REPORT 2020 Science and Sentiment - The Voice of Fashion
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INDIA
SUSTAINABILITY
REPORT 2020
S cience and S entiment
A white paper by
PARTNERED & SUPPORTED BY:
INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020 Sc ie nc e and S entiment A white paper by
TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
INDIA AND THE WORLD’S
SUSTAINABILITY MOVEMENT
Six months after The Voice of Fashion chain exploitations and inequalities have been
launched in July 2018, the phrases “consumer brought to the fore through awareness
confusion” and “industry overstatement” campaigns by platforms like Fashion
around sustainability began to echo. As the Revolution and debates at the annual
first Indian fashion publication to devote a Copenhagen Fashion Summit. The fashion
regular section to sustainability, we found industry’s culpability has been unmasked.
curiosity laced with ambiguity among
consumers, creators, designers, fashion Exploitation of garment workers in developing
houses. It was a challenge to present credibly nations, the deplorable conditions of
reported articles without numerous fact sweatshops, inequitable opportunities and
checks as many fashion labels claimed earnings for female workers, child labour,
“sustainability” practices without perhaps absence of basic safeguards for health and
adhering to a basic set of scientific worker safety, the use of toxic dyes and exotic
parameters. Confusing sustainability as animal skins—fashion bleeds with these
another word for crafts enterprises or the concerns.
handloom industry blurred the space further.
The slip is showing.
If what sustainability exactly means, how it is
different (even when linked) from organic, Where does India stand in this context? Is
natural, environmentally friendly, ethically or there an East versus West debate on fast
responsibly produced is already confounding, fashion that spreads like a pandemic across
there are other perplexities. India lacks a the world through trends and collection drops
contemporary vocabulary in different regional and creates environmental hazards? Or is it
languages for communication with artisan time to explore a new, bold, “West and East
groups to help reengage with what has been for Responsible Fashion” global charter?
an inherent part of the Indian way of life. We Today’s consumers are globally connected
are culturally programmed to spend after all.
conservatively, reuse clothes and other
lifestyle goods, including school books and India is not just another link in the world’s
uniforms. We make manure from vegetable fashion supply chain. Its value and distinction
trash, quilts from waste fabrics, breakfast from is critical compared to manufacturing hubs in
leftover chappatis and so on. other developing economies given the
uniqueness of our crafts industries that global
Yet an urgent agenda has been thrown in our and Indian fashion relies on.
midst with the West pounding the
sustainability debate, triggered by urgencies of The Voice of Fashion leads this
information and reflection. Fashion is identified fashion-specific exploration to bring
as one of the most polluting industries. Supply systematically researched information. It is as
3
India's Hima Das celebrates winning the silver medal after the final of the women's 400m athletics event during the
2018 Asian Games in Jakarta. She wore a Gamoosa, the Assamese woven textile, to commemorate the special moment
Image: Jewel Samad, AFP
important for our readers as it is for fashion recycling, vintage, rented or pre-loved fashion
houses and individual designers who source and whether consumers are interested in or
from or make in India. portray commitment towards environmental
conservation and socio-economic inequalities
This white paper compiles and analyses the behind fashion. Surprisingly or perhaps not,
findings of a two-pronged exercise. One is a almost half the respondents studied (46 per
quantitative survey conducted in five Indian cent to be exact) were not familiar with
cities over three months among four sustainability as a term associated with
respondent groups categorised by fashion. Yet a majority are curious, show
environmental awareness, fashion exposure, willingness for more information, want to align
age groups and incomes. Hindi speaking, with environmentally conscious brands,
middle class respondents with limited authentication tags, even pay a little more for
environmental consciousness were as responsible fashion. Of course, fashion trends,
significant a group to study as were fashion shopping as therapy, changing clothes to suit
and design students—millennials now and seasons and trends, impress peers and for
industry leaders of the future. status continue to be high on agenda. As is
the disposable mindset. But in the
The questionnaire was designed to consumerist surge, sustainability is clearly
understand consumer awareness, willingness emerging as a parallel track to jog upon. One
to change or minimise, the current practice of that deserves its own scoreboard.
TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
What might strike you is an apparent conflict takeaways, photographs and infographics for
between consumer concerns around a quick overview.
social-economic disparities of fashion and the
reluctance to delve deeper into issues like It is time to stop perceiving India as a
child labour and other inequities. These manufacturing hub lagging behind in the global
conflicts or “consumer confusion” as we call it sustainability movement. The struggle between
are perhaps a part of making friends with inherited complexities of our crafts and
sustainability in a contemporary milieu. handloom industry and persistent issues of
worker welfare, wage inequality, water and
For the other half of this study, we interviewed waste management continue.
CEOs and/ or sustainability officers of 17 top
fashion and retail brands from India. Nine are But, the needle has moved.
representatives of group of retail captains who,
in August last year signed SU.RE, a charter of This is the first survey that maps and decodes
commitment towards sustainability with IMG the change.
Reliance and the Clothing Manufacturers
Association of India (CMAI). Shefalee Vasudev
Editor, The Voice of Fashion
Both the consumer survey findings and
industry interviews are reproduced here. There
are also edited excerpts, highlights, top
Asked to name sustainable fashion brands,
only 17 per cent of those respondents who
claimed brand recall brought up the following names
in tiny percentages leading to inconclusive analysis.
