a small fee to use the trails. instead of standing behind the table, es to play at places2play.org/state/ However, if you want to blaze your you’re standing on it. Instead of a vermont. vermontcountry.com | 29
Hometown favorite to compete at Harris Hill Vermont Country Magazine file photo Spencer Knickerbocker takes the first-ever attempt on the new Harris Hill Ski Jump in Brattleboro in 2009. By Shane Covey top of the hill, have your name Knickerbocker is best known for be- Vermont Country Magazine announced, and hear the roar of the ing the first to use Harris Hill’s brand crowd. It’s pretty surreal.” new 90-meter jump in 2009. BRATTLEBORO — Each winter Knickerbocker is the hometown “I was only 16 at the time, so I was in Brattleboro, a couple of legends pretty nervous. It was a huge honor to are generally spotted traveling high favorite each year, having started out in Memorial Park’s Junior Jump- be asked to take the inaugural jump.” in the sky. ing program in 2004 and going to He explained that it’s important to One is Santa Claus. Brattleboro Union High School from stay calm and relaxed prior to each The other is Spencer Knickerbocker. 2008 to 2009. attempt. “I always tell people that I’m re- In front of a record crowd last Feb- “You’re definitely a little nervous and tired,” Knickerbocker joked on Dec. ruary, he was one of 41 jumpers at then you’re just focusing on a good 2. “I will compete again. You can the event’s 100th anniversary celebra- jump. When you have a good jump, lock it in.” tion. The competitors came from as it’s one of the coolest feelings ever. It The 30-year-old was referring to the far away as Alaska, Colorado, Nor- feels like you are flying.” 2023 Harris Hill Ski Jump, set for way, Iceland and Slovenia. Knickerbocker, the executive di- Feb. 17 to 19. This will be his 14th “I compete in the Masters Class rector of the Marlboro Nordic Ski straight competition. now, so it’s a lot of fun and there’s Club, soared 74.5 and then 84 meters “It’s pretty incredible to be up on no pressure.” on day one of the 2022 competition. 30 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
His Sunday jumps measured 79.5 family, with food, music, souvenirs Harris Hill appearances, the home- and 82 meters. and a beer tent. town favorite has seen: U.S. jumpers “It’s the only time I jump each year,” The five judges will be scoring the sweep the podium (2012), the first he pointed out. “I’m pretty active in jumpers on total distance and their Japanese competitor (2013), five-de- general. I cross-country ski a lot, I style, all the way from the take-off to gree temps (2015), Slovenian Blaz run in the non-winter months, and I Pavlik’s record 104-meter leap (2017), the landing and out-run. also do some slalom water skiing.” a Nordic combined event added “I try to keep to myself, but I also (2018), three female judges (2019), a More than 40 of the world’s top like saying ‘hi’ to the people I know cancellation due to COVID-19 (2021) up-and-coming male and female ski there,” the local hero noted. and the Centennial celebration (2022). jumpers from the U.S. and Eu- rope are scheduled to compete in There were 5,400 fans for the 2009 In 2023, he will witness some night the 101st Harris Hill Ski Jumping event, which is when Knickerbocker competition for the first time — on Competition. The event will have was the first to fly off the newly reno- Feb. 17, a target jump under the newly a festive atmosphere for the whole vated jump. During his streak of installed lights will be the main event. If You Go 2023 Harris Hill Ski Jump Sponsored by Pepsi Feb. 17-19 Cedar Street in Brattleboro Feb. 17: Inaugural Night Competition. Gates open at 5 p.m., Opening Ceremonies at 6:45 p.m., Target Jump Competition at 7 p.m. Feb. 18: Pepsi Challenge & US Cup. Gates open at 10 a.m., Opening Ceremonies at 11:15 a.m., compe- tition begins at noon, awards ceremony following event at the base of Harris Hill. Feb. 19: Fred Harris Memorial Tournament. Cross-country ski race at Marlboro Nordic Center at 9 a.m., Harris Hill gates open at 10 a.m., Opening Ceremonies at 11:15 a.m., competition begins at noon, Vermont Country Magazine file photo awards following event at the base of Harris Hill. Spencer Knickerbocker waits with fellow skiers for the Opening Ceremonies of the 93rd Harris Hill Ski Jump in Tickets: $20 for adults, $15 for ages 6-12 (buy Brattleboro. online at brownpapertickets.com/event/5624694). Vermont Country Magazine file photo Despite temperatures in the 20s and snow squalls throughout the day, a record crowd showed up for the 100th anniversary celebration Vermont Country Magazine file photo last February. Young fans check out the action during the 2022 event in Brattleboro. vermontcountry.com | 31
Fresh Vermont, all year-round Allen Brothers a source of pies, produce and community Kristopher Radder — Vermont Country Magazine Denny Searles pushes the apples through a washer before they go through the grinder as they make fresh apple cider in 2018. By Bob Audette them on a shelf for the people from scratch and making sure there Vermont Country Magazine that say ‘Oh, Allen Brothers has are plenty of cider doughnuts ready pies every day. Let’s go get one,’” for when the farm store’s doors WESTMINSTER — At just before said Stacey Allen, who co-owns open at 6 a.m. 4 a.m. each day, three people arrive Allen Brothers with her husband, “A little after 6 a.m., all of our at Allen Brothers on Route 5 to get Tim Allen. booths are filled with all of the local the pie ovens warmed up in prepara- In addition to the dozens and doz- people that come and have their tion for the day’s business. ens of fruit pies they bake everyday, coffee and doughnuts and break- “We have to cook enough to have the cooks are also making bread fast,” said Stacey. 32 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
