Predictive Ingredient Selection for Total Consumer Alignment - Smart science to improve livesTM - MidWest SCC
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Predictive Ingredient Selection
for Total Consumer Alignment
Smart science to improve livesTM
Sensory at Croda
We combine our knowledge, passion and entrepreneurial spirit to create a positive difference to the
environment and to society. We have made it our purpose to use Smart Science to Improve Lives.
Identify ingredients to Investigate sensorial
fit required sensory impact of ingredients
profiles on formulation
Global teams
Determine dedicated to tactile
sensory attributes sensory provide Offer insights into
reliable data to consumer
support formulation perception
development and
innovation
Explore Develop descriptive
benchmarking sensory profiles
Smart science to improve livesTM
Sensory tells a story
What kind of product would you The sensory of a product
apply if you had dry skin? A rich moisturiser? can affect the perceived
efficacy by the consumer
What kind of product would you The texture can impart a
apply if you wanted to treat A thick body butter? sense of luxury for the
yourself? customer
What kind of product would you A light sensory may stimulate
apply if you wanted to refresh A light, cooling serum? feelings of freshness and skin
your skin? hydration
Smart science to improve livesTM
Sensory as a marketing tool
Brand: Laneige Brand: Anessa Brand: NARS
Product: Water Bank Gel Product: Perfect UV Product: Velvet Lip Glide
Cream Skincare Milk
Sensorial emphasis:
Sensorial emphasis: Sensorial emphasis: “leaving lips luxuriously
“skin was immediately soothed “give a pleasant non-sticky smooth”
and felt comfortable” feel” “without feeling sticky”
“skin feels cool” “fits smoothly and “feels smooth and
comfortably to the skin” moisturising”
Smart science to improve livesTM
Sources: www.laneige.com/ca/en/product/water-bank-gel-cream; http://anessa.shiseido.co.jp/en/products/suncare/perfect_uv_sm; www.narscosmetics.com/USA/velvet-lip-glide/999NAC0000040
Global format and texture preference
Formats & Textures Launched in Skincare Globally over Last Three Complete Years
(2017-2020)
100%
90%
Water
Percent of Launches within Region
80%
Scrub
70%
Sheet Mask
60%
Spray / Mist / Spritz
50% Serum
40% Oil
30% Balm
20% Gel / Jelly
10% Lotion
Cream
0%
Middle East & Africa Latin America North America Europe Asia Pacific
Region
Smart science to improve livesTM Source: Mintel GNPD
Synergy within sensory
The science of sensory influences many stages of the lifecycle of a formulation
New ingredient Incorporating Marketing Purchase and
development ingredients into of use of
formulation formulation formulation
Are we all
speaking the
same
language?
R&D Formulators Marketing and Consumers
(downstream Sales
(upstream research) applications)
Smart science to improve livesTM
Consumer requirements
I’d like a
fresh
formula...
I’d like
something
that feels
pleasant…
What does that mean?
How do I formulate to that brief?
How do I formulate for that
consumer?
Smart science to improve livesTM
How do we do this?
12 simple formulations: o/w emulsifiers
&
2 unique consumer sets
2 language types
Singapore France
Smart science to improve livesTM
Croda Sensorial Syntax
The language used by our technical experts
Trained and regularly calibrated panelists form our “human instrument” that produce objective
measurements. The performance of panelists was validated over several calibration exercises. These
calibration exercises reveal a strong consensual agreement
Absorbency Greasy Oily Spreadability Thick Waxy Wetness
Pre-defined technical attributes (syntax) were evaluated, with reference to a pre-learnt absolute intensity
scale (e.g. 0-100). They allocated intensity scores to each attribute (syntax), for each simple formulation
Smart science to improve livesTM
Croda Sensorial Semantics
The language used by consumers
An external sensory panel located in Singapore, An external sensory panel located in France (Paris
consisting of approx. 100 consumers. The consumers and Aix-en-Provence), consisting of approx. 100
in this study were of mixed ethnicities, including consumers. The consumers in this study were
Chinese, Malay and Indian predominantly Caucasian
Consumer language is not pre-defined, so the sensorial semantic attributes must first be determined. The average
intensity scores for each of these attributes (semantics), for each simple formulation, could then be collated
Smart science to improve livesTMHow do we do this?
Match: How do syntax and semantics relate?
Match
Sense
Matrix
Sense: What does this mean?
Matrix: How does it all come together?