These names only reiterate
“consumer confusion”
Fabindia, Adidas, Eka, Zara, Co ons, Doodlage, Good Ea h,
Eileen, Everlane, Grassroot, Khadi Gram Udyog, H&M, Levi’s,
Raymond, Upasana, Woolmark, I was a Sari, Puma, Amrapali,
Peter England, Lifestyle, Reebok, Nike, FBB, Lee, GAP, Anokhi,
Park Avenue, Pantaloons, Ikea, Anaya, People Tree, R | Elan,
péro, Shi by Nimish Shah, Buna Studio, Vivienne Westwood,
Louis Vui on, Uniqlo, Amrich, Gurjari, Nicobar, Kilol,
Ka-Sha by Karishma Shahani, Maku, John Miller,
Stella McCa ney, Co-optex, Raw Mango, Bodice…
5 KEYNOTE Under the leadership of Honourable Prime Minister Narendra Modi, India is at the forefront in mitigating climate change and has been one of the world leaders in advocating sustainability. The first India Sustainability Report is a timely reflection of India’s commitment towards environment protection and a pioneering work that underlines where Indian fashion, retail and artisanal enterprises stand in the sustainability movement of the world. It reveals consumer mindsets and manufacturer responsibility through scientifically gathered data. It signals the way forward for future proofing fashion and retail businesses towards environmental correctness. The report will help formulate manufacturing guidelines for ethical practices, bring parity and fair trade to India’s unique crafts and handloom sector. It helps understand the artisanal workforce as equal and why it is important for Indian designers and global brands which source from or make in India to safeguard their creative rights, health and wages. Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani Union Minister of Textiles & Union Minister of Women and Child Development
TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
Quite honestly, when CMAI and IMG Reliance first thought of a project on
sustainable fashion, we did not expect the enthusiastic response we would get from
leading brands. Many were already engaged in some activity or the other which
could be broadly defined as an effort towards a more sustainable fashion industry. I
believe the SU.RE project provides a platform which could be a springboard for a
comprehensive, holistic and combined effort on part of the fashion industry.
The India Sustainability Report is an important first step in this direction—to
understand what the consumer thinks and understands about sustainable fashion. I
congratulate The Voice of Fashion for undertaking this extensive research and look
forward to aligning the Industry’s response to the expectations of the consumer.
Rahul Mehta
Chief Mentor, Clothing Manufacturing Association of India (CMAI)
A prominent trend in the Indian textile and fashion industry over the past few years is
to incorporate sustainable solutions in conjunction with end-consumers through
brand and designer associations. For Lenzing, India is becoming a huge market for
domestic consumption and it is present across all major apparel categories such as
ethnic wear, intimate wear, general outerwear, denims and home furnishings. The
inclination to incorporate environment friendly products is strong across all
categories. From niche design labels to value retailers, our fibers are finding
acceptability everywhere.
S. Jayaraman
Regional Commercial Director (South Asia & South East Asia), Lenzing AG
7 At Reliance, we constantly endeavor to instill sustainability and circularity in everything we do. Our R&D teams strive to identify new avenues to deploy cost effective and efficient circularity concepts and enable sustainability in our downstream industry. Our portfolio of business ventures, based on technology platforms & collaborative business models like R | Elan™ Fabric 2.0 is an excellent example of our commitment and leadership in circular business in India–especially for fashion industry. R | Elan™ Green Gold fabric technology has one of the lowest carbon footprints globally as it uses renewable energy, adopts a zero waste concept and enables transparent, traceable manufacturing process. Our collaboration on SU.RE will provide thrust on usage of material in a circular manner, empower value-chain participation in sustainable fashion and make them partners in contributing to the quality of life of our future generations. Gunjan Sharma CMO – Polyesters, Reliance Industries Ltd.
INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT
01 QUANTITATIVE SURVEY 10 Respondent Profile 11 Sustainability as a Choice: Awareness and Current Practices 12 Environmental Conciousness: The Indian Mindset 13 Sustainable Fashion: Perception, Information and Definition 15 Fashion: Why We Buy 17 Recycle, Upcycle, Rent, Repair and Swap 23 Sustainable Brands, Fabrics and Materials: The Big Reveal 25 Who Made My Clothes: The Indian Outlook 29 Pay More, Use More vs. Small Cash, Big Trash
TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
Respondent METHODOLOGY
Profile The consumer survey was
conducted through
quantitative structured
interviews, Computer
Aided Personal Interviews
(CAPI) or online. A link
TG1 TG2 was developed for the
Environment Conscious Non Environment- questionnaire which was
& Affluent TG Conscious & Affluent TG administered offline or
online.
GEOGRAPHY
New Delhi, Mumbai,
TG3 TG4 Bengaluru, Kolkata,
Non Environment- Students from Reputed Ahmedabad
Conscious, Middle Class Fashion Design Institutes
& Hindi Speaking TG
SAMPLE SIZE
(ADULTS)
The Four Target Groups:
Definition and Strategy
This is the first such consumer survey on sustainability done in
228 341
India. The Target Groups (TG) represented here do not correspond TG2
TG1
to TG segregations defined and used in most survey
methodologies by surveying agencies or by the Ministry of
Statistics, Government of India.
Clarity and affirmation of categories like “affluent and
248 120
TG3 TG4
middle-class” were arrived through a pre-designed, stage one
questionnaire, which included questions on annual income,
number of earning members, spending on fashion and other
lifestyle products, the type of car owned. Another set of basic
Cumulatively, 937 adults
questions on environmental responsibility and ecological concerns aged 18-60 were
helped determine “environment-conscious” and not interviewed in which gender
“environment-conscious.” Those who did not fit the intended ratio was 50:50. City-wise
scope of research were disqualified. Students of fashion and distribution was 186 in
design were consciously included as strategy and choice to New Delhi, 186 in Kolkata,
determine understanding of India’s future designers and through 187 in Bengaluru,
them the millennial mindset. 188 in Ahmedabad and
190 in Mumbai.
The Quantitative Survey was conducted by
Qualisys, a market research and consultancy firm.11
KEY FINDINGS
Sustainability as Choice:
Awareness and Current
Practices
40%
of the entire respondent pool said
65%
respondents in Bengaluru said they
they only buy from eco-friendly ordered online from eco-friendly
platforms platforms that did not use plastic
and other non-biodegradable
packaging
25%
Purchasing decision of 25 per
78%
respondents
cent respondents was based on interviewed used
the need for a fashion product cloth bags for
rather than what was trending shoppingTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
Environmental Consciousness:
The Indian Mindset
61%
of environment conscious, elite target group said they
were aware of their environmental footprint and take
active steps towards it
Cities that have taken the most
active measures for correcting carbon footprint
and negative impact on the environment
DELHI KOLKATA BENGALURU
42% 39% 32%
Other cities lagged behind especially Mumbai where
59 per cent admitted that they are yet to start taking
active measures13
Sustainable Fashion:
Perception, Information
and Definition
Have you heard the term ‘sustainable fashion’?