Kristopher Radder — Vermont Country Magazine This page, clockwise from top left: Tom Samaniego, of Alyson’s Orchard, fills half-gallons of cider with help from Allen Brothers to press apples. Russell Allen, one of the four brothers who founded Allen Brothers in West- minster, shows the inside of some apple flowers in 2021, to see if there will be a crop that year. Stacy and Tim Allen, owners of Allen Brothers in Westminster. Yanniel Gale, a worker from Jamaica, helps pick pumpkins at Allen Brothers Farms in 2015. Workers at Allen Brothers in Westminster press apples for fresh apple cider in2018. vermontcountry.com | 33
As the morning turns into lunch- time, people filter through, grabbing a sandwich or one of the prepared specials, like stromboli, mac and cheese, fried chicken or pizza. Others might grab some prepared food, like a shepherd’s pie, from the frozen food section. Allen Brothers Farmstand was es- tablished in the early 1950s by Tim’s father and three uncles. In the early 1980s, Tim took over the business and began to expand it beyond its origins as a farm stand. “Within a short period of time, Tim realized that in order to be a year- round, profitable business, he need- ed to expand,” said Stacey. “One of Kristopher Radder — Vermont Country Magazine his first ideas was for the bakery and Stacey Allen, an owner of Allen Brothers in Westminster, stands near the deli and to put gas pumps in.” the newly installed gas pumps in November 2020. Since then, Allen Brothers has become a regular stop for locals needing a quick bite to eat or to pick up some fresh produce, for travelers to Vermont who make a point of pulling off Interstate 91 at Exit 5 to get some maple syrup or fresh- pressed apple cider, and for folks who just need to grab some coffee or use a restroom. “If you build it, they will come,” said Stacey. “That’s what happened here.” She said her staff of 48 stays pretty busy throughout the year taking care of customers. “It never really slows down, except for maybe one week in January,” she said. Allen Brothers farms 20 acres in Westminster and offers much of its produce, pumpkins and apples at the farm stand on Route 5. Some of the produce ends up in local markets as well. In the winter, Allen Brothers grows winter greens — arugula, baby spin- ach and baby kale, and a mesclun mix — in its greenhouses. “Tim’s really a farmer at heart,” said Stacey. “Growing plants and pro- duce is really his passion.” In the garden center, Allen Broth- ers offers hanging baskets, annuals and perennials, and in the late fall, Christmas trees and holiday wreaths. “We strive to offer the best quality and make it an experience where you Kristopher Radder — Vermont Country Magazine will want to come back again and again,” she said. Allen Brothers in Westminster. 34 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
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Three-hour power Long films to watch in the comfort of your home By Dan Tebo erm, titanic proportions. People assumed incorrectly. Vermont Country correspondent It’s like “Das Boot” but with a love story and 100 per- cent less Nazis. It was always a big ask: expecting people to leave the com- fort of their homes to spend three entire hours sitting “JFK” (205 minutes): Oliver Stone’s unhinged fever shoulder to shoulder with hundreds of strangers in a dark dream is an extraordinary piece of filmmaking and theater. Yet there was always an unspoken contract that also (possibly … definitely) complete hogwash. Come stipulated that the filmmaker wouldn’t ask us for such for the blizzard of paranoid conspiracy theories. Stay a significant sacrifice unless they had something really for the bravura performances from a murderer’s row important to show. Over the last century, films that broke of acting legends and also Kevin Costner. the 180-minute mark were almost exclusively sprawling “Das Boot” (209 minutes): This unbearably claustro- historical dramas or weighty biopics. phobic flick about a doomed German U boat is still Of course, streaming services have completely rewritten fathoms ahead of most contemporary CGI-laden the rules. The upside is that artists now have platforms blockbusters. It’s like “Titanic” but with zero female where they can let their stories unfold over multiple epi- characters and 100 percent more Nazis. sodes. The effect of this paradigm shift is that the remain- ing few blockbusters that see a theatrical release always “The Irishman” (209 minutes): Although Martin Scors- flirt with a three-hour running time, often in the name of ese got Netflix to foot the bill for this uncharacter- sheer bombast. Whether your jam is Marvel or Malcolm X, I maintain that an uninterrupted viewing experience is good for the soul. So black out the windows, mute the devices, and divert your attention to these 10 butt-numbing narratives for the next three to 13 hours. “Barry Lyndon” (187 minutes): Of the 13 fea- ture-length films Stanley Kubrick made in his lifetime, this Thackeray adaptation is his least celebrated work, outside of the cinephiles who still gush about the flick’s groundbreaking candlelight photography. It’s a pity because “Barry Lyndon” is probably the late legend’s breeziest and most easily digestible film. That candlelight photography is totally bomb too. “Magnolia” (188 minutes): Paul Thomas Anderson, a film- maker who has rarely stood accused of brevity, was still in his emo 20s when he unfurled this gleefully over-the- top melodrama. Long simmering familial tensions reach a furious boil. The cast inexplicably sings an entire Aimee Mann song. Actual frogs rain from the heavens. Bold. “The Green Mile” (189 minutes): In this adaptation of a Stephen King serial novel, John Coffey, a falsely convicted prisoner with scarcely explained supernat- ural powers, spends his death row days resurrecting jailhouse mice and healing warden Tom Hanks’ UTI, which is awesome. Coffey also burdens Hanks with the unsolicited gift of eternal life and is subsequently executed, which is less awesome. “Titanic” (195 minutes): Prior to its release, people as- sumed that this three-hour drama with a then-record high price tag and a baked-in conclusion (spoiler alert: the ship sinks) would be a box office disaster of, 44 | VERMONT COUNTRY MAGAZINE | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023
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