Smart science to improve livesTM@Play Language Wheel Match
absorbent soft melting
Syntax
Technical Semantics
language Consumer
language rich
creamy cooling fresh
hydrating
fresh pleasant
sticky light nourishing
rich light
quick-to-absorb sticky thick
thick heavy creamy cooling
smooth thin smooth
greasy greasy easy-to-apply silky
glossy
liquid
slippery
fluid
watery Semantics
Consumer
oily
language
Syntax
Technical
language
Smart science to improve livesTMTop Preference drivers Sense
Emulsifier systems
Semantic (Singapore) 1st Emulsifier system 2nd Emulsifier system that are regarded
highly in both regions:
1. Slippery Polyglyceryl-4 Steareth-100 (and)
Laurate/Succinate (and) Aqua Steareth-2 (and) Mannan ▪ Glyceryl Stearate
/ Sorbitan Laurate (and) Xanthan Gum (and)
Polyglyceryl-6
Palmitate/Succin
ate (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol
▪ Steareth-100
(and) Steareth-2
Semantic (France) 1st Emulsifier system 2nd Emulsifier system (and) Mannan
1. Pleasant (agréable) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG- Glyceryl Stearate (and) (and) Xanthan
Gum
100 Stearate Polyglyceryl-6
▪ Glyceryl Stearate
Palmitate/Succinate (and) (and) PEG-100
Cetearyl Alcohol Stearate
Smart science to improve livesTMHigh:
Polyglyceryl-4
Slippery Laurate/Succinate (and)
Aqua / Sorbitan Laurate
Matrix
10 Low:
More Steareth-2 / Steareth-21
9
8
7
Polyglyceryl-4
Perceived Slippery
Laurate/Succinate (and) Aqua /
Sorbitan Laurate 6
Sodium Polyacrylate
Glyceryl (and) Isotridecyl
5
Steareth-100 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol Stearate Isononanoate (and)
Steareth-2 (and) (and) Ceteth-20 (and) PEG- Trideceth-6
Polysorbate 60 /
Mannan (and) Xanthan 4 Phosphate (and) 100 Stearate
Sorbitan Stearate
Gum Dicetyl
Behentrimonium Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and)
3 Phosphate
Methosulfate (and) Sorbityl Laurate Ethylhexyl Cocoate (and)
Cetyl Alcohol (and) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
2 Butylene Glycol (and) Polysorbate 20
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol (and)
Steareth-2 / (and) Polyglyceryl-6
Dicetyl Phosphate (and)
1 Steareth-21 Palmitate/Succinate
Ceteth-10 Phosphate
Less (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol
0
FLUID VISCOUS
Smart science to improve livesTMHigh:
Pleasant – ‘Agréable’
Polyglyceryl-4
Laurate/Succinate (and)
Aqua / Sorbitan Laurate Matrix
Low:
10 Steareth-2 / Steareth-21
More
9
8
Glyceryl
7 Stearate Glyceryl Stearate
Perceived Pleasant
(and) PEG- (and) Polyglyceryl-6
6 100 Stearate Palmitate/Succinate
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cetearyl
Steareth-100 (and) (and) Isotridecyl Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Alcohol
Steareth-2 (and) 5
Isononanoate (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and)
Mannan (and) Xanthan Trideceth-6 Ceteth-10 Phosphate
Gum 4
Sorbitan Stearate (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol Sorbityl Laurate Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate 3
(and) Ceteth-20 (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and)
(and) Aqua / Sorbitan Laurate Butylene Glycol
Phosphate (and)
2 Dicetyl
Polysorbate 60 /
Phosphate Steareth-2 /
Sorbitan Stearate Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Ethylhexyl
Steareth-21
1 Cocoate (and) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether
Less Myristate (and) Polysorbate 20
0
FLUID VISCOUS
Smart science to improve livesTMIntroducing The SenStories Selector…
www.crodapersonalcare.com/SenStories
Smart science to improve livesTMCase Study Smart science to improve livesTM
SenStories™ Selector Smart science to improve livesTM
Case Study
Brand: Anessa
Product: Perfect UV Skincare Milk
Sensorial emphasis:
“give a pleasant non-sticky feel”
“fits smoothly and comfortably to the skin”
Smart science to improve livesTMCase Study Smart science to improve livesTM
Case Study Smart science to improve livesTM
Case Study Smart science to improve livesTM
Case Study Smart science to improve livesTM
Case Study Smart science to improve livesTM
Case Study Smart science to improve livesTM
Case Study Smart science to improve livesTM
Thank you!
Mara Crespo Webb
Key Account Manager
Mara.Webb@Croda.com
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness
or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these
products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products
including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other
Smart science to improve livesTM intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified herein, unless otherwise noted,
are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
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