Not aware of sustainable fashion
43% Total 57%
937 Aware of sustainable fashion
Do you believe the fashion industry is a major contributor
to pollution?
18%
Consider fashion industry among top 3
contributors to pollution
Total
Do not consider fashion industry among
937 top 3 contributors to pollution
82%TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
46% 68%
of the entire respondent group While 68 per cent students of
across cities, age groups and TGs fashion and design defined
said sustainable fashion was a new sustainable fashion as maximizing
concept for them life of a fashion product by repair,
reuse, and upcycling, only 38 per
cent overall used that definition
85%
Across all respondent groups, the
awareness of the term
‘sustainable fashion’ was the
highest—at 85 per cent—among
students of fashion and design
24% 82%
Only 24 per cent defined 82 per cent of the total respondents
Sustainable Fashion as knew the difference between the
consumption that boosts local terms - sustainable, organic and
economies such as handloom and ethical while 97 per cent students
handicrafts while 26 per cent said claimed to clearly draw the
that buying environmentally- distinction
friendly clothing/footwear (such as
sustainably grown fiber crops or
recycled materials) meant
sustainable fashion15
Fashion: Why We Buy
9% I am a shopaholic and need retail therapy
from time to time
I cannot repeat the same clothes or
22% accessories after wearing it a certain number
of times even if they are in a good condition
I need to buy new clothes, accessories to
36% create a good impression amongst my
peers and social circle
Every season I need to add new variety to
41% my clothes
45% I buy when a new fashion trend sets in
I do not have enough garments or
47% footwear or accessories and the earlier
ones are worn out
I am browsing a market or mall or looking
49% online and I like it
* This was a multiple choice questionnaire so the
TOTAL 937 percentage total does not correspond to 100 per cent.
of the total respondents said they could not repeat
22%
a garment or accessory many times even if it was
in a good condition while 36 per cent said they
bought new clothes to create a good impression
on their peers and in their social circlesTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
45%
said they shopped every time a new
77%
of the respondent group said they
trend came in, 41 per cent said they prioritised their fashion buying
needed new seasonal clothes decisions by brand name, while 80
per cent said they looked for
comfort. Only 55 per cent said that
9%
pricing was a matter of top
consideration while shopping. Only
18 per cent were concerned about
who made their clothes when they
confessed to being shopaholics and
bought
needed retail therapy from time to
time
Consumers across age groups
shop for similar reasons17
Recycle, Upcycle, Rent,
Repair and Swap
How likely are you to adopt these sustainable practices?
Choose from options below:
I would prefer upcycled—garments made from
22% discarded or vintage pieces of clothing as I believe
they can be better than the original
I would like to adopt recyclable fashion—where
45% materials like plastic or waste are recycled to make
fabric for garment, shoes or bags
I would like to adopt sustainable practices—where
49% the fabric is sourced from natural sources like
coffee beans, bananas, or wood pulp and then made
into garments
26% None of these particularly interest me
* This was a multiple choice questionnaire so the
TOTAL 937 percentage total does not correspond to 100 per cent.
Will you pay a little extra for extensive R&D, small batch
productions and fair wage manufacturing structures?
I would not be willing to pay more for a sustainable/
responsibly made fashion product as of now and will 13%
wait for prices to come down
I would be willing to pay more sometimes for a
sustainable/responsibly made fashion product 65%
I would definitely be willing to pay more at
all times if I know that these are 22%
responsibly made fashion products
TOTAL 937TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
24% Among those who expressed apprehension for recycled fashion—shoes or
clothes—24 per cent attributed the reasons to possible skin allergies, comfort
level of the garment, and its effect on skin
50%
students of fashion and design said
they would be happy to wear recycled
garments
88%
fashion students claimed to know
of Made in India brands that made
garments from recycled materials19
What do you do with your garments, once you stop
wearing them?
4%
We have a trunk or suitcase or
closet where we park our clothes 4%
We convert them
into bags or mops or
dusters for rough use
2%
I usually make suits out of my
sarees or use the part I like
40% 11%
My parents/spouse decides.
I give them away to domestic
I just tell them I won’t wear
staff or someone needy
them anymore
26%
We usually donate them to
a charitable place
13%
They keep lying in my cupboard for sometime
with the thought that I might wear them somedayTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
A majority confessed to a disposable mindset when it came to
old garments and fabrics. Recycling or upcycling to make
other usable things out of old clothes only interested
6 per cent of total respondents.
How often do you discard old clothes?
No clear pattern
Every 2-3 months
Every change of season
Once in 12-18 months
Once in 2-3 years or
less often
11% 16% 20% 32% 21%
32%
of the respondent group discards clothes within eighteen
months of use. 20 per cent disposed clothes after change of
every season while another 21 per cent said they did so every
2-3 years21
Have you ever tried designer clothes on rent?
30%
TOTAL
937
70%
No Yes
29% 29%
71% 71%
No Yes No Yes
35% 28%
65% 72%
No Yes No YesTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
How interested would you What would motivate you to
be in trying such a use rental services?
rental clothing service?
To not add more clothes in
15% Very interested
28% my closet and behave
responsibly
Somewhat To not spend on expensive
34% interested 60% garments which are usually
one time wear
To get to wear new clothes
Not so 49% every time without repeating
40% interested them
To get the style and design
47% not available easily otherwise
11% Not at all interested
To afford expensive designer
43% clothes
* This was a multiple choice questionnaire so the
percentage total does not correspond to 100 per cent.
Not aware of su
57 per cent of overall respondents who had tried fashion
rental services said they did it to afford big designer names
or expensive products
36% students of fashion and design said
40%
respondents upcycle their clothes
they frequently repaired their torn sometimes by making other
garments while 54 per cent said wearables or bags out of them,
they did so sometimes 11 per cent do so very often but
49 per cent never upcycle23
Sustainable Brands, Fabrics
and Materials: The Big Reveal
Do you know of brands which follow principles of
sustainable fashion?
17%
No, I am not aware of
TOTAL any such brand
937
Yes, I know some brands
83%
nable fashion
52%
respondents admitted to lack of awareness about
sustainable fibres and materials. The remaining 48
per cent were either aware or “somewhat aware”
61%
of those who expressed sustainability awareness added that
they knew about organic cotton. However, only 31 per cent
knew about recycled wool and 30 per cent displayed
awareness of plant-based materials like nettle, hemp, bamboo,
banana and pineapple fibresTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
43 per cent of total respondents interviewed across age groups and
cities are aware of the negative impact of leather on the
environment. Surprisingly though, 47 per cent have low awareness.
On the other hand, 10 per cent of the total, said that the use of
leather was unavoidable for certain products even if it had a
negative impact on the environment
Are you aware of these marks?
39% Handloom Mark
Khadi Mark and
39% Khadi Mark Handloom Mark are the
most recognised labels of
authenticity.
31% Silk Mark
Awareness of Craft Mark
26% Craft Mark and Silk Mark though is
relatively low
40% Not heard of any of
these marks
TOTAL 937
* This was a multiple choice questionnaire so the
percentage total does not correspond to 100 per cent.
60% of those aware of Khadi Mark claimed they had garments with Khadi Mark tag on
them. While 55 per cent of those aware of Handloom Mark said they owned
garments with a Handloom Mark tag on it25
Who Made My Clothes:
The Indian Outlook
Are you interested in knowing who made your garments?
4% Doesn’t concern me at all
22% 31% Not so interested
TOTAL
937 Highly interested
Somewhat interested
43%
A majority of respondents said they were interested in knowing who made their
garments—more than 65 per cent said so in varying degrees of interest
The respondent group most interested is the middle class segment that is not
environment-conscious. Among this group, 41 per cent were also highly interested
to know where the garments were made, not just who made them
Contrarily, only 31 per cent of those from the elite group, who claimed to be
environmentally conscious said they were interested in knowing who made their
garments and only 20 per cent were curious about where the garment was made.
The rest were indifferentTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
Would you be interested to know if the product has
engaged child labor in its production?
6% Doesn’t concern me at all
14%
Somewhat interested
TOTAL
44%
937 Highly interested
36%
Not so interested
A majority of respondents across age groups, segments and
cities showed interest in knowing if child labour had been
involved in the making of fashion garments and accessories27
Would you be interested to know about social conditions
behind the production of fashion garments?
5% Doesn’t concern me at all
18%
Somewhat interested
34%
TOTAL
937 Highly interested
43% Not so interested
15% 17%
of the affluent, Hindi speaking
of Hindi speaking middle class felt
that concerns about social respondent group felt that
conditions surrounding garment knowing about the social
production were for activists to conditions behind garment
engage with and not regular production would take the joy out
shoppers of shopping which they view as
joyful activity
19%
Learning about oppressive conditions, impoverishment or other social factors
that go behind the making of fashion does not really concern the Indian
consumer. Across segments, age groups and respondent type, only 19 per cent
said this information would help them make a responsible choiceINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT
29
Pay More, Use More vs.
Small Cash, Big Trash
An outstanding majority of respondents across segments, cities and
age groups displayed willingness to spend more on sustainable
fashion to support fair wages and ethical supply chains
68%
When asked in detail, most (as many as 68 per cent) chose they
would pay extra “sometimes” instead of “always”. Even 57 per cent
middle class consumers who are not environmentally savvy said they
would be willing to sometimes pay more.
Do you think fashion should be produced through
responsible practices?
20% 63 per cent of the entire
respondent group
TOTAL believes fashion should
63%
937 17% be responsibly produced.
Others are unclear or
unconcerned
No Yes Not SureINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT
02
5
QUALITATIVE
STUDY
32 Between Science and Sentiment
34 Economic Growth must be in Synergy with Environmental and Social Interests
Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd.
37 Winging in Change to Redesign the Future
Arvind Fashions Ltd.
40 Sourcing Responsibly is a Cost-Intensive Process
Bestseller India
43 The Livelihoods Mandate
Fabindia
46 Local Ingredients, Traditional Processes and Care
Forest Essentials
49 Artisans are the Living Repositories of Textile Know-How
Good Earth
52 Greening Hidesign
Hidesign
55 Planet and People: Joining the Dots
House of Anita Dongre
58 Every Action has a Quarterly Milestone
Levi Strauss & Co.
61 Innovative Sustainability and Sustainable Innovation
Lifestyle
64 Holistic Consistency and Regular Work
péro
67 Seasonal Collections fuel the most Unsustainable Practices
Rahul Mishra
70 Sustainability is about Co-Existence
Raw Mango
73 Environmental Impact Takes Precedence
Ritu Kumar
76 Solar Energy in Retail Spaces is a Goal
Shoppers Stop
79 The Denim Industry Consumes Maximum Water
Spykar
82 It is a Myth that a Sustainable Product is Cost-Intensive
W
85 Moving the NeedleTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
BETWEEN SCIENCE AND
SENTIMENT
The growing adherence to sustainability is a Fashions Limited (AFL); Bestseller or W;
cathartic moment for the global fashion Lifestyle or House of Anita Dongre (HOAD), to
industry. The era to create products purely for name just a few—is not just using the term
beauty, glamour, status and form is well, sustainability to leverage on marketing trends.
almost over. Without responsibility, fashion will Instead, there are thoughtful policies and
soon lose its flash. practices that are invigorating change and
resetting the big agenda. Not every company
Climate change, growing ecological may be at the same level of sustainability
vulnerability, fashion’s notorious pollution of practices; some admit to be a work in
the planet and seeding inequality are now progress, while others are scaling up fast.
pushing companies and designers to invest in Brands like ABFRL, AFL, HOAD or Levi’s have
meaning and value. To find design solutions made pioneering efforts.
that save and simplify. This is a chance to
weed out inequality—discover Yet each brand included here has shifted from
environmentally-friendly materials, smart where it stood earlier with clearly defined short
manufacturing processes, enhance the lives of term and long-term goals. From innovative
people and abolish child labour. The push for packaging, working with sustainable materials
sustainability in supply chains can alter the and fibres, to reducing waste, recycling
DNA of the fashion business. It is a once-in-a industry leftovers, water management, vendor
millennium opportunity. compliances and enabling technology.
That is exactly where a growing number of Other names include crafts-focused retail
Indian retail brands and fashion designers giant Fabindia that was founded in the Sixties
stand today. around sustainability principles long before
this became a catchphrase and continues to
When The Voice of Fashion reached out to be a case study for business management
creative directors, sustainability officers and institutes across the world. On the other hand
brand leaders for in-depth, informative are fashion brands like Good Earth, Rahul
conversations on their sustainability Mishra, Raw Mango and péro. They are
compliances, practices and goals—what associated with ideas of artisanal
emerged is a new, underreported transitional responsibility. Do read their points of view to
phase. know how they do so and what drives them.
Ritu Kumar’s eponymous brand was included
The 17 interviews published here include nine as it is India’s oldest fashion designer and
brands, which signed the SU.RE charter with crafts conservationist label, founded by Indian
IMG Reliance committing themselves to fashion’s grand matriarch Ritu Kumar.
sustainability goals by 2025. Each company
from that cluster—whether it is Aditya Birla To bring in diverse arguments from critically
Fashion Retail Limited (ABFRL) or Arvind important sectors, we also interviewed luxury33
Ayurveda brand Forest Essentials and
leather-intensive design brand Hidesign. The
former works from Haridwar and Rishikesh
revitalising local communities to produce
wellness products while bringing educational
empowerment to the workers. The latter,
based in Puducherry, the other tip of India,
offers employment to locals while finding
solutions to handle leather waste, tanning that
is not hazardous, and invests in solar energy.
A section called Moving the Needle ushers a
Saroj Akka, an Ethicus weaver working her magic on
quick overview—from worker welfare to a brand's signature rainbow warp. Image: Ethicus.
new, emerging material library. Energy, water
and resource saving highlights too. individuals who may be currently overusing,
misusing and abusing the term “sustainability” to
What India needs, as every fashion leader find a foothold in the conversation but may be
agrees, is a culturally appropriate definition inadvertently diluting the big picture.
and understanding of sustainability. That is in
tandem with global fashion initiatives for
environmental protection and is scientifically
Shefalee Vasudev
Editor, The Voice of Fashion
measurable. At the same time, it is mindful of
the peculiarities of our working culture that
respects and rewards artisanal skills.
Problems may be universal but solutions must
be local to sustain.
There are giant brands that become quickly
visible through their campaigns and ability to
join international platforms. However, some
small, emerging fashion enterprises are also
authentically trying to do their bit in this space.
Let us not drown them out in the din. Not
everything can be judged by appearance after
all. That goes especially for brands orTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
AD I T Y A B I R L A F A S HIO N A ND R ET AIL L IMIT ED
Ec onomic Gr owth mu s t be in S yn e rgy
wi t h Envir onmental a n d S o c ia l I n t e re s t s
Dr. Naresh Tyagi, Chief Sustainability Officer
TVOF: When did commitment to conservation, and encourages rejuvenation with
sustainability get off to a serious start in a holistic mission and focus areas.
ABFRL?
Naresh Tyagi: At Aditya Birla Group (ABG), How would you define holistic where a
sustainability is fundamental to all our company is concerned?
endeavors. We believe that economic growth The ReEarth programme covers the entire
must be achieved in synergy with ABFRL value chain, the entire gamut of
environmental and societal interests. In sustainability aspects impacting the sector,
2012-13, we embarked on our structured devised by drivers that include ABG’s
sustainability programme, 'ReEarth for our sustainability framework, global sustainability
Tomorrow.' Built on the ABG sustainability performances, industry trends, expert opinions,
framework of Responsible Stewardship, sustainable development goals, Indian and
Stakeholder Engagement and Future international best practices, and a materiality
Proofing, ReEarth is a movement to give mapping with the help of Forum for the Future.
back more to the ecosystem than what we
have taken from it. It goes beyond What were the first steps ABFRL took to turn
itself into a sustainable company?
Launched in 2012, the sustainability program
Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail Ltd. (ABFRL) is
was implemented across ten missions with
the fashion and apparel retail arm of the
$48.3-billion Aditya Birla Group (ABG), a Fortune targets to be achieved by 2017.
500 Indian MNC with a diversified business These included:
portfolio active across many industry sectors. The . Enhancing energy efficiency
Group is a member of the UN Global Compact . Recycling and reusing of water and capturing
and aims to become a leading Indian
conglomerate for sustainable business practices. rainwater
ABFRL received the ‘Sustainable Corporate of the . Integrated waste management with compliance
Year 2019’ in the Sustainability 4.0 Assessment towards regulations
and Awards, a Frost & Sullivan and TERI . Pursuing green building certifications
initiative. It also secured the eighth position
. Safe and hygienic workplaces
among Textiles, Apparel and Luxury Goods
globally in the SAM Corporate Sustainability . Integrating sustainability in product design and
Assessment (SAM CSA). Other recognitions development
include the CSR Project of the Year for .
community development at the UBS Forums
Minimising primary, secondary and tertiary
Corporate Social Responsibility Summit & packaging of products
Awards 2019. ABFRL’s Peter England Earth . Safety management systems and
Chinos were selected as a case study in CSR with a focus to support local communities.
sustainable innovation at the UNEP product
road-testing platform.
The missions progressed well and we achieved35
our stipulated targets. On crossing the 2017
milestone, we have now set ourselves new
targets for 2020.
Was sustainability taken up as
philanthropy, environmental responsibility,
business strategy or to gain a lead over
the competition?
ABG has always had a systematic approach
towards creating sustainable businesses. Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) meeting organised by
Besides ABG's Sustainable Business ABFRL in Bengaluru, 2017.
Framework, we also adopt best practices
from across the world. We believe building a larger energy usage plans like having LED and
profitable business model pegged on HVAC systems. We design our products
sustainability is the key ingredient for every adhering to ethical sourcing, energy efficiency,
business today. The ReEarth programme is product safety and resource consumption,
focused on integrating sustainability across among other factors. Our raw material has a
the entire value chain to support revenue good mix of BCI cotton, recycled cotton,
growth, rejuvenate the environment and natural fibres, herbal dyes, green certification,
enhance living standards, especially of the recycled PET fibres etc. We have also
marginalised sections of society. In 2018-19, collaborated with Cotton 2040 to increase the
under this programme, we witnessed sustainable cotton consumption.
substantial improvement in energy
conservation, water management and CSR. As part of our sustainable sourcing initiatives
and supplier connect, we have instituted
Partner Innovation Summits, Quality and Joint
On global platforms, India’s Improvement Projects, the Higg Index, the
understanding of sustainability is not Samanway program, the Green Channel
well represented in the textile and Partnership, among others. ABFRL’s Vendor
retail sector. There is a perception Code of Conduct Process ensures ethical
that Asian brands are not concerned sourcing. We have also developed an efficient
with these issues mechanism to measure, manage and control
chemical consumption, to ensure a safe
What were the initial challenges and did working environment.
those challenges later change?
Given our Sustainability Framework, our Have ABFRL employees started feeling
businesses always look into their operations differently about sustainability with all
from the lens of reduction, savings or growth. these measures in place?
In the initial two to three years, one of the few We have adopted an integrated
priority areas we focused on was operational communication approach to engage with our
efficiency. Aiming at a 30% energy reduction employees on sustainability. In the last eight
meant saving resources but it also meant years, we have seen good progress, whether
attaining a 30% benefit from wastage. We it is in the form of employee participation,
reduced energy consumption by 33%, which business benefit or a socio–environmental
gave a window to reinvest the money into impact.TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
How do you deal with supply chain and saved tonnes of plastic. Reduction,
variables like an unorganized workforce, Reuse, Recycle: these keywords came in
women or child workers? handy in aligning our actions towards
ABFRL has an advantage because we make in resource efficiency.
India and sell in India. A large part of our
supply chain is controlled through in-house
practices and strategic suppliers. Our strategic
suppliers are as good as in-house production
teams as they are our long-term partners.
Factors such as credibility and collaboration
are strongly embedded in our operations. The
Vendor Code of Conduct policy looks at all
levels of suppliers—from basic to advance
level. We set our own internal supplier rating
system where the Code of Conduct is given
critical weightage. By default, any vendor who
is in the current system and follows basic
compliance, is up for periodic assessment.
Some of our key vendors are assessed on the Peter England's Earth Chinos manufactured by ABFRL was
selected as a case study in sustainable innovation at the
Higg Index's Facility Environment Module. UNEP product road-testing platform.
Should India define sustainability in a Is there a huge dependence on technology
specific way than pander to global in the pursuit of sustainability goals?
definitions? Innovation fuels industry-defining
On global platforms, India’s understanding of transformations in all parts of the fashion value
sustainability is not well represented in the chain: fibre, fabric, apparel and retail.
textile and retail sector. There is a perception Increasing digitisation and the usage of
that Asian brands are not concerned with technologies like Artificial Intelligence helps the
these issues. In 2013 at SAC, we proposed an industry eliminate wastage, shorten response
annual sustainability meeting in India but times, improve demand predictions, reduce
Tokyo and Vietnam were the preferred energy and water consumption, increase
destinations. Eventually, a SAC meeting took greening processes and bring down costs.
place in Bangalore in 2017. Supply chain This combination of environment-friendly
issues are critical and so are the consumers’ products at pocket-friendly prices has the
expectations. The millennial consumer potential to mainstream sustainability faster
demands better ethics and responsible than most people envisage. Thus, at ABFRL,
practices from a company, so this was a good we constantly encourage innovation and invest
transition. in technology.
What about reducing waste by tackling
packaging processes?
Packaging for men’s shirts, for instance, earlier
included multiple items like pins, plastic clips,
etc. Our teams worked to reduce this by 60%37
ARVIND FASHIONS LTD.
Wi nging in C hang e t o Re de s ign
t he Futur e
Anindya Ray, EVP and Chief Sourcing Officer
Tushar Jindal, Head, Corporate Sustainability & Responsible Supply Chain
TVOF: How does Arvind Fashions Ltd. fabrics. AFL envisages the use of an
(AFL) approach the concept of increased mix of sustainable fabric, BCI
sustainability? cotton, organic cotton, recycled cotton and
Anindya Ray & Tushar Jindal: AFL wishes polyester in the future.
to emerge as a market leader in the
sustainable fashion space and leave a
conscious footprint across the value chain.
We believe this can be achieved by
collaboration and innovation across the value
chain.
We follow a four-pillar strategy to clearly map
our goals and visions. The strategy involves a
holistic combination of sustainable fashion,
combatting climate change, responsible
supply chain and social responsibility.
We have undertaken a number of
sustainability initiatives under this four-pillar
strategy. U.S. Polo Assn has a line of
sustainable clothes, ‘Responsible Jeans,’ that
has launched products with a sustainable Campaign image of U.S. Polo Assn Responsible Jeans.
fabric mix and non-hazardous chemical
wash. Similarly, Flying Machine has a line of AFL is also making efforts to increase the mix
sustainable clothes with focus on the usage of renewable energy in its energy portfolio.
of sustainable fabrics, especially recycled As of today, 80% of the energy consumed in
our corporate office is solar powered. We are
also keenly exploring options to shift some
Arvind Fashions Ltd. is home to over
percentage of our energy requirement to
27 distinguished brands across all formats of
retail. The company has fueled the country’s renewable energy in our stores and
fashion aspirations since 1980 when it warehouses. In terms of retail operations, we
manufactured India's first home-bred jeans, operate in small as well as large format
Flying Machine. Among its other popular brands
stores. We are exploring the possibility of
are Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Arrow, U.S. Polo Assn,
UNLIMITED, Calvin Klein. installing solar rooftop panels for the larger
format stores, in case sufficient roof space is
available.TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
We also engage with our vendor partners on Furthermore, we are exploring avenues of
the sustainability agenda, guide and assist recycling/reuse of the post-consumer waste,
them in identification and implementation of and diverting it from going to the landfill.
the sustainable projects. One of our vendor
partners has installed a solar rooftop of 200 Another waste management issue is the
kilowatt capacity for their manufacturing unit. handling of packaging material waste. Going
forward, our aim is to innovate and develop
eco-friendly packaging such as using
Our four-pillar strategy involves a cornstarch as an active material. However, a
holistic combination of sustainable lack of commercial and scalable availability of
fashion, combating climate change, innovative packaging solutions is proving to
responsible supply chain and social be a hindrance right now.
responsibility.
How do you ensure supply chain checks
AFL focuses on resource efficiency and is and balances to safeguard all links in
actively working with vendor partners to responsible production and manufacture?
reduce water consumption. While some of We were one of the first Indian companies to
our vendor partners have already shifted to have Responsible Supply Chain Guidelines
Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) plants, a few of (RSC) that make our expectations clear to the
them are exploring water-efficient vendors. Further, this also acts as a
technologies. Apart from this, we have screening mechanism for new vendor
installed aerators in all the taps at our partners who show interest in associating
corporate office, which reduces the fresh with us while helping us to periodically check
water consumption upto 2500-3000 their Environment, Social and Governance
KL per annum. (ESG) performance. RSC Guidelines have
brought about a cultural shift in the
We organize a sustainability platform on an operations of a number of factories.
annual basis that provides an opportunity for
vendors to showcase solutions to our Apart from this, being a licensee of some of
product and design teams under one roof. the international brands, we are bound to
The platform also organizes capacity-building implement their Code of Conduct in the
sessions for our vendor partners on the latest factories producing for them.
sustainable solutions.
AFL is a founding member of the Sustainable
How is waste managed? Apparel Coalition (SAC), which launched the
We are trying to identify opportunities to HIGG Index, a standardised suite of tools that
reduce waste from our operations and also measures transparency and social and
divert the same from going to landfills. There environmental impact of the fashion industry.
are two streams of garment waste, This system requires some of our vendor
pre-consumer waste (chindi: cut waste partners to use the Facility Environment
generated during manufacturing) and Module (FEM) and Facility Social and Labor
post-consumer waste (rejected/defective Module (FSLM). Fifty factories of our vendor
clothes and clothes that have reached the partners are already on the HIGG Index.
end of their life or are no more useful to the
customer). We understand that today, most Under the eight parameters of the HIGG
of the chindi waste is sold to third parties, Index, it has become easier to transparently
who then repurpose and recycle it. review the progress made by the39
Women workers carrying out finishing process at one of the production units of AFL.
manufacturers. We also help in aiding their once the system is implemented, we may be
progress by conducting capacity-building one of the first in the Indian fashion industry
sessions, calling in experts and educating to adopt technology to manage an end to
them about technological advancements in end supply chain.
the global scenario.
What are the company’s short-term goals
What is the role of technology in building to keep pushing the target of
a sustainable value chain? sustainability?
Every organisation today is trying to develop AFL would like to further build on the
new concepts and innovate on different levels sustainability strategy already in place. In the
across the supply chain, be it fabric, short term, we would like to gain a deeper
inventory management or waste understanding of technological advances like
management systems. These innovations sustainable chemistry, in order to aid
have to be commercially scalable so that a modifications in design and process. Another
business can adopt them in the long run. area of focus would be adopting sustainable
packaging.
We are actively working towards making our
supply chain digital-savvy and believe thatTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
B E S TS E L L E R I N D IA
S ourc ing Resp onsib ly is a
Cost -I ntensive Pr oc e s s
Vineet Gautam, Country Head & CEO
Sugam Asani, Brand Head, Jack & Jones
TVOF: When did sustainability become an We are at a nascent stage in terms of
important subject internally for recycling fibres like viscose, polyester and
Bestseller`s in-house brands? TENCEL, as the availability of recycled
Sugam Asani: We have been working on synthetics is not as widespread as BCI. The
sustainability and responsible fashion in India aim is also to use recycled polyester in
since 2017. There are three main subjects categories like jeans and tops in
that we focus on, globally as well as in India: womenswear, starting Spring-Summer 2020.
Being climate-positive; fair for all; and circular
by design. Have any information sessions or
workshops been held to enable the
Following this, we have picked up apparel understanding of sustainability for your
categories that are the most polluting and are employees?
making efforts towards more responsible and We take it upon ourselves to sensitize the
sustainable production of the same. Let`s brand teams about our ethos and our
take jeans, as an example. All our sustainability goals. The changes are small
manufacturers reuse up to 95-98% of the but effective, like replacing PET bottles with
water generated in the production process by glass ones. We have replaced all plastic
running it through an Effluent Treatment Plant packaging used for sending courier packages
(ETP). with cardboard packaging or recyclable
plastic packaging, as well as discouraged the
Non-denim items, which are not as polluting use of paper for office work as much as
but still contribute to the environment possible.
negatively, are also being put through these
processes and starting 2020, about 64% of Can you elaborate on the challenges
our cotton products will fall under the Better Bestseller faces in the process of
Cotton Initiative (BCI). We are also looking at introducing responsible practices?
100% BCI in categories like innerwear. Transparency and visibility are among our
biggest challenges. We have entrusted BCI
Bestseller is an international fashion house
with creating a responsible value chain for us.
doing business in 70 markets worldwide and its However, details of the internal process such
three brands, ONLY, Vera Moda and Jack & Jones, as distribution of wages, benefits to grassroot
have a strong presence in Indian malls. Fashion players are not being revealed to us and
FWD, Bestseller’s global strategy, has
sustainability at its centre, and garments get a
hence, we can’t reveal it to the customer.
nod from their international sustainability team Sourcing responsibly and getting
before entering the Indian market. certifications is a cost-intensive process. Our41
factory compliance is far tighter than Walmart
and FedEx. There are two types of
compliances, social and physical. We require
our manufacturers to commit to social
compliances such as PF and ESI for
employees for two to three years, rather than
six months which is the norm. The aim is to
work with vendors who have been honest in
their business practices. In order to onboard
a vendor in India, a global compliance team
visits and audits the factory, as well as
ensures ethical practices through surprise Manufacturing work being carried out by women
employees at the Bestseller factory.
visits.
energy generation are also being explored
That said, we also follow a strong physical globally and will soon enter the Indian units
compliances policy to produce ethically. which are currently working at 85-87%
Lighting to ventilation and the presence of energy efficiency but are still trying to
infirmaries, crèche and pantries, are all vital navigate the generation of solar and thermal
and part of the basic physical compliances. energy.
Fire management infrastructure—fire drill,
sprinklers and four entry and exit points—is One of the biggest innovations is the ‘Endless
also an added criteria. Aisle’ technology. A huge range of stock is
available on a digital platform for the
customer’s perusal, in case something is not
The use of innovative fabrics drives up
available in store. This not only gives the
the cost of the item by 8 to 10%. However,
customer a wider choice but also reduces
none of our brands have put the onus of unnecessary crowding of the store with
bearing it on the customer as we perceive products. The idea is to eventually produce
this as our social responsibility and a only what is required and increase efficiency
change that we absolutely need to make. in inventory management.
While manufacturing in places like Bengaluru, Product innovation is also at the core of all
Tirupur, Gurugram, Noida, Bhiwandi and brands across Bestseller. Jack and Jones is
Chennai, cities that are already coming up with the LID (Low Impact Denim),
overpopulated with manufacturing units, it is a line of jeans that consumes less water;
important that these guidelines are followed, Vero Moda with the ‘Aware’ line that is made
in order to claim a responsible value chain. out of good quality, long-lasting fabrics to
increase longevity of the product; ONLY with
Are Jack & Jones, Vera Moda, ONLY, its ‘Life’ collection, which uses recycled fibres
making use of technology and innovation and regenerated fabrics.
to enable future-forward fashion?
We are exploring the conversion of waste Do the costs of innovation drive up the
water to potable water, which can be used price of the product?
for other activities inside the unit such as the The use of innovative fabrics drives up the
kitchen. Technological advancements in cost of the item by 8-10%. However, none ofTVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
our brands have put the onus of bearing it on
the customer, as we perceive this to be our
social responsibility and a change that we
absolutely need to make. A contributing
factor to this is also that the Indian customer
is neither particularly aware about
sustainability nor too happy with an
increment in prices of lifestyle items, whether
or not they are responsibly sourced and
manufactured.
Would Bestseller like to promote its Effluent Treatment Plant at a Bestseller vendor factory
enables water recycling upto 97%.
responsible practices among its
consumers? . Close to 80% of our cotton to be
We are trying to make the customer more BCI-compliant, starting from 2020
aware by trying to impart information through . Make the reused water from ETP potable
labels and our social media handles. We . A majority of our womenswear collections to
believe that it is necessary to make it an be made out of recyclable products
educational initiative rather than just a
marketing campaign. It requires us to make Does design in fashion get restricted in a
the customer aware in order to make brand’s pursuit of sustainability?
sustainability a part of their lifestyle, and not The only thing that is restrictive is probably
just restrict it to within the garment industry. the lack of access to technology in terms of
recycling synthetics. As far as cottons are
What does the company do with concerned, we can make almost everything
pre-waste and post-consumer surplus, in BCI.
defective stock, unsold stock, samples,
etc? Do you think there is the need to develop
One way of managing the waste generated is an Indian definition of sustainability, given
recycling plastic bags. Since the items are our cultural uniqueness?
finally sold to the customer in a paper bag, There is a dire need to make an Indian
we use recyclable plastic to transport the sustainability charter to educate people about
garment from the warehouse to the store. In the basics of sustainability and understand its
terms of garments, the e-commerce platform significance in our cultural context.
as well as factory outlets are used to liquidate Sustainability has always been a part of our
excess inventory. Whatever is left is sold in brand ethos; putting it down formally in the
other countries. form of a charter took place about three
years ago internationally, and about a year
What short-term goals, according to you, ago in India. We struggle with both the lack
can be logistically achieved in the next six of knowledge around this issue and the
months, to further sustainable production willingness to acquire that knowledge.
in your company?
We have three short-term goals that we
expect to achieve in the coming year:43
FABINDIA
T he L i v elihood s M anda t e
Prableen Sabhaney, Head—Communications & Public Affairs
TVOF: How does Fabindia approach While there is no single definition of
sustainability in its business? ‘sustainability,’ Fabindia views it through the
Prableen Sabhaney: Sustainability is at the livelihood lens—creating sustainable jobs and
core of Fabindia. The brand has always been livelihoods—while working with an average of
aware of its responsibility as a business 60,000 artisans from across the country.
model, from its inception in 1960. In the Given the nature of craft-focused work, this
words of the founder, John Bissell, “In acts a multiplier.
addition to making profits, our aims are
constant development of new handwoven Conversations around ‘how we source, what
products; a fair, equitable, and helpful we source’ have always been part of the
relationship with our producers, and the Fabindia focus, as we have one of the most
maintenance of quality, on which our inclusive, diverse, complex and fractalised
reputation rests.” supply bases in the world.
Sustainability is an integral driver of Fabindia’s The company works across the spectrum
strategic business decision-making, with the with individuals in home-based scenarios,
creation of craft-based livelihood in the rural cooperatives, collectives, NGOs and
sector being a mandate. producer companies, and with master
craftsmen and designers who have come to
Fabindia’s business model and sourcing be closely associated with Fabindia. It deals
continues to be taught as a case at Harvard with varying quantities depending on
Business School, the IIMs and INSEAD, capacities and skills, to tightly monitored
amongst other business schools. British schedules, while retaining the quality and
Council has recognised the company as a integrity of design elements and the fashion
significant contributor to creative industries, quotient.
built around the central idea of sustainability.
Academician Shubha Patwardhan’s PhD How does Fabindia continue to develop
thesis that explores companies that created an enabling model for crafts communities
their own markets and in doing so changed as the company’s key suppliers?
the eco-system, includes Fabindia. Fabindia is aware and knowledgeable about
the environment in which it functions, having
Fabindia is India’s most iconic fashion brand built relationships with suppliers that
and continues to be one of the biggest retail constitutes a complex and varied supply
chains in the country, with reach in multiple tier base, over generations of interactions in
markets through more than 300 stores. Founded
in the 1960s by John Bissell, Fabindia created its
some instances. The company has created
own market and in an unprecedented manner, innovative models to accommodate change
made artisans and craftspeople its suppliers and and create avenues for crafts communities to
shareholders. enable engagement and generate livelihoods.You can also